In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a monoshock from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
We continue to get acquainted with the next instructions for repairing shock absorbers. What is a monoshock? This is an inverted shock absorber (with the stem at the bottom). There is oil at the bottom of the shock absorber and high pressure gas at the top of the shock. The gas in the shock absorber not only acts as a gas spring, but also prevents the shock absorber from failing with a sharp rebound and compression (a large bump or deep ditch). This shock absorber design allows them to be installed on heavy motor vehicles.
So, we are repairing the monoshock.
We start repairing the shock absorber by removing the spring. We take the most common grips. We put them on the spring from both sides and clamp them in turn until the spring is compressed and the washer that fixes it looses. Be careful when unsprung the monoshock using the available means. On these shocks, the spring is much thicker than on the backpack-type shock absorbers, and it has much more energy when it is released.
In our workshop, shock absorbers are sprung on special equipment
After we have removed the spring, set it aside. It will be useful to us only for the final assembly.
In our workshop, when repairing a shock absorber, we use a pneumatic vise for a soft grip so as not to damage the body.
Then we wash, wipe and blow through the case, after that we can begin to disassemble the shock absorber.
In our workshop we use a special stand for drilling and filling the shock absorber with nitrogen.
Video (click to play). |
We retreat from the end of the body 17 mm and mark this place with either a marker or a core. After you have marked the future hole, take a drill with a diameter of 4 mm., And as straight as possible, holding the drill at an angle of 90 degrees, drill the hole.
Gas should come out. If oil comes out with gas, then the pneumatic piston is at bottom dead center. This, of course, is not very good, but fixable. There are several solutions to this problem:
1. You are trying to gently pull out the piston through the drilled hole with a thin screwdriver.
2. You drill another hole at the mount of the silent block and push the piston out with either a thin screwdriver or a jet of air. Naturally, then this hole will need to be welded.
In both cases, it will be necessary to replace the piston O-ring and caprolon guide.
If you have a damaged piston in the shock absorber and you need to make it, you can always contact our company for help.
If you drilled a hole and the piston is higher, do not forget to insert a small rivet there or use the available tools. This will be the simplest stop for the piston to keep it from dropping to bottom dead center. You can even wrap this place with paper tape, this will keep the stopper in place and prevent it from falling out of the hole.
We continue to disassemble the shock absorber. After we have released the gas, you can unscrew the lug from the shock absorber rod (if this is provided for by the design). Do not unscrew the lug until you have released the gas from the shock absorber! Take care of your forehead. Then we lift the top cover and upset the sleeve with the oil seal to remove the retaining ring.
The retaining ring is removed. We take out the shock absorber rod, pour the remaining oil into a previously prepared container. Wash, blow and wipe. It is recommended to wipe the shock absorber parts either with a paper towel or with a cloth that does not give lint and does not crumble into fine threads.
We take the shock absorber rod and disassemble it.We unscrew the nut on the rod and remove the bypass piston with a plastic clamp. This will save you time during assembly and nothing to lose during repairs. And it is very convenient to blow the piston after washing. If the thread in front of the nut is rolled, use a file, or a grinder, or a sharpener, but remember to wrap the bypass piston with paper tape before removing the thread. This will save the piston from excess dirt and possible mechanical damage.
Next, we disassemble the cover in which the oil seal is located. We take out the rubber bump stop, take out the washer and take out the cuff.
We wash the sleeve and blow it with compressed air. The assembly takes place in the reverse order. We insert a new cuff, then a metal washer and fix it with a rubber bump stop. The shock absorber can now be assembled.
We put on a bump stop, if it is not there, then we go to a car shop and buy a Zhiguli silent block. It should fit almost perfectly on the shaft. If there is an opportunity to overpay a little, buy a polyurethane (yellow) silent block, it will serve you much longer than a regular rubber silent block made of non-oil-resistant rubber. Trim it if necessary.
Then we put on the assembled sleeve with an oil seal on the rod, put on the bypass piston and tighten the nut. Do not forget to roll up the thread. Clamp the nut in a vice and screw on the eyelet. In this position, it is convenient to tighten, because both threads work for tightening.
If the shock absorber rod has mechanical damage or corrosion, our specialists can make a new rod for you.
If you cannot find a cuff, oil seal, bump stop or shaft guide, you can always contact our company.
Naturally, after we have drilled the shock absorber body and released the gas, we will need to refuel it, without it the shock absorber simply will not work. What are we doing…
We go to the nearest tire service and purchase various fittings and nipples there. All this will not cost much, so I recommend taking each type one at a time. After we drove a couple of shinomancers in the area, we have.
Now we are guided by the situation. If the place where the shock absorber is located allows you to put a long fitting, put a long one. If the space allows you to install only a short one, then, accordingly, install a short fitting.
We take the injection fitting, apply it to the shock absorber hole, fix it with a clamp and go to a good welder to weld this fitting. Do not forget to remove the piston from the shock absorber and unscrew the nipple from the fitting before welding. Remember to check the weld seam for leaks after welding.
We put the shock absorber housing vertically, the piston that divides the shock absorber into two chambers, insert it into the shock absorber housing and rest against a thin screwdriver or awl, which we previously threaded into the nipple. Place an empty container underneath to drain excess oil before filling the shock absorber with oil. Otherwise, all the oil will be on the floor. Fill the shock absorber with oil and carefully insert the assembled rod. When the rod rests against the separating piston, it will be necessary to remove the excess oil in the shock absorber housing. This can be done with a regular syringe, which is sold at any pharmacy. After that, you can insert the bushing with the gland and fix it with the retaining ring. We take out our screwdriver or awl from the fitting and screw the nipple into it. In this case, the shaft is in the extended position.
After assembling the shock absorber, the rod must not be pressed into the shock absorber housing. ... Otherwise, you will have to disassemble the shock absorber and get the separating piston from bottom dead center
Then you take the assembled shock absorber and go to the nearest fire department or to the scuba divers. You need to pump 22-26 atm into the shock absorber. The amount of pressure depends on how much you weigh, what you are carrying with you, and who you are riding with. We usually pump 22 atm into monoshock absorbers.
In our workshop for the injection of high pressure nitrogen, we use a special booth
After filling the shock absorber with air, the piston rod must come out of the body under pressure. After that, we will be able to determine if it is assembled correctly or not. If there are smudges and oil stains on the shock absorber rod, then you will have to repeat the assembly and disassembly again, because something is not assembled correctly and is leaking oil somewhere. If the shock absorber rod is dry and there are no leaks, then you have repaired the shock absorber. Install it on your motor vehicle and use it.
- You want to fill the shock absorber with nitrogen;
- You want to repair the shock absorber or diagnose an already repaired shock absorber;
- You want to purchase a spare part for a shock absorber from us or you need to manufacture it according to your sketch or drawing (we send spare parts to the regions by mail or courier service).
We draw your attention to the fact that in our company all repaired shock absorbers are checked at a two-speed test bench, which allows us to give a 12-month warranty for the repaired unit.
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magneticman 18 Feb 2014
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Repair of gas-filled shock absorbers
A source :
Author: Nazar Gazzz
Repair of gas shock absorbers using the example of the Kawasaki Zephyr 750.
Initial data:
There is a pair of leaking shock absorbers from a 1991 Kawasaki Zephyr 750. Add. defect - the absence of rubber bumpers on the rods. On the body of the shock absorber there is an inscription stating that the shock absorbers are not repairable, and it is generally not worthwhile to climb into them, because they may explode.
The first thing you need to know for someone who is going to independently repair motorcycle shock absorbers is their device. We will try to study the basic scheme and fix the main breakdowns with the help of this article.
So, the shock absorber consists of a working cylinder with a lower eyelet and a welded bottom, a rod with a piston and its guide, and a separating piston. In the working cavity there is a shock absorber fluid, in the second cavity there is technical nitrogen under high pressure. The principle of operation of this unit: when the suspension is compressed, the piston goes down, as a result of which part of the liquid flows from the cavity under the piston through the valve into the cavity above the piston. The valve is a throttle channel, which is closed by a plate compressed by a spring.
Shock absorber problems don't have to be accompanied by oil on the stem. Let's take a look at some of the signs, in the presence of which it is worth repairing motorcycle shock absorbers. If on uneven sections of the road while driving you began to feel the "punching" of the fork, then you should already be on your guard. You should also look into this part of the motorcycle if it has become less stable than before, or the fork has become much "softer". Another signal for concern will be the phenomenon when, while driving, you begin to hear an incomprehensible noise or knock from the shock absorbers.
Using a damaged motorcycle can be unsafe and there is no need to postpone repairing the shock absorbers. After all, they have a heavy load during braking, and especially during emergency! The reasons for the breakdown of motorcycle shock absorbers can be different. For example, the most common of them are: irregular oil changes, improper repairs, breakage as a result of impacts against obstacles, mechanical damage to the stem (scratches, rust, stone fragments), damage to the shock absorber spring.
The wheel has been unloaded, now it is necessary to remove the fender and the wheel of the motorcycle. To repair the front shock absorber, you need to remove the front wheel, and if you are going to repair the rear shock absorber of a motorcycle, the rear wheel. Next, unscrew the brake caliper mounting bolts. When removing a wheel, remember the location of the parts - bushings, bolts and washers. Do not forget to inspect the bearings, it may be time to replace them too. Now you need to remove the valves. Most likely, for this you will need to remove either one or both remotes. At the top of the pipe there are shock absorber covers, you need to loosen them, but in no case unscrew them completely.
Loose covers will make it easier for you to later disassemble the shock absorber. The best way to loosen them is to use an appropriately sized hex head.
Loosen the mounting bolts and pull out the shock absorbers. To disassemble the unit, prepare a metal or plastic box for small parts in advance. Dismantling should only be done in an upright position. Drain the oil into a container prepared in advance and be sure to measure the volume of oil in each shock absorber, you will need this in the assembly. Loosen the stem fixing bolt with a hex wrench. Remove the old boot and carefully pull out the retaining ring. Now pull out the oil seal with a sharp movement, and fold the rod and spring into a prepared container.
It is necessary to thoroughly rinse every part of the shock absorber in gasoline and wipe with a clean rag. Inspect the parts for damage, damaged ones should be replaced. If there are any irregularities, the ring can be simply polished. We assemble the clean parts of the shock absorber in the reverse order, it is important that excessive forces are not applied during assembly, as this can damage serviceable and new parts. Pour new oil into the assembled shock absorber, the amount of which you measured during disassembly. We put the wheel and wing in place.
blew off the pressure in the rubber bag, unscrewed the rebound adjuster. At this stage, I already understood what the problem was: the oil was of a "poop" color and smell + there were deposits of some material in all the holes, as I understand this is the result of friction of the piston against the shock absorber walls.
We take out all the insides and clean the inner surfaces
Further, in order to install the lost bump stop and for preventive replacement of the oil seal, the entire piston had to be disassembled
another catch was expecting in it - the compression adjustment was also clogged and the inner rod did not want to move, I had to soak everything in acetone for a couple of days, periodically moving the rod, in the end it all worked. During this time, I just found a new oil seal (made in Finland) and put everything back together.
The customer wanted to do everything with minimal costs, so instead of a special (which I really doubt specialty) oil for the rear shock absorbers, I used ordinary Motule oil for forks with a viscosity of 5W.
The assembly went back, first we insert the piston into the cylinder, the retaining ring, pour oil into the reservoir tank, move the piston back and forth until the container is completely filled with oil and air comes out - the characteristic sounds in the last 3-5 mm of piston movement will disappear.
We add oil to the reservoir and insert (squeezing a little) the pear, also fix it with a retaining ring.
An advantage of this design is the convenience of pumping: the cylinders are at an angle to each other and there is a bolt in the uppermost part with which you can bleed off the remaining air when everything "settles"
In this design, the valve of the rubber bulb is an ordinary rubber band, which, in theory, is pierced by a needle, inflated and then, when the needle is removed, is sealed with internal pressure, which compresses this rubber band.
I did not believe in the success of this scheme, therefore, having made an adapter from a conventional pump (I soldered the syringe needle to the nozzle for inflating balls), I pumped amorte into it and sealed the pumping hole, so nothing would blow off afterwards.
as shown by 3 months of using amort on a motorcycle - everything is buzzing, and its owner often moonlights in a motorcycle taxi too 😉
in terms of financial costs - everything turned out within 1000r, and there will be enough oil for one more amort.
Thanks to everyone who read it.
Front ZAZ shock absorber with a spring from the rear. It can also be seen that the lower spring stop has been cut from the shock absorber body, in its place the rear spring stop is drawn.
The spring is long. Its shortening with the folded turn did not lead to anything.
In static:
They put another, short and more rigid on the bend. But there was little use either, until 2 springs from the “Ural” were attached to each other on the inside. The stiffness has increased.
But even so, the bike is too soft off-road, which is very bad at high speed: it throws it off the pegs.
High-quality repair of shock absorbers of all types
Shock absorbers are functional elements of a car's suspension that dampen bumps and bumps in the road while driving, and provide comfort to the driver and passengers. The quality of city and federal highways in Russia can hardly be called even satisfactory, therefore, diagnostics and restoration of shock absorbers are the most important items on the scheduled inspection sheet.
REPAIR IN 4 HOURS!
Shock absorber types:
- Oil - sealed cylinder with hydraulic fluid. A movable rod with a piston and a valve system is arranged inside.
- Two-pipe - "cylinder in a cylinder". A stem passes through both reservoirs.
- Gas shock absorber of a new generation, in which the body acts as a working cylinder. A separating valve is provided to prevent mixing of oil and gas.
- Adjustable shock absorbers - the driving mode is set by means of special washers. More rigid, sporty or comfortable.
- Air shock absorber - used in combination with a unique air suspension, more often a twin-tube shock absorber with ADS and gas filling
Many modern cars are equipped with non-separable shock absorption systems. Their repair is somewhat more difficult than classic racks. In some models, restoration is not possible.
Damage symptoms of shock absorbers
Official dealers do not comply rack repair, but offer to acquire new ones. In this case, the set is always paired. If the shock absorber is slightly damaged, you will have to purchase two new ones. Therefore, many service stations specialize in restoration work. Experienced specialists will carry out the necessary repairs, replace only those parts that are out of order. The service is especially relevant for used cars made in Germany. The shock absorbers on them are very expensive. Therefore, before replacing the rack, you should familiarize yourself with the typical signs of incorrect operation. It may be possible to repair the shock absorber with your own hands.
Visual symptoms of breakage:
- uneven wear on the inside of the tires;
- violation of tightness, oil leakage to the inside of the wheel;
- corrosion of the bearing part or shock absorber rod;
- cracked fasteners;
- deformation of the body;
- worn out silent blocks;
- incorrect spring position.
It is also easy to determine from the ride that the shock absorbers are not working properly. First of all, the passage of bumps becomes atypically tough, rough. New noises and knocks appear (especially if the bump stop is damaged). It is not worth checking the "integrity" of the struts by pressure on the body - this leads to even greater damage. You must immediately contact a specialized service for diagnostics and restoration of shock absorbers. Operation of a car with out-of-order struts is fraught with rapid wear of the entire chassis.
DIY shock absorber struts repair
With a basic set of tools, a quiet place and free time, it is not difficult to repair gas and oil shock absorbers. You will need a standard repair kit, a rack wrench, and a jack and stands. Procedure:
- Lifting the machine and installing the holders. Don't trust the jack.
- Dismantling. On front wheel drive machines, the spring is evenly pulled together before being removed.
- Work with a rack. Replacement of out-of-order spare parts, oil drain.
- Assembling and installing the shock absorber.
After completing self-repairs, wheel alignment is mandatory. The rear pillars are restored in the same way as the front ones. The only difference is that the work must be done in pairs.
Our service center specializes in the repair of shock absorbers - classic and modern. High-quality equipment and many years of experience. During the restoration process, only original parts and lubricants from leading manufacturers are used. All works are guaranteed.
ATV Information
What you need to know about snowmobiles?
We decided to replace the spark plugs on the motorcycle on our own, but bad luck, the spark plug broke and the threaded part remained in the spark plug well. What to do? Try to reach with your fingers or a screwdriver? Where.
It's already warm and the snow is melting. Motorcycle season 2015 is starting soon. Hurry up to get your motorcycle ready for the new season. It is better to carry out all planned works before “dry asphalt”. Moreover, there are no queues now.
Finally, our new website has been launched. Now it has become nicer and better. Our site is dedicated only to the work of the motorcycle service. Here the visitor can find out the types of work performed, the cost of work and our contacts.
Much depends on the correct operation of the shock absorber. A well-tuned motorcycle suspension guarantees a comfortable ride, you buy the bike and enjoy the ride itself. It is very important to understand that it is the suspension that provides 80% of the comfort. Unfortunately, more than half of used bikes have a "shrunken" and sometimes never serviced suspension - a front fork and a rear shock absorber or shock absorbers when it comes to classic bikes or custom bikes.
We are glad to present you a new service - motorcycle shock absorber repair. We repair all kinds of motorcycle shock absorbers! By tradition, this is a high-quality repair and adjustment on industrial equipment, and the work is carried out by professionals with extensive experience. According to the repair results, all shock absorbers are tested on a two-speed vibration table.
Now we are ready to provide the most complete range of work on repairing motorcycle shock absorbers and adjusting motorcycle suspensions: repairing and straightening motorcycle forks, adjusting stiffness, travel, replacing consumables. Now all this applies to both oil and gas-filled shock absorbers, including sports and console monoshock absorbers, as well as shock absorbers with compensation tanks (as they are cleverly called in the MOTO magazine - "backpack type").
A complete replacement of the filler is made (nitrogen, helium or carbon dioxide - at your choice!), All consumables and components are available, including rods and guides.
Terms of repair of motorcycle shock absorbers - 7-10 days. The cost varies from 2,000 to 5,000 rubles, depending on the complexity of the work.
An article on how to repair car shock absorbers - types of breakdowns, methods of troubleshooting. At the end of the article - a video about repairing a shock absorber with your own hands.
The content of the article:
- Shock absorber device
- Terms of operation
- Typical breakdowns
- Diagnostics
- DIY shock absorber repair video
An automobile shock absorber is a device that absorbs vibrations or various shocks passing from the roadway to the body. Such vibrations of various systems are suppressed by pistons operating in viscous media.Thanks to such media, the vibration amplitude is reduced.
Modern motorists are often faced with a complete failure or breakdown of the suspension system, the main parts of which are shock absorbers. Therefore, urgent repairs are required, which will save the car owner from further complications. Such repairs should begin with a detailed diagnosis.
Shock absorbers are rear and front. In order to repair such critical parts, a detailed knowledge of the structure itself is required.
A modern shock absorber is a complex device consisting of different parts. Shock absorbers are replaced exclusively in pairs. In case of damage or breakdown of one rack, the car owner will have to change both. In the process of restoration or when repairing the shock absorber, you must use the vehicle operating manual. A detected malfunction requires careful study and appropriate solutions.
The process of repairing a shock absorber must be prepared accordingly. This will require the following tools and materials:
- car kit;
- screeds;
- support goats;
- rack key;
- new cartridge.
After preparing the listed devices, you can start directly repair work.
The current safety regulations require the vehicle to be installed on pre-prepared trestles. In this case, it is necessary to set them correctly. The fastening bolts of the lever and the stem nut are unscrewed, then the fasteners are removed and the shock absorber is removed. Removing the shock absorber is quite easy if the fasteners are unscrewed correctly, but you must not forget to remove the internal thread.
After completing the dismantling of the shock absorber, you can remove the internal parts from it. First, the old cartridge is removed, in place of which a new one is installed and tightened with a nut. By replacing the cartridge, you can return the shock absorber to its place using the described steps.
After completing the repair, the vehicle should be sent to a service center to carry out the alignment of the camber-toe system. Experts also advise, when repairing or restoring shock absorbers, to diagnose and check the main elements of the car suspension, including the steering rod, brake hoses, rails, blocks.
Just like any product or part, shock absorbers have their own operational and replacement periods. Restoration or repair of the device should be carried out immediately after the discovery of a breakdown and malfunction. As for their complete replacement, it is performed every three years.
To increase the operational life, the following simple rules are recommended:
- refuse to use the delivery for lifting the suspension, which can damage the shock absorber rod;
- avoid high speeds when driving on damaged roads;
- in winter, preheat the oil in the shock absorbers.
If you decide to raise the car body, you need to take care of installing shock absorbers of the appropriate size. Awkward handling can cause rapid wear on not only the shock absorbers, but the entire suspension as well. And in winter, to start driving, you must use a low speed and low gears.
If all the above operating rules are observed, timely diagnostics, as well as repair or restoration of shock absorbers, a significant increase in the service life of the entire vehicle is possible. Repair work is carried out in accordance with the nature of the detected malfunction. Do not forget about innovative non-collapsible shock absorbers that cannot be repaired.
Every experienced motorist is familiar with the typical malfunctions of this unit. If oil leaks, this indicates a depressurization of the stem oil seal, which can cause a complete loss of performance of the part.
You should also be wary if there is a backlash during rebound or compression.The consequences will be the same as with broken valves. The device will no longer be able to perform its direct functions, and the car will emit knocks, rumblings and other unpleasant sounds while driving. Driving in such a car is not only uncomfortable, but also quite dangerous.
Of the external damage, cracks in the lugs or dents on the housings can be distinguished. Such minor problems can lead to more serious damage and even affect the chassis. Upon finding any sign of a similar breakdown, the rack is removed and released from the spring.
The best way to detect shock absorber problems is to check the stability of the vehicle itself, both at high and low speeds. The owner should pay attention to how his "iron horse" reacts to bumps or holes and how quickly it restores balance when hitting such irregularities.
If even the slightest deviations are found, it is necessary to view the shock absorbers in detail. Analyzing the state of protection, you should inspect the anthers. For such purposes, flyovers or special pits are used, allowing you to inspect both the front and rear shock absorbers from below.
If the anthers are torn or even slightly damaged, it is better to install a new protector. It is the anthers that are responsible for protecting the shock absorbers from small particles of dirt in the holes, which over time leads to all sorts of breakdowns or damage. If the shock absorber lacks this protection, its service life is significantly reduced.
Taking into account the main function of shock absorbers - to reduce the rolling of the machine on uneven road surfaces, it is quite easy to determine the malfunction. The main sign of failure of this device is an increase in vibrations and the appearance of unnecessary noise that was not felt before.
If the wheels of the car fall into the hole, then you can hear the sound of punching, which is also considered an additional sign of breakdown. So you can find out about the need for an early replacement or repair of shock absorbers. However, a more detailed study of the problem will be required.
First, you need a visual inspection of the part and its careful study. If an oily leak is found, it is imperative to carry out repairs and return the shock absorber to working condition. It should be noted that the process of diagnosing this device at the stand is a rather difficult task, so many try to immediately purchase new shock absorbers or repair struts using a repair kit on their own.
The shock absorber is considered to be a consumable item, which must be changed after a three-year period. The bad condition of Russian highways reduces this time by several times - the suspension breaks down much earlier than the period specified by the manufacturer. However, you should not despair in advance, as well as throw away the broken part. If the shock absorber cannot be repaired, it can always be replaced.
Before choosing a method, it is necessary to take into account several factors, including the cost of a new part - if it costs the car owner as much as the repair, you should not get your hands dirty. In addition, repairs require certain skills. Also, remember that a remanufactured shock absorber will not last long.
In general, a shock absorber is a multifunctional part that is responsible not only for damping body vibrations, but also for braking. It ensures the stability of the vehicle. Therefore, having well understood the essence of the operation of such a device, the driver will be able to understand the problem in time and make the right decisions to eliminate it. Even after going through MOT, the shock absorbers can suddenly creak or leak, so you need to monitor them constantly.
Most modern cars are equipped with so-called non-separable shock absorbers. This means they cannot be repaired. Unlike collapsible counterparts, they have a five-year warranty period.And on high-quality highways, they will last even more.
There are also pumped shock absorbers. For such models, the gas backpressure has been changed, which performs a restructuring of operational characteristics if the car is subjected to heavy loads. They work perfectly up to breakdown, performing the additional option described above. If such a shock absorber breaks down, it will be quite difficult to repair it.
The fact is that models with pumping during repairs overlap the hydraulic fluid pipes, which are responsible for the health of the entire part. It is almost impossible to carry out such repairs without the intervention of specialists and special equipment. And the purchase of a new part will cost several hundred dollars.
Experts recommend using only original components for repairs and not trusting cheap fakes - after all, the coherence of the system and machine components depends on this device. We must not forget that insurers, when an appropriate case occurs, intervene in each verification procedure, studying all the details in order to find the reason and, if possible, refuse to pay.
Video about repairing a shock absorber with your own hands:
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The motorcycle doesn't flow with oil, it just marks the area.
The throttle is not a machine gun trigger, be careful with it - it can kill you too.
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The motorcycle doesn't flow with oil, it just marks the area.
The throttle is not a machine gun trigger, be careful with it - it can kill you too.
Video (click to play). |
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