DIY Honda manual transmission repair

We will not disassemble the device of the manual gearbox in detail: we are already talking about it told... However, let's go over the top - to understand the processes that affect our repair.

And so, globally, the gearbox is needed in order to transmit torque and power from the engine in a variable rev range. To change that range, pairs of gears with different gear ratios are used - thanks to them, those one and a half thousand revolutions will "turn" into several tens of revolutions of the driving wheels with a simultaneous increase in torque. The principle is similar to a bicycle one: we set off on a small sprocket, accelerated to 40 km / h - and switched to the next pair of gears with a lower gear ratio in order to go faster. There can be 4 or 5 such shifts - modern manual transmissions, as a rule, are five or six-speed.

The transmission of torque to the gearbox occurs directly by the meshing of these very gears. The gears are located on the shafts - there are two-shaft and three-shaft boxes. The former have a primary (driving) and a secondary (driven) shaft, while the latter transmit torque from the primary shaft to the secondary through an additional intermediate shaft. The gears located on the shafts are in constant engagement, but all pairs, except for the one that is selected as working at a particular moment, rotate freely. To select a pair - that is, to engage a particular gear by rigidly connecting the gear and the driven shaft - they came up with a special clutch and called it a synchronizer - we will talk more about the design and problems of synchronizers in the next article. By wielding the gear lever from the passenger compartment, you connect one or another gear to the driven shaft through the engagement forks and synchronizers and finally transfer the torque from the engine to it (and therefore to the wheels).

When we talk about a new (or not very new) car, the gearbox is often left out of the way. If you do not take into account the "particularly distinguished" checkpoints, which will be discussed below, most often simply.

In general, anything can fail and wear out in the gearbox - and fixing it, as we know, can be very expensive and difficult. At the same time, the manual transmission is much more "secretive" than the engine: sometimes it is possible to find out about a serious breakdown only after opening it. Therefore, when driving and changing gears, you must always listen to all sounds coming from the gearbox - and visit the service when you first fear.

Having excluded the clutch from the diagnostic list (we will also tell you about it separately), you can hear only crunching or knocking out of the box, but you can see only the lever that randomly returns from the operating position to neutral (in other words, "the transmission flies out"). The latter is usually associated with loose latches or problems with the synchronizer. In the first case, it is the wear of the synchronizers, excessive wear of the shaft bearings or the breakage of the gear teeth. And it’s about gears that we’ll talk about today.

They have several potential problems: excessive tooth wear, chipped or broken teeth, wear on the needle bearings of the gears, or wear on the circlips that can move the gear bushings. In general, chipping or damage to teeth is a rather rare occurrence, since they are calculated with a large margin of safety. But it also happens that the box is simply overloaded, while the clutch does not slip - and the teeth do not hold up.

This can also happen when the gearbox overheats - for example, due to an incorrectly selected transmission oil or due to its low level. Particular attention should be paid to the MCP in winter, in severe frosts.The oil in the crankcase turns into something resembling honey, so you shouldn't start moving right away - it is advisable to stand a little and wait until the oil warms up at least a little. You can feel and understand this by more easily moving the lever from position to position.

A visual aid Especially for this material, PacPac provided us with a FischerTechnik constructor, schematically showing the principle of operation of a manual transmission, and we even.

Returning to the MCP diagnostics, let us recall the sounds coming from it. The knocking or crunching sound can be either constant or occurring only when shifting gears. In the first case, this most likely means a global disaster - the gears are destroyed or the shaft bearings have come to an end. This is rare, but it happens. If the knock is heard only when switching, then there is a possibility that this is either wear of the synchronizers, or the notorious shaft bearings.

You can try to figure it out on the move by switching the gearbox to the next gear with double clutch release: by squeezing the clutch, move the lever to neutral, release the clutch, squeeze it again and, turning on the next gear, release it. If during this "dance" the knocking disappears, then there is a high probability of excessive wear of the synchronizer.

So, today on the "operating table" is a manual transmission 02J manufactured by the Volkswagen concern, which was installed on the Skoda Octavia. According to the owner, the only problem was some kind of knocking when driving in first gear. The knock pestered me, so the box was brought in for "treatment."

The box was brought separately from the car, our master did not drain the oil, and therefore did not see its condition. Having prepared the tools and, to the best of our strength and capabilities, having cleaned the MCP housing from dirt, dust and other foreign objects, we proceeded to disassembly.

Having unscrewed the mounting bolts, we removed the rear cover of the gearbox housing, under which the gears of the 5th gear are located. At the same time, the foreman gave the first assessment of the oil condition. This assessment was expressed in a wrinkled grimace, which gave the owner the first reason to get excited.

What can be done with the transmission case.

You can change the support bearings of the shafts, for this you need to move the circlip apart and carefully work with heads of large diameters and a hammer.

The idle gear ZX is also fixed there. There is also an auxiliary shaft with a gear and a reduced friction clutch. It is used when the selector is in “1” - you will notice that only in this position in the first gear there is engine braking.
In general, it can be disassembled - just squeeze the shaft inside the box, and move the gear, bearings and friction clutch to the side. There is no need to unscrew the nut (there is one). Flush everything, replace the oil seals on the shaft, disassemble and wash the friction clutch, change the rubber bands and discs on it. I did, since the repair kit had steel discs and rubber bands for this shaft. But in general, you can leave it alone. When reassembling, according to the manual, you need to put a new ATP guide cap (although the old one was like nothing).

On cable-operated boxes, you can change the small shaft seal of that same cable. Change the oil seal of the right inner CV joint.
That's it, the main cavity of the box has opened.

Remove the Reverse gear bushing, needle bearing and ZX gear from the output shaft. Unscrew the bolt from the ZX shift fork, remove the fork together with the selector ring. Now pull out both shaft assemblies together.

Further, the differential is removed in assembly

Change the seals of the left inner CV joint, input shaft in the torque converter housing.
Be careful when removing oil seals! Do not damage the case, it is aluminum, easily wrinkled and scratched. Rough scratches can be wiped off with # 600 sandpaper soaked in ATF for half an hour. Lubricate new oil seals with ATF. I used a hammer during installation - gently tapping on the oil seal in a circle, the most tedious thing is to insert the first millimeters with the whole circle.
There is also a control shaft oil seal (which transfers mode switching from the selector cable to the manual valve of the box). This oil seal can be changed without any problems.

Remove the filter (it can be in principle and immediately removed as the case was opened
It looks like it is clean, but it was worth washing it like dirt like from a boot ...
I will not buy a new one, I washed myself completely, and behind the walls too.
Turned on the bottom of the flashlight for clearance

in general, many recommend changing it, if there was dirt on it in the trash, I probably would have done so!
Inspecting the shaft

they should not influence the work, but where did such crap come from? I looked at the pictures of who repaired how - the same badass ... well, they do not look like the factory ones!
Next, we see the oil seals on the shaft

And watch where they go
to be continued in the following.

What can be done with the transmission case.

You can change the support bearings of the shafts, for this you need to move the circlip apart and carefully work with heads of large diameters and a hammer.

The idle gear ZX is also fixed there. There is also an auxiliary shaft with a gear and a reduced friction clutch. It is used when the selector is in “1” - you will notice that only in this position in the first gear there is engine braking.
In general, it can be disassembled - just squeeze the shaft inside the box, and move the gear, bearings and friction clutch to the side. There is no need to unscrew the nut (there is one). Flush everything, replace the oil seals on the shaft, disassemble and wash the friction clutch, change the rubber bands and discs on it. I did, since the repair kit had steel discs and rubber bands for this shaft. But in general, you can leave it alone. When reassembling, according to the manual, you need to put a new ATP guide cap (although the old one was like nothing).

On cable-operated boxes, you can change the small shaft seal of that same cable. Change the oil seal of the right inner CV joint.
That's it, the main cavity of the box has opened.

Furious Honda Club

adili | 27 Sep 2014

assembly in reverse order. Difficulty inserting the shafts with forks back. there is a trick - he compared the shafts as they should stand, tied them with duct tape to each other that they were a single whole. holding the forks (there are three of them) and the main thing is to get into the cross-section fork of the sample. I had to heat the case with a heater so that it sat down easily.

I almost forgot to clean, degrease and apply a new sealant.

afterword. B series is a little easier to parse

Alex | 29 Sep 2014

Fuck you handy. Respect and respect

Thank you so much for the photo report.

How long did it take to disassemble the gearbox, how much did it take to assemble? Did you use any manuals in this case?

And this is another question, I glanced at the manuals, did not see if there was a gasket in the box between the parts of the case. Or is everything going on the sealant?

adili | 29 Sep 2014

Alex | 30 Sep 2014

Got it, thanks for the info. I really hope that this photo review and instructions for it will be useful to members of the forum, and just to forum visitors.

Next season I plan to open my box. And then the rear one does not always come in the first time, it feels like I'm not pressing the clutch. I sin on synchronizers. But only the autopsy will show

The previous owner's car was in the garage for almost a year. Seals dry (not only boxes), oil leaked. When I bought it, there was a barely noticeable rustle from the box, my hands didn’t reach, then they did, but late - in the end, a little less than a year passed and the manual transmission, even flooded above the level, was already emitting a “pulsating howl-grinding”, the car noticeably lost traction, idle speed became lower.

clutch pedal to the floor - silence
clutch pedal released - rustling, hum

1st repair approximately h / w half a year.
I did not understand the question properly. The masters advised to start by replacing the clutch and oil seals:

HONDA 91205PX5005. RUB 379.00
HONDA 91206PX5005. RUB 275.00
NOK 91214PAAA01. RUB 486.00 OIL SEAL, rear crankshaft (for the company)
EXEDY HCK2030. RUB 5,437.00 Clutch lump / ct [224 mm]
KOYO 60022RUCM. 167.00 rub. Bearing Honda 91006634008
Job. RUB 6,100.00

about the KOYO 60022RUCM: without really understanding it, I bought it as a bearing for the input shaft, in my opinion, it was called that in the catalogs. Somewhere I read a glimpse, supposedly just to change, it is right behind the flywheel and can make noise, incl. because of him

The master did not find any bearing
In short, after blowing up my brain I realized that there are 2 types of flywheels, one with a pressed-in bearing, the second without (see attached file “00a.doc”) Moreover, the purpose of this bearing is shrouded in mystery! The input shaft does not reach it and, moreover, has a larger diameter. At some forum on this topic there was a dispute, the truth, as always, remained in the middle.
We figured it out - I had a flywheel without a bearing, the clutch and oil seals were changed, the noise remained. A little later, I refilled the slurry above the level, by the way, I forgot to change it during this repair - it seemed to be a little better.

It is now clear that the trouble is in the box. Again, hands did not reach for a long time, gradually, the manual transmission went into gear.

In order not to guess any more, I decided to change the thrust bearings of both shafts. The sound from the manual transmission was such that in parallel I was looking for boxes for analysis. As the most extreme option - evroavto.rf - 12t.r. And look how much the new one costs)

2nd repair about half a year after the 1st:

HONDA 91002PG1018 BRG, BALL 28X68X18. 1475 rbl
HONDA 91102PG2008 BALL BEARING. 1164 RUB
HONDA 91003PG2008 LAGER. 1206 RUB
HONDA 91004PX5008 BEARING GEARBOX. 1622 RUB
HONDA 91216PH8003 OIL SEAL. 336 r
HONDA 91103P6J004 LAGER. 1467 RUB
HONDA 087989031 MTF-II * 3L. 1403 RUB
Job. ... RUB 10500

I wanted to take more, but there were many refusals and did not wait:

HONDA 90202PH8000 METAL NUT. 331 r shaft locknut - there will be no superfluous!
HONDA 21103PX5010 COVER PLASTIC. 191 r I don't know why, but I wanted to take

Result: absolutely quiet operation of the checkpoint, cravings returned to the button accordion, and a healthy sleep to me!
One bearing was in the trash, the rest were approaching it.
Masters test! In a year I will unsubscribe how it works

in fig. 05.07.08 noted that he changed.
lock nut No. 11 in Fig. 07
also note that oil seal # 11 in fig. 08 is drawn in a much larger size than it came with the same number. It confused me, but everything worked fine.

The reason for parsing the manual transmission: backlash of internal grenades in the differential.

I won’t write a lot of a box, but I’ll write in a nutshell: pictures will be added over time, items will be edited in more detail.

1) loosen the hub nuts
2) loosen the wheel nuts
3) jack the car
4) remove the wheels, put boards under the thresholds, etc., remove the jack
5) unscrew the ball nuts with a 19 wrench
6) we knock down the ball from the lower lever with a sharp blow of a hammer (preferably with a small sledgehammer), it is advisable to press the lever from above with a pry bar

7) unscrew the hub nuts to the end and remove the outer CV joint from the fist
8) go into the pit with the mount, insert the mount between the glass of the inner grenade and the box, and snap out the entire drive.

9) remove the starter with a 14 wrench, the upper bolt (short) can be unscrewed easily and easily, and for the lower (long) bolt, a small knob 10 cm long is desirable.

10) with a head of 17, unscrew all the bolts securing the box to the engine, it does not cause problems, again, preferably a long "L" -shaped knob, put another pipe on it.
11) unscrew all 3 pillows of the box.
11.5) for the convenience of removing the box, you can remove the lower arm with a saber

12) we climb into the hole, pull the korobas towards the right wheel and take it out.

13) with a key 2, unscrew the clutch fork bolt, and take out the stem, release spring.

14) with a 12 head, unscrew all the bolts that secure the box to 2 cases.

15) on the top of the body there is a plug with a 4-sided wrench, we unscrew it and see the bearing and the retaining ring, we unclench the ring with special pliers and remove one part of the body, and we see this.

16) remove the reverse gear fork, on 2 bolts by 10, and the gear with the shaft

here is the attachment point for the fork with 2 bolts by 10

17) in order to remove the forks with shafts and gears, I unscrewed the gear selector rod bolt (in a circle), and the plug on the side of the body (the arrow is shown) and took out everything together with the shafts, gears and forks

18) take out the differential

For information, on this box L3 bearings of drives Ntn 6207c, D internal = 35 mm, oil seals go to the box

Left 91205-PL3-A01 or 91205-PL3-A02 dimensions 35X56X8
Right 91206-PL3-A01 or 91206-PL3-A02 dimensions 35X62X8

Actually the question is whether the differential should play like this or not.

Added by (08.07.2013, 20:03)
———————————————
All bearings, and especially the synchromes as new, were disassembled only because of the backlash in the differential. Who knows if the differential is adjustable? Is it the gears of the differential or is it just a new one you need?

An automatic gearbox is the most expensive unit in a car to repair, which is why when the first signs of a problem appear, it is necessary to immediately eliminate the defect. If this is not done on time, then in the future it can turn into more serious problems. And if you contact a specialized service, then repairs there can be very expensive. Motorists, having studied the spare parts market, come to one conclusion - that doing it yourself is a pretty good idea, since you can save a lot.

We have prepared this article specifically for those who have never encountered problems in the gearbox, as well as if you are planning to repair it on your own. We will tell you in detail, using an example, how to repair an automatic transmission srv rd1 with your own hands. We will also share with you some interesting knowledge, in the future they will help you extend the life of your car.

In the 21st century, absolutely all cars moving on highways are insured; in the event of a malfunction, most of the costs can be covered. But the insurance also specifies the conditions that repair and maintenance can be carried out only in special auto repair shops. Otherwise, if suddenly the repairs were carried out in other places or on their own, then all guarantees will be lost.

And if you still decide to do the repair yourself, then you should be aware that if any parts of the car are disassembled, no one will pay you the damage caused to it.

It is strictly forbidden to move the car by towing, especially if there is an excess of oil in the box. Do not forget to change the oil in the car - it is recommended to do this every 20 thousand kilometers. This, of course, is an individual indicator and it depends on many other factors, but it definitely needs to be changed more often than once a year. Too much oil in the box is also not good, because it will start to foam and will not dissipate heat well from the transmission. Therefore, it is advisable to check the oil whenever you are especially going on a long trip.

The whole process takes place according to the following plan:

Removing the box from the case.

New complete set with spare parts.

The structure of all ACKP is the same, and therefore it will not present difficulties. The differences are only in the transmission control device, it can be either electronic or hydraulic. And therefore, the repair process will have minor differences.

Most of all transmission problems arise from improper use of the vehicle. Now we will share with you the main factors that further lead to the disruption of the entire transmission:

Insufficient or excessive oil level, because of this, the gears wear out quickly and jerks and breakdowns may occur when shifting;

Towing, we have already talked about this, and you need to remember that you should not tow the car;

Sharp braking and acceleration also lead to rapid wear of parts;

The gear knob is stuck - find out more about how the automatic transmission is being repaired

It is desirable to detect violations in the operation of the gearbox at the very first stages, so you do not have to completely go through the gearbox and get very wasted. There are plenty of signs of problems in the box, but we will tell you the most common ones:

Distinctive sounds when shifting gears, there may also be an extraneous odor;

If the gear does not engage at all, this is a sign of a serious malfunction, and emergency repairs will need to be done;

You should always check the surface under the car for any stains.If they are found, then this indicates a leak, and this problem will need to be addressed.

Repair of this car can be done both by specialists and by hand. As with all cars, in order to disassemble the box, you need to remove it. To do this, you need to disconnect the subframe part, disassemble the lower stabilizers. The repair process consists in disassembling the box, identifying problems and eliminating them, and then all this work is done in the reverse order. Do not forget to check the operation of the torque converter, and the entire integrity of its device. Because parts can be worn out there, and this is not good.

Next, you should check the condition of the friction sections, they can fail very often, mainly due to sudden braking. After all the steps have been completed, you need to mount the box back into the car. First of all, all the attachments, and then the torque converter, and at the end, fix the transfer case. It should be noted that such work without fail requires at least minimal knowledge in the structure of the car. You can repair a Honda CR-V car with your own hands, but still there are cases that you will have to contact a professional at a service station.

The box is a very complex mechanism that must be looked after, otherwise it can lead to negative consequences. If you take care of the car correctly, then the box repair may not be necessary even after 250 thousand kilometers. Therefore, try to drive correctly and not rape your car. An example of good serviceability is Japanese cars from the 1980s. Some of them have already covered about a million thousand kilometers. Do not forget about your car, and then it will serve you for many years without major repairs.

We hope that our article was useful for you, and you could figure out how to properly repair the automatic transmission "Honda" SRV RD-1 with your own hands. You should not wait for the most terrible signal from your car so that you do not have to change it. Pay attention even on small signs, and then the car will thank you with a long service life. We wish you every success!

Some of the cars are equipped with a manual, five-speed gearbox, combined with the main gear and differential in a common crankcase. It consists of two parts - the gearbox housing and the clutch housing. The crankcase connection is sealed with a petrol-oil-resistant sealant. The torque is transmitted to the front wheels by drives with constant velocity joints. A hole is made in the lower part of the gearbox housing, into which a transfer case is installed, transmitting torque through the cardan transmission to the rear axle. The connection between the transfer case and the gear housing is sealed with a rubber O-ring.

The gearbox housing is filled with 2.1 liters of transmission oil, which does not require regular replacement during vehicle operation.

The gearshift mechanism is driven by two flexible rods. This eliminates the transmission of vibration to the gear lever.

In a garage with a viewing ditch, it is possible to replace the front wheel drive oil seals, the transfer case O-ring and repair the gear shift drive. To repair the gearbox associated with its disassembly, it is necessary to hang out the power unit or remove it as an assembly. Therefore, such work should be carried out in a specialized workshop with the necessary equipment.

To complete the work, you will need a viewing ditch or overpass.

Sequence of execution
1. We install the car on a viewing ditch or overpass.

2. We inspect the gearbox from all sides, make sure there are no oil leaks at the joints of the crankcases and from under the hole plugs, as well as through the front wheel drive oil seals.

Oil leakage through the gearbox input shaft seal can be determined by the leakage between the clutch housing and the crankcase cover.It should be borne in mind that the same drips will cause wear on the crankshaft rear oil seal, but, as a rule, the entire outer surface of the crankcase cover is covered with oil.

If leaks are found, it is necessary to check the oil level in the gearbox housing. In a box operated with a low oil level in the crankcase, intensive wear of parts occurs, which reduces its service life.

3. Using a 17 mm spanner wrench, unscrew the control hole plug.

4. Remove the plug from the hole and remove the O-ring.
5. Through the hole, check the oil level in the gearbox housing, which should be at the lower edge of the control hole.

If the level is below normal, it is necessary to add transmission oil to the gearbox housing.

6. We make sure that the clutch is in good working order, if necessary, we eliminate the detected malfunctions.
7. Pressing the clutch pedal and in turn changing the forward gears, check the clarity of their engagement and disengagement.

If gear shifting requires effort or gears do not shift, it is necessary to disconnect the rods from the gearbox and make sure that the drive elements are in good working order, check the condition of the protective covers of the rods. Replace tie rods if necessary. If the gearshift drive is working properly, the gearshift mechanism in the gearbox itself is probably faulty.

8. Set the gear lever to neutral and start the engine. Having pressed the clutch pedal several times, we listen to the sound of the gearbox bearings. It appears when the clutch pedal is released and disappears when it is depressed. Loud bearing noise indicates bearing wear.
9. We check the operation of the transmission in motion. To do this, moving first with acceleration and then with deceleration, we switch gears up and then down. We check the clarity of switching gears on and off while driving, the operation of synchronizers. We are convinced of the absence of crunching, knocking and other extraneous sounds during the operation of the box, as well as in the absence of spontaneous disengagement of gears when the load changes.

Difficulty shifting gears while driving can be caused by faulty synchronizers. Excessive noise during transmission operation may indicate worn bearings or gears. The elimination of such malfunctions is associated with the need to remove and disassemble the gearbox. Therefore, such work should be performed in a specialized technical center.

Repair of the gearbox (gearbox) Honda Civic can be major or partial. Repair of the box (manual transmission) of the Honda Civic should be done only after initial diagnostics at a car service. Very often, a third-party opinion that the box needs to be repaired turns out to be erroneous. It can also be caused by the clutch, flywheel, and gear selector.

We offer two options for repairing a transmission (manual transmission):

Partial (local) repair of the Honda Civic gearbox - we remove the box, disassemble it, wash and defect. Troubleshooting the box is the determination of the cause of its failure, indicating a specific malfunction. A list of spare parts for this malfunction is also provided. After agreement, we make repairs to eliminate the specific malfunction that the client has contacted. We do not touch the rest of the components and spare parts in the gearbox.

Overhaul of the Honda Civic checkpoint - as well as with partial repairs, the box is removed and completely disassembled, washed and defective. In this case, we are not looking for a specific cause of the breakdown, but we are doing a complete defect diagnosis. All units and spare parts with increased wear, all bearings, oil seals and gaskets are determined and changed.

Disassembly of the automatic transmission actuator

Automatic transmission oil and filter change - Honda Civic 4D 1.8 i-vtec