Do-it-yourself moped repair racer

The popularity of scooters is growing every year. And this is not surprising. Low cost, ease of maintenance, good performance make the moped an irreplaceable thing in the life of many.

In many countries of the world, the number of scooters on the streets exceeds the number of cars. They have high maneuverability, which allows residents of megacities not to think about traffic jams. However, sometimes situations arise that the moped breaks down and does not want to start.

You can repair the scooter yourself or take it to a workshop. This is everyone's personal decision. Having decided to repair it yourself, you need to prepare the space for this. Most often, repairs are carried out in the garage.

The most common malfunctions associated with changing oil and filters... Improperly selected oil can be the reason that the engine will not start.

First you need to drain the old oil through the drain hole. Then the carburetor is completely disassembled.

The device and repair of Chinese mopeds should not cause big problems for a person who understands at least a little about this.

In order to identify a scooter malfunction, it is necessary to check all the elements in turn. The performance of any scooter depends on the proper functioning of components such as compression, fuel and spark. If one of the elements does not work, the scooter will not run.

Fuel can cause the moped not to start if gasoline has been filled for a long time. Studies show that from a long stay in the tank, the octane number of gasoline decreases, that is, its quality deteriorates noticeably. There is only one result: a spark does not ignite such gasoline. If you know that you have been pouring fuel for a long time, it is best to Drain old gasoline and fill in new one in its place.

The second reason that the scooter will not start may be a dirty filter - fuel or air. The fuel filter is necessary in order to purify gasoline from various impurities and rust. The engine must be supplied with clean gasoline, since the wear of many parts of the moped depends on it.

The air filter is designed to clean the air that enters the carburetor. It must be changed quite often, since dust, dirt, etc. constantly settle on it.

The third reason the engine won't start may be a lack of spark. Checking whether the candles are to blame for this is as easy as shelling pears. It is enough to replace them with new ones. If it was not possible to start, and the gasoline is filled with fresh gas, you need to look for the reasons deeper.

Having determined that neither candles nor gasoline are the cause of the malfunction, let's move on.

As noted earlier, engine performance problems can vary. Very often, these problems are associated with candles or with a carburetor. The spark may not skip due to carbon deposits on the candle, which occurs due to the use of a rich mixture.

There may be a small gap, which also does not contribute to a normal spark. In a two-stroke engine, this gap is 0.6-0.7 mm. With a smaller gap, there is a greater likelihood that the electrodes will melt. Increasing the gap causes the current consumption to increase and more voltage is required to generate a spark.

There are situations when the moped stalls while driving, and then continues to go further. This is due to the detachment of carbon deposits from the electrode. The spark is lost for a while and the engine stops working. After self-cleaning, performance is restored.

Interruptions in engine operation can be associated with moisture ingress on electrical appliances and wiring. This leads to a loss of voltage. After drying these parts, engine operation should be restored.

A fairly common reason in our climate is water entering the fuel and then into the carburetor.

The above reasons are easily eliminated by the driver himself. However, if these actions did not bring the desired solution and the engine does not work, the scooter engine should be repaired.

With regard to the carburetor, the causes of malfunctions can be caused by inadequate mixture quality. If the mixture is poor or rich, the performance of the moped will be compromised. The quality of the mixture can be checked by the condition of the candle. Black color will indicate that the mixture is rich, that is, there is an overconsumption of oil. White color will indicate a poor mixture and a decrease in engine power for this reason.

Repair of the scooter carburetor is performed on a warm engine. Before that, if there is a possibility of clogging, it should be cleaned and rinsed. The carburetor adjustment itself consists of the following actions:

1 action - it is necessary to adjust the idle speed.

This action is performed using the idle screw. In order to increase the speed, the screw is tightened, and to decrease, it is unscrewed. After warming up the scooter, using simple manipulations, you can set up stable engine idling.

Step 2 - check and adjust the quality of the mixture for the carburetor using a special screw.

The combustible mixture that enters the carburetor must clearly have the proportions set by the scooter manufacturer. If the mixture is too lean, the scooter loses power and overheats. With a rich mixture, fuel is used uneconomically. This problem can be solved by turning the screw. Turning the screw clockwise enriches the mixture, counterclockwise depletes it. The color of the candle will indicate the quality of the mixture. The candle is black and soot, which means the mixture is rich. If, on the contrary, it is white, the mixture must be enriched.

3 action - set the quality of the mixture by moving the needle.

The following manipulations are performed with the needle: when the needle is raised, the mixture is enriched, and when the needle is lowered, it is depleted.

4 action - regulation of the fuel level in the float chamber.

Checking the fuel level is done with a transparent tube on the bottom of the carburetor. The procedure is as follows: unscrew the cream screw, lift the pipe up and check the fuel level. The fuel level is monitored with the engine running. The tube should be held above the carburetor. The fuel level should be slightly below the curb on the carburetor cover.

Repairing Chinese engines does not pose any particular difficulties for most scooter owners. It should be remembered that the main attachments of the "Chinese" are more delicate than in domestic mopeds, so you do not need to pull anything with all your might.

For example, sudden movements when repairing the carburetor of a Chinese scooter can cause the pipe will be damaged... Then the muffler is removed. Many Chinese scooter manufacturers use plastic soldering. This must be taken into account when parsing a moped.

Manufacturers have foreseen that many scooter owners will want to carry out repairs on their own, so there is simply nothing complicated in the design of such scooters. Chinese scooter repair manual will allow you to do all the steps yourself. Everyone will be able to deal with the main problems and repair the engine of a Chinese scooter.

A scooter repair video will answer most of the questions.

A list of the most common scooter problems that you can fix yourself without the help of specialists.
Crime: the brake light does not light up, the brake lever limit switch does not work.
Analytics: the lever of one of the brakes has not been pressed or a malfunction has occurred in the brake light circuit.
Procedure: replace the bulb, adjust the brake lever free play or replace the brake lever limit switch.

Crime: fuse blown.
Procedure: check and, if necessary, replace the fuse for the main circuit and the starter circuit.

Crime: the junction of the terminal with the wire is covered with a loose coating of oxides.
Analytics: the battery gives insufficient voltage, which can happen due to a malfunction in the circuit or if the battery terminals are oxidized.
Action: check the circuit, recharge the battery if necessary. Clean the terminals from oxides.
A temporary measure is to start the engine with a kick starter.

Crime: you turned on the ignition, pressed the brake lever and the starter button, and the starter relay still does not click.
Analytics: the electric starter circuit is faulty.
Actions: clean the contacts on the relay and starter, "ring" the relay, wiring, starter windings.

Crime: when you press the kick-starter lever, it scrolls, but the engine crankshaft does not rotate; the leg does not feel resistance to the stroke of the kick-starter lever.
Analytics: Kick starter or ratchet gear teeth are broken. Action: replace defective parts.
Crime: the electric starter turns the crankshaft, but the engine does not start.
Analytics: the carburetor is "dry" (unscrew the drain screw of the float chamber - see). Variants of reasons: the filter of the gas valve is clogged, the gas valve is faulty, the fuel line is clogged, the vacuum hose for the control of the gas valve has jumped off or is leaking.
Actions: clean the fuel tap filter, blow through the fuel line, make sure that the automatic gas tap is in good working order.

Crime: fuel is supplied to the carburetor, but does not enter the pop-up chamber.
Analytics: float fuel valve stuck.
Procedure: remove the float chamber cover and clean the valve seat. If it does not help, replace the valve.

Crime: you unscrew the candle, and it is "wet" - covered with a layer of unburned benzo mixture.
Analytics: excessively rich combustible mixture, which happens due to too high fuel level in the float chamber or due to clogged air filter.
Actions: disassemble the carburetor, check the fuel level, clean the air filter.
Side effects: The engine starts immediately if a little gasoline is poured into the air filter.
Analytics: the automatic starting enrichment does not work.
Actions: check the serviceability of the starting enrichment (there are several ways - they are described in detail in the repair manuals)

Crime: a spark does not occur on a spark plug unscrewed from its socket (in a position where the metal part of the spark plug reliably contacts the "mass" of the scooter).
Analytics: the spark plug is faulty: the insulator is broken or the electrodes are covered with a thick layer of carbon.
Procedure: Clean the spark plug with emery paper or replace. If the spark still does not appear, diagnose other elements of the ignition system.

Crime: the spark on the spark plug is formed, but weak or "running".
Analytics: the spark plug has a broken insulator.
Action: replace the spark plug.

2. THE ENGINE STARTS WITH LABOR, RUNNING UNSTABLE
Crime: the engine does not "spin", there are pops in the carburetor.
Analytics: excessively lean fuel mixture, a possible cause - air is sucked in through a loose intake manifold or damaged crankshaft oil seals. Water in the float chamber.
Procedure: replace the gasket under the branch pipe and evenly tighten the bolts of its fastening. Replace the crankshaft oil seals. Get rid of the water in the float chamber (by unscrewing the drain screw of the float chamber), blow out the jets and channels of the carburetor, replace the gasoline in the tank.

Crime: a spark on an unscrewed spark plug (in a position where its metal part reliably contacts the "mass" of the scooter) is formed, but the surfaces of the insulator and electrodes are dry.
Analytics: the automatic starting enrichment does not work (if the engine is cold). Normal combustible mixture does not form. The idle air jet is clogged.
Actions: check the serviceability of the starting concentrator (see item 1). Purge the carburetor jet and channels.

Crime: there are water droplets on the insulator and electrodes of a twisted spark plug. Analytics: water penetrated into gasoline.
Action: get rid of water in the float chamber.

Crime: a spark on an unscrewed spark plug (in a position where its metal part reliably contacts the "mass" of the scooter) is formed, but the surfaces of the insulator and electrodes are covered with black oily soot (photo 5).
Analytics: the brand of the spark plug does not correspond to the thermal mode of the engine operation - its glow rate is higher than that set for the given engine (the spark plug is "cold"). The temperature in the working area of ​​the plug is insufficient for self-cleaning of the electrodes.
Action: replace the spark plug with a "hotter" one (with a lower glow number).

Crime: the engine starts normally, but soon there are interruptions in its work and it stalls.
Analytics: the vent hole in the fuel tank cap is clogged or the hoses responsible for communicating the contents of the gas tank to the atmosphere are clogged.
Procedure: Clean the fuel tank cap vent or hoses.

Crime: when you press the kickstarter lever, there is no resistance to compression of gases in the cylinder.
Analytics: the piston, cylinder, piston rings are extremely worn out.
Actions: check the compression - using a compression gauge or by measuring the parts (after dismantling the cylinder). Upon confirmation of the diagnosis, the engine requires repair with replacement of worn parts.

Crime: the sound of escaping gases is heard, oily traces are formed on the head and cylinder.
Analytics: the gasket under the cylinder head is damaged or the fastening of the head to the cylinder is loose.
Actions: replace the gasket and tighten the nuts securing the head to the cylinder with the required torque (effort) in the sequence recommended by the repair manual.

3) EXTRAORDINARY SOUNDS IN THE ENGINE
Analytics, version 1: increased wear of parts of the cylinder-piston group.
Action: the engine requires repair with replacement of worn parts.
Version 2: the thermal clearance in the valve drive is broken (for 4-stroke engines).
Action: adjust the valves.
Version 3: Loose chain in the valve drive (4-stroke engines).
Action: adjust the chain tension.
Version 4: grooves in the variator pulley have developed, along which the rollers move, as well as the rollers themselves.
Actions: replace the worn pulley, rollers (possibly other variator parts).

4. ENGINE STOPS AT SHARP OPENING OF THE THROTTLE
Circumstance 1: The engine has just started.
Analytics: the engine is not warm enough.
Action: continue warming up the engine at idle speed.

Circumstance 2: The engine is well warmed up.
Analytics version 1: carburetor not adjusted.
Actions: adjust idling speed, if necessary - the main dosing system (see item 5).
Version 2: the variator does not work properly.
Actions: see item 10.

5. THE ENGINE STARTS NORMALLY BUT IT DOESN'T SPIN
Crime: thick smoke in the exhaust, excessive fuel consumption, black plaque on the spark plug electrodes.
Analytics: The main dosing system prepares an overly rich mixture.
Actions: adjust the quality of the mixture - lower the carburetor throttle adjusting needle one notch (groove) down. It may be necessary to install a smaller bore main jet.

Crime: the engine overheats, detonation is heard during acceleration, white bloom on the electrodes and spark plug insulator. After turning off the ignition, the engine continues to run for a few seconds (detonates).
Analytics: The carburetor's main metering system is preparing an overly lean mixture.
Actions: adjust the quality of the mixture - raise the carburetor throttle adjusting needle one step up. It may be necessary to install a large bore main fuel jet.

Crime: the engine runs unusually quietly (although it is easy to start), low-smoke exhaust, the engine “does not pull” during acceleration.
Analytics: muffler, channels and cylinder windows clogged with carbon deposits (in two-stroke engines).
Action: clean carbon deposits if possible. If the muffler is completely clogged (no air flow), replace the muffler.

6. AFTER A LONG DRIVE, THE ENGINE LOSES POWER
Circumstance 1: an air-cooled engine.

Crime: no air movement is felt from under the cylinder casing, and a sheet of paper does not "stick" to the air intake mesh (on the right side of the engine) (if a test is carried out with paper).
Analytics: the fan impeller blades are broken, another assumption is that the shrouds of the cooling system are loose or split in places.
Procedure: Replace the impeller and damaged covers.

Circumstance 2: Liquid-cooled engine.
Crime: coolant leaks, its level in the tank has dropped.
Analytics: faulty components of the system: pump, thermostat, radiator.
Action: replace faulty components.

7. ENGINE DOES NOT ACCELERATE THE SCOOTER TO 50 KM / H
Inspection data: speedometer calibrated, no power or rev limiter installed.
Analytics version 1: The scooter is not designed for this speed.
Actions: all actions are meaningless.
Version 2: the carburetor is incorrectly adjusted, the muffler is clogged, or the parts of the cylinder-piston group are worn out.
Actions: see item 2 or change the scooter.
Version 3: the variator is not working properly.
Actions: see p. 9, 10.

8. WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING, THE SCOOTER DOES NOT MOVE FROM THE PLACE.
Crime: the variator is faulty.
Analytics: the driven pulley spring is broken, the V-belt is torn (to make sure of this, remove the variator cover - breakdowns are perceived at a visual level).
Action: replace defective parts.

Crime: faulty centrifugal clutch.
Analytics: the springs of the shoes are broken, the linings of the shoes are excessively worn out (found out during a visual inspection after removing the variator cover) (photo 9). Action: replace defective parts.

9. THE SCOOTER RIDES IN SPECTS
Crime: jerks are felt when driving.
Analytics: the variator belt slips (due to wear, damage or oiling) or the surfaces of the pulleys are excessively worn out.
Action: replace defective parts (photo 10).

10. SCOOTER SPEEDS SLOWLY, RIDES SLOWLY
Analytics: during the recent tuning, the weight of the centrifugal regulator weights or the spring of the driven pulley are incorrectly matched. The springs of the centrifugal clutch shoes are broken or have lost their rigidity, the linings of the centrifugal clutch shoes are worn or oiled.
Actions: carry out the tuning more thoroughly, preferably with the participation of specialists.

Then listen to me here: This is because of the Japanese carburetor that is installed on it. Throw the fuck out and go to the place where they sell carburetors for the Mole cultivator.

This carburetor is actually Soviet, ancient, which was installed on Soviet mopeds and had a well-deserved “Quality Mark”. For three years I was looking for one in garages, but I did not know that these things are still produced and used in agricultural machinery. I found out by chance, bought it instantly. I ordered the turner an adapter flange from carb to cylinder. He made it for me for 250 rubles.

Throttle cable: we throw out the bent tube with nuts so that only the cable jacket remains, and the cable itself sticks out of it by 5 centimeters. We bend 5 millimeters of the cable end and press it against the cable, wrap the curved section with a straightened paper clip - this is how we get the tip of the desired shape and get around no soldering. The tightly wrapped tip fits neatly into the groove in the air damper.

Please note that this carburetor does not have a starting heater. To start a cold engine, it has a lever that must be pressed. It will lock in. At the same time, the mixture is enriched by restricting air access to the carburetor. The lock is automatically reset when you turn the throttle knob to full. This carburetor also does not have any vacuum chamber for controlling the needle and piston-valve, as it does not have any needle, and at the same time it works perfectly. The engine breathes evenly. The moped just flies. Google will tell you the adjustment method so that I do not produce unnecessary letters that are already on the Internet.

The carburetor itself cost 900 rubles. That, perhaps, is all.

In order for an internal combustion engine to work, it needs three components: fuel, spark, compression. The main slogan of the motor mechanic is “miracles do not happen”. It must always be remembered that if, when troubleshooting and scooter repair it turns out that there is a spark, there is compression, fuel comes in, but the engine does not start, this usually means only that some of these components are actually missing.

Too lazy to give the scooter for repair and pay money for it. Familiar situation. Then it's time to take on the repair with your own hands.

The basic principle of troubleshooting and repairing a scooter is to exclude system elements step by step, trying to identify the cause of a malfunction in one of them. Search and repair must be carried out strictly sequentially, from the very beginning of the chain to the very end. That is, for example, in the absence of a spark, you should not immediately change the switch. First, you need to make sure that we have a "live" generator, then test the wiring. Etc.

An important note: if you have a device in front of you, which, according to the owner, “used to work like a clock”, it makes sense to ask if old gasoline is poured into the tank. A couple or three months of storage is quite enough for gasoline to lose its octane number to such an extent that it has lost the ability to ignite.

It is important to remember that before making the final diagnosis and starting the repair of the scooter, you need to make sure that a working candle is installed on it, as well as the carburetor is functioning normally.

In addition, you need to know that the correct operation of the engine (even at idle) is closely tied to the correct operation of the variator, clutch, as well as the camshaft and valve group. In other words, with normally functioning power supply, ignition and CPG systems, the problem may be, for example, in the transmission, since the crankshaft torque is directly transmitted to the variator.

When carrying out diagnostics and repairs, it must be remembered that under some circumstances that led to the need scooter repair, it is necessary to check not a single element, but the entire system. For example, if the carburetor is clogged, provided that the air filter is intact and impregnated, it is necessary to check if there is any dirt in the gas tank and fuel filter. If the scooter has been driving for a long time without an air filter, or with an untreated filter, then everything must be checked: the CPG, the crankshaft and the main bearings.

Below are some of the problems that you may encounter and the basic steps to take to fix them. The links indicate the places where you can find information on this item.

Any, even the most advanced motorcycle equipment needs careful handling and professional care. The engine is the heart of the Alpha moped. Against the background of improper handling of it, the consequences can be unpredictable.In order to avoid the risks of irreversible damage to the moped, it is important to know how to independently disassemble and assemble the engine of this model. Repairing is easy. This will require experience, as well as knowledge of some of the nuances.

The engine of the Chinese moped Alpha has characteristic features, thanks to which fans of motorcycle technology prefer this particular model.

Engine displacement - 72 cc. With the right approach, it can be upgraded to 110 cc. Also, if you wish, you can increase the speed by 10 kilometers.

The weak point of the engine is the gearbox, which requires close attention and delicacy.... When repairing the "heart" of a moped, you need to know how to correctly disassemble and assemble this part of a motorcycle "body".

Alpha is equipped with a powerful motor, the circuitry of which is complex. If you can't figure it out on your own, it is recommended to contact an experienced specialist. The repair price is quite affordable.

The Chinese moped Alpha, the price of which is democratic, does not cause many problems for the owners. Interruptions in the moped engine have several reasons, having dealt with which, you can quickly fix the breakdown.

Dismantling the moped engine

So, if the engine starts with great difficulty, the muffler “shoots”, and smoke comes out of the pipe, it means that the moped is “capricious” due to problems with the carburetor. In order to solve this problem of the Alpha moped, you must:

• clean the carburetor;
• thoroughly clean the air filter of the moped;
• tighten the screws;
• adjust the carburetor of the moped.

If Alpha slowly picks up speed, and its engine is not able to develop the declared power, then the reason lies in the incorrect operation of the moped's valves. He can also "get sick" due to gaps and incorrect timing. In order to make the Alpha moped function normally, it is necessary to replace the used valves with new ones.

If the Alpha moped is not able to develop the required speed, despite the roar of the engine and solid rpm, it is impossible to stop the spinning wheel, and gear changes are intermittent, then the cause of the malfunction is clutch wear.

To eliminate the breakdown, you must do the following manipulations:

• remove the engine;
• remove the plastic cover;
• unscrew the clamping screw;
• unscrew the adjustment mechanism and tighten the screw tightly;
• start a moped;
• turn on the first speed and drive a few meters.

Another cause of a moped engine malfunction may be wear on the drive sprockets. If they are badly worn out, they must be replaced with new ones.

You may encounter a problem with engine overheating. The situation can be corrected after adding oil. If oil leaks out, an urgent need to contact a professional service.

Alfa moped engine overheating

It is quite easy to disassemble the Alpha engine. This requires:

• "Arm" with a key;
• unscrew the bolts on the intake manifold (by 10);
• unscrew the cylinder covers and the bolts located there (4 pieces);
• remove the cylinder head.

After carrying out the necessary manipulations, it is necessary to properly assemble the engine, reinstalling all the parts.

A diagram can help to deal with the nuances. Also, a lot of useful tips regarding the repair of the most important "organ" of the Alpha moped are contained in the training video.

It is necessary to disassemble the gearbox in order to replace used parts. This is done after the following parts have been dismantled:

Repair of this part of the engine is carried out as follows:

1. using a screwdriver or blade, remove the retaining ring and the drive gear;
2. carefully unscrew the bolt fixing the gear and remove the gearshift mechanism;
3. remove the shift fork and shaft;
4. remove the crankshaft and drum (including the core);
5. after replacing the worn-out part with a new one, reassemble (in reverse order).

In order to carry out an independent engine repair correctly, you need to familiarize yourself with the training videos. The engine diagram of this model will help not to confuse the location of the forks and gears. If there is no access to the scheme, then you need to mark them on a sheet of paper.

The Alpha moped rarely needs repair. If the owner is not confident in his abilities, then the repair should be carried out by a professional. Otherwise, the issue price will be very high.

Typical situation: The winding foot of the Racer Taurus scooter, when pressed, hangs in the pressed position and does not turn the engine. It turns as if to idle, while some incomprehensible sounds are heard from under the variator cover.

The reason for this malfunction lies in the improper assembly of the kickstarter mechanism located under the variator cover. Rather, even in the wrong assembly, and in the ignorance of the fact that the variator cover needs to be removed only with the crank removed in advance, leaving the kickstarter shaft in place.

Beginners usually do not know this and remove the variator cover together with the crank and the shaft, thereby bending the return spring bracket and knocking down the correct installation of the shafts. And then they cannot properly assemble the mechanism to the "heap", so they drive with the always inoperative winder.

Remove the variator cover, unscrew the bolt on the crank and remove it from the shaft.

We take out the primary shaft of the starter from the cover housing.

We do not lose the thrust washer of the kickstarter shaft.

Remove the front variator. The work on removing a scooter variator is detailed in the article: How to remove a scooter variator with available tools

We take out the intermediate shaft, as you can see, traces of grease are completely absent, which is not good. It is imperative to lubricate all rubbing parts.

In order to lubricate the intermediate shaft, it must be disassembled, for this we remove the pin.

Remove the thrust washer and the intermediate shaft gear.

Lubricate the shaft with grease (lithol-24).

We assemble the intermediate shaft in the reverse order. Lubricate the intermediate shaft mounting bracket.

We lubricate the working surface of the shaft.

After fully lubricating the intermediate shaft, set it aside, we will not need it for now.

And now, pay attention to the retaining bracket of the return spring, it is unbent, and they unbent it out of ignorance when they tried to remove the variator cover together with the kickstarter shaft (we do not take into account our case, since it was unbent a long time ago before my intervention).

We install the intermediate shaft in the hole, making sure that the pin on the shaft goes into a special groove.

We make sure that the mounting bracket also goes into place.

We are looking for marks on the intermediate shaft — in our case, these are the “arrow” and the letters FT.

We turn the countershaft gear so that the “arrow” is directed to the crankshaft journal, and the letters FT are directed to the kickstarter shaft (do not confuse).

We are looking for a "welded tooth" in the kickstarter sector.

With one hand, hold the countershaft gear against mixing, with the other hand insert the kickstarter shaft so that the “welded tooth” comes close to the tooth of the countershaft helical gear, that is, the kickstarter shaft should not turn clockwise; the “welded tooth” should fix it from turning ...

After installing the kickstarter shaft, we put the return spring into place, the easiest way to do this is with pliers.

After installing the return spring, screw on the pre-aligned retaining bracket.

Before installing the variator cover, do not forget to put the thrust washer on the kickstarter shaft.

A question. I have the same scooter. My inner sleeve of the crescent kickstarter burst, I disassembled and changed it. The kick starts up and works well, but one thing is, when driving, the crescent flies off and starts ringing on the bumps. Tell me what could be the reason? Thanks in advance

Most likely, you forgot to put the thrust washer on the kickstarter shaft, which allows the shaft to "walk" in the axial direction. Also I think the sleeve-to-shaft connection has a lot of radial play. In general, the mechanism must be removed and see what's what.

Please tell me where the piston should be located when assembling the kickstarter! I would be grateful for your answer!

Vladimir, the position of the piston does not affect the operation of the kickstarter. Put it as it is - you can't go wrong.

I can’t put on the variator cover, something doesn’t start up. and I twisted it like that, it doesn’t go. help!

How it does not go. The cover should snap into place by hand. There is nothing complicated there, maybe you messed something up with the kickstarter shafts there?

Why my kick starter turns very hard, please tell me

Zhenya, most likely you have it just rusted. Disassemble it, lubricate all the parts and reassemble it - there will be no more work for 15 minutes.

I just made one after a thorough repair. And tell me the campresia and should it be big?

And is the installation groove still changing?

It depends on which engine. If you have a four-stroke Chinese, then the compression should be at least ten. Theoretically, the installation groove can be replaced, but in practice ...

Thanks a lot. Tomorrow I will try to do something with him.

after pressing the kickstarter leg, it broke and spins in all directions, not knowing how to do it, can the spring come off there? Help

Thank you very much, it helped a lot, otherwise I was tormented to deliver for 3 days)))))

I have a question, if all the teeth of the intermediate and primary shaft are in constant engagement with the crankshaft gear, what happens when the engine starts up? which gear moves away from the other?

The same problem, I can’t put on the variator cover, and I only removed the shaft, but as if something was interfering, why do that

The lower part of the shaft seat with a crescent on the crankcase broke off, what can be done? 157qmj 150cc

The author, handsome, understood everything the first time!

Hello! Please tell me, I have a 157qmj 150 cc engine. The problem is that my crescent moon on kickstarter constantly gets lost, I collected everything as written. Collected, pressed a couple of times, and it hangs at the bottom. I disassemble, look, and the crescent moon is gone and so on all the time! What could be the problem?

Blagadar
Author per article
Nothing
Lishnevo photo
Very good helped
How
In the book on
Parse

why does the kickstarter cover break.

Strange, why are there no bushings on the kickstarter shaft? They should be there.

see why the intermediate shaft is further than the trunnion

I carried out this procedure without removing the front variator.
Engine 161 qmk, but it did not work to start from the leg)))

Thank you for such a detailed analysis. Everything worked out.

very well written and accessible. the pictures are accurate in 15 minutes, took off the lid and greased it and put it in place, although for a couple of minutes the lid did not come in because of the intermediate shaft, it was necessary to shake a little, it became better even than when I bought a scooter

Can I start the scooter without the variator cover to visually check the belt operation? Engine 157 qmj. And is it possible to completely remove all the kickstarter elements? Bendix is ​​enough for me.

Here I put everything as indicated, but the variator cover does not put on, something interferes with what to do?

Just a huge thank you))
You helped me a lot, irbis rzr 170
Everything is like clockwork, I came across the error that you indicated, first I removed the lid and bent the bracket instead of first removing the kick, straightened it, everything is fine)
Now I'll know))

The sleeve must be after the washer

Podskogite please bought all the spare parts of the tikstarter put it like uvas in the pictures I put on the cover of the variator I start the twitch and it just scrolls to the floor the axis is not disciplined Th for the fegnya podskogo please

Please help.
When the scooter is turned on, the labi ana stays at the top і doesn’t want to go down what to do?
I can't honor her

Thanks to everyone who is related to the photo report, you helped everyone a lot.

Please tell me why the kickstarter on a cold engine returns slowly and on a warm one quickly what could be the problem?

Thank you, you helped a lot super ...

I bought a scooter and there is no intermediate gear or gear sector. how to find out the length of the sector shafts and the intermediate gear. dvigun 150QMJ

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