In detail: do-it-yourself milk bottle repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
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- Moscow city
greetings comrades
I bought such a flask - the Red Army is liter, very good external condition, I want to use it in reconstruction
decided to check for buoyancy - that is, it flows or not
flowed - 2 small, but very unpleasant trickles
what do you recommend - argon welding? epoxy with aluminum powder?
or maybe there is a DOC in this matter and help restore the flask with a deed
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Post has been edited by Zhorik1980: 14 May 2011 19:59
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Post has been editedMakar: 14 May 2011 22:14
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Greetings! Below in this section, I have posted a post on restoration using a cold joint "Polirem". Remove oxides from fistulas. Use a drill to countersink the hole a little. Take two NEW plastic bags. Nest one inside the other. Push both packages inside the flask, pour hot water, almost boiling water up to the very neck and plug with a cork. Why is this done. In case of large fistulas, a sufficient liquid weld will flow into the inside of the flask. A bag of water will support it. Dilute the weld as previously described and apply the required amount to the fistula. When it hardens, in a day, wipe with sandpaper. Good luck!
1- no problem if a little welding (cold) leaks inside.
2-sanding should not be done with this aluminum flask (as damage will be done) to the flask.
3-Your method is suitable, as you correctly noted, for large damage. (We do not see this here)
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Personally, I would correct the situation with argon welding, it is safer and more environmentally friendly, cold welding is still chemistry.
I will notice that in Europe there are no aluminum utensils for 50 years. (to the question of harm)
And the flask of the USSR from the beginning of the 30s. (Not a simple flask)
Post has been edited by Paramosha: May 14 2011 20:44
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- Moscow city
in general, on thinking about 2 of the most simple, inexpensive and effective options
1 - cold welding with aluminum powder
in this case, only with the second crack it is necessary to think about and remove the rust - it is present and the crack is blown out a little - although it is not visible to the eye
second - fresh crack - superficial - not blown
2 - solder with solder for aluminum - a little more time and trouble, but the patch will come out more efficiently and reliably
again - the metals used in it come into direct contact with the luminous and completely close the crack
CONCLUSION
I close the crack with solder
I cover the fistula with cold welding
thank all comrades for their help)))
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Of course, if there is argon welding and a good argon master, then you need to use it. If this is not possible, then “Polirem”. And you will have to expand the fistula. The white aluminum oxide needs to be removed. Otherwise, you will not see a positive result. When repairing such small fistulas, you can do without internal bags.But when filling fistulas with a diameter of more than 3 mm., No longer.
Oxides must be removed, otherwise the leakage may remain.
Expansion of the fistula with a drill is called Zinkovka.
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- City: Nizhny Novgorod region
Post has been editedMakar: 14 May 2011 09:37 PM
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- City: Velikiye Luki
You are right CENSOR.
behind the machine (lathe) stood 25 years ago.
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Post has been edited by AlekS.59: 15 May 2011 00:12
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- City: South of Ukraine
Again, we will damage the flask. (form)
No, for this, sand is filled in so that it does not deform. In this case, the sand will serve as a mandrel.
Post has been editedAlekS.59: 15 May 2011 00:24
- On the forum: since 2009
A limited set of tools is used - a drill, a grinder, ordinary household hand tools. No electric welding required.
Making a full-fledged autoclave at home from a standard 25-liter aluminum milk flask. The autoclave is used for preserving food and making stew, which cannot be obtained during normal cooking without creating a pressure of about 3 bar and a temperature of up to 120 degrees. A limited set of tools is used - a drill, a grinder, ordinary household hand tools. No electric welding required.
Original milk flask FA-25
4 problems need to be solved for the autoclave device:
1) Bottom reinforcement - it is flat in the can, therefore, if nothing is done, the pressure will bend it with a belly. We put an additional flat steel pancake pulled by a special structure (more details below)
2) Reinforcement of the cylindrical part cans with standard clamps.
3) Re-equipment of the cover clamp - the existing standard clamp-latch mechanism is not designed for high pressure. We make a strong pressure plate with 6 screws.
4) Installation of instrumentation and automation necessary for the autoclave - thermometer, pressure gauge, valve under the pump, safety valve with the possibility of forced pressure relief.
We take an old 12-inch wheel rim (ordinary wheels, for example, Zhiguli, are at least 13 inches, and 12 inches are from Oka and small Daewoo wheels, wheels on three bolts). We dissolve the disc lengthwise into three parts, as shown in the figure, to get two hoop-cups.
Wheel disk 12 'and cutting places with a grinder.
We put the hoops towards each other from the bottom and from the point of narrowing of the flask. In the lower cup, under the bottom of the flask, insert a circle made of sheet metal 5 mm thick and 28.5 cm in diameter with a chamfer. We tighten the hoops with six ties from the M6 threaded rod.
Additional bottom inserted into a hoop-cup.
To strengthen the cylindrical part of the flask, we take five standard steel clamps 280-300 mm and tighten them at an equal distance from each other.
Pulling the flask cylinder with clamps
The standard aluminum clamp with a latch is removed. We roll the round lid of the flask and tap around the perimeter so that the rubber gasket from under it is not squeezed out by high pressure. We make a hexagonal or round pressure plate from a sufficiently strong metal with six holes of Ø10 mm in a diameter of 24 cm. (The circle is divided into six parts just by laying a radius of 12 cm on it).
We make hooks from the screws-loops, cutting off the excess so that they can be worn freely on the handles of the flask.
The upper hoop of the flask, made of a cast alloy similar to silumin, contains two handles and pressure mechanism supports.The 4 points of exit of the handles of the flask, as well as the two points of the pressure mechanism, just form a regular hexagon. Insert the bolt into one support, and sharpen the other a little so that the screw-hook freely fits into the hook. As a result, the pressure plate with loosely mounted hook screws and wing nuts should be loosely put on the flask.
Clamp cover with six screws and wing nuts
Instrumentation and automation of the autoclave: pump valve, thermometer, manometer, safety valve with a ring for forced pressure relief.
To pump back pressure at the beginning and end of autoclaving using a pump, a valve is required. Here, a wheel extension from a Gazelle is used, which is attracted by the cut off upper part of a conventional tubeless valve. You can also take a long brass valve from any load wheel and thread an M8 thread on it to secure it with nuts to the autoclave body.
The thermometer, since the working temperature range of the autoclave is 0 - 120 degrees, is used with a scale of up to 160 degrees.
The pressure gauge, since the working pressure range is 0 - 3.5 bar, is used with a scale up to 6 bar.
To release air from the autoclave when the pressure is exceeded, a safety valve is required. The valve is used from the pneumatic system of the brakes of the ZIL-130 car (the driver's name for the valve, excuse me, "fart" - that's how you should ask in the store) with minor modifications:
- replacement of the stem spring with a weaker one, since the valve is designed for pressures in the region of 10 bar, and we need to limit it somewhere around 4 bar.
- flatten the tip of the movable valve stem, drill a hole in it for the ring, for which it will be possible to manually pull the stem and forcibly release the pressure e from the autoclave.
- grind the valve ball more tightly, since in the car it does not require perfect fit from it, but here it is necessary that the valve is reliably locked at low pressures.
Lapping the valve ball: by gently squeezing the ball against the fitting in a vice, it is necessary to achieve the appearance of a mirror strip at the place of contact.
Ready autoclave
1) Ease of making at home. No electric welding required. From the power tool, only a drill and a grinder are needed.
2) The construction of the autoclave is stainless.
3) The autoclave is convenient and lightweight - only 11 kg.
4) The design of the autoclave is collapsible. Allows you to replace parts (up to the can itself), it is easy to improve the design as ideas arise.
5) Reduction of the cost of the autoclave in comparison with industrial analogs, at least five times. Calculation of the costs of the presented sample:
Used milk flask FL-25 according to the announcement - 750 rubles.
Steel clamps 280-300 mm 5 pieces - 315 rubles.
A rod for tie pins 2 m long with an M6 thread - 64 rubles.
Loop screws M10 x50 mm 6 pcs. - 240 rubles.
Wheel valve extension from "Gazelle" - 50 rubles.
Thermometer 0-160 degrees. - 200 rubles.
Pressure gauge 0-6 bar - 127 rubles.
Safety valve for air brake system ZIL-130 - 140 rubles.
Other hardware - about 100 rubles.
Total costs - about 2,000 rubles. (Industrial designs are sold at prices of 10,000 rubles and above)
In the near future, as the autoclave is being tested, recommendations on its operation and recipes for preparing food will be posted here.
Please leave feedback, suggestions, questions.
Yuri, and how to make canned meat or fish, you can tell something, and I want to see more fully how to use it.
put a clean half-liter jar in half of the meat in the middle, put 5 peas of pepper 1 lava teaspoon of salt without a slide, bring the meat to the finger from the top, the atom will break it put the jars in the autoclave pour water over the jars with two fingers close the autoclave pump pressure from 1 to 2 kg. check for leakage. heat to a temperature of 110g. time to hold at a temperature of 110-116g. 45 minutes it is not advised to exceed the temperature at 120, the meat is burnt, let the autoclave cool down, prepare a bottle of vodka and open a PLEASANT APETIT!
Very simple and beautiful, I liked it
Here is a little more detailed and the second copy of the autoclave - Home autoclave from a milk flask (can)
Indeed, if you bring the temperature to 120, then the meat will burn. If you clave in the range of 105-110, then the meat will always be edible.
Recipe for AUTOCLAVE - "EGGPLANT CAVIAR"
Put the prepared caviar in prepared, well-washed jars (it is not necessary to sterilize the jars). On top of the caviar, you can add a few black peppercorns. And one tablespoon of refined oil each. Roll up the banks.
Place in an autoclave, heat to 90 - 95 ° C, and turn off the autoclave. Remove the cans after the autoclave has reached ambient temperature.
Before serving, chopped garlic (about one clove) can be added to the eggplant caviar.
If anyone is interested, I can post a photo of the cooking process and the finished product. I really don't know how to attach pictures.
Designing and assembling a moonshine still is an interesting and exciting activity. If for some reason you are not satisfied with the purchase of a ready-made industrial-made apparatus, then it remains to make the installation for moonshine brewing yourself. A moonshine still from a milk flask is one of the most acceptable options, both in price and in the volume of operations required to re-equip the vessel.
As a distillation still, milk cans are better than many adapted containers. They are inferior only to pressure cookers, and even then in terms of the number of options for choosing a volume, milk cans have no equal. They can be purchased in a range of capacities from 10 to 100 liters at a very reasonable price. It is not necessary to buy a new can for the device, you can find it on the second-hand market in quite decent condition.
The aluminum can is the most popular cube container, but not the safest
The cans are characterized by a characteristic shape with a tapered top, a wide mouth and a lid equipped with a hinge and a special lock. To transport milk, special food grade rubber or silicone pads are used. They are quite suitable for distillation, withstanding quite high temperatures. But rubber pads are rather unstable, so they should be replaced with silicone ones. Cutting these out of the sheet or using a hose cut along the length is simple and inexpensive.
To make a moonshine still with your own hands from a milk can requires a minimum of alterations. First, we drill a hole in the center of the cover for the steam pipe fitting. Its diameter depends on the future superstructure. If you are going to install a conventional distiller with a steam boiler and a bubbler, then a threaded nipple is sufficient, onto which the steam pipe stand will be screwed.
Drill two holes in the lid
If a distillation column is installed, the opening must be larger. An adapter is inserted into it for fastening the column using a clamp clamp or a union nut. The fittings and adapters themselves are fixed with two clamping nuts, internal and external, under which silicone gaskets are installed. The threads on the nozzle can be cut at home. The right taps and dies can be found in every garage.
The second hole, for a thermometer, with a diameter of 5.5 mm, is drilled in the lid or wall of the can in the upper part of the cone. It is more practical to install a thermometer in the lid - there is enough space there and it is easier to drill it. A thread is cut in the hole and a piece of stainless steel tube about 5 cm long with a pre-cut thread is screwed. In some home-made designs, a sleeve sealed from below is installed. This is a technically correct decision regarding the complete sealing of the evaporator, but the temperature readings are somewhat distorted. Although 2-3 C is not critical in the operation of a household device, it is better that the thermometer stem is in direct contact with the medium. It is very simple to make a sleeve - just rivet the lower part of the pipe.
We mount a fitting and a thermometer into the holes of the lid.
You can install any factory-made distillation equipment on the can, for example, the "Malinovka" apparatus, designed specifically for the can. Columns "Brownie", "Phoenix Crystal", "Ermak plus", "Katyusha" are also well adapted to work on a milk flask.It is only necessary to buy the equipment before starting the conversion of the milk can, so as not to be mistaken with the diameter of the installation pipe.
It is also necessary to install a safety valve on a moonshine still from a flask. It is also mounted in the lid with a thread or sealant. It is very convenient to use a standard valve from a multicooker or pressure cooker. You can buy them on the market or on the Internet. They cost, compared to the price of the rest of the equipment, a little, and their role is very significant. Milk cans are hermetically sealed, the constipation is strong and if the pipeline is clogged, troubles can be quite noticeable.
The drain valve for stillage is installed only if the volume of the flask is more than 25 liters. It is very convenient to remove the smaller vessels from the stove - they are equipped with two side handles. The wide mouth and the hinged or removable lid allow you to calmly pour out the vinasse and wash the flask.
The complete re-equipment of the flask ends with the installation of a fitting for connecting a steam generator. It cuts into the side wall at a height of 2.5 cm from the bottom. On the outer side of the nozzle, a thread is cut to connect the steam line, a bubbler is connected to the inner side - a perforated spiral going from the perimeter to the center of the bottom. The steam pipe system is made of stainless steel or copper. Tube diameter - from 10 mm. It is not difficult to make a spiral of the desired configuration out of it using the same technology as a coil for a refrigerator.
You can convert a moonshine still with your own hands from a can under heating from electricity. To do this, it is enough to embed heating elements with a capacity of 1.5 kW on both sides. For this purpose, two holes are drilled, according to the size of the heating element, if it is "C" -shaped, or one of a large diameter, if the heating element is spiral.
Such a device can be equipped with heating elements.
Heaters are sealed using FUM tape or special heat-resistant putty and fastened with nuts. The connection cable must be selected with a cross-section of at least 2.5 cm. If possible, install an electronic control unit or a rheostat. It is much more convenient than turning the heating element on and off one by one. Two heaters are needed to set the "high-speed heating" and "distillation" modes. If the moonshine still has a volume of more than 30 liters, the heating element of 1.5 kW is not enough. You need to install one 3 kW and one 1.5 kW. This is the most convenient power combination.
Milk flasks are made of aluminum and stainless steel. Aluminum cans for 20 - 50 liters, at this time, are made only in the CIS countries, Russia and China. Stainless - in almost all European countries and, of course, in China. European and Chinese cans can be found with both conventional press-on lids and screw lids. Both options are suitable for all types of moonshine stills.
If you are not experiencing very big financial difficulties, then buy a stainless steel can. For the price - better Chinese, for quality - European. But even stainless flasks from China have sufficiently strong walls, bottom and lid (thickness from 1.5 mm) and they are made of food grade steel. But here, too, caution is needed - if cans are offered on the Internet or on Ali at completely bargain prices, something is wrong. You can compare prices on specialized sites.
Aluminum cans are somewhat cheaper. They are quite durable, easy to convert and completely corrosion resistant. But, according to most doctors and gastroenterologists, they are not entirely suitable for a moonshine still. The effect of aluminum on the human body is not fully understood, and the contact of this metal with hot alcohol vapors can be fraught with many surprises.
But at the same time, most household moonshine stills in Russia are made of aluminum milk cans, and there are millions of them. There were no well-known cases of poisoning or harm to health by aluminum. Therefore, aluminum milk cans for making do-it-yourself moonshine stills can be considered conditionally acceptable without additional restrictions.
You can make a moonshine still from a flask, if you have all the necessary materials and tools at hand, in a few hours. When searching for and buying components - in 2-3 days. The service life of such an installation is unlimited.
Making a distiller with your own hands is the best way out for those who consider it an unjustified investment to buy it. However, you can make a moonshine still from a flask, but you can buy the necessary "sheds", the same refrigerator, or even a rectification column separately.
Many people in their dachas, especially in private houses, have perfectly preserved aluminum milk flasks of 38 liters. This was the most popular size during the Soviet era. They were inexpensive, but were (and remain) very practical due to the possibility of a hermetically sealed closure.
And to be honest, even then these cans were actively using home distillers for their own purposes: they put the mash in them and successfully distilled the moonshine. It is worth noting that today the choice is even greater: you can buy a flask from 5 to 100 liters.
Flasks are mainly used in Europe and China stainless steel... This is probably the main reason that medical research has been confused about the use of aluminum. Allegedly, when interacting with an aggressive environment (which is the mash), especially when heated, it oxidizes. At the same time, substances harmful to humans are released.
We continue to produce both aluminum flasks and pots today.
Reference. Not a single case of poisoning associated with the use of aluminum cookware has been reported worldwide. That is, the conclusions of scientists are only theoretical.
However, for those who are anxious about the material, there is an alternative - to buy a stainless steel jar. They are produced in China and European countries and sold here.
note... To save money, you can independently write out a flask of the required size from China through Internet sites, the same Aliexpress, for example.
Although the European ones are much better in quality. But why fool your head then, if for the money paid for a European flask, you can buy a pretty decent Russian-made moonshine still.
Milk flasks, even those that are already many years old, have many advantages over other products suitable for a cube:
- this is an almost finished cube that requires minimal alterations. And even then, if it is planned to heat on a stove (gas or electric), only the lid will require changes, the can itself can not be touched at all;
- flasks are made of thick metal, have a large margin of safety;
- do not rust, durable;
- mash can be placed in the same vessel;
- aluminum heats up quickly, transferring heat to the brew, thereby speeding up the distillation;
- voluminous neck, which allows you to track fermentation, and also easy to wash the can.
The disadvantages include the presence of a special rim near the bottom of the can. It is difficult to heat such a flask on an electric stove, but for a gas stove, steam generator, heating element it does not matter.
Another important point that is often overlooked by the distiller: process safety... Many have probably seen on TV or heard about the explosions of moonshine stills (read: from what moonshine still explode and how to avoid it).
One of the main reasons is the blockage of the steam outlet pipe with foam or even solid particles contained in the wash. At the same time, pressure increases inside the cube, and when the material of the tank does not withstand the pressure, an explosion occurs. Sometimes it is so strong that windows fly out in the house, the moonshiner is seriously injured, he can lose consciousness. And at this time a fire breaks out due to alcohol vapors escaping outside.
Therefore, in no case do we leave the device unattended during the ferry and take additional safety measures. The main one is installation of a safety valve.
Attention. Many moonshiners explain their reluctance to equip the distillation cube with a valve by the fact that in this way, they say, part of the alcohol vapor will "fly away" into the atmosphere.
Will not be! With the correct distillation, there is no excess pressure in the cube, alcohol vapors rise through the outlet pipe, and the valve "does not work".
Remember how a pressure cooker works (and a multicooker too). Steam starts to come out only when the liquid inside boils. During distillation, the mash never reaches the boiling point and steam is not ejected through the valve. But the presence of the valve saves in case of unforeseen situations.
You can choose from the following options:
- valve for the compressor, triggered at a pressure of about 10 atm. This is a bit too much, the material of the flask may not withstand, especially if it is far from new. Price from 140 rubles;
- safety valve made in China, "switched on" at 1.6 atm. Price - 500 r. and higher;
- pressure cooker valve. Its price on Chinese online sales sites is 70 rubles;
- thermometer in an open (not sealed) capsule.
To do this, a 10 mm hole is drilled in the wall of the flask at the top or in the lid, in which a stainless steel tube is hermetically fixed. A conical rubber band from a dropper is inserted into it, and then a bimetallic thermometer.
Its probe is inside the cube, and the dial is outside. In distillation or rectification mode, the thermometer informs about the temperature inside the cube. But if an emergency suddenly arises, and the pressure rises sharply, it will simply push the thermometer out and dump through the tube.
You will need a drain valve if you have a large flask. For a 10-liter (which actually holds no more than 7 liters of beer), there is no special need for it. And for the convenience of getting rid of the stillage of a 40-liter container, it can be very useful.
Better to use an all-brass faucet with a swing-arm. You can even connect a garden hose to it and drain the waste wash into the sewer, even on the compost heap in the garden.
If you want to equip your machine steam generator, with the help of which you can distill even very thick wort, which will surely burn during normal heating on the stove, it is not difficult. A fitting is screwed into a centimeter can 3 above the bottom, ensuring its tightness.
On the inside of the can (that's when a wide neck is important), a bubbler or spiral is installed on the fitting, reaching the middle of the container. A steam line is connected from the outside.
In many cases, the use of heating elements is advisable, and their installation is not difficult.
It is enough just to make two holes - exactly the size of the connection for the heating element and fix the heater in the flask, stepping back about 5 cm from the bottom.
As a rule, all connecting elements - gaskets, nuts - come with a heating element. For a can up to 20 liters, a 2 kilowatt heater is sufficient, or two installed opposite one another, but of lower power. For a 38-liter heater, you need a more powerful heating element - by 3.5 - 4 kW.
Peculiarities. With the help of a heating element, a clean, strained wash is distilled, which does not have a sediment.
When trying to distill a thick wort containing particles of the product, it will certainly burn, impairing the quality of the moonshine.
Having decided on how you see your future moonshine still, start creating it.
Important. If you plan to use purchased additional products: a steam bath, a strengthening or rectification column, a refrigerator, it is better to order them in advance and make all the connections already under the existing "canopies".
Everything else is at your discretion. Do not forget that only silicone hoses can be used in those connections that come into contact with alcohol vapors and moonshine.
We collect the simplest distiller - a moonshine still for 1500 rubles at home from artifacts (a flask and other components, more details in the video):
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