DIY hydronic brain repair

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Prestarting heaters HYDRONIC (Hydronic)from Eberspacher are the most expensive of their brothers - devices manufactured Webasto, Chinese Belief, Russian binar.
The reason for the increased cost, according to the manufacturer, is the use of a different heater burner device and the use of a two-phase fuel combustion scheme, requiring the introduction of more complex production technologies. This contributes to less carbon formation on the parts and, as a result, greater reliability of the device.
But, nevertheless, heater breakdowns are inevitable. Let's consider the reasons due to which the Hydronic, which has already been used for some time, does not start. First of all, we will inspect the diagnostic and troubleshooting options, if at the time of Hydronic failure you do not have information about the device's fault codes, and the Internet is for some reason unavailable.

Heater circuit Hydronic

Reasons for heater failure:

The Hydronic heater is a complex technical product, so its malfunctions and breakdowns are inevitable.

• broken wiring, oxidation of the connecting terminals in the electrical circuit of the device;
• a weak response to the power button indicates insufficient battery charging;
• the control unit has blocked the heater due to exceeding the minimum or maximum threshold values ​​of the supply circuit voltage;
• breakdown of the control unit, sensors and other parts of the device.

Heater diagnostics Hydronic

• the formation of air jams in the cooling system, as a result of which the temperature sensors of the device overheat, and the control unit turns off the fuel supply;
• low quality coolant;
• interruption of the fuel supply to the heater burner. In addition to the violation (clogging) of the fuel line and the breakdown of the metering pump, this can be caused by poor fuel quality and excessive contamination of the fuel tank. Diesel Hydronic does not start in frost due to gelation in diesel fuel, therefore, it is recommended to install fuel heating.

Excessive smoke in the exhaust in combination with stoppages in the heater operation is caused by excessive coking of the combustion chamber and exhaust pipe. It is eliminated by cleaning from carbon deposits.

If the pre-heater does not start, and the display of its modular timer writes “Error”, then, having independently identified the malfunction and eliminating it, you can diagnose the device. It is better to check the heater and remove errors and their faults in a preventive manner.
Heater error codes and a short description of the malfunction:

It is possible to diagnose all elements of the Hydronic heater only during its operation.

• 011, 012 — voltage thresholds exceeded. It is most often caused by battery discharge, generator breakdown, broken wiring, oxidation of contacts;
• 012, 014 - overheating or the possibility of overheating. Disruption of coolant circulation, leakage, air locks. Breakdown of the circulation pump, temperature sensors;
• 015 - controller blocking due to overheating. The reasons are the same as for errors 012 and 014. It is necessary to remove the error;
• 017 - emergency shutdown caused by overheating. The reasons are stated above;
• 020, 021 - spark plug malfunction;
• 030, 031, 032, 038, 039 - the air intake fan speed has changed.The main reasons are increased resistance to rotation due to pollution, open circuit of the fan power supply, short circuit of wiring, oxidation of contacts;
• 041, 042 - malfunctions associated with the circulation pump and its power supply;
• 047, 048 - breakdowns in the fuel supply system associated with the metering pump;
• 050 - blocking of the control unit due to unsuccessful starts. It is necessary to remove the error after troubleshooting;
• 051, 052 - exceeding the permissible time. Breakdowns associated with the flame sensor, the operation of the metering pump, the supply of air to the combustion chamber;

If other error codes are displayed, then it is best to contact a specialist, since special tests will be required on professional diagnostic equipment. Repairing Hydronic "brains" is an occupation for professionals in electronics, semiconductors can fail even from the slightest discharge of static electricity caused by touch.

Modular timer Hydronic

If you decide to repair and start Hydronic with your own hands, then start with the simplest.
Firstly, evaluate the reaction of the heater to the start command. A complete lack of reaction indicates a wiring violation or blocking of the control unit, as well as a discharge of the battery. If the pre-heater supply voltage for 20 seconds was below the minimum threshold value of 10.2 V, then the controller is locked. If there are no measuring instruments, the state of charge of the battery can be assessed by the operation of the sound signal, the light of the headlights when they are switched on for a short time, etc.
Carefully inspect all electrical connectors belonging to the Hydronic circuit. A break in the wiring could occur due to excessive oxidation of the contacts, which is checked by twitching the connections for a break.

One of the reasons for heater failure is antifreeze leakage. Check its level in the system and visually assess the quality of the coolant.

With a simple probe (lamp + wire), check if voltage is supplied to the pump, metering pump, ignition system.
Evaluate how freely air flows into the combustion chamber and the exhaust gases are removed from it. The intake and exhaust pipes clogged with dirt, ice, snow can be the reason that the Hydronic auxiliary heater does not start.
Air locks in the cooling system can be caused by a malfunctioning valve in the expansion tank cap (or radiator neck). But this can only be installed by removing the cover in advance. If the subsequent start-up is successful, replace the cover.
If you have found that the malfunction lies in a faulty part (assembly) of the heater, then the repair will be reduced to replacing the latter. Therefore, if the warranty period of the heater has not expired, but it was installed, as they say, by "officials", then the possible delivery of the car by a tow truck to the workshop will justify itself - the prices for spare parts for HYDRONIC are considerable.
For trouble-free operation of the device in the future, read the factory installation and operation manual for Hydronic. Most likely, a careful study of the factory requirements and recommendations will point you to mistakes made out of ignorance.

The creation of this topic pursues one, but very important idea - to try to repair control units on your own, because the difference in the cost of a new unit (15 thousand rubles) and p / parts (10 - 1000 rubles) is incommensurable, so it makes sense to do it.
I suggest everyone who is interested to post the redrawn schemes (in whole or in part) in the topic. And the experience of repair, if possible, then maybe we will overcome this problem.
Specifically, I am currently interested in the Hydronic B5 WS control unit

p. s.
Please do not repeat the materials about the opening of the sealant, etc., discussed earlier.

“You are to blame for what I want. ”(C) from the fable.
And it was not necessary to be rude.
This is a warning, by the way.

For new users, some of the functions are limited (admin settings) - protection from spammers, etc. "Writers", with 1. N posts.
And also from those who demand a lot, without helping others.
https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3229/forums/annou. php? f = 113 & a = 44

PS: Subject, a bit about something else. (I'll clean it later).

Not "out of malice", but simply to ask, you read the topic , for example (what devices are discussed in given ) haven't tried?

Let me remind you that the topic is about “wet” appliances, see p. # 1:

I repeat the thesis of the emperor ya))) - why bother? Moreover, if you do not know how to treat.
I see the forum more and more begins to serve as a disservice. The further - the more "specialists" who undertake to repair the brain. Took it - do it! Or - Lithuania is nearby.

In the header of this section, I would like to see the inscription, in huge red letters:

IF YOUR EDUCATION IS A PTU, DO NOT CLIMB. GOT IN - TO THE OFFICIAL REPRESENTATIVE OF ABERSHPEHER IN THE REGION!
FOR FULL COST.

And for the masters - a wish. Almost all new topics and questions: “I undertook to do it, but I don’t understand nichrome, show me in the photo what to poke at with a soldering iron”. I suggest just ignoring all such posts and topics. It will be easier for the moderator to sweep all the nafik.

And I have a lot of donors now! They kill at the end. I take the killed for the "inexpensive". I already know the handwriting of the repair who breaks the connector in G2 so as not to unsolder it, but to pull it out to the other side. There is no complete soldering, which can be seen through an unopened vixynth. The dosing pump does not work, the key is not soldered. I did not ask about the warranty for repairs. The stove has arrived for repairs. Well, etc.

I have already calmed down on this topic.

Well, I ask a couple of questions before culturally sending. If a person knows what he is doing, then I help, it's not difficult for me. And lamers, donors to my piggy bank. I just take the dead for details. Then you can assemble a working unit out of 5-10 and sell it, but already a little more expensive. Or who urgently needs it, or under a guarantee (so that a person is not kept in line). I don’t take much more than my main job. So the losses for the user are not great. Let them break it. For then they know what the money is paid for. (for a guarantee of work however).

The best specialist is Aunt Manya, an installer from the radio factory. No one will solder it better, believe me. But Aunt Manya will never REPAIR a broken device. Why did you decide that it was only a matter of soldering? Not at all, or rather, not only.
That is why REPAIRS and tear up a lot of money for a simple poke with a screwdriver - they UNDERSTAND WHERE and WHY they poke. And also - where you do not need to poke. And now, imagine - the name of the master is to fix what has already been stuck by someone outside. Where will those calling go?

What is it all for. Many Kulibins have already appeared in my region, having read about “soldering” and nailed a bunch of blocks to error 99 at best. Exactly the same problem with the panels in Scene 2 - I quit studying them after the Kulibins. I have devoted more than 30 years of my life to such a direction as radio engineering. How many days (.) Have you devoted to this direction? And how should I react?

You may be unpleasantly amazed, lost in conjecture, why the hydronic does not start, and the methods of repairing this device will also start to bother you a lot. So, you have installed a pre-heater on your car, a device that is not cheap anyway. Most likely, it was not installed for you for free - but that's not so bad.

The most important thing is that problems are revealed already with the onset of cold weather, when the hydronic is needed for normal driving. It is unlikely that you will discover the whims of the heater before, because you did not need it so much in terms of heat.

We do not think that problems will begin soon after installation: this equipment is produced by the German company "Eberspächer", and these guys are responsible for the fruits of their labor. But do not forget that the heater is a complex system, and the more intricate the design, the more of its components a breakdown may threaten.

Why Hydronic does not start and how to repair the device, the most reliable and fastest way will be determined by specialists. If you still have him under warranty, it is better to immediately go to them - amateur performance will instantly liquidate their obligations towards you.If the warranty has expired, you can try to find out where the trouble happened: some of them are available for elimination on their own.

If you decide to carry out the initial diagnostics on your own, and you do not have specialized equipment, take into account the most probable factors that prevent the heater from starting.

• Case one: you press a button and find a complete lack of response. Most likely, somewhere in the circuit, a contact is open, either due to oxidation of the terminal, or due to broken wiring;
• A weak reaction to the button is observed, but so insignificant that the heater is not able to provide ignition. Diagnosis: either the battery is hung up or is too low-power;
• Hydronic tries twice to start, but ignition fails. Most often this happens due to the lack of fuel supply;
• The heater seems to start, but it turns off almost immediately. The cooling system is airing, so that overheating and emergency cutting off of the unit occurs. This is very often observed after a long absence of machine operation (at least 2 weeks. See the article “We start the car after a long downtime”);
• The second most common reason is poor-quality antifreeze in the cooling circuit. Look into the distribution tank: if there is something jelly-like instead of liquid, the antifreeze needs to be changed;

It is well known that Hydronic heaters are among the leaders in the market for similar devices, successfully competing with Webasto and other manufacturers. At the same time, during the operation of a pre-heater of any company, the owner may be faced with the fact that the equipment begins to malfunction during operation.

Owners are faced with the fact that the Hydronic starts up every other time or the Hydronic heater smokes and does not start. Taking into account the fact that an autonomous pre-heater is a rather complex and expensive equipment, any such malfunctions of the unit become a cause for concern.

Any malfunctions associated with the fact that the Hydronic diesel or for gasoline installations does not start indicates a problem and the need for diagnostics to troubleshoot.

Next, we will talk about why Hydronic does not start or the Hydronic preheater starts up and stalls in a minute, and also why Hydronic does not start, writes error, etc.

To begin with, problems with the engine heater are usually identified with the onset of cold weather, since the device is usually not used in the warm season. Moreover, if Hydronic does not start in frost, then the heater simply cannot be further used for its intended purpose. In both commercial and civil passenger cars, this can lead to the inability to start a cold internal combustion engine.

In such a situation, the first step is to figure out whether the equipment is under warranty or the warranty period has already expired. If the heater is still under warranty, then the correct solution would be to abandon any attempts at diagnostics and self-troubleshooting. To solve the problem, you should deliver the car to specialists.

If the warranty for the Hydronic preheater has expired, then you can try to identify and fix the damage yourself. At the initial stage, superficial diagnostics are carried out, that is, such a check does not imply the use of special equipment. Let's move on to the possible reasons for the failure to start the heater.

The manufacturer recommends to carry out the routine cleaning of the heater at least once every 24 months. It is important to remember that in some cases (for example, frequent and prolonged operation of the device, poor fuel quality), the engine heater should be cleaned more often.

• Severe clogging of the exhaust pipe of the device also often leads to unsuccessful start-ups of the heater or malfunctions in its operation. In winter, it is impossible to exclude the ingress of snow, freezing of ice and other reasons that block the normal exit of gases from the heater.As in the case of cleaning the combustion chamber and other unscheduled work, these cases are not covered by the warranty.
• With the onset of cold weather, summer diesel fuel tends to freeze or wax in the power system and filters. In case of problems with the heater on diesel engines, make sure that the tank is filled with high-quality winter diesel fuel.

To check, you need to fill in a winter or arctic diesel, after which the power unit is started and warmed up. Then you can start Hydronic and let it run. This approach will flush paraffinized summer fuel from the system.

• It should be noted that an air lock, which can form in the cooling system due to problems with the valve in the radiator cap, leads to frequent failures. This element is called a breathing valve.

In the event that the degree of rarefaction is not reduced, gases that are in a dissolved state begin to escape from the coolant. The release of these gases leads to the appearance of plugs, and only then the plugs cause malfunctions and overheating of the autonomous heater.

In such a situation, to check, unscrew the radiator cap a little and put the vehicle in the parking lot. A subsequent successful start of the heater will indicate that the problem is with a valve in the cover. For normal operation of the heater, you will need to replace the cover.