DIY vaz 2112 module repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the vaz 2112 module from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

When operating a VAZ 21102 car, after 15,000 km. run, I suddenly discovered a strange malfunction: - from time to time, high voltage disappeared on the 2nd and 3rd cylinders. All suspicions immediately fell on the ignition module.

When inspecting it "on the go" it was noticed that if you press on the rear aluminum plate, the engine started to work normally. It would seem that everything is clear, the ignition module is dead, you need to go buy a new one, but the price bites painfully.
It was decided to carry out "trepanation" and study, so to speak, the material part of the above-mentioned miracle of the automobile industry.

Take a screwdriver and tear off the aluminum plate.

That's it, done, what do we see there. Small printed circuit board with electronics. The board is covered with a thick layer of transparent silicone, which was carefully removed by us. So, the wires by which the board is connected to the contacts of the connectors and coils are made of soft aluminum or some other metal. “So this is where my death lurked. ”- these wires are rather flimsy and tear almost at a glance.

So during the autopsy, we successfully tear off all the wires from all contacts. Well, now let's get down to business. For repair we need
thin wires, preferably stranded. The wires from the broken "mouse" came in handy for this role. As I said, remove the transparent silicone as well as the remnants of the white auto silicone.
In the meantime, let's take a look at our "giblets".

As you can see from the photo, the circuit consists of two L497D1 switches from SGS-THOMSON and two powerful BU931 transistors.
When soldering, it turned out that the contacts on the module are made of aluminum and soldering their business is not for the faint of heart, so it was purchased
special flux for aluminum.

Video (click to play).

The desoldering technology is as follows:

first we solder the wires to the board. Moreover, it is advisable to remove the old wires from the board, although they are tinned better. Soldering the wires to the collectors of the transistors caused a particular difficulty - they are covered with some kind of metal that is difficult to solder. The bur-machine helped to strip the plaque of this metal to copper, but that's not all. When touched with a soldering iron, its heat was instantly dissipated on the aluminum plate. In order to properly solder, I had to put the entire plate on the electric stove and heat it up to 180 degrees.
then we solder the wires of the board to the corresponding contacts in the “womb” of the module, trying to make the wires as short as possible.
we cover the soldering points with some kind of varnish (I secretly took nail polish from my wife)

The result should be something like this.

It is advisable to conduct general tests of the device for its performance before final assembly. THE MAIN RULE WHEN CONDUCTING THE TEST: - TREAT WITH YOUR FEET IN THE SIDE OF THE EXPLOSION, THE AUTOMATIC UNDER YOURSELF TO DO NOT MELT :-)). If the device has shown its efficiency, then having coated the inner surface with auto-sealant, we produce the final assembly by tucking the wires inside the cavity so that they are not clamped by the plate to the edges of the cavity. Well, if the device does not work, then you will have to look for the malfunction more carefully. Perhaps this is a failure of electronic components, an open circuit or short circuit in the coils.

In conclusion, for the "folk crazy" I want to say that the L497D1 switch costs about $ 3, the BU931 transistor - about $ 6.
You can try to replace the transistor with the domestic KT848A, it is much cheaper, but its SIZES are impressive.

Hello everyone! My name is Mikhail, now I'll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange a dvenashka for a 2010 Camry.It all started with the fact that I was wildly annoyed by the breakdowns of the two, like nothing serious broke down, but the little things, damn it, so many things that really started to enrage. Here the idea was born that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the tayet Camry of the tenths.

In this case, high voltage on the 2nd and 3rd cylinders sometimes disappears in the car. After a while, it was noticed that the engine started to work normally if you press a little on the back plate of the ignition module. It was decided to restore the unit's functionality.
First you need remove the ignition module VAZ 2110 (instruction).

Checking the ignition module for operability and after that we coat the inner surface with auto-sealant and make the final assembly. After assembly, the wires should be free, make sure that they are not pinched inside the box.
If the cause of the malfunction was not in bad contact, then you will have to look for the cause elsewhere, or replace the ignition module with a new one.

In conclusion, it will be useful for experienced electricians to know that the L497D1 switch costs about $ 3, the BU931 transistor - about $ 6.
The transistor can be replaced with the domestic KT848A, it is cheaper, but its dimensions are much larger.

In order to get rid of constant fines from cameras, many of our readers successfully use Special Nano Film for numbers. Legal and 100% reliable way to protect yourself from fines. Having familiarized ourselves and carefully studying this method, we decided to offer it to you as well.

In any car, including the VAZ 2112, the ignition module performs one of the main functions in the ignition system (SZ) as a whole. Thanks to this unit, the optimal start of the motor is carried out, as well as its normal operation in the future. You can learn more about device malfunctions, as well as its replacement, from this material.

Before we talk about testing and replacing MZ in our VAZ 2111, let's figure out the basic information. First, we suggest finding out what the 2111 ignition module is and where it is located.

Read also: Honda fit DIY repair

As mentioned above, the MZ is one of the main devices in the ignition system. Of course, if you think about it, then all the components of the system are very important, since the quality of the power unit as a whole depends on them. But if this unit starts to work intermittently, then at least two cylinders, or even all four, will stop working in the engine. This is due to the fact that the module itself consists of two coils, with one of them supplying current to the first and fourth cylinders, and the second to the second and third. Accordingly, if one coil fails, it will lead to the fact that two cylinders will be inoperative, which will affect the operation of the motor as a whole.

The purpose of this device is that it converts the voltage supplied from the chopper into a high voltage signal. This impulse is accordingly applied to the cylinder plugs in a specific order. It is used to ignite the combustible mixture in the cylinders of the engine, which contributes to its normal starting and operation.

As for the location, it is not difficult to find the VAZ 2112 16 valve ignition module, it is located in the engine compartment. Open the hood and look at the spark plugs - they connect high voltage wires that go directly from the module itself. The MZ itself is a small black square box, so you cannot confuse it with anything else.

Only diagnostics will allow you to accurately determine the malfunction of the module, but there are indirect signs that can inform the car owner about a problem in the operation of the device.

In the event of a malfunction of the MH, an error is displayed on the dashboard.

So, in what cases is it necessary to replace or repair the VAZ ignition module:

Starting the powertrain has become more difficult. The driver now needs to turn the starter more to start the engine.
Engine idling has become erratic. The motor can be triple, while the speed can increase and decrease.
The power of the power unit as a whole has decreased. When you press the accelerator pedal, the car needs more time to accelerate. This symptom is especially evident when moving uphill. Also, when you press the gas pedal, dips can be observed - the driver presses on the gas, but there is no effect from this.
Fuel consumption has increased. Of course, it will be problematic to determine such a malfunction without a fuel consumption meter. But if you are used to refueling a certain amount of fuel for a certain mileage, then you can also recognize this sign (the author of the video is the Auto_Repair channel).

All these symptoms, as mentioned above, are indirect, since they can also appear with other malfunctions. For example, if the fuel filter is clogged or its service life has come to an end. Also, such signs appear as a result of wear on spark plugs or high-voltage wires. Therefore, if you are faced with such a problem, then first of all, you should diagnose the condition of the spark plugs, make sure that there is no carbon deposits on them, and also check the armored wires. It happens that one of the wires is simply poorly connected to the candle, or it is broken or worn out.

There are several options for checking the device with your own hands at home, we will consider the simplest one.

To make an independent diagnosis, you need to know what the wires connected to the module are responsible for:

red-blue - provides 12-volt power to the device;
the brown wire is a mass, it is usually connected to the car body;
white-blue - connects to the spark plugs of the first and fourth cylinders;
the red-gray wire connects to the spark plugs of the second and third cylinders.

Diagram of the VAZ module

First, you need to check with your own hands that all pulses are supplied to the ignition device 2112:

First of all, you need to turn off the ignition and disconnect the connector.
Further, the key in the lock must be set to position I.
Now you need a dial-up voltmeter, it must be connected to the negative terminal of the battery.
With the second probe, that is, a plus, you need to find the 12-volt contact on the connector.
When connected to a control contact, the arrow on the tester will show almost 0.
If the starter unit starts to work, the parameters may increase, but at the same time they will be no more than 0.7 volts. Note that the voltage level must be the same on both control pins.

There is another check option - you can diagnose the module's performance using a dial-up ohmmeter. In this case, it is a pointer tester that is meant, and not a digital one. First, you need to connect the device probes to pins 1 and 4 of the module, and then to pins 2 and 3. In the end, the diagnostics should show the same result.

Please note that depending on the manufacturer, these parameters may differ:

for devices manufactured by ATE-2 with the number 3705010-02, this parameter should be about 5-6 kOhm;
for SOATE modules with the number 3705010-12, the diagnostics should show 12 kOhm.

If the obtained indicators differ from those described above, then the module must be replaced. Please note that the inductance of the coils installed inside the MV is quite high, respectively, by connecting an ohmmeter, a spark can slip through. Therefore, when diagnosing, we strongly do not recommend touching the leads of the probes at the same time (the author of the video is HF Autoelectrician).

If checking the VAZ 2112 ignition module showed that the device needs to be replaced, then you can change the MZ with your own hands.

The replacement process looks like this:

The cost of the device directly depends on the manufacturer. For example, the price for a new MZ from the manufacturer SOATE is about 1,700 rubles. From the manufacturer BOSH the module will cost around 2 thousand rubles, and from General Motors - about 5 thousand rubles.

Important recommendations and features of diagnostics of MH in VAZ 2112 cars are shown in the video below (the author is the AutoElectrics Diary channel).

Repair of the ignition module vaz 2112

for cars of the VAZ -2110 family

When operating a VAZ 21102 car, after 15,000 km. run, I suddenly found an unusual malfunction: - from time to time the highest voltage on the 2nd and 3rd cylinders disappeared. All suspicions immediately fell on the ignition module.

It was decided to carry out "trepanation" and study, so to speak, the material part of the above-mentioned miracle of the automobile industry.

Take a screwdriver and tear off the aluminum plate.

That's it, done, what do we see there. Small printed circuit board with electronics. The board is covered with a thick layer of transparent silicone, which was carefully removed by us. So, the wires by which the board is connected to the contacts of the connectors and coils are made of soft aluminum or some other metal. “So this is where my death lurked” - these wires are rather flimsy and tear almost at a glance.

So during the autopsy, we successfully tear off all the wires from all contacts. Well, now let's get down to business. For repair we need

thin wires, preferably stranded. The wires from the broken "mouse" came in handy for this role. As I said, we remove the transparent silicone as well as the remnants of the white autosilicone.

Soldering module has been working for the second year.

Ignition module 2112-3705010-03 Two cylinders in operation, omissions ignition.In the meantime, let's take a look at our "giblets".As you can see from the photo, the circuit consists of two L497D1 switches from SGS-THOMSON and two powerful BU931 transistors.When soldering, it turned out that the contacts on the module are made of aluminum and soldering their business is not for the faint of heart, so it was purchasedspecial flux for aluminum.The desoldering technology is as follows:

first we solder the wires to the board. Moreover, it is advisable to remove the old wires from the board, although they are tinned better. Soldering the wires to the collectors of the transistors caused a particular difficulty - they are covered with some kind of metal that is difficult to solder. The bur-machine helped to strip the plaque of this metal to copper, but that's not all. When touched with a soldering iron, its heat was instantly dissipated on the aluminum plate. In order to properly solder, I had to put the entire plate on the electric stove and heat it up to 180 degrees.

then we solder the wires of the board to the corresponding contacts in the “womb” of the module, trying to make the wires as short as possible.

we cover the soldering points with some kind of varnish (I secretly took nail polish from my wife)

The result should be something like this.It is advisable to conduct general tests of the device for its performance before final assembly. THE MAIN RULE WHEN CONDUCTING THE TEST: - LET YOUR FEET IN THE SIDE OF THE EXPLOSION, THE AUTOMATIC UNDER YOURSELF TO DO NOT MELT :-)). If the device has shown its efficiency, then having coated the inner surface with auto-sealant, we produce the final assembly by tucking the wires inside the cavity so that they are not clamped by the plate to the edges of the cavity. Well, if the device does not work, then you will have to look for the malfunction more carefully. Perhaps this is a failure of electronic components, an open circuit or short circuit in the coils.In conclusion, for the "folk crazy" I want to say that the L497D1 switch costs about 3, the BU931 transistor - about 6.You can try to replace the transistor with the domestic KT848A, it is much cheaper, but its SIZES are impressive.Often, if the ignition module breaks down, the car owner immediately runs to the store and buys a new one. But, for the VAZ-2112 there is an alternative way - repair. Of course, without proper knowledge in auto electrics, it will be difficult to understand all the circuits and communications. This article will tell you as far as possible how to repair the ignition module with your own hands. Image - DIY repair of the vaz 2112 module

Before proceeding with the repair of the ignition module, it is worth figuring out what it consists of. So, let's consider the construction of this element:

Two ignition coils that generate a high voltage pulse.
Two-channel switch.

If there are problems with the operation of the ignition module, there are reasons for this. It is worth warning that during this malfunction the "Check Engine" warning lamp will not light up: engine shutdown, loss of spark, interruptions in the operation of the power unit, and more.

For diagnostics and repairs, basic knowledge is required not only in conventional electrics, but also in the principles of car electrics. Also, a successful process will require skills in using a digital multimeter.

Often, the high-voltage impulse disappears in 2 and 3 cylinders ... So, to start repairing the ignition module, of course, you will need to dismantle it. To do this, turn off the high-voltage wires and unscrew the node itself from the mounts. When the preparatory operations are completed, you can proceed directly to the repair process:

We tear off the aluminum plate.

Open the aluminum plate with a screwdriver

Wire soldering diagram and arrangement of elements on boards

Diagram of the assembled ignition module

Completely assembled ignition module

The video material will tell you about the repair of the ignition module, as well as how to remove it from the car.As it turned out, it is not so difficult to repair the ignition module on a VAZ-2112 with your own hands, it is enough to have basic knowledge in electronics and be able to hold a soldering iron in your hands, the rest is a matter of technology.Welcome!
The ignition module is one of the main devices that are included in the ignition system, although if you think about it, all devices (Parts) in this system are basic, for example, spark plugs, high-voltage wires, etc. But nevertheless, if one candle or one high-voltage wire fails, then the car will start to triple and drive very badly, but if the ignition module fails, then two cylinders or even four will stop working immediately, why two you ask? The thing is that in the module itself there are two so-called ignition coils, and so one of these coils supplies current immediately to cylinders 1 and 4, and the second immediately to 2 and 3, therefore, when one coil fails, the car will start to drive even worse , there will be an unstable idle speed and many other problems, we will talk about this in more detail below.

Note!
In order to replace the module on the car, you will need to stock up on the following set of tools, namely: Hexagon somewhere "5", as well as a basic set of wrenches (It all depends on the engine, since on some engines the module is fastened with nuts , and on some with the help of hex pins) and, if possible, with gloves, so as not to get your hands dirty while working!Summary:Where is the ignition module?
It is not difficult to find it, well, firstly, in order to find it, you need to know at least approximately its location, and its location is the engine. After you find out where it is located, open the hood of your car and pay attention to the spark plugs, wires will go from these candles, so look where these wires lead and after finding, you will see in front of you a small square-shaped box which called the ignition module, it is also shown in almost all the photos that are posted in this article.When do you need to change the ignition module?
Usually, when it fails, as mentioned earlier, some cylinders stop working and in this regard, the car starts to drive much worse, and also during acceleration, failures can be observed, for example, you pressed the pedal sharply and the car responds to it, and more idle speed will become unstable for you if this module fails.Note!
By the way, you can also use a special device to check whether your ignition module is working or not, for this you need to first purchase a special device and only then check it with it! (For more details on how to check it, see the article: "Replacing a module with a VAZ 2114" when you go to the article, do not pay attention to the title, because this module is checked on cars of the tenth family, as on cars of the Samara family, and even replaced identically)By the way, if suddenly everything is in order with the module, then you can try to ring the wiring that goes to this module and thereby you will understand whether it is working properly or not! (You will learn how to do this below)Note!
Before you go to a car shop for a new module, be sure to look at the markings on the old one, and in general remember for the future, almost all car parts have markings and therefore, before buying new parts, pay attention to the markings that are applied to the old ones and according to the same markings and buy new parts. So let's get back closer to the topic, the module also has some markings, so before going to the car shop, look at which ones and write them down on a piece of paper or elsewhere, and already in the store, put on your car a new module of exactly the same type as the old one module! Image - DIY repair of the vaz 2112 module

Withdrawal:
1) At the very beginning of the operation, although many car owners even neglect this, it is imperative to disconnect the "negative" terminal from the battery output, just so that suddenly a short circuit does not occur from moisture or from anything else, which could destroy the wiring in your car. (For how to disconnect the "-" terminal from the battery, see the article titled: "Replacing the battery" point 1)

2) Then grasp the high-voltage wires with your hand and disconnect all of them (there are four of them) from the module.

Note!
For clarity, in the photo above, the module has already been removed from the car, and just lies on the engine with wires connected to it!

3) Next, disconnect the block of wires from the module, to do this, just grab it with your hand and press the latch that you will find on this block with your hand at its bottom, and then simply remove this block and put it wherever it does not interfere.

4) Next, you have two ways, either remove the module together with the bracket (Sometimes this is done in order to get to any other parts, for example, to the drain plug of the coolant from the cylinder block) or remove it completely separately, this is more convenient, but in this regard, the bracket will not give access to other parts, in general, if you are replacing one module, then only remove it without the bracket, for this, find the nuts that attach the module to the bracket, by the way, these nuts can be of different types. it is they that can be of the type of hexagonal studs (in this case, you need a hexagon), so unscrew all these nuts and then remove this module from the bracket.

5) Now let's talk about if you need to remove the module together with the bracket, firstly we will warn you that the bolts that attach the module to the bracket are very inconveniently located and thus you will have to tinker a little with removal, but still for more detailed information to remove the module together with the bracket, see the article: "Replacing the module with a VAZ 2109", paragraphs 2-4.

Note!
Once again, we remind you that the module on cars of the tenth and Samara families is attached in the same way, so you can remove it both in this article and in the article the link to which is given just above in the last paragraph 5!

Installation:
The new module is installed on the car in the same way as it is removed, but only in the reverse order of removal.

Note!
By the way, when installing a new module, namely after it is installed, connect the wires to it in accordance with the cylinder numbers, otherwise your car may not start or work incorrectly!

There are marks on the high-voltage wires, and so on the module itself there are also marks, therefore, respectively, the number 3 on the wire is connected to pin 3 on the module, etc.

If your module is fully functional, then we recommend that you also ring the block of wires that is connected to it, who knows what can be done with the wiring, so watch how to ring this block carefully in the interesting video clip just below, oh yes By the way, as you have already noticed, in order to ring the wiring you need a device called "Multi-meter", so be sure to stock up on them, otherwise you will not be able to do anything.

Before talking directly about the restoration of ignition modules installed on the VAZ 2110, VAZ 2114, VAZ 2114, etc., it makes sense to recall the principle of operation of the ignition system used on these car models.

Traditionally, in the ignition systems of these vehicles, modules are installed, consisting of a two-channel electronic switch designed to control two ignition coils. As for the controller itself, it controls the ignition based on information about the current operating mode of the engine received from the corresponding group of sensors. Due to the fact that the engine cylinders are combined in pairs (1-4 and 2-3), the formation of a spark is created in two cylinders at the same time: in the cylinder at the compression stage - a working spark, and in a cylinder with an exhaust stroke - an idle spark. Below is a typical diagram of the VAZ 2110 ignition module, where the + 12V supply voltage is applied to the D contact, and the control signals from the controller are supplied to the A and B contacts.

Special mention should be made of the typical failures of the ignition module, which can manifest itself in a drop in engine speed when the accelerator pedal is pressed sharply, general loss of power, twitching of the car during acceleration, etc. As a preliminary diagnosis of the ignition module, a number of simple checks can be performed:

unscrew and inspect the candles - if the ignition module (MZ) provides a low sparking power, then there will be black carbon deposits on the candles;
disconnect the high-voltage wires from the МЗ and using an ohmmeter measure the resistance between the 1st and 2nd, 3rd, 4th terminals of the module. The readings should be in the range of 5.5 - 6.5 Kom. Too low resistance may indicate a short circuit in the secondary winding.

With this and other malfunctions, the ignition module must be replaced, however, practice shows that, in many cases, this far from the cheapest unit can be successfully repaired. To repair the ignition module, you must perform the following technological operations.

First of all, the aluminum plate located on the back of the module must be removed from the module. This can be done using an ordinary screwdriver, after holding the module in a vice. As a rule, the plate comes off without much effort. Along with it, rather weak wires connecting the transformer to the internal connector also come off (by the way, the low reliability of soldering these wires is the reason for most of the module's failures). Please note that some of the internal connections on the board are also made with very thin wires and you should be careful not to break them.

The internal volume of the module is filled with a jelly-like sealant, which can be easily removed with a brush with sufficiently stiff bristles. On the board itself, the main elements are clearly visible, namely two transistors, two switching microcircuits, as well as several resistors and capacitors.

As already mentioned above, most often breaks in the connecting wires between the module board and its case lead to a malfunction of the MH, respectively, and the repair will consist in restoring all electrical connections (with replacing the wires with more reliable ones).

It should be borne in mind that the internal contacts of the MZ are made of aluminum, therefore, to solder them, you should take care of the presence of a special flux in advance. A certain difficulty is soldering wires to the terminals of the transistors (the plate dissipates the heat of the soldering iron).

Be that as it may, but with some diligence and patience, soldering is quite possible and it is performed as follows:

First of all, the new wires are soldered to the board. It is better to completely remove old wiring. To facilitate soldering (excluding heat dissipation), the plate can be heated on an electric stove;
At the second stage, we solder the wires to the contacts of the module itself, trying to keep the connecting wires as short as possible;
We cover the soldering points with technical varnish;
After the varnish has dried, we check the repaired module for operability;
If the work of the MH does not cause any complaints, carefully fill the connecting wires inside its body and fasten the two halves of the device with ordinary sealant.

The ignition module repaired in this way is capable of operating for a very long time.

is it possible to repair the module 2112 and if yes then how and then it is expensive to buy

vryat whether it can be repaired, Toko replacement. Look in the selling section. I can change someone who will add something

I do not recommend repairing. For you need to be an electrician to understand this "crap". I had problems with the ignition module. I changed immediately! Didn't even try to conjure over him.

It is possible and necessary to repair, Google will tell you how.
Once a person asks, it means he understands, he asks how! And it is worthwhile for him to climb there at all - he will figure it out himself.

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Sailord 26 Mar 2009

Well, you know, God forbid that it is not right to "pick". Okay, if it was a “standalone” part. Brrr. Although it's his business. My only option is replacement. Although if a person has experience with this kind of technique, let it be. Automobile God to help him!

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Willy 26 Mar 2009

is it possible to repair the module 2112 and if yes then how and then it is expensive to buy

Guys, thanks for the participation of the topic, is that what I dug on the Internet lerus.php? Id = 65

Good luck with the repair! Unsubscribe how you will do everything! It’s very interesting whether it worked or not!

Kokda cat has nothing to do, he chases fleas. You can read ent / ign_repair /
But on a healed horse, far from yuedesh. Let you down at the most inopportune moment.

it's not a fact, modern spare parts are far inferior in quality to the old ones, but about the cat, you're wrong

Everything is correct, it can and should be repaired, 90% that it did not burn out, but simply broke off inside the wiring, which are made of tin and can hardly hold. as a rule, because of this, they fail.
I have repaired them several times already. The main thing is to arm myself with solder on aluminum, otherwise it will not last long, and so, I am more than sure that it will serve without problems and you can forget about it. In some topic I wrote a link, it is easily found through Yandex, description for the teapot. you just need to be careful not to tear off the short wires that go from the board to the uncased transistors.
and a new one can also fly.

nice to talk to the pros and when they are cultural

it's not a fact modern spare parts are far inferior in quality to old ones

+100. I am also often convinced of this, right now there is just a lot of marriage

The motor control system includes a wide variety of elements, each of which plays an important role.

In some situations, high voltage disappears on several or even one cylinder.The reason for this may be the ignition module on the VAZ 2110, or rather its malfunction.

It should be noted that the replacement of the ignition module for the VAZ 2110 may not be required. First, try to repair it, diagnose and fix the problem.

Structurally, the ignition module includes two main elements:

2 ignition coils that generate high voltage pulses directed to the spark plugs;
Two-channel switch.

The reasons for failure can be different, ranging from interruptions in the operation of the motor, ending with an unexpected stop of the power unit. Note that the Check Engine light does not come on.

Diagnosing a problem will not be a problem for you if you know a little about electrical engineering and know how to work with a device such as a multimeter. If not, we recommend that you contact a specialist. A professional check of the ignition module at the VAZ 2110 using a multimeter will give you the result you need and will answer important questions.

Do not rush to repair, since the problem may not lie in this element at all. Before checking the ignition module on the VAZ 2110, consult with professionals, arrange for an inspection of your car. This will take time and money, but it’s better to be prepared for trouble.

Quite often, short-term breakdowns occur in the system, which soon disappear. The engine check light does not register them, but they remain in the controller, are entered into its memory. If you try to consider the errors on the controller as a tester, it will not show anything, since there were problems, but now they are absent.We have already familiarized ourselves with the signs of a malfunction of the VAZ 2110 ignition module, and the reasons for such situations may be dirty contacts, poor mass attachment, electrical interference, and so on.So, for the VAZ 2110, the most common problem is the disappearance of voltage on 2 and 3 cylinders. After a while, the engine starts working normally again if you press the back plate of the module.It is not worth putting up with such a situation, it is better to immediately check the unit's operability, restore or replace it completely. Image - DIY repair of the vaz 2112 module

The procedure is quite simple.

Disconnect the negative lead from the battery.
Remove the plastic cover that covers the engine.
Remove the wires from the spark plugs.
Disconnect the wires from the ignition module. Their numbering is indicated on special white rings. And the cylinder number is indicated on the housing of the ignition module.
Disconnect the connector from the ignition module.
Using a 10 head, unscrew the three nuts that hold the block we are looking for.
Carefully remove it, after which you can proceed to further work.

Now let's go directly to working with the module:

Performing a similar repair of the ignition module on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands will not be difficult. But be careful, proceed carefully and consistently. Pay particular attention to the soldering process.If the cause of the malfunction lies elsewhere, then there is a high probability that the VAZ 2110 ignition module for 8 valves is better simply replaced with a new one. The search can drag on without giving any result. And the replacement of the element will completely solve the problem.We have already noted which switch and transistor are used when repairing the ignition module for dozens. The first costs about $ 3, while the second costs about $ 6. Image - DIY repair of the vaz 2112 module

Video (click to play).

Some craftsmen use a domestic analogue of the transistor - model KT848A ... It costs less, of course. But the problem is its lower quality and larger size, which complicates the repair process somewhat.

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