DIY motorcycle repair Minsk

In detail: DIY motorcycle repair Minsk from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Remove the motor from the frame, before disconnecting the muffler. First you need to assemble the tool necessary for disassembly (listed below). And only after that you can start working with the engine.

Minus screwdriver [preferably good, long, strong]
Impact screwdriver (optional)
13 spanner
Key for 19
Adjustable wrench (optional)
Spoke from motorcycle, bicycle
Hammer [preferably with a wooden handle]
Ratchet with turnkey attachments for 13
Mallet (optional)
Metal plate at least 15 cm long and no more than 1 cm thick. (Optional)
Candle wrench

Now you can remove the piston. First, remove the spark plug (optional!). Take the candle key and unscrew it. At the same time, you can check its condition (it should be pale, brick in color). We take the ratchet and unscrew the four nuts on the cylinder head with a spanner wrench. Now you can carefully pull up to remove the head from the pins. Disconnect the carburetor from the cylinder, for this you need to unscrew two nuts on the adapter by 13. Having removed the carburetor, remove the cylinder from the studs. We remove the gasket from under the cylinder (usually it remains at the bottom when removed). That's all the piston has been successfully removed. 🙂 (If you wish, you can remove the piston and for this we bend two washers on the piston, remove the finger and take out the piston).

Video (click to play).

We turn the engine to the side of the generator. We unscrew the gearbox cover, for this we take a screwdriver in our hands and remove all the bolts securing the cover. Now we remove it by hand, take out all the shafts of the gearbox, the shift shaft. There is no need to shoot the wings! The engine can be cracked easily without it!

There was little left to do. Unscrew the remaining bolts. Carefully check if you have removed all the bolts from the engine crankcases !! We knock out two guides (on the engine mounts) with a hammer and an impact screwdriver. We knock the halves of the crankcase lightly with a hammer or mallet and separate them from each other. The engine is halved! At this point, the disassembly can be completed. If desired, you can knock out the crankshaft, for this, through the plate (thick), knock on the crankshaft with a hammer. Stories about how you harm the crankshaft so delirium, because thousands of people have done so and nothing is driving the engine! Do not listen to connoisseurs about pullers, let them do all this on foreign cars, and Soviet technology is made with a hammer and a screwdriver.

Good luck to everyone in the disassembly! Be thrifty and careful and have a little patience: 0

Instructions with comments

Diagram, comments, ignition setting algorithm

Assembly, disassembly, repair and tuning

Detailed diagram with a description of the connection

Connection instructions, diagram

Wiring diagram, instruction, video

Materials and step-by-step instructions

Assembly, disassembly, repair and tuning

Scheme with comments in video description

Diagram, types of carburetors, tuning algorithm

Wiring plan with decoding

Troubleshooting common problems

Several ways to recover

Welding and Installation Tips

Ideas and options for implementation

Assembly-disassembly diagram, repair tips

General does not work
torus on il planet5 when driving a red ignition lamp is on

This site uses Akismet to combat spam. Find out how your comment data is processed.

You can download movies, clips, episodes, trailers for free, and you do not need to visit the Youtube site itself.

Download and watch an ocean of endless video in high quality. Everything is free and without registration!

Motorcycle repair Minsk is a rather complicated process. This vehicle brand is a Belarusian motorcycle created in Soviet times. It is characterized by very strict classical lines. But as a result of the gradual economic recession at the enterprise, engineers were forced to significantly reduce the budget, as well as to use cheaper parts made from low quality materials for the manufacture of machines, which was the main reason for a significant deterioration not only in the external design, but also in the generally accepted standards of this type of equipment. ... Therefore, the motorcycle Minsk 125 needs to be repaired with the replacement of spare parts for better quality parts.

The Minsk motorcycle is equipped with an engine with a fairly simple mechanism, which, if necessary, can be modified. Thanks to this feature, the Belarusian apparatus is suitable for participation in circuit races or various sports motorcycle competitions. Nevertheless, it is necessary to regularly carry out technical inspection and repair of the Minsk motorcycle in order to ensure the reliable operation of the transport, as well as increase the duration of its operational period.
It should be noted that the engine has good enough performance, which makes it possible for the owner of the motorcycle to use it to perform various operations involving the transportation of heavy loads over long distances. This part is distinguished by a simple design of the mechanism and fairly simple maintenance. However, regardless of the enormous popularity of this brand, like all other motorcycle models produced in Soviet times, such a device has a significant drawback, which is that repairing Minsk with your own hands requires a lot of time.

Motorcycle Minsk engine repair highly qualified specialists recommend starting with incomplete disassembly of the motor structure. The actions must be carried out according to the following scheme:

It is recommended to start repairing a motorcycle Minsk with a thorough cleaning of the unit using ordinary water with the addition of various cleaning agents.

Washing the engine from dirt on a motorcycle Minsk

Antennae that hold the clutch pressure plate

In the event of a visible violation of the shape of the ball, it is recommended to replace it with a new element.

When repairing a Minsk motorcycle with your own hands, you need to completely remove all the contacts that come from the generator, but you should first mark the location of each of them.

The next step is to remove the star and chain. In addition, in most cases it is necessary to replace the old lock washer with a new one because this element wears out rather quickly.

Remove the sprocket along with the chain

The head on the engine block is unscrewed and the existing gasket is replaced.

While repairing Minsk motorcycles, the video can be watched to see the sequence of removing the rings, as well as stoppers from the vehicle's engine block.

Motorcycle Minsk engine repair photo shows that after a small wooden block is placed under the cylinder, you need to get a finger out of it without damaging the connecting rod structure.

The pistons are examined for the presence of visible cracks and various chips on their surface. This is due to the mandatory requirement to eliminate all defects.

This method allows for incomplete disassembly of the engine. However, the Minsk motorcycle operation and repairs must be carried out at the proper level, therefore, if during the ride the car was subjected to sufficiently strong shocks and knocks, then a complete disassembly of the motor is required, carried out in accordance with the relevant instructions. In addition, sometimes it is only necessary to carry out routine cleaning of individual parts. So, as a result of cleaning the carburetor, an improvement in the flow of fuel is observed, and the replacement of the air filter allows to increase the air flow into the engine, ensuring the purity of the fuel-air mixture used. Repair of a motorcycle Minsk is required to be carried out according to the instructions so as not to disrupt the serviceability of the parts.

Every driver of a car has hit a stone in the windshield more than once and there was a crack -
windshield repair kit.

Now you do not need to take your car to the service for sealing cracks on the glass, you can do it yourself.
The setting and hardening time takes up to 30 minutes.
Leaves no marks on glass.
Just 5 easy steps and your glass is like new. Watch HERE

All this you can thanks to ... Read more >>>

Today it is possible to do not only repair of the Minsk motorcycle engine, but also its completion. Thus, the power of the motor is increased, which leads to an improvement in the general technical characteristics. This procedure includes:

Complete disassembly of the engine.
It is necessary to insert rings into the crankcase, and then fasten them tightly to slightly reduce the parameters of the crank chamber.
It is necessary to supply oil seals with improved properties capable of withstanding sufficiently large loads.
It is better to equip the engine with a K-36 carburetor, which will significantly increase the compression ratio.
Motorcycle Minsk, the engine bulkhead assumes so that all the windows for blowing are neatly sawn up to 20 mm.
It is recommended to increase the size of the outlet pipe to 310 mm.
A duralumin connecting rod must be installed in the crankshaft.
In order to improve the technical characteristics, it is necessary to install a new air filter with a sufficiently large size.

With the help of such a boost, the power of this engine will increase by about 7 kW. It is not at all difficult to carry out such a Minsk motorcycle repair with your own hands.

Repair of Minsk 125 clutch box is necessary to ensure the transfer of torque from the vehicle motor to its gearbox. Due to this, the beginning of the movement is obtained as slow as possible, and the engine and all elements of the transmission are preserved from all kinds of violations that often occur when the speed of rotation of the wheels or the engine changes.
The Minsk motorcycle clutch repair is a fix for the four driving clutch discs and a special lever attached to the left side of the handlebars. Ensure that the clutch on the machine is correctly adjusted at all times. A small adjustment screw is used for proper adjustment.

The process itself is performed like this:

It is necessary to remove the plug installed on the crankcase cover;
Then the repair of the Minsk motorcycle clutch involves the release of the locknut;
The screw should be slowly unscrewed to such an extent that the fungus eventually rests firmly on the clamping disk;
Then the adjustment screw is loosened by about a quarter of a turn;
Finally, be sure to tighten the lock nut.

If the clutch box works in a disordered state or with partially broken parts, then a complete vehicle failure is possible.After all, timely repair of the Minsk motorcycle and the clutch lever ensures reliable performance of gear changes, braking, stopping and starting the unit.

Motorcycle repair Minsk involves regular inspection, as well as the correction of the chassis. When repairing the Minsk motorcycle front fork, disassemble it correctly, and at the end ensure the assembly of the structure, because it has a rather complex design.

Work order:

When repairing a motorcycle Minsk, its fork, you should, first of all, remove the wheel and disconnect its front part of the fender;
The nuts used for mounting the lane are unscrewed;
The spring mechanism is removed;
Then the tie bolts installed on the lower bridge are released;
Motorcycle Minsk repair of the front fork. A further step is to remove the feather from the bridges. In parallel, you need to hold the sliding tube with your hand. If it is difficult to remove it, then it is wrapped up to half of the nut, which is then hit several times with a block of wood;
On the upper bridge, the tightening bolt and lock nut are released to remove the cover, cap and gasket made of rubber;
To make repairs to the Minsk motorcycle of this element, it is also required to remove the oil seal housing using a pipe wrench, and disconnect the oil seal and anther;
The sliding tube is carefully removed from the carrier and the used oil is drained;
Then the upper bushing and the O-ring are removed to get the rebound spring and a special piston equipped with a rod from the inside;
The retaining rings holding the lower sleeve and piston are unscrewed.

To complete the repair of the Minsk motorcycle fork, you need to clean all the parts, replace outdated or damaged elements, and then assemble the structure.

In some cases, repairing a Minsk motorcycle requires only adjusting the ignition system. This mainly happens when a problem occurs with the engine, and therefore it does not turn on. Some models have a special mechanical type ignition system. Motorcycle Minsk ignition repair is needed to eliminate the causes of deformation of the gaps that are between the ignition contacts. In addition, motorcycle repair Minsk allows you to correctly adjust the outline for a well-coordinated and uninterrupted operation of the mechanism.

Secondly, replacing the standard muffler with resonator made of sheet steel will allow not only to lose weight, but also to significantly increase the power at medium and high engine speeds of the Minsk 125 motorcycle. Such tuning Minsk will not only improve the performance, acceleration and maximum speed, but also make your faithful friend much more economical!

Replacing all of its bearings with imported counterparts will be a good prophylaxis for the engine. Due to the increased power of the motorcycle, the load on them will increase. Any Japanese bearing firm has a decent workmanship and a huge selection.

Another easy way to increase engine power is increase in compression ratio... To do this, you need to trim the surface of the engine cylinder head by a couple of mm, this can be done on a lathe, or manually, using a piece of glass for this, placing it on a flat table, get a perfectly smooth surface on which a sheet of sandpaper is glued onto double-sided tape. Then the layer of metal is grinded in a circular motion. After such tuning compression ratio in the cylinder will increase, which will also help to achieve fuel economy and increase the motorcycle's power. In this case, you will need to fill in the 92nd gasoline.

Due to the increased power, the clutch basket may need to be upgraded. To do this, remove the standard clutch discs, process them to a thinner state, removing 2 mm of metal from each disc, which will allow adding several more such clutch discs. Since their number will increase, which means the contact area will become larger, the efficiency of the transmission of torque to the wheel will increase.

Tuning Minsk is not limited to the above. The installation of a microprocessor-based contactless ignition system (MPSZ) will improve the response of the Minsk motorcycle engine to the throttle handle, eliminate problems with starting the engine in cool weather, and also allow you to get smooth engine operation over the entire range,due to the fact that the spark occurs in proportion to the increase in the number of revolutions of the crankshaft. The higher the revolutions, the earlier the moment the spark appears. Cam ignition will never achieve such results, it is not reliable and often gets lost.

Every owner of Minsk 125 has thought about the appearance of his motorcycle at least once. Perhaps we should start by repainting the frame and other motorcycle parts. The first thing to do is remove the steering wheel, seat, tank, engine, wheels, fork and other parts to leave a bare frame. Sandblast the parts to be repainted or remove the old paint layer with special nozzles for a grinder / drill. The drill attachment for an emery wheel with Velcro is also very effective for this. Be sure to get rid of the centers of corrosion. The next stage is filling. This is necessary to get rid of deep scratches, leveling the surface. Degrease parts with a leveled surface to prepare for priming. Apply the primer in 2 layers. Dried soil should be abraded with 400 grit sandpaper. Then paint in the color you like in 2-3 layers, followed by coating with a layer of varnish in 3 layers. The metallic color on your motorcycle Minsk 125 will look very impressive.

The next way of tuning Minsk is polishing the engine crankcase to a mirror finish. This procedure can also be done with your own hands using a set of sandpaper with a grain size of 120-180 to 2500. By grinding the engine surface in steps from coarse to finer, you will achieve an ideal matte surface. At the end of this work, using GOI paste, a felt wheel and a drill, achieve the final mirror surface. Motorcycle engine Minsk will immediately change!

This procedure applies to rims, spokes and muffler - it will help them shine in a new way.

New road tires are a good investment. The new tread pattern is not only effective when driving on wet asphalt, but also looks attractive. Replacing lighting equipment will also suit everyone's taste. For example, LED turn signals and a brake light will not only give a modern look, but will also reduce the load on the generator, as well as increase road safety when driving in the dark. Separately, it should be noted about the effectiveness of the xenon installation. Recommended warmth of light - 4300K as it is the most neutral white light, does not cause fatigue on the eyes and gives the best illumination. A useful tuning for Minsk will be the installation of new chrome mirrors, which will also significantly increase driving safety and complement the transformation of the motorcycle. In conclusion, I want to note that these tuning actions can be performed selectively at will and combined according to your taste and financial capabilities.

Motorcycle engine Minsk extremely simple in its design and quite easy to repair. But still, some beginners do not understand how to start disassembling the engine, or even how to do it correctly. In this article, we will look at the disassembly of the Minsk engine.Remove the motor from the frame, before disconnecting the muffler. First you need to assemble the tool necessary for disassembly (listed below). And only after that you can start working with the engine.

Minus screwdriver [preferably good, long, strong]

Impact screwdriver (optional)

13 spanner

Key for 19

Adjustable wrench (optional)

Spoke from motorcycle, bicycle

Hammer [preferably with a wooden handle]

Ratchet with turnkey attachments for 13

Mallet (optional)

Metal plate at least 15 cm long and no more than 1 cm thick. (Optional)

Candle wrench

In principle, this is the entire list of tools that we need to disassemble the internal combustion engine. Now it is necessary to prepare the workplace, it can be an ordinary table of a convenient height. The main thing is not to do disassembly somewhere on the ground, in sand and dust. The best place for such an action, of course, is the garage!Now you can remove the piston. First, remove the spark plug (optional!). Take the candle key and unscrew it. At the same time, you can check its condition (it should be pale, brick in color). We take the ratchet and unscrew the four nuts on the cylinder head with a spanner wrench. Now you can carefully pull up to remove the head from the pins. Disconnect the carburetor from the cylinder, for this you need to unscrew two nuts on the adapter by 13. Having removed the carburetor, remove the cylinder from the studs. We remove the gasket from under the cylinder (usually it remains at the bottom when removed). That's all the piston has been successfully removed. 🙂 (If you wish, you can remove the piston and for this we bend two washers on the piston, remove the finger and take out the piston).We turn the engine to the side of the generator. We unscrew the gearbox cover, for this we take a screwdriver in our hands and remove all the bolts securing the cover. Now we remove it by hand, take out all the shafts of the gearbox, the shift shaft. There is no need to shoot the wings! The engine can be cracked easily without it!There was little left to do. Unscrew the remaining bolts. Carefully check if you have removed all the bolts from the engine crankcases !! We knock out two guides (on the engine mounts) with a hammer and an impact screwdriver. We knock the halves of the crankcase lightly with a hammer or mallet and separate them from each other. The engine is halved! At this point, the disassembly can be completed. If desired, you can knock out the crankshaft, for this, through the plate (thick), knock on the crankshaft with a hammer. Stories about how you harm the crankshaft so delirium, because thousands of people have done so and nothing is driving the engine! Do not listen to connoisseurs about pullers, let them do all this on foreign cars, and Soviet technology is made with a hammer and a screwdriver.Good luck to everyone in the disassembly! Be thrifty and careful and have a little patience: 0 Image - DIY motorcycle repair Minsk

This is a reference book for small motorcycles of the MINSK brand. In this useful guide, you can find a large amount of information about the models: M1A, M1M, M-103, M-104, M-105, MMVZ-3.111, MMVZ-3.115, MMVZ-3.112, MMVZ-3.112.1, MMVZ-3.1121 .2, MMVZ-3.113, MMVZ-3.1131.
Read about the features of the maintenance and operation of this technique. A large number of schemes, tables are presented to your attention.

By admin on 10/03/2014 Posted in Books and References

The names of domestic motorcycles sound proud and sad overnight. A couple of generations and they will all be forgotten 100%. And physically it will not be found. Everything will go to scrap. I myself love my family two-wheeled. But he is able to admit the truth!

Are you here "Forum about repair and tuning of motorcycles" MINSK "," VOSKHOD "" Useful articles "Complete engine overhaul of the motorcycle" MINSK "

You will need a special tool - for example, it is not easy to remove the crank from the motor without pullers. If you do not find it at the familiar owners of Minsk and Kovrov motorcycles, the device can be made according to the drawing.

Wash the engine: cleanliness is the key to a successful repair.

Start the engine - let it run and dry, then stop it and drain the oil from the gearbox.

Remove the right crankcase cover and disassemble the clutch release mechanism located in the cover.

Disconnect the cable, the return spring, unscrew the worm shaft and shake out the support ball. If it is out of shape, replace it.

Disconnect the generator wiring by tagging the wire accessories to each terminal.

Disconnect the wheel drive chain, release the drive sprocket. You can do otherwise - remove the chain along with the sprocket. To do this, straighten the sprocket nut lock washer, “fix” the motorcycle with the brakes to prevent it from moving and unscrew the nut (turn it clockwise - left-hand thread).

You can discard the lock washer - it is better to install a new one during assembly.

Now “tighten” the nut into place so that the driven shaft does not fall out of the bearing when the gearbox cover is removed.

Remove the engine from the frame, remove the clutch rod and intermediate ball (it will roll out by itself if you tilt the engine to its right side, although sometimes the engine has to shake). Unscrew the fasteners and take out the generator stator. According to the instructions, it is necessary to remove the rotor from the crankshaft trunnion with a special puller. But you can do it differently (this method is also recommended by the motorcycle manufacturer) - unscrew the fasteners by 2-3 turns, grab the rotor and pound the bolt head with a hammer.

However, this method is fraught with danger - inadvertently you can at least hammer the thread as much as damage the crankshaft (hammer the crankshaft journal). Do this: unscrew the tightening bolt, cut the M10x1 (1.5) thread in the rotor hole. Screw in a long bolt with a pointed tip (8-10 mm) - and then easily pull the rotor off the crankshaft. After removing the generator, immediately remove the key from the shaft.

We pass to the cylinder-piston group. After unscrewing the nuts securing the cylinder head, remove the washers, then the head itself. Lower the piston to BDC. Lightly strike the ribs of the shirt with your palms up and down several times and you can remove the cylinder.

Do not take care of the gasket under the cylinder - prepare a replacement for it in advance, as well as other "seals".

Spread (a couple of millimeters) the ends of the upper piston ring with your fingers and insert three thin plates into the gap - this makes it easier to remove the ring. Repeat the operation with the lower ring. Remove the piston pin stoppers with an awl or a sharpened nail (before that, do not forget to close the neck of the crankcase with a clean rag - the stoppers usually tend to fall into it). Remove the finger itself with a punch, but first place a block of wood under the piston (on the opposite side). Be careful not to bend the connecting rod.

Using a calibrated dipstick, assess the condition of the piston. If you notice seizures on the skirt and the gap between it and the cylinder mirror is more than 0.25 mm - buy a new part.

Insert the rings into the cylinder to a depth of 20-30 mm and measure the gap in the locks. Rings with a gap of not more than 1.0 mm are considered capable. Do not waste time checking parts with mileage close to 30 thousand km - their resource is exhausted.

Remove the kickstarter and gear shift levers, remove the left crankcase cover and disassemble the engine transmission. With a hook (made of wire or wheel spokes), discard the springs from the pressure plate, remove the mushroom, drive and driven discs.

Check the status of the entire set. Fix the drive sprocket with some copper (or aluminum) bar so that it does not turn over - insert it between the teeth and the chain.

Unscrew the nut securing the sprocket, remove the spring washer. When assembling, it is advisable to replace it with a new one - over time, the elasticity of the part is lost. Remove the sprocket from the landing cone with a puller - for this, any universal one with two or three legs will do.

Under the nut holding the clutch basket, straighten the edges of the lock washer. Place a wrench made from a used driven disc with a welded handle onto the splines of the inner clutch. Unscrew the nut with the left-hand thread on the input shaft of the gearbox - now the motor gear can be removed without hindrance. A key is installed under the drive sprocket - remove it and take care that it does not "dissolve" on the workbench. Observe the same "safety measures" in relation to the two washers and the sleeve belonging to the clutch shaft.

Disassemble and inspect the drive clutch from the "rear" - backlash of rivets in the ratchet transmission from the kick is unacceptable! Check and the gear teeth, if they are "eaten", change the clutch assembly. Integers? Tighten the rivets with a hammer, mandrel, and the hands of an experienced craftsman.

Before disassembling the gearbox, reset the kickstarter spring and remove the shaft itself. Unscrew the fasteners and, tapping the cover around the perimeter with a mallet, remove it. Remove from the gearbox compartment the shaft of the gear shift forks, then the movable gear from the input shaft together with the fork.Remove the input shaft and countershaft with gear sets and then the first gear on the countershaft. On the gear shift shaft, sink one of the pawls into the bore and remove the shaft from the crankcase. Inspect the shift disc without removing it. If its grooves for the cleats of the forks and the projections in contact with the pawls are not broken, the part will still serve. Replace gears if you see that they have chipped teeth or wear more than 0.3 mm in thickness. It is also unacceptable to work out on the "cone" of the gear engagement cams. When worn up to 0.5 mm, the cams are repaired - level them with a thin abrasive wheel so that the working planes of the cams make an angle of 4-6 ° with the gear end. Change the speed engagement forks if the wear of the antennae planes exceeds 0.2 mm. Change the shafts too if their splines are wrinkled. Replace bearings in which you find play in the inner race.

The "Minsk" gearbox has one undoubted advantage: you can replace some of its parts without removing the engine from the motorcycle. An exception is the drive shaft and bearings located in the crankcase. Therefore, if you do not need to change them, as well as the crankshaft, further disassembly of the motor can be omitted.

Knock out the bushings from the "ears" of the engine to the frame at the front of the crankcase. Remove all screws holding the crankcase halves together. Install a special puller on the right plane of the motor and push the crank journal out of the bearing. In the same way or using a press, remove the left half of the crankcase. Entrust the repair of the "Minsk" crank only to an experienced master who works with the necessary equipment.

Remove the oil seals, bearings, bushings and oil squeeze washers from the bore holes and inspect the crankcase: you will notice that there are cracks in its walls, in which holes for the shafts are made, replace the crankcase with a new one. Do not try to replace only one of its halves - the bearing axes will not line up.

The following defects are eliminated: cracks and chips on the crankcase planes, slight wear of the bearing holes, partial thread stripping in the holes for the studs and bolts.

Damage to the metal is sealed with "cold welding" or epoxy resin with the addition of up to 50% aluminum powder and a small amount of starch or flour. Apply a thread locking agent (the hardest class) to the bearing races that enter the holes without interference and to the loose fasteners during assembly.

Assemble the engine in reverse order, tighten the fasteners with a torque wrench. I would like to point out some of the subtleties of assembling parts. Apply a thin layer of sealant to the cleaned surfaces of the crankcase - the gasket will "connect" the motor to it more reliably. Place the crank into the bearings - first on the right, then on the left side of the crankcase. Tap the motor halves (around the pins) with a mallet. Hammer in the oil seals with a mandrel - otherwise you will bend their cages and then the tightness of the mating will not be ensured. Put the cuff of the right half of the motor on the shaft using a guide sleeve (roll it up from cardboard) - without it, the spring ring can break off the oil seal. Charge the kickstarter spring one turn before installing the motor transmission, then insert the shaft into the crankcase. Place the thickest driven disc first in the clutch basket.

Assemble the gearbox as follows: lubricate the shaft seats with Litol: sink the pawls into the bushings and install the gear shift shaft, mount the input shaft with the 2nd gear gear. Place the 1st gear of the intermediate shaft in the crankcase with the smooth side in the gearbox cover. Put the fork on the movable gear of the intermediate shaft and put them in the gearbox. Install the shaft itself in them. Passing the axle (with the flow downwards) through the holes of the shift forks, at the same time install the cleats of the forks into the grooves of the shift disc. If it is not possible to align the forks shaft with the hole in the gearbox cover, open the bearing cover and use a screwdriver to help the shaft slide into place. At the same time, check that the thickness of the washers corresponds to the clearances above the bearings.After closing and securing the cover, adjust the axial travel of the shift shaft - loosen the lock nut, tighten the support screw to the end, then unscrew it 1 / 4-1 / 2 turn and tighten its nut.

Fill the gearbox with half a liter of engine oil.

Having assembled the engine, adjust the ignition timing: rotating the crank, set the piston to TDC, then lower it by 2-2.5 mm (rotate the shaft counterclockwise) and align the groove on the rotor with the axis of the ignition sensor core, then normalize the gap “sensor - rotor "- it should be 0.3-0.5 mm.

When tightening the fastening of the parts, make sure that the settings are not lost.

Video (click to play).

Mount the engine to the motorcycle and start running in the engine. Carry it out without fail (I'm sure the pilots know the program itself), and then you will get a confident engine mileage of almost fifty thousand miles.

Rate the article:

Grade 3.2 who voted: 84