DIY acer v193 monitor repair

Typical monitor breakdown on the example of the model: ACER V193 HQ

bought two kander for 10 rubles, replaced it in 20 minutes, monique earned! AND IN THE REPAIR WORKSHOP IN CHELYABINSK ON AURORA, they ASKED FOR REPAIR FROM 1000 rubles. FUCKED DAMS !!

the same theme, two conduits were swollen)) I'll go look! maybe there is a broken computer in the power supply unit !?

well fucked up !! but it was impossible to say about the bolt on the lower bar. I didn’t know yet! GUYS, DURING DISASSEMBLY, DO NOT FORGET TO REMOVE THE BOLT ON THE BOTTOM PLATE FROM THE BACK OF THE MONITOR! it was difficult for the author to tell!

Two conduits burned out, bought in a store for 26 rubles per pair))

The best video on YouTube for disassembly and repair, super.

What is the size of the lamp in this monitor?

everything turned out.thanks for this video. saved on repairs and enjoyed the result.

We immediately understand that the body does not at all seek to divide, into 2 halves, which means it is holding something else. So damn latches, we think, and quietly hope it's not glue. Note that glue, thank God, is not usually found. But in my practice, I came across a monitor that someone had tried to reanimate before me, could not, and having broken almost all the latches when disassembling the device, I just glued it with superglue, like I’m not me and I wasn’t standing here.

Different manufacturers place the latches in different ways, the design is slightly different, but the principle is the same for all. So if we do everything carefully, and without haste, we are guaranteed success.

In future events, I highly recommend move the matrix away to a safe place.
In the block, we see 2 boards. The one that is larger, judging by the network connector located on it, is the power supply, and the second one is small - the monitor itself, as such. We unscrew the screws securing both boards, remove and disconnect them.

As the hero M.A. Bulgakov, sturgeon is only the first freshness, it is also the last. So, if anyone does not know, the caps of capacitors (I will make a reservation, serviceable capacitors) are only flat, but not convex in any way.
Yes, comrades, I know that the flat cap of the capacitor does not indicate its serviceability, BUT the convex cap definitely yells that the condenser is a corpse.

We do not need faulty parts in the patient, so we change all swollen capacitors. When replacing capacitors, it is important to observe the polarity, and of course it is worth setting the same ratings that were set by the manufacturer, but if there are no exactly the same ones, you can slightly overestimate them. For example, at the time of this repair, I ran out of 1000mf x 10v. Yes, I know not the case, but 1000mf x 16v will work just as well. Note that it is possible to overestimate the ratings (within reasonable limits), but putting 1000mf x 6,3v in the same place is completely undesirable.

I hear voices from the audience that 10-volt conductors are on the 5-volt bus and 6.3 volts are also normal. But here I prefer having a margin of at least 3-4 volts (for low voltages) and manufacturers usually agree with me. Yes, our Chinese friends can save some money, but this is not our choice. We need quality!
For high voltages, the nominal step is wider, everything is simpler there. It is highly desirable to check the rest of the "non-swollen" electrolytic capacitors with an ESR tester. If this is not possible, then "recommendations of the best dog breeders" - replace ALL electrolytes of the power supply. There are only 2 of them left on this board. In my case, there was a possibility of checking the ESR and I found that the "high-voltage bank" 100mf x 400v is completely serviceable, but the small 22mf x 50v capacitor, standing in the PWM strapping, also "dried out", although the view was completely intact.

Next, we check the resistance of the power inputs on the monitor board with a tester. If we find a short circuit, we are looking for the reason, there is no short circuit, and it's nice. In this case, there is no short circuit, which means that you can connect the power supply unit to the monitor board, return all the loops to their place and turn on the monitor (of course, without completely assembling it yet).I always make the first switch-on "through a light bulb", that is, a 200V x 60W lamp is connected to the phase conductor break on my test cable.
Using this simple "gadget" will allow you to see the malfunction of the power supply, and not burn out problems that have not yet been noticed. The principle of operation is simple to the point of banality: "If the lamp lights up when the device is started, or the filament is very hot, there are probably problems." When starting a powerful pulsed power supply unit, a SHORT-TERM, duration up to a maximum of 0.5 seconds, a flash of the lamp is possible (the high-voltage capacitor is charging). This is fine.

I'll make a reservation right away, it was a very simple renovation. But there are at least a third of such repairs in my practice.
The difficulties in electronics repair are usually much greater.
And if the respected public is interested in this article, when entering other equipment for repair, I will describe it as well.

A malfunction in this monitor model most often occurs in the form of periodic spontaneous shutdown. It happens that the monitor cannot be turned on at all, but only the LED indicator blinks, sometimes there is simply no backlight, and only a slightly visible image in an external bright light. Let's start disassembling the monitor by removing the rear plastic cover that covers the stand mount. The photo below shows the latches that need to be snapped off. After removing the cover for further disassembly, it is necessary to unscrew the eight screws circled in the figure.

We turn the monitor over and carefully pry on the latches around the entire perimeter of the case. Under the back cover there is a bunch of cables and a metal cover, under which the power supply and backlight boards are located. We unscrew the screws that secure this cover, but first, we take out the connectors for the wires of the backlight lamps.

We also carefully disconnect the cables following to the matrix board. In addition, do not forget to unscrew the screws securing the power connectors, DVI and VGA.

Now you can remove the metal cover, under it are the printed circuit boards screwed to the back of the matrix. On the left in the photo below is the power supply and backlight board, on the right is the video signal processing module. When viewed in the power supply, two swollen capacitors are clearly visible. To replace them, you will need to unscrew the screws securing the board

Capacitors often swell due to degradation due to overheating and evaporation of the electrolyte. We change them to new ones. We also check the rest of the radio components in the following order - fuses, capacitors, transistors, transformers. Well, we carefully examine the printed soldering for possible microcracks.

Let's consider another practical example of disassembling a monitor using the example of the ACER AL1716 model. Firstly, carefully put the monitor on the table with the display down, placing under it not a thick piece of foam rubber, or a rolled newspaper, so as not to scratch the screen. Before starting the disassembly process, you can read the service manual for the ACER AL1716 monitor.

In accordance with the photographs discussed in the manual, we proceed to disassemble the case.

From the back side of the monitor case, remove the decorative cover, under which four screws are hidden, unscrew them.

After that, effortlessly detach the monitor mount

After that, with the help of a special screwdriver, or in extreme cases with the help of something flat and thin, we snap off the latches inside the case to divide it into two halves. Do this slowly and carefully so as not to break the fasteners, otherwise you will have to glue the case.

When the case is open, we remove the inner frame with electronics

On the frame there are three main printed circuit boards that are closed with metal covers to reduce the level of electromagnetic radiation and the LCD itself. As you can see, any monitor with LCD technology consists of five main components:

Next, we unscrew the screws fixing the metal covers and disconnect them from the connectors with wires and get access to the printed circuit board of the power supply and the interface control board, it is in the power supply, according to the failure statistics, that breakdowns and problems most often occur.

We unscrew the screws securing these boards, and disconnect the connectors leading to them, after which any of these boards can be easily removed for replacement and diagnostics of defective components.

If there is a need to unscrew the LCD matrix, then unscrew the 4 screws securing it to the metal frame and take it out with ease. After fixing the problems, the monitor is assembled in the reverse order. To consolidate the material, you can watch the video instruction for disassembling monitors Acer AL1716 AL1916W AL2017 AL2416W

The video file can be easily opened in any video viewing program. The information is relevant for monitors Acer AL1716 AL1916W AL2017 AL2416W, but can be used for disassembling monitors and other companies

Kind time of the day.
Monitor Acer V193W.
Chassis: 715G2930-1

I checked the pwm: LD7552BPS / It turns out between 1.3 and 7 pin 25 ohms. This is fine?
1 pin. Minus
3 pin. VCC
7 pin. VCC

I unsoldered it (LD7552BPS) and checked these conclusions again - it shows 25 ohms.
Compaund thanks for the answer. Logically 25 Ohm for power supply is not enough.
Right now, for the sake of comparison, I will take a similar shimka on the datasheet, and compare the resistance.

Here there is a roughly similar mikruha SG6841 measured the resistance. 1,3 and 7 pin. there is about 560 ohms.
Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

Wise electronics, tell me, is SG6841D suitable for replacing LD7552BPS?

Thank you GUGLU. Found a topic about replacing the LD7552BPS shim with the SG6841D only with a little revision.
Here's what I do with this recipe.

Guys, tell me, the same monitor on the same shim has 14v but no 5v
shima LD7552BPS to SG6841 replaced with revision, did not help
although before it was 16-18v after replacing 14v, but 5v did not appear

On the other hand, the output diode died. I will replace I will check again

In this section you will find ACER monitor circuits and you can download... Moreover, you can download any of the schemes completely free, no registration, without sending SMS, directly from our website, without file sharing and other hidden tricks.

All schemes at the bottom of the page in attachments

All files are checked by antivirus!

Perhaps the following information will be useful to you:
* If you need programs for viewing downloaded files, you will find them in the SOFT section
* If you have any questions about the repair, we invite you to the FORUM
* If you are looking for where you can find specialists at the place of residence, go to the RADIOKOMPAS section
* If you yourself are engaged in repairs, then you have the opportunity to report yourself in the Radio compass section - just contact the FEEDBACK section

Monitor circuit ACER h235h

Monitor circuit ACER X203H

Monitor circuit ACER Mits 1786FD2

Monitor circuit ACER 7254E (HP D2825)

Monitor circuit ACER AL1512

Monitor circuit ACER AL1516

Monitor circuit ACER AL1713

Monitor circuit ACER AL1715

Monitor circuit ACER AL1716

Monitor circuit ACER AL1906

Monitor circuit ACER AL1914

Monitor circuit ACER AL1916p

Monitor circuit ACER AL1921

Monitor circuit ACER AL1951

Monitor circuit ACER AL2223W

Monitor circuit ACER AL2251W

Monitor circuit ACER AL532

Monitor circuit ACER AL922SG

Monitor circuit ACER V173

Monitor circuit ACER V193R

Monitor circuit ACER V223W

Monitor circuit ACER V243HQ, V233HZ

Monitor circuit ACER X173W

Monitor circuit ACER X193W

My Acer X203H monitor is already 8 years old, and now the glitches have started with it for the last couple of months. It was a launch delay. First, the blue indicator (On) came on, followed by the orange (ST-BY), while the monitor did not light up and the lamp blinked and blinked. In general, the monitor took a long time to start up. This led me to think about a faulty power supply unit, the unit is trying to start, but for some reason it slows down. Most likely there is a short circuit, the condenders have dried up, I thought, because 8 years is not a small period, the capacitors should be changed every 5! Left until better times, time is sorely lacking.

At first, the delay did not bother, you can wait a minute. Then it took longer and longer, and as a result, the monitor started up today after half an hour, plus the image is shaking! That tore patience to the brink. Throwing all business began to disassemble the monitor, but it was not there. The Chinese cleverly hid the screw, which is only one, and to get to it they had to look for a disassembly scheme.

About repairing the Acer X203H monitor in order
The first step is to remove the caps from the rack and twist the rack.

The stand is secured with four screws. There will be another screw under the stand that secures the chassis parts. He is alone there

Using a flat screwdriver, I pry off the cover and get to the LCD matrix

The next step is convenient to put the die with the back of the case on the table, with the die down. And I lift the lid. All monitor giblets remain on the table.

I remove 4 trains
This ribbon is glued to the matrix, be careful !!

It is convenient to pry these loops from the side with a screwdriver

I unscrew the screws securing the large board and find that there are two swollen 25V 1000μF condensers on the board. So I was right.

I replaced the capacitors with 1000mkF 35V just in case. They turned out to be a little longer in length, and so that there was no accidental contact of the flange on the body, I glued the place for the condensers on the body with electrical tape

I didn’t like two singled one-watt 4.5MoM resistors, I would have to replace them with two-watt resistors. Also to replace all the remaining capacitors, there was simply nothing to replace everything with now.

This completes the repair, everything worked as it should. Collect everything in reverse order
Thank you for your attention.
From SW. Admin check

Scaler ILIF-046, formation circuit 1.8V Q110 (MMBT2907A), Q111 (MMBT2907A)

Important! Checking soldered transistors Q110 (MMBT2907A) and Q111 (MMBT2907A) show the integrity of P-N junctions, do not trust this fact. Trust our experience, these PNP transistors are only tested by replacement. Any PNP transistor will not work - if the standard voltage is 60 V, then the current is already 600mA.

Rice. Scaler ILIF-046 Rev: B 491381300100R, view from the mounting side.

Rice. Scaler ILIF-046 Rev: B 491381300100R, view from the soldering side.

Monitor data Acer

• Model No: V193A
• Version: V193Ab
• P / N: ET.BV3RE.A01
• S / N: N / D
• SNID: N / D
• CPU: RTD2120L
• SCALLER: RTD2025L
• LCD: N / D

Monitor data Acer (another monitor with a similar breakdown)

My knowledge in the repair of this type of equipment: Beginner (taking the first steps)
Scheme availability: Searching for the complete circuit on the ILPI-077 did not return any positive results

There were no signs of "life", the LED was off. I thought it was elementary that the Conder went to the beat. Monique disassembled, but the Conder was in perfect condition.
My attention was immediately attracted by the high side of the board, since there obviously the case on the LD7522 went to pieces.

Well, next to the SMD component, it melted and turned black.

Okay, I started digging further. And flipped the board.

Resistors R815 and R805 also went wild. When checked by a tester, it showed that they are in a cliff.

Polevik 2761I ended up in KZ, apparently he was struck and he is the culprit of the "celebration".

My next step was to select the elements for replacement, the main problem was to find a detailed diagram for the ILPI-077 indicating the denominations. I googled everything that is possible and impossible, I also looked in the file hosting service of the audnet, alas, I did not find it.

I would be glad either to the circuit or to help determine the following elements: R815, R805, on the back side there is a blackened SMD element (R814, resistor) (not far from the PWM)

PS: I’m even afraid to suggest that this could lead to such problems with splintering. but again I repeat, could a field worker short circuit or am I mistaken?

You can download the file after registration registration | entrance

See below.
_________________
"Let the thick and dynamite and ammonal break, I saw this river on TV!"

The last time it was edited: vodnik1953 (23:25 11-05-2011), edited 1 time in total

Excuse me, but after this:

Main task: Try to determine which node is faulty. Power supply, inverter or main board.
Check the output voltages from the power supply unit, the on / off signal, ring the semiconductor parts, check the resistances of the windings of the inverter transformer (s). The voltage you are measuring is the power supply of the processor board, it should be 5V. He's not there. Either the power supply is defective or it shuts down due to overload.
P.S. all that I wrote, from the category of assumptions (you have a monitor), respectively, all this needs to be checked.
_________________
How much has not been done in this life, but how much
still to be done.

The last time it was edited: Alex Burns (23:53 11-05-2011), edited 1 time in total

The article lists the most common monitor breakdowns. One of them is the power supply. Its purpose is to form a stable voltage. At elevated temperatures, electrolytic capacitors "dry out", due to which the voltage becomes unstable or underestimated, which leads to the operation of protection, or a lack of voltage to start. Repair of this malfunction, simple replacement of all "dried" capacitors. These capacitors are usually swollen. It is worth changing from everything at once, since you come across not bloated, but already losing capacity. This malfunction is not the only one, but it is the most common.
Malfunctions can be expressed as follows:
1. The monitor does not turn on.
2.The monitor turns on for a short time and turns off.
3. There is a whistle-like sound.

Lamp inverter unit.
Most often there are two channels in a lamp inverter. The inverter is powered by a fuse. DC voltage is converted to AC voltage through a generator and transistors. Next is given to the step-up transformer. From it, the voltage goes to the lamps, and to the protection chips.

The reason for the burnout of transistors is poor soldering or fallen off high-voltage capacitors, which are located next to the transistors. Less commonly, transistors burn out due to aging. It is worth ringing the transistors. Each channel has one field-effect transistor. Both transistors must be changed. Because during operation, they change their parameters, and replacing only one transistor, it will be very different from the second, which will lead to overload, and the second (old) will definitely burn out.

Malfunctions can be expressed as follows:
The backlight of the monitor does not turn on for a long time and goes out
When the monitor is turned on, there is no backlight at all.

Control and imaging unit
This block is intended to coordinate all other blocks. The block breaks very rarely and the cause is a "glitch" of the processor. It is treated by warming up the processor to a temperature of 300-400 degrees. It is done by removing the processor from the board and warming up for five, ten minutes, after which it is necessary to solder the processor back.

Malfunctions can be expressed as follows:
There is no image, while the backlight is on.
When the power is turned off, the screen displays “no signal”, and when the power is connected, there is no picture.
The image appears with a low resolution (for example, up to 800x600, while it does not show above).

Monitor Acer V193W - Monitors - Forum site Electron55.ru

Four Monitors (Acer V193W A / V193W Ab) were returned for repair with a declared defect “turns off after three seconds.

The main components of the monitor: matrix InnoLux MT190AW02; scaler board ILIF-046 Rev: A 491381300100R; power supply / inverter board ILPI-077 REV: A 492031400100R, the power supply is based on the LD7522PS microcircuit (Leadtrend, datasheet) and the AP2761I-A field-effect transistor (marking - A2761I, datasheet), and the inverter is based on the INL837GN microcircuit (case - SO16, analogue of TL494CD), two transistor assemblies AP9971GD (marking 9971GD, datasheet) and two high-voltage transformers SPW-105.
The most working one is in a state: when the matrix is ​​turned off, it turns on, the backlight lamps are on, the voltages on the power supply are present:
1.when turned on without a video card, first the yellow LED lights up, then blue for 5 seconds, the lamps light up U = 5.19v on both top, then the lamps go out for 3 seconds U = 5.04v (yellow), U = 5.19v light up again (blue) and go to 5.04V mode, yellow lamps are off.
In both cases, when the lamps are lit at the on / off input U = 3.23v (blue), when the lamps are not lit U = 0
2. When the video card is connected, the board spontaneously turns on, the lamps are on, the blue indicator (does not turn off from the button) U = 5.17v; on / off U = 3.23v.

03 November 2017, 10:50:24
Hello,
I had several V193Ws in the repair and all had trouble soldering backlight bulbs.

03 November 2017, 22:10:14
Thank you Dmitry for your participation and advice.

I changed it on one of the Q110, Q111 and C133 lanes, and on one of the Q804 power supplies. Rearranging the boards in places does not change the results in both cases. When turned on, 3.3 V appears on / off, backlight lamps light up (on different matrices that were thrown from other monitors), then 3.3 V disappears, again appears (lights up) with a blue LED and a yellow diode lights up, the circuit turns off. At the same time, 5.06 V of the matrix supply and 17.8 V of the inverter supply remain. When the backlight lamps are turned on, the voltage on them sags to 15 V. What to check next, if it's not a secret?

09 November 2017, 19:55:05
All the same happens without connecting backlight lamps. Does the circuit go into protection (how to check?) Or change capacitors that seem to be intact and ringing (without desoldering)?

09 November 2017, 22:47:39
Without connecting backlight lamps, it should go into protection.

10 November 2017, 15:34:03
Thank you Dmitry!
Now I am soldering all the electrolytes on the power supply unit and in the future I will test only with a load. Will car bulbs withstand 18V or buy household (27V) for the load?
Maybe there is another option?

You are joking?
Backlight lamps are not incandescent lamps, they are CCFL - (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lamp) - cold cathode lamp. The lamp is a sealed glass tube filled with an inert gas with a small admixture of mercury.
Please read the theory on LCD monitors, on the operation of the inverter that powers the lamps, in particular.

10 November 2017, 19:01:11
I read:
The protection operation can occur both through the fault of the lamp and the inverter (be careful, the output voltage is about 1000V). The method of substituting a known good lamp is the simplest and most reliable way to identify the culprit. If the working lamp is not at hand, a resistance of the order of 1kOhm-2W can be used (usually the inverter does not start without a load).

Maybe someone solved a similar problem?
If not, tell me where to plug the external 1.8V from the LM 1086? On leg 18 (BJT_B) - is the output of the 1.8V stabilizer error amplifier? It is not entirely clear from the description.
On my lane, I intend on my feet 17.19 - 1.73V; on the leg 18 - 0. (without signaling from the video card).

20 November 2017, 19:54:16
I applied stabilized 1.8 V to the collectors of transistors Q110, Q111.
No changes have occurred. It turns on, the lamps come on, go out, come on and everything goes into standby mode. discontent, upset
What to do? Where to dig?

I carried out all the manipulations on one more or less live monitor. The second half-alive (so to speak, control) in the lane and whose power supply unit I did not climb gives about the same picture. On the third, there were two inflated electrolytes in the power supply unit, I replaced them, but it did not help.
From external signs, it is noticeable that the REALTEK RTD2120L m / s processor looks relatively fresh, but the RTD 2125L, which is responsible for the resolution of the picture, is suspiciously burnt on the side of 1-12 legs, and more or less strongly on all lines.

22 November 2017, 22:14:36
You got into some jungle, sorry.
The likelihood that all four monitors have a faulty main board is extremely low.
Well that is of course everything happens, but.

23 November 2017, 17:41:36
Two of them, it turns out, have already been worn to the service and returned with recommendations “for cancellation”. I suspect that their scalers burn out, judging by their appearance and behavior before the breakdown. However, I'm not an electronics engineer, the craftsmen know better.
Anyway, thanks for your participation and advice.

The Acer AL2216W LCD monitor has been repaired with a declared malfunction - it does not turn on. We try to turn it on - it really does not turn on. Nothing happens. The light on the power button didn't even blink.

Well, let's take it apart - fix it.

Unscrew the 4 screws on the back of the monitor:

Gently pick up the cover of the stand screws with a pick:

We snap off the latches and remove it to the side:

We unscrew the 4 screws that hold the stand and remove it to the side:

Under the stand we see another casing screw, unscrew it too:

Carefully, open the body along the entire length with a mediator:

We remove the back cover, well, finally:

We see that this monitor uses the CHI MEI matrix. Matrix model: A220Z1-H01.

We pull out the lamp wires from the connectors, the loop going to the control board and the loops going to the matrix (as it turned out later, they could not have been disconnected).

We unscrew the 4 screws that hold the iron casing that covers the boards:

We snap off the iron holder of the stand first from one side:

Then, on the other hand, we remove it to the side:

Then we unscrew two screws and four pads on the side - two screws on the 220 connector and 4 pads on the DVI and VGA connectors:

The swollen capacitors in the power supply are immediately striking:

We unscrew the 4 screws that hold the power supply-inverter board:

And we take out the board from the case (this monitor uses the DAC-19M009 REV: 02A board):

We solder the swollen capacitors:

Here are four close-ups of the culprit:

Putting everything together in reverse order. We include:

The splash screen "acer" appeared, then the inscription: "No Signal". We connect it to the system unit:

Working. We put it on a four-hour run, with periodic on-off.Everything works fine. The repair is over.

All photos were taken with a Kodak EasyShare C1530 camera.

Typical monitor breakdown on the example of the model: ACER V193 HQ

Berdiansk Repair of: * Monitors * Laptops * Televisions * Netbooks * Tablets * Printers * Modems * Routers * Audio systems * Power supplies * UPS / UPS * Diagnostics Setting up: * Installing windows (License) * Installing linux * Installing drivers * Installing Windows programs / Linux * Configuring Windows / Linux networks * Recovering information * Treating viruses * Removing banners

They asked me to repair the monitor. The problem is, as always, with capacitors.

From China, a lot of chips come from a trash heap of unknown performance.

Do not throw away the old non-working monitor from it you can make an unrealistically cool device that should be in every home. If your monitor has stopped working and there is no point in repairing it, do not rush to throw it away. There are many useful parts in it. In this video you will see how to make a device for your home with your own hands, which will delight you for many years. Never throw away a non-working monitor. Enjoy watching everyone. Your subscription is the best help to the Musiy4uk channel - a channel of homemade products and interesting ideas. This is a channel that shows how you can make useful homemade products with your own hands from trash at home. You will see homemade products from electronics, paper crafts, various gadgets and life hacks. If you like to do everything yourself, then this channel is for you.

We roll the power controller with mt6322 paste, the phone does not turn on, does not boot, there is no sound, the microphone does not work

They asked me to repair the monitor. The problem is, as always, with capacitors.

Artyom Alexandrov: Upper class. A screwdriver on plastic. After that, I don't want to give it to the SC.

DIY Acer monitor repair

Remote computer assistance via the TeamViewer Internet, virus cleaning.

SUBSCRIBER REPAIR: Acer AL1916s Monitor Does Not Turn On

"Akseum" company: (enter the remonter promo code at the end of the order) Repair of monitors -

White image on ACER monitor - Repair

The ACER monitor is under repair. When you turn on a white screen instead of an image, we repair! If you are interested in "Nishtyaki".

repair acer monitor v193a (backlight)

standard malfunction of the acer v193a monitor. If the backlight disappears, blinks or does not turn on at all.

Aser V193HQV monitor repair

Repair of the Aser V193HQV monitor.

Acer v193W monitor backlight problem

Track used: Lena Rogovaya - Road Repair of the backlight in the Acer v193W monitor.

Acer v193 monitor won't turn on, amber light blinking, repair

Do-it-yourself simple repair of the ACER 193 series monitor. The malfunction is as follows: “does not work, does not turn on, indicator.

Acer v 193 monitor repair

They asked me to repair the monitor. The problem is, as always, with capacitors.

Disassembly and repair of the ACER V193 HQ monitor

Typical monitor breakdown on the example of the model: ACER V193 HQ.