Do-it-yourself moped racer repair

The popularity of scooters is growing every year. And this is not surprising. Low cost, ease of maintenance, good performance make a moped an indispensable thing in the lives of many.

In many parts of the world, the number of scooters on the streets outnumbers cars. They have high maneuverability, which allows you not to think about traffic jams for residents of megacities. However, sometimes situations arise that the moped fails and does not want to start.

You can repair the scooter yourself or take it to the workshop. This is everyone's personal decision. Having decided to repair it yourself, you need to prepare the space for this. Most often, repairs are carried out in the garage.

The most common malfunctions are related to changing oil and filters. The wrong oil can cause the engine to not start.

First you need to drain the old oil through the drain hole. Then the carburetor is completely disassembled.

The device and repair of Chinese mopeds should not cause big problems for a person who knows at least a little about this.

In order to identify a malfunction of the scooter, it is necessary to check all the elements in turn. The performance of any scooter depends on the normal functioning of components such as compression, fuel and spark. If one of the elements does not work, the scooter will not go.

Fuel can cause the moped to not start if gasoline has been filled for a long time. Studies show that from a long stay in the tank, the octane number of gasoline decreases, that is, its quality deteriorates noticeably. There is only one result: a spark does not ignite such gasoline. If you know you've been fueling for a long time, it's best to Drain the old fuel and put new fuel in its place..

The second reason that the scooter does not start may be a dirty filter - fuel or air. The fuel filter is necessary in order to purify gasoline from various impurities, rust. Clean gasoline must be supplied to the engine, since the wear of many parts of the moped depends on this.

The air filter is designed to clean the air that enters the carburetor. It needs to be changed quite often, because dust, dirt, etc. constantly settle on it.

The third reason that the engine does not start may be the lack of a spark. Checking if the candles are to blame for this is as easy as shelling pears. It is enough to replace with new ones. If it was not possible to start, and the gasoline is filled with fresh, you need to look deeper for the reasons.

Having determined that neither candles nor gasoline are the cause of the malfunction, we move on.

As noted earlier, problems in the operation of the engine can be different. Very often these problems are connected with candles or with the carburetor. The spark may not jump due to soot on the candle, which occurs due to the use of a rich mixture.

There may be a small gap, which also does not contribute to the appearance of a normal spark. In a two-stroke engine, this gap is 0.6-0.7 mm. With a smaller gap, there is a greater likelihood that the electrodes will melt. Increasing the gap causes the current consumption to increase and more voltage is required to generate a spark.

There are situations when the moped stalls while driving, and then continues to go further. This occurs due to the delamination of soot from the electrode. For a while, the spark is lost and the engine stops working. After self-cleaning, performance is restored.

Interruptions in the operation of the engine may be associated with moisture on electrical appliances and wiring. This results in a loss of voltage. After drying these parts, engine operation should be restored.

A fairly common cause in our climate is water getting into the fuel and then into the carburetor.

The reasons considered are easily eliminated by the driver themselves. However, if these actions did not bring the desired solution and the engine does not work, the scooter engine should be repaired.

As for the carburetor, the causes of malfunctions can be caused by improper mixture quality. If the mixture is lean or rich, the performance of the moped will be at risk. The quality of the mixture can be checked by the condition of the candle. Black color will indicate that the mixture is rich, that is, oil is being overused. White color will indicate the poverty of the mixture and a decrease in engine power for this reason.

Repair of the scooter carburetor is carried out on a warm engine. Before that, if there is a possibility of clogging, it should be cleaned and rinsed. The carburetor adjustment itself consists of the following actions:

1 action - it is necessary to adjust the idle speed.

This action is performed using the idle screw. In order to increase the speed, the screw is tightened, and to decrease, it is unscrewed. After warming up the scooter, with the help of simple manipulations, you can set up stable engine idling.

Step 2 - check and adjust the quality of the mixture for the carburetor using a special screw.

The combustible mixture that enters the carburetor must clearly have the proportions set by the scooter manufacturer. If the mixture is too lean, the scooter loses power and overheats. With a rich mixture, fuel is used uneconomically. You can solve this problem by turning the screw. Turning the screw clockwise enriches the mixture, counterclockwise it leans. The color of the candle will indicate the quality of the mixture. The candle has a black color and soot, which means the mixture is rich. If, on the contrary, it is white, the mixture must be enriched.

3 action - set the quality of the mixture by moving the needle.

The following manipulations are performed with the needle: when the needle is raised, the mixture is enriched, and when it is lowered, it is depleted.

4 action - regulation of the fuel level in the float chamber.

Checking the fuel level is carried out by a transparent tube, which is located at the bottom of the carburetor. The procedure is as follows: unscrew the cream screw, lift the tube up and check the fuel level. The fuel level is monitored with the engine running. The tube should be held above the carburetor. The fuel level should be slightly below the curb of the carburetor cap.

Repairing Chinese engines does not cause much difficulty for most scooter owners. It should be remembered that the main fastenings of the "Chinese" are more delicate than in domestic mopeds, so you do not need to pull anything with all your might.

For example, sudden movements while repairing the carburetor of a Chinese scooter may cause pipe will be damaged. Then the muffler is removed. Many manufacturers of Chinese scooters use plastic soldering. This must be taken into account when disassembling the moped.

Manufacturers have foreseen that many scooter owners will want to do repairs on their own, so there is simply nothing complicated in the design of such scooters. The Chinese scooter repair manual will allow you to perform all the steps yourself. Everyone will be able to deal with the main problems and repair the engine of a Chinese scooter.

A scooter repair video will answer most of your questions.

A list of the most common scooter problems that you can fix yourself without the help of specialists.
Crime: the brake light does not light, the brake lever limit switch does not work.
Analytics: the lever of one of the brakes is not pressed or there is a malfunction in the brake light circuit.
Action: Replace bulb, adjust brake lever free play, or replace brake lever limit switch.

Crime: blown fuse.
Action: Check and, if necessary, replace the main and starter fuses.

Crime: the junction of the terminal with the wire is covered with a loose coating of oxides.
Analytics: The battery is not producing enough voltage, which can be due to a fault in the circuit or if the battery terminals are oxidized.
Action: check the circuit, recharge the battery if necessary. Clean the terminals from oxides.
A temporary measure is to start the engine with a kick starter.

Crime: you turned on the ignition, pressed the brake lever and the starter button, and the starter relay still does not click.
Analytics: Faulty electric starter circuit.
Actions: clean the contacts on the relay and starter, “ring out” the relay, wiring, starter windings.

Crime: when you press the kick starter lever, it scrolls, but the engine crankshaft does not rotate; the leg does not feel resistance to the movement of the kick starter lever.
Analytics: Kick starter or ratchet gear teeth broke. Action: Replace defective parts.
Crime: the electric starter turns the crankshaft, but the engine does not start.
Analytics: the carburetor is “dry” (unscrew the drain screw of the float chamber - you will see). Variants of reasons: the fuel valve filter is clogged, the gas valve is faulty, the fuel line is clogged, the gas valve control vacuum hose has jumped off or is leaky.
Actions: clean the fuel valve filter, blow out the fuel line, make sure that the automatic fuel valve is working.

Crime: fuel is supplied to the carburetor, but does not enter the pop-up chamber.
Analytics: Fuel float valve sticking.
Action: Remove the float chamber cover and clean the valve seat. If that doesn't work, replace the valve.

Crime: you unscrewed the candle, and it is “wet” - covered with a layer of unburned benzo mixture.
Analytics: Excessively rich fuel mixture, which is due to too high a level of fuel in the float chamber or due to a clogged air filter.
Actions: after disassembling the carburetor, check the fuel level, clean the air filter.
Side effects: the engine starts immediately if you splash a little gasoline inside the air filter.
Analytics: automatic start-up enricher does not work.
Action: check the health of the starting enricher (there are several ways - they are described in detail in the repair manuals)

Crime: a spark plug unscrewed from its socket does not spark (in a position where the metal part of the spark plug is in reliable contact with the scooter ground).
Analytics: faulty spark plug: broken insulator or electrodes covered with a thick layer of soot.
Action: clean the spark plug with sandpaper or replace. If a spark still does not appear, diagnose other elements of the ignition system.

Crime: a spark is formed on the spark plug, but weak or “running”.
Analytics: The spark plug has a broken insulator.
Action: Replace spark plug.

2. ENGINE IS DIFFICULT TO START, RUNS UNSTABLE
Crime: the motor does not “spin up”, pops are heard in the carburetor.
Analytics: excessively lean combustible mixture, a possible cause is sucking air through a loose intake pipe or damaged crankshaft oil seals. Water in the float chamber.
Action: replace the gasket under the pipe and evenly tighten the bolts of its fastening. Replace crankshaft seals. Get rid of the water in the float chamber (by unscrewing the drain screw of the float chamber), blow out the jets and carburetor channels, replace the gasoline in the tank.

Crime: a spark on an unscrewed spark plug (in a position where its metal part is in reliable contact with the "mass" of the scooter) is formed, but the surfaces of the insulator and electrodes are dry.
Analytics: automatic starting enricher does not work (if the engine is cold). A normal combustible mixture is not formed. Clogged idle jet.
Actions: check the serviceability of the starting enricher (see point 1). Blow out the jet and carburetor passages.

Crime: on the insulator and electrodes of the unscrewed spark plug, there are drops of water. Analytics: water infiltrated gasoline.
Action: get rid of the water in the float chamber.

Crime: a spark on an unscrewed spark plug (in a position where its metal part is in reliable contact with the "mass" of the scooter) is formed, but the surfaces of the insulator and the electrodes are covered with black oily soot (photo 5).
Analytics: the brand of the spark plug does not correspond to the thermal regime of the engine - its glow number is higher than that required for this engine (the spark plug is “cold”). The temperature in the working area of ​​the candle is insufficient for self-cleaning of the electrodes.
Action: replace the spark plug with a “hotter” one (with a lower glow number).

Crime: the engine starts normally, but soon there are interruptions in its operation and it stalls.
Analytics: the vent hole in the fuel tank cap is clogged or the hoses responsible for communicating the contents of the gas tank with the atmosphere are clogged.
Action: Clean the vent hole in the fuel tank cap or the hoses.

Crime: when you press the kickstarter lever, there is no resistance to the compression of gases in the cylinder.
Analytics: extremely worn piston, cylinder, piston rings.
Actions: check compression - using a compression gauge or by measuring parts (after dismantling the cylinder). When the diagnosis is confirmed, the engine requires repair with the replacement of worn parts.

Crime: the sound of bursting gases is heard, oily traces form on the head and cylinder.
Analytics: Damaged cylinder head gasket or loose head to cylinder.
Action: replace the gasket and tighten the nuts securing the head to the cylinder with the required torque (force) in the order recommended by the repair manual.

3. ANOTHER SOUNDS IN THE ENGINE
Analytics, version 1: increased wear of parts of the cylinder-piston group.
Action: The engine requires repair with the replacement of worn parts.
Version 2: the thermal gap in the valve drive is violated (for 4-stroke engines).
Action: Adjust valves.
Version 3: the chain in the valve drive has loosened (for 4-stroke engines).
Action: Adjust chain tension.
Version 4: grooves have developed in the variator pulley, along which the rollers move, as well as the rollers themselves.
Actions: replace the worn pulley, rollers (possibly other parts of the variator).

4. ENGINE STOPS WHEN THROTTLE IS OPENED SUDDENLY
Circumstance 1: The engine has just been started.
Analysis: engine not warm enough.
Action: continue warming up the engine at idle.

Circumstance 2: The engine is well warmed up.
Analytics, version 1: the carburetor is not adjusted.
Action: adjust the idle speed, if necessary - the main metering system (see paragraph 5).
Version 2: the variator does not work correctly.
Actions: see point 10.

5. ENGINE STARTS NORMALLY BUT IT DOES NOT SPIN
Crime: thick exhaust smoke, excessive fuel consumption, black deposits on the spark plug electrodes.
Analytics: The main dosing system is preparing an excessively rich mixture.
Actions: adjust the quality of the mixture - lower the carburetor throttle adjustment needle one division (groove) down. It may be necessary to install a main fuel jet with a smaller bore.

Crime: the engine overheats, detonation is heard during acceleration, there is a white coating on the electrodes and the spark plug insulator. After turning off the ignition, the engine continues to run for several seconds (detonates).
Analytics: Carburetor's main metering system is leaning too lean.
Actions: adjust the quality of the mixture - raise the carburetor throttle adjustment needle one notch up. It may be necessary to install a large bore main jet.

Crime: the engine runs unusually quietly (although it starts easily), low-smoke exhaust, the engine “does not pull” during acceleration.
Analytics: muffler, channels and cylinder windows clogged with soot (in two-stroke engines).
Action: if possible, clean the carbon deposits. If the muffler is completely clogged (air does not pass), replace the muffler.

6. ENGINE LOSES POWER AFTER LONG DRIVE
Circumstance 1: The engine is air-cooled.

Crime: the movement of air from under the cylinder casing is not felt, and a sheet of paper does not “stick” to the air intake grid (on the right side of the motor) (if you test with paper).
Analytics: the fan blades are broken, another assumption is that the cooling system casings do not fit snugly or are split in places.
Action: Replace the impeller and damaged casings.

Circumstance 2: liquid-cooled engine.
Crime: coolant is leaking, its level has dropped in the tank.
Analytics: system components are faulty: pump, thermostat, radiator.
Action: replace faulty nodes.

7. THE ENGINE DOES NOT ACCELERATE THE SCOOTER TO 50 KM/H
Inspection data: the speedometer is calibrated, no power or speed limiter is installed.
Analytics version 1: the design of the scooter is not designed for such a speed.
Actions: All actions are meaningless.
Version 2: the carburetor is incorrectly adjusted, the muffler is clogged, or the parts of the cylinder-piston group are worn out.
Action: see point 2 or change the scooter.
Version 3: the variator does not work correctly.
Actions: see p.p. 9, 10.

8. SCOOTER DOES NOT START WHEN ENGINE IS RUNNING
Crime: the variator is faulty.
Analytics: the spring of the driven pulley is broken, the V-belt is broken (to verify this, remove the variator cover - breakdowns are perceived at a visual level).
Action: Replace defective parts.

Crime: faulty centrifugal clutch.
Analytics: shoe springs are broken, shoe linings are excessively worn (it is found out during visual inspection after removing the variator cover) (photo 9). Action: Replace defective parts.

9. SCOOTER JERKS
Crime: when driving, jerks are felt.
Analytics: CVT belt slipping (due to wear, damage or oiling) or excessively worn pulley surfaces.
Action: replace defective parts (photo 10).

10. SCOOTER ACCELERATES SLOWLY, RIDES SLOWLY
Analytics: In a recent tuning, the weights of the centrifugal governor or the spring of the driven pulley are not correctly selected. Centrifugal clutch shoe springs are broken or have lost stiffness, centrifugal clutch shoe linings are worn or oily.
Action: carry out tuning more carefully, preferably with the participation of specialists.

Then listen to me here: It's because of that Japanese carburetor that is installed on it. Throw it the fuck out and go to where they sell carburetors for the Krot motocultivator.

This carburetor is actually Soviet, ancient, which was put on Soviet mopeds and had a well-deserved “Quality Mark”. I have been looking for this in garages for three years, but I did not know that these things are still produced and used in agricultural machinery. Learned by accident, bought instantly. I ordered a turner flange-adapter from the carb to the cylinder. He made it for me for 250 rubles.

Throttle cable: we throw out the bent tube with nuts so that only the cable jacket remains, and the cable itself protrudes from it by 5 centimeters. We bend the tip of the cable 5 millimeters and press it against the cable, wrap the bent section with a straightened paper clip - this is how we get the tip of the desired shape and get by without soldering. The tightly wrapped tip fits snugly into the choke groove.

Please note that this carburetor does not have a starting heater. To start a cold engine, it has a lever that must be pressed. He will be fixed. At the same time, the mixture is enriched by restricting air access to the carburetor. The fixation is reset automatically when the throttle stick is turned to “full”. This carburettor also has no vacuum chamber to operate the needle and choke piston, as well as no needle, and it works perfectly. The engine breathes smoothly. The moped just flies. Google will tell you the adjustment method so that I don’t produce unnecessary letters that are already on the Internet.

The carburetor itself cost 900 rubles. That, perhaps, is all.

In order for an internal combustion engine to work, it needs three components: fuel, spark, compression. The main slogan of motor mechanics is “miracles do not happen”. It must always be remembered that if, when troubleshooting and scooter repair it turns out that there is a spark, there is compression, fuel comes in, but the engine does not start, this, as a rule, only means that one of these components is actually missing.

Too lazy to give the scooter for repair and pay money for it. Familiar situation. Then it's time to take up repairs with your own hands.

The basic principle of troubleshooting and repairing a scooter is to step by step eliminate the elements of the system, trying to identify the cause of the malfunction in one of them. It is necessary to search and repair strictly sequentially, from the very beginning of the chain to the very end. That is, for example, in the absence of a spark, you should not immediately change the switch. First you need to make sure that the generator is “alive” with us, then test the wiring. Etc.

An important note: if you have a device in front of you, which, according to the owner, “used to work like clockwork”, it makes sense to ask if old gasoline is poured into the tank. A couple of months of storage is enough for gasoline to lose its octane rating to such an extent that it loses its ability to ignite.

It is important to remember that before making a final diagnosis and starting to repair the scooter, you need to make sure that a knowingly working spark plug is installed on it, and the carburetor is also functioning normally.

In addition, you need to know that the correct operation of the engine (even at idle) is closely related to the correct operation of the variator, clutch, as well as the camshaft and valve group. In other words, with normally functioning power, ignition and CPG systems, the problem may be, for example, in the transmission, since the crankshaft torque is directly transmitted to the variator.

When carrying out diagnostics and repairs, it must be remembered that under certain circumstances that led to the need scooter repair, it is necessary to check not a single element, but the entire system. For example, if the carburetor is clogged, provided that the air filter is intact and impregnated, it is necessary to check for dirt in the gas tank and fuel filter. If the scooter has been driving for a long time without an air filter, or with an unimpregnated filter, then everything must be checked: the CPG, the crankshaft and the main bearings.

Below are some of the problems that may occur, as well as the main steps to resolve them. The links indicate the places where you can find information on this item.

Any, even the most advanced motorcycle equipment needs careful handling and professional care. The engine is the heart of the Alpha moped. Against the background of incorrect handling of it, the consequences can be unpredictable.In order to avoid the risks of irreversible damage to the moped, it is important to know how to independently disassemble and assemble the engine of this model. Making repairs is easy. This will require experience, as well as knowledge of some of the nuances.

The engine of the Chinese Alpha moped has characteristic features, thanks to which fans of motorcycle technology prefer this particular model.

Engine size - 72 cc. With the right approach, it can be upgraded to 110 cc. Also, if desired, you can increase the speed by 10 kilometers.

The weak point of the engine is the gearbox, which requires close attention and a delicate approach.. When repairing the “heart” of a moped, you need to know how to correctly disassemble and assemble this part of the motorcycle “organism”.

Alpha is equipped with a powerful engine, the circuit of which is complex. If you can’t figure it out on your own, it is recommended to contact an experienced specialist. The cost of repairs is quite affordable.

The Chinese Alpha moped, the price of which is democratic, does not cause many problems for the owners. Interruptions in the moped engine have several reasons, having dealt with which, you can quickly fix the breakdown.

Dismantling the moped engine

So, if the engine starts with great difficulty, the muffler “shoots”, and smoke comes out of the pipe, then the moped is “naughty” due to problems with the carburetor. In order to solve this problem of the Alpha moped, you must:

• clean the carburetor;
• thoroughly clean the air filter of the moped;
• tighten screws;
• adjust the moped carburetor.

If Alpha slowly picks up speed, and its engine is not able to develop the declared power, then the reason lies in the incorrect operation of the moped valves. It can also “get sick” due to gaps and an incorrect timing phase. In order to make the Alpha moped function normally, it is necessary to replace the used valves with new ones.

If the Alpha moped is not able to develop the desired speed, despite the roar of the engine and solid speed, it is impossible to stop the spinning wheel, and the gear shift is intermittent, then the cause of the malfunction is clutch wear.

To fix the breakdown, you must do the following manipulations:

• remove the engine;
• remove the plastic cover;
• unscrew the clamping screw;
• unscrew the adjustment mechanism and tighten the screw tightly;
• start a moped;
• turn on the first speed and drive a few meters.

Another cause of moped engine failure may be wear on the drive sprockets. If they are worn out, they must be replaced with new ones.

You may experience engine overheating problem. You can correct the situation after adding oil. If oil leaks out, seek professional service immediately..

Alpha moped engine overheating

Disassembling the Alpha engine is quite simple. For this you need:

• “arm” with a key;
• unscrew the bolts on the intake manifold (by 10);
• unscrew the cylinder covers and the bolts located there (4 pieces);
• remove the cylinder head.

After carrying out the necessary manipulations, it is necessary to properly assemble the engine by installing all the parts in place.

A diagram can help you figure out the nuances. Also, a lot of useful tips on repairing the most important "organ" of the Alpha moped are contained in the training video.

It is necessary to disassemble the gearbox in order to replace used parts. This is done after the following parts have been dismantled:

Repair of this part of the engine is carried out as follows:

1. using a screwdriver or blade, remove the retaining ring and the transmission drive gear;
2. carefully unscrew the bolt fixing the gear and remove the gearshift mechanism;
3. remove the shift fork and shaft;
4. remove the crankshaft and drum (including the core);
5. after replacing the worn part with a new one, assemble (in reverse order).

In order to carry out self-repair of the engine correctly, you need to familiarize yourself with the training videos. The engine diagram of this model will help not to confuse the location of the forks and gears. If there is no access to the scheme, then you need to mark them on a piece of paper.

Moped Alpha rarely needs repair. If the owner is not confident in his abilities, then the repair should be carried out by a professional. Otherwise, the price of the issue will be very high.

A typical situation: The clockwork foot of the Racer Taurus scooter, when pressed, hangs in the pressed position and does not crank the engine. It turns as if at idle, while some strange sounds come from under the variator cover.

The reason for this malfunction lies in the incorrect assembly of the kickstarter mechanism located under the variator cover. Or rather, even in the wrong assembly, but in ignorance that the variator cover must be removed only with the crank foot removed in advance, leaving the kickstarter shaft in its place.

Beginners usually do not know this and remove the variator cover along with the crank and shaft, thereby bending the return spring bracket and knocking down the correct installation of the shafts. And then they can’t properly assemble the mechanism to the “heap”, so they drive with a forever idle crank.

Remove the variator cover, unscrew the bolt on the crank foot and remove it from the shaft.

We take out the input shaft of the brush starter from the cover housing.

We do not lose the thrust washer of the kickstarter shaft.

We remove the front variator. The work on removing the scooter variator is detailed in the article: How to remove the scooter variator with available tools

We take out the intermediate shaft, as you can see, there are no traces of lubrication, which is not good. All moving parts must be lubricated.

In order to lubricate the intermediate shaft, it must be disassembled, for this we remove the pin.

Remove the thrust washer and intermediate shaft gear.

Lubricate the shaft with grease (Litol-24).

We assemble the intermediate shaft in the reverse order. Lubricate the intermediate shaft mounting bracket.

Lubricate the working surface of the shaft.

After the intermediate shaft is completely lubricated, set it aside, we will not need it for now.

And now, pay attention to the fixing bracket of the return spring, it is unbent, and they unbent it out of ignorance when they tried to remove the variator cover along with the kickstarter shaft (we don’t take our case into account, since it was unbent a long time ago before my intervention).

We install the intermediate shaft in the hole, while making sure that the pin on the shaft goes into a special groove.

We make sure that the mounting bracket also goes into place.

We are looking for marks on the intermediate shaft - in our case, this is an “arrow” and the letters FT.

We turn the intermediate shaft gear so that the “arrow” is directed to the crankshaft trunnion, and the letters FT are directed to the kickstarter shaft (do not confuse).

We are looking for a “brewed tooth” on the kickstarter sector.

With one hand, hold the countershaft gear from mixing, with the other hand, insert the kickstarter shaft so that the “welded tooth” comes close to the tooth of the countershaft helical gear, that is, the kickstarter shaft should not turn clockwise “welded tooth" Must fix it from turning .

After installing the kickstarter shaft, we start the return spring in its place, the easiest way to do this is with pliers.

After installing the return spring, we fasten the pre-aligned fixing bracket.

Before installing the variator cover, do not forget to put the thrust washer on the kickstarter shaft.

A question. I have the same scooter. My internal kickstarter crescent bushing burst, I disassembled and changed it. The kick starts and works well, but one thing, when driving, the crescent flies off and starts ringing on bumps. Tell me what could be the reason? Thanks in advance

Most likely you forgot to put a thrust washer on the kickstarter shaft, which allows the shaft to "walk" about the axial direction. I also think the hub-to-shaft connection has a lot of radial play. In general, the mechanism must be removed and see what's what.

Please tell me at what point the piston should be when assembling the kickstarter! I will be grateful for the answer!

Vladimir, the position of the piston does not affect the operation of the kickstarter. Leave it as is - you can't go wrong.

I can’t put on the variator cover, something won’t let it go. And so it twisted and it doesn’t go. Help!

How does it not work. The lid should snap into place by hand. There is nothing complicated there, maybe you messed something up with the kickstarter shafts?

Why does my kick starter spin very hard, please tell me

Zhenya, most likely it is simply rusty with you. Disassemble it, lubricate all the parts and assemble it again - there is no more work for 15 minutes.

I just did it after the overhaul. And tell me the campaign should be big?

And is the mounting groove still changing?

See what engine. If you have a four-stroke Chinese, then the compression should be at least ten. Theoretically, the mounting groove can be replaced, but in practice ...

Thanks a lot. Tomorrow I will try to do something with it.

after pressing the kickstarter leg, it broke and spins in all directions without knowing how to do it, can the spring move away there? Help

Thank you very much, it helped a lot, otherwise I couldn’t put it for 3 days)))))

I have a question, if all the teeth of the intermediate and primary shaft are in constant engagement with the crankshaft gear, what happens when the engine starts? some gear moves away from the other?

The same problem, I can’t put on the variator cover, and I only removed the shaft, but as if something is interfering, what to do

The lower part of the shaft seat with a crescent on the crankcase broke off, what can be done? 157qmj 150cc

The handsome author understood everything the first time!

Hello! Please tell me, I have a 157qmj 150 cc engine. The problem is that my crescent on the kickstarter constantly gets lost, I collected everything as it is written. Collected, pressed a couple of times, and it hangs at the bottom. I take it apart, I look, but the crescent is gone and so constantly! What could be the problem?

thank you
Author per article
Nothing
Lishnevo photo
Very helpful
How
In a book on
parsing

why does the kickstarter cover break.

Strange, why are there no bushings on the kickstarter shaft ?? They should be there.

see why the intermediate shaft is further than the trunnion

I did this procedure without removing the front variator.
The engine is 161 qmk, but it didn’t work out from the leg)))

Thanks for such a detailed breakdown. Everything worked out.

very well written and accessible. pictures are accurate in 15 minutes I removed the cover and lubricated it and put it back in place, though for a couple of minutes the cover did not go in because of the intermediate shaft, you need to shake it a little, it became better even than when you bought a scooter

Is it possible to start the scooter without a CVT cover to visually check the operation of the belt? Engine 157 qmj. And is it possible to completely remove all the elements of the kickstarter? Bendix is ​​enough for me.

I set everything as indicated here, but the variator cover does not fit, something prevents what to do?

Just a huge thank you))
You helped me a lot, irbis rzr 170
Everything is like clockwork, I stumbled upon the error that you indicated, first I removed the cover and bent the bracket instead of removing the kick first, straightened it, everything is fine)
Now I'll know))

The sleeve must be after the washer

Please hurry up, I bought all the parts of the tickstarter, set it as you see it in the pictures, I put on the variator cover, I start to pull it, and it just scrolls on the semi-axis, it doesn’t cling, please jump up for the fag

Help kindly.
When priming the scooter from the labyana, it sits on top and does not want to go down, what should I do?
cant fix her

Thanks to everyone who is related to the photo report, you all helped a lot.

Please tell me why the kickstarter returns slowly to a cold engine and quickly to a warm one, what could be the problem?

Thank you, you have been a great help...

I bought a scooter and there is no intermediate gear or gear sector. how to find out the length of the sector and intermediate gear shafts. dvigun 150QMJ

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