Do-it-yourself manual transmission repair duster

We remove the gearbox for repair, replacement of parts and assemblies of the clutch mechanism, as well as when dismantling the engine.
We carry out the work on a viewing ditch or overpass.
Gearbox removal operations are shown on a 2.0L engine.
The operations for removing the gearbox on a 1.6 liter engine are the same.
We drain the oil from the gearbox (see Checking the level and adding oil to the manual gearbox).
Remove the front wheel drives (see Removing the front wheel drives).
We disconnect the cables of the gearbox control mechanism from the gearbox levers and remove the installation bushings of the cable sheaths from the support bracket (see Removing the gearbox control mechanism).
Remove the starter (see Removing and checking the engine starter 2.0).
Remove the subframe assembly with the antiroll bar (see Removing the subframe).

Using the Torx T-20 wrench, unscrew the plastic retainer of the piston for securing the protective casing ...

Using the "13" head, unscrew the bolt securing the plastic holder for wiring harnesses to the clutch housing ...

Using a flat screwdriver, pry the clamp of the holder for the wiring harness, remove it from the hole in the thermostat housing.

We remove the holder of wiring harnesses with harnesses from the gearbox.

Remove the tip of the clutch hydraulic tube from the adapter (see Replacing the hose and clutch tube).
Disconnect the block of wires from the reverse light switch (see Removing the reverse light switch of the manual transmission).

Using the "13" head, unscrew the bolt securing the tip of the "mass" wire to the clutch housing ...

We take out the crankshaft position sensor from the hole in the gearbox housing (see Removing the crankshaft position sensor).

Using the "13" head, unscrew the two bolts securing the exhaust manifold flange to the gearbox bracket.

Using the "10" head, we unscrew the two bolts securing the bracket to the gearbox ...

We remove the plastic tip of the breather hose from the holder ...

... and remove the breather hose from the plastic sleeve.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the bolt securing the power steering tube holder to the gearbox housing.

Use the same tool to unscrew the bolt securing the other tube holder (the arrow shows the threaded part of the bolt).
Using the "13" head with an extension cord, unscrew the bolt securing the eye-bracket ...

We substitute the adjustable stops under the engine sump and under the gearbox housing, having previously placed the pieces of boards.

Using the "13" head with an extension cord, we unscrew the rear upper bolt securing the gearbox to the engine block ...

... and remove the bolt from the hole.

With the same tool, unscrew the front upper bolt securing the gearbox to the engine block.

With the same tool, unscrew the bolt securing the gearbox to the sump from the front of the engine.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the bolt securing the gearbox to the sump from the rear of the engine.

From the rear side of the engine with a high head "13", we unscrew the nut of the stud securing the gearbox to the engine block.

From the front side of the engine with the head "13" we unscrew the nut of the stud securing the gearbox to the engine block.

We unscrew the nut of the stud securing the left support of the power unit to the gearbox bracket (see Replacing the support of the power unit).
We lower the power unit on an adjustable stop so that the gearbox bracket pin comes out of the hole in the support cushion.

Using the "16" head with an extension cord, unscrew the three bolts securing the bracket to the gearbox.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the two bolts of the lower fastening of the gearbox to the engine oil pan.

We remove the gearbox from the engine, removing the input shaft from the hub of the clutch disc, and remove the gearbox.
When installing the gearbox on the engine, it is necessary to direct the input shaft so that the splines of the shaft mesh with the splines of the clutch disc.
We turn the gearbox like this ...

... that the clutch housing stud ...

... and the engine block stud ... ... fit into the corresponding holes in the crankcase and block.
After that, we send the gearbox along the landing bushings to the stop in the engine block.
After making sure that the gearbox is installed correctly, tighten the bolts and nuts that secure the gearbox to the prescribed torque (see Appendices).
When installing the exhaust manifold mounting bracket, first we attach two bolts of the bracket to the gearbox housing and two bolts to the exhaust manifold.
After the bolts have been loosened, it is necessary to check that the bracket is in a loose state.
After that, you can gradually, step by step, alternately tighten the mounting bolts, while checking that there is no distortion of the bracket.
We carry out further assembly operations in reverse order.
Fill the gearbox with oil.

Renault recently delighted car enthusiasts with the release of the next generation of the budget car Duster. The presence of some experience in determining the advantages and disadvantages of the machine made it possible to identify all problematic issues and possible breakdowns that may arise during operation, as well as to determine the way to eliminate them. This is what the article is about. We will tell you how to do it yourself auto repair.

Refueling with low-quality fuel often leads to problems in the power unit at Renault Duster, which are usually resolved by cleaning or replacing the fuel filter, as well as changing gasoline or diesel fuel. Therefore, you should not worry too much about this.

Illumination of the Check Engine indicator, first of all, indicates the use of low quality fuel. If, after replacing the fuel, the light continues to burn, then it is necessary to deal with the fuel system filter. At the same time, it does not matter what type of internal combustion engine is installed on the crossover - 2-liter gasoline or diesel.

This problem is primarily undesirable for diesel engines, since an increase in the density of diesel fuel leads to failure of the high-pressure fuel pump, the price of which is significant. At the same time, the video clip speaks of the difficulty of replacing the high pressure fuel pump.

If the light remains on after changing the fuel and filter, then the error in the on-board system should be cleared using a connected laptop to the corresponding input for diagnostics. You can fix this problem yourself. To do this, you need to purchase a special adapter in a car shop, and carry out repairs.

There are times when it is necessary to make repairs in the Renault Duster salon. Moisture builds up under the driver's mat after rain or winter, or with regular use of the climate control without regular maintenance. Moreover, this problem is equally inherent in both gasoline internal combustion engines and diesel ones.

This unpleasant moment practically does not arise for Renault Duster, release after 2013. The problem cannot be eliminated on its own: it is necessary to dismantle and disassemble the split system and seal the branch pipe.

The price of this service is low for Renault Duster. Car service specialists will make repairs in a matter of hours.

The presence of an on-board computer and electronics in Renault Duster gives rise to the problem of possible failures that occur in the electrics when all-wheel drive is turned on. Maybe the manual mode of the rear axle is turned off on its own. This happens when driving in first and second gears, regardless of the type of power unit.

The inadequacy of this behavior is determined by failures in the electronic control unit, which can be easily eliminated without a detailed inspection of the mechanical components. You can repair this breakdown with your own hands. You need to flash it yourself using the programmer, and the problem will disappear. The kit includes a video instruction on how to use this equipment.

If a similar problem continues to appear, you should study the operation of an electric oil pump, the controllers of which also give an error, which does not allow the rear wheels to be turned on in some modes of the power plant robots. With regular maintenance and oil change in the clutch gearbox and not using the machine in harsh conditions, the sensor will function normally. Service videos can be taken from the Internet without any problems.

One of the disadvantages of Renault Duster is that there are no sensors installed on the car that monitor the gearbox malfunction and "hand-outs". Malfunctions in these car systems can only be detected by looking under the car. Particular attention should be paid to the tightness of the transfer case.

If oily stains appear through the oil seals, then you should think about replacing them. Operating experience indicates that most often the problem occurs on cars with a 2-liter gasoline engine. For an all-wheel drive diesel engine, this malfunction is less typical.

This is due to the improper operation of Renault Duster. If the first signs of a problem are detected, new oil seals should be installed and new gear oil filled. As such, no major repairs are required. Everything can be changed with your own hands.

The most common fault in the Renault Duster suspension is. This is affected by the peculiarities of domestic roads, significant temperature drops and various humidity, which are not the best way to affect the operation of the suspension.

Suspension components that fail in the first place: shock absorber struts, torsion bars, silent blocks of levers on the front and rear axles, as well as bearings of swivel rods and hubs. Having studied the video material on this topic, you can do it yourself to replace these parts using the necessary tool.

Suspension repair should never be postponed, as belated replacement of parts will lead to the failure of other parts, which will increase the cost of repair work.

When summing up the reliability of the Renault Duster crossover, you should pay attention to such a moment. Regular maintenance and timely replacement of suspension elements and other mechanical parts, as well as correct operation, will allow the car to serve for a significant period of time. Then frequent expensive repairs will not be required.

Briefly what this article is about: Renault Duster. Removing the manual transmission

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Renault Duster. Removing the manual transmission

We remove the gearbox for repair, replacement of parts and assemblies of the clutch mechanism, as well as when dismantling the engine.

We carry out the work on a viewing ditch or overpass.
Gearbox removal operations are shown on a 2.0L engine.
The operations for removing the gearbox on a 1.6 liter engine are the same.
We drain the oil from the gearbox (see.Checking the level and adding oil to the manual transmission).
Remove the front wheel drives (see Removing the front wheel drives).
We disconnect the cables of the gearbox control mechanism from the gearbox levers and remove the installation bushings of the cable sheaths from the support bracket (see Removing the gearbox control mechanism).
Remove the starter (see Removing and checking the engine starter 2.0).
Remove the subframe assembly with the antiroll bar (see Removing the subframe).

Remove the transfer case (see Removing the transfer case).

Using the Torx T-20 wrench, unscrew the plastic retainer of the piston for securing the protective casing ...

Using the "13" head, unscrew the bolt securing the plastic holder for wiring harnesses to the clutch housing ...

Using a flat screwdriver, pry the clamp of the holder for the wiring harness, remove it from the hole in the thermostat housing.

We remove the holder of wiring harnesses with harnesses from the gearbox.

Remove the tip of the clutch hydraulic tube from the adapter (see Replacing the hose and clutch tube).
Disconnect the block of wires from the reverse light switch (see Removing the reverse light switch of the manual transmission).

Using the "13" head, unscrew the bolt securing the tip of the "mass" wire to the clutch housing ...

We take out the crankshaft position sensor from the hole in the gearbox housing (see Removing the crankshaft position sensor).

Using the "13" head, unscrew the two bolts securing the exhaust manifold flange to the gearbox bracket.

Using the "10" head, we unscrew the two bolts securing the bracket to the gearbox ...

We remove the plastic tip of the breather hose from the holder ...

... and remove the breather hose from the plastic sleeve.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the bolt securing the power steering tube holder to the gearbox housing.

Use the same tool to unscrew the bolt securing the other tube holder (the arrow shows the threaded part of the bolt).
Using the "13" head with an extension cord, unscrew the bolt securing the eye-bracket ...

We substitute the adjustable stops under the engine sump and under the gearbox housing, having previously placed the pieces of boards.

Using the "13" head with an extension cord, we unscrew the rear upper bolt securing the gearbox to the engine block ...

... and remove the bolt from the hole.

With the same tool, unscrew the front upper bolt securing the gearbox to the engine block.

With the same tool, unscrew the bolt securing the gearbox to the sump from the front of the engine.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the bolt securing the gearbox to the sump from the rear of the engine.

From the rear side of the engine with a high head "13", we unscrew the nut of the stud securing the gearbox to the engine block.

From the front side of the engine with the head "13" we unscrew the nut of the stud securing the gearbox to the engine block.

We unscrew the nut of the stud securing the left support of the power unit to the gearbox bracket (see Replacing the support of the power unit).
We lower the power unit on an adjustable stop so that the gearbox bracket pin comes out of the hole in the support cushion.

Using the "16" head with an extension cord, unscrew the three bolts securing the bracket to the gearbox.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the two bolts of the lower fastening of the gearbox to the engine oil pan.

We remove the gearbox from the engine, removing the input shaft from the hub of the clutch disc, and remove the gearbox.
When installing the gearbox on the engine, it is necessary to direct the input shaft so that the splines of the shaft mesh with the splines of the clutch disc.
We turn the gearbox like this ...

... that the clutch housing stud ...

... and the engine block stud ... ... fit into the corresponding holes in the crankcase and block.
After that, we send the gearbox along the landing bushings to the stop in the engine block.
After making sure that the gearbox is installed correctly, tighten the bolts and nuts that secure the gearbox to the prescribed torque (see Appendices).
When installing the exhaust manifold mounting bracket, first we attach two bolts of the bracket to the gearbox housing and two bolts to the exhaust manifold.
After the bolts have been loosened, it is necessary to check that the bracket is in a loose state.
After that, you can gradually, step by step, alternately tighten the mounting bolts, while checking that there is no distortion of the bracket.
We carry out further assembly operations in reverse order.
Fill the gearbox with oil.

We remove the gearbox to replace the clutch, flywheel, rear crankshaft oil seal. In addition, we remove the box in the event of the following malfunctions:

- Difficult gear shifting;

- spontaneous switching off or fuzzy switching on of gears;

- oil leakage through seals and gaskets.

Before removing the gearbox, you need to make sure that the malfunction is caused by other reasons (insufficient oil level, defects in the clutch release drive, loosening of the gearbox fastening, etc.).

To dismantle the gearbox, you will need tools: socket heads for 10, 13, 16, a flat-blade screwdriver.

We install the car on a viewing ditch or lift.

We drain the oil from the gearbox.

Remove the front wheel drives.

We disconnect the cables of the gearbox control mechanism from the gearbox levers and remove the installation bushings of the cable sheaths from the support bracket (article - removing the mechanism).

Using the Torx T-20 wrench, unscrew the plastic retainer of the piston securing the protective casing

With a 13 head, unscrew the bolt securing the plastic holder for the wiring harness to the clutch housing

Use a slotted screwdriver to pry on the clamp of the wiring harness holder and remove it from the hole in the thermostat housing

Removing the wire holder from the gearbox

Remove the tip of the clutch hydraulic tube from the adapter

Disconnect the wiring block from the reversing light switch

With a 13 head, unscrew the bolt securing the tip of the ground wire to the clutch housing

We take out the crankshaft position sensor from the hole in the gearbox housing

With a 13 head, unscrew the two bolts securing the exhaust manifold flange to the gearbox bracket

We remove the gearbox to replace the clutch, flywheel, rear crankshaft oil seal. In addition, we remove the box in the event of the following malfunctions:

- Difficult gear shifting;

- spontaneous switching off or fuzzy switching on of gears;

- oil leakage through seals and gaskets.

Before removing the gearbox, you need to make sure that the malfunction is caused by other reasons (insufficient oil level, defects in the clutch release drive, loosening of the gearbox fastening, etc.).

To dismantle the gearbox, you will need tools: socket heads for 10, 13, 16, a flat-blade screwdriver.

We install the car on a viewing ditch or lift.

We drain the oil from the gearbox.

Remove the front wheel drives.

We disconnect the cables of the gearbox control mechanism from the gearbox levers and remove the installation bushings of the cable sheaths from the support bracket (article - removing the mechanism).

Using the Torx T-20 wrench, unscrew the plastic retainer of the piston securing the protective casing

With a 13 head, unscrew the bolt securing the plastic holder for the wiring harness to the clutch housing

Use a slotted screwdriver to pry on the clamp of the wiring harness holder and remove it from the hole in the thermostat housing

Removing the wire holder from the gearbox

Remove the tip of the clutch hydraulic tube from the adapter

Disconnect the wiring block from the reversing light switch

With a 13 head, unscrew the bolt securing the tip of the ground wire to the clutch housing

We take out the crankshaft position sensor from the hole in the gearbox housing

With a 13 head, unscrew the two bolts securing the exhaust manifold flange to the gearbox bracket

Renault Duster car is available with two types of transmission. So the car can only be driven by 2 or all 4 wheels.
If the machine has a 4-wheel drive, then, relative to the model with two-wheel drive, additional transmission units are installed on it, which ensure the transmission of torque to the rear wheels.
In this category of our site, we will consider the main transmission units of a Renault Duster car. So, in particular, the clutch of the car, gearbox, wheel drives will be considered, the issue of the general layout of the Renault Duster transmission will also be discussed.

1 - engine; 2 - clutch; 3 - gearbox; 4 - transfer case; 5 - front left wheel drive; 6 - front propeller shaft; 7 - rear propeller shaft; 8 - electromagnetic clutch; 9 - rear gearbox; 10 - rear left wheel drive.

1 - engine; 2 - clutch; 3 - gearbox; 4 - drive of the right front wheel; 5 - transfer case; 6 - interwheel differential of the front axle; 7 - cardan transmission; 8 - electromagnetic clutch; 9 - drive of the right rear wheel; 10 - rear axle cross-axle differential; 11 - rear gearbox; 12 - drive of the left rear wheel; 13 - drive of the left front wheel.

The engine transmits torque through the clutch to the gearbox. In accordance with the selected gear, the torque is transmitted through the gear wheels to the gearbox. Further, the torque is distributed through the differential to the front wheels. The front wheels of Renault Duster are not disabled, that is, they are leading in any case. Also, depending on the selected mode, which is switched from inside the car, the automatic mode "AUTO" can be selected. In this case, when the front wheels slip, the electromechanical clutch will automatically turn on, thereby additionally transmitting torque to the rear wheels. In the LOCK mode, a forced constant transmission of torque to two axle shafts is activated.

It is advisable to use all-wheel drive mode only for off-road, difficult road sections. The use of blocking on the asphalt, especially at high speeds, is undesirable, as it leads not only to increased gas mileage, but also to rapid wear of the transmission. That is why, at speeds over 80 km / h, the full blocking mode automatically switches to the "AUTO" mode.

Renault Duster cars are equipped with 5 and 6-speed gearboxes, depending on the power plant. So for a 1.6 liter engine, 5 gearbox sts are used, for a 2.0 l engine, 6 gearbox sts. The gearbox is structurally made with two shafts, on which gear wheels with oblique teeth for forward speeds and with straight teeth for reverse speed are installed. The gearbox housing is made of two components: the gearbox housing and the gearbox clutch housing. The body parts are cast from an aluminum alloy and are interconnected with fasteners.

Renault Duster clutch is a single-plate dry clutch. This type of clutch is used for most of the cars in use today.
In fact, between two discs, one of which is the engine flywheel and the second disc of the clutch basket, the clutch disc is constantly clamped. It is through the flywheel that the torque from the engine is transmitted, and then, if the disk is clamped, then it is transmitted to the shaft with gearbox splines, and as a result, through the gearbox to the wheels of the car.If, however, the disc of the clutch basket is squeezed out, then the torque will cease to be transmitted to the clutch disc. This clutch feature is used to shift, engage gears at the checkpoint.

If the clutch is not fully disengaged, when the pedal is pressed, as well as after repair work related to the hydraulic clutch system, it is necessary to bleed the Renault Duster clutch hydraulic drive. In this article, we will walk you through this procedure.

The basket and the clutch disc are removed in case of their replacement, in the case of replacing the flywheel on the engine or the oil seal on the engine shaft.
The job is best done on a viewing ditch or on a hoist. Also, before removing the basket and clutch disc, the gearbox is removed from the car. More details about the procedures for removing the gearbox from the car will be described in our other article "Renault Duster gearbox (removal and installation)". Here we will only talk about the features of fastening and installing the basket and clutch disc.

The clutch master cylinder is installed by Renault Duster on the shield between the passenger compartment and the engine compartment. The master cylinder is removed in the event of its replacement, or for bodywork. The master cylinder is installed in the panel without fastening by means of bolts and nuts. In this article, we will walk you through the procedure for removing the clutch master cylinder from a vehicle.

The gear shift cables are removed if they are excessively stretched or broken, when the adjustment cannot provide a clear engagement and selection of gears for the gearbox. It is better to replace the checkpoint cables at the overpass, and also involve an assistant for these operations.

Renault Duster front wheel drives are a "classic" layout and design that is used on most front wheel drive vehicles. So the drives are CV joints, between which the shafts are installed. Left and right side actuators are not interchangeable.

Front wheel drives are removed if replaced. Also, the drives can be removed to replace the oil seals in the gearbox. The most probable signs of a malfunction of the wheel drives are manifested in the wear of the turning mechanisms, which, in the extreme positions of the steering wheel, when the machine is moving, begin to emit noises and knocks.
In this article, we will only consider the operation of replacing drives for Renault Duster with a 4-wheel drive. Removing front wheel drives for front wheel drive (4 * 2) vehicles will be covered in another article.
More information about Renault Duster wheel drives can be found in the article "Renault Duster Front Wheel Drives".

The transfer case is installed on vehicles with 4 * 4 drive. In fact, it distributes the torque to the rear axle. Enables, disables the transmission of torque to the rear axle. Also provides the transmission of torque to the right wheel drive.

The Renault Duster cardan drive is used to transmit torque from the transfer case to the gearbox on the rear axle, while torque is transmitted under conditions of angular displacement of the cardan drive, as well as when its total face-to-face length changes. This property of the cardan drive eliminates the rigid attachment of the transfer case to the gearbox, which is necessary taking into account the properties of the rear suspension of the car.

+ 100,000,000,000, certainly no envy, a feeling of pity that a self-made designer will be made of the car, yes, there is such a thing. 60 sput for the climate, well, fuck what I'm confused about and would like the climate, but everything has its own expediency.

Find your own and calm down

Sad music is better than booze

It is immediately clear that you do not use your brains, but you can easily flutter your tongue in vain. In the traffic police, all alterations are reissued and entered into the TCP. Only the lazy have not read about this on the Internet, there are instructions on a bunch of sites. <>

I am still worried about the installation of EDC from a diesel Megan and a Kaptur with a similar engine. Any information on this?

Maybe someone is mocking Duster, but only on this site they have not seen such, the car is a budget and many people buy it for the latter, later blowing off the specks of dust, they will definitely not work on the collective farms so much, they will put a maximum stink or the wipers will change. About replacing the rear brakes. the last car with rear drums was the Elantra J-3 in the GL configuration, I had enough of it with the brakes. I did not dare to buy Duster for a very long time, including because of the brakes, well, I didn’t want drums given my experience, but now, after 9 months of ownership and quite active driving, I can say that the drums on Duster do not bother at all, the brakes are good enough and not it's worth changing them (I understand what I'm talking about).

All-wheel drive cars Renault Duster 4x4 are equipped with five or six-speed manual transmissions.

Renault Duster gearbox is mechanical, two-shaft, with six forward gears and one reverse gear, with synchronizers in all forward gears. It is structurally integrated with the differential and main gear.

The base of the gearbox consists of 2 links (cast from an aluminum alloy): the clutch housing and the gearbox housing. When installed, a gas-oil-resistant sealant-gasket is applied between them.

The drive gears of all forward gears are located on the input shaft of the Renault Duster gearbox and are in continuous engagement with the driven gears mounted on the output shaft. The gears of all forward gears are helical, and the reverse gears are spur.

The main drive pinion is also installed on the output shaft. The final drive pinion is in continuous engagement with the final drive pinion.

The final drive gear is located on the Renault Duster differential box and is bolted to it. The differential box contains two satellites and two side gears. The satellites are located on an axle fixed in the differential box. The half-axle gears redistribute the force to the front wheel drives.

The differential box rotates on 2 roller tapered bearings, the inner rings of which are pressed onto the differential box, and the outer rings are pressed into the gearbox and clutch housings. The differential case by means of a splined connection redirects the rotation to the drive shaft of the transfer case.

Fig. 7. Six-speed gearbox 4 × 4 manual transmission Renault Duster

1 - reversing light switch; 2 - breather; 3 - manual transmission housing; 4 - gear selection lever; 5 - gear connection lever; 6 - clutch housing; 7 - oil filler plug; 8 - left wheel drive oil seal; 9 - primary shaft; 10 - oil seal of the main shaft of the transfer case

Fig. 8. Renault Duster gearbox control mechanism

1- gear selection cable; 2 - gear connection cable; 3 - control mechanism; 4 - boot of the gear lever; 5 - gear shift lever

The Renault Duster gearbox control drive consists of a control mechanism located in the cabin on the floor tunnel, and a gearshift mechanism located in the gearbox housing. The mechanisms are connected by two cables: selection and connection of gears.

The gearbox control mechanism is attached to the floor tunnel with four bolts. When selecting one or the other gear, the gear selection cable moves the gear selection lever, which, in turn, sets the gear toggle switch in the groove of a similar gear connection fork.

Fig. 9. Placement of the Renault Duster gearbox control mechanism on the floor tunnel

1 - gearbox control mechanism; 2 - bolts of fastening of the control mechanism; 3 - base stoppers

Once the gear has been selected, the docking cable turns the lever to engage the desired gear. The connection cable and the gear selection cable of the Renault Duster gearbox are not interchangeable.The gear selector cable can be adjusted in length. To change the length of the cable, press the spring 2 with the locking sleeve 3.

After that, we move the toothed stop 4 (orange) inside the cable end, removing its teeth from engagement with the toothed end of the cable 6. Move the toothed end of the cable 6 inside the tip, setting the required cable length, then fix the end of the cable with the toothed lock 4 and release the locking sleeve ...

The Renault Duster gearbox is vented to the atmosphere through a breather located in its upper part. During maintenance, the tip on the hose must be rotated several times to clean it.

The gearbox is filled at the factory with gear oil rated for each service period. The gearbox oil level should be on the lower lip. The breather is a plastic sleeve pressed into the crankcase. A pipeline is put on the sleeve.

Fig. 10. Connection cable and gear selection cable of the Renault Duster gearbox

1 - head of the tip of the gear selection cable; 2 - spring; 3- locking sleeve of the retainer; 4 - toothed stopper; 5 - tip of the gear selection cable; 6 - toothed end of the cable; 7 - the head of the cable connection for the gears; 8 - cable safety boot; 9 - tip of the cable sheath
connecting gears manual transmission Renault Duster; 10 - installation sleeve for the sheath of the gear connection cable; 11 - sheath of the gear connection cable; 12 - sheaths of the gear selection cable; 13 - installation sleeve of the sheath of the gear selection cable; 14 - tip of the sheath of the gear selection cable

At the upper end of the breather pipe, there is a plastic tip of the oil filler hole, closed with a plastic plug. The gearbox is a complex unit that needs to be repaired in specialized centers.

Renault Duster gearbox control mechanism replacement

The control mechanism, cables for selecting and connecting gears are removed for replacement in case of a cable break, mechanical flaws in the cable sheath or control mechanism. We carry out the work on a viewing ditch or overpass.

Replacement of the Renault Duster gearbox control mechanism:

- In the car, remove the floor tunnel lining.

- In the engine compartment, disconnect the installation sleeve of the gear connection cable sheath from the Renault Duster gearbox support bracket and remove the sleeve from the bracket groove.

- Then we disconnect the plastic head of the cable end from the lever and remove the end of the cable from the ball pin of the gear connection lever.

- Having applied the necessary force, we remove the installation sleeve of the gear selection cable sheath from the groove of the Renault Duster gearbox support bracket.

- From the bottom, unscrew the bolts securing the bracket for the intermediate support of the propeller shaft to the bottom of the body and separate the fork of the hinge of the front propeller shaft from the flange of the output shaft of the transfer case and shift the propeller shaft to the side.

- We unscrew the seven nuts of the studs securing the heat shield of the catalytic converter to the bottom of the body.

- Unscrew the four bolts securing the base of the Renault Duster manual transmission control mechanism to the floor tunnel.

- We squeeze two clips on each side of the base of the mechanism and pull it down through the hole in the bottom of the body along with the cables.

- Install the Renault Duster gearbox control mechanism in reverse order.

- The gearbox control mechanism has a fixed state of the shift lever in the position of III-IV gears.

- Before connecting the cables of the control mechanism with the gear levers, mount the gear shift lever of the control mechanism to the fixed state of III-IV gears. In the Renault Duster gearbox, we set the gear selector lever to III-IV gear.

- The gear selector cable has a length adjustment.

- For its correct installation, we displace the locking sleeve of the cable end from the toothed retainer, while compressing the spring. We move the toothed stopper.

- In this position of the retainer, the toothed end of the cable can move inside the tip, thereby changing the length of the cable.

- We put the plastic head of the cable end on the ball pin of the gearbox selector lever for the Renault Duster manual transmission and press the stopper, after which we lock the stopper with the bushing.

- We connect the gear connection cable, which has no length adjustment, with the gear connection lever on the box.

Removing the Renault Duster gearbox

We dismantle the Renault Duster gearbox for repair, replacement of parts and assemblies of the clutch mechanism, as well as when removing the engine. Transmission removal procedures are provided on a 2.0 L engine.

Operations to remove manual transmission Renault Duster:

- We remove the oil from the gearbox. Remove the front wheel drives.

- We separate the cables of the gearbox control mechanism from the gearbox levers of Renault Duster and remove the installation bushings of the cable sheaths from the support bracket.

- Dismantle the starter. Remove the subframe assembly with the anti-roll bar.

- Remove the transfer case.

- Unscrew the plastic stopper of the piston securing the protective casing and dismantle the casing.

- Unscrew the bolt securing the plastic fastening of the cable harnesses to the clutch housing.

- Using a slotted screwdriver, hook the piston for fastening the cable harnesses with a slotted screwdriver and remove it from the hole in the thermostat base.

- We displace the retainer of cable harnesses with harnesses from the Renault Duster gearbox.

- Remove the tip of the clutch hydraulic line from the adapter.

- Disconnect the cable block from the reverse light toggle switch.

- Unscrew the bolt securing the tip of the mass cable to the clutch housing and move it to the side.

- We take out the crankshaft condition sensor from the hole in the Renault Duster gearbox housing.

- Unscrew the two bolts securing the exhaust manifold flange to the gearbox bracket.

- We unscrew the two bolts securing the bracket to the gearbox and dismantle the bracket.

- Remove the plastic tip of the breather pipe from the mount and remove the breather pipe from the plastic sleeve.

- Unscrew the bolt securing the power steering line to the Renault Duster manual transmission housing.

- Using the same device, unscrew the bolt of the other fastening of the line.

- Unscrew the eye-bracket mounting bolt and dismantle it.

- We substitute the adjustable stops under the sump and under the gearbox housing.

- Unscrew the rear upper bolt securing the Renault Duster gearbox to the engine block and remove the bolt from the hole.

- Using the same tool, unscrew the front upper bolt securing the gearbox to the engine block.

- Unscrew the bolt securing the gearbox to the sump from the front of the engine.

- Unscrew the bolt securing the gearbox to the sump from the rear of the engine.

- From the rear side of the engine, unscrew the nut of the stud securing the Renault Duster gearbox to the engine block.

- From the front side of the engine, unscrew the nut of the stud securing the gearbox to the engine block.

- Unscrew the nut of the stud securing the left engine support to the gearbox bracket.

- Lower the engine on an adjustable stop so that the gearbox bracket pin comes out of the hole in the support cushion.

- Unscrew the three bolts securing the bracket to the gearbox.

- Disconnect the two lower mounting bolts of the Renault Duster manual transmission to the engine sump.

- We displace the gearbox from the engine, removing the input shaft from the hub of the clutch disc, and dismantle the gearbox.

- When installing the gearbox on the engine, it is necessary to direct the input shaft so that the splines of the shaft mesh with the splines of the clutch disc.

- We turn the Renault Duster gearbox so that the clutch housing stud and the engine block stud enter the corresponding holes in the crankcase and block.

- After that, we direct the gearbox along the landing bushings to the limit in the engine block. Making sure that the gearbox is positioned correctly, tighten the bolts and nuts that secure the gearbox to the prescribed torque.

- When installing the exhaust manifold mounting bracket, first we screw two bolts securing the bracket to the manual transmission housing and two bolts to the exhaust manifold. After the bolts are baited, you need to check that the bracket is in a free state.

- After that, you can alternately tighten the fastening bolts, checking at the same time that there is no bending of the bracket.

- The subsequent removal procedures are carried out in the reverse order. Fill the gearbox with oil.