DIY moccasin repair

In detail: DIY repair of moccasins from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

With all the abundance of repair shops, some consumers still prefer to repair their shoes on their own. This is due to distrust in the work of some craftsmen, with the high cost of the services of others. It seems that when a shoe has served for several years, it will be cheaper to throw it away and buy a new one than to repair it. However, the materials are usually inexpensive, and craftsmen can do shoe repairs with their own hands and bring the pair back to its original form.

Someone generally follows the path of least resistance and prepares the grasping mixture on their own. So for repairing shoes, acetone with nylon fabric is useful - after degreasing, this product begins to have excellent adhesive properties. If a person works in any kind of production, he can use rubber glue, but a very high temperature is required to start the reaction, as in manufactories it is activated only in special stoves.

The most common superglue can also help, but in this case, the shoes being repaired must be dry and clean. The substance itself is carefully applied to one side, heated with an industrial hair dryer or stove on the other, and the boot is carefully glued. True, molecular glue is not used everywhere in workshops, because it is not at all elastic, although it sticks tightly and quickly. If something is not done correctly, it will be too problematic to tear off part of the leather or sole to re-glue the boot.

A special adhesive solution for shoes will greatly simplify the task. Usually, Shoe repair in the workshop they are performed using dismakol and nairit. There are different variations of these compounds with different additives, depending on which the cost of the product changes. Rapid is also often used, but this glue, as a rule, is sold only in bulk, therefore, it is not at all suitable for a single DIY repair.

Video (click to play).

The semi-pair is placed on a metal foot or similar rigid fixation device. Finished heels with an internal nail-pin are placed on thin pins for greater stability. If necessary, the stud must be sharpened to the diameter of the heel sleeve, or vice versa, expanded with hammer blows, then apply a drop of superglue and instantly hammer the heel into the pin. After that, it is necessary to grind the material on a sharpener with a stone, or using a drill, aligning it with the thickness of the heel. This procedure is rather complicated, it is better to contact professional shoe repairmen in order not to spoil your favorite pair.

Installing heels on a wide heel with your own hands is a little easier. Plastic heels can also be glued with super glue by preheating the material well. The hot polyurethane will instantly “grab” the substrate and eliminate the need to hammer in nails the old fashioned way. A special shoe glue is applied to leather, wooden heels - nairit, always on both sides! After waiting for a while, it is necessary to firmly press the planes to each other and fix.

Any chemical agent requires correct application: both the appearance of the boots and the service life after repair depend on the sealing technology. It should be remembered that it is very difficult to apply a uniform thin layer of glue without drips at home, especially when it comes to the inside of the boots. Repair of shoe soles in a workshop implies the presence of the necessary tool, however, in some cases, you can do with improvised means.A prerequisite for a competent shoe repair is the activation of an already dried glue crust about ten to twenty minutes after application. The parts to be glued are heated with a hairdryer or held over an electric stove, after which they are tightly connected to each other.
Then the boots should stand in a warm room for a day - only after that operational strength will be achieved. If you start wearing shoes right after the repair, there is a great chance that the glued part will simply fall off.

When repairing the sole with your own hands, you still have to use a professional solution - nairite, which is suitable for combining leather, suede fabrics with the sole of shoes. The moment that housewives like to use in such cases will not work. Our workshop is often contacted after an unsuccessful attempt to use the glue-moment, which of course does not help to glue the sole. It has to be removed with a solvent, the surface must be degreased, which takes additional time and money.

LET'S REPEAT BASIC RULES:

With “Super” glue you can connect only fixed areas (for example, heels);
The shoe mortar must be applied to both surfaces to be glued, after which it dries for 15 minutes;
It is necessary to use an industrial hair dryer or a stove for strong heating of the material when installing heels;
It is necessary to firmly press the parts to be glued and fix it firmly within a minute.

If the sole of your shoes has burst, and the warranty period for the product has already expired, then it is most correct to refer the shoes to an experienced craftsman. In many cases, professional renovation allows you to extend her life from a month to a whole season, and sometimes even more. We already know how to get rid of the smell in shoes - folk remedies that are always at hand will help solve this problem. And how to repair shoes with your own hands with the help of available tools, we will now tell you.

To fix a cracked sole at home, you will still need to acquire the following materials and tools:

boot knife;
emery cloth;
degreasing agent;
quick-drying glue;
boot hook and thread.

Is express repair possible in this case? If the shoes being repaired are without a protector, with a flat sole, then they can be repaired with their own hands and put on the same day. This is done like this:

When sewing, more than one stitch should be sewn. This is necessary both in order to press the walls of the crack even more tightly, and so that the upper layers of the thread protect the former from possible damage in contact with a rough surface, for example, pebbles, glass, etc.

Done - the cracked sole has been removed and the shoes are ready to be worn.

If your shoe has a sole with a protector, then do-it-yourself express repair is impossible, because here you will have to put a sole on the sewn crack, which shoemakers call "prevention", and work with glue all over the sole. You will additionally need:

outsole material;
special shoe glue;
heating device - a powerful hair dryer or electric stove.

The algorithm of actions is almost the same as in the first method, but first you need to cut the tread from the broken sole to make it even and facilitate access to the crack.

After that, follow all the same steps from 1 to 5, except that when sewing a crack, in this case, one layer of stitching will be enough, since additional protection will be glued on top of it.

Important: Do-it-yourself shoe repair with construction glue or universal "Moment" is impossible - these funds are completely inelastic. Shoemakers recommend using Dismakol and Nairit adhesives. They may have other trade names, but their composition does not change, and this is what the shoe masters call them. The former is more suitable for rubber and polyurethane products, and the latter is more suitable for leather products.

Draw a pencil around the sole of the product to be repaired on the outsole and make a pattern.This material should be thick enough to compensate for the thickness of the tread you cut from the outsole.
Apply a suitable adhesive to the outsole and the degreased inner side of the outsole. Without gluing, withstand it for 15 minutes. Then apply a second coat and wait another 15-20 minutes. Then you need to activate the glue, heating it with a hair dryer or stove to 70-80 degrees.
While still hot, the outsole should be firmly pressed against the sole, preferably with a hard object.

That's it, DIY shoe repair is complete and the shoes are saved! But you can wear it only a day after the repair - then the glue will finally adhere and dry.

Through creativity - to a life mission

AUTHOR'S WORDS MK! Finally, a miracle happened and I completed the pattern of moccasins, which were published in the post:

Now we take graph paper, cut out a 70x40 piece (this is for 39 shoe sizes). We put our insole on the paper, aligning the line on the paper with the line on the insole. We circle the insole and re-pin all of our points. Add one more point - this is the point of the end of the little finger. We number the points according to the figure.

Next, draw a line from point 2 to the right parallel to line 7-4.

From point 2 upwards, lay a perpendicular equal to 5 cm and set point 2 *.

We connect a straight line point 2 * and 1.

Now we will measure the perimeters of the curves. To do this, we take a centimeter tape or curivimeter.

We spread a centimeter from point 2 to point 3, write down the value on a piece of paper, then from point 3 to point 4, write down, from point 4 to point 5, from point 5 to point 6. We got 4 data. We put all the data in sequence, as they went on the insole, on our line and mark them with the corresponding numbers. Here they are clearly:

Next, we draw perpendiculars up from the obtained points with the following parameters:
from point 3 up 5 cm - point 3 *;
from point 4 upwards 5.5 cm - point 4 *;
from point 5 upwards 5 cm-point 5 *;
from point 6 upwards 5 cm-point 6 * and extend this line a little further, a little more than 2 times. We connect the resulting points to each other. Here's what happens:

Let's move on to building the valve. Extend straight line 2-6 to the right by 14.5 cm. From the point obtained, lay up a long perpendicular.

Now you need to use tracing paper from the drawing to translate the insole and the beginning of the sidewall. Plus points 2 and 6. For clarity, you can connect them with a line. We glue it on thick paper and cut it along the contour. I already had a test piece made of thin cardboard. Here's a template:

We take a sheet of blank A4 paper and wrap our leg as shown in the picture below. We knead the line of the edge of the track well. The paper should fit as tightly as possible against the stack.

Mark 14.5 cm upwards with a centimeter tape in the center of the foot. Moreover, the beginning of the tape should start from the edge of the footprint.

Without removing the wrapper from the leg, we step on the template made above. We try to get exactly on the trail of the template. Now project points 2 and 6 onto the sides of the wrapper. We take a measuring tape and put it on the resulting points on the wrapper, right on the leg. We connect the line along the tape.

Now we unfold the wrapper and cut it with petals a little before reaching the crease. We apply again tightly to the foot and draw a line with a soft pencil on all sides. Like this:

Cut out the resulting valve sweep along the resulting edge and along the upper edge of the valve. Again we take our template, stand on it, apply the valve (do not confuse the inner and outer sides - mark in advance) and press the side of the template tightly against the valve. We draw the outline of the template on the valve.

Here's what you should get:

Cut off the valve along the outlined contour. We put the valve on our drawing along the line from point 6 upwards - the upper edge of the valve. The inner side of the valve is adjacent to point 6. Clearly:

We draw the outline of the valve.
Round the corners.

The moccasin drawing is ready. Cut it out:

We take cardboard and glue the drawing on it, cut it out.

Using nail scissors, we make nibbles at points 3, 4, 5, 6 on the insole and on the side, respectively.

I advise you to be sure to sew one moccasin sample from a dense, unnecessary piece of fabric. I came across a dense coarse calico under the arm. We put the pattern on the fabric, circle it and mark all the cuttings made. We DO NOT carve on the fabric!

It is enough to make a half-pair. In the process of sewing, first fasten the insoles and sidewalls along the outlined cutouts, and then sew with threads. Here's my half-pair turned out. Do not rush with your made moccasins - I sewed very quickly, so the seam is not a fountain))))) To see how it will look for the other leg, turn the moccasin out and put it on the other leg.

Ethno style is back in fashion. Fashion houses offer a modern interpretation of traditional Indian shoes - moccasins. This is a practical, comfortable piece of clothing, it is very versatile, suitable for both informal casual and classic style. Elegant, patterned models perfectly complement the delicate and feminine image, without requiring the daily torment from its owner when walking in heels. Simpler models will emphasize efficiency or a sporty lifestyle. It is also interesting that do-it-yourself moccasins can be made at home. How exactly - we will tell you in this article.

Traditionally, these shoes were made from buffalo or bison leather, and later from deerskin. Shoes were decorated with embroidery, beads, beads from natural materials. The decor had a sacred meaning, could symbolize, for example, the wings of a bird.

Here are the options that were and still are:

Navajo, Apache. A hard sole with a toe turned up was sewn for the plains, protecting the feet from sharp stones. Fashionable shoe designers have adopted this design and turned this functional technique into a piece of décor.
Cherokee, Comanche. For walking on a soft forest floor, shoes were designed that tightly wrapped the foot. As a rule, such moccasins were made from a single piece of leather, sewn in the center.
Comanche, Apache, Arapaho, and Wichita women wore high moccasins that fully protected the leg.

Important! The leather for high boots and soft slippers was preliminarily smoked over the fire, making it more durable. Then they were dyed with natural dyes and sutured using animal tendons instead of threads.

Since 1946, Minnetonka Moccasins has launched modern Indian tribal footwear for travelers. And then moccasins migrated to the wardrobe of fashionistas all over the world. Currently, the soles of shoes are made of rubber, and thick leather is used only for sewing luxury shoes. The appearance has also changed - modern moccasins are often made with laces, the skin of exotic animals is used, and the traditional ocher colors have been replaced by bright colors.

Important! Moccasins are summer shoes, they are not worn in the off-season with warm raincoats and sweaters.

Sewing requires good tools to make the job easier:

Shoe soles made of rubber, rubber, leather or latex.
Threads. Tendons and natural fibers are traditionally used, but modern materials are superior in strength. Waxed nylon threads are the best in sewing. For decoration, take a floss or wool.
Pliers. The needle will get stuck while sewing, so additional tools are not superfluous.
Glue. He will help with building a pattern and for temporarily fixing parts.
Lining material. If a warmed version is being sewn, then you can make a lining of thin fleece.
Leather. Thin for the bootleg, thick for the soles.
Needles, awl.

You can use old shoes or clothes both for sewing and for decorating boots.

Shoes such as moccasins are sewn with their own hands according to the patterns of authentic boots or according to modern, more complex patterns. A pattern can consist of 1 or more parts. There are models, which are a piece of leather with cuts, which is wrapped around the leg, secured with stitches.But for such shoes it is necessary to take measurements.

Important! Moccasins are good precisely because they are sewn along the leg, taking into account all the features of the foot. This means that the shoes are as ergonomic, lightweight and comfortable as possible.

You can use professional pads for making patterns. But the best option is to make all the measurements yourself:

First, the contour of the foot is removed, the toes are marked, the rise of the foot.
Then a toe is formed with paper, wrapping the foot with paper, tape.
On the basis of the measurements taken, a working template is built, with the exact dimensions of the foot.

Important! Correctly taken measurements are a guarantee of comfortable shoes, so do not neglect this stage in sewing, do not save time using standard patterns.

These boots are made from a single piece of leather based on a standard pattern that fits over the foot.

Important! Such moccasins with your own hands at home can be made from felt, then you get comfortable slippers.

Here's what you need in your work:

graph paper;
scissors;
pencil;
glue stick;
ruler, square, measuring tape or curvimeter;
cardboard and plain paper;
awl;
threads.

Manufacturing begins with precise measurement of the leg. Cut the insole from a piece of cardboard. We put our right foot on the paper and, holding the pencil strictly perpendicular, outline the outline.

Important! If this is an outdoor shoe, wear a thick sock to provide extra comfort.

Important! Before starting work with leather, make a test shoe from a thick fabric. Then try it on on your right and left legs, turning it inside out.

This is a simpler model, on the basis of which you can sew moccasins for children and for the home.

Here's what will come in handy in your work:

a piece of leather 50 * 40 cm;
scissors;
needle and thread;
for patterns - paper, cardboard, ruler, pencil.

Draw a circle around the left and right legs on the cardboard.
We put marks L and R on the corresponding template - so during work you will not confuse the patterns for each leg.
Mark with a pencil the highest point of the instep of the foot.
Divide this line in half, postpone the line from the center to the heel, extending it another 2.5 cm beyond the contour. The result is a marking in the form of the letter T.
Let's draw the lines so that the tips of the thumbs, touching the nails and phalanx, are in the center of the bar T, and the index fingers are looking at the top of the foot.
Draw a line along the ribs of the palms. You will get a triangle with toes at the top and heel at the bottom.
Cut out the pattern by rounding the edges of the shape.

Important! Do not forget that the pattern should be 2.5 cm longer from the heel side, and 18 mm from the toes.

Let's make a pattern for the other leg.
Cut out the foot from the pattern, glue it to cardboard.
We transfer the pattern to the skin, cut out the insole.
Sew the upper and the sole. The thread should be of sufficient length to sew the boot without knots.
Attach the insole to the triangular piece of leather and grind off the details, starting from the side of the toes. You should have a seam running along the side of the sneaker.
We move in a circle, overcasting the edge and go to the back. Having sewn it up, we sew the other half and return to the seam on the socks.

Important! For beauty, leave more skin for the side seams and, bending it inward, overcast with a thick thread.

With scissors, cut a 2-2.5 cm section in the part of the ankle to the point of intersection of the previously outlined lines. This will be the tongue of the moccasin.
Sew the second shoe in the same way.

Important! Decorate the finished pair with leather fringe from a strip of leather and beads.

These ankle boots are made according to the modernized pattern of traditional moccasins of the Salish tribe - Canadian Indians. They can be made not only from leather, but also from felted wool. The seams only pass from the outside, which makes sewing easier:

Let's take measurements from the leg, as described above.
On paper, mark the width of the foot in the metatarsal area as AA1. Set aside this segment again and mark with point B. It turns out that the insole is folded 2 times.
Mark the thumb bone as M1 and the tip of the index finger as M.
Draw a perpendicular from point A to point L, mark its end as X. Draw segment XL. Likewise, put the point X1 on the second part of the piece.
From the heel, we postpone a segment of 2 cm and denote it as L.
Fold the paper along LM so that A and B are folded.
Cut out a pattern from L through M and M1
Transfer the open insole to the leather and cut it out.
Build the boot from points L1 to J and K. Its length is equal to half of the LM segment. The JK segment is 50 cm.
Mark the tongue of the boot with a dotted line so that it is longer than JK. To make it shorter, it won't fold. Approximate dimensions: width 6.3 cm, length 15.2-20 cm.
Fold the parts face-in and sew from M1 around the circumference to X and X1.

Important! While sewing, check the dots for coincidence so that the moccasins are straight.

Form the heel and sew on the bootleg. The top of the boot is 15 cm wide and 12.5-15 cm longer than the LM segment. For children's ankle boots, height 7.5-10 cm.
Sew on the tongue and sew on the strings.

Important! Based on this pattern, you can sew moccasins of a different size by increasing it.

In the end, you will get these moccasins.
This is one of the moccasin options. Even more loafers.
In order to sew moccasins we need

Pads of the appropriate style and size
Suitable skin
Cork
Threads of two types
Plantar skin
Plantar rubber
Clay Nairit
Wax

Tool:
Hammer
Nails
Cutting knife
Skewer knife
Jamb knife
Awl
Punch
Punch for stitching
Needles
Lingering pliers
Emery
Sandpaper
File
Glass (for scraping)
Masking tape
Leather marking pen

Minimum set of tools

Hammer
Nails
Stationery knife
Awl
Pliers
Needles
Sandpaper
Masking tape

Who does not know - the pads look like this

It is necessary to glue the block with masking tape

Then we draw our moccasin right on the block

Carefully cut off the excess tape, cut at the seams, peel off from the block and glue it onto a sheet of paper.

The following picture is from a different pair of shoes, but the principle of obtaining a template is the same.

Take a closer look - on the heel and in the toe area, I had to make cuts in order to unfold the volumetric pattern on a plane. When you work with fabric, you have to sew these cuts in the future. The leather stretches well, so the shoe has minimal seams.

Cut out the templates taking into account the seam allowance - in our case - in the toe area, add 5-7 mm along the edge. The right and left legs are mirrored. To obtain a template for the other leg, simply turn the template over to the other side.

The two main details of moccasins

The next stage - from the seamy side, you need to trim the place where the top and moccasins are sewn.

On a smooth hard surface, cut off a part of the leather with a squared knife so that the width of the cut is about 8-10 mm, and at the edge of the part, the thickness of the leather is minimal. As a result, we achieve two goals - it is easier to sew and the top seam does not look too rough and thick.

With a punch (or awl) we make holes with the same pitch

We make exactly the same number of holes in the lower part of the moccasin, only the pitch of the holes will be larger. But you can do it later.

We mark the heel seam and sew the heel joint to joint

We cut out a heel from a different leather color, a toe and a decorative insert. Sew on

We cut out a strip of leather one and a half centimeters wide - it will cover the edge of the moccasin.
First we sew on the outside of the moccasin

We wrap the strip inward and sew with the second seam

Since my skin is thick, I wet the strip beforehand to make it softer.

Look carefully - the inside is lined with leather lining for 2/3 of the moccasin. Some manufacturers do not put it, but for this it is necessary that the heel suture is very neat and does not rub the heel.I put a lining on just in case.

The next important point is the inner insole and the inner part of the moccasin upper.

On the upper part of the top of the moccasin, we glue a piece of leather from the inside out, it can be tough. This is so that the top does not stretch over time. You can sew along the edge with a thread.

The half insole is cut out of the plantar skin; in the future, we glue the heel of the moccasins to it.
Then you can go in several ways. One of the options is to sew on the top of the moccasin, attach the half insole to the last, soak the moccasin, pull it over the last, and tighten the heel over the nails.
I collected it differently - I soaked the heel of the moccasin, tightened it, let it stand for three days, then took it off the shoe, attached the half insole and tightened the moccasin with a new glue.

When we tighten it on the glue, we do it in two stages, first we glue the lining, then we carefully cut off the entire wavy part of the skin with a knife, glue the main part of the skin and cut off the waviness again. We glue a piece of cork into the inner hole and grind it flush with the main skin with a file (or knife).

Sew on the top of the moccasin, soak the moccasin, pull it over the shoe and let it dry for a couple of days.

We cut out the soles from the plantar skin and pass it on both sides with emery or sandpaper.

We also cut out the "heels"

We sand the bottom of the moccasin well and glue it with a leather sole and a "heel"

We glue the rubber to the sole, carefully cut off the excess with a knife, sand the butt end of the sole, ideally, we cycle it with glass for smoothness. Apply wax to the end of the sole.

Cut out the decorative strap and sew it to the top of the moccasin

We circle the last, with a small allowance we cut out the insole. For 2-3 iterations, we cut off the excess and insert into moccasins (you can stick it)

This is what happened.

Such moccasins can be worn both in the tail and in the mane for 5-7 years.

Not to say that I am a stingy man, but I am sorry to throw out the old thing and buy a new one, if the old one can still be worn out by fixing it a little. And with shoes, respectively, the same situation. My shoes wear out very quickly, the heels are mostly erased.

I scored at first, but no one sees inside. Then it became uncomfortable to wear.

It's a pity to throw it away, it looks like new (well, almost), but worn from the inside.

I decided to try to repair it myself, if I spoiled it, it would not be too bad.

- How to replace the worn fabric, I chose leatherette.

- Foam rubber (I also rubbed it to the base) It turns out 2 types, thin ((1-1.5 mm) is optional) for the spacer and thick 8-10mm for replacing the backdrop.

- Threads (preferably in the color of the product) with a needle.

- Scissors or a utility knife.

- Glue. I used glue for foam rubber, VB - 103, red, it costs about 250 rubles per liter, dries quickly enough, holds tight.

First, let's shred everything into pieces.

Foam rubber and a rag that has seen life.

We will prepare what, in fact, we will change them.

Cut out leatherette to size.

And foam rubber. I took a tighter, secondary, it seems called.

I glued thin foam rubber to leatherette, but this is not important, you can do without it. I also sewed threads on the sides, because they will not be covered.

We begin to sew the whole thing into place. Leatherette is less elastic than fabric, if you just start sewing in a circle, the joints will not converge (how else to call it?) Therefore, we will align the piece and attach it in several places with threads so that it does not go to distortion.

We are stitching. Sometimes it's hard, use a thimble or pliers as a last resort. If there was a sewing machine, it would be easier. But she's not there. My grandmother, her health, taught her how to use it. Probably wanted a granddaughter =)

We asked for it, we turn it out, we look at what a fucking fellow we are. But this is only half the battle.

We glue the foam rubber. First, you need to glue it with its end to the top of the backdrop and then lower it down and glue it. This will create a slight bevel and bulge to secure the heel. Something like that:

But this is also not necessary, you can simply glue it, the heel itself will take shape as you walk. But this is better.

Next, we glue the leatherette to the base, pulling it a little. Don't overdo it with glue.

And we sew where there were factory seams.

This is how it was and how it became. It took a whole evening for one sneaker and fingers worn out from the needle.

Thank you for your attention! I hope it will be useful to someone.

Especially for Pikabu and my followers, neighbor hater and aspiring Stasique renovator.

DIY sole repair

Joomla 2.5 templates here:

What to do if the sole is worn out, cracked, cracked, the sole is broken, shoe repair. sole repair, how to fix the sole? repair the sole, install prophylaxis on shoes, change prophylaxis on shoes, replace prophylaxis on shoes, how to put prophylaxis on shoes, the sole is worn out - read and see here! Repairing a fractured or cracked (burst) sole is no fantasy!

I did it without duplicates, cut it off, just a little. A very reliable option. By the way, if the outsole is intact, but worn out, frayed, this is the “prevention setting”. The fact is that the relief (tread, pattern) at the sole is different.

B is shown, one might say, smooth. It was not difficult to align it. What to do when the sole is "bumpy"?

In this case, we do not grind the entire sole, but only the place where it is necessary to sew with threads and glue the prophylaxis. You don't have to grind it, but carefully cut it off with a sharp knife and clean it with a coarse "sandpaper", there will be less dirt around. It is imperative to sew! If you just glue the "break", and on top of prevention, then it will not last long, prevention will also crack. It is advisable to tighten the threads tighter, but if they cut the sole, then catch the “golden mean”, that is. do not overdo it If the sole is covered with cracks, then sew only the largest ones, the smallest ones - leave. 5

One of the common problems with shoes is a cracked sole. When cracks appear in it, the use of an overlay is not always effective, so a solution must be sought elsewhere.

In order to repair shoes with your own hands, you will need the following tools: First, you need to clean the sole of the dirt and sand the resulting crack with sandpaper. To degrease the surface, wipe it with acetone or gasoline. The next step is to cut the edge of the sole around the crack to a width of 5-7 mm.

The depth of the cut is 1mm. Once again, measure the depth of the crack itself in mm, and add another 15mm to the result. Cut a strip from your bike tube that will fit your result, and sand and degrease the strip as well.

Spread the strip with glue on both sides in such a way that on one side the glue covers the entire surface, and on the other side it remains 5-7 mm dry. Pick up the shoes that need to be repaired and bend them in half so that the existing crack opens up to the maximum. ... Holding the boot in this position, apply glue to the damaged area of the sole and leave it to dry for 10-15 minutes.

Please note that you do not need to close the crack, otherwise it will simply stick together. The final step is to apply a strip of rubber. Fold it in half and place it gently in the crack. And only after that you can straighten the shoes.

Press the edges of the strip firmly to the sole and put the shoes under any load for a day. After such repair and with further proper use, your shoes or boots will serve you for a long time. Another option for restoring the sole is to fill the crack with molten nylon. To do this, the shoes are cleaned of dirt and dust, the defective place is also cleaned with sandpaper and degreased with acetone.

Run a heated soldering iron along the inner surface of the crack. This heat on a leather or rubber surface will cause it to bubble and become sticky.

Use a small piece of nylon by placing it over the crack and pressing down with a soldering iron. Now you can rub the melted nylon into the damaged sole. This simple procedure must be carried out until the damage has completely disappeared. Please note - you only need to straighten the melted nylon with the handle of a soldering iron.

loading. Again, I want to tell you how you can save money. This time we will focus on DIY shoe repair. For this you only need hands - 2 pieces.

Moreover, the hands growing from a normal place, and not from where they grow from the Lada car manufacturers. You also need a head, preferably sober, in which there is at least a little imagination.

And if you have a problem with the latter, you are presented with a detailed photographic instruction for repairing shoes with your own hands. If the soles of your shoes have become unusable, do not in any case try to throw these shoes away.

You can also make such running boots from it that they will serve not only you, but also your children. To repair shoes with your own hands, you need a car tire. To make the repairs completely economical, the tire can either be found at a landfill, or be contacted by a neighbor.

Only so that he does not notice you, because in this case you are threatened with proceedings not only with your neighbor, but also with the cops, which is very painful and unpleasant, you really believe me. After you have got hold of the tire, with a dexterous movement of your hand, cut off the layer of the desired width and length.

Then, using super glue, glue a piece of the tire over the sole and cut off the excess. Everything, boots-runners are ready.

What does shoe sole repair have to do with construction? The most direct thing is that you can't build much with bare feet. Therefore, work shoes can be safely called a tool that, like a hammer drill, sometimes needs to be repaired.

Quite often, used shoes are sent to the trash can, although they can still serve as work shoes. After all, appearance is not so important for her, the main thing is that she be comfortable and warm. After a couple of seasons of intensive use, the soles of winter fur boots were slightly washed out, and it became a little uncomfortable to walk in them for a long time.

Throwing away a rather sturdy pair of leather shoes, for some reason, my hand did not rise. Casting aside the last doubts, he boldly tore out the cardboard insoles from the shoes, especially since they were glued only along their perimeter. In most modern shoes, the soles in the inner part look like vertical cells formed by thin cast partitions that serve to cushion when walking. Over time, from the load, the walls of the cells are crushed, and the heel and toe collapse, which causes inconvenience during movement.

Thank the old boots for their faithful service and buy a new pair. Send the boots to the repair shop for a complete replacement of the soles. Repair the soles yourself using straight hands and a simple tool.

This is not the first time I have chosen the third option. An hour of work and in the hands of practically new shoes, tailored to individual characteristics and needs. To restore the soles, you will need a simple tool (knife and scissors) and old slippers.

I don't know how they are called correctly, but I think everyone has them - summer ones made of porous material, either rubber, or foamed polyurethane. I tried to use different materials, but the best effect is given precisely by slates - after all, they are just calculated on the load from the heels when walking for a long time. Microporous rubber is harsh, travel mats, on the contrary, are too soft and quickly crumple. Using a knife, I cut out cubes (sometimes straight parallelepipeds) slightly larger than the size of the cells with a knife from old sneakers and simply insert them into the cells by friction.

Their upper edges form the inner surface of the sole, which can be shaped according to individual preferences (like an orthopedic insole). In the front part of the sole, the manufacturer of these shoes depicted the sea in the form of wavy lines - well, beautiful, but you can't insert cubes. Therefore, I simply cut off a flat leaf from the old sneaker and cut out a detail from it, designed to eliminate the deflection of the insole under the knuckles.

I glued this plate to the insole with ordinary double-sided tape - it holds perfectly to the shift, and hardly anyone will tear it off. The assembly of the boots is carried out in the reverse order: we insert the insoles into place, thread the laces into the holes and o-la, the boots are like new ! This simple method was used to repair fishing winter boots, a couple of sneakers and something else there - unfortunately I do not keep records. All repaired shoes feel great and continue to serve me faithfully.

The shoe-reinforced sole easily holds my carcass with a fifty-kilogram bag of cement on the shoulders. Section Contents The best shoes that you don’t feel or notice.

A post on how to fix your own shoes at home or on the go There are several ways to fix this problem.

I will describe the repair at home, but if you put together and take with you a small repair kit, you can also do a simple shoe repair in the conditions of a hike by taking an ordinary thread treated with wax. This is to ensure that the shoes are waterproof.

Then, on the sole, you need to draw a line with a pencil, stepping back from the edge of 5 millimeters. Then, with an awl, pierce the sole along this line. Holes need to be made at a distance of 10 millimeters.

Tie the thread tightly when stitching to prevent loops from forming. Glue can also help in repairing the sole. Cut a piece out of thin rubber according to the shape of the defect. Then take sandpaper, preferably coarse, and sand the sole.

Apply a thin layer of glue to the sole and a piece of rubber. Wait 5 minutes. After that, apply the glue to the sole again and attach a rubber outsole to it. Press firmly with a load and leave for 12 hours.

After the glue is dry, cut off the edges of the outsole with a knife to repair the cracked sole. First you need to clean it of dirt and dust, sand it with sandpaper. Then wipe with petrol or acetone so that the surface is degreased.

Cut off the edges of the crack 1 mm deep with a knife. Measure its depth and add another 15 millimeters. Cut the strip as wide as you get. A bicycle camera is suitable for this.

Sand the rubber strip with sandpaper, wipe with gasoline or acetone. Apply rubber glue. After that, you need to bend the cracked sole so that the crack opens. Apply glue.

After 15 minutes, place the rubber strip in the crack and straighten. For a day, leave the shoes pressed under pressure. Repair of the honeycomb structure of the sole can also be done at home. It is necessary to separate the insole above the sole, fill the honeycomb with silicone sealant.

Then stick the insole back on. Hope these tips will help you keep your hiking and casual shoes in good working order and will last you a long time to come.

Video (click to play).

Often, not only shoes need to be repaired, but also underground telephone lines, water pipes or sewers, and difficulties arise when horizontal drilling is required. In this case, you need specialized drilling equipment of Western or Russian production. Of the Russian manufacturers, drilling equipment from NPK Gidrofob Remsvyazmontazh LLC has proven itself well.

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