DIY Stinol 106 freezer repair

Lost instructions for it.

Which mode is currently on in the picture: 1,4,2 or super?

What temperatures do these modes correspond to (1,2,3,4, super)

If the back of the freezer (black grate) is hot and the side walls at the top are warming up, which setting should be set? Raise or lower the temperature? The freezer is almost empty.

Have you tried to twist it neatly?
Turning counterclockwise until it clicks, the device turns off (position *)

ksiman wrote:
Have you tried to twist it neatly?
Turning counterclockwise until it clicks, the device turns off (position *)

Now he seems to have cooled down on the outside, cooled down inside. Probably went to the regime. I'm afraid to twist. Suddenly it won't turn back on?

If I understand correctly, is he now in position 1 (where is one risk)?
And if you turn it clockwise, will it freeze harder?
Two risks were drawn to confuse my head. And the vertical strip is just a screwdriver. So?

the main task is to eliminate problems in the operation of your refrigerator with high quality, in the shortest possible time and at an affordable price

1. Leakage of freon from the bellows of the thermostat occurs, as a rule, as a result of microcracks in the capillary of the thermostat. At the same time, the pressure in the bellows drops, contacts "3" - "4" open through which the motor-compressor is powered. The refrigerator does not turn on. In case of incomplete leakage of freon (it is extremely rare), the refrigerator works with a small coefficient of working time, the temperature in the refrigerator is increased.

9. Defective timer. When the electromechanical timer is jammed in the "cooling" mode, the refrigerator stops entering defrost. The evaporator freezes, the cooling capacity of the refrigeration unit decreases. The temperature rises and the thermostat stops turning off the compressor. After defrosting the refrigerator (at least 8 hours), the refrigerator will pick up the temperature and turn off until the evaporator freezes.

The free-standing freezer "Stinol 106" is equipped with an automatic defrosting system for the evaporator, the so-called No Frost system. This freezer, like other Stinol machines equipped with the No Frost system, is maintenance-free. The refrigeration unit of the model under consideration is designed according to a single compressor scheme. For effective cooling of the entire volume of the freezer, the unit uses an evaporator with increased capacity.

The set includes a container for storing ice, a spatula for removing frost.

Schematic diagram of electrical equipment "Stinol 106"

In a thermostat? I threw out at my fridge ... it. Held the DS18B20 sensor to the freezer, then connected it to the microcontroller scarf. on atmega328. + relay. Five lines of code and I don’t know the problem. Before that it was like you, it freezes .. it does not freeze .. The refrigerator is not like that.

For the money it turned out: 40r sensor + 120r mic. + Board + 40r - relay with strapping. The program is free. Well, more wires. You can attach an indicator with buttons there at will - an operational display of t and control (+ 200r). Yes, even connect Wi-Fi, and draw a schedule on your computer. Will become hi-tech).

Signal for a compress. comes from the thermostat (?). That's exactly how it works on mine. But, he is very old, stands in the corridor and got it on the occasion ..

In a thermostat? I threw out at my fridge ... it. Held the DS18B20 sensor to the freezer, then connected it to the microcontroller scarf. on atmega328. + relay. Five lines of code and I don’t know the problem. Before that it was like you, it freezes .. it does not freeze .. The refrigerator is not like that.

For the money it turned out: 40r sensor + 120r mic. + Board + 40r - relay with strapping. The program is free.Well, more wires. You can attach an indicator with buttons there at will - an operational display of t and control (+ 200r). Yes, even connect Wi-Fi, and draw a schedule on your computer. Will become hi-tech).

Signal for a compress. comes from the thermostat. This is typical for them.

I apologize for not talking about this model - then I delete the question. Additionally, I created the same thread.
1. Maybe you have a manual for disassembling the Electrolux ERZ 3600 top cover.
2. One of the three NTC sensors of the set (the one on the evaporator) is covered. Can you suggest a suitable replacement. For the original costs $ 40

It is impossible to prepare for breakdowns of household appliances - it breaks down at the most inopportune moment. The hostess is especially discouraged by the moment when the freezer does not work. After all, all products stored in it, for example, meat, fish or ice cream, can deteriorate. Fortunately, in many cases it is possible to repair the freezer with your own hands with some knowledge and tools.

The reason for the appearance of malfunctions in the freezer can be both very simple and commonplace, and quite serious, which cannot be solved without the help of a specialist. From the owners of this household appliance, you can hear the following complaints:

• the freezer does not work;
• the freezer has stopped freezing;
• the freezer does not turn off;
• the device turns on and off immediately.

Let's take a closer look at each situation, and what to do in this case.

In the case when the freezing unit does not turn on, you should not immediately jump to conclusions and think that it has broken down. The first step is to pay attention to the serviceability of the power plug, electrical cable and the outlet itself. It is possible that the wires from the terminals are disconnected in the outlet or plug, or there is a break in the cable veins, and this is the reason that the freezer does not work. Check mains voltage, if it is lowered, the device will not turn on.

Also, for example, in a freezer brand Stinol 106 sometimes there is timer jamwhen set to “defrost” mode. In this case, the unit does not turn on. But if you turn the ratchet a few degrees, the device starts working. The defect with the timer is explained by the fact that the gears are jammed in the clockwork. The Stinol 106 q also has this timer problem.

In addition, the camera may still not work for the following reasons:

• the mechanism that controls the temperature is out of order;
• the compressor has failed;
• the connectors are oxidized.

Of all the above possible factors that can cause the freezer to fail to turn on, you can only repair the outlet, plug or power cord with your own hands.

Plug in any other electrical device to test the outlet. If it works, then look for the reason in the fork. If the plug is okay, ring the cable with a tester. Also, if, when the device is connected to the network, the light inside it does not light up, then this indicates a damaged cable. To check the mains voltage, use a multimeter... To start the device, a voltage of 220 V is required.

If you notice that the freezer does not freeze, and in it the temperature started to rise, you should check the following:

• whether the door fits snugly (a common reason that the unit does not freeze well);
• what position is the thermostat in;
• if the defrost button is on.

So, you checked all the points, but the result has not changed, and the freezer still does not freeze. In this case, this malfunction may cause:

• blockage in the cooling system;
• refrigerant (freon) leak;
• breakdown of the heater (only in devices with the No Frost function, for example, in the Indesit No Frost, Stinol 106 q or Indesit SFR 167 NF freezer);
• breakdown of the thermostat or control unit.

If you suspect that the freezer does not turn off, it is recommended to observe the operation of the device for a while. Normally, he should work in a "one to two" mode, for example, working 10 minutes - resting 20 minutes. Also, the time may increase if the capacity of the unit is half empty, or the room temperature is very high. But, when your observations confirmed that the device does not even think to turn off, or the camera turned off after a long period of time, pay attention to the following points.

This behavior of the apparatus is often encountered when compressor breakdown... The motor turns on and off immediately, or when it starts, it makes strange sounds. The compressor may fail due to wear of the components, for example if the unit is operating at maximum cooling at high ambient temperatures. Unfortunately, the compressor cannot be repaired. To repair the freezer, a complete replacement of the motor-compressor will be required.

For example, replacing the latter in the Indesit SFR 167 NF freezing equipment will cost you at least 2,500 rubles.

Thus, although the freezer does not differ in design complexity, special and expensive equipment (a vacuum pump, gauge manifold, etc.) will be required to carry out a high-quality repair of the main components. Therefore, it is not worth trying to fix the freezer on your own in case of serious problems. This fact is explained by the fact that due to ignorance of some of the nuances, you can make it so that repairing the unit after your intervention will cost you much more.

Without shutdown, the device can work even in case of malfunctions in its various modules.

The freestanding freezer Stinol-106 is equipped with an automatic defrosting system for the evaporator, the so-called No Frost system. This freezer, like other Stinol machines equipped with the No Frost system, is maintenance-free. The refrigeration unit of the model under consideration is designed according to a single compressor scheme. For effective cooling of the entire volume of the freezer, the unit uses an evaporator with increased capacity.

For more information on No Frost system schematics, check out the following articles:
Variants of schemes of the No Frost system
Fan delay relay in No Frost system

L - Phase
N - Neutral
TH1 - thermostat
RH1 - compressor thermal relay
RA1 - compressor start relay
SL1 - indicator lamp
TIM - timer
TR - thermal relay for the electric heater of the evaporator
IMV - fan switch
MV - fan
TF - thermal fuse
CO1 - compressor
R1 - evaporator electric heater
R2 - electric heater of the evaporator pan

A variant of the scheme of the Stinol-106ER refrigerator, presented in the technical factory documentation in 2000.

M - fan motor
SK1 - thermostat
CT - timer
КК, SK - thermal relay with thermal switch
SB - push-button switch
CO - compressor
HLG - indicator lamp
EK1 - evaporator heater
EK2 - drip tray heater

The diagram conditionally shows:
The position of the contacts of the SB pushbutton switch is when the doors of the freezing and refrigerating chambers are open.
The position of the temperature-sensitive contacts of the SK1 thermostat is when the shutdown temperature is reached.

1 - compressor
2 - discharge pipeline
3 - capacitor
4 - filter drier
5 - capillary tube
7 - evaporator
8 - suction pipeline

It's no secret that STINOL refrigerators are widely used in Russia. High technical and consumer characteristics, as well as low price have made this brand truly popular. However, the experience of operating such refrigerators shows that after 5-7 years temperature regulators (or thermostats) fail in them. The most common reason for this is a violation of the tightness of the bellows (thermosensitive element in the regulator). The reason is that the service life of these devices, produced by the German company RANCO, is about 5 years.In this article, we will focus on troubleshooting the K series thermostats in Stinol-101/103 refrigerators, as well as the procedure for replacing them.

Possible defects of refrigerators, in which a check is required, and, if necessary, replacement of temperature controllers

2. The compressor of the refrigerator runs continuously even when the temperature control knob is OFF. The temperature in the freezing and refrigerating chambers (MK and HC) is significantly below normal.

3. The temperature in the MC and HC is above normal even at the maximum position (extreme clockwise) of the temperature control knob.

Using the example of the "Stinol-103" refrigerator, we will consider the procedure for replacing the XK type K-59 thermostat (the type marking and pin numbers are printed on its body). The replacement steps are shown in Fig. 3-9.

Using an awl or a thin screwdriver, pry off the temperature control knobs and remove them (Fig. 3 shows the left knob).

The "Stinol-101" refrigerator has only one temperature control knob.

Then remove the decorative strip 2. The strip has 6 projections that hold it in the dashboard. Two protrusions are located on the sides of the lining and two (bottom and top) at a distance of 17 cm from its edges. Since the cover is made of a fragile material, be careful when removing it. Having removed the cover, unscrew the nuts 1 for fastening the temperature regulators (Fig. 4). Then, the hex screws securing the dashboard are unscrewed. It should be noted that when removing the panel, the last to unscrew the fastening screws of the door hinge plate 1 (Fig. 5). In this case, the door must be supported. After unscrewing all the screws, raise the panel and remove the door. Then, on the back of the refrigerator, the fastening screws are unscrewed and the top cover is removed.

Take out the thermostat from the dashboard (Fig. 6), having previously disconnected the contact connectors from it. In order not to mix up the connectors when

connecting a new regulator, they should be marked.

In the HK, unscrew the plastic cover 1 (Fig. 7) and release the capillary tube 2. Remove the lighting unit 1 (Fig. 8), having previously unscrewed the screw recessed in its housing. Pull the capillary tube of the thermostat outward through hole 2.

Install and connect a new thermostat. When doing this, pay special attention not to damage the capillary tube. There is a section at the end of the tube where there is no insulation material. When installing the tube, make sure that this end is completely hidden under the decorative strip 1 (Fig. 7). To maintain the tightness of the HC, close the hole on the back of the refrigerator, formed during the installation / dismantling of the capillary tube, with plastic mass 1 (Fig. 9). Since the length of the capillary tube is much longer than necessary, it is carefully placed in the free cavities under the top cover of the refrigerator.

It is clear that it is impossible to check thermostats at home; this requires special equipment. However, there is a simple way to check these devices "by eye". At room temperature, contacts 3 and 4 of the "K" series thermostats must be closed. If there are signs of malfunction 1 (see at the beginning of the article), close with a jumper its contact. 3 and 4. If the compressor then turns on, it can be concluded that the thermostat is defective and must be replaced.

It should be noted that the thermostats have adjustment screws. They are usually painted over and adjusting them without special equipment is not recommended.

The table shows the technical characteristics of the "K" series thermostats.

If problems arise with modern household freezing and refrigeration units, when the device cannot maintain a sufficiently low temperature inside the chambers, its owners believe that the compressor is to blame or that the refrigerant has leaked from the system. Often because of these problems, consumers prefer to buy a new refrigerator rather than repair a faulty one.A quick and inexpensive way to deal with the problem of freezing of excess ice and insufficiently low temperature in Stinol units, including Stinol 101 and Stinol 116, is to replace the rubber bands on the refrigerator. Having bought new seals for the doors of the refrigerator and freezer, you can install them yourself.

Replacing the sealing gum

The soft corrugation filling the gap between the refrigerator door and the body loses its elasticity from time to time and wears out. It is most severely damaged if:

1. contamination (food particles) regularly gets on it;
2. it is regularly deformed (by clamping foreign objects between it and the metal surface);
3. it is often treated with aggressive detergents.

Most often, through holes and abrasions on the refrigerator seal are visible to the naked eye. Sometimes the places of multiple small defects are revealed by the local accumulation of condensate or dirt.

Old sealing gum

The need to replace the gum on the Stinol refrigerator door is indicated by symptoms such as:

1. sagging, deformation of the outer edge of the seal;
2. visually detectable loose fit of the door to the body of the device;
3. regular accumulation of ice on the rear wall of the chamber;
4. inability to achieve the required operating temperature in the chambers;
5. significantly extended period of operation of the device before shutting down or turning on the operating mode without stopping.

The resource of the sealing gum is obviously less than the resource of the rest of the device, therefore, the possibility of its replacement is provided by the manufacturer.

Sealing rubber bands for doors of refrigeration units from different manufacturers differ in the type of fastening, shape and quality of the seal, the presence of one or more sealed air chambers along the contour. Otherwise, they are similar - it is a soft elastic material with a magnetic insert for a more snug fit of the door to the body.

The safest way to select replacement parts is by the series name and device number. If for some reason this is not possible, you will have to determine the size and type of part manually. The following are subject to accounting:

1. type of fastener;
2. sealing height;
3. profile type (shape, number of cameras);
4. the size.

Stinol devices are characterized by: type of profile IN and type of fasteners "under the groove" or "under the bar".

Before replacing the gum on the Stinol refrigerator, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

1. flat screwdrivers - 2 pcs.;
2. sealing rubber of the desired profile and size;
3. a screwdriver (or a drill with a nozzle) and 20-25 small (16 mm) galvanized metal screws with a drill bit;
4. mounting hair dryer.

You can replace the cuff with the refrigerator turned off or with the refrigerator turned on. To repair the Stinol apparatus, you do not need to remove the door. To start replacing the corrugation of the upper chamber or freezer, you should carefully dismantle the old seal, which is fixed between the metal outer and plastic inner door casing.

For dismantling you need:

1. open the door;
2. pull the seal away from the metal part of the case (inward) with your left hand, and insert a screwdriver between the tin and the corrugation with your right hand;
3. insert the second screwdriver next to the first and lead from it to the corners of the door, simultaneously moving the seal away from the metal;
4. in the same way, move the cuff away from the inner plastic part of the device body.

Prying the inner edge of the corrugation with a screwdriver, you need to remove it completely from the expanded groove. This should be done carefully so as not to damage the plastic of the door.

The installation of the rubber band into the groove expanded with a screwdriver starts from the corners. After the entire inner part of the cuff is hidden inside the casing, you need to close the door and check its fit around the entire perimeter. The displaced areas should be carefully corrected with a screwdriver, then, opening the door again, check the fit again.

In order for the new sealing gum on the Stinol refrigerator to completely straighten out and take its place, it needs to be slightly warmed up with a mounting hair dryer. This must be done with the door open.

The insulating sleeve on the freezer compartment of the Stinol unit can be changed in the same way as above, except that due to the greater temperature difference between the external and internal environment, the sleeve must be additionally secured against displacement.

If you had to replace the rubber cuff on the freezer door, after installing it, fix the seal with self-tapping screws, driving them into the plastic part of the door with an interval of 10-12 cm.

An overview video will help to remember the sequence of work and change the sealing gum on the Stinol 101 or Stinol 116 refrigerator.

STINOL refrigerators are widely used in Russia. The experience of operating such refrigerators shows that after 5-7 years the temperature regulator (or thermostat) in them fails. The most common reason for this is a violation of the tightness of the bellows - a thermosensitive element in the regulator. The reason is that the service life of these devices, produced by the German company RANCO, is about 5 years. Let's consider the malfunctions of the "K" series thermostats in the "Stinol-101/103" refrigerators, as well as the procedure for their replacement.

• The difference between STINOL models 101 and 103 is that the second has two compressors (separately for the refrigerator and freezer). Compressor switching diagrams in these refrigerators are practically identical, with the exception of the types of elements of the automation system (see, respectively, Fig. 1 and 2).

Rice. one Schematic diagram of the STINOL-101 refrigerator

Rice. 2 Schematic diagram of the STINOL-103 refrigerator

• The article does not include defects in refrigerators caused by malfunctioning compressors, thermal and starting relays, as well as other elements.

Possible defects of refrigerators, in which a check is required, and, if necessary, replacement of temperature controllers

1. The refrigerator compressor does not turn on at any position of the temperature control knob. When the handle is moved to the OFF position, there is no characteristic click.
2. The refrigerator compressor runs continuously even when the temperature control knob is OFF. The temperature in the freezing and refrigerating chambers (MK and HC) is significantly below normal.
3. The temperature in the MC and HC is above normal even at the maximum position (extreme clockwise) of the temperature control knob.

Using the example of the "Stinol-103" refrigerator, we will consider the procedure for replacing the XK type K-59 thermostat (the type marking and pin numbers are printed on its body). The replacement steps are shown in Fig. 3-9.

Using an awl or a thin screwdriver, pry off the temperature control knobs and remove them (Fig. 3 shows the left knob).

• in the "Stinol-101" refrigerator there is only one knob of the temperature regulator. Then, remove the decorative cover 2. The cover has 6 projections that hold it in the dashboard. Two protrusions are located on the sides of the lining and two (bottom and top) at a distance of 17 cm from its edges. Since the cover is made of a fragile material, be careful when removing it. Having removed the cover, unscrew the nuts 1 for fastening the temperature regulators (Fig. 4).

Then, the hex screws securing the dashboard are unscrewed. It should be noted that when removing the panel, the last to unscrew the fastening screws of the door hinge plate 1 (Fig. 5).

In this case, the door must be supported. After unscrewing all the screws, raise the panel and remove the door. Then, on the back of the refrigerator, unscrew the fastening screws and remove the top cover. Remove the thermostat from the dashboard (Fig. 6), having previously disconnected the contact connectors from it.

In order not to confuse the connectors when connecting a new regulator, they should be marked. In the HK, unscrew the plastic cover 1 (Fig. 7) and release the capillary tube 2.

Remove the lighting unit 1 (Fig. 8), having previously unscrewed the screw recessed in its housing.

Pull the capillary tube of the thermostat out through hole 2. Install and connect a new thermostat. When doing this, pay special attention not to damage the capillary tube. There is a section at the end of the tube where there is no insulation material. When installing the tube, make sure that this end is completely hidden under the decorative strip 1 (Fig. 7). To maintain the tightness of the HC, close the hole on the back of the refrigerator, formed during the installation / dismantling of the capillary tube, with plastic mass 1 (Fig. 9).

Since the length of the capillary tube is much longer than necessary, it is carefully placed in the free cavities under the top cover of the refrigerator.

The refrigerator is assembled in reverse order. It should be noted that after installing the door, the screws securing its hinge 1 (Fig. 5) are tightened last.

It is clear that it is impossible to check thermostats at home; this requires special equipment. However, there is a simple way to check these devices "by eye". At room temperature, contacts 3 and 4 of the "K" series thermostats must be closed. If there are signs of malfunction 1, close its contact with a jumper. 3 and 4. If the compressor then turns on, it can be concluded that the thermostat is defective and must be replaced. It should be noted that the thermostats have adjusting screws. They, as a rule, are painted over and their adjustment without special equipment is not recommended. Table 1 shows the technical characteristics of the "K" series thermostats.

Two-chamber Stinol 110L with No Frost and drip system. The signal light on the top panel next to the thermostat is on, but the refrigerator itself does not respond, it worked properly, please help.

If the warning indicator is on, this means that the temperature in one of the chambers is insufficient, the malfunction may be in the leakage of freon from the system or in the breakdown of the thermostat.

I have a Stinol 205 refrigerator. What can be? The freezer is working, but it's warm in the cold room itself.

First, check if the door in the refrigerator compartment is tightly closed and in what condition the seal is. If the seal is damaged or the door is not tightly closed, then it is cold in such hot weather. the camera does not work well. In your case, the following malfunctions may be: Burned out motor-compressor for models with 2 compressors; The thermostat (thermostat) of the refrigerating chamber is faulty; The temperature setting is incorrect. For units with thermostats (mechanical control), the norm is that the regulators are set in a position between
divisions 3 and 4.

Refrigerator Stinol-110 1995. After replacing the compressor, thermostat, dryer filter, replacing the freon, the cold-to works for three days. In the refrigerator compartment, the temperature is normal, but in the freezer the arrow is exactly in the middle (between red and blue), and the food is not frozen (chilled). Behind the tube leading to the compressor, it is all covered in ice. The master says that he poured more freon and it is necessary to bleed a little, and everything will be restored. I played it off a little (5 seconds) four times during the day. I'm afraid to play off the whole thing. There is less frost on the tube, but the temperature in the freezer has not dropped yet. Can I wait a little longer or is there another problem?

If the “return” (back tube) freezes, it is as if ice is clogging up, as if a lot of Freon has been flooded and it is necessary not only to bleed it off, but to refill it again. There is a lot of Freon and it freezes in the wrong place.

Please tell me the possible causes of breakdowns in the single-chamber refrigerator Stinol 205. Cold. the camera works very badly, but the freezer freezes well. At the same time, he is gaining a fur coat very quickly. On the back and on the side, and above and below, even the products are all covered in snow, and the freezer door itself is covered with ice. Defrosting didn't help. The light bulb is on. Although the motor rumbles loudly, it turns off and on as before.

If the cold does not work.camera, the following malfunctions are possible: Leakage of freon in the system. An indirect symptom of a leak is a loud compressor sound; Clogged capillary system; Failure of the thermostat.

How to defrost Stinol 116 EL two-compartment refrigerator?

Refrigerator Stinol 110 (with one compressor, 8-10 years old) in the upper part (2/3) of the HC a "fur coat" began to form, the freezing contour is clear. Repairs were made - replacement of the thermostat, removal of the circuit, refueling 134A. After the repair, the "fur coat" is also formed in the same place, the temperature in the HC remains +2 degrees at any position of the thermostat (from 1 to 5). Near the back wall -8. What could be the reason and how to fix all these malfunctions? The master is going to change the thermostat again.

The reason that, after the repair, a fur coat is formed again, may be in a defective relay. But, also, there may be a blockage in the capillary system. A clearer diagnosis from the master is needed. The blockage can only be determined by opening the system.

The Stinol 110 ER No Frost refrigerator works in 10-12 hours mode, then it turns off, then you have to turn it on forcibly through a timer. Why does the protection work?

If the unit turns off within 10-12 hours, then it is necessary to check it for clogging in the capillary system and freon leakage. The leak is checked by turning off the x-ka for a day. If after that both chambers do not work, then this is a freon leak.

I have a two-compartment refrigerator Stinol 116 EL with one motor-compressor stopped turning off. After replacing the thermostat, the unit turned off only after 14 hours of continuous operation (all drops froze in the cold chamber on the back wall). Did I buy a defective thermostat, or what else can I check? Tell me please.

It depends on which thermostat you have installed. If a thermostat for sub-zero temperatures is installed, then this may be the reason. If you installed a TAM-133 thermostat or an analogue, then in addition to the breakdown of the thermostat, you may also have a freon leak from the system. If the back wall is cold. the chamber is completely covered with frost and the compressor does not turn off, then, most likely, there are problems with the thermostat.

Hol-to stinol 116 er, two chambers. In the freezer minus 22, the refrigerator is warm. The compressor does not shut down at all. The light in it does not light (the spiral is intact), the light next to the temperature regulator also does not light. Help advice, what to make out?

Freon has leaked. This defect cannot be eliminated by itself. Regarding the light, the FOK switch is to blame.

Two-compartment refrigerator Stinol 205 E with one motor-compressor, the freezer is working, but the refrigerator is not.

Most likely, there was a leak of freon from the system. There is still enough freon for the freezer, but no longer for the refrigerator.

Refrigerator Stinol 110 L with one compressor, in the freezer the temperature is -20, -25, in the cold room +15, +20, it works constantly, without shutdown. 3 masters cannot find the cause of the malfunction. Freezer at the top.

Either a blockage in the capillary system, or a freon leak.

Kh-k Stinol 116 periodically begins to “growl”. If you hit it with your fist, it stops. Three-compartment refrigerator, year of manufacture around 2001 What to do? How long does he have to work? Can it be repaired or not worth touching?

If strong sounds periodically occur in the unit, then the reason may be that the compressor touches one of the tubes, or the evaporator inside twitches and touches the dried foam. This does not affect the operation of the unit in any way.

Refrigerator stinol 205 single-compressor. After turning on, it works for about 20 minutes, and the compressor does not turn on anymore. Replaced the thermostat - it did not help. Can the relay on the compressor be affected?

The relay, which is installed on the compressor, is protective. It breaks very rarely due to its simple design. Most likely, we are talking about either a malfunction of the compressor itself, or a failure of the thermostat.

What thermostat is needed for the Stinol 110l No Frost refrigerator? Ranco thermostat K59-L1275 or K59-L1955?

Refrigerator Stinol 116 er.He worked like a clock for more than 10 years. But for no reason, no reason, he stopped freezing. Turned off from the network. When you turn it on, the light comes on in it, it starts to buzz for 5-10 seconds and that's it, then there is silence. What about him?

If the unit turns on for 5-10 seconds and turns off, then the compressor motor has burned out.

How to replace the indicator light on Stinol 110?

Unscrew the self-tapping screw that secures the plafond that covers the hall lighting lamp. cameras. Unscrew the lamp and replace it.

The Stinol 205 refrigerator broke down. I turned it off for defrosting, then turned it on, but it doesn’t work, but the light is on.

In your case, possible malfunctions are a thermostat, a motor-compressor or a freon leak. Touch the back of the condenser (black grid), if it is hot, then there is a malfunction in the motor, if cold, then the thermostat may break down.

Possible problems

Fixing a Stinol refrigerator can be more time consuming than repairing other brands of refrigerator. One of the reasons is the No Frost cooling system, which is fundamentally different from other cooling systems.

Typical faults - Failure of the thermostat. Malfunctions in the No Frost system. Fridge sensor problems. Leakage of refrigerant as a result of leakage of the elements of the refrigerant circuit. Compressor damage. Wear of the rubber door seal. In freezers with a no frost system, there are cases when the defrost of the evaporator and the droplet burn out, less often the fan, timer or defrost fuse fail.

The repair may be caused by a temporary power outage. Reconnecting to the network is allowed no earlier than 4-5 minutes after disconnection. This time is required for condensation and refrigerant pressure drop. Otherwise, the starting load on the compressor motor is too high, which causes overheating of its windings. It is in this situation that engine failure is most likely. In such cases, it is necessary to automatically delay the switching on of the x-ka for about 5 minutes after the mains voltage is restored. This function can be performed by the on-delay timer.

It is worth noting that for the prevention of repairs, the unit should be washed and cleaned 2-3 times a year with a cloth and warm water with a small amount of detergent. In no case should you use chemicals, as well as soap.

The upper chamber of Stinol 116 ceased to cool. What to do?

If the compressor is cold. the camera works without shutting down, but there is no cold, then most likely a refrigerant leak has occurred. In this case, it will be necessary to eliminate the leak, or install a new cold evaporator. chambers with subsequent replacement of the drying cartridge and charging the unit with refrigerant. If the compressor does not work, then most likely this is a malfunction of the thermostat, and it needs to be replaced.

What to do if frost develops on the back wall?

Possibly the door is not closed properly or there is a problem with the sealing rubber. When the compressor is running, it is normal for ice to form on the rear wall as long as there is enough cold in the cold. camera.

Refrigerator Stinol 205. After replacing the K-59 thermostat, it works without shutdown. In the freezer -30, and in the main chamber -0 degrees, this is at the minimum position of the thermostat knob.

Perhaps you have got a defective thermostat or it is not connected correctly.

A "fur coat" freezes on the back wall, the compressor does not turn off, it constantly works.

If the control is mechanical, the thermostat may be out of order. If electronic control, then most likely the temperature sensor or electronic control module is out of order, or there is a micro leak of refrigerant.

Stinol, in operation for 8 years, after defrosting in two days, was turned off only twice for 20 minutes. There is a fur coat on the back wall. What went wrong during defrosting?

It is possible that the camera was damaged during defrosting - this was the reason for the appearance of the fur coat. This may cause the temperature in the chamber to rise. Diagnostics required.

Some strange noise humming with hiss.Frozen in the upper compartment, the compressor is running, hot, but the noise does not stop. For about a month he worked at number 4, turned off the regulator and after a while turned it on at number 1, there was no noise for about 10 minutes, then it reappeared. No frost system. Tell me the malfunction?

This problem may be related to a compressor malfunction. It is also possible for a micro-leakage of refrigerant with air to enter the cooling system, which causes extraneous noise in the operation of the unit.

The freezer runs almost continuously, the compressor turns off for only 10 minutes, the fan runs non-stop, the temperature inside is 24. What is the cause of the breakdown?

Most likely, the reason is a broken temperature sensor. The sensor needs to be replaced.

Please tell me if it is possible to replace the sealing gum on the lower door of the refrigerator in model 110 (size 57x110)?

The seal on the lower door of this model can be replaced.

What kind of malfunctions are there in these models?

There is no cold in the freezer. Refrigerant leakage may be one of the causes of the defect. Sometimes the problem is solved by replacing the thermostat. Rupture of the rubber seal. This is mechanical damage that appears when the door is used carelessly. To open the unit, you need to use the special handle, and not pull on the seal. If there is a rupture of the rubber, then the seal should be replaced. Best of all, this work will be done by a specialist. There is very little cold in the freezer. Such a problem can be provoked by the chamber door not closed completely. The second possible explanation for the disadvantage is that the defrost system heaters have burned out. As a result, the snow "coat" does not thaw on the evaporator of the freezer. Sometimes the source of the deficiency is a clogged drainage system. This problem can be fixed fairly quickly.