DIY monitor repair acer al1716

In detail: do-it-yourself acer al1716 monitor repair from a real wizard for the site my.housecope.com.

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mod AL1716B, version AL1716Bs, P / n ET.1716P.184
Power supply AS05B510031 06100508B DCWP

= SG6841S if I'm not mistaken.
compare strapping

We immediately understand that the body does not strive to divide at all, into 2 halves, which means it is holding something else. So damn latches, we think, and quietly hope it's not glue. Note that glue, thank God, is not usually found. But in my practice, I came across a monitor that someone had tried to reanimate before me, could not, and having broken almost all the latches when disassembling the device, I just glued it with superglue, like I’m not me and I wasn’t standing here.

Different manufacturers place the latches in different ways, the design is slightly different, but the principle is the same for all. So if we do everything carefully, and without haste, we are guaranteed success.

In future events, I highly recommend move the matrix away to a safe place.
In the block, we see 2 boards. The one that is larger, judging by the network connector located on it, is the power supply, and the second one is small - the monitor itself, as such. We unscrew the screws securing both boards, remove and disconnect them.

As the hero M.A. Bulgakov, sturgeon is only the first freshness, it is also the last. So, if anyone does not know, the caps of capacitors (I will make a reservation, serviceable capacitors) are only flat, but not convex in any way.
Yes, comrades, I know that the flat cap of the capacitor does not indicate its serviceability, BUT the convex cap definitely yells that the condenser is a corpse.

We do not need faulty parts in the patient, so we change all swollen capacitors. When replacing capacitors, it is important to observe the polarity, and of course it is worth setting the same ratings that were set by the manufacturer, but if there are no exactly the same ones, you can slightly overestimate them. For example, at the time of this repair, I ran out of 1000mf x 10v. Yes, I know not the case, but 1000mf x 16v will work just as well. Note that it is possible to overestimate the ratings (within reasonable limits), but putting 1000mf x 6.3v in the same place is completely undesirable.

Video (click to play).

I hear voices from the audience that 10-volt conductors are on the 5-volt bus and 6.3 volts is also normal. But here I prefer having a margin of at least 3-4 volts (for low voltages) and manufacturers usually agree with me. Yes, our Chinese friends can save some money, but this is not our choice. We need quality!
For high voltages, the nominal step is wider, everything is simpler there. It is highly desirable to check the rest of the "non-swollen" electrolytic capacitors with an ESR tester. If this is not possible, then "recommendations of the best dog breeders" - replace ALL electrolytes of the power supply. There are only 2 of them left on this board. In my case, there was a possibility of checking the ESR and I found that the "high-voltage bank" 100mf x 400v is completely serviceable, but the small 22mf x 50v capacitor, standing in the PWM strapping, also "dried out", although the view was completely intact.

Next, we check the resistance of the power inputs on the monitor board with a tester. If we find a short circuit, we are looking for the reason, there is no short circuit, and it's nice. In this case, there is no short circuit, which means that you can connect the power supply unit to the monitor board, return all the loops to their place and turn on the monitor (of course, without completely assembling it yet). I always make the first switch-on "through a light bulb", that is, a 200V x 60W lamp is connected to the phase conductor break on my test cable.
Using this simple "gadget" will allow you to see the malfunction of the power supply, and not burn out problems that have not yet been noticed. The principle of operation is simple to the point of banality: "If the lamp lights up when the device is started, or the filament is very hot, there are probably problems."When starting a powerful pulsed power supply unit, a SHORT-TERM, duration up to a maximum of 0.5 seconds, a flash of the lamp is possible (the high-voltage capacitor is charging). This is fine.

I'll make a reservation right away, it was a very simple renovation. But there are at least a third of such repairs in my practice.
The difficulties in electronics repair are usually much greater.
And if the respected public is interested in this article, when entering other equipment for repair, I will describe it as well.

Problems here are 650-700V, you need to check the datasheet matrix, what is the consumption of the backlight, by volume 7.5mA (650V) for each lamp 5W capacity. The best inverter product is CCFL. A mistake is expensive.

Anything can be the cause of the malfunction, the search methods are different for everyone, but it is worth starting it naturally by checking the power supply.

Of course, if you bypass the protection scheme.

You can, like foolishly, break something. But why do this, if the year is 2011 and the lamps are on sale.

A red glow indicates a lamp malfunction due to which the inventor goes into defense, for checking it is necessary to throw a known working lamp (for example, with a broken matrix), and replace it according to the result.

You can simply hang a 170 peak 3kV capacitor instead of a lamp. And there is no need to bypass anything. The same capacitor can be left instead of a faulty lamp - as practice shows, 3 lamps are enough for comfortable work.

The simplest way to check lamps is to evaluate the amplitude at the cold ends of the lamps with an oscillator - a faulty one is found this way in less than a minute.

Basically, what was the question, and so was the answer.
That's just why exactly 170 peak, and not 47 pF, 68pF 470pF and so on. or at least some kind of resistor with high resistance and wattage, as is advised in many forums, for repairing monitors, although I myself had to sculpt something instead of a lamp, due to its absence, to make a monitor

... And in order not to open the matrix once again, I still think that bypassing the protection circuit is easier and faster than looking for the corresponding equivalent load, that is, you will always have to select it, because the lamps are of different lengths (have different power).
But the best and correct option is to buy lamps (all the more it is not difficult to get them in the city of Moscow) and put them where they should stand, so that an incorrectly selected, so to speak equivalent does not burn out the inventory along with the power supply , when at least one or all together, the old lamps will start to feel bad, for example, during the warranty period.

A malfunction in this monitor model most often occurs in the form of periodic spontaneous shutdown. It happens that the monitor cannot be turned on at all, but only the LED indicator blinks, sometimes there is simply no backlight, and only a slightly visible image in an external bright light. Let's start disassembling the monitor by removing the rear plastic cover that covers the stand mount. The photo below shows the latches that need to be snapped off. After removing the cover for further disassembly, it is necessary to unscrew the eight screws circled in the figure.

We turn the monitor over and carefully pry on the latches around the entire perimeter of the case. Under the back cover there is a bunch of cables and a metal cover, under which are the power supply and backlight boards. We unscrew the screws that secure this cover, but first, we take out the connectors of the wires of the backlight lamps.

We also carefully disconnect the cables that follow to the matrix board. In addition, do not forget to unscrew the screws securing the power connectors, DVI and VGA.

Now you can remove the metal cover, under it are the printed circuit boards screwed to the back of the matrix. On the left in the photo below is the power supply and backlight board, on the right is the video signal processing module. When viewed in the power supply, two swollen capacitors are clearly visible. To replace them, you will need to unscrew the screws securing the board

Capacitors often swell due to degradation due to overheating and evaporation of the electrolyte. We change them to new ones.We also check the rest of the radio components in the following order - fuses, capacitors, transistors, transformers. Well, we carefully examine the printed soldering for possible microcracks.

Let's consider another practical example of disassembling a monitor using the example of the ACER AL1716 model. Firstly, carefully put the monitor on the table with the display down, placing under it not a thick piece of foam rubber, or a rolled newspaper, so as not to scratch the screen. Before starting the disassembly process, you can read the service manual for the ACER AL1716 monitor.

In accordance with the photographs discussed in the manual, we proceed to disassemble the case.

From the back side of the monitor case, remove the decorative cover, under which four screws are hidden, unscrew them.

After that, effortlessly detach the monitor mount

After that, with the help of a special screwdriver, or in extreme cases with the help of something flat and thin, we snap off the latches inside the case to divide it into two halves. Do this slowly and carefully so as not to break the fasteners, otherwise you will have to glue the case.

When the case is open, remove the inner frame with electronics

On the frame there are three main printed circuit boards that are closed with metal covers to reduce the level of electromagnetic radiation and the LCD itself. As you can see, any monitor with LCD technology consists of five main components:

Next, we unscrew the screws fixing the metal covers and disconnect them from the connectors with wires and get access to the printed circuit board of the power supply and the interface control board, it is in the power supply, according to the failure statistics, that breakdowns and problems most often occur.

We unscrew the screws securing these boards, and disconnect the connectors leading to them, after which any of these boards can be easily removed to replace and diagnose defective components.

If there is a need to unscrew the LCD matrix, then unscrew the 4 screws securing it to the metal frame and take it out with ease. After fixing the problems, the monitor is assembled in the reverse order. To consolidate the material, you can watch the video instruction for disassembling monitors Acer AL1716 AL1916W AL2017 AL2416W

The video file can be easily opened in any video viewing program. The information is relevant for monitors Acer AL1716 AL1916W AL2017 AL2416W, but can be used for disassembling monitors and other companies

My knowledge in the repair of this type of equipment: Beginner (taking the first steps)
Scheme availability: There is
There is a sticker on the monitor case
Model No AL1716F
Version AL1716Fs
P / N ET.1716P.231
S / N ETL460C26073100EBB404D

A network filter (pilot) fell from the table, all equipment went out, after turning on the pilot (the button clicked off due to the fall) a computer, a router, etc. earned, the monitor did not turn on.

On the board, the inverter + power supply unit (ILPI-003 Rev B) and the control board (E157925 94V-0 490401300210R) replaced all electrolytes (there were no swollen ones, for prevention).

On the mainboard, I found a short on the 3.3V line, removed the stabilizer, the short one did not go away, removed the TSUM awl-lf-1 percentage, the short one went away, rang all the small things, pierced the TVS diodes in the VGA port harness (removed).

Replaced the percent, powered main from the LBP, the monitor turns on itself without a button, green lights up for a split second and immediately turns into orange when orange is on
on the ON / OFF contact, the voltage rises to 3.3V, drops and again rises to 3.3V and remains in this position, power is supplied to the matrix, if you turn it off from the button, then it also flashes for a fraction of a second
green and goes out, if you press turn on, as described above, flashes green and immediately turns into orange.
I removed the Pm25LV010 memory, it turned out to be dead, it is readable, and each time it is read, the data is different, it is not overwritten or written
a dead hard drive was lying at hand, removed Pm25LD020 from it, readable and cleaned

What to flash and whether this mikruha is suitable (it seems as soon as the volume is larger)

24C02WI 24C04WI haven't touched yet

1.8v 3.3v 5v (on the matrix) without a matrix one main consumes 300 mA with a matrix total consumption 1A

All the photos, the diagram uploaded to the DropBox and the video of the monitor's behavior
Ma? Dl = 0

SUPPLEMENT No. 1
I asked for 25 of this
ACER AL1716Fs Chassis (Main Board): ILIF-010 Rev. A
https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2561/dump. 0-24059

now, when power is supplied from the LBP, green lights up for 2 seconds, then orange for 1 second and goes out for 2 seconds and in a circle, does not respond to buttons, consumption jumps from 10mA to 300mA
on / off 0.03V at brightness changes from 0 to 2.7V power is not supplied to the matrix

SUPPLEMENT No. 2
cleared 04 and 02 the behavior with the connected matrix did not change
if you fold the matrix, then when voltage is applied, orange lights up for a fraction of a second, then green for a couple of seconds and starts flashing, changing the color orange-green-orange-green
does not respond to buttons, on / off contacts and brightness hangs 3.3V and power to the matrix hangs 5V

SUPPLEMENT No. 3
On the forum, infa came across that this behavior can be cured sometimes by going into the service menu, holding down the auto and menu buttons, turning on the power, blinking orange immediately released the buttons, the green lights up and burns for 5 seconds, then orange lights up and began to respond to the power button, the monitor started working ...

Thanks to everyone who managed to take part.

Good health.
The Lord needs help.
Monitor Acer AL1716A. When turned on, the backlight blinks (flickers), and then goes out, restarting everything is repeated, sometimes the day will work fine. It is the backlight that goes out, the image remains, it is hardly possible to see it. I opened the conduits were changed, I decided to replace them again, effect 0. I checked everything I could ...
Searching for the problem on the Internet gave the following (from a series of frequent breakdowns):
"LCD monitor Acer AL1716 P / N: ET.1716P.014 (?)
After switching on, the matrix backlight starts flickering and turns off.
Inverter defective, power supply board + inverter FSP043-2PI01 P / N: 3BS0101313GP REV: 1.
Remove the adhesive from under the CHIP capacitors in the inverter circuit. "
So I'm wondering what it means to "Remove the glue from under the CHIP capacitors in the inverter circuit", who is in the know help.
And yet, can anyone know how to turn off the protection in this inverter?

rapenkov, No, so won't go here first https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2254/section33/topic116365.html
Conder then we know how to change!

What did you do besides this?

You didn’t do anything, but you’re going to turn off the protection.

He threw back the backlight lamps in turn, checked the diodes. When the lamp was thrown back, the symptoms were repeated ... Surprising and sometimes interfering, that sometimes it works properly. I measured it up, +5 remains low when flickering, and +12 somehow strangely grows, up to +13, then it sinks to +11.3, after switching to a dormant it becomes +12 as if rooted to the spot.

It looks like the koktakt (soldering) on some kind of lamp has disappeared. Throwing out external lamps will help diagnose.

In general, my question has two parts. More, for now, I'm interested in the first one, about the glue for the chip conder. And the second, for a more accurate measurement of the spring, it is necessary to turn off the protection.

If you just threw it back, then the inverter will not start - you need to substitute known serviceable ones. Look at the soldering in the inverter - solder. Sometimes the wire burns out at the cold ends of the lamps - but you yourself will not do this - you will ditch the matrix. do not bother about glue - not your case.

Not, I think, contact is unlikely. Disassembled Monique, to the root. I reviewed the panel with lamps, and changed them in pairs, although I do not exclude their wear, Monique is old.

Well, the case. it seems like it was described by the experts and everything fits together. And in general, for general development, it is interesting as a glue for cond. pours in.

You do not fail, but do as they say and solder the inverter trances - it will not get worse. Remove the rubber bands from the cold ends - the white wires and solder.
During SMD installation, the elements are glued and the machine is soldered - the furnace

How is it in pairs - for others ?. Or like Carlson's socks.

Radiation, Ring the winding of the I / O transformer for an open circuit.

I rang the bell. In the attached images, zero denoted zero resistance, unit impedance.

Is the resistance indicated in ohms, or is it more correct to say that this is a voltage drop in millivolts? Correct my illiteracy, please.

When the monitor leaves the PC search mode, it flickers barely noticeably and a squeak starts.
Now I will solder the transistors back and check if the image is visible.

Read also: Nikon camera DIY repair

Added by (01.03.2016, 02:03)
———————————————
Actually. I connected the PC and looked at the screen through a flashlight, there is an image, there is no backlight. Now I'll try to solder the backlight contacts, mb will help.

In this section you will find ACER monitor circuits and you can download... Moreover, you can download any of the schemes completely free, no registration, without sending SMS, directly from our website, without file sharing and other hidden tricks.

All schemes at the bottom of the page in attachments

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Perhaps the following information will be useful to you:
* If you need programs for viewing downloaded files, you will find them in the SOFT section
* If you have any questions about the repair, we invite you to the FORUM
* If you are looking for where you can find specialists at the place of residence, go to the RADIOKOMPAS section
* If you yourself are engaged in repairs, then you have the opportunity to inform about yourself in the Radio compass section - just contact the FEEDBACK section

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Today I want to share with you the experience of repairing a monitor with my own hands. I repaired my old one LG Flatron 1730s... Like this:

This is a 17 "LCD monitor. I must say right away that when there is no image on the monitor, we (at work) immediately refer such copies to our electronics engineer and he deals with them, but there was an opportunity to practice 🙂

To begin with, let's understand the terminology a little: earlier, CRT monitors (CRT - Cathode Ray Tube) were in use. As the name implies, they are based on a cathode ray tube, but this is a literal translation, it is technically correct to talk about a cathode ray tube (CRT).

Here is a disassembled sample of such a "dinosaur":

Nowadays LCD type of monitors (Liquid Crystal Display - display on the basis of liquid crystals) or simply LCD is in vogue. These designs are often referred to as TFT monitors.

Although, again, if we speak correctly, then it should be like this: LCD TFT (Thin Film Transistor - screens based on thin-film transistors). TFT is simply the most widespread variety, more precisely, LCD (liquid crystal) display technology.

So, before we start repairing the monitor ourselves, let's consider what “symptoms” did our “patient” have? In short: there is no image on the screen... But if you look a little more closely, then various interesting details began to emerge! 🙂 When turned on, the monitor showed an image for a split second, which immediately disappeared. At the same time (judging by the sounds), the system unit of the computer itself worked properly and the operating system was loaded successfully.

After waiting for a while (sometimes 10-15 minutes), I found that the image appeared spontaneously. Repeating the experiment several times, I was convinced of this. Sometimes for this, however, it was necessary to turn off and turn on the monitor with the "power" button on the front panel. After resuming the picture, everything worked without interruptions until the computer was turned off. The next day, history and the whole procedure were repeated again.

Moreover, I noticed an interesting feature: when the room was warm enough (the season is no longer summer) and the batteries were heated fairly, the idle time of the monitor without an image was reduced by five minutes. There was a feeling that it warms up, reaching the desired temperature regime and then works without problems.

This became especially noticeable after one day the parents (the monitor was with them) turned off the heating and the room became quite fresh. In such conditions, the image on the monitor was absent for about 20-25 minutes, and only then, when it got hot enough, did it appear.

According to my observations, the monitor behaved exactly like a computer with certain problems of the motherboard (capacitors that have lost capacity).If it is enough to warm up such a board (let it run or direct a heater towards it), it normally “starts up” and, quite often, works without interruptions until the computer is turned off. Naturally, this is - until a certain moment!

But at the early stage of diagnosis (before opening the patient's case), it is highly desirable for us to make the most complete picture of what is happening. According to it, we can roughly navigate in which node or element is the problem? In my case, after analyzing all of the above, I thought about the capacitors located in the power supply circuit of my monitor: we turn on - there is no image, the capacitors are warming up - it appears.

Well, it's time to test this assumption!

Let's disassemble! First, using a screwdriver, unscrew the screw that secures the bottom of the stand:

Then, - remove the corresponding screws and remove the base of the stand attachment:

Next, using a flat-tipped screwdriver, we pry the front panel of our monitor and in the direction indicated by the arrow, we begin to carefully separate it.

Slowly, we move along the perimeter of the entire matrix, gradually removing the plastic latches holding the front panel from their seats with a screwdriver.

After we disassembled the monitor (separated its front and rear parts), we see the following picture:

If the “insides” of the monitor are attached to the back panel with adhesive tape, peel it off and remove the matrix itself with the power supply and control board.

The back plastic panel remains on the table.

Everything else in the disassembled monitor looks like this:

This is how the “filling” looks in the palm of my hand:

Let's show a close-up of the panel of settings buttons that are displayed for the user.

Now, we need to disconnect the contacts connecting the cathode backlight lamps located in the monitor matrix with the inverter circuit responsible for their ignition. To do this, we remove the aluminum protective cover and see the connectors under it:

We do the same on the opposite side of the monitor's protective casing:

Disconnect the connectors from the monitor inverter to the lamps. Who cares, the cathode lamps themselves look like this:

They are covered on one side with a metal casing and are located in it in pairs. The inverter “lights up” the lamps and adjusts the intensity of their light (controls the brightness of the screen). Now, instead of lamps, LED backlights are increasingly used.

Advice: if you find that on the monitor suddenly the image is gone, take a closer look (if necessary, illuminate the screen with a flashlight). Perhaps you will notice a faint (faint) image? There are two options here: either one of the backlight lamps is out of order (in this case, the inverter simply goes “in defense” and does not supply power to them), remaining fully operational. The second option: we are dealing with a breakdown of the inverter circuit itself, which can either be repaired or replaced (in laptops, as a rule, they resort to the second option).

By the way, the laptop inverter is located, as a rule, under the front outer frame of the screen matrix (in the middle and bottom of it).

But we got distracted, we continue to repair the monitor (more precisely, for now, chick it) 🙂 So, having removed all the connecting cables and elements, we disassemble the monitor further. We open it like a shell.

Inside we see another cable connecting, protected by another casing, the matrix and monitor backlight lamps with the control board. Peel off the scotch tape up to half and see under it a flat connector with a data cable in it. We carefully remove it.

We put the matrix separately (we will not be interested in it in this repair).

This is how it looks from the back:

Taking this opportunity, I want to show you the disassembled monitor matrix (recently they tried to repair it at work). But after analysis, it became clear that it would not be possible to fix it: some of the liquid crystals on the matrix itself burned out.

In any case, I shouldn't have seen my fingers behind the surface so clearly! 🙂

The die is secured in a frame that holds and holds all of its parts together using snug plastic snaps. In order to open them, you will have to work thoroughly with a flat screwdriver.

But with the type of do-it-yourself monitor repair that we are doing now, we will be interested in another part of the design: the control board with the processor, and even more so, the power supply of our monitor. Both of them are shown in the photo below: (photo - clickable)

So, in the photo above, on the left, we have the processor board, and on the right, the power board combined with the inverter circuit. A processor board is often referred to as a scaler board (or circuit).

The scaler circuit processes the signals coming from the PC. In fact, a scaler is a multifunctional microcircuit, which includes:

microprocessor
a receiver (receiver) that receives a signal and converts it into the desired form of data, transmitted via digital interfaces for connecting a PC
an analog-to-digital converter (ADC) that converts the input analog R / G / B signals and controls the resolution of the monitor

In fact, a scaler is a microprocessor optimized for the task of image processing.

If the monitor has a frame buffer (random access memory), then work with it is also carried out through the scaler. For this, many scalers have an interface for working with dynamic memory.

But we - again distracted from the repair! Let's continue! 🙂 Let's take a close look at the monitor power combo board. We will see such an interesting picture there:

As we assumed at the very beginning, remember? We see three swollen capacitors requiring replacement. How to do it correctly is described here in this article of our site, we will not be distracted once again.

As you can see, one of the elements (capacitors) swelled not only from above, but also from below, and some of the electrolyte flowed out of it:

To replace and effectively repair the monitor, we will need to completely remove the power board from the casing. We unscrew the fastening screws, take out the power cable from the connector and take the board in our hands.

Here is a photo of her back:

I want to say right away that quite often the power board is combined with the inverter circuit on one PCB (printed circuit board). In this case, we can talk about a combination board, represented by the power supply of the monitor (Power Supply) and the inverter of the backlight (Back Light Inverter).

In my case, this is exactly the case! We see that in the photo above, the lower part of the board (separated by a red line) is, in fact, the inverter circuit of our monitor. It happens that the inverter is represented by a separate PCB, then there are three separate boards in the monitor.

The power supply (the upper part of our PCB) is based on the FAN7601 PWM controller microcircuit and the SSS7N60B field-effect transistor, and the inverter (its lower part) is based on the OZL68GN microcircuit and two FDS8958A transistor assemblies.

Now we can safely start repairing (replacing capacitors). We can do this by conveniently placing the structure on the table.

This is how the area of interest to us will look after removing faulty elements from it.

Let's take a close look at what nominal capacitance and voltage do we need to replace the elements soldered from the board?

We see that this is an element with a rating of 680 microfarads (mF) and a maximum voltage of 25 volts (V). In more detail about these concepts, as well as about such an important thing as maintaining the correct polarity when soldering, we talked with you in this article. So, let's not dwell on this again.

Let's just say that we have failed two 680 mF capacitors with a voltage of 25V and one at 400 mF / 25V. Since our elements are connected in parallel to the electrical circuit, we can safely use two 1000 mF capacitors instead of three capacitors with a total capacity (680 + 680 + 440 = 1800 microfarads), which will add up to the same (even greater) capacitance.

The capacitors removed from our monitor board look like this:

We continue to repair the monitor with our own hands, and now it is time to solder the new capacitors in place of the removed ones.

Since the elements are really new, they have long “legs”. After soldering in place, just carefully cut off their excess with side cutters.

As a result, we got it like this (for the sake of order, for two 1000 microfarad capacitors, I put an additional 330 mF element on the board).

Now, we carefully and carefully reassemble the monitor: fasten all the screws, connect all cables and connectors in the same way, and, as a result, we can proceed with an intermediate test run of our half-assembled structure!

Advice: there is no point in putting the entire monitor back together, because if something goes wrong, we will have to disassemble everything from the very beginning.

As you can see, the frame, signaling the absence of a connected data cable, appeared immediately. This, in this case, is a sure sign that the repair of the monitor with our own hands was successful with us! 🙂 Previously, until the malfunction was corrected, there was no image at all until it warmed up.

Mentally shaking hands with ourselves, we assemble the monitor to its original state and (for testing) we connect it with a second display to the laptop. We turn on the laptop and see that the image immediately "went" to both sources.

Q.E.D! We just repaired our monitor ourselves!