VIDEO
As you can see, shoe repair is not an easy business, but real. Good luck to you!
Historians claim that the first footwear appeared in Eurasia more than 30 thousand years ago. Shoes were made from animal skins, woven from plant leaves. Since then, the technology of making shoes has stepped forward, often artificial materials are used for its manufacture, which are not inferior to, and even surpass in wear resistance, leather.
But even the best quality shoes wear out heels over time, especially in women's boots and stiletto heels. Usually, not the entire surface of the heels is worn out, but only the back part. Therefore, it must be ensured that wear does not touch the base of the heel. If the base is worn out, it will have to be ground down to flatten the entire supporting surface, and this is unnecessary work and a decrease in the height of the heel.
Factory heels, as a rule, are made of plastic and they are fixed on the base of the heel of shoes with glue and pins inserted with an interference fit into the holes provided for them in the heel.
In order to change worn out heels, you must first remove the factory heels from them. The line of contact of the heels with the base of the heel is usually clearly visible. There is a light streak in the photo above.
To remove a worn-out heel, you need to put the shoes on one side on a hard surface and press with a boot knife, swinging it in the plane of the blade, to the place of the border of the base of the heel and the heel. You can use a simple knife or even a flat-blade screwdriver. In this case, it is better to remove the heel from the side of the sole so that possible small damages to the heel are not visible from the outside.
The heel was torn off the base of the heel of the shoes, and now it is not difficult to remove it. The heel is removed from the second shoe in the same way.
The photo shows a view of the removed factory-made heel from the side of the installation on the base of the heel of the shoes. Some factories provide extra heels for shoes. Check if there are spare heels in the box of these shoes. Then all repairs for replacing heels will be reduced to smearing the factory heels with glue, for example, "Moment" and installing it on the heel of shoes.
If there are no sapas heels, then you can search in stores. Finished heels are plastic and metal. The photo shows a metal powder heel for shoes with stiletto heels.
After removing the heels, the heel of shoes of approximately the same type as in the photo will open in front of you. There can be two, three or even four holes for pins for factory heels, depending on the area of the heel. But the repair technology is the same for all cases.
The best material for new heels is 5-6 mm polyurethane sheet with medium elasticity. It can be purchased at the ruins from the junk merchants. When choosing, you need to check the rigidity of the polyurethane. With strong pressure with your fingernail, it should bend slightly.
If there is no polyurethane, then rubber from car tires will work well. It also has high abrasion resistance. But getting a piece of flat rubber out of a round tire will take some tinkering.
To make a heel, it is necessary to apply its contour to a polyurethane or rubber plate. To do this, you need to attach the heel of the shoe to the workpiece and circle it around the perimeter with a marker or ballpoint pen.
The shape of the heels for the right and left shoes, as a rule, is different and this must not be forgotten when cutting out the workpiece. You can also circle the removed worn heel with a handle, but I prefer to circle the heel.
After applying the markings, the heels must be cut out. You can cut polyurethane with a sharp knife, wetting its blade, to improve glide, in water. But polyurethane is very difficult to cut with a knife, and I prefer to cut it with a jigsaw with a file on wood. Polyurethane is easy to saw with a jigsaw.
For cutting, the marked plate is clamped in a vice.As soon as a few millimeters have been cut, the plate is pulled by hand so that the jigsaw file is not clamped. Then the heel can be cut out pretty quickly. You need to cut along the outside of the line so that there is a margin. The protruding part of the heel due to the level of the heel of the shoes can then be grinded off on an emery column or cut off with a knife.
New heels are ready and you can start installing them on the heels of your shoes. But before that, the heels themselves must be prepared for the installation of heels.
Probably, looking at the photo above, you noticed the appearance of the heels after removing the heels. The plane is almost all in the holes and the question arises, how can we fix the new heels?
The answer is simple, you need to install wooden plugs in the holes for attaching standard plastic heels. The pin holes are usually 5 mm in diameter and 10-15 mm deep. The depth is measured first. If it is less than 10 mm, then it is necessary to drill the base of the heel to a depth of 15-20 mm with the help of a reduced.
If you drill with an electric drill, then you need to take into account that the drill can "pull" the soft material of the heel and the depth of the hole will turn out to be greater than necessary. I usually perform this operation manually, holding the drill in a special handle.
Plugs in heels for installing heels can be made from any piece of wood by sawing off the desired piece along the length and pricking it with a chock knife of the required diameter. You can also use ready-made, for example, wooden Japanese chopsticks that fit well in diameter.
It is enough to cut them into pieces of the required length. If the stick is too thick, then peel it off a little with a knife. Once the corks have been made, they can be hammered into the holes in the heels. The diameter of the plugs should ensure their tight fit, but you should not make plugs with a diameter much larger than the holes in the heel, since the heel can crack when plugging the plugs. The plugs should not protrude beyond the level of the heel surface, it is better to let them be slightly recessed.
The heels are ready for installation, wooden plugs are driven into the heels, and it's time to install the heels on the shoes.
To securely fasten the heel heels, I use a combined fastening, gluing, followed by nailing with lingering shoe nails, which experts call the Tex type TP. Shoe nails differ from ordinary nails in that they have flat edges, a diameter of 1-2 mm and a length of about 15 mm. The head of the boot nails is also of a special shape, small in diameter, but thick. Flat edges on the nail shank prevent it from spinning when walking, and the shape of the head acts as a heel area and increases its service life.
If there are no shoe nails, then you can use simple finishing nails to fix the heels, shortening them and giving the rod the shape of a shoe, grinding it off with a file or on an emery column. Finishing studs are commonly used to attach door trims.
To accurately hit the nails in the plugs hammered into the heels, it is advisable to first mark the driving points on them before gluing the heels. For this, the heel is applied to the heel, the polyurethane is slightly transparent and the corks are visible. It is enough just to put dots with a marker in the places where the traffic jams are visible.
If the plugs do not show through, if the heels are made of rubber, then you can attach the heel to the heel, shift it towards yourself and make one risk at the level of the plugs, then move the heel to the side and apply a second line. You will get a cross into which you will need to hammer a carnation. Since the diameter of the plug is 5 mm, this method will provide sufficient accuracy.
You can nail the heel with nails by attaching the heel directly to the heel, but this is inconvenient, since the heel can move and set inaccurately. Therefore, I prefer to first hammer all the nails into the heels so that the sharp ends appear on the opposite side of the heels.You need to hammer the carnations by placing the heel on the board so that the sharp ends of the nails do not flatten and become blunt.
For more reliable fastening of the heel, before nailing, the mating surfaces of the heel and heel are abundantly lubricated with waterproof Moment glue. After exposure to the recommended rules of use for 5 minutes, the heel is applied to the heel and pressed firmly.
There are special paws for repairing shoes with nails. But I get by with a large file with a wooden handle. I rest the file on a massive piece of iron, and the heel of my shoe rests on the handle.
As you can see in the photo above, the studs are hammered in, the heel is firmly installed on the heel, but the edges of the heel protrude somewhat beyond the contour of the heel. The protruding part of the heel must be removed by cutting off with a knife or on an emery column.
Shoes, with new heels installed with their own hands, look no worse than new ones. If desired, the heels on the front side can be painted with a waterproof marker or paint.
If, when buying women's shoes, you find a spare set of heels in the box, then the first repair by changing worn out heels will not be difficult. It is enough to remove the old ones and grease the surface of the heel with glue and hammer the pins of the new heel into the heel with a hammer.
But sometimes the difficulty arises that when removing worn heels, one of the pins breaks off and remains in the heel. It is impossible to remove the pin with pliers, as there is nothing to grab onto. The pins can be drilled with a drill, having previously sunk them into the heel. But in this case, the walls of the hole will most likely be worn away, and the new heels will not hold securely.
To remove the pin from the heel of shoes without damaging the walls of the holes, you must first drill a hole with a diameter of 2.5 mm in the center of the pin. If a self-tapping screw with a diameter of 3 mm is available, then you can screw it into the drilled hole and remove the pin. It would seem that instead of drilling a hole in the pin, you can immediately screw a small diameter self-tapping screw into it, and take it with pliers to remove the pin. But in this case, the self-tapping screw will distribute the pin to the sides, and it will hold on even more tightly in the heel and it will be impossible to remove the pin.
If there is no self-tapping screw with an outer diameter of 3 mm, but there is an M3 tap, then a thread must be cut with it in the drilled hole.
Next, a screw with an M3 thread with a length of at least 15 mm is screwed into the pin so that it passes through the entire length of the pin, and the head of the screw with a part of the thread remains protruding.
Now you can substitute an emphasis on the heel, for example, the shaft of a screwdriver, grasping the head of the screw with side cutters, and easily remove the stuck pin from the heel.
The pin has been safely removed from the heel of the shoes without damaging the holes, and now you can start installing spare heels.
It is not necessary to lubricate the pins of the heels with glue and the surface of their adhesion to the heel of the shoes, but for the reliability of fixing the heels and excluding the ingress of dirt and water into the gap, the glue will not be superfluous. Moment waterproof glue is well suited for this purpose.
After covering with a layer of glue, the heel is inserted with pins into the holes of the heel and, even without support, is hammered with a hammer. The protruding glue residues are smeared along the joint with your finger.
Spare heels have been installed on the women's shoes and now they look like new. The heels are enough to wear the shoes without repair for another summer season.
Not to say that I am a stingy man, but I am sorry to throw out the old thing and buy a new one, if the old one can still be worn out by fixing it a little. And with shoes, respectively, the same situation. My shoes wear out very quickly, the heels are mostly erased.
I scored at first, but no one sees inside. Then it became uncomfortable to wear.
It's a pity to throw it away, it looks like new (well, almost), but worn from the inside.
I decided to try to repair it myself, if I spoiled it, it would not be too bad.
- How to replace the worn fabric, I chose leatherette.
- Foam rubber (I also rubbed it to the base) It turns out 2 types, thin ((1-1.5 mm) is optional) for the spacer and thick 8-10mm for replacing the backdrop.
- Threads (preferably in the color of the product) with a needle.
- Scissors or a utility knife.
- Glue. I used glue for foam rubber, VB - 103, red, it costs about 250 rubles per liter, dries quickly enough, holds tight.
First, let's shred everything into pieces.
Foam rubber and a rag that has seen life.
We will prepare what, in fact, we will change them.
Cut out leatherette to size.
And foam rubber. I took a tighter, secondary, it seems called.
I glued thin foam rubber to leatherette, but this is not important, you can do without it. I also sewed threads on the sides, because they will not be covered.
We begin to sew the whole thing into place. Leatherette is less elastic than fabric, if you just start sewing in a circle, the joints will not converge (how else to call it?) Therefore, we will align the piece and attach it in several places with threads so that it does not go to distortion.
We are stitching. Sometimes it's hard, use a thimble or pliers as a last resort. If there was a sewing machine, it would be easier. But she's not there. My grandmother, her health, taught her how to use it. Probably wanted a granddaughter =)
We asked for it, we turn it out, we look at what a fucking fellow we are. But this is only half the battle.
We glue the foam rubber. First, you need to glue it with its end to the top of the backdrop and then lower it down and glue it. This will create a slight bevel and bulge to secure the heel. Something like that:
But this is also not necessary, you can simply glue it, the heel itself will take shape as you walk. But this is better.
Next, we glue the leatherette to the base, pulling it a little. Don't overdo it with glue.
And we sew where there were factory seams.
This is how it was and how it became. It took a whole evening for one sneaker and fingers worn out from the needle.
Thank you for your attention! I hope it will be useful to someone.
Especially for Pikabu and my followers, neighbor hater and aspiring Stasique renovator.
With all the abundance of repair shops, some consumers still prefer to repair their shoes on their own. This is due to distrust in the work of some craftsmen, with the high cost of the services of others. It seems that when a shoe has served for several years, it will be cheaper to throw it away and buy a new one than to repair it. However, the materials are usually inexpensive, and craftsmen can do shoe repairs with their own hands and bring the pair back to its original form.
Someone generally follows the path of least resistance and prepares the grasping mixture on their own. So for repairing shoes, acetone with nylon fabric is useful - after degreasing, this product begins to have excellent adhesive properties. If a person works in any kind of production, he can use rubber glue, but a very high temperature is required to start the reaction, as in manufactories it is activated only in special stoves.
The most common superglue can also help, but in this case, the shoes being repaired must be dry and clean. The substance itself is carefully applied to one side, heated with an industrial hair dryer or stove on the other, and the boot is carefully glued. True, molecular glue is not used everywhere in workshops, because it is not at all elastic, although it sticks tightly and quickly. If something is not done correctly, it will be too problematic to tear off part of the leather or sole to re-glue the boot.
A special adhesive solution for shoes will greatly simplify the task. Usually, Shoe repair in the workshop they are performed using dismakol and nairit. There are different variations of these compounds with different additives, depending on which the cost of the product changes. Rapid is also often used, but this glue, as a rule, is sold only in bulk, therefore, it is not at all suitable for a single DIY repair.
Installing heels on a wide heel with your own hands is a little easier. Plastic heels can also be glued with super glue by preheating the material well. The hot polyurethane will instantly “grab” the substrate and eliminate the need to hammer in nails the old fashioned way. A special shoe glue is applied to leather, wooden heels - nairit, always on both sides! After waiting for a while, it is necessary to firmly press the planes to each other and fix.
Repair of shoe soles in a workshop implies the presence of the necessary tool, however, in some cases, you can do with improvised means. A prerequisite for a competent shoe repair is the activation of an already dried glue crust about ten to twenty minutes after application. The parts to be glued are heated with a hairdryer or held over an electric stove, after which they are tightly connected to each other. When repairing the sole with your own hands, you still have to use a professional solution - nairite, which is suitable for combining leather, suede fabrics with the sole of shoes. The moment that housewives like to use in such cases will not work. Our workshop is often contacted after an unsuccessful attempt to use the glue-moment, which of course does not help to glue the sole. It has to be removed with a solvent, the surface must be degreased, which takes additional time and money.
LET'S REPEAT BASIC RULES:
With “Super” glue you can connect only fixed areas (for example, heels);
The shoe mortar must be applied to both surfaces to be glued, after which it dries for 15 minutes;
It is necessary to use an industrial hair dryer or a stove for strong heating of the material when installing heels;
It is necessary to firmly press the parts to be glued and fix it firmly within a minute.
In this tutorial, I will show you how to repair cracked leather on a shoe near the sole.
I'll tell you the subtleties of the work. How to patch without being noticeable.
VIDEO
VIDEO
The glue will not hold the sole moment, it can only glue leather and rubber. "Moment" glue does not adhere synthetic materials.
Soon there will be a master class on heels and preventive measures, I will show and teach you how to do it!
Thank you for your answer, but you can add a photo of a bottle of glue wherever it comes across.so I think so, why pay someone money for something that you can do yourself. Moreover, there are cases where you cannot go to a workshop (for example, in the village), and thanks to your master class, you can repair it yourself
The glue is called "Dismakol". It is sold in a shoe store for shoemakers. There are shops that sell shoe repair materials. Such shops should be in all cities. The bottle may not be there. For example, I buy on tap.
Thank you very much! We, women on heels, really need MK. Will wait. And this one, with your permission, I am dragging to my bins.
Or can you tell me how you can remove a cut on a leather jacket, otherwise we don't even have a sensible atelier?
Where is the cut? Take a picture and show, please.
Sorry to wedge myself into this conversation. My sister came to visit, and they cut her cloak on the bus, apparently they wanted to steal the money. So we racked our brains with her how to glue it so that it was not noticeable and came up with it, she wore it for a long time. First, we connected the incision and sealed it on top with ordinary transparent tape to fix this cut. Then, on the reverse side of the skin, at the place of the cut, they glued a pharmacy scotch tape on a rag basis, our Soviet one (it sticks tightly). Again, turn the skin on the face, remove the transparent tape, and grease the place between the two skin incisions with glue over the skin and press the sections together. When dry, you can walk a little with shoe polish in color, the cut is not visible. After that, I help to reanimate all leather clothes for myself, for children, and friends. Of course, experts do not do this, but as an option I really like this method. Once again, I'm sorry for getting in, but I think it might come in handy if I could explain it clearly.
Thanks, I will take note of your method :)
Well Shumaher, you just give out all the secrets of shoemaking) You literally take bread from the masters!
If everyone learns how to make shoes at home, then why are shoe repairmen needed?
I am not greedy! Whoever was lazy before will not do anything himself after my lessons!
You can take away the bread from a real master!
Cool, just super, thank you very much for the detailed MK, just the boots broke in the same way, you can't put it on, but it's a pity to throw it away
Hooray! My favorite, comfortable boots - to live !, probably
such an MK is affordable! Thanks!
just tell me what kind of glue you can use?
Many thanks for such an understandable (even to blondes, far from shoemaking) MK! Can you tell me how to paint the tattered plastic heels of the boots and shoes, it’s a pity to throw away expensive boots .. but I don’t want to wear the tattered ones either ..
You were just in time, Monday or Tuesday, I was going to release an MK on heel painting, so wait a bit!
Thank you very much, because this is a "sore subject" - how many excellent boots are sent to the trash just because of the peeled heels, and for some reason in the workshops they do not always undertake to paint .. I will look forward to it!
Thank you so much for such an understandable MK! You are a true master of your craft.
Thanks! Everything is very clear step by step, concise and intelligible! Without unnecessary unnecessary phrases, everything is just to the point. And the shot is very clear and you can see what and how.
Thank you. Excellent! And don't worry about the "bread" - I wanted to repair it myself, but now, having looked carefully, I realized that I could just ruin my boot, it’s better to the master, but we don’t have it. We'll have to ask someone to take them to the nearest settlement with a master, a knife and glue. Thanks for saving my boot!
Video (click to play).
Hello! There was such a problem: a perforated leather ballerina was torn at the sole. Can it somehow be repaired, or is it over? Mk on the Internet on patches for perforated shoes I can not find
