Most modern housewives know about the benefits and effectiveness of Redmond multicooker firsthand. This multifunctional kitchen fixture has provided thousands of homes with wholesome, nutritious, hot and delicious food. Everyone who has used this device at least once has become convinced of its effectiveness. However, like all electrical appliances, it is susceptible to various breakdowns. First of all, malfunctions of the device are attributed to a factory defect. Nevertheless, it sometimes happens that the device breaks down during operation. It is then that most people think about repairing a multicooker with their own hands. It is possible to perform it at home, but for this you have to take into account several nuances.
In order to protect the Redmond multicooker from breakdowns and not think about how to fix it with your own hands, you must comply with the requirements prescribed in the device manual.
The first step is to highlight the sequence of stacking products before cooking. Remove the food bowl from the Redmond multicooker before placing it. Otherwise:
Most malfunctions occur due to contamination of the device contacts. This can result from the ingress of liquids or bulk solids into the interior of the device, such as:
This type of breakdown is the most harmless and it will be easy to repair the multicooker with your own hands. At the same time, it is worth remembering that until the end of the cleaning and assembly process of the structure, the device should in no case be connected to the network.
To clean the device with your own hands, it is important to study and follow the sequence of actions.
Observing the rules of disassembly, cleaning the device will not cause much trouble.
In some cases, Redmond multicooker may stop working, displaying a specific alphanumeric error code. The ability to decipher the code will allow you to understand the cause of the breakdown and start fixing it. Information for decryption is known to manufacturers, as well as craftsmen specializing in the repair of household appliances.
Certain errors displayed on the screen indicate serious malfunctions. Nevertheless, there is a list of codes explored by ordinary users through trial and error.
VIDEO
Thus, craftsmen managed to find out that the message "e0-e4" displayed on the screen signals faults associated with short circuits, as well as breaks of temperature sensors located above or below. Also, the problem may be related to thermal fuses. Various manufacturers set their own codes, therefore, for repairs on their own, you will need to remove the device case and use the capabilities of the multimeter to detect an open by measuring the level of contact resistance.
Another common reason that a multicooker may need to be repaired is a clogged thermostat responsible for heating. In most cases, it is located at the bottom of the device, next to the power board. To get to and repair the thermostat, you need to remove the bottom of the structure. Before cleaning, the copper contacts must be slightly unclenched, and then wiped with zero emery cloth or thick paper.The reason for such a breakdown may be the accumulation of moisture that has penetrated into the mechanism due to the liquid spilled past the bowl. Condensation is also possible.
A thermal cutout for a multicooker is one of the most important parts of it. It is a small piece of wire that is indistinguishable from a resistor. The conductivity index is 10-15 A, based on the type of element. The highest temperature is 150-170 degrees. Exceeding the permissible limits will lead to a blown fuse and an open circuit, which can be determined using a multimeter.
The most important part of the Redmond multicooker is at the center of the device. Most modern models are equipped with several thermal fuses covered with protective plastic insulation. To detect a blown fuse, it is necessary to dismantle the bottom cover of the device.
After removing the bowl, you can see the button: outwardly, the assembly resembles a steel mushroom, the lower part of which is covered with a spring. The circumferential surface is the heating element of the Redmond multicooker. Thermal fuses are located near the main unit.
In this case, the plastic insulation is visible. Some manufacturers secure them with clamps screwed to a screw, but in most cases, the fuses are simply dangling in the air.
Since the factory fastening of the fuses is carried out by crimping, the use of soldering is strictly prohibited, since a red-hot soldering iron can burn out the heat-sensitive fuse. To determine which particular element is defective, as well as whether at least one of them is working, use a multimeter to measure the resistance without removing the fuse. After detecting a malfunction, the fuse must be replaced.
Modern multicooker is equipped with two electronic boards:
The main board, responsible for heating, is located at the bottom of the device, while the control board is located in the heart of the device - inside the working cylinder.
A close inspection of the microcircuits reveals several signs of problems:
delamination of tracks;
violation of solder seams;
blackening of resistors;
swelling of capacitors;
formation of carbon deposits.
If one of the items on the list is found, it is worth repairing or replacing parts, restoring the soldering or tracks of the board using a zero skin and tinning the damaged places. Jumpers can be made from burnt-out resistors using their legs. To secure the soldering and tracks, it is recommended to use a varnish that protects the circuit from leaks and oxidation.
Here the monitor lights up, the clock is running, because the battery has already been replaced
It turned out that the battery, which is inside the device and even soldered to the power supply board, has run out. In order to change it, you need to disassemble the device, which we will now do, and at the same time delve into the giblets for a diagram of the internal device, the components used and their datasheets - suddenly there are interesting parts there and in general, in order to understand how to use the device correctly or what is broken there (and is it broken) if the multicooker starts behaving somehow wrong.
First of all, let's ask a sudden question: what the hell did they solder a battery inside (and not a battery with a charge controller)? Why didn't they make the battery replaceable from the outside?
The answer is this: there is a sticker on this multicooker that the warranty is 25 months and this sign is not without reason. The fact is that it also has a resource of 25 months, that is, after two years it is assumed that you will throw it away, and the extinguished screen will seem to hint at that.
Well, this is some kind of chaos: 100 bucks were paid for it. But this is in Russia, where everything is exorbitant. On Alibaba, such a multicooker costs up to 30 bucks (in the amount of 500 pieces; and the cost price, judging by the minimum price, is $ 15).
Here you simply wonder how cheap such a complex device is for the Chinese at cost (with a microcontroller, a monitor, an electric stove, a saucepan, a bunch of plastic and metal), and how many Russian hucksters put in their pockets for pressing the "buy" button on Alibaba, without inventing anything, not investing, not producing, ...
In addition to the razvodilov with a battery and the price of the device, there is another glitch: after the end of any program, the multicooker turns on endless heating (70 degrees). Because of this, it is dumb to cook yogurt in it: it languishes for 8 hours at a temperature of 40 ° C, and then, if you do not have time to turn it off, the yogurt begins to heat up to 70 ° C, while it needs to be cooled and put in the refrigerator. The clock also runs 10 minutes a month.
But let's get down to picking. Let's start with the fact that "few people know", but the multicooker Redmond M70, M4502, M45011 are identical externally and internally, the parts are interchangeable. So all of the following is true for any of them. So, we put the pig to the top with our paws and unscrew 6 screws:
Multicooker Redmond M70 or M4502 or M45011 [Enlarge]
"Button" on the bottom of the tank, inside which there is a temperature sensor and a thermal fuse.
Two blue wires going into the cover. There, in the lid, they feed the cord-heating element.
The main disk heating element with a power of 860 watts.
Two black wires going into the cover, where a thermal sensor is connected to them.
Cord-heating element around the tank.
Batteries 2xAA, supplied here instead of a dead CR2450.
Where the CR2450 was soldered.
Power supply board (PSU).
Microcontroller and monitor board with control buttons.
Button cell battery CR2450 (diameter 24 mm, thickness 5 mm, lithium, 3 Volts) in the place indicated by the arrow 7.
First, it was soldered to the sticks by contact welding, then the sticks were soldered into the board, and in order to make it as difficult as possible to replace it, the manufacturers filled this place even before the heap and with rather strong glue. In order not to fiddle with glue and not unscrew the power supply board, we tear off the petals of the contacts with a knife (or a chisel, pasatizh), to which a battery is welded by contact-spot welding and hang it on a hook (there is one for wires, position 6. ) a block of two soldered AA batteries (fastened to each other with a clamp), which we solder with wires to the petals sticking out of the board, observing the polarity (+ is drawn on the board by a specialist).
Now, for the sake of interest, we will study the rest of the multicooker components.
1. The “button” on the bottom of the tank turned out to be not at all an on / off button, as it seems (so that the multicooker would turn on only with a pan installed inside the tank), but simply a block tightly pressed against the pan with a thermal sensor and thermal fuse inside.
Block with thermal sensor and thermal fuse
The red wire here is mains, from 220 volts, first it passes from the socket through a thermal fuse in this button (a thermal fuse at 165 ° C 10A, when it burns it breaks the power supply from the mains), then it connects to one of the terminals of the disk heating element and only then leaves to the power supply board. Yellow thin wires - temperature sensor (it is an NTC thermistor with a resistance of 50 KΩ at 25 ° C).
2. and 4. Wires leading into the cover:
On the left there are 2 black wires and a yellow one, on the right 2 blue ones
The yellow wire on the left is ground. The black wires on the left are the temperature sensor in the lid (there in the lid it is glued to the lower aluminum part of the lid using adhesive aluminum foil):
Temperature sensor from the cover
(here the wires are randomly blue, because this sensor is from the M70 model, and the previous photo is M45011)
This thermal sensor, exactly the same as in the "button" on the bottom, is an NTC thermistor (the resistance of which is the lower, the higher its temperature) in a glass shell. The resistance of this resistor at 25 ° C is 50 KΩ.
The blue wires on the right feed the TEN (tubular electric heater) cord in the lid, which has also been glued to the lower aluminum part of the lid with adhesive aluminum foil:
Cord-heating element from the cover. Resistance 2.8K (17 W, considering that it is powered from 220 volts). It is connected to a 220V network through a BT131 triac.
5. The cord-heating element around the tank looks exactly the same as in the photo above. Also glued with foil. But its resistance is 1240 ohms, respectively, the power is 40 watts. It is connected to the network via a BT134 triac.
3. The main disk heating element with a hole in the center:
Power 860 W, resistance 54 Ohm, connected to the network by means of an electromagnetic relay. Therefore, during the operation of the multicooker, "something" (namely the relay) clicks all the time.
8. Power supply board M45011:
The voltage conversion is based on an eight-legged THX203H microcircuit (PWM controller, PWM controller, switching power supply regulator). In the ACN and ACL diagram - 220 volt power supply. HEAT - to the terminal of the main 860-watt heating element. The cable-heating element in the lid is connected to CN2, and the cable-heating element around the tank is connected to CN4. Connectors on the bottom left - temperature sensors from the cover (TOP) and from the bottom (BAT) of the tank.
9. There is a controller (control) board under the power supply board:
On one side of this board, there is a monitor, buttons, and a buzzer. On the other side:
The rhombic microcircuit in the center is the Samsung 3F9488XZZ microcontroller (8-bit CMOS Microcontroller F9488, 8K-byte multi time programmable ROM embedded).
The multicooker prepares food automatically thanks to a computer program. It can be fried, baked, stewed, boiled, steamed and deep-fried. This is a fairly reliable device that can last for decades without breakdowns. Multi-cooker malfunctions are rare, in addition, in many cases, the device can be repaired by hand.
Before you fix your home multicooker, you need to understand its structure. The design includes:
Outer casing (usually plastic or aluminum). All other structural elements are connected to it.
Above is a cover with a valve for steam release. The tightness of the connection is ensured by a rubber rim and a locking mechanism.
A control panel is installed outside. It often has a display on it. The buttons can be touch-sensitive or ordinary.
The microprocessor is under control. It is he who is responsible for turning the heating element on and off. Its work is regulated by the control panel.
Inside the case there is an electric heating element, usually one at the bottom, but there may be several. It is mounted in a case, capable of heating up to 40-180 ° C.
Directly above it is a metal or ceramic bowl. It has a non-stick coating. It comes with a sieve with large holes - this is a plastic insert for steam cooking.
In addition, a temperature and pressure sensor is included in the design. It is installed between the bowl and the body, usually at the bottom of the structure.
The bowl sits directly on a heating element that creates temperature from an electric current. Multicooker makes little noise during operation. At the same time, due to the tightness, an increased pressure is created inside, which can be regulated using a special valve for steam. There is a plastic sieve above the bowl, on which it is permissible to stew meat and vegetables. The temperature can not only be selected, but also set up to automatically change during the cooking process.
The most common operating principle is heating the bowl from an electromagnetic coil. This method has a high efficiency, and the design itself is reliable. A more modern heating system consists in the fact that it is not the heating element that heats up, but the multicooker bowl itself. This happens under the influence of electromagnetic waves. Because of this, the multicooker bowl looks more massive to keep warm better.
It is better to protect the structure from damage, so you should know the common causes of malfunctions. The most rare problem is a manufacturing defect, but still defective products are sometimes encountered. The most common mistake is putting food in the bowl when it is in the multicooker. In this case, there is always the possibility that grease, moisture or food pieces will get into the interior of the cabinet.
Before going to the service center, try to fix the work yourself:
The root of all troubles is non-observance of operating rules, so read the instructions for use carefully.
Of course, the product must not be hit, dropped, or misused. Do not put the multicooker near a battery or gas stove. This can lead to overheating of the case during operation, which sometimes deteriorates the internal electrical components. Also, the device often does not work due to the connection of the multicooker to the high-voltage network.
Usually, if the multicooker suddenly breaks down or refuses to turn on, a code appears on the display that signals the cause of the failure. Typically, the cipher begins with the letter E and a number from 0 to 5 after it. The code indicates the possible cause of the malfunction, so further repair actions depend on this index.
The following message options are possible:
E1. It means the heating element burns out, this happens when moisture, fat, food particles get inside. We'll have to disassemble the structure, clean it and dry it.
E2. On Polaris models, this means a short circuit of the upper temperature sensor, which is mounted under the cover. In addition, such a combination can report an open circuit, so you need to check the wire that goes from the display to the sensor. To assess its condition, you must use an ohmmeter.
E3. First of all, you need to check the tightness of the cover. It is also possible that the cause of the malfunction lies in the dirty inner surface of the case. It is necessary to disassemble the product, clean it and dry it.
E4. The pressure sensor has broken. Most likely, the problem is that it is clogged, but an open circuit is also possible. In addition, this error occurs when there is a malfunction in the microprocessor. This is the worst breakdown code, since virtually the entire product will have to be checked.
E5. The index is displayed when the overheating protection system is activated. Perhaps you just put the appliance next to a battery or a gas stove that is on. But also the problem can be hidden in the clogged steam valves. If the appliance smells of smoke, then you probably burned the wiring.
In the following cases, repairing a multicooker at home with your own hands is unacceptable. You need to carry it to a specialized workshop:
no reaction to actions;
no temperature information;
the display shows another error code;
there is visible damage to the cable or housing;
programming does not work;
the multicooker does not heat;
there is no tightness of the lid.
If E1 or E2 messages are found, you need to do the following:
Examine the surface under the bowl. If there are drops of moisture or food crumbs, clean and dry the product.
If everything is clean inside, then you need to turn the multicooker over and unscrew the mount that holds the bottom cover. In this way, you can disassemble the structure. Inspect all the insides, if there is dirt or moisture, then remove it.
If everything is clean inside, then you need to find a thermocouple - this is a tubular sensor with a wire connected. For cleaning, you will need double-rolled fine-grain sandpaper (# 0). To disconnect the contacts, press on the top plate from the side of the adjusting screw so that you hear a click. After that, you need to shove in the emery and release the plate (let the contacts snap back). Then you need to carefully clean the terminals.
The easiest way is with the E3 error. To fix the problem, turn the Vitek multicooker over and unscrew the fastener that holds the bottom cover. Then you need to get all the insides, clean them and dry them. For quick drying, you can use a hairdryer, but set to a low intensity. Then assemble the structure.
The hardest part will be with the E4 error. To fix it, you will need to check all temperature and pressure sensors, inspect surfaces for dirt and moisture. Gentle sanding will be required. If you have some experience, you can try to do everything yourself, but it is better to take the device to a service center.
With error E5, overheating occurred in the Mulinex multicooker.If a problem is detected, you must immediately press the "stop" (turn off) button, and also unplug the power cord from the network. Then you should open the lid and let the multicooker cool down, you need to wait at least 20 minutes. In the end, it will be useful to assess the condition of the internal surfaces for contamination.
The thermal fuse in the multicooker serves as a protection against overheating. It looks like a small wire that looks a lot like a resistor. Most of them have a conductivity of 10 to 15 A and operate at temperatures of 150-170 o C. When these values are exceeded, the thermal fuse burns out, which initiates a break in the electrical circuit. As a result, the device stops working, but the owner avoids a fire in the apartment. You can establish that an open circuit has occurred using a multimeter.
Most multicooker has several thermal fuses that are covered with plastic to keep out moisture. All of them are located inside the case, therefore, to search for a burnt-out element, you will need to disassemble the device. To do this, turn the multicooker over, find the mount from below that holds the bottom cover, and unscrew it.
After the device is disassembled, you can see several wires inside, you need to find the one that goes from the power socket to the terminal of the heating element. The wire will go through a thermal fuse, which is located in the thermal insulation plastic tube.
In most cases, loose thermal fuses are simply dangling, but sometimes they are secured with clamps that are attached to a screw. Please note that fuses are very sensitive to heating, therefore soldering is prohibited.
In addition, manufacturers fix them by crimping, so the thermal fuses cannot be removed. Therefore, to find out the state of each element, it is necessary, without removing them, to use a multimeter to determine the resistance level. When the condition of each fuse is determined, the defective parts must be replaced.
Consider replacing one thermal fuse using a live example. There is a multicooker, which does not turn on the display, initially we do not know what the problem is.
Let's disassemble the device. To do this, unscrew one screw from the bottom and open the bottom cover. You can see that the design of the multicooker is extremely simple. Its insides can be roughly divided into 3 parts:
The power plant is a power supply unit and a relay, a switching heating element.
Control board with display (which does not work).
A heating element.
Consider the power section of the multicooker and its wires:
The white wire from the network connector goes to the power supply.
The red wire runs from the mains connector through the thermal fuse to the terminal of the heating element.
The black wire goes from the terminal of the heating element to the power supply.
The red wire goes from the second terminal of the heating element to the power supply to the switching relay.
Yellow - a common ground wire that connects the metal structures of the multicooker (outer and inner casing).
The white wire goes to the control board from the switching relay.
The figure shows the wires by number
First you need to find out if electricity is reaching the power supply. To do this, you need to connect the multicooker to the network and first measure the voltage at the terminals of the network connector itself.
Next, we check the voltage between the connector terminal and the heating element terminal. We see that the electricity does not reach the heating element through the red wire.
The red wire goes through the thermal fuse, most likely the problem is with it. Let's take it off. To do this, you need to unscrew the screw from the metal plate, with which the thermal fuse is attached to the multicooker body.
model - RY184;
temperature - 184 ° C;
current strength - 10 A;
voltage - 250 volts.
Thermal fuse close up
Disconnect the thermal fuse with wire cutters. We order a new element with similar characteristics.
The thermal fuse cannot be soldered to the wires, so you need to make sleeves for crimping.They can be made from a heatsink for a transistor. The resulting two plates must be cleaned with sandpaper. And then bend them into open tubes.
The sleeves that came out of the radiator
With the help of sleeves, we attach the thermal fuse to the wire by pressing with pliers.
The fuse is fixed to the inner casing with a metal plate in which it is wrapped. It must be screwed into place with a screw. Then you can check the voltage at the terminals.
When we are convinced that everything worked out, we plug the multicooker into the outlet and see the result.
In modern multicooker there are 2 microcircuits. The first is located in the very center of the device inside the working cylinder and is responsible for temperature control. The second is located at the bottom of the multicooker and is a power electronic board.
If you carefully examine the microcircuit, you can find some types of faults with the naked eye:
swelling of capacitors;
damage to solder seams;
formation of carbon deposits;
detachment of tracks;
darkening resistors.
Video (click to play).
The best repair option would be to completely replace the electronic board. However, you can fix the solder or chip path with # 0 grit sandpaper and tinning the broken areas. The jumpers are recreated from the legs of the burnt resistors. It is advisable to use varnish to fix the soldering and tracks, since it protects the board from leaks and oxidation.
