For the Passat B6 model with automatic transmission 09G, the following repair features are characteristic:
For the Passat B6 and Sharan models with automatic transmission 5HP19 EYF, the following repair features are characteristic:
Repair and diagnostic procedures for automatic transmissions require special equipment and knowledge. However, Volkswagen transmissions are well studied and if you have the means and desire, you can try to repair them yourself. But, most likely, it will be cheaper to give this business to professionals. Repair of a Volkswagen Tuareg automatic transmission in Rostov, for example, will cost from 12,000 rubles in a normal service. Trained and experienced service employees will handle the repairs much faster and better.
VIDEO
Repair of the transmission (gearbox) Volkswagen Passat B6 can be major or partial. Repair of the box (manual transmission) Volkswagen Passat B6 should be done only after initial diagnostics in a car service. Very often, a third-party opinion that the box needs to be repaired turns out to be erroneous. It can also be caused by the clutch, flywheel, and gear selector.
We offer two options for repairing a transmission (manual transmission):
Partial (local) repair of the Volkswagen Passat B6 gearbox - we remove the box, disassemble it, wash and defect. Troubleshooting a box is determining the cause of its failure, indicating a specific malfunction. A list of spare parts for this malfunction is also provided. After agreement, we make repairs to eliminate the specific malfunction that the client has contacted. We do not touch the rest of the components and spare parts in the gearbox.
Overhaul of the Volkswagen Passat B6 checkpoint - as well as with partial repairs, the box is removed and completely disassembled, washed and defective. In this case, we are not looking for a specific cause of the breakdown, but we are doing a complete defect diagnosis. All units and spare parts with increased wear, all bearings, oil seals and gaskets are determined and changed.
2. Place a pan under the transmission and drain the transmission oil.
4. Remove the clutch release lever (4) with release bearing (3) and spacer (5).
9. Remove the three shift shaft cover bolts (B) and remove the cover.
Note. The smaller diameter of the MP 3-464 pressure plate is directed towards the nut.
14. Remove the bolts securing the gearbox cover of the bearing housing and remove the cover with the gasket.
16. Remove the 5th / 6th gear synchronizer blocking ring.
Note. Do not damage the synchroniser blocking ring. The pin should not be knocked out, because this will damage the bearing.
21. Push the rod with the 5th / 6th gear shift fork with the synchronizer clutch as far as possible from the bearing housing.
26. Knock out the centering sleeves and unscrew the bolts securing the bearing housing to the clutch housing.
29. Remove the 5th / 6th shift fork rod (B).
32. Using pliers, remove the circlip (arrow B) from the roller bearing.
36. Remove the spring, the synchronizer blocking ring and the reverse gear.
40. Remove the output / output shaft and the 1st / 2nd gear shift rod and fork from the bearing housing.
41. Insert into the bearing housing the output shaft and the rod with the 1st / 2nd shift fork (without the driver).
43. Press the gear onto the shaft using the MP 1-316 tool.
46. With the reverse gear (B) in place, slide the lever (A) into the groove in the gear.
50. Install the holder (A) so that the beveled edge of the pin hole in the synchroniser locking ring is toward the bearing housing.
55. Install the retaining ring (arrow B) with pliers.
57. Insert the rod of the 5th / 6th gear shift fork through the leash of the reverse gear shift lever (arrow B).
59. Lubricate the working surfaces of shafts and rods with transmission oil.
61. Apply AMV 188 001 02 sealant to the seating surfaces of the bearing housing and clutch housing.
Five-speed gearbox
68. Remove the retaining ring.
When switching from 1 to 2 gear, a crunch, as if not fully squeezed the clutch, and if you twist up to 5-6 thousand, even a pause when shifting does not help (mileage 10,000). Was in Hanse, the warranty foreman said most likely a 1-2 gear synchronizer, there is a firm cat. we will send repairs for repairs (like VW saves).
Pen users who had problems with it ?!
Damn, the couple do not want to pick my box in some kind of transit service.
When switching from 1 to 2 gear, a crunch, as if not fully squeezed the clutch, and if you twist up to 5-6 thousand, even a pause when shifting does not help (mileage 10,000). Was in Hanse, the warranty foreman said most likely a 1-2 gear synchronizer, there is a firm cat. we will send repairs for repairs (like VW saves).
Pen users who had problems with it ?!
Damn, the couple do not want to pick my box in some kind of transit service.
Dear Mr. H_001_OC!
Regardless of the malfunction (synchronizer of 2nd gear, fork of 1-2 gears or other inside the gearbox), you only need to deal with the service of an authorized dealer. It guarantees the operability of units and parts of the new car and the spare parts installed on it during the repair, as well as the quality of the repair performed using VW technologies. This applies to all authorized VW dealers.
When switching from 1 to 2 gear, a crunch, as if not fully squeezed the clutch, and if you twist up to 5-6 thousand, even a pause when shifting does not help (mileage 10,000). Was in Hanse, the warranty foreman said most likely a 1-2 gear synchronizer, there is a firm cat. we will send repairs for repairs (like VW saves).
Pen users who had problems with it ?!
Damn, the couple do not want to pick my box in some kind of transit service.
The ambush is not even about what will be done for a month, but about why it happened, and whether it will happen again after the repair.
Although maybe you yourself poked the transfer inaccurately.
When switching from 1 to 2 gear, a crunch, as if not fully squeezed the clutch, and if you twist up to 5-6 thousand, even a pause when shifting does not help (mileage 10,000). Was in Hanse, the warranty foreman said most likely a 1-2 gear synchronizer, there is a firm cat. we will send repairs for repairs (like VW saves).
Pen users who had problems with it ?!
Gn. The moron everything was right, I forgot the current right what I needed, I ought to sort it out
DEMAND REPLACEMENT! This is the main vector.: Nod:
If they do not want to disassemble them, i.e. repair,
Like for information - are you alone in insurance or someone else is driving? And not for the press -
p / s Mr. Valenok, and what kind of third-party enterprises are sent for repairs
Crap. and I thought that Folk's boxes are eternal.
Only from the third calendar week of the year 07 😯
Fixing not on the service is a divorce. nod:
Crap. and I thought that Folk's boxes are eternal.
Alas, nothing is eternal: kos:
Damn, and I also have such a side :(
I, too, only with intensive overclocking.
Damn, and I also have such a side :(
the problem is old. However, from the third calendar week of the year 07, it has been serially resolved. Taksho ask the new owners not to panic. And as for what was released before this week, all this mechanical junk can comprehend (but not the fact) this ailment. The reason is the second gear synchronizer. Now it comes with a molybdenum coating. In addition to it, three more parts need to be replaced. Only you do not think that I am making something up here. This is all in the corresponding TPL.
On a new car, dear Vaska, everything should work - this is
Searching the site gave no results, so I decided to open a new topic.
The feature is this: there was a grinding of gears in the manual transmission when switching from 1st gear to 2nd.You know, like at Sovdep's lawns, when you try to stick in the 2nd gear without re-gasing. Cool, b..I. This started about a month ago. At first, from time to time, I thought that I did not fully squeeze the clutch. Further more. Now, no matter how I put pressure on the clutch when driving dynamically with fast gear shifting, it’s impossible to squeal without grinding. The only option to switch without violence against the mechanical instinct is to hold the gearshift in neutral for a fraction of a second. Without going into the intricacies of the gearbox device on the B6, I sin on the release bearing. But something too early for 30,000 km. I went through TO-2 at a “North-West Moscow dealer”, the master poked, poked and said that it was like “Yes, something is strange,” but he suggested that I drive with a slow gear change. This "alignment" does not suit me.
There was a sad experience of such a ride on the product of the domestic car industry VAZ 2112: the clutch release took off at the railway crossing. The car stopped. Fortunately, there was no train, but fellow drivers helped push the car out of the hillock, otherwise they would have had to send messengers with flags along the tracks.
Everything must be approached wisely, and it's still strange, on B5 and B5.5 the boxes did not tolerate anything, and there were no such general refusals.
Yes, this question is annoying.: Nod:
Something straight with the mechanics of the epidemic began. (
yes, and with machine guns some kind of trouble with blows: kos:: weirdo:
Was in GANZA left the car for diagnostics, after which they said that it was necessary to leave at least 2 months. First, they will remove, disassemble, defect, send a request, order spare parts, spare parts will arrive in 3-4 weeks, and finally they will assemble and put in place. I began to insist on a replacement cart, the foreman thought, consulted (with whom I don’t know) called back and said that it was possible to pick up the car. They will order spare parts according to TPL, as soon as the spare parts arrive, they will call and repair (though 2-3 weeks). I’m skating for now, waiting for the bell. : mat:
Fffuh. Finally got the forum working: thumbup:
In general, the spare parts came to me somewhere in 3 weeks after the inspection of the car, they called, signed up for repairs. The day before yesterday we changed this damn synchronizer under warranty, everything is ok, I liked it, pah-pah-pah!
By the way, my friend Octavia A5 2 FSI 6 manual transmission, so the problem is identical! I think VAG sold out on this part, and now massive repairs and losses, and the reputation is down :(
I am afraid that it will not happen again, otherwise the guarantee is not eternal, most likely an expensive part + work! Someone said that since 2007 they have been serially installing synchronizers made of better quality material, maybe they changed it to me too, I will hope! Or someone can tell me ..
Something straight with the mechanics of the epidemic began. (
Yes, there are so many cases, already the system :(
Spare parts have finally arrived, on Friday I will sign up for repairs.
What a nightmare: confused: the car has been in service for the 3rd week, it turned out that you need to order some more gears. those. two weeks more 😯
... also became thoughtful.
Hello everyone: wave:. In general, I had such a problem comrade. When you turn on the second and rear speeds on the manual transmission, there is some kind of crunch, piercing to the very bones. Earlier I heard such a sound on other cheap cars, they said “it breaks the box”: confused: but to hear such a sound on Passa: eek:
IMHO, the problem has been known for a long time and methods of its treatment have been found for a long time. There is even TPL 2014540/7 which describes in detail what to do.
IMHO, the problem has been known for a long time and methods of its treatment have been found for a long time. There is even TPL 2014540/7 which describes in detail what to do.
heh. and where are the words - come to us - we will break it for you? 😆 😆 😆
ps on the topic - it was so for me too - this clutch is not fully squeezed out. : wave:
heh. and where are the words - come to us - we will break it for you? 😆 😆 😆
ps on the topic - it was so for me too - this clutch is not fully squeezed out. : wave:
Why come. Call me to the place and I will kill her myself in 2-3 minutes (if necessary) 😆 😆 😆
Why come. Call me to the place and I will kill her myself in 2-3 minutes (if necessary) 😆 😆 😆
😆 😆: lol :: lol: 😆: lol :: lol: 😆: lol :: lol: 😆 😆
NEVO is just a grip to wave ..
and so to love the most competent advice - IN SERVICE !!
Well, yes, well done, the advice that it is necessary to completely squeeze the clutch is of course overwhelmed, but do not you think that I haven’t tried this :(. Yes, and I’ve been driving it for the second year and it hasn’t happened before, and then suddenly it crunched. accordingly, the question arises why only when switching from the first to the second and the rear, why then when switching other speeds does not crunch, because the clutch is also pressed: confused:
There is even TPL 2014540/7
What is TPL 2014540/7 and what is it eaten with?
button accordion theme, Vaska also described (https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3436/forum/showthread.php?t=7587&highlight=%EA%EE%F0%EE%E1%EA% E0) problem solving
What is TPL 2014540/7 and what is it eaten with?
With these numbers, go to the dealer, and you will be happy: wave:
Hello everyone: wave:. In general, I had such a problem comrade. When you turn on the second and rear speeds on the manual transmission, there is some kind of crunch, piercing to the very bones. Earlier I heard such a sound on other cheap cars, they said “it breaks the box”: confused: but to hear such a sound on Passa: eek:
Dear Mr. EGO_111!
No matter how abruptly you start, no matter how high revs you spin your engine (unfortunately, we don’t know which one and with which manual transmission by code) when switching from 1st to 2nd it is necessary:
All manipulations a-e can be done quickly enough, but each of them must have its own fixation, both in your mind and in the “mind” of the auto mechanisms.
If the manipulations overlap each other (coincide in time with each other), it will not be possible to turn on the 2nd gear without crunching.
In addition to your actions, a crunching ring of synzronizer can also contribute to crunching.
If the lugs for attaching the engine to the cross member "A" are blocked by a casing or air filter housing, the latter must first be removed.
Remove the air filter housing assembly if it is in the area of the battery.
Remove the battery, battery cover and bracket.
Remove the lock washer 1 for the shift cable from the shift lever "A" (Fig. 1).
Remove the lock washer 2 for the cable selection cable from the intermediate lever "B" (Fig. 1).
Remove the shift cable and selection cable from the trunnions.
Remove the lock washer 3 from the intermediate lever "B" and remove the lever.
Remove the gear change lever "A", for which unscrew the nut 4 (Fig. 1).
Disconnect the cable stop from the transmission.
Then tie the shift cable and select cable at the top.
Remove the bracket "B" from the gearbox and pull it off the pipe-hose line "A" (Fig. 2).
Then remove the transmission support "A" (fig. 3).
Remove the clutch slave cylinder "B" and put it aside, fix it with a wire, do not open the lines. Do not press the clutch pedal again.
Remove the ground wire from the upper bolt securing the transmission to the engine.
Disconnect connector 1 from the reversing light switch (fig. 4).
Then disconnect connector 2 and line 3 from the starter.
Then remove the top mounting screw on the starter.
Remove the transmission / engine mounting screws at the top.
Disconnect all hoses and wires in the area of the engine mounting lugs for the "A" crosshead. Install the gripper with adapters in front of the bonnet stop.
Tighten the engine / gearbox assembly slightly with the lead screws.
Screw the holder onto the rear three receiving holes of the battery bracket. To do this, use a bolt with a shoulder M6x80 or a fastening bolt of the battery bracket.
Loosen the left and right front wheel bolts.
Remove the lower part of the front left fender liner.
Then be sure to disconnect all hoses from the transmission.
Remove, if present, the protective cap for the inner right CV joint (fig. 5).
Disconnect the exhaust system at the twin clip and unscrew the bracket for the exhaust pipe from the subframe.
Disconnect the drive shafts from the flanged shafts and secure them in the uppermost position without damaging the protective coating.
Remove the left and right tie rods from the stabilizer.
Unscrew the nuts of the ball joint to the support arm (fig. 6).
Remove the power unit lower support from the transmission.
Remove the steering gear from the subframe and tie up the steering gear. Secure the subframe before removing.
Remove the swingarm subframe, stabilizer bar and suspension arms.
Remove the left powertrain support hex bolts from the transmission mount.
Place the engine / gearbox unit in a tilt position, for which, using the lead screw, lower the yoke "A".
Lower the gearbox by moving the screw clamp
Remove the console of the transmission "A" (Fig. 7).
Small shield "A" for the flywheel behind the right flange shaft, if equipped, remove (Fig. 8).
Remove the rod 1 of the exhaust system from the gearbox and from the exhaust system (the fastening of the rod to the exhaust system is not visible in the figure) (Fig. 9).
Remove the starter. The mounting bracket is equipped with a mounting template for removing the "02S" gearbox. Install the mounting bracket onto the rotator.
Position the hooks of the mounting bracket according to the hole positions of the installation template.
Fasten the fastening elements "A" and "C" as shown on the installation template (Fig. 10).
The positioner must be placed under the car, the arrow "B" on the adjustment template shows the direction of the car's movement (Fig. 10).
Align the alignment template parallel to the gearbox and attach the locking support to the gearbox.
Then screw the pin into the hole for the power unit lower mount retaining screw on the transmission.
Remove the lower bolts securing the transmission to the engine.
Press the transmission away from the fitted bushings and carefully lower it.
Change the position of the transmission when lowering using the threaded spindles of the mounting bracket.
Observe all lines when lowering the transmission.
