VIDEO
The main condition for a long service life of a mini-sink is prevention. Follow the simple rules for using the device, and you will not have to think about repairing it often.
Before we understand the reasons for the breakdown of sinks, let's first consider the variety of devices of this type. Different types of sinks are used depending on the needs of the user. The difference is in the way of operation and productivity. This range of high pressure washers needs to be described in more detail:
the main purpose of washing cars (cars, trucks), special equipment;
further in importance: washing of courtyards, workshops, building facades, using a high pressure extension hose;
the third function (for industrial devices) pumping out liquid from flooded places;
with the use of a special nozzle-brush, you can do sewage cleaning using a pipe cleaning kit;
By adding special tools, you can organize the foam treatment of various painted surfaces by using a jet tube with a nozzle.
There are several types of sinks:
household - this is the most acceptable equipment for cleaning dirty surfaces mechanically in any hard-to-reach places. The difference between domestic and industrial washes is only in their compactness and mobility, low weight and size, which allows you to enjoy the result of cleanliness yourself, to save time at home, in the country, in the garage.
with water heating - designed for organizing cleaning of hard surfaces by double washing (high pressure, hot water).
without heating water. For example: Karcher K2 minisink
autonomous - access to the power grid is not necessary, performance is provided by a powerful gasoline engine. For example: autonomous device Karcher HD 9/23 G of the Advanced series
After winter, car enthusiasts often face the problem of building up operating pressure in a car wash. It seems that the car wash is working (the engine is noisy), but the pressure of the jet is not enough for efficient operation. In such cases, most often the reason lies in the malfunction of the bypass valve.
But before repairing, you should rinse and clean the nozzles well. If the removal of contaminants did not help, then this means that the bypass is jammed, and it releases pressure into the return line, as a result of which, even after releasing the trigger of the gun, the pump continues to work forcing the water to circulate in a circle. To check, you can simply change the jet nozzle to a mud cutter, the problem remains, so we can safely proceed to the repair.
The essence of the repair is to flush the valve and its seat where it is inserted. To get to it you need:
- unscrew the protective external elements of the car wash
- dismantle the water intake pipe
- pull out the bypass valve with pliers
- we clean it from dirt and lubricate
- collect in reverse order
Usually, all repairs can take about an hour.
The Karcher 586 M plus model, after 7 years of trouble-free operation, once did not turn on at all. But it was used carefully, with an additional filter for water purification. She worked from time to time in her own warm garage, to wash her personal car, sometimes her friends' peppers, sometimes she was taken to the dacha to wash furniture. Officially registered in the garage society, for the use of technical water from the tie-in on a quarterly basis a certain amount is paid.
My 5xxx and higher series differs from the downstream ones in that the declared pump is made of an aluminum alloy-silumin, which, in theory, gives a great resource. Repair in the service did not inspire due to the lack of nearby authorized Karcher centers, and reading information on the Internet did not add optimism about the prices for repairs. It turns out better to buy a new sink, preferably the same as mine, or 520 M plus with a similar pump. As they wear out, you can throw over compatible parts and thus extend the life of the sink.
I believed that the reason is the wear of the parts, the period is already relatively long for the device. But the first thought is that something is wrong with the electrician, the contacts are likely to oxidize, the conductive track has worn off at the switch. Disassembly and visual inspection of electrical contacts remained. Along the way, at the same time, it was decided to tear the pump apart, rinse and lubricate all the parts.
In the internet found technical documentation with a diagram. The closest model turned out to be 593 M, it differs from mine only in two shampoo tanks. ... 33969.html
It is easy to figure out what is crammed in the motor and how
In fact, the reason later turned out was commonplace, it soured from deposits and the bypass valve jammed. The switch, when turning the toggle switch, pressed the rod with its lever and activated the motor. And all the electrical contacts turned out to be in order, as well as the capacitor checked by the tester. I post pictures, everything is clearly visible there.
Karcher disassembled:
Before disassembling.
The upper part is removed.
Pistons.
Eccentric drive shaft.
Upper half.
Here is the jammed stock.
Side view.
Disassembled.
All rubber bands are in good condition.
Valve.
Electrical switch box.
The capacitor is working.
Pusher rod.
The pump parts were placed in warm water with citric acid, then thoroughly rinsed and dried. The bypass valve was too tough for me, I could not make it out :( According to the scheme, two pins must be pulled out there, unscrew the plastic cap with a spout for supplying water to the shampoo, squeeze out the tongue and remove everything assembled. I decided to just pour WD-40 into the inner valve holes abundantly, let it rest for 2 days. After I developed the valve with pliers, I pulled and rotated the tongue by the nose :)
Since there is no original lubricant from Karcher, I picked up analogues for it. The assembly was carried out with the lubrication of all liners and sealing rubber bands with Litol-24. The joints of the body parts are lubricated with Abro sealant. In the motor, where the eccentric washer pushes the valve, it is advised to fill the motor semi-synthetic oil, up to half the height of the washer. Of course, after removing the old grease. I didn’t do it because there was enough factory lubricant so far, I picked it up from the walls and coated the springs and rods.
Everything was put back together and worked like new.
Last edited by Andiart on Dec 25, 2011 01:20 am, edited 2 times in total.
Make an application by phone 8 (499) 704-45-24 or through the form on the website.
Before leaving, the master will contact you, agree on a convenient repair time for you.
The wizard conducts free diagnostics, determines the cost and timing of the repair.
Equipment in good condition, warranty for work performed and spare parts up to 6 months.
The published cost of the work is for informational purposes, the final price of the repair may differ from the declared one (it is a public offer determined by the provision of Article 437 of Part 2 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation). The exact cost of the repair is determined by the master based on the results of diagnostics.
Prices do not include the cost of spare parts. The cost of replaced assemblies and parts is charged in addition to the cost of work.
Check the conditions and cost of departure / delivery with the dispatcher
Michael August 21, 2017, 18:05
Mini-washer Karcher 490M (2005), broke the inlet plastic fitting. Is repair possible? If so, what is the cost?
Administrator
Repair is possible at the service center. The cost will be determined based on the diagnostic results.
Elena 05 July 2017, 14:18
I need an anchor (rotor) for a car wash Nuter W165AR, Can I buy from you?
Administrator
Good day, Elena. The company does not sell spare parts.
Marina April 19, 2017 3:42 pm
Good day! Karcher washer switch does not work. Can it be replaced?
The SPI MultiService service center provides service for high-pressure washers, as well as diagnostics and repair of the Lavor high pressure washer.
This brand is undoubtedly of high quality and these pressure washers are commendable. However, if you use it frequently, your pressure washer may malfunction. In this case, we recommend that you do not engage in self-repair, but contact our service center.
We provide the following works on Lavor pressure washer refurbishment :
- Replacement and repair of the electrical part of the sink;
- Replacement and repair of the pumping part;
- Replacement of valves, oil seals, oblique washers, bearings;
- Repair and replacement of the hydraulic switch;
- Replacement of heating elements, heating elements, thermal protection;
- Repair and replacement of the high pressure washer engine;
- Replacement of the gun, tubes, nozzles, hoses;
- Repair of body parts, wheels;
- Repair of switches, regulators, control devices;
- Preventive work to extend the performance of the pressure washer;
All of the above works are performed on the territory of our own service center using original spare parts. After repairs, our customers receive a 3 month warranty for work and spare parts.
Learn more about Lavor pressure washer repair and cost Lavor sink repair you can follow this link.
Each owner of a mini-wash sooner or later faces the issue of maintenance or repair of the device - the reason can be both natural wear and tear of components and mechanisms, and non-observance of operating rules. In any case, the breakdown can overtake at the most inopportune moment, and then you will have to wait long enough for the masters to find the cause of the malfunction and eliminate it. In order to facilitate their work and bring the device back into action, we will provide you with a list of the most common breakdowns and their main causes - this will help you diagnose the malfunction on your own and significantly reduce the time required to diagnose the equipment.
The hose broke. This happens quite often and mainly due to oversight - it is enough just to take the hose "on the kink" or step on it, and the reinforced amplifier inside will crack.
Tightness is lost and pressure drops rapidly. It may well be that hard water with a large amount of impurities is to blame. Salts and other compounds that give sediment build up on the inner surfaces of the pressure washer in the form of a deposit and come off over time, causing mechanical damage to the pump.
Broken springs, valve, thrust washer or ceramic plungers. The first possible cause may be air leaks from a hose or plumbing. Under the action of the pump, air bubbles explode, and there are so many of these explosions that the sink begins to literally "pound", which damages its most vulnerable parts. The second reason may be a too rigid connection to the water supply - a solid hose does not suppress surges in the speed of the liquid at the time it is supplied to the device, and the entire water hammer (a sharp change in pressure) falls on the device itself, because of which some of its elements can simply "break".The third reason may be excessive outlet water pressure (for example, the norm for your device is 1-2 bar, but it has accelerated to 18 bar), which again can damage the internal parts.
Water "siphonite" through the stuffing box seals. Of course, this may be due to the natural wear of the oil seals, but if the device is new, then perhaps there were too many abrasive particles in the water. But even the smallest scratch can quickly develop into a large leak.
The recoil of the pistol when turned on has significantly decreased, and the water jet has become weaker. In this case, focus on the bypass valves, pressure regulator rubber rings and hose. Most likely, they are worn out and require immediate replacement.
The sink cannot reach full power when switched on. First of all, you need to clean the water filters (you can do this yourself) and check the tightness of all connections. Also, it will not be superfluous to bleed air from the device using the method specified in the instructions.
The device shuts down spontaneously after a short operation. Shutdown is triggered by thermal valve actuation, caused by overheating of the engine or too high temperature of the suction water. If the engine is normal and the water is cold, the thermal valve itself is most likely faulty.
The sink does not take water from the container, but it works properly from the water supply. It is very possible that the pump is simply airy, and you just need to remove all the nozzles and release the water until the stream stabilizes. It is also possible that the hose is too soft and shrinks during suction, blocking the path of water. In this case, it is enough to simply replace it with a more rigid one. It may also be that the filter on the inlet is clogged and does not allow water to pass through well - you just need to remove and rinse it.
The outlet pressure drops sharply. Most likely, the debris is to blame for this, since the wear of any parts of the apparatus decreases the pressure gradually, and only the blockage does this practically instantly. Most likely, solid particles and other debris are stuck under one of the discharge valves, in the seat of the check valve, in the injector or in the hose (gun) itself. But it is better not to disassemble the device in search of a problem, but give it to specialists - they will be able to remove even the most difficult mud plug without damage.
The electrician stopped working or there were serious malfunctions in her work. The reason may well be the elementary ingress of water during wear of the sealing gaskets. Moisture causes a short circuit that can burn the contacts, the magnetic starter, capacitors, or even the motor itself.
As you can see, there are a lot of problem situations, and their consequences can be quite deplorable, but now, knowing the main causes of breakdowns, you can notice them in time or even prevent them altogether, provided that you follow all the operating rules. If problems cannot be avoided, do not rush to send the device for recycling or repair it on your own - the services of specialists for the maintenance of mini-washers are not very expensive (much cheaper than buying a new sink instead of an irretrievably damaged old one). In addition, an official guarantee is given for their work, which means that you can be sure that the device will serve you for a long time.
We hope our tips were useful to you!
Sale. Selection. Installation. Rent. Repair. Guarantee. Quality. Reliability.
Car cleanliness is not only an aesthetic indicator, but also protects the product from negative environmental factors. After all, adhered and dried dirt can contain aggressive elements that damage the paintwork. Also, long-term and regular contamination of the body can lead to irreversible damage to the metal, up to perforating corrosion on individual elements.
In this case, regular visits to the car wash or home water procedures save the day.But in the second case, you need to buy a washing device or a car wash should be made with your own hands from improvised means. Prices in stores generally start at 5,000 rubles. The upper threshold may not stop at 20 thousand. Therefore, we will do it ourselves.
The main part of any water supply unit is a pump. For our product, it will need a powerful enough, capable of developing a pressure of at least 150 atmospheres. When choosing a ready-made pump, it is necessary to take into account the materials from which the working units are made.
Preference should be given to products with a high-strength metal or ceramic piston.
In this case, the block head is recommended to be selected from brass or bronze alloys. This design is more durable. Its resource between repairs is quite high. A flow rate of 15 l / min will be sufficient for the pump.
It is advisable to select an electric motor with a voltage of 220 V. Reliable start-up is ensured by an additional capacitor unit. Higher rpm will provide more productivity.
You need to know that a pump that is too high-speed with a high speed can lose power at maximum operating speed and is subject to intense wear.
Consumers of 2-3 kW and rotation up to 2000 rpm are considered optimal.
A do-it-yourself high-pressure washer designed must have the necessary safety elements in the chain to preserve important components. This link is the coupling that connects the pump and the motor.
It is advisable to install a coupling that can compensate for small axial misalignments between the shafts.
It is also possible to install a belt drive with one stage. This gearbox balances the speed and load between the motor and the pump. The gear ratio is selected based on the required output parameters in terms of rotation frequency.
The mini washer must be equipped with a sufficient water tank. A tank is suitable, which can be additionally powered from a permanent source of water: a water tap, a deep-water well, or a small water tower.
It is advisable to install coarse and medium filters at the inlet to the tank. So, unnecessary debris will not get into the pump and will not interfere with the operation of the entire system.
Car shampoo or other approved car cosmetics can be added to the main water tank. The process will be more efficient.
The capacity regulator is usually combined with an auto-unloading valve on the pump, which redirects the unused pressure back to the tank, reducing the load on the pump.
All units are mounted on a frame made of shaped or round curved pipes. Often a pair of wheels are attached to the lower pipes to help transport the unit. Also, stops for fixing and a handle are installed so that the entire structure can be moved.
The appearance of a do-it-yourself car wash
For a high pressure hose, you can use a plastic or rubberized reinforced hose. It is imperative to ensure the tightness of the joints using high-quality clamps or hydraulic sealing.
The structure must be collapsible and maintainable. Therefore, it is advisable to use threaded connections where possible.
Also, in places of contact with water (fittings, valves), low-corrosion alloys must be used: brass and bronze .
Direct water supply is carried out through a gun with a nozzle installed in it. It bears a visual resemblance to a pistol at a gas station. A stream of water is formed only after pressing the button. This method helps to save prepared working fluid with consumable additives. The pistol can simply be bought at any hardware store.
When operating, you must follow a few tips:
periodically it is necessary to inspect the connecting nodes and tighten the threaded connections with a wrench;
filters installed in the device need to be inspected before each connection so that the throughput does not decrease;
the electrical part must be grounded to avoid accidents during operation, for this, a cable with three copper conductors is used, and the plug must have a grounding terminal;
during the washing process, it is not necessary to fix the jet at one point on the machine body for a long time, so as not to damage the paintwork with a strong pressure.
The device for high-quality contactless washing is called a foam generator. With its help, you can completely envelop the machine with small bubbles of washing suspension and carry out a high-quality cleaning of the surface from dust, dirt and adhering small particles.
Foaming process with a home foam generator
A DIY foam generator can be made even in the garage. You need to be patient and prepare all the nodes and elements.
The device performs two main functions during the car wash process:
formation of fine-cellular foam from prepared reagents;
uniform application of foam to the desired surface of the vehicle.
To carry out this process, a stream of water mixed with car cosmetics (shampoo or other specialized preparations) is sprayed with an air stream passing through the installed channels, and together they form a coarse foam.
The mixture is then passed through a foaming tablet block. Now this mass can be applied to the surface.
The flow control plates provide a fine spray jet to distribute the working foam to all the unevenness of the exterior of the body.
The quality of work of a professional wash using a foam generator can be higher than when using a device made by yourself. For this, there are several criteria that determine the final result.
The main parameter is the size of the formed foam. An important characteristic is the homogeneous structure and the minimum bubble diameter.
When using professional washes, specialized industrial shampoos are used.
Also, professional equipment allows you to pump significantly more fluid pressure than that which can be achieved in a garage. This reduces the consumption of cleaning materials.
But with all these factors, the result of self-cleaning turns out to be quite worthy, especially since the final price for one session speaks in favor of a home-made device.
The manufacture of a foam generator will require the creators to stock up on a set of keys, a grinder, a pre-purchased repair kit with spare parts for a professional installation, consisting of a nozzle, a pistol, a compressor, and a flushing hose.
In addition to the listed elements, it is necessary to take an inch pipe with a length of about 70 cm. You will need to make a filter from it. To do this, fill the cavity with pieces of fishing line. It is advisable to use it of different diameters, so the foam will form more efficiently.
After stuffing, you will need to install metal filters on both sides to avoid pieces of fishing line getting into the container with shampoo.
The principle of operation of the foam generator
Further, threaded plugs are placed on both ends of the pipe. Now a T-junction is screwed to one of the plugs. A compressor is screwed to such a transition, and a hose from a liquid reservoir is screwed onto the second thread. The free end of the line will be the foam outlet. A hose for spraying ready-made foam is attached to it through a fitting.
You need to know that the quality of the formed foam depends on the quality of the stuffing in the tube with the fishing line.
You can achieve the desired result by changing the packing in the tube with line. It is also allowed to empirically select the required length of such a pipe and the texture of the fishing line.
Video (click to play).
VIDEO