DIY repair of a moped zid 50 pilot

Illustrated manual and spare parts catalog.
Mokik “ZiD-50” ZDK-2.103 (“Pilot”) produced by the Kovrov Production Association “Zid-Moto” JSC “Plant named after V.A. Degtyarev "since 1995

The book contains the technical characteristics of the ZiD-50 motorcycle, the design of the motorcycle, a detailed description of its mechanisms, a manual with illustrations for troubleshooting, and a detailed catalog of spare parts.

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Published: April 10, 2014

A few more tips for repairing the ZiD 50 Pilot... Here are the most common breakdowns and how to repair them.
"ZiD" has too short a pendulum, which, when installing a tire, leads to wiping of the air filter housing. One way is to move the shock mount point. In addition, you can lengthen the pendulum itself. This requires a plate and a welding machine. True, then it will be necessary to design a longer brake rod and a reaction arm to fix the brake drum.

What if the candle thread is torn off? First, you need to carve a futorka out of bronze or brass. Just keep in mind that you do not need to cut all the threads at once, it is enough to work only with the first tap, and finally cut it after installation in the head.

Then we re-drill the torn off thread to a diameter of 16.4 mm and cut the thread М18Х1.5... At the top of the key we make a collar to keep the distance from the combustion chamber to the seating end of the candle.

Next, we heat the case to a temperature of 70 ... 80 ° C and grease the thread of the hole for the candle with glue. As soon as the glue has frozen boldly, we cut the threads in the footboard.

Video (click to play).

The essence of boring under the Diovsky piston is that the CPG has died, and there is nothing to repair. Pistons fit from DIO AF-18 and it seems from AF-34. In the first case, an additional spacer of 1 mm is required under the cylinder, in the second - 4. Or grind the bottom of the piston by the same amount.

It was also possible to bore the pistons from the Mole cultivator. But there, as far as I remember, then the ring stopper must be transferred. With pistons from the DIO stopper on the brink of a foul, but fit.

The carburetor from K39 was hardly bored. It's big enough anyway. I do not know if the jet was selected, but this is the maximum that can be done. My copy was unsuccessful. Came to me with a leaky float. I changed the float, but it didn't work out properly. It seems to be conjuring with both the fuel level and the jets. Found in a puddle (really in a puddle!) Near the garage Jikov 2912 (it was also installed at the factory!) - heaven and earth. And it is regulated and works. For 70 cubic meters, you just need to significantly increase the jets. An acquaintance with the Krotov piston (60 cc) GTZh-100, but the truth is, the air filter has also been modified for greater throughput.

As for the interior, they could not put anything there, everything native, ZIDovskoe. The only thing that can be changed is the DERBI box. But 1.- expensive, 2- you would have immediately understood by 6 gears. Copying DERBI, the designers were puzzled by the incompatibility of parts. They slightly increased the stroke of the piston, slightly reduced the diameter, changed the distance between the studs, threw out 2.4 and 6 gears, a starter, a separate lubrication system. In general, it’s not a copy, you don’t get bogged down!

Material prepared by the department
operation and testing.

Several years have passed since the first "Pilots" appeared on the roads. The more their mileage, the more often the owners have questions about the maintenance and repair of devices, especially with regard to the engine. It can be argued that among the domestic motors "pilot" is the most modern and high-tech.It contains many previously unseen technical and layout solutions. And therefore, it should be handled delicately, with knowledge of the matter.

We asked the specialists of the Kovrov ZiD plant to tell us about the peculiarities of assembling and disassembling the Pilat engine.

Experienced mechanics lay out the engine to the last screw in just a dozen minutes. You will need a little more time for this. So, let's begin.

1. Unscrew the mounting screws and remove the right engine cover. Using a special device (a disc with a handle, from which the screws protrude), we fix the rotor and unscrew the nut that secures the rotor on the crankshaft journal with a socket wrench (standard "candlestick").

2. Screw the puller into the rotor. By screwing the screw inside the puller, we dismantle the rotor from the journal. Be sure to inspect the part: due to excessive tightening of the nut of its fastening, the seating surface sometimes breaks.

3. Unscrew the fastening screws and remove the stator. There is a risk on the surface of its base. Later, when assembling the engine, align it with the counter-risk on the crankcase. This is the factory setting for the ignition timing.

4. Use a screwdriver to pry the retaining ring on the transmission output shaft and remove it. Turn and remove the upper and lower figured washers along the slots, then the drive sprocket.

5. Remove the spacer sleeve from the gearbox output shaft. Be careful: rubber rings are installed on the bushing, which can get damaged if they get into the groove under the drive sprocket retaining ring.

6. Unscrew the four bolts and disconnect the carburetor pipe from the engine crankcase. Then remove the petal valve. When assembling the motor, do not forget: the gasket must be between the crankcase and the valve.

7. Remove the cylinder head and bring the piston to the TDC position. Lift the cylinder slightly along the hairpins. With your left hand, you need to hold the connecting rod so that the piston does not hit the crankcase, and completely remove the cylinder.

8. To dismantle the kickstarter lever, it is necessary to remove the lock washer with special "platypus". At the same time, unscrew all the screws that secure the right engine cover.

9. In order to make it more convenient to "tear off" the right cover, special grooves are made on the crankcase. Insert a screwdriver into one of them, use the other screwdriver to turn the axis of the clutch release mechanism counterclockwise and separate the cover.

10. Disengage and turn to the left the return spring of the kickstarter shaft. Turn the shaft a little counterclockwise and remove it by lifting it vertically upwards. Attention! Washers are installed on both ends of the kickstarter shaft. They can stick to the oil film and then get lost.

Time zone: UTC + 4 hours [Daylight Saving Time]

Last year, a work colleague bought his son "Pilot". As I saw, I immediately fired up to bring the machine to mind.
It is enough, having removed the cylinder, to look at the liner with a thickness of 7.5 mm to understand that the engine can be with a larger cubic capacity. Boring up to a diameter of 41 mm (versus native 38) is painless. In this case, the working volume increases to 60 cubic meters. see. I would like to waste more, but, unfortunately, this is the limit: if you continue to cut the walls, additional bypass channels are opened.

The purge scheme was retained as it was, it only increased the flow cross-sections of the channels in proportion to the increased cubic capacity. But in the exhaust tract he added two additional windows (Fig. 1).

Everyone knows that the easiest way to increase power is to raise the revs. On a serial engine, this, in addition to the valve timing, is prevented by the ignition system. More precisely, the BCS 2MK211 switch, which, due to the peculiarities of the circuit, cannot provide a spark at speeds above 6.5 thousand. I began to understand electronics - fortunately, my father is in this area of ​​a large dock. A new switch was soldered, which, by the way, was smaller in size than the factory one. And the spark has become more powerful: when you press the kick, it breaks through the air gap of the cap (if you put it on the ground).

Having dealt with the ignition, he returned to the cylinder liner.I pierced up the outlet ports by 6 mm and the blow-out ports by 2 mm. After debugging the intake and exhaust tracts (more on this later), I tried to turn the engine. The result exceeded all expectations: the motor developed 14,000 rpm! But it was too early to rejoice: although the power and torque curves went up, the operating range was very narrow, and it was impossible to realize higher power with the three-speed gearbox. Now, if you could get a five-stage developed by ZiD.

I had to take a step back. I did not touch the purge in the new sleeve, I cut through two additional outlet windows, as in the first time, and raised them 2 mm higher than the factory one. I thought the motor would turn out to be "rotten". But no - it still "twists" under 12000. But the mokik began to accelerate much faster than the serial one.

The piston was taken from some Korean scooter, 41 mm in diameter. I bore a hole for my finger. The rings (two pieces) came from Derby, they are trapezoidal and 1.5 mm thick. The "Pilot" has 1.7 mm, reducing the thickness of the rings reduces friction and promotes an increase in engine speed. I overpressed the stoppers - my relatives immediately failed. The cylinder head is tucked in by 1.5 mm. Probably, you can tighten even more, but then, due to the excessive growth of the compression ratios, you will have to get the more scarce 98th gasoline. And so I drive the 95th, it is everywhere.

The petal valve left its own (only spread the limiters), but re-sharpened its body - made a flow section, like that of a carburetor, with a diameter of 25 mm. Although the diameter of the diffuser is too large, 24 mm would be better suited for the "sixty". The carburetor itself (Indian "Pakko" from "Minsk") is attached by means of a rubber pipe from the "Zhiguli". I had to select jets in the carburetor. I sharpened them on a machine and drilled with small calibrated drills from 0.6 to 0.75 mm. Air filter - paper (native foam rubber "chokes" the motor).

Made the exhaust system tuned. The first option is this: I took my own pipe and welded the simplest pipe. I put down the dimensions from memory, as I once did for the Sh-52. Then I tried the exhaust pipe of the Polini tuning company for the Piaggio scooter. At first I just put it on and played it on the spot - I liked it. I cut it open, and then joined it ring by ring and cooked it. Such painstaking work was not in vain - now the engine smoothly and quickly picks up speed up to 10,000, then it spins up more slowly.

What's left to do? You need to order good bearings of the lower and upper connecting rod ends. The top separator, aluminum, is simply disgusting - it quickly crumbles. A hardened steel cage, silver-plated, works best. In extreme cases, copper-plated - it removes vibrations and holds the lubricant well. The lower bearing can be ordered according to the catalog from foreign firms engaged in tuning "fifty kopecks". I do not like the piston and the liner - I will make new ones, but already in sizes under 80 cubic meters. Then you really get a super apparatus!

Bulkhead of the engine ZiD-50 Pilot

It is convenient to use a simple puller to disassemble the engine. The puller is inserted in place of the generator and fixed with two bolts. If you do not have such a tool, you can use a large wrench by drilling the appropriate holes.

Zid Pilot Engine Parts

After disassembly, we wash all the parts in gasoline or kerosene.

Engine parts Zid pilot continued

We coat all joints of the shafts and the crankcase with grease (lithol). This is necessary so as not to deform parts when assembling the engine gearbox. Pour boiling water over the main bearings of the crankshaft just before assembly. They will expand and the crankcase will be easy to connect. The grease will prevent water from entering the bearing.

Pay attention to the presence of a gasket between the engine crankcases. It must be installed, otherwise the operation of the box may be disrupted. If the gasket is damaged, you can cut it out of thick cardboard.

engine bulkhead ZiD-50 pilot

We remove excess sealant and protruding parts of the crank chamber gasket.

bottom of the engine ZiD-50 pilot

Putting the clutch and trigger mechanism together. When assembling the clutch, tighten the 5 spring bolts evenly. Misalignment of the basket is fraught with damage to the clutch release needle bearing.

engine clutch ZiD-50 pilot

ZiD-50 pilot engine starting mechanism

Before assembling the CPG, we put a rag in the crank chamber.

installation of the piston on the ZiD-50 pilot engine

installation of the piston on the ZiD-50 pilot engine

installation of the piston on the ZiD-50 pilot engine

The new gasket should be trimmed so that there are no protruding edges of the cylinder purge chamber.

Name: We repair mokik ZiD-50 Pilot

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See link: (For 3 liters of gasoline. For a mileage of about 100 km. A backpack is not needed.)

A fully fueled Pilot's tank is enough

It's funny, but from all of the above, only

It all depends on what price they will offer, as well as on whether you have spare parts for it in the city.

If they offer 2T for 20 thousand or more, then you need to find fault with everything, check that the condition is really good, that there are no traces of deformations, welding on the frame, that the footboards are not worn, the condition of the shock absorbers, etc. About the motor in any case, even if the Pilot is offered for only 10 thousand, it should at least start. The rest is as lucky. Disassemble and half will still not be allowed. And it will be desirable to change the carb to carb from the Yamaha jog wheel, it will be much better (just make the jet 0.9 mm). But if you decide to take a 2T, then be sure to get a spare cylinder and a spare crankshaft right away. The CPG in two-stroke is a consumable. And then later, when you have to, you will not find cylinders for it. It's easier with pistons. Because pistons from Honda Dio and from Yamaha will be on sale for a long time.

I have 2T, so I can only say about it.

Force Pilot!

The pilot is a very good motorcycle, but he is so strangled by all sorts of mechanical reducers of the maximum speed, our main task is to remove them all and accelerate the Pilot.

First: Transmission!
So let's take care of the transmission. The Pilot's transsymia is designed so that the engine twists after the speed of “50 KMCH”, yes, yes, exactly 50 km / h, you tell yourself, but the Pilot goes even more, but he goes, but the engine is twisted very much. Our task is to accelerate the Pilot up to a speed of 70 km / h without overturning the engine. To do this, we go to the market or to any motorcycle store and buy a leading sprocket with 16 teeth (standard 14 teeth), if you want you can buy more, to increase the speed you need to Increase the leading sprocket and decrease the driven sprocket. The driven sprocket with our 16 teeth will come off the standard (42 teeth). And so we finished with the transmission, but the power is not enough.

Second: Phases of intake and exhaust!
Let's start with the muffler.Pilot's muffler, let's say, is very stupid, it screams a lot and gives little power! Let's see what prevents the forcing? The Pilot's frame is designed in such a way that it is impossible to install a tuned volumetric muffler with large cones. Therefore, the “ceiling” of the boost is 4 hp. Here is a diagram of a standard Pilot muffler:

Attention: All the changes on this site cannot be done if you have not expired the warranty for your Pilot. Also, the service life is reduced due to all alterations. Also, be careful with the traffic police on such a Pilot, in no case drive past the traffic police post at a speed more than 50 km / h, even if 80 km / h and more are allowed there, according to the passport your pilot can drive only 50 km / h, and in no case tell anyone that your Pilot is traveling, more than 50 km / h.