Do-it-yourself mvp repair

In detail: do-it-yourself mvp repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

At one point, for no reason, the microwave stops heating food. It would seem that everything works: the plate rotates, the backlight is on, even the grill is normal. And the microwave does not work, just as you do not switch modes. Moreover, such a situation is even possible when the device, after standing alone for a week, again begins to warm up regularly, but not for long. Before deciding to make a do-it-yourself microwave repair, read tips about possible causes and ways to eliminate them, as well as when it is still better to use the services of specialized workshops.

The most common reason that the microwave stops heating is the failure of the magnetron. Next on the list are a capacitor, a transformer, and a high-voltage fuse. But before you start digging into the insides of technology, it is not superfluous to check other, simpler reasons. So the MVP may not heat well or not at all if:

voltage less than 200 volts - the power of microwave radiation decreases;
something is broken in the control circuit - in the timer or control unit;
faults in power circuits, which include: high-voltage transformer, fuse, diode, as well as magnetron and capacitor;
the inverter in the inverter microwave is out of order.

Not only does it not heat, it also makes a buzzing or humming noise. In this case, there are three most likely reasons:

the high-voltage diode is out of order.

This electronic part passes current in only one direction, blocking its passage in the opposite direction. If the diode breaks down, the stove stops heating, but begins to hum.

Video (click to play).

A capacitor stores an electric field. Failure to do so can lead to the generation of microwaves, which manifests itself in a characteristic hum or hum.

A defective magnetron can also cause the microwave oven not to heat up, and you hear a hum or buzz.

ATTENTION: when deciding to search for why the device does not heat, as well as to repair the microwave with your own hands, keep in mind that the microwave is a dangerous household appliance. The danger of electric shock of high (up to 5000 V) voltage persists even if the equipment is disconnected from the mains. If you have the slightest doubt about your knowledge and skills in the field of electronics, it is better to contact a specialist, even for minor repairs or diagnostics. do not risk your health and life, the oven is not worth it.

Arm yourself with instructions, where there is a detailed diagram of the microwave oven device.

Find and check the high-voltage fuse. If it burns out, along the way we look at the elements of the multiplier (doubler - capacitor and diode). Checking the capacitor for charge-discharge is carried out with an ohmmeter (tester. If there are two batteries in the tester, the arrow will deviate noticeably, if one, then barely noticeable, be extremely careful to notice). The arrow deviated and went to - the capacitor is operational; if the ohmmeter needle fixes some resistance, then the capacitor is broken. An arrow that does not deviate anywhere also indicates that the part is out of order. It is possible to determine that the capacitor is the cause of the inoperative MVP by replacing the defective one with a new one. Remember to discharge the high voltage capacitor before checking or replacing! If the oven is working, then great. But no, let's move on.

The diode cannot be checked practically at home, so we will replace it with a new one that is definitely working.

If the capacitor and diode are working properly, then we check the magnetron. If the leads and the bushing capacitor ring with the magnetron body, then the capacitor (bushing) is broken, you can see a crack on the side and carbon deposits.

Most often it fails if:

the oven works without food inside the chamber - the microwave sparks, which leads to damage to the part;
there is a metal object inside the chamber and the oven was put into operation;
the magnetron is simply worn out.

Repairing a manual transmission is a rather complicated procedure. Although twenty years ago, many car owners repaired manual transmissions on their own in garages, now this procedure has become much more complicated, since technological progress has stepped forward and the manual transmission device has changed a lot.

Before you start repairing, you need to identify the malfunctions of the manual transmission, and only a thorough diagnosis of the manual transmission can help in this matter. After its completion, it will be clear whether it is worth repairing the box or whether it will be cheaper to purchase a new one. It should be remembered that even if the cost of spare parts is 50 percent of the cost of a new box, repairs at a service station will easily “eat up” the remaining amount.

In order to identify manual transmission malfunctions, you need to conduct a thorough diagnosis of this unit. After all, starting the repair of the manual transmission, focusing only on your guesses and assumptions, you can waste time and money, changing one after the other the serviceable parts of the manual transmission.

Since the devices of any manual transmission are approximately the same (domestic cars and foreign cars), diagnostics are carried out according to the same algorithm. If your car is equipped with an on-board computer, then most of the errors associated with the operation of the manual transmission can be deciphered. It also happens that errors do not indicate a specific malfunction, but only indicate a general breakdown.

Breakdowns of manual transmissions can be different, but they can be divided into several varieties:

Often, a simple flushing with oil helps to avoid problems with the manual transmission. There is no need to dismantle the box during this procedure. It is enough to drain the old oil and fill in the new one. After this procedure, you should start the car and drive at a calm pace. This procedure will help the new oil to penetrate into all parts of the gearbox. Sometimes it is necessary to rinse several times, as there can be a lot of dirt inside the box.

Now the stores sell special reducing additives for oil in manual transmissions. Do not abuse them, as their action at the checkpoint is not always predictable. It is better to pour in the additive for a while, and then drain it along with the oil.

When the manual gearbox starts to screw up, and the gears do not change or are knocked out on the go, you should urgently repair it. Driving a faulty car with a breakdown is not only unpleasant, but also unsafe. You can entrust the repair of the gearbox to professionals at the service station, but not all service stations are engaged in such work. In addition, the owner is often not allowed into the repair area, and unscrupulous mechanics can replace only one worn out gear, saying that they have overhauled the entire box.

For those who know well the device of the car and have a garage with a set of tools, it makes sense to repair the manual transmission on their own. This will save you a ton of money and help eliminate the jittery riding style. For this procedure, you will need an assistant, since the weight of the gearbox is quite impressive.

Before directly dismantling the gearbox, make sure that all cables, rails and levers are connected and move without jamming. It may also be that your vehicle jerked due to poor connection of the elements. In this case, it will be enough to connect or develop them.

The steps for removing the manual transmission are as follows:

Before starting work, it is necessary to install wheel chocks and disconnect the terminals from the battery;

Inspect the checkpoint for removal. Determine where to start dismantling;

Drain the oil completely from the manual transmission. The oil must be drained into a special container;

Disconnect all components that may interfere with the removal of the box;

Place the engine and gearbox on supports so that they do not fall to the ground during removal. Falling from a height can severely damage the box and further repairs after that will become impractical;

In a car with front-wheel drive, you need to remove the CV joints by first unscrewing the wheels. If the CV joint does not get out of the box, you can use a pry bar;

If the car is equipped with rear wheel drive, then it is imperative to remove the cardan;

The box is disconnected from the engine and from the support cushions;

We remove the box, if it cannot be removed, you can try to help with a pry bar;

Before disassembling the gearbox, it must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt;

We untwist the box and carefully study its structure.

If you decide to repair the manual transmission yourself, then it is better to replace all bearings and couplings immediately, since their real wear cannot be determined by eye. The bearings are carefully removed and the new gears are checked for runout. If the gear knocks on the shaft, then the shaft will also have to be replaced.

Assembly and installation of manual transmission takes place in the reverse order of disassembly. Nuances worth paying attention to:

When the clutch is installed, do not forget about the stopper;
Bearings are installed respectively grooves and grooves;
The box must be cleaned of dirt and the edges must be coated with sealant before closing the lid.

Repairing manual transmissions is a rather complicated procedure, but you need to remember that many garage craftsmen even sort out automatic transmissions, which is much more difficult.

The jack is one of the most important tools in the arsenal, it will help everywhere: repairing a machine or equipment, carrying out a variety of construction and repair work. And if suddenly your device is out of order for some reason, you need to learn how to repair a hydraulic jack with your own hands!

A wide variety of jacks will also please, each of which has its own characteristics and distinctive features.

Like any equipment that carries huge loads, devices can often break down, and therefore you always need to know how to repair the jack yourself. To be fully armed at the time of a breakdown!

Any hydraulic jack operates on liquid, and the main elements of the jack are the body, piston and oil. If you decide to study how to carry out repairs yourself, you definitely need to know what reasons can lead to breakdowns. First of all, the structure of the device could be "attacked" by corrosion, which leads to restriction during the descent of the mechanism. Naturally, jacks often break due to too much stress, which leads to bending of the rods. Image - DIY mvp repair

There are some other points, including the need to change the oil. However, any repair is carried out practically according to the same scheme. And the first thing you need to know is how to disassemble the device, after which you can start changing the fluid. The tool is disassembled in the following order:

Using wrenches, unscrew the fasteners;
Remove the fluid bleed valve and piston;
Carrying out a competent inspection, we check the quality of the valve and all gaskets - if you notice that they have become unusable, we just change the elements of the jack;
We clean the mechanism from debris and other foreign elements, rinse the cylinder;
We check and replace the old rubber band if necessary;
The last step is to reassemble the tool in reverse order.

Naturally, after you assemble the jack, it should be checked for operability! If the device starts working, great, but it doesn't always work out the first time. Perhaps the oil is the problem?

Oil is the driving force of the device, it is this oil that presses on the piston, setting the rod to the desired position. Due to this, it is possible to lift almost any load. If there is not enough oil in the device, the mechanism will not work. Many who start repairs for the first time miss this moment, which ultimately leads to problems with the operation of the jack. Oil change instructions: Image - DIY mvp repair

In order to fill the jack with oil, you must first unscrew the plug and drain the old fluid. The next step is to clean the mechanism with flushing fluid, which can be purchased at any hardware store. By the way, it is quite difficult to flush the jack completely, especially for a beginner, because you will have to fill in the liquid at least two or three times, after which the pumping is carried out, the liquid is added again and pumped again. The old oil is drained in the same way - so that not even a drop of old fluid remains inside the mechanism.

The container must be filled with oil to the end, that is, until the liquid reaches the required level. In this case, set the jack in a low position. To lower the stem to the lower position, be sure to turn the screw-cock until it reaches the “drain” position. Having tightened the plug, we carry out the pumping for five times, after which we add oil and tighten the plug again. There will not be enough oil every time during the cleaning process, and therefore it is necessary to pump it until the “fuel” of our jack reaches the required level, and bubbles stop appearing on the surface of the liquid.

As you have seen, repairing jacks with your own hands is a fairly simple job. However, of course, I do not want to bring it to repair work, because it takes both time and effort to implement. That is why we have compiled a selection of recommendations from experts for you. If you follow them, the operation of your jack will become much easier, and repairs can be "pushed" further away. Image - DIY mvp repair

In order for the oil change work to be carried out efficiently and correctly, it is imperative to remove any loads, and the device itself can be started to operate only after you have completely completed all the work and assemble the jack;
It is advisable to change the "fuel" twice a year, and if you use the jack constantly, then at least once a month you need to carry out these works, and you must flush the entire mechanism every time;
You can choose any oil, but if you are going to use the device in the winter season, be sure to use a synthetic solution. This will allow the mechanism to always be in "full combat readiness" for work;
No matter what time of year it is outside, it will be better if you can store the tool in a dry and warm place, otherwise the oil may simply freeze;
If it is necessary to carry out work in the winter season, remember that too long work in the cold can lead to damage to the device, and therefore the operation of the jack is possible in the most extreme cases and for a short time.

If you work with these methods, you can significantly extend the life of the jack. And expensive repairs, which can cost you a significant amount, can be "postponed" indefinitely, which is good news!

We will not disassemble the device of the manual gearbox in detail: we are already talking about it told... However, let's go over the top - to understand the processes that affect our repair.And so, globally, the gearbox is needed in order to transmit torque and power from the engine in a variable rev range.To change that range, pairs of gears with different gear ratios are used - thanks to them, those one and a half thousand revolutions will "turn" into several tens of revolutions of the driving wheels with a simultaneous increase in torque. The principle is similar to a bicycle one: we set off on a small sprocket, accelerated to 40 km / h - and switched to the next pair of gears with a lower gear ratio in order to go faster. There can be 4 or 5 such shifts - modern manual transmissions, as a rule, are five or six-speed. Image - DIY mvp repair

The transmission of torque to the gearbox occurs directly by the meshing of these very gears. The gears are located on the shafts - there are two-shaft and three-shaft boxes. The former have a primary (driving) and a secondary (driven) shaft, while the latter transmit torque from the primary shaft to the secondary through an additional intermediate shaft. The gears located on the shafts are in constant engagement, but all pairs, except for the one that is selected as working at a particular moment, rotate freely. To select a pair - that is, to engage a particular gear by rigidly connecting the gear and the driven shaft - they came up with a special clutch and called it a synchronizer - we will talk more about the design and problems of synchronizers in the next article. By wielding the gear lever from the passenger compartment, you connect one or another gear to the driven shaft through the engagement forks and synchronizers and finally transfer the torque from the engine to it (and therefore to the wheels).

When we talk about a new (or not very new) car, the gearbox is often left out of the way. If you do not take into account the "particularly distinguished" checkpoints, which will be discussed below, most often simply.

In general, anything can fail and wear out in the gearbox - and fixing it, as we know, can be very expensive and difficult. At the same time, the manual transmission is much more "secretive" than the engine: sometimes it is possible to find out about a serious breakdown only after opening it. Therefore, when driving and changing gears, you must always listen to all sounds coming from the gearbox - and visit the service when you first fear.

Having excluded the clutch from the diagnostic list (we will also tell you about it separately), you can hear only crunching or knocking out of the box, but you can see only the lever that randomly returns from the operating position to neutral (in other words, "the transmission flies out"). The latter is usually associated with loose latches or problems with the synchronizer. In the first case, it is the wear of the synchronizers, excessive wear of the shaft bearings or the breakage of the gear teeth. And it’s about gears that we’ll talk about today.

They have several potential problems: excessive tooth wear, chipped or broken teeth, wear on the needle bearings of the gears, or wear on the circlips that can move the gear bushings. In general, chipping or damage to teeth is a rather rare occurrence, since they are calculated with a large margin of safety. But it also happens that the box is simply overloaded, while the clutch does not slip - and the teeth do not hold up.

This can also happen when the gearbox overheats - for example, due to an incorrectly selected transmission oil or due to its low level. Particular attention should be paid to the MCP in winter, in severe frosts. The oil in the crankcase turns into something resembling honey, so you shouldn't start moving right away - it is advisable to stand a little and wait until the oil warms up at least a little. You can feel and understand this by more easily moving the lever from position to position.

A visual aid Especially for this material, PacPac provided us with a FischerTechnik constructor, schematically showing the principle of operation of a manual transmission, and we even.

Returning to the MCP diagnostics, let us recall the sounds coming from it.The knocking or crunching sound can be either constant or occurring only when shifting gears. In the first case, this most likely means a global disaster - the gears are destroyed or the shaft bearings have come to an end. This is rare, but it happens. If the knock is heard only when switching, then there is a possibility that this is either wear of the synchronizers, or the notorious shaft bearings.

You can try to figure it out on the move by switching the gearbox to the next gear with double clutch release: by squeezing the clutch, move the lever to neutral, release the clutch, squeeze it again and, turning on the next gear, release it. If during this "dance" the knocking disappears, then there is a high probability of excessive wear of the synchronizer.

So, today on the "operating table" is a manual transmission 02J manufactured by the Volkswagen concern, which was installed on the Skoda Octavia. According to the owner, the only problem was some kind of knocking when driving in first gear. The knock pestered me, so the box was brought in for "treatment."

The box was brought separately from the car, our master did not drain the oil, and therefore did not see its condition. Having prepared the tools and, to the best of our strength and capabilities, having cleaned the MCP housing from dirt, dust and other foreign objects, we proceeded to disassembly.

Having unscrewed the mounting bolts, we removed the rear cover of the gearbox housing, under which the gears of the 5th gear are located. At the same time, the foreman gave the first assessment of the oil condition. This assessment was expressed in a wrinkled grimace, which gave the owner the first reason to get excited.

Probably the most complex mechanism in a car is the gearbox. When the gears start to "fly out" (when driving in a gear, the lever jumps to the neutral position), when the gear does not turn on well or does not turn on at all, something must be done. Repairing a box at a service station is not only an expensive procedure, but not every service station will undertake such work. You can repair the gearbox with your own hands, the main thing is to be careful, strictly follow the repair instructions and everything will work out. It is highly desirable to have an assistant, since it is very inconvenient to remove / put the box alone.

We drive the car into a hole, tighten the handbrake, and install supports under the wheels;
Remove the engine crankcase protection;
Remove the battery terminal;
In the cabin, unscrew the plate that secures the gearbox knob and remove the knob itself;
Drain the oil from the gearbox;
We unscrew the gearshift knob drive, and all the other bolts that hold the box. An assistant is needed here to hold the box;
Together we swing the box and slowly pull it out of the seat;
We place the box on a table with good lighting for further disassembly.

Unscrew the bell and the 5th gear cover:
We inspect the gear forks for wear, replace them if necessary;
We take out the shafts and remove the coupling;

We inspect for chips and wear of gears and splines;

Step 3. Replacing worn parts

When disassembling the manual transmission, it is better to replace synchronizers, bearings and gear couplings, even if the coupling or guide teeth have little wear: the factory wear tolerance is 0.2 - 0.5 mm, and in the absence of a special tool, it is difficult to determine the real wear;
We remove the bearings for replacement carefully using screwdrivers. It is undesirable to use a hammer. In roller bearings, the roller should not fall out of the cage, since a falling roller indicates wear or rejection;
Check the new gears for runout: if the new gear knocks on the shaft, the shaft must also be replaced;

Stage 4. Assembly and installation of manual transmission

We install the clutch of the 1.2 transfer, orienting the protrusions against the latches on the synchromes;
After installing the coupling, do not forget about the retaining ring;
We install roller bearings carefully, paying attention to the position of the groove and grooves;
We clean the box from dust and dirt, clean the pallet magnet and, having lubricated the edges with sealant, assemble the bell and the fifth gear cover.
We install it on the car and check if all the gears are included.

The main defects of the gearbox are:

wear of gear teeth;
breakage or chipping of teeth;
wear of splines of shafts and gears;
wear of bearings and places of their landing;
wear of forks, stoppers and locks;
crankcase cracks.

Elimination of individual defects of the gearbox is associated with its partial or complete disassembly. During disassembly, the following basic operations are performed:

disconnect the compressor (if any) from the gearbox housing;
remove the top cover with the gearshift mechanism;
unscrew the bolts, remove the front cover and remove the drive shaft with the bearing;
unscrew the back cover and remove the driven shaft with the bearing;
removed from the case of the gearbox of the driven shaft, the axle and the reverse gear;
remove the locking plate of the reverse axle and the intermediate shaft axle and knock out the axles (for ZIS-5 and ZIS-150 cars, unscrew the intermediate shaft bearing caps);
remove the reverse gear and the intermediate shaft or gear block from the crankcase.

Gear teeth are subject to normal wear due to friction and accelerated wear from improper shock shifting, incomplete tooth engagement, jerking, or poor lubrication. In this case, the teeth are chipped, chipped, and sometimes even broken.

The condition of the teeth is controlled by external examination, a template or by measuring their thickness with a caliper along the initial circle of the gear.

The teeth of the gears, which have burrs and a small working out, are cleaned with abrasive bars (donkey). Gears with chipped or broken teeth are replaced with new ones. To obtain the correct meshing of the teeth, it is necessary to replace the mating gears (pair) at the same time. Replacing one gear is allowed when setting not a new one, but an already working gear, which, although due to its wear, can be allowed for further operation.

If necessary, worn and chipped teeth can be restored by metal surfacing followed by heat and mechanical treatment. Gas welding of the teeth is performed with sormite No. 2 (hard alloy) or rods made of rejected connecting rod bolts and valve springs.

Rice. Installation of gears when surfacing teeth:
a - when surfacing the end surface; b - when surfacing the side surface.

When surfacing the end surface of the teeth, the following operations are performed:

Install the gear in a bath of water so that the teeth are immersed in water for 1 / 3-1 / 2 of their length (Fig. A).
The surface of the tooth is heated with an acetylene-oxygen torch until it sweats (without bringing the metal to melting), a flux (borax) is applied and sormite is applied with drops until the worn-out part of the tooth is filled. After surfacing all worn surfaces, the gear is left in the bath until it cools. When surfacing with rods from connecting rod bolts and valve springs, the teeth are hardened by lowering the gear into the bath. The weld-on teeth are cleaned with an abrasive bar.
When surfacing the lateral surface of the teeth, the gear is placed in a bath with water on the rod vertically (Fig. B) and the second tooth is deposited, counting from the surface of the water. When the fused tooth has cooled to a cherry color, it is immersed in water by turning the gear, then the next tooth is fused, etc.

At the end of the surfacing of all teeth, they are cleaned. Worn gear splines are rarely repaired, since gears are usually rejected earlier due to tooth wear. The slots can also be repaired by metal surfacing. Worn splines on shafts are sometimes restored by expansion followed by machining. In addition to wear on the splines, gearbox shafts can have bent and worn ball and roller bearing seats.

The shaft is checked for runout with an indicator at the centers of the lathe.

The bent shaft is straightened without heating under a press.

Worn bearing seats on shafts are restored by metal surfacing by welding, chrome plating, metallization or turning the journals, followed by pressing steel bushings.

Defects of parts of the gearshift mechanism are:

bent or worn forks;
wear of sliders;
wear of locks and stoppers;
wear of the gear lever.

These defects cause spontaneous disengagement of gears, simultaneous engagement of two gears, incomplete engagement of the gears and the release of the lever from the socket of the forks.

When disassembling the gearshift mechanism, you must:

unpin and unscrew the forks fastening bolts;
remove the slider of the first and second gears, as well as the lock and stopper (the rest of the sliders must be in the neutral position);
remove the reverse slider, stopper and lock;
remove the slider of the third and fourth gears and its stopper;
unscrew the cap or the locking bolt of the cover and remove the lever with the spring up (GAZ-51 car) or down (ZIS-150 car).

The deflection of the fork is determined on a test plate and is adjusted cold under pressure. After straightening and a second check, the fork is carefully inspected and, if cracks are found, replaced with a new one.

Worn fork cheeks (covering the gear carriage) and the socket for the ball end of the gear lever are restored by welding the metal. The welded places are processed on a milling machine.

Worn out grooves on the sliders for stoppers and locks are corrected with an abrasive bar. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the center of the recess is not displaced.

Worn balls of stoppers and locks, as well as weakened springs, are replaced.

Rice. Gearbox of the GAZ-51 car:
1 - spacer sleeve; 2 and 6 - cylindrical roller bearing; 3 - the axis of the gear block; 4 - drive shaft; 5 - drive shaft bearing cover; 7 - back cover of the driven shaft; 3 - driven shaft; 9 - flange; 10 - speedometer gear; 11 - ball bearing; 12 - lock plate; 13 - carriage with reverse gears.

When assembling a four-speed gearbox (GAZ-51 car), you must:

lower the carriage with reverse gears 13 into the box crankcase and insert its axis;
install a cylindrical roller bearing 2, a spacer sleeve 1 and a second cylindrical roller bearing into the gear block;
lower the gear block into the crankcase, skip the axle 3 of the gear block and secure it with the locking plate 12 together with the reverse axis;
press the ball bearing onto the drive shaft 4 and secure it with a retaining ring;
insert the bearing thrust ring into the housing of the crankcase and install the drive shaft;
put on the drive shaft bearing cover 5 with a gasket and bolt it to the crankcase;
install a cylindrical roller bearing 6 into the groove of the drive shaft and insert the driven shaft 8, on the front end of which put a thrust ring, and on the rear end - a thrust ring, oil deflector, ball bearing 11 and speedometer gear 10; when installing the driven shaft, you should simultaneously put on carriages with gears of the first and second, third and fourth gears on it;
install the gasket and screw on the rear cover 7 of the driven shaft;
assemble the gearshift mechanism (in the reverse order of disassembly), install the cover with the gasket on the crankcase, inserting the forks into the corresponding gear carriages, and bolt it to the crankcase.

Rice. Gearbox of the car ZIS-150:
1 - power take-off gear hatch; 2 and 7 - nuts; 3 - thrust washer; 4 and 6 - lock washers; 5 - power take-off gear; 8 - a gear wheel of the fourth transfer; 9 - clutch for easy engagement of the fourth and fifth gears; 10 - a gear wheel of the fifth transfer; 11 - a gear wheel of the third transfer; 12 - gear wheel of the second gear with internal teeth for the third gear; 13 - gear wheel of the first transfer and reverse; 14 - thrust ring of the ball bearing; 15 - speedometer gear; 16 - cylindrical roller bearings; 17 - reverse gear block; 18 - hatch of the reverse gear block.

When assembling a five-speed gearbox of a ZIS-150 car, you must:

After the parts have been repaired and the gearbox is assembled, it is run in at the bench for running-in parts and to determine the ease of gear shifting, the absence of noise, knocking, heating and oil leakage.

The running order is as follows:

The gearbox is installed on the stand, the drive shaft is given 1200-1500 rpm and gears are changed, working in each gear for 2-3 minutes.
Pour oil into the gearbox housing to a normal level and check the operation of the gearbox in all gears with a load for 30-40 minutes.
After eliminating the identified defects, replace the grease and flush the crankcase with kerosene.

VAZ cars of model 2101-07 and 2108-15 are equipped with manual transmissions with 4 and 5 steps, have a good mileage resource and fairly good technical characteristics.

Gearboxes on all VAZ cars are not particularly complicated, and many car owners repair the unit with their own hands.

On VAZ-classics and front-wheel drive VAZ models, the gearbox may fail for various reasons:

there is not enough oil in the crankcase, or there is no oil at all (leaked out);
the car is operated in violation of the operating rules (for example, the driver made a switch from fourth immediately to first gear);
transmission parts have worn out;
the checkpoint was repaired in violation of technology, performed poorly;
the box was repaired using defective, low-quality spare parts.

There are signs indicating that the manual transmission is faulty:

under load, one of the speeds takes off (in some cases, several gears can take off);
noise appeared at the checkpoint (crunch, howl);
speeds (one or more) began to shift with difficulty, in some cases one of the gears does not turn on at all;
transmission oil is flowing (the gearbox housing has burst, an increased pressure is created in the crankcase, the gasket in the connection has torn).

If the defect is not related to the gearshift lever or rocker, the VAZ manual transmission is repaired with the removal and installation of the assembly. To determine the cause of the malfunction, after disassembly, a defect is carried out - by external inspection and measurements, the parts to be replaced are determined.

From the factory, both four-speed and five-speed manual transmissions are installed on Zhiguli Classic cars - the units are quite reliable and unpretentious to the oil being poured and operating conditions. The disease of "five-step" - the fifth speed departure, the gear wheel of the 5th gear is weak and wears out quickly. 4-st. Checkpoints are more "tenacious", they break only after the expiration of their service life or as a result of barbaric treatment.

In order to repair the VAZ 2107 4-speed gearbox, you first need to remove the box. We proceed as follows:

we put the car on a pit (lift);
we drain the transmission oil from the box;
in the cabin, take out the gearshift lever;
dismantle the propeller shaft, disconnect the exhaust pipe from the crankcase;
disconnect the traverse from the bottom of the body;

Next, we disassemble the transmission unit:

We inspect the parts and make defect diagnostics - install new parts, assemble the gearbox.

Four-speed gearboxes VAZ 2108-09 were installed only on the first models of "eights" and "nines", mainly on these machines were "five-speed". A frequent illness of the manual transmission 2109 is noise at various speeds, quite often it occurs at idle speed, without squeezing the clutch. If the hum disappears when the clutch pedal is depressed, the cause of the malfunction is the input shaft bearing. The boxes are noisy due to the incorrectly selected oil for filling. Many car owners fill the box with engine oil, but it is too liquid, it has insufficient lubricating properties for gearbox parts. However, even with engine oil, MPP may not make noise - this is a matter of chance.Nevertheless, it is recommended to use a special gear oil for front-wheel drive cars, so there will be less problems with the transmission.

Repair of the VAZ 2109 gearbox is also carried out with the removal of the assembly, after removing the box, we disassemble it:

first of all, we dismantle the bracket on which the clutch cable is attached;
dismantle the back cover;
we unscrew the nuts holding the 5th gear (key or head 32 mm), fasteners are located on the shanks of the shafts (2 pcs.);
unscrew the 5th gear fork bolt, dismantle the fork together with the clutch;
from the other shaft we dismantle the fifth gear itself with a synchronizer;
unscrew four screws, remove the fixing plate;
on the side of the body, remove the three rod retainers (balls and springs);
using spreaders we dismantle the bearing retaining rings;
unscrew the nuts securing the body to the "bell" (13 nuts), halve the body;
we unscrew the bolts of the gear forks, take out the rods, and then the forks;
dismantle the industrial reverse gear;
now we take out both shafts at once;
the differential with a large gear is also removed easily by hand;
dismantle the gearshift mechanism;
now it remains to disassemble the shafts themselves, make troubleshooting, put new parts in place and assemble the box.

The gearbox on the 2114 model is installed almost the same as on the 2108/2109/21099 machines. The "fourteenth" gearbox was equipped with such a gearbox until 2010, and then these cars were equipped with a new "ten" type manual transmission (with an enlarged bell), with one small difference - the gear selection mechanism was taken from the gearbox 2108.

Gearboxes 2108-09 until about 1995 went without dipsticks, the oil level in them was checked, unscrew the control hole plugs on the side of the case. On models 2113-14-15 until 2010, there is almost the same manual transmission 2109 of the new model (with an oil dipstick), therefore, the repair of the VAZ 2114 gearbox is carried out in the same way as on the "nine" box.

The gearbox VAZ 2110 (2111/2112) is in many ways very similar to the gearbox 2109, the difference is as follows:

on the case of the "ten" box, the starter is attached with two pins, on models 2109-09-14-15 - with three pins;
the rear starter bushing 2109 is located in the manual transmission housing, on the "top ten" this bushing is not in the gearbox housing.

If the repair of the VAZ 2110 gearbox does not make sense, for example, to restore its operability, a lot of spare parts are required, if you wish, you can put the gearbox from the "nine", well then it will be necessary for the "top ten":

install a flywheel from 2108;
replace starter 2110 with 2108-09.

The gearbox of the Chevrolet Niva SUV is structurally very similar to the "classic five-step" 2107, therefore, in principle, the repair of the VAZ 2123 gearbox is practically no different from the repair of the VAZ-Classic manual transmission - disassembly and assembly is carried out in approximately the same order. If the native "Chevin" box has become completely unusable, if desired, a 5-speed gearbox can be installed on the car. 2107 or Niva 21213/21214, but some alterations will be required.

Disassembly and assembly of the gearbox is not particularly difficult, the main thing here is not to confuse anything and put all the parts in place correctly. Another thing is important - the most basic problem in repairing a VAZ gearbox with your own hands is to accurately determine the cause of the malfunction, and if all defective parts are not replaced, the problem will not be eliminated, and the work will have to be redone.

Some tips for self-repair of VAZ car gearboxes:

before starting work, you need to stock up on manuals, read the necessary information - it is possible that in one publication the process of disassembling and assembling the unit will be described in incomplete volume;
disassemble and assemble the manual transmission without haste, carefully, once again checking your actions with the instructions;
before disassembling, you should stock up on various boxes, and put the disassembled parts in them in a certain order - even if many parts are replaced, it will be easier to assemble the gearbox;
troubleshooting should be carried out very carefully - pay attention not only to the wear of the gear teeth, but also to the condition of all shafts - they may have worn out seats for the gears;
if the condition of the part is in doubt, it is better to replace it immediately, in which case you will not have to remove / install, disassemble / assemble the gearbox again;
on front-wheel drive VAZs, it is very important to fill the gearbox with high-quality transmission oil (special for front-wheel drive cars) - when using low-quality oil in the manual transmission, noise (howling) may occur;
on VAZ 2108-15 models, the gear and the 5th gear clutch can be replaced without removing the box; for replacement, you need to hang out the power unit and remove the rear transmission cover.