Do-it-yourself Monica repair on the Passat B3

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a Monica on a Passat B3 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Today I took apart Monique, “sucks” the air, found holes. What are they for ?, Are they needed ?, What will happen if they are closed?

There were fittings for the vacuum tubes, drown out, but it is better to find a whole one and restore the standard vacuum line, otherwise there will be a topic-zadolbal TGM.

what is THM?) I have vacuum ones, from distributor to monique to the bottom somewhere, and from air, too, somewhere to monique

and the link to see the diagram first?

since the speech went over the pipes. The car starts up - the valve blocks cold air. hot, cold anyway. When I sharply increase the engine speed, the damper moves a little. And that's all. It seems to me that it should work a little differently. When the car warms up, the flap should block the air from the manifold. Why does he constantly block the access of cold air for me?

it gets warmer - it will overlap the hot one. there temperatures need 25-30 degrees

Video (click to play).

it gets warmer - it will overlap the hot one. there temperatures need 25-30 degrees

Will not be! It's not the first winter I've been driving like that

Duc in winter and blocks the cold supply)) - completely blocks until the temperature inside the turtle in the air stream is plus 25-30

what is THM?) I have vacuum ones, from distributor to monique to the bottom somewhere, and from air, too, somewhere to monique

and the link to see the diagram first?

I looked, without this everything is functioning normally. The question was different, what would happen if they were closed, or left so, what would change? then I already guessed that there are vacuum ones, and what is tgm there is no answer, thank you)

tgm-temperature glitch of mono-injection is a phenomenon that has not been studied. Close it, there will be no unaccounted for air leakage, that is, in theory, it should be better.

And what will happen if, instead of the standard fittings, I screw on some other left fittings? or still supply the original bug with a fitting? the price of the issue for a turtle is 200 r, but also a bulk of the felting fitting is free =)

Better put a normal "turtle" with a valve instead of these holes and drive as befits a "true monikovod".

put a turtle with a valve,

I connected the vacuum tubes according to the scheme, now it keeps the revolutions stably 900) before it was not much, but they glanced.

Thank you all, everyone is happy. let's see if the consumption will become even less) 5-6 liters? oo

and the consumption depends on how you press the trigger))

the air sucked wildly, now you close the air, stalls, did not change in work before. Will this not change the flow rate?

the air sucked wildly, now you close the air, stalls, did not change in work before.

If you put on a gas mask and clamp the valve, Duc and you will “stall”. )))

Volkswagen Passat B3 is a popular car that has earned the best reviews from many experienced drivers for its reliability, ease of maintenance, long service life and spaciousness. Bribing with its durable, corrosion-resistant body and reliable engine, despite its age, it remains a frequent visitor on the roads. Naturally, even such a high-quality car is not complete without various breakdowns.

Engine problems can be very diverse, depending on various reasons. So, floating values of engine speed, when the speed starts to decrease while driving, may be associated with malfunctions in the multi-injection. It also happens that, due to malfunctions of the single injection, the Passat b3 does not start at all. A further article will describe how to set up the Passat v3 mono injection.

The computer diagnostics that everyone is used to now is completely useless when it comes to older cars. Fortunately, the diagnostics of the VW Passat B3 mono injection does not apply to tasks that require special education. Troubleshooting a single injection Volkswagen Passat b3 is within the power of any competent owner.

One of the common malfunctions of the Volkswagen Passat b3 single injection is a violation of the tightness of the gasket, in which the distribution of fuel becomes uneven. Such a breakdown can be cured quite simply - by replacing the gasket. Another common malfunction is a violation of the connection of the wires located under the yellow sensor on mono injection. The sensor can be easily removed for diagnostics. Do not forget about the rest of the wires - checking their integrity can solve the problem.

Cleaning the single injection Passat b3 will help to cope if carbon deposits have formed on the throttle valve or it is clogged. The question: "how to clean the Passat B3 mono injection?", Has a very simple answer - to disassemble and clean. Fortunately, this unit has a fairly simple design and is easy to maintain.

The distributor cover can cause inconvenience even if penetration is indiscernible to the eye. In this case, only replacement will help. Replacement will also help with clogging of the fuel filter - a common cause of malfunctions. The fuel cell may also need to be replaced, as failure can lead to improper compression.

Of course, this is not a complete list of possible malfunctions, but it is better to entrust the solution of other reasons to the specialists of the car service. If the above tips helped, then the second stage of work is ahead - setting.

The first step is to use a multimeter to measure the resistance value of the temperature sensor of the air supply to the single injection. The resistance value should be approximately 1800-1900 ohms at an air temperature of 20 degrees Celsius. For a working sensor, heating will lead to a decrease in resistance, and cooling will lead to an increase. The injector resistance must correspond to the 1200-1600 ohm range.

Next, you need to adjust the clearance for idle. Throwing 12 V on the contacts of the regulator, we put the accelerator in the extreme position. Using a multimeter, we check for a short circuit by inserting a probe into the gap between the end switch of the aforementioned accelerator and the stem. With an excessive distance between the limit switch and the stem, the multimeter will not show a short circuit. The gap can be adjusted by changing the position of the limit switch with the screw located at the bottom of the mono injection.

The next step is to set the throttle. This action is performed after installing the single injection on the engine with the connection of the injector and sensor connectors. It is also necessary to connect the fuel supply. After completing all the above steps, you must disconnect the battery and turn on the ignition. This action will reset the mono injection settings.

Having connected the battery back, we check the voltage between 1 and 5 pins on the connector that controls the throttle. The result should be 5-6 volts. A measurement between the first and second pins should give a reading of 0.186 volts.For other values, adjustments must be made. When a multimeter is connected to the first and second contacts, it is necessary to turn the damper cover to the side, having previously loosened the screws, fixing the voltage value and bringing it to the required one.

Actually, in such a simple way, the Volkswagen Passat b3 mono-injection is being repaired. For him, the most basic knowledge in car repair and tools available in the garage of any car enthusiast, not to mention professionals, is enough. Following these tips will save you a lot of money in the future due to less frequent visits to the service station.

In most cases, questions are raised by setting up and repairing mono-injection sensors for the Volkswagen Passat B3, we will tell you about this. First of all, you need to pay attention to how to check the sensors for serviceability.

This video shows how to check the throttle position sensor (TPS) using a multimeter, and also set it up correctly:

This video shows how to check the manual:

Image - Do-it-yourself Monica repair on the Passat B3

Attention! Car service network of favorable prices. Camber check is FREE! No queues! Repair on the same day!

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It's no secret that the Passat B3 is considered the most common car in the entire Volkswagen range. This machine is reliable, roomy, easy to maintain, and durable. It starts up perfectly even in severe frost and has many other advantages. But it also has disadvantages, which include a not very successful single injection system. How to repair and configure the system on a Volkswagen Passat with your own hands, we will tell you in this article.

Monoinjection is a type of fuel supply system to the engine combustion chambers. It differs from all the others in that there is only one injector in it and only through it all the cylinders receive the fuel mixture... Mono injection has both pros and cons. On the one hand, the engine with mono injection is easier to start, since the system is monitored by a special valve, and the mono injection is designed more simply than the classic injector. On the other hand, repairing a single injection is more expensive and depends heavily on the quality of the power supply.

The symptom of an uneven mono injection is most often one: the engine speed suddenly starts to "float", and it does not react well to pressing the gas pedal... This can happen both immediately after starting the engine, and during the trip. The repair of the mono injection system itself does not take much time. Much more time is spent on identifying the cause of the breakdown. This task in the Volkswagen Passat B3 is seriously complicated by the fact that this machine does not have a computer connection module, and therefore, it is impossible to quickly carry out a full-fledged diagnosis.

Let's list the most common causes of uneven injection:

The gasket installed directly under the mono injection has lost its tightness.
The contacts of the wires under the mono-injection sensor have come off.
The problem arose after the spark plugs were replaced with new ones.
The tightness of the distributor cover is broken (moreover, the crack may not be visible to the naked eye, but it will be enough for the appearance of failures in the fuel distribution).
The compression generated by the fuel pump is too high (or vice versa - too low).
The throttle valve is clogged or covered with thick carbon deposits.
The integrity of the wires going to the sensor that monitors the position of the throttle valve is broken.

Flat blade screwdriver (medium).
Open-end wrench set.
A set of new spark plugs.
A set of socket heads with a knob.
Multimeter.
Sandpaper.
Insulating tape.
A set of flat probes.
New gasket for mono injection.
New distributor cover.

The hood opens, with the help of the socket head, the single injection is unscrewed by 10, the gasket under it is replaced with a new one. Mono injection is removed with a socket head
The contacts of the single injection sensor are carefully checked. If they are oxidized, they are cleaned with sandpaper.
If problems persist after replacing the spark plugs, the old plugs are returned to the engine and checked again for stability. If it turns out that the problem is in the spark plugs, another set of new spark plugs is installed in the engine (it is better if they are from another manufacturer) and the check is carried out again.
The distributor cover is replaced with a new one.
The fuel pump is unscrewed, the throttle valve is cleared of soot. The fuel pump is removed, you can inspect the wires and sensor
A visual analysis of the wires on the damper sensor is carried out and the integrity of their insulation and the density of contacts are assessed. In damaged places, the sensor wires are wrapped with electrical tape.
As a rule, after one of the above actions, the problem of uneven injection is solved. But before installation on the car, the mono injection must be adjusted. A multimeter is used to measure the resistance at the outputs of the intake air temperature sensor. The measurement result is compared with the value specified in the vehicle operating instructions (roughly: if the air temperature at the time of measurement is room temperature and is 25 ° C, then the resistance should be 1.8 kOhm). Resistance at the sensor outputs is measured with a multimeter
Next, the incoming air sensor is slightly heated using a conventional lighter, while the change in its resistance is monitored. If it decreases when the sensor heats up, and increases when it cools, then the sensor is working properly and there will be no problems with it after installation.
The injector resistance is measured with the same multimeter (on this Volkswagen model it varies from 1.3 to 1.6 ohms).
Mono injection now sets the exact idle clearance. A voltage of 12 V is supplied from the car battery to the contacts of the injection regulator. In this case, the accelerator is set to the extreme position. The multimeter switches to the "short circuit" mode and its contacts are connected to the regulator on the accelerator. It is necessary to ensure that a small gap appears between the end of the accelerator and the rod, the width of which should not exceed 0.5 mm (this distance is checked with a flat probe, which is inserted into the gap formed). At the same time, a short circuit should be displayed on the multimeter. If it is not there, then the gap is too large and it is reduced with the help of the adjusting bolt (it is under mono injection).
The throttle valve is now adjusted. The mono injection unit is installed on the engine, the connector is connected to the injector. The sensors for the position of the damper and the incoming air are also connected. Fuel pipes are connected. After that, the negative terminal is removed from the battery, and the key in the ignition switch turns. In this case, all settings in the on-board unit are reset, including the settings for the damper position. They are automatically set to the factory default values. After reset, the negative terminal is reconnected. Mono injection is installed, the damper contacts are checked
A multimeter measures the voltage at the fifth and first contacts in the damper connector (while the ignition is on). It should not exceed 6 V. Then the multimeter switches to the first and second contacts of the damper connector. The voltage there should be 0.184 V. So the contacts are located in the throttle valve connector Volkswagen Passat B3
If these voltage values are not observed, then the adjustment is made: 4 screws on the damper cover are loosened, the multimeter is connected to the first and second contacts of the connector, the cover turns either in one direction or the other.The voltage recorded by the multimeter changes. Once the position of the cover with the optimum tension is found, the bolts are tightened. This completes the adjustment.

As you can see from this article, when repairing a single injection on a Volkswagen Passat B3, a motorist will have to act by the method of elimination, over and over again checking and discarding possible causes of uneven fuel supply until the real "culprit" is identified. It takes a long time, but it is the only way to pinpoint the exact cause of the problem. And then it all depends on the readings of the multimeter, which must be of high quality (it is categorically not recommended to use cheap Chinese devices when doing this work).Good time of the day! Please tell me (if there is a photo, it's very cool!) How to clean it and determine if there are any faults? The car accelerates poorly in the first gears, there is no dynamics. It is gaining momentum, but the speed does not add much. At idle, sometimes she gasps herself ... Thank you.The monoinjection does not need to be cleaned. Some injectors are cleaned with ultrasound, nonsense. Go to diagnostics or blink codes to help you.Thanks for the advice . As I understand it, diagnostics of a single injection is to check the voltage or resistance on three sides of the sensors with a multimeter? I can do it myself. And how to find out and where what readings should be?find a paper book on the repair and operation of the trade wind v3. There it is described in detail about all the Monica connectors and their voltage. I can't do it myself, take an assistant. I did it today.Thanks for the advice . As I understand it, diagnostics of a single injection is to check the voltage or resistance on three sides of the sensors with a multimeter? I can do it myself. And how to find out and where what readings should be?The same trouble with me. I cleaned mono, in general, I checked everything, it did not help. but I think there is still an air leak,About air leaks. When you find it, please let me know. Suddenly I have the same situevina. I plan to deal with Monica's questions in a week (while I'm collecting spare parts: gaskets, Torx bought keys, and so on ...). After I will report on the results.The same trouble with me. I cleaned mono, in general, I checked everything, it did not help. but I think there is still an air leak,I read about Monique in the BZ.Throw a reference - relevant now for meI don’t know there, but you can climb on vwts. There are many interesting things.I changed the blue sensor on the tee and it became a enemy 4 I am better ploning and replace the nozzle. by the way, take the detectors from topran, it seems to be written like this. and check the brown tester for hot, it should close and cold vice versa. if you write something ...Damn, I wrote the answers in the wrong place. Look in the meeting room a minute or two ago.I changed the blue sensor on the tee and it became a enemy 4 I am better ploning and replace the nozzle. by the way, take the detectors from topran, it seems to be written like this. and check the brown tester for hot, it should close and cold vice versa. if you write something ...I don’t understand which sensor I changed, which tee? In front of the engine in the cooling system?yes he is the most. start the car and disconnect it, see how the troit will work. I changed it and the consumption decreasedI changed the blue sensor on the tee and it became a enemy 4 I am better ploning and replace the nozzle. by the way, take the detectors from topran, it seems to be written like this. and check the brown tester for hot, it should close and cold vice versa. if you write something ...Don't take TOPRAN!
only VAG or HELLAFirst check the injector itself with a multimeter. Suddenly it’s not her, but the money she costs about 6,000 rubles. I changed the nozzle - the same result. Now I have 2 of them, it would be better to buy something else useful with this money.And I dug in the net for air leaks. Watch the intake manifold gasket, watch the gasket between the central injection unit body flange and the intake manifold, watch the hose connecting the single injection to the vacuum brake booster. They also write about vacuum tubes that go from Monica to the air filter (they crack over time and this affects the engine factory, fuel consumption increases by about a liter, slowly accelerates, idle is unstable). Did you look at the gasket under the monoinjection itself? When the engine is running, did you try to tilt the mono injection a little back and forth?I changed the gasket under Monique, the same garbage. I revised all the leaks, but after replacing the sensor it goes almost normally, the consumption is slightly increased, not 3 litersIf the flow rate is increased, first look at the lambda probe. Have you changed it for a long time? On mine, I changed it just in case 2 years ago, put a universal Bosch (about 1500 rubles). Before that, the native stood. It's an ambush to shoot him, he sticks to it and usually they beat everyone with a sledgehammer, which cannot be done, because the head can be damaged. THERE IS REFERENCE HOW TO HANDLE IT CORRECTLY. my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3434/lyambda-zo..en-passat-b3-bez-problem/ and by the way there is a special spanner key (400 rubles worth) for removing the lambda, it is like this with a slot for wires, although it is possible with ordinary keys, if you immediately bite the wire. I have a twisted connection, but you can probably solder a dad-mom and easily detach-attach if necessary.I am familiar with the topran. Very different reviews, from excellent to complete nonsense. And this is true. Here is a reference to be aware of which topran you are buying. Check what you bought at the same time. Good luck !I read, I will not sin on her. I buy it at one point for a year and everything is OK.Blue DTOZH ONLY ORIGINAL! do not spare money on it, the whole motor dances from it! Doesn't it pull? See DTOZH and ignition! The nozzle has 2 positions, it works and does not work, it is elementary to check if the car starts up, it means it works, it chirps loudly during operation. Want to rinse? What could be easier! Disconnecting the gas hoses from Monica (both before and the return line), you pull out the 18 fuse, thereby turning off the ebn. Beresh 2 gas hoses (for example, in Volgomagaz they are of lower quality there), 1 m each (total 2 m), and 4 hamutics. Next, you buy Vince flushing for injection engines in chemistry. Connect hoses to Monica. Pour Vince into some container. Still need EBN. from any pelvis or Volga. Ebn is connected to the supply hose and into the container with vince, the second end of the hose to the same place. Serve on ebn +12 from ACC to a straight line, and then start a car. well, and the car is in a hurry until Vince runs out. Then you collect the regular line back. If I don't understand something, I have a note here about how to do itand disappear! MONIK DO NOT CLIMB! turn dpdz and hello! and in general, forgive me for the rude words, this is more credo - no one to climb where he works! you have 2 * 2 connectors under the gearshift knob, make blink codes for diagnostics! everything will be clear there! there is a lot about this here and here my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3141/forum/index.php?act=idx it is written, if the New Year's Eve and not alle through the connector, then pull the wire from the ecu, pomoimu 34 leg, in general, smoke forums, if that write in a personal.Thanks for the info! I was not going to touch the dpdz. I'm only going to change the potentiometer of the throttle valve (I ordered myself a new Chinese, original "non-gnawing" one. The Chinese began to produce), and the top of the single injection. Now I will think whether to climb myself or contact the Monica specialists. My hands are itching to be honest ... First I'll use your links, and then I'll make a decision. Thanks again !and what's wrong with him?The car does not start well, moreover, it is directly proportional to the air temperature (the lower the temperature, the longer the time for the “unwinding” of the starter. , accelerates very slowly and slower and slower is noticeable during this summer and now autumn. Began to eat more benzinchik. (tfu-tfu oil begins to eat only after 7000, when it is time to change a new one, and then so little by little.). When driving, it twitches, it happened even with a sharp release of the gas pedal, the speed dropped and stalled, you start everything after 30 seconds, everything is in order. I'm tired of all this, and especially when you accelerate, it picks up speed slowly, 3000 - starts to roar strongly (although the engine is not quiet anyway), and the speed is low. This is such bullshit. Therefore, I want to change the top of the single injection, because there is a sensor that shows the air temperature for preparing the mixture, then change the throttle valve potentiometer, because the tracks there wear off over time and hence the bad plant, jerks and other crap. ...You’re going to change everything, but you didn’t diagnose the car with blinks. A friend also had similar crap. I bought it, replaced it, I got a lot of money. But it turned out to be a potentiometer, one wire broke and truncated.Thanks for the news! Do you think I did not do the diagnostics? In a car service, such cars are not diagnosed (they do not know how to work with old ones), diagnosticians from private traders diagnosed them, but they cannot really say anything. In general, I no longer believe in diagnosticians, well, or how to say I have doubts ... Therefore, I personally replaced all the wiring (well, almost all, left the wires to the light bulbs) with a new one, bit out the old one - I soldered it in place with a new one, isolated it with a special vulcanizing with electrical tape (which in a minute is paired together into a monolith), changed the chips ... In general, if you have a good diagnostician in Moscow - give me the coordinates, I will be grateful. And if he is such that he looks at everything and presumably points out the reasons, then I myself can.Are there any connectors under the gearbox handle cover? Did you read the blinks? And by the way, try to reset your brains!There are connectors (2 pcs.) In a car service (at first money in the cashier) I paid 600 rubles for what they opened and looked under the hood and said that the car was not diagnosed, so you need to look at the wiring (from 4 to 7 thousand hours of work, but they can look for a whole the day and guarantees do not give that they will find IN! the car is old,,,,, _)))))), 2 diagnosticians of a private trader looked, one did not find anything at all, said the error does not show the car is working, the second found some kind of error in the wiring (the side mirror closed, the glass eventually gave a microcrack and water was poured into it - they replaced it), but this did not correct the situation. I reset the brains by removing the wire from the minus battery, after 20 minutes put it back, then it is always the same - you start the car, it oil 2100 rpm (the first time I was cheating) and podgazovat itself, but within an hour the rpm gradually falls to the desired level and in subsequent factories all the rules. And you do not know how to diagnose yourself, what you need to know for this, which program is installed on the beech and which error codes where to look?Type in a search engine (at least Yandex) -blink codes. And climb the sites. There you will find a table of codes and a lot of faqs about the blinks. It takes a very long time to explain. that's not all (it is better to throw off the connector from the brain) .Then it is necessary to start the engine WITHOUT the GAS PEDAL! for 5-10 minutes. wait 5 minutes, then start again 5-10 minutes, and then wait again and again. After this, the brains get up to the factory setting . Blinks need to be read before this procedure, every brain picks up errors. Go to VWTS, find a search, write the blink codes and lazy there according to the answers. Good luck! Zy. I saw the local video about blinks in Yandex.Well, are there results or what ?! And by the way, I regulated the TPS, it is done elementary. You need fault codes, without them you will change everything!Damn, I wrote you an answer in the general comments of the comments ..., now I'm in a hurry and then I'll write.DTV of the sucked-in (and not the surrounding) In the valve, the current membrane may be damaged - unscrew the four screws and everything will be clear Right. (By the way, are there seals on the TPS? or is it screwed on in a different way) Don't sin on the brains of the pack. The links should tell everything. Remember that by turning off the potentiometer you will immediately get an error in memory.So much for the wiring! If on our cars (old ones) it's a scourge. Over time, the wires dry out, the insulation cracks and the wire breaks. You won't see it in a bundle. And even worse, if the wire inside breaks. picking in the engine compartment raised this problem. I noticed that the cold wiring is oak-warmed up, became softer. By the way, this also applies to plastic. Be careful in cold weather! You can also check the lambda with a tester (approximately). On a warm engine, the multimeter shows from 0.5 to 0.9 V. Yes, more than 1 blamba in the trash. They bought my son a JPgroup lamba, 700 rubles. Nothing, it works. ZY. To the connectors the wires are covered with rubber, move the tip and check with passion! The wire usually breaks near this tip or inside it.My trade wind has a lambda with one wire. And I didn’t get diagnosed again today. The diagnostician said that he had a car in the garage and it was working, then the car again and, in short, the meeting was postponed to the next week. So I can't say anything. Except that the car is again inadequate, it continues to twitch and vibration, that is, then no ... generally unstable work. As you said, first on the diagonal, then it will be clear. While I stop changing something by typing, starting from assumptions ...Pralno decided.Blamba and I have one. One multimeter probe to this wire, 2nd to ground. Indications from 0.45 to 0.9V. (On a heated one). I meant everything that you see in the engine compartment. Does it mean that you have a monojetronic?Understood thanks . It is clear about the lambda. How did you set up the TPS?Pralno decided.Blamba and I have one. One multimeter probe to this wire, 2nd to ground. Indications from 0.45 to 0.9V. (On a heated one). I meant everything that you see in the engine compartment. Does it mean that you have a monojetronic?And how much should the OXYGEN SENSOR show when not hot (for example, at room temperature)?Lambda cannot be checked like that, but I will try to find it on the VWTS about the TPS.I have no time to climb, go to VWTS, find injection, knowledge base. Look there for adjustment, setting of TPS. Volkswagen Passat mono injection video On Volkswagen Passat B3 cars, the simplest and most unkillable engines were equipped with a Volkswagen single injection system.Volkswagen Passat single injection is very reliable, unpretentious, practically does not require maintenance during operation.Nevertheless, in order to maintain a Volkswagen Passat B3 car in good condition, you need to understand and know how certain car systems work.This also applies to the Volkswagen single-injection, therefore, for maintenance and operation, you need to know the principle of operation of the Volkswagen single-injection, the Volkswagen single-injection device, the Volkswagen single-injection repair and the Volkswagen single-injection adjustment.This site already has articles on individual Volkswagen single injection units, for example:To summarize all this, I want to post two videos of the Volkswagen single-injection device, the Volkswagen single-injection repair and the Volkswagen single-injection adjustment, all this applies to the MonoMotronic single injection, the AAM engine:If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to write in the comments.Videos posted with the permission of the author Evgeniya.Good time of the day! Please tell me (if there is a photo, it's very cool!) How to clean it and determine if there are any faults? The car accelerates poorly in the first gears, there is no dynamics. It is gaining momentum, but the speed does not add much. At idle, sometimes she gasps herself ... Thank you.The monoinjection does not need to be cleaned. Some injectors are cleaned with ultrasound, nonsense. Go to diagnostics or blink codes to help you.Thanks for the advice . As I understand it, diagnostics of a single injection is to check the voltage or resistance on three sides of the sensors with a multimeter? I can do it myself. And how to find out and where what readings should be?find a paper book on the repair and operation of the trade wind v3. There it is described in detail about all the Monica connectors and their voltage. I can't do it myself, take an assistant. I did it today.Thanks for the advice . As I understand it, diagnostics of a single injection is to check the voltage or resistance on three sides of the sensors with a multimeter? I can do it myself. And how to find out and where what readings should be?The same trouble with me. I cleaned mono, in general, I checked everything, it did not help. but I think there is still an air leak,About air leaks. When you find it, please let me know. Suddenly I have the same situevina. I plan to deal with Monica's questions in a week (while I'm collecting spare parts: gaskets, Torx bought keys, and so on ...). After I will report on the results.The same trouble with me. I cleaned mono, in general, I checked everything, it did not help. but I think there is still an air leak,I read about Monique in the BZ.Throw a reference - relevant now for meI don’t know there, but you can climb on vwts. There are many interesting things.I changed the blue sensor on the tee and it became a enemy 4 I am better ploning and replace the nozzle. by the way, take the detectors from topran, it seems to be written like this. and check the brown tester for hot, it should close and cold vice versa. if you write something ...Damn, I wrote the answers in the wrong place. Look in the meeting room a minute or two ago.I changed the blue sensor on the tee and it became a enemy 4 I am better ploning and replace the nozzle. by the way, take the detectors from topran, it seems to be written like this. and check the brown tester for hot, it should close and cold vice versa. if you write something ...I don’t understand which sensor I changed, which tee? In front of the engine in the cooling system?yes he is the most. start the car and disconnect it, see how the troit will work. I changed it and the consumption decreasedI changed the blue sensor on the tee and it became a enemy 4 I am better ploning and replace the nozzle. by the way, take the detectors from topran, it seems to be written like this. and check the brown tester for hot, it should close and cold vice versa. if you write something ...Don't take TOPRAN!
only VAG or HELLAFirst check the injector itself with a multimeter. Suddenly it’s not her, but the money she costs about 6,000 rubles. I changed the nozzle - the same result. Now I have 2 of them, it would be better to buy something else useful with this money.And I dug in the net for air leaks. Watch the intake manifold gasket, watch the gasket between the central injection unit body flange and the intake manifold, watch the hose connecting the single injection to the vacuum brake booster. They also write about vacuum tubes that go from Monica to the air filter (they crack over time and this affects the engine factory, fuel consumption increases by about a liter, slowly accelerates, idle is unstable). Did you look at the gasket under the monoinjection itself? When the engine is running, did you try to tilt the mono injection a little back and forth?I changed the gasket under Monique, the same garbage. I revised all the leaks, but after replacing the sensor it goes almost normally, the consumption is slightly increased, not 3 litersIf the flow rate is increased, first look at the lambda probe. Have you changed it for a long time? On mine, I changed it just in case 2 years ago, put a universal Bosch (about 1500 rubles). Before that, the native stood. It's an ambush to shoot him, he sticks to it and usually they beat everyone with a sledgehammer, which cannot be done, because the head can be damaged. THERE IS REFERENCE HOW TO HANDLE IT CORRECTLY. my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3434/lyambda-zo..en-passat-b3-bez-problem/ and by the way there is a special spanner key (400 rubles worth) for removing the lambda, it is like this with a slot for wires, although it is possible with ordinary keys, if you immediately bite the wire. I have a twisted connection, but you can probably solder a dad-mom and easily detach-attach if necessary.I am familiar with the topran. Very different reviews, from excellent to complete nonsense. And this is true. Here is a reference to be aware of which topran you are buying. Check what you bought at the same time. Good luck !I read, I will not sin on her. I buy it at one point for a year and everything is OK.Blue DTOZH ONLY ORIGINAL! do not spare money on it, the whole motor dances from it! Doesn't it pull? See DTOZH and ignition! The nozzle has 2 positions, it works and does not work, it is elementary to check if the car starts up, it means it works, it chirps loudly during operation. Want to rinse? What could be easier! Disconnecting the gas hoses from Monica (both before and the return line), you pull out the 18 fuse, thereby turning off the ebn. Beresh 2 gas hoses (for example, in Volgomagaz they are of lower quality there), 1 m each (total 2 m), and 4 hamutics.Next, you buy Vince flushing for injection engines in chemistry. Connect hoses to Monica. Pour Vince into some container. Still need EBN. from any pelvis or Volga. Ebn is connected to the supply hose and into the container with vince, the second end of the hose to the same place. Serve on ebn +12 from ACC to a straight line, and then start a car. well, and the car is in a hurry until Vince runs out. Then you collect the regular line back. If I don't understand something, I have a note here about how to do itand disappear! MONIK DO NOT CLIMB! turn dpdz and hello! and in general, forgive me for the rude words, this is more credo - no one to climb where he works! you have 2 * 2 connectors under the gearshift knob, make blink codes for diagnostics! everything will be clear there! there is a lot about this here and here my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3141/forum/index.php?act=idx it is written, if the New Year's Eve and not alle through the connector, then pull the wire from the ecu, pomoimu 34 leg, in general, smoke forums, if that write in a personal.Thanks for the info! I was not going to touch the dpdz. I'm only going to change the potentiometer of the throttle valve (I ordered myself a new Chinese, original "non-gnawing" one. The Chinese began to produce), and the top of the single injection. Now I will think whether to climb myself or contact the Monica specialists. My hands are itching to be honest ... First I'll use your links, and then I'll make a decision. Thanks again !and what's wrong with him?The car does not start well, moreover, it is directly proportional to the air temperature (the lower the temperature, the longer the time for the “unwinding” of the starter. , accelerates very slowly and slower and slower is noticeable during this summer and now autumn. Began to eat more benzinchik. (tfu-tfu oil begins to eat only after 7000, when it is time to change a new one, and then so little by little.). When driving, it twitches, it happened even with a sharp release of the gas pedal, the speed dropped and stalled, you start everything after 30 seconds, everything is in order. I'm tired of all this, and especially when you accelerate, it picks up speed slowly, 3000 - starts to roar strongly (although the engine is not quiet anyway), and the speed is low. This is such bullshit. Therefore, I want to change the top of the single injection, because there is a sensor that shows the air temperature for preparing the mixture, then change the throttle valve potentiometer, because the tracks there wear off over time and hence the bad plant, jerks and other crap. ...You’re going to change everything, but you didn’t diagnose the car with blinks. A friend also had similar crap. I bought it, replaced it, I got a lot of money. But it turned out to be a potentiometer, one wire broke and truncated.Thanks for the news! Do you think I did not do the diagnostics? In a car service, such cars are not diagnosed (they do not know how to work with old ones), diagnosticians from private traders diagnosed them, but they cannot really say anything. In general, I no longer believe in diagnosticians, well, or how to say I have doubts ... Therefore, I personally replaced all the wiring (well, almost all, left the wires to the light bulbs) with a new one, bit out the old one - I soldered it in place with a new one, isolated it with a special vulcanizing with electrical tape (which in a minute is paired together into a monolith), changed the chips ... In general, if you have a good diagnostician in Moscow - give me the coordinates, I will be grateful. And if he is such that he looks at everything and presumably points out the reasons, then I myself can.Are there any connectors under the gearbox handle cover? Did you read the blinks? And by the way, try to reset your brains!There are connectors (2 pcs.) In a car service (at first money in the cashier) I paid 600 rubles for what they opened and looked under the hood and said that the car was not diagnosed, so you need to look at the wiring (from 4 to 7 thousand hours of work, but they can look for a whole the day and guarantees do not give that they will find IN! the car is old,,,,, _)))))), 2 diagnosticians of a private trader looked, one did not find anything at all, said the error does not show the car is working, the second found some kind of error in the wiring (the side mirror closed,the glass eventually gave a microcrack and water was poured into it - they replaced it), but this did not correct the situation. I reset the brains by removing the wire from the minus battery, after 20 minutes put it back, then it is always the same - you start the car, it oil 2100 rpm (the first time I was cheating) and podgazovat itself, but within an hour the rpm gradually falls to the desired level and in subsequent factories all the rules. And you do not know how to diagnose yourself, what you need to know for this, which program is installed on the beech and which error codes where to look?Type in a search engine (at least Yandex) -blink codes. And climb the sites. There you will find a table of codes and a lot of faqs about the blinks. It takes a very long time to explain. that's not all (it is better to throw off the connector from the brain) .Then it is necessary to start the engine WITHOUT the GAS PEDAL! for 5-10 minutes. wait 5 minutes, then start again 5-10 minutes, and then wait again and again. After this, the brains get up to the factory setting . Blinks need to be read before this procedure, every brain picks up errors. Go to VWTS, find a search, write the blink codes and lazy there according to the answers. Good luck! Zy. I saw the local video about blinks in Yandex.Well, are there results or what ?! And by the way, I regulated the TPS, it is done elementary. You need fault codes, without them you will change everything!Damn, I wrote you an answer in the general comments of the comments ..., now I'm in a hurry and then I'll write.DTV of the sucked-in (and not the surrounding) In the valve, the current membrane may be damaged - unscrew the four screws and everything will be clear Right. (By the way, are there seals on the TPS? or is it screwed on in a different way) Don't sin on the brains of the pack. The links should tell everything. Remember that by turning off the potentiometer you will immediately get an error in memory.So much for the wiring! If on our cars (old ones) it's a scourge. Over time, the wires dry out, the insulation cracks and the wire breaks. You won't see it in a bundle. And even worse, if the wire inside breaks. picking in the engine compartment raised this problem. I noticed that the cold wiring is oak-warmed up, became softer. By the way, this also applies to plastic. Be careful in cold weather! You can also check the lambda with a tester (approximately). On a warm engine, the multimeter shows from 0.5 to 0.9 V. Yes, more than 1 blamba in the trash. They bought my son a JPgroup lamba, 700 rubles. Nothing, it works. ZY. To the connectors the wires are covered with rubber, move the tip and check with passion! The wire usually breaks near this tip or inside it.My trade wind has a lambda with one wire. And I didn’t get diagnosed again today. The diagnostician said that he had a car in the garage and it was working, then the car again and, in short, the meeting was postponed to the next week. So I can't say anything. Except that the car is again inadequate, it continues to twitch and vibration, that is, then no ... generally unstable work. As you said, first on the diagonal, then it will be clear. While I stop changing something by typing, starting from assumptions ...Pralno decided.Blamba and I have one. One multimeter probe to this wire, 2nd to ground. Indications from 0.45 to 0.9V. (On a heated one). I meant everything that you see in the engine compartment. Does it mean that you have a monojetronic?Understood thanks . It is clear about the lambda. How did you set up the TPS?Pralno decided.Blamba and I have one. One multimeter probe to this wire, 2nd to ground. Indications from 0.45 to 0.9V. (On a heated one). I meant everything that you see in the engine compartment. Does it mean that you have a monojetronic?And how much should the OXYGEN SENSOR show when not hot (for example, at room temperature)?Lambda cannot be checked like that, but I will try to find it on the VWTS about the TPS.