DIY samsung 913n monitor repair

Actually, the problem is that when the power cord is connected, the power indicator immediately lights up and that's it: The screen is black, there is no menu, it does not respond to the power button. When connected to a computer - the same thing.
Model 913 N
Code: MJ19ESKSB / EDC
Main board
Model MJ_GY2
Rev MP1.1 2005: 06.30
Samsung magic color SE16AWL-YES
I could not read the second microcircuit.
I did not find any problems in the power supply: the capacitors are intact, the voltages correspond. In general, there are no comments on the BP.
It is noticed that when the monitor is connected to a computer "hot" - the computer does not react in any way (when connecting others, it blinks).

Please point in the right direction!
Photo in high resolution https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2693/i600/1610/f8/6f00e0d5adc5.jpg

my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2255

Posts: 2951

A SAMSUNG SyncMaster 913N monitor with no signs of life was brought for repair. An autopsy showed that the power supply burned out, the TOP246NY PWM controller tore in half, knocked out a 2 A fuse, everything seemed to be standard. But that was not the case, the repair was delayed for several months.

The owner really wanted his monitor back so badly that there was no time to take a good picture of everything. Therefore, I will briefly tell you the history of the repair with a minimum of photos.

Since the malfunction is so obvious, the burned out PWM controller was removed, all the piping and secondary circuits of the power supply were checked, everything was normal. Instead of a fuse, a 60-watt incandescent lamp is connected to safely turn on the power supply. I had one PWM, I installed it, collected everything and tried to turn on the monitor. There was a hurry, they wanted to pick up the monitor as soon as possible. The protective lamp flashed briefly - the power supply started up, secondary voltages appeared and disappeared, and the lamp suddenly lit up with an even light, although the PWM did not fly apart, it went into a short one.

That's it, we’re in a hurry! I bought TOP246NY with a margin and calmly began to figure out what was the matter. After the next replacement of the microcircuit and checking, just in case, optocouplers, zener diodes, etc. etc., the power supply was started but without the main board.

He started normally, but the standby output voltage, which should be 5 V, floated from 4.3 to 4.8. Suspicion fell on the filtering capacitor 100 μF 450 V. It was thoroughly glued into the board and outwardly did not arouse any suspicion. But as soon as I touched the right leg with tweezers, it became clear that it burned out inside the case and instead of a constant voltage we got a pulsating one, which apparently knocked out the PWM controller after the first replacement.

The capacity was replaced, the voltages returned to normal, the protective lamp was removed, a 2 A fuse was installed. The power supply board returned to the chassis, but alas, the monitor does not work. The LED is on, we press the power button, it goes out and that's it, there is no backlight, the power supply does not start any further.

Since I have already examined the entire power supply board, it remains to check the motherboard and, upon a cursory examination, there was still a problem. The punched (with a hole) linear regulator APL5522, which from 5 V, formed 2 voltages of 3.3 V and 2.5 V. It was not possible to buy a replacement anywhere in the vicinity, an order was made for Ali immediately with a margin, as much as 10 pieces.

3 weeks have flown by, the package has arrived, the microcircuit is installed, 3.3 volts is normal, but instead of 2.5 only 1 V and the microcircuit case heats up a lot, what remains? The search continues. I didn't look for the circuit, but just by dialing I found out that this voltage goes to the capacitor C406 and the 87th leg (if I'm not mistaken) of the SE7889-LF scaler.

This leg showed 0.14 ohm to the ground, no more traces of this power appeared. I removed SE7889-LF, the short circuit went away, 2.5 V recovered, it remains only to wait for the next package from Ali.

Within 12 days, the package arrived, today I installed the microcircuit in place, to the joy of the owner, the monitor turned on and is now fully functional, and as a gift he received a package with faulty elements.

P.S. What can I say about the malfunction, apparently from the long and intensive use of the monitor, the leg of the filtering capacity of the power supply corroded and burned out, the PWM controller could not stand the ripple and also ordered to live a long time. Maybe the ripple in the secondary circuit of the power supply unit damaged the linear regulator APL5522, and it has already finished off the SE7889-LE, but it can also be a reverse sequence or just 2 malfunctions that are not related to each other.

All spare parts cost 650 rubles. waiting for almost 2 months.

It so happened that once the screen of the Samsung 740N monitor, which has faithfully served me for almost 11 years, suddenly went out almost immediately after turning it on. Other attempts to enable and disable were unsuccessful, because according to the signals from the sound card, the operating system was booted successfully, it became clear that the problem lies in the monitor. Of course, a radio amateur cannot so easily throw out an old electronic device without trying to fix it, well, or raskurochit broken device for parts, then how it goes.

A quick search [1-6] showed that the most common problem with monitors of this type is the failure of electrolytic capacitors in the power supply. In general, such a repair is within the power of even the most novice radio amateur, so you can get by with the purchase of several radio components at the place of purchase of the monitor, which is a couple of orders of magnitude cheaper, the cost of your own time, of course, is not taken into account. But in order to repair something, you first need to get inside the monitor, do it carefully, without marks on the case, perhaps the most difficult part of the repair. First you need to put the monitor face down, so that the surface of the screen would not be damaged, after that you should unscrew the screws holding the stand.

The back cover of the monitor is held by latches located around the perimeter of the monitor case. To open the latches, insert a strong thin object, such as an unnecessary plastic card or a metal ruler, into the gap between the screen frame and the back cover, and then sequentially and slowly unscrew all the latches holding the cover. Under the back cover, such a spectacle appears before us. In the next photo, the cover that covers the power connectors of the backlight lamps is also removed.

It should be noted that the metal casing visible in the photo above, to which most of the structural elements are attached, is fixed in the desired position with the help of the back cover and is not fixed to anything else. Before further disassembling the monitor, carefully document the wiring of all internal connectors. True, a real chance to confuse the connectors exists only for the power connectors for the backlight lamps.

Just in case, we fix the position of the remaining connectors.

Now, from the actual screen, you can remove the casing with the printed circuit boards fixed in it.

Then we remove the power supply board.

As expected, three failed electrolytic capacitors are visible on the board.

Finally, we disconnect the power supply board and remove the protective film that covers the board from the side of the printed conductors, this film is held on 3 plastic clips.

In addition to the obviously failed capacitors, a number of sources reviewed recommend replacing the C107 capacitor for preventive purposes.

This radio part has been replaced with a 47 μF x 250 V capacitor.

Just as the reviewed sources indicated, the fuse F301 breaks down along with the capacitors. In the photo, this is a green radio component, which is visible next to the swollen electrolytic capacitors.

We remove suspicious and clearly damaged radio components from the board. The main culprits are that the author of these lines was left without a computer on May 9, 2017.

In place of the failed radio components, we install similar capacitors. Instead of a 3 A fuse, a 3.15 A fuse with solder leads is installed.

After assembly, the monitor's performance was fully restored, after three weeks of intensive use, no deviations were noticed in the work. The author of the material is Denev.

Posts: 49
Location: Moscow
Member since January 2009

Changing the cable (SVGA) and the computer does not change anything in the situation.

Does it make sense to renovate? They tell bad stories about the high cost of repairs and its low reliability.

Posts: 50
Location: Moscow
Member since January 2009

Secondly, the manager of the Er-style company, which carries out the repair, announced that the warranty after the repair is one and a half months, and the cost of a typical repair is about 3000 rubles.

It's still a pity to throw it away

Messages: 10563
Location: St. Petersburg
Registration date: December 2000

In this section you will find SAMSUNG monitor circuits and you can download... Moreover, you can download any of the schemes completely free, no registration, without sending SMS, directly from our website, without file sharing and other hidden tricks.

diagrams at the bottom of the page in attachments

Perhaps the following information will be useful to you:
* If you need programs for viewing downloaded files, you will find them in the SOFT section
* If you have any questions about the repair, we invite you to the FORUM
* If you are looking for where you can find specialists at the place of residence, go to the RADIOKOMPAS section
* If you yourself are engaged in repairs, then you have the opportunity to report yourself in the Radio compass section - just contact the FEEDBACK section

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We are repairing a monitor with two faults: it does not turn on and there is no backlight. "Condenser changed"))))).

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Why stain the connectors with a marker? Take a picture and no problem.

What if I turn on the monitor but there is no picture, but the monitor flickers are barely noticeable.

Max Igroman backlight, power supply

Suddenly it stopped turning on for me and is lit in gray, at first I thought it was in the wire, but this is not so, what could be? When you press the buttons on the monitor panel, the menu does not appear, that is, there is no picture at all.

MrSunrise2010 Check Matrix

capacitors need to be changed. the monitor is flashing and there is no picture.
It means that the current one capacitor does not give out a stable voltage so that the backlight lamps turn on. they are there 4 pieces are connected to the power supply board

Xamzat Tovsyltanov Does it mean flashing? backlight? On indicator?

Hey Ya! you can tell, when the monitor is turned on, it works for 5 seconds and then goes out. Then again you press the power button for 5 seconds. works then goes out. What is the reason?

4 of them usually. I disassembled my Samsung, they are connected to the power supply and there are 4 pieces. And there was a whistle in the monitor too. More precisely, the sound of eating is an audible squeak as if something is trying to start but lacks power. The monitor turned on itself after a while. I called the master and decided to change the condensers. With this large electrolyte, as it is called there, the rectifier decided to unsolder it and then took it back. I xs it is possible or not to check whether the part works or not without desoldering. He said that it was not possible to check the capacitor. Under the electrolyte there is a white dialectic on the board itself. Now it does not touch this electrolyte and I don’t know whether it should touch it.

soldered 3 capacitors. were green now are blue. the monitor is working. although he said that it is better to replace them all. But in fact, I only changed 3, not 4.

so I have 3 capacitors: 1000mf 25v, 1000mf 16v, 1000mf 25v

the monitor heats up more than necessary and the smell is through too much heated plastic. But everything seems to work. And xs so it should be or is it better to play it safe?

Himself a master, and how many lamps on the LG Flatron L1918S ?? And then I can see how only 3 edges of the monitor are burning from behind, the bottom does not burn ..

Alex zayzev transistors watch, inverter transformer and lamps

I replaced 2 pieces, which were swollen. Are the rest worth changing? the monitor is 9 years old. When I didn't change it, it took a long time to load the monitor, then it worked fine. There was a whistle, and the smell of log

We are repairing a monitor with two faults: it does not turn on and there is no backlight. "Capacitor changed"))))) and replacement of the transistor assembly in the inverter. We select an analogue of the microcircuit. We are testing a new flux and dosing syringes from China. An easy way to dismantle so-8 microcircuits with a soldering iron.

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The monitor came with a malfunction - green instead of black, green ripples in the image. In the process of diagnostics, it turned out that this was due to poor contact of the matrix loop. But already during the run, the image disappeared on the monitor, there is a backlight, a white screen, but there is no picture. I had to continue looking for a breakdown.

Greetings to all.
The Samsung 913v monitor itself, having worked for 5-6 years, and for another year and a half, just standing still, decided to repair it.

See the topic “Non-optimal mode. "

This is clear. I read all the topics that are here similar to my problem
but I would not create a topic if it were not for this but.
Of all the topics I read there, the messages contradict each other several times, do not warm up, do not change the percentage, do not flash the mono, then generally solder the resistor to the process.
So it works if you read what I wrote. That is, if you pull the network fast, the mon turns on and works until you change the resolution. In general, I'm in confusion.
Or some capacitors have dried up and the brain is fiddling with.

Well, changing the heel of food containers is not a problem. And in relation to warm-sew-change, start with the simplest - 50th to 5 and 6 feet. To whom it is easier, then he recommends.

This article will focus on the Samsung 152N monitor. Of course, it is not the first freshness, but still, if you are not going to go to the store for a new, modern monitor, but to repair it on your own, this description will help you. The malfunction appeared immediately, the monitor simply did not turn on, does not respond to the power button, the control LED does not light up. It can be assumed that the power supply is defective. Let's not guess, but let's start repairing the monitor.

This patient has no fastening bolts on the back cover, but only latches, which must be carefully unfastened so as not to break off:

Then we unscrew the two bolts and remove the protective screens:

Disconnect the indicated connectors:

Now you need to disable the network key:

Everything can now be separated from the electronics unit. to. panels. To remove the power supply board, you need to unscrew four screws and disconnect the scaler board connector:

On visual inspection, the first thing that caught my eye was the four swollen capacitors. This indicates that there was an increased voltage in the output circuits of the power supply. monitor Samsung 152N... Therefore, most likely the main malfunction lies with the impulse network converter. It's worth checking the 120 uF / 450v capacitor right away:

In my case, the capacitor was open. After replacing defective capacitors and collecting all the nodes together, we check the performance of the monitor power supply:

As you might expect, not everything is so simple. The monitor did not work. The fact is that this power supply is built on microcircuit TOP247F, which is very sensitive to the shape of the supply voltage. And since we had a dry smoothing capacitor, the microcircuit was powered by a voltage that had ripple, which had a very detrimental effect on the TOP247F. In this case, there was a breakdown on the first leg. The microcircuit will have to be replaced with a new one:

I didn't have such a microcircuit, I had to order it. In the meantime, it will be brought in, you can start checking the weak points. since monitors with experience, such as checking the power transformers of backlight lamps. This device has four high-voltage transformers.

Resistance of secondary windings arranged in the following order:

• T1 -991 ohm
• T2 -990 ohm
• T3- 982 ohm
• T4- 992 ohm

We do not have a wide spread in resistance. So everything should be all right. Lamps can only be tested by connecting them to a high voltage power source.

Finally, they brought me a microcircuit. True, it is in the wrong case, new in TO-220-7S, and the original in TO-263-7S:

The new TOP247F has a hole for attaching to the radiator, it will have to be removed, otherwise this tab will stick out, and you will not be able to fit the power supply board in its place. We take the sides of the cut and bite off the excess. We process all remaining burrs with a file:

Be sure to apply heat transfer paste before reinstalling the microcircuit. When soldering, do not overheat the pins of the microcircuit, use a temperature controller for a soldering iron.

Everything. We connect the connectors to their places and check the monitor in operation. My Samsung 152N came to life immediately. To calm the soul, you can try on the modes. There were no deviations from the norm.

We assemble the device in reverse order. And we enjoy the work done.

They brought 2 samsung monitors for repair - 940n and 740n. Most often, these devices have problems with the power supply, but, interestingly, there are several modifications of these same units for the forties models. Our guys got one modification for both seventeen and nineteen inch models. Accordingly, we will describe the repair of this modification here.

The first thing to do is to look at the display from different angles (preferably with the D-SUB cable disconnected, which VGA goes to the video card). If it is noticeable that the inscription “cable not connected“Then this is our patient. The backlight does not work for the patient, and everything else is normal.

Of course, in order to fix this beast, it needs to be disassembled. This is done quite simply - remove the leg and half the body. I half the body using this blue piece that looks like a pick (photo below). You can buy it in most radio markets and one such thing costs about 15 rubles. It is not suitable for any technique, but for both monics, one such was enough for me.

After all the latches are unhooked, put the monitor with the display down and remove the plastic cover. The next step is to remove the casing that protects the wires going to the backlight lamps and unhook the loop 2, circled in blue. The cover can also be removed easily with a small, thin, flat screwdriver. After removing the casing, we detach the wires supplying the backlight (pictured below).

DIY SAMSUNG monitor repair. Typical Problem: Step-by-Step Repair
The image blinks or goes blank when the monitor is turned on.
This miracle directly indicates to us a malfunction of the power supply.
Of course, the first step is to check the power and signal cables - they must be securely fastened in the connectors. A blinking image on the monitor tells us that the monitor backlight voltage source is constantly jumping off the operating mode.
The most common reason for this is swollen electrolytic capacitors, microcracks in the solder and a faulty TL431 microcircuit. Swollen capacitors most often cost 820 uF 16 V, they can be replaced with a larger capacity and a higher voltage, for example, the cheapest and most reliable ones are Rubycon 1000 uF 25 V capacitors and Nippon 1500 uF 10 V capacitors. 105 degrees) Samwha 2200 uF 25 V. Everything else will not last long.
#repair #diy #hand #typical #problem step by step #monitor #samsung

Mukhammad Sugaipov 18 horas atrás

My monitor sometimes shows an image, and sometimes does not. What could be the problem ? I checked the processor, connected another monitor, everything works fine.

Sergey Belyaev 3 meses atrás

And Che does not open the case with an ax.

For some reason, everyone shows the easiest repairs when the capacitors are swollen. Such a repair can be done by a person who knows how to elementarily solder. You will show how to repair the unit when nothing is outwardly visible and the multimeter shows nothing. That is, a troubleshooting algorithm. And so you only force to spend time on you and there is no benefit from you.

if the monitors continue to stand, they will continue to die. There should be a clear space above the monitor for ventilation. And yes, to disassemble the monitor with a piece of iron, it's just awful. For this there are plastic tools, at worst an unnecessary plastic card, so as not to damage the plastic of the monitor.

Hello, such a case, the monitor does not respond to buttons other than the on / off button on the screen, the same image of stripes brreporter.com/v/video-onhRkiJ13F0.html does not exit this mode even after switching off. Thank you

Thank you very much, you are very interested in your teaching talent

and if at the moment the monitor is turned on, a light horizontal stripe with a thickness of 1-2 pixels appears in the middle of the screen, and under it the image floats and shakes, it dies down over time. With what it can be connected?

O T V Y R T K A: the channel of the homemaker Anos atrás

it all starts with the power supply. and then further ..

O T V Y R T K A: the channel of the homemaker Anos atrás

if the native unit has an output of 14V, 2.14A, and a unit with an output of 19V, 3.42A is available, then it knocks the monitor or can I connect it with such values?

O T V E R T K A: Home Master's Channel I will check, thanks

O T V Y R T K A: the channel of the homemaker Anos atrás

Alexander Lyubimov Anos atrás

Fine. Tell me, how long does it take for the capacitors to discharge?

O T V Y R T K A: the channel of the homemaker Anos atrás

One of these days, Sister-in-law brought me a monitor from his office. For a long time he served him faithfully, every day he pleased with various pictures, etc.))) and suddenly, as it happens, he went on an unplanned vacation.The power supply turned on, the indicator - the button on the panel was lit, but there was no picture or backlight. Having disassembled it, two problems were found, and both of them were in the power supply, the first was a blown fuse in the backlight power supply circuit:

the second - the capacitors for the power supply of the inverter were swollen (+ 15v)

Unfortunately, the same fuse was not found either, I decided to put an ordinary glass one on 3a. soldered vertically and connected with a jumper

We collect, turn on and rejoice)
At the time of the repair, there was no vga cable at hand, so the picture in the form of a running sign “know signal” is already showing signs of life)

the same monitor, since 5 times the capacitor has already been re-soldered, the latter lasts a long time =)

I have exactly the same monitor and exactly the same problem during the campaign, it is gathering dust in the closet

Classic malfunction. Not interested.

Twice I already wore my Monique Aser for repairs, the reason was it just turned off and that's it. I wonder what the problem was and what did they change in it?

I point to you for repairs to get something, but my fantasy is at its best))

Do not be afraid, the guarantee will cover all your doubts)))

))) not well with a fuse much)))

These capacitors are not for long. I wonder if the reason was a little harder to fix?

Where does such confidence come from about these capacitors? there will be a more complicated reason, we will fix it too.

Based on the experience of repair. If I didn’t post them in DIY, it doesn’t mean that I didn’t repair them. These capacitors, if there are no others, need to be shunted with ceramics. I wonder what other breakdowns of LCD monitors do you know and fix?

So write, lay out your reasons and repairs. Subscribers only ATP will tell someone who will be useful for the future. There is no need to communicate with a joke here. I'm not going to prove my knowledge and skills in the field of repairing lcd monitors, etc.

He just asked, he might not have answered. I am now engaged in industrial technology and I doubt that there will be something interesting for you.

Samsung 740n runs stably every 3 years for repair. Something was not taken into account when designing ...

Exactly the same monitor ... the power board burned out. entirely. it is easier to replace the assembly at times than to restore)))

I have an identical monitor) exactly the same crap was with him, two capacitors died. I went to the chip and dip, bought 3 in reserve, changed everything worked, otherwise there is also a picture, but there is no backlight. everything has been working for the third year already ugh ugh. aaaa, and I took the capacitors on the recommendation more or more in volume, I do not understand the values, so that they would not be covered so quickly in the future.

My SM510t is covered, backlight. The first time I brought it to the workshop, the fuse was replaced there. I bring it home, it doesn't work. I'm back. Masters like the connector fell out, inserted. I bring home-dick, it does not work. I opened it myself, the lamp connector was broken and glued to the plaster, the fuse was mounted on the back of the board by hinged mounting, and bashfully moved away from the board through a piece of scotch tape so as not to close. And the whole board is fucked up with gumboil. Nobody had opened it before them. I washed everything, soldered the fuse in place, fastened the connector, turn it on and plow! The month worked, it went out again. Again to them, forced to open in front of me. We were staring with clever mugs, then we tried to replace the lamps, but it didn’t take off. And then we got into a mess with them, they blasphemed three times and didn’t do a fucking thing, they shit more. I took it home, tried to replace all the conduits. Did not help. I inserted LED strips, it works, of course, but the strips are fucking crazy from them. I took it to another workshop, they promised to do it in a day, the third week has already reached, not a word of hearing. I called them, they say some kind of mikruha was covered, they could not clearly name the marking. Apparently, you have to go to them personally, in order to sell vigor and zeal

Well, if Monique comes to life, in the next life on the stand and on the shelf, how much he endured)))

but for me it's a matter of principle, I'll revive one dick. One of these days I'll stop by these ghouls, pick them up in any case, even though they're not alive.

My SM510t is covered, backlight. The first time I brought it to the workshop, the fuse was replaced there. I bring it home, it doesn't work. I'm back. Masters like the connector fell out, inserted. I bring home-dick, it does not work. I opened it myself, the lamp connector was broken and glued to the plaster, the fuse was mounted on the back of the board by hinged mounting, and bashfully moved away from the board through a piece of scotch tape so as not to close.And the whole board is fucked up with gumboil. Nobody had opened it before them. I washed everything, soldered the fuse in place, fastened the connector, turn it on and plow! The month worked, it went out again. Again to them, forced to open in front of me. We were staring with clever mugs, then we tried to replace the lamps, but it didn’t take off. And then we got into a mess with them, they blasphemed three times and didn’t do a fucking thing, they shit more. I took it home, tried to replace all the conduits. Did not help. I inserted LED strips, it works, of course, but the strips are fucking crazy from them. I took it to another workshop, they promised to do it in a day, the third week has already reached, not a word of hearing. I called them, they say some kind of mikruha was covered, they could not clearly name the marking. Apparently, you have to go to them personally, in order to sell vigor and zeal

Yes, now there are a lot of handicraft repairmen) now you need to ask them) WHO IS Edison) Ohm's Law) And other simple tasks) then you can entrust the equipment and then under a guarantee) THIS is also the very thing that you can lend money to a stranger) Will it or not?

Isn't it a shame to call the replacement of the capacitor and the fuse REPAIR, and even cut a post about it? You have to be more modest. At this rate, people will soon start writing about every hammered nail. Most subscribers are capable of such repairs.

How do you think it should sound if not REPAIR, WHAT IS YOURS? I share the reasons for these breakdowns for an independent REPAIR, as you noticed by the majority of subscribers, so that when similar problems are found, the subscriber, without unnecessary fuss, already has information on what and where can fail. Go to the groups for apartment renovation, etc. about every hammered nail and a piece of the wall smeared with paint, there are a lot of posts here if you don't know!

Speaking right! Let's say this post came in handy, because my kent got a monitor the other day, and I'll show him your link.

Isn't it a shame to call the replacement of the capacitor and the fuse REPAIR, and even cut a post about it? You have to be more modest. At this rate, people will soon start writing about every hammered nail. Most subscribers are capable of such repairs.

I'm sorry. if I'm not mistaken, then the post is called do it yourself ... and if YOU are a guru in these matters, then I see no reason for YOU to write something here ... NO OFFENSE
For me, as for a teapot and a person who has just taken a soldering iron in his hands, such posts are only in +
And I personally will be glad if I turn to you with advice and get support ...
Hope for understanding!