DIY well pump repair

In detail: do-it-yourself pump repair for a well from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Without submersible pumps, not a single well will function properly. This very robust-looking device really is, and is distinguished by its reliability and duration of operation without emergencies.

Connected submersible pump ready to be lowered into the well

Failure of submersible pumps is an extremely rare occurrence (of course - with proper operation). But if it happens, then timely repair of deep-well pumps is necessary in order to avoid additional, sometimes more serious, problems in the water supply system from the well. Fortunately, you can make such repairs yourself.

Due to the fact that the pumping device constantly interacts with water, it is constantly influenced by various negative factors. Fortunately, such negative factors rarely lead to lightning-fast breakdowns, usually the pump's performance is disrupted gradually, gradually and noticeably for the exploiters.

And this means that if small defects are found, it is not necessary to radically replace the deep-well pump, since you can do the repair yourself. By the way, replacing a submersible pump with minor breakdowns is practically never carried out at all. Submersible pumps are even easier to repair, including by hand, than submersible pumps.

In the overwhelming majority of cases of breakdowns of deep-well pumps, it is the magnet of the pumping device that fails. Such a breakdown is most often observed in submersible pumps of the "Sprut" and "Aquarius" brands. Unfortunately, in this case, do-it-yourself repairs will not work, since the equipment for repairing the pump magnet is available only at specialized enterprises. In such a situation, the pump must immediately be taken for repair to specialists..

Video (click to play).

Another thing is extraneous noise when the pumping device is running. Here we are already talking about a breakdown of a mechanical nature. In the overwhelming majority of cases, mechanical damage can be eliminated by hand.

The first step in case of extraneous noise is to disassemble the pumping device for parts. In cases where noises are heard from pumps of the "Sprut" or "Aquarius" brand, it is necessary first of all to check the electrical system of the pump, which includes both the engine itself and the automation system.

Subsurface pump with connected hose

Pumps of the brand "Sprut" and "Aquarius" have breakdowns most often in these systems, which, however, can be repaired quite simply with your own hands. Among other problems that often arise with pumps of the brand "Sprut" and "Aquarius" are breakdowns of the time relay and the protection system against short circuits or dry running.

The reasons for such breakdowns can be the gradual blockages of the internal pumping system with foreign objects from the well soil. In addition, the operation of the pump in dry mode can also become a serious problem, since at such a "stroke" the oil quickly runs out, which leads to uneven and uneven operation of the internal mechanisms of the pump.

In such a situation, over time, the parts undergo deformation, up to the impossibility of repairing in principle. That is why any pumping device, especially popular in the CIS brands "Aquarius" and "Sprut", must undergo constant diagnostics for internal problems, preferably by specialists.

The rarest reasons for the failure of a pumping system are the following:

overheating of the working fluid when its temperature exceeds 40 degrees Celsius;
improper fastening of the submarine cable.

These problems are typical not only for pumps of the brands "Aquarius" and "Sprut", but in general for everyone, since the reasons that led to such problems are in no way connected with the quality of the pump, but directly depend on the professionalism of the pump installer.
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If you find that the device is not working properly, you should not immediately try to fix it, even if the reason is obvious. Initially, you need to check the device for the presence of either minor problems that are not so obvious at the first inspection, or for the presence of a major problem, when it is initially not clear at all why the device does not work.

Submersible pump with accumulated deposits on the casing

On the submersible pumps of the brands "Sprut" and "Aquarius", as, indeed, on any others, the first thing we do is to check whether there was a banal overload, due to which the automatic device and the entire pumping system as a whole could turn off.

disassemble the junction box;
make a visual inspection of the inside - a burnt-out part will be immediately noticeable (a burning smell can also be felt).

If the cause of the breakdown is not clear, then you need to remove the impeller from the pump motor and check whether the motor itself rotates directly in a free state or not.

It is important to know that most modern pumping devices are manufactured in single phase. A so-called "smoothing capacitor" is connected to them, thanks to which the engine starts up more smoothly and smoothly. There is a special winding around it.

In such pumps, the engine most often burns out. Actually for this reason, it is necessary to remove the impeller. And after removing the impeller, you must try to scroll the shaft manually. Thanks to the pre-vacated space, due to the removal of the impeller, this is not difficult to do.

But if the shaft is not spinning, then you need to think about mechanical failure. To be more precise, you should think about engine jamming.

This can happen for the reason that small or, in other cases, large particles of soil constantly get into the engine.

This only happens if the engine does not have an additional protective filter. Actually, these particles can be the cause of such problems. It is noteworthy that if they are not promptly removed from the motor of the pumping device, then this will gradually lead to the fact that the entire stator winding will completely burn out. She, obviously, cannot be repaired, only replaced. However, if the shaft has no problems with rotation, then the lower part of the motor can be assembled.
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Before starting to disassemble the upper part of the electric motor, be sure to place it in an upright position. This is really necessary, as installing the electric motor in the wrong position can lead to oil leakage, which is the working fluid in pumping systems..

After installing the electric motor in the required vertical position, it is imperative to remove the cover through which the power wires of the installed electric motor pass. Actually, when you remove the cover, you can immediately diagnose the starting capacitor for problems. To do this, it will be necessary to use an ohmmeter in order to check the resistance of both the starting and its own working winding.

Therefore, further you need to take the ohmmeter terminals and connect them directly to the winding itself. Next, you need to rotate the handle, which will then create the required voltage of 200 - 300 volts. When the resistance readings on the device do not reach infinity, and this has a certain value, it can be assumed that the condition of the winding is satisfactory or even ideal.

But in cases where the device detects resistance reaching infinity, we can safely say that there is a problem in the form of an interruption in the operating phase of the motor.

Blockage of the inside of the submersible pump

When the device detects too little resistance, we can say that there is a so-called turn-to-turn circuit. Unfortunately, if one of the above possible problems occurs, then an attempt to fix everything with your own hands will not be crowned with success, and the unit will need to be taken to specialists who have the equipment necessary for repairing.

However, in most cases, the problems described above require not so much a partial or complete repair as a complete replacement of all defective parts. Especially when it comes to winding.

If the device says that all the checked elements of the pumping system are in perfect working order, it is necessary to carefully examine the starting capacitor. Under such circumstances, most often the cause of a malfunction of the entire system is precisely its breakdown. In addition, it can be in a state of the so-called breakage.

Unfortunately, at first glance, this problem may not be striking, but when diagnosed with a special device, an ohmmeter, the malfunction will surely come out. And already in these cases, it will be possible to repair the starting capacitor on its own. However, most often, the repair of a starting capacitor can only be called a complete replacement, since its breakdown, and most often it is overheating and combustion of the capacitor, is a fatal breakdown.

Submersible pumps have to work in difficult conditions. They are constantly exposed to water, vibration, low temperature, abrasive particles, etc. But despite the fact that the units are made from parts with a large margin of safety, various malfunctions appear in them over time. To repair water pumps with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the main symptoms that indicate certain breakdowns in the equipment.

If malfunctions are noticed in the operation of a submersible pump, then it does not always need to be removed from the well for inspection. This recommendation only applies to pumping stations where pressure switch installed... It is because of him that the device may not turn on, not turn off or create a poor water pressure. Therefore, first the operability of the pressure sensor is checked, and only after that, if necessary, the pump is removed from the well.

Important! In the case of submersible pumps that operate without accumulators, they should always be removed from the mine at the slightest sign of failure.

It will be easier to diagnose water pump malfunctions if you first familiarize yourself with the most common failures of this unit.

The reasons that the pump does not work may be the following.

Electrical protection tripped... In this case, disconnect the machine from the mains and turn the machine back on. If it knocks out again, then the problem should not be looked for in the pumping equipment. But when the machine is turned on normally, do not plug the pump into the network anymore, you must first find the reason why the protection worked.
Blown fuses... If, after replacing, they burn out again, then you need to look for the cause in the power cable of the unit or in the place where it is connected to the mains.
Cable damage has occurredunder water. Remove the device and check the cord.
Dry-running protection of the pump has tripped”. Before starting the machine, make sure it is immersed in liquid to the required depth.

Also, the reason that the device does not turn on may lie in the improper operation of the pressure switch installed in the pumping station. It is necessary to adjust the starting pressure of the pump motor.

There may also be several reasons that the device does not pump water.

Shut-off valve closed... Turn off the device and slowly open the tap. In the future, you should not start the pumping equipment with a closed valve, otherwise it will fail.
The water level in the well has dropped below the pump... It is necessary to calculate the dynamic water level and immerse the device to the required depth.
Stuck check valve... In this case, it is required to disassemble the valve and clean it, if necessary replace it with a new one.
Clogged intake filter... To clean the filter, the hydraulic machine is removed and the filter mesh is cleaned and washed.

Also, the decrease in performance causes:

partial clogging of valves and gates installed in the water supply system;
partially clogged riser pipe of the apparatus;
depressurization of the pipeline;
incorrect adjustment of the pressure switch (applies to pumping stations).

This problem occurs if the submersible pump works in tandem with a hydraulic accumulator... In this case, frequent starts and stops of the unit can be provoked by the following factors:

the pressure in the hydraulic tank has dropped below the minimum (by default it should be 1.5 bar);
there was a rupture of the rubber bulb or diaphragm in the tank;
the pressure switch is not working properly.

If you notice that the water from the tap does not flow in a constant stream, then this is a sign of a decrease in the water level in the well below the dynamic... It is necessary to lower the pump deeper if the distance to the bottom of the shaft allows this.

If the pump is humming, and water is not pumped out of the well, then there may be several reasons:

there was a "sticking" of the impeller of the apparatus with its body due to long-term storage of the apparatus without water;
defective motor start capacitor;
the voltage in the network sank;
the impeller of the pump is stuck due to dirt collected in the housing of the apparatus.

If the automation does not work, the pump will work without stopping, even if excessive pressure is created in the hydraulic tank (seen from the pressure gauge readings). It's all the fault pressure switchout of order or incorrectly adjusted.

During the operation of pumps from different manufacturers, it was noticed that some brands of devices are often subject to the same breakdowns. It follows from this that these models of units have their own distinctive features in terms of the occurrence of malfunctions.Pumps "Aquarius" have overheating predisposition, especially if they work in shallow wells. If a cheap model breaks down, its repair costs about 50% of the cost of a new device. If the device is out of order, it is easier to throw it away than to repair it.Most of the models of this manufacturer have valve system... There is also a special thermal insulation around the engine. Sometimes pump malfunctions occur due to the failure of the listed parts. Since the thermal insulator is located around the engine, it will need to be removed from the housing for repairs.Devices "Malysh" are products of domestic manufacturers. The cost of repairing units of this brand is not high, and the owners of the devices eliminate most of the breakdowns with their own hands. The main failure often found in this pump is loud noise when operating the hydraulic machine without pumping out the liquid. This behavior of the apparatus means that there has been a rupture of the central axis holding the armature and the membrane.The engine in pumps of vortex and rotary type "Dzhileks" is oil-filled. Therefore, a frequent breakdown of these units is leaking oil from the engine... It can only be refilled at a service center.Important! Many on the Internet advise using transformer oil or ordinary glycerin instead of the original oil filler. Doing this is highly discouraged, of course, unless you have set yourself a goal to spoil the technique in an unusual way.There is an opinion that the operation of the trickle drainage pumps can continue without interruption for 7 hours or more. This is explained by the peculiarity of their design, which meets all European standards. But despite this, the apparatus exposed to overheating as well as pumps from other manufacturers. Therefore, it is recommended to give it time to “rest” after every 2-3 hours of operation.The owners of the pump for the "Markus" well sometimes notice that the device turns on only after a slight blow either on the pipe going to it, or after hitting the hydraulic machine itself. This malfunction is explained by “souring "impeller, which will have to be cleaned by disassembling the unit.In the event of pump breakdowns requiring replacement of parts located inside its housing, disassembly of the unit will be required. The submersible pump consists of a compartment for the engine and a compartment with one or more impellers, the purpose of which is to capture water... Below is a diagram of the device of that part of the centrifugal pump where the impellers are installed.As you can see from the figure, the impellers are mounted on the unit shaft. The more there are, the higher the pressure generated by the pump. In the second compartment of the hydraulic machine is located rotary engine. It is located in a sealed case, and in order to open it, you need to know some of the nuances.So, to go from theory to practice and disassemble the pump, follow these steps (depending on the manufacturer, the design of the unit may differ). Unscrew the 2 screws holding the mesh of the device.

Video (click to play).

Remove the mesh and turn the motor shaft by hand. If it does not spin, then the problem may be located either in the engine compartment or in the pumping part of the apparatus.

First, you need to disassemble the pumping part of the device. Unscrew the 4 screws holding the power cable channel and detach it from the device body.

Next, unscrew the 4 nuts holding the pump flange.

Now that you know how the hydraulic machine is disassembled, you can try to repair the submersible pump with your own hands.

Mostly impeller blocking occurs due to clogging them with sand or dirt deposits on them. In addition, the impellers can be soldered together when a high temperature occurs in the unit, when the pump is idling (dry running). To repair this section of the unit, it is necessary to remove the impeller (s) and remove the accumulated dirt. If the impellers are damaged, they will need to be replaced with new ones.

It is not recommended to repair the pump motor on your own, since it requires special knowledge and the necessary equipment to diagnose this unit and subsequent repairs.

On some pump models, removing the motor will require pressing it out using special equipment. Replacing the oil seal and bearing also carried out at the service center.

If engine hums and won't startthen the capacitor should be checked. It is located in the pump block in which the motor is mounted.

But when the shaft with the impellers rotates without problems, then in order to remove the hum in the water pump, you should disconnect the condenser and replace it with a new one. Better of course check this part with a multimeter, since similar symptoms can be caused by a short circuit in the motor windings.

The water pump motor is located in a special glass filled with oil, and by its condition it is possible to determine some breakdowns in the electric motor block.

The oil has a characteristic, unpleasant odor... This means that the engine is still in working order, but it has been working with great overloads.
Turbid oil - water has entered the engine housing due to a crack in the housing or failure of the oil seal (cuff).
Black oil with an unpleasant odor... In this case, we can say with great confidence that the varnish burned on the engine coils.

Important! Normally, the oil should be clear. Its quantity is determined by the unit model. On average, the volume of oil poured into the chamber is at the level of 0.5 liters.

If, when opening the engine, the above changes in the quality of oil were noticed, then first you need to repair this unit, and only after that fill in new grease.

Everyone knows what is dissolved in water some gas... When a liquid moves at a certain speed, rarefaction zones are sometimes formed in it. In these zones of reduced pressure, gas bubbles begin to emerge from the water. After the bubbles hit the high-pressure zone, they collapse. This process occurs with the release of a large amount of energy, from which the impellers and the pump volute are destroyed. The next photo shows the unit impeller destroyed by cavitation.

The energy of the collapsing bubbles is capable of creating shock wavescausing vibration. It spreads throughout the entire unit and affects not only the impeller, but also the bearings, shaft and seals, from which these parts quickly become unusable.

The cavitation effect can most often be observed in pumping stations that work for suction.... In such systems, the impeller creates a vacuum, due to which water rises through the hose from the well. But if there is a lack of liquid at the pump inlet, then an excessive vacuum occurs in the impeller zone, provoking cavitation.

Important! The most obvious signs of cavitation are vibration of pipes and the pump itself, as well as increased noise during its operation. If you do not take any measures to eliminate this process, then it can completely destroy the station.

To prevent cavitation in the pumps, you should adhere to the rule: there must be more water at the inlet than at the outlet. This can be achieved in several ways:

move the device a little closer to the source;
the diameter of the suction pipe (hose) can be increased;
to reduce the resistance in the suction section, the suction pipe can be replaced with a pipe made of smoother material;
if there are many turns on the suction pipe, then, if possible, their number should be reduced;
it is desirable that all bends have large turning radii.

In recent years, the number of wells in personal and summer cottages has increased tenfold. And the point is not only that the price of drilling work has significantly decreased and drawings of homemade drilling rigs have become available thanks to the Internet. Many are attracted by the fact that there will always be water in the house, regardless of malfunctions in the water supply networks, but it is worth remembering that from time to time you will have to repair borehole pumps, because the equipment resource is not infinite. Image - DIY well pump repair

In the photo: regardless of the size of the equipment, the repair process is the same for all models

As you know, any breakdown is much easier to prevent than to eliminate. That is why the ideal option would be preventive examination and maintenance at least once a year, but it is better to do this twice - in spring and autumn.

This type of work is quite simple:

The pump must be removed from the well, even this work can be quite difficult, especially if the well is deep and the equipment is heavy. In this case, it is better to call an assistant.
After removing the unit, inspect the suspension cable and electrical cable. Next, you should check the body for damage, dirt and corrosion centers.
It is better to start the pump for a short while and listen - any extraneous sound will indicate a malfunction.

Periodic inspection and cleaning greatly reduces the chance of malfunctions. In addition, if sand and silt are present on the pump, this is direct evidence that it is necessary to shake the well, otherwise siltation will lead to pump breakdown, which is unlikely to be eliminated.

In order to better understand how to repair a borehole pump with your own hands, it is worth understanding the causes of certain malfunctions and understanding the most typical problems.Of course, anything can break during use, but there is a certain set of so-called "diseases" that appear most often.

Important! No matter how the seller convinces you that some pump is not worse than a model, the cost of which is 2 times higher, most often the more expensive models are much more reliable and durable.

Don't be scared by the complex schemes of the units, in practice everything is much simpler.

We note right away that most often the unit fails due to the owners' own negligence. Many of them, purchasing a pump, do not even read the instructions, which spell out the rules of use and basic safety measures.

Moreover, the vast majority of users run equipment down the well and do not get it out until it breaks, which could have been avoided by taking it out for inspection at least once a year.

But even with a responsible attitude, malfunctions can occur, consider the most common of them:

The equipment works "dry", this happens if the pump is suspended too high or in the process of water supply the level in the well drops very much. The mechanism must work with water - it serves as a coolant and lubricant, without it, overheating and jamming, and sometimes melting of plastic parts, occurs.
Using a pump that is too powerful, in this case the intake is too intense, and sand is sucked from the bottom, which can severely damage the main pumping part - the pump impeller.

Sand can destroy even a cast iron impeller

Power surges and surges can damage the capacitor and other electrical parts. Voltage stabilizers should be used.
And, finally, common wear and tear of units can be the cause of breakdowns.

The most common causes of malfunctions are:

Accumulator and check valve malfunctions - these units are not included in the system, but if they do not work correctly, the pump is not protected from pressure drops and, most likely, will receive a water hammer.
Erosion and damage to impellers, shafts and other moving parts.
Winding and capacitor faults.
Clogging of the system with sand and silt.

Here's what you can see by disassembling the pump, you must admit that it will not be able to work for a long time

If you do not have any abilities and have never seen even the simplest devices disassembled, it is worth contacting specialists. It is worth doing the same in the absence of at least a minimum set of plumbing tools. But, if you have at least basic knowledge and a set of wrenches and screwdrivers, you can try to do some work yourself.

The simplest diagram of the pump device

Here is the simplest guide for diagnosing and repairing a submersible pump:

Before starting any work, it is worth turning on the pump to the network and listening, if there are any sounds - clicks, buzzing, and so on, the work can be continued, but if there is complete silence, then, most likely, a magnet burned out, which cannot be repaired gives in. This equipment is recyclable.
Next, the lower part of the case is removed. In this type of pump, the motor is single-phase, it has two windings - starting and working. A capacitor is mounted in the starting circuit, the capacity of which can be up to 40 μF. But first of all, the shaft and blades or impellers are checked - everything should rotate freely and not be damaged.
A jammed shaft indicates a burned out stator winding. It is completely replaceable, although in some models this will not be possible and the pump will have to be thrown away. If everything rotates and is not damaged, the lower part is assembled back.

The stator is the outer, fixed part of the pump winding

Before disassembling the upper part, place the housing vertically and secure it, otherwise oil will leak out of the engine. Under the cover, you will see some wires and a capacitor.

Capacitor and wires are located under the pump top cover

First, using a tester or ohmmeter, the resistance of the starting and working windings is measured (usually the operating value is 15-20 ohms, the starting one is 30-40) - if the device shows infinity on any of them, then there is an open circuit in it. Low resistance values are evidence that the winding wires are short-circuiting each other.
And, finally, if all the data is normal, the capacitor is checked. If the reason is in it, then it should be replaced with a similar one.

In the overwhelming majority of cases, carrying out all of the above measures allows you to independently repair the equipment, avoiding significant expenses. As you can see, the work is quite simple, you do not need an electrical engineering education to carry it out - it is important to carry out all the work accurately and scrupulously.

In addition, you can find out if the pump is repairable, and you will not spend money on diagnostics in the workshop, because even if the pump is not suitable for restoration, you will be charged money.

Advice! Remember that the pump housing is permanently submerged in the water, so check the correct position of the gaskets and their condition when assembling.

Do not be afraid to disassemble the pump, take our recommendations into service, and you can easily cope with this task. The video in this article will clearly show some of the steps in the process.

Rare borehole pumps can be characterized by absolute reliability. Some breakdowns can be corrected locally with your own hands, our instructions will help in this matter with a description of typical malfunctions, their diagnosis, elimination, as well as recommendations for maintenance.To say that the water quality in the well is far from ideal is to say nothing. Even if the pump is equipped with a filtering device, it will need periodic cleaning, and the coarse depth filter will not be able to retain the fine fraction settling on the impeller and housing.Most borehole pumps break down precisely due to blockages of the working section by sand and limestone deposits. At least once every two years, you need to remove the pump from the well, flush it and clean the surfaces of functional elements from contamination. Do not be confused by the small amount of deposits: after the plaque has appeared on the surface, further accumulation of deposits occurs in an avalanche-like manner.The pumping station, that is, the lower part of the device, as well as the channels of the water flow, must be cleaned. The pump can be divided into two halves after removing the protective mesh in the central part. It is necessary to unscrew 4–6 nuts from the studs that tighten the flange connection. Then one or two locking screws are unscrewed, holding the flange from unscrewing, and then the flange itself is unscrewed from the glass. In pumps of a monolithic type, you need to unscrew the plug of the bottom filter, for this, the nut of the outlet pipe should be clamped in a vice, the plug itself is easily torn off with a belt wrench.Water pumping in deep-well pumps occurs due to several impellers sequentially mounted on the shaft. They need to be removed, remembering the assembly order, and then cleaned of dirt along with the inner surface of the sleeve, mesh and other elements in contact with water. The surfaces of the parts should not be cleaned mechanically to avoid scratching. It is better to use mild household chemicals for descaling and rust converters, and then wipe off the remaining plaque with a soft synthetic brush or the rough side of a dish sponge.The primary diagnostics of the pump includes its withdrawal from the well and short-term “dry” start-up with control of the shaft rotation. In this case, you should pay attention to the nature of the engine hum: it should not experience additional load, crackling, rustling and uneven hum are categorically unacceptable.Please note that you need to check the pump without reconnecting to the mains. The length and cross-section of the wire should be the same as in everyday work.This is due to the fact that the voltage drop on the power line of more than 30-50 meters can be very significant, besides, it is impossible to exclude a fracture of the cores, breakdown of insulation and malfunction of the protective and starting automatics. Image - DIY well pump repair

Damage to the insulation of the mains cable

First of all, disconnect one of the power leads from the pump terminal block and measure the voltage - it should not be lower than the permissible rating values. If the voltage drop is too strong, then replace the cable with a better or larger section. Also in a completely disconnected cable, measure the resistance between the conductors and each of them separately. In the first case, the multimeter will not give readings in any of the ranges, the opposite indicates insulation breakdown, which is typical for PVA grades insulated with foamed PVC compound. The value of the resistance of the current-carrying conductors themselves will bring more clarity to the problem of voltage drop, help to eliminate the influence of transition resistances at the terminal clamps.

Also, do not forget to find out if the circuit breaker is out of order. Its rating is precisely matched to the pump, so that at the slightest overload, the power is turned off, preventing damage to the motor part. Mostly used are automatic switches with the "A" tripping characteristic; the rating is selected and regulated both in terms of the pump power, and in terms of supply voltage and line length.

As mentioned, there are two types of borehole pump designs. They are most easily distinguished by the location of the engine: in monolithic ones, it is located in the upper part of the common housing and is washed by a stream of water. In rod versions, the motor module is mounted from below through a flange connection, the pump and motor shafts are connected by a splined coupling. Water intake is carried out in the middle part of the casing through the mesh, and therefore such pumps are more susceptible to dry running at a low dynamic level of the well.

The main advantage of the rod design is the ability to determine the cause of a malfunction without thorough disassembly. After disconnecting the two parts, the stroke and play of the shaft in each of them can be checked separately, while for monolithic pumps, all the impellers must be removed first.

The device is a sucker rod pump. А - pumping part: 1 - outlet branch pipe; 2 - pump shaft; 3 - compensation ring; 4 - a sealing ring; 5 - suction chamber; 6 - splined coupling; 7 - motor shaft; 8 - protective mesh; 9 - impeller; 10 - impeller bearing; 11 - flow channel; 12 - check valve. B - engine: 13 - sand drainage channel; 14 - seal; 15 - stator winding; 16 - bearing for removing axial load; 17 - thrust bearing; 18 - pressure equalization system; 19 - rotor; 20 - grease; 21 - pump shaft; 22 - clutch; 23 - network cable

There are also other design solutions. In particular, screw pumps are designed like rod pumps, but the water intake is carried out in the upper part, while the principle of operation is somewhat different. The main advantage is the ease of servicing the pumping part: the auger and, if necessary, the damper clutch can be replaced in 10-15 minutes. It is enough just to unscrew from 3 to 5 bolts on the upper end and remove the outer sleeve of the pumping unit. It is important to remember that auger pump motors can run dry almost indefinitely, but only if the auger is removed.

Auger (screw) borehole pump

Immediately after purchasing the pump, it is very important to carry out several short-term dry-running starts and one or two long-term starts with immersion in a container with water. At the same time, the nature of the noise during operation is assessed and memorized.

A change in the tone of the sound may indicate a mismatch in the supply voltage. With a strong fall, the hum of the engine will be lower and strained, if such a pump is lowered into the well, it may simply not raise the water to the desired height, even when it is completely serviceable.Too high tonality may be due to the fact that the pump does not transmit rotation to the impellers or other working element. The reason may be a burst shaft, worn-out splines at the rod connection, or broken seats of the impellers.

Howling (singing) during operation is a characteristic sign of increased friction in thrust bearings. Broken separators may indicate a crackling sound or severe vibration. An extreme case is a jamming of the shafts, while the pump motor is humming with tension, but does not rotate.

Deep well pumps are equipped with a single-phase, mostly brushless asynchronous motor. There is a starting capacitor in the wiring diagram. The stator of the electric motor has a monolithic fastening to the frame, often it is filled with epoxy compound.

In pumps of a monolithic design, the engine must be squeezed out of the glass by pressing on the branch of the outgoing pipeline connection with the impellers removed. In rod pumps, the motor part is disconnected when the two halves are undone, in screw pumps - after removing the working screw. In all cases, the inside of the motor (capacitor, connection terminals) can only be reached after removing the sealed plug. It is fixed with 2–3 screws on the side surface of the sleeve and a strong retaining ring. In some types of pump, the plug may require the use of a special puller.

Borehole pump motor stator

All borehole pump motors are filled with oil that serves as a lubricating, cooling and dielectric function. Special edible oil is used, but it is commercially available. Signs of poor quality can be a cloudy color of the oil when mixed with water, darkening or the presence of mechanical impurities, as well as an insufficient level. If the oil is normal, it must be drained into a clean dry container, leaving the motor housing for 15–20 minutes until the residues are completely drained from the walls. Insufficient oil filling of the engine indicates wear of the stuffing box seals.

In addition to spoiled oil, worn bearings can be the cause of engine malfunction, which is determined by backlash and freewheel noise. If the pump has been operated for a long time under extreme conditions, the shaft may be twisted (twisted), the insulation of the windings may overheat. Burned-out stators are practically beyond repair, but they are easy enough to replace.

Burning of the stator winding due to water ingress into the motor

In addition to contamination, the main reason for the pumping mechanism breakdown is long dry running. Due to the lack of liquid, the blocks of centrifugal impellers get very hot and sintered, so the only repair option is to replace them. The situation is similar with the auger and bushings. Also, with jammed impellers, the shaft can turn in the mounting holes, and in powerful pumps, its deformation and even destruction.

In screw pumps, screws and bushings are consumables, they are changed every 3-5 years, depending on the intensity of use. The main reasons are natural aging of elements and exposure to small abrasive particles.

Screw and sleeve for auger pump

Let us draw your attention to the fact that the parts of borehole pumps have a high accuracy of fit, due to which the cleaned mechanism can be easily assembled and disassembled. If, during assembly, the parts do not fall into their places freely, then the order of installation of the elements is violated. There are specific design differences in different pump models, but the basic recommendations for self-repair and disassembly for the purpose of revision are always described in the user manual, which often includes an assembly diagram.

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