In detail: do-it-yourself Renault Fluence manual transmission repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The compact Renault Fluence car is built on the basis of the Nissan C platform. The latest version has a redesigned design, an increased trunk volume, a new multimedia system, but there are still problems with the hardware.
After 80,000 km, Renault has a knock when turning the steering wheel. This is the first sign of a problem with the steering rack. If repairs are not started, the disease will progress. The defect can be eliminated by hand. Several instructional videos can be found on the internet.
The rack is a steel bar, on which teeth are applied on one side, which, using a worm gear, indicate the direction of the wheels from the movement of the steering wheel. In order for the rail to move without free play and not be clamped rigidly, it is pressed with a spring-loaded cracker.
Over time, the cracker, also called the piston, wears out, and the rack begins to play. You can tighten the piston for a while. After that, the steering wheel turns harder, but without knocking.
In some cases, the tightening will not help, because the spring has been eaten by rust, changing it is not a problem. But all the same, if the biscuit is eaten, it must be replaced. If the repair is not started on time, then the rail will have to be changed. After the clamping cracker is installed, it must be adjusted. If tightened all the way, the Fluence handlebars will turn hard. Do not hold out - the rail will dangle and knock. Take a close look at how this is done in the video tutorials that can be found on the Internet.
The knock of the steering rack in Renault also occurs due to the wear of the bushing. In parallel, you may find that the Fluence rudder does not clearly return to zero position.
Video (click to play). |
The steering rack fails not only because of a cracker or bushing that has worked. Over time, usually after 80,000 km, her central tooth is eaten away. From this, there is a backlash of the steering wheel in the center position. Repairs are made by replacing the rail. Video explanations can be found on the Internet.
On frosty days, you can run into serious trouble when suddenly Renault's brakes fail. The pedal stakes, and it is impossible to squeeze it out.
The breakdown is unpleasant and difficult to eliminate, it is found not only in Renault, but it is restored with its own hands. It is caused by the fact that water freezes in the check valve tube in frost below 20 degrees. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs water constantly. In the end, so much of it collects that it is released into condensation and freezes in the area of the valve in frosty weather.
To quickly unlock the Fluence brake system, spray WD-40 or alcohol into the tube.
The ice plug will dissipate very quickly and the Fluence repair is temporarily completed. Temporarily, because the situation can repeat itself at any time. Change the brake fluid immediately upon arrival at the garage or parking lot. The tube together with the valve must be insulated in any way. For example, wrap with a piece of faux fur or blanket, cover with a cut rubber hose on top and fix. The video on the Internet clearly shows how to do this.
For the winter, it makes sense to insulate the Renault space under the hood. This can be done by inserting a piece of cardboard under the radiator grill. But if you take the problem seriously, then special kits for insulating the compartment are sold in car dealerships.
If Fluence's battery warning light comes on, it means that it has stopped charging. The reason may be both the generator and the operation of the shields. The repair is not difficult - you can do it yourself. There is a good selection of videos on this topic on the Internet.
To replace the brushes, remove the belt from the generator, disconnect the wires, unscrew the fasteners, and take it out.Next, unscrew the two screws of the voltage regulator and dismantle it. Brushes are installed on it.
Of course, it is more convenient to change the brushes assembled with a voltage regulator, but if you have time, you can suffer for the sake of economy and pleasure. We unscrew the old brushes, and in their place we install the usual ones from the VAZ. Before that, we grind them a little on emery to give the desired size. We drill holes in the contacts, stretch the tails from the brushes there and solder them on the back side. Dripping with tsaponlac on top of the soldering and installing in the reverse order.
On Renault Fluence, the timing belt is replaced according to the same principle as on most other foreign cars. As you know, the timing belt must be changed every 60 thousand kilometers or once every 4 years, even if during this time the car did not leave the prescribed mileage. The fact is that rubber has its own limited service life and if it is not replaced at a certain point, this can lead to serious consequences.
When it is time to replace your timing belt, it is important to know if the chain or belt is installed on your vehicle. Renault Fluence owners need to know that the type of drive - chain or belt - directly depends on the modification of the Frenchman. On older cars, a timing belt is installed, on a new engine there is a chain. It is also important to know how long it takes to replace the timing belt.
- The frequency of belt replacement is every 60 thousand kilometers or every 4 years
- The chain serves about 130 thousand km of run
The sequence of the process of replacing the timing belt with Renault Fluence depends on the type of engine - gasoline or diesel. But, in general, the stages of replacement on cars with different types of engines are similar and differ only in some details. Replacement can be done on your own or you can use the services of specialists.
Let's consider how to change the timing belt using the example of a car with a 1.6 liter K4M gasoline engine. Before starting work, you will need to purchase a Renault Fluence timing kit. The kit consists of a belt itself, bolts and a roller.
- Lift the car
- Remove the engine cover and remove the right wheel arch liner
- Raise the engine with a jack, resting it on the pallet near the crankshaft pulley
- Unscrew the upper mount at the engine mount, unscrew the support
- Disconnect and move aside the gasoline pipe union
- Remove the plug of the end of the camshaft at the intake valves (it is easy to find it - this plug is the largest in diameter)
- Engage the fifth gear, then slowly rotate clockwise the wheel drive to the hub with a 30 key (viewed from the engine compartment)
- Align the shafts along the intake camshaft (where the plug was removed) in one line with serifs - in this case, the serifs must be located below the camshaft axis
- Unscrew two nuts and three bolts with a 13 wrench, after which it will be possible to remove the upper protective cover from the timing belt
- Remove tension roller and alternator belt
- Put it back in fifth gear, after which the partner must press the brake all the way
- At the same time, unscrew the bolt securing the crankshaft damper pulley with a key 18 and remove the pulley
- Remove 4 bolts from the lower plastic timing belt cover and dismantle it
- Fix the toothed camshaft pulleys to prevent rotation - this can be done using two washers and an M10x50 bolt with a nut (it is also recommended to make additional marks on the cover body and on the pulleys with a marker)
- Also, before removing the timing belt, it is necessary to set marks on the engine housing and on the crankshaft toothed pulley with a marker
- Unscrew the timing roller nut with a 13 key and remove the belt
- Unscrew the bolt with a T40 wrench
- Remove timing pulley
- Further, before removing the tension roller, it is necessary to mark its position in order to correctly set the belt tension in the future.
- Fasten the bypass then tension rollers
- It is necessary to fix the preload with a self-tapping screw, focusing on the position of the old tensioner
- The timing belt itself only needs to be thrown onto the lower part of the crankshaft toothed pulley - this will simplify the installation of the belt on the roller
- Rotate the crankshaft through the wheel hub - in the process, you need to monitor the coincidence of the marks on the pulleys
- Install the new roller tensioner with the self-tensioning mechanism of the drive poly V-belt
- Install the bottom plastic cover
- Reinstall the crankshaft damper pulley and secure it with a new bolt with a thick washer (it is included in the kit) with a sufficiently strong interference - during the procedure, you need to turn on the fifth gear again, while the assistant must press the brake pedal forcefully
- Put on the drive belt.
- Remove the retaining bolt and washers from the camshaft toothed pulleys
- Close the upper cover (duralumin) of the timing belt
- Tighten the support and the upper engine mount
- Connect the fuel line fitting
- Insert a new plug on the end housing of the intake camshaft cover
- Reinstall the right wheel
- Remove jack
To check the correct installation of the timing belt on Renault Fluence, it is necessary to start the engine after all the procedures performed. If it makes the usual smooth noise, then the replacement was done correctly.
Replacing the timing chain with Renault Fluence is done in the same way.
The price of work on replacing the timing belt with Fluence in the service is about 4.5 - 5 thousand rubles. To this must be added the price of the replacement kit. When replacing it on its own, the motorist will need to spend only on a timing kit.
You can buy a timing kit for Renault Fluence from 4,700 rubles. up to 6 250 rubles.
- Original timing kit Fluence - number 7701477023
- Original replacements - part number 7701474359, 7701471974
The original Renault Fluence timing belt is reinforced - it is reinforced with Kevlar fiber, which protects the belt from stretching.
The manual transmission of the 2012 Renault Fluence 1.6 manual transmission was repaired.
Repair of the Fluence 1.6 gearbox (repair of the Renault Fluence 1.6 manual gearbox) 2010 - present
Customer complaints: Howl from the Renault Fluence 1.6 gearbox when driving in fifth gear.
Checkpoint fault finding showed: Deformation of the teeth of the fifth gears, wear of the fifth gear fork.
List of spare parts: Fifth gear gears (set of 2 pcs.), Fifth gear fork, axle shaft oil seals, fifth gear bushing.
Spare parts manual transmission Fluence 1.6 price: 10500 p
Deadline: 4 hours.
Repair of manual transmission Fluence 1.6: 4990 p
Renault Fluence 1.6 manual transmission repair with spare parts: 15490 p
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- 7 permanently working qualified technicians with extensive experience in repairing manual transmissions
- 10 lifts for dismantling and installing units, providing the fastest mounting and dismounting in the city
- Safe storage of cars during repairs in our own guarded parking lot, 24-hour video surveillance
- A professional approach to every stage of work, from diagnostics and removal of the gearbox, to testing and running-in after installation
We are ready to purchase a faulty manual transmission from any manufacturer at the maximum price. You can exchange a damaged box for a working one (contract or refurbished). The unit can cost 1,000-20,000 rubles, based on its condition and modification.
Sale of manual transmission parts is carried out taking into account the technical parameters of the manual transmission installed on your car. The selection is carried out by a qualified specialist in strict accordance with the data obtained during the diagnosis of the manual transmission, which revealed the elements to be replaced. To save your money, there are always more than 15,000 manual transmission spare parts in stock, both new and used.
It will not be difficult for us and, believe me, there will be enough experience to repair any manual transmission of a passenger car or minibus. Our company is present on the service market and has been repairing manual transmissions, manual transmissions for more than 7 years.A simple calculation shows: 7 years is 84 months, and every month at least 50 gearboxes pass through the golden hands of our gearbox repair specialists. As a result, on average, we have 4200 manual transmissions that have received a new life, and 4200 satisfied customers who have found the highest quality and most professional gearbox repair in St. Petersburg.
This article will focus on another chronic sore of many Renault models: Scenic, Megane, Clio, etc. with manual transmission. Namely, gear shifting problems. This material will help fairly advanced owners who have experience in self-repairing their Renault.
Required spare parts for replacement on the example of the first generation Renault Scenic:
2. Cuffs plastic fixing (bushings) - 7700695569
3. Rubber clip (damper)
4. Reverse gear cable retainer (inside the sphere) 7711129445
5. Bellow outer 7700863684
Typical symptoms:
Complicated gear shifting, additional load for shifting. The most common problems with the inclusion of the first and second gear. Complications build up over time.
The symptomatology is influenced by the time, mileage, the presence of lubrication, as well as the unsuccessful execution of the mechanism by Renault engineers in itself.
The design developed by Renault engineers is, to put it mildly, unreliable. For the precise operation of gear shifting in the checkpoint, engineers have built a complex mechanism that requires complex precision in operation.
The following components are responsible for precise operation in the switching mechanism:
1. Rubber clip - damper
3. Fixing plastic cuffs (sleeves)
For the reasons described above (time, mileage, etc.), these mechanisms wear out rather quickly, which leads to problems with gear shifting on Meganes, Scenes and other Renault models from the Megane line.
The main problem is the plastic cuffs, which wear out first and provide vertical play.
In second place is a sphere, in third is a damper.
The Renault manual transmission backstage has other problems - the outer boot, the upper clip for the reverse gear, more on that later.
Diagnostics of the backstage problem
If your car has the symptoms described above, then first of all you need to check for the presence of vertical backlash on the gearshift knob. We also pay attention to the switching mechanism and the state of the hold-down spring.
The manufacturer Renault and representatives of the official Renault dealerships believe that in “our” case it is necessary to replace the ENTIRE mechanism, from the gearshift knob to the thrust link.
If there is a desire to save money, as well as in the presence of hands from the right place, we read the description of the repair procedure:
We disassemble the backstage mechanism. Depending on the model and modification of your Renault, the algorithm and procedures may differ, but the principle is the same throughout the line.
1. We throw off the checkpoint rod from the wings - 1 nut
2. Unscrew the mounting bolts of the gear selector housing - 4 nuts
* For some models, to complete steps 1 and 2, it is necessary to remove the exhaust pipe, cardan, disassemble the inner panel of the gearshift lever.
3. We remove the entire gearshift handle mechanism
4. One of the interesting points is the removal of the handle! Stock up on patience and a vocabulary from the obscene vocabulary.
* I advise you to find the holes on the inner sleeve of the handle and pre-widen them with any suitable metal rod. Next, we stupidly knock down the handle, but I will repeat everything through the inner sleeve.
5. Next, remove the retaining ring. We throw off the reverse gear cable and remove the locking stopper.
6. We take out the whole mechanism. It is important to remember the sequence.
7. We get to the rubber damper we need, in which “the root of evil is hidden”. Namely, it contains a sphere and two cuffs, inside the sphere there is another sleeve, they are different depending on the car model.
8. We take out the upper cuff from the rubber frame - the damper, then the sphere (it can be disassembled into two hemispheres), the lower cuff
... Important. Mark the top and bottom cuffs.
9.We remove the remnants of the old grease
10. We disassemble the sphere and put one of the halves upside down, you can all, or you can not change, the point is to find an option with the smallest vertical backlash.
11. Most importantly, we swap the upper and lower plastic cuffs. the main wear is on the lower lip.
* In more detail: We take the sphere clamped with inverted cuffs in our hands, if there is a gap, we try to turn the sphere or its halves, looking for the optimal position.
12. Putting everything together in the reverse order, as much as possible adding specials. grease. If you often repair a car, 7711126145 is suitable or any consistent thick for plastic. You can use polyflons, silicones, teflons, etc.
13. We collect everything and put it back
There is one more weak point in this mechanism - the outer anther, a thing not fatal, but still. So if you are doing repairs, prepare to replace the boot at the same time.
If you have something to add to the article, or you want to share your experience on this topic, please leave a comment.
If you are the author of a report on the repair, modification of a Renault car or recommend material for the Renault-Drive Knowledge Base - please, let us know
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Renault Fluence gearbox (gearbox) repair can be major or partial. Repair of the box (manual transmission) Renault Fluence must be done only after initial diagnostics in a car service. Very often, a third-party opinion that the box needs to be repaired turns out to be erroneous. It can also be caused by the clutch, flywheel, and gear selector.
We offer two options for repairing a transmission (manual transmission):
Partial (local) repair of Renault Fluence gearbox - we remove the box, disassemble it, wash and defect. Troubleshooting a box is determining the cause of its failure, indicating a specific malfunction. A list of spare parts for this malfunction is also provided. After agreement, we make repairs to eliminate the specific malfunction that the client has contacted. We do not touch the rest of the components and spare parts in the gearbox.
Overhaul of the Renault Fluence checkpoint - as well as with partial repairs, the box is removed and completely disassembled, washed and defective. In this case, we are not looking for a specific cause of the breakdown, but we are doing a complete defect diagnosis. All units and spare parts with increased wear, all bearings, oil seals and gaskets are determined and changed.
Renault Fluence has been traveling around our mother Russia for more than one year, and so far no one has complained.Renault has created an excellent C-class car for our roads and conditions. But still, each part has its own service life.
The clutch on a car with a manual transmission has an average resource of 100 thousand kilometers. This is a good result, there are cases when 130 thousand were used with careful operation.
When the Renault Fluence clutch resource comes to an end, this can be understood by several obvious signs. It is better to immediately go for diagnostics or repairs than to run into such a breakdown on the road, after which you will have to call a tow truck.
- Jerk and jerk when starting off indicates problems in the gearbox and in the engine. This is very noticeable in first gear, after the car has been driven for a long time in the urban cycle.
- One of the obvious reasons is the problem with the inclusion of gears. If the pedal is fully depressed, and the gear is engaged with difficulty, this indicates problems, it is better to immediately contact the service station. If you delay it, then it is fraught with problems in the future with the gearbox.
- When the car starts to move at the very beginning of the clutch pedal. This problem occurs due to auto-regulation. Sometimes the problem occurs due to the appearance of air in the system.
Almost every Renault Fluence car owner who has changed the clutch at least once will say that this is a rather laborious process. A beginner will most likely not be able to cope with this task right away, let alone how long it will take him. It is better to replace the Renault Fluence clutch system in pairs, since it is almost impossible to perform some points in the repair alone.
- The main and frequent problem of failure is the wear of the pads on the disk. Occurs due to normal wear and tear over time.
If you take good care of the clutch, the disc can last at least 120 thousand kilometers.
Failure of damper springs occurs for the same reason described above. The more frequent switching occurs, the faster they fail. Their resource is equal to 120-150 thousand.
- The release bearing is the same candidate for replacement almost always after 100 thousand kilometers. After a characteristic creak when you press the pedal, you can always define its condition as critical.
- The first step is to remove all unnecessary things so that nothing gets in the way during replacement. First the battery is removed, after which - its platform, the ECU block.
- Next, you need to unscrew the crankshaft position sensor.
- The shift cables and their platform where they stand are disconnected.
- Further, all the wires and pipes should be hung somewhere or fixed with something.
- The radiator is hung out, its cross member is removed.
- The axle shafts are removed. To do this, you need to remove the strut from the steering knuckle.
- After removing the axle shaft, the steering rack is unscrewed, it must be fixed on the exhaust pipe.
- The tie rods and stabilizer struts are removed.
- When the subframe is removed, you need to secure the engine with an emphasis, since after removing the box it will practically hang. After all the manipulations passed, the right and left semi-axles move away without problems and allow the box to quietly exit.
- Further, the clutch is already removed without any problems, the replacement is made within half an hour, after which everything should be assembled in the reverse order.