DIY jileks jumbo pump repair

In detail: do-it-yourself jilex jumbo pump repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Dzhileks pumps are pressure equipment for water supply, which has come into our use since 1993, when the Dzhileks plant was founded in the Russian city of Klimovsk, Moscow region.

Pressure equipment for wells and boreholes, for use in open reservoirs and sewerage systems, intelligent water supply systems and hydraulic accumulators, expansion tanks, pipes and fittings - the plant's product line is expanding and improving with each other.

Despite the fact that the products of the Dzhileks company are distinguished by their strength and durability, like any other technique, they require periodic inspection, prevention or repair. Fortunately, the range of accessories and additional equipment allows you to solve a problem of any level of complexity. A wide dealer network and a well-functioning system of service centers can always help with repairs.

But, given the specifics of the mentality of our people and, sometimes, the real lack of the ability to take the device to the service center, the Jileks pressure equipment can always be repaired with your own hands. However, to begin with, let's figure out what and why can fail in pressure apparatus.
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Any pressure equipment gradually wears out, and, due to a number of reasons, it can periodically give its owners some inconvenience that requires urgent intervention. Fortunately, the design of the pumps is quite simple:

Partial disassembly of the Jileks borehole pump

case box;
electric motor;
seal system;
shaft with impeller;
pipe branch;
flow channel and check valve;
filters;
electric cable.

Video (click to play).

The most common problems that consumers of pressure equipment may encounter can be:

when connected to the network, the equipment does not turn on - you need to test the contacts, drive and cable;
increased noise or vibration during operation of the equipment - check the motor, shaft bearings and impeller;
the motor does not respond - it is necessary (if possible in a particular model) to check and replace the winding;
a relay or a hydraulic accumulator fails - most likely the reason is a membrane rupture or a water pressure level in the system that is different from the one stated in the product's technical passport;
the pump does not turn off - most likely the problem is a malfunction of the Jileks Crab automation unit.

Consider the most common models of pressure equipment Vodomet, which have a similar structure of the apparatus. This is a model range of a submersible pump marked Profi - improved specifically for work in wells with sandy walls and bottom.

Cleaning the pump Jileks Vodomet

Models 40/50 (75), 55/35 (50/75/90), 110/110 (75H / 110H) practically do not fail from overheating, because equipped with an annular slot for cooling the engine with water... In addition, the valve and piston system is excluded from their design, which contributes to greater durability and added filter systemwhich does not often clog the inlets. And two seals for insulation and sealing of the electric motor and an external thermal switch greatly facilitate the process of diagnostics and repair.

Systems of old models Vodomet 60/52 (32/72/92) and 115/75 (115) designed for static water levels from 5 to 25 meters. The main difference between the models is the different number of steps.

Repair of the Dzhileks Vodomet 60/52 submersible pump should be started with careful disassembly of the device, after an external examination and diagnostics. If you are disassembling the device for the first time, it is important that the diagram and order of the parts to be disassembled during the subsequent assembly are strictly observed.

Following the instructions of the Jileks company, the repair of the water cannon pump begins with unscrewing the water intake hole. Then we remove all the parts from the shaft, and only then we take out the white ring of the stopper and the engine from the outer glass. The procedure is as follows:

install the device in an upright position;
tapping on the fitting cover, move the ring from its place with the engine, which cannot be pulled out simply through the thread;
install the device in a horizontal position and, pulling the cable back a little, move the engine back;
put a screwdriver on the ring and move it so that you can turn it across the body;
we take out the ring and the engine;
disassemble the compartment with the wiring and check the capacitor compartment for moisture (especially if the device was shocked);
checking the oil;
we check the covers between the steps and the impellers for the degree of wear (we pay special attention to these details if the apparatus hummed, but did not pump water);
checking the filter grids.

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The drains are specially designed to pump liquids of varying degrees of contamination from the required space. All models of this kind are equipped with safety floats to prevent dry running and sealed bearings. Otherwise, the modifications differ from model to model in details.

You can repair a faulty Jileks drainer with your own hands if there are two problems:

the device does not turn on;
the device hums, but refuses to work.

In the first case, you should pay attention to the possibility of failure of the capacitor or the winding. The disconnection of the device can be caused by a short circuit due to voltage surges and a burned out winding. In addition, the pressure unit may shut down if the impeller or float is jammed.

In the second case, either the connection does not work (the cable is frayed outside or inside), or problems with the valve or stem. The stem is broken or the mountings on the shock absorber are loose. Broken stem cannot be corrected on its own.
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The pumping station is a self-priming surface centrifugal pressure apparatus with an ejector and a piping system. Models of this series are designed for horizontal installation and pump from 3 cubic meters of water per hour. The models differ in the engine noise level and the presence of automation, which is needed to monitor the water level.

Partial disassembly of the Jlex pumping station

The Jileks automation unit must be configured in such a way as to turn off if the water level falls below the declared minimum according to the technical passport. If the tuning and adjustment of the station is incorrect, then it will not turn off in time, which will lead to breakdowns.

Consider an example of repairing a pumping station Jileks Jumbo. They are equipped with a pressure switch RDM 5, a tank with membranes (hydraulic accumulator), an electric motor, a centrifugal pump unit, a water intake with a filter and a piping system. The pressure inside the unit can be monitored using the arrow on the pressure gauge.

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There are five main reasons why a station may fail or not work correctly:

Buzzing but not working. This happens if you leave your device without water and movement for a long time. The impeller could just stick to the body. Twist it manually and try to connect. If it still does not work, check the voltage level of the mains and the condition of the capacitor.
Doesn't turn on at all. Call the network, winding, cable with a tester. Perhaps somewhere the contacts just went away, and, as soon as they are connected, everything will work again.
It pumps water constantly and does not turn off.You need to configure the relay. It can be adjusted with two fixing springs or screws (depending on which relay is installed in your station model).
The flow of water is intermittent. The problem is the depressurization of the pipeline or joints. It is also worth checking the water level.
Too frequent switching on of the device with an uneven flow of water. It is necessary to check the setting of the relay and the integrity of the constituent parts of the accumulator tank. Either you have to change the unusable membrane, or the tank is cracked, or the relay itself is broken.

The pumping station is perhaps the most the best technical solution to ensure the uninterrupted operation of an autonomous water supply system... The equipment, selected taking into account all parameters, perfectly functions in a single system, maintaining constant pressure in the pipes and regulating the smooth start of the pump.

Domestic models of such equipment are in fact in no way inferior to foreign counterparts and even win in comparison with them in price. In addition, they are initially designed to work in our conditions and therefore have increased resistance to voltage drops in the electrical network, as well as other unfavorable factors.

One of the most popular in the domestic market is the products of the Russian company "Dzhileks", which produces, among other things, pumping stations of high quality and maintainability.

An example is the budget pumping station "Jumbo 70/50 P-50 DOM", which can be purchased at a price of 10,600 rubles. But, despite the cost, the equipment is able to provide a country house with water and not create problems for its owners.

Simple breakdowns can be eliminated by yourself without contacting a service center. But even with particularly complex problems, there will be no difficulties.

The manufacturer produces repair kits and spare parts for all models. In a repair shop, you can replace any part or assembly of the pumping system. And this repair will cost relatively inexpensively compared to repairing foreign pumps.

The main breakdowns are associated with malfunctions or pump failure, as well as with a breakdown of the automatic control system, which includes a pressure switch - the central unit of the pumping station automation.

It should be noted that surface-type pumps have a long service life due to their careful maintenance in specially equipped rooms with a constant temperature and low air humidity.

Submersible models of the "Water cannon" type, which are constantly in the well, wear out faster. Experts recommend removing the submersible pump from the water in winter if the owners do not use it. Compliance with this simple rule will keep the unit in working order for many years.

A characteristic feature of the pumps is the vulnerability of the motor. High loads and dry running very often damage the winding. It is economically unprofitable to change it. Better to get a new engine right away. Therefore, if the pump fails, it will be logical to look for the cause of the breakdown in the engine. And this is not necessarily a blown winding. Perhaps the impeller is out of order, the wire is damaged, or the contacts need to be stripped.

"70/50 P-50 HOUSE" has a durable glass-filled polypropylene body. All threaded parts are made of brass, which allows trouble-free

disassemble the unit for technical inspection and repair. The presence of a built-in ejector allows you to use equipment for taking water from any reservoir, irrigation tank, wells and wells, up to nine meters deep.

The supply of spare parts for warranty and post-warranty repairs is carried out by the manufacturer to the regional service centers. The list of these organizations is attached to the technical data sheet of the product. Sending by mail from the factory at the request of consumers is currently not provided.

However, you can order a failed assembly or a spare part through online stores.

Estimated cost of some spare parts:

hydroaccumulator - from 990 r. (for 24 liters);
membrane - from 400 r. (24 l tank);
"Pear" - up to 1,000 rubles;
pressure switch - from 600 rubles;
engine repair (rewind) - up to 1,500 rubles;
impeller - from 196 rubles.

The pumping station includes the following important technical units:

hydroaccumulator;
surface pump with a built-in ejector;
relay for monitoring the pressure in the system;
manometer is the main measuring device of the station.

The pump has a sealed casing. To protect against overheating, a fan and a thermal protector are installed inside. Surface type models are extremely sensitive to overheating during dry running.

The most common problem is the jerky water supply and frequent automatic operation, which increases the load on the pump motor. This is a symptom of a problem with the accumulator or pressure switch.

There may be no air in the accumulator between the casing and the diaphragm or bulb. To eliminate the problem, unscrew the protective cap at the end of the body and measure the air pressure through the nipple using a car pressure gauge. Before checking, the pump is disconnected from the electrical network, and the water is drained through the tap! Lack of pressure is corrected by pumping air with a car pump. The pressure is monitored again. Its optimal performance is from 1 to 1.5 atmospheres.

The relay is adjusted with a wrench. There are two springs with nuts under the protective cover located above the water pipe connection hole. The large nut is responsible for adjusting the switch-on pressure (minimum indicator on the pressure gauge) - this value is adjusted first when the pump is off. Then the result is checked with the pump turned on using the built-in pressure gauge. A smaller bottom nut will help adjust the shutdown pressure (higher reading on gauge). By twisting it clockwise, you can achieve an increase in the indicator. Counterclockwise - decrease it. The setting must be controlled according to the technical data sheet of the pump, where the optimal values of the pressure difference are indicated!

If water leaks from the nipple, the pear or membrane has ruptured. It is required to dismantle the accumulator, disassemble the case and replace the failed part.

A failed relay is determined by checking the voltage at the unit contacts using a household tester. If the voltage is not fixed, it is necessary to replace the relay with a new one. Also, in some cases, cleaning helps - the careful removal of salt and dirt deposits from the contacts.

Sometimes the cause of an air leak is the depressurization of the accumulator. Small defects caused by corrosion are eliminated using "cold welding" - a special sealant. Replacing the tank can cost from 900 to 3,000 rubles, depending on its size.

Turning on the pump at night, when the owners do not use the water pipes, indicates a loss of tightness of the water pipes. In this case, the help of a plumber is appropriate. A specialist call costs from 600 rubles.

Water does not flow when the pump is on. This is a sign of pump failure. A characteristic smell of melting insulation can be noticed near the unit. For

solving the problem will require rewinding the motor or replacing it. Before contacting the service center, check and clean the electrical contacts in the automatic control unit! In half of the cases, the reason for shutting down the pump lies precisely in such a "trifle" as a clogged contact.

Also, the reason for the lack of water in the tap may be a breakdown of the impeller - a complex rowing device located in the pumping chamber. To eliminate the breakdown, it is necessary to dismantle the pump, open the casing and disassemble the impeller, replacing the broken part with a new one.The job requires at least minimal technical knowledge! If the owner is doing this for the first time, it is better to contact the service center.

There are only two reasons for this trouble - low voltage in the electrical network and incorrect settings of the pressure switch. The voltage can be measured with a tester. And on the relay, the shutdown pressure decreases (for this, a smaller spring with a nut is used). The task of the repairman is to reduce the upper pressure indicator on the pressure gauge, at which the pump should turn off. If the upper indicator of the pressure gauge is too high, the pump cannot pump the required pressure, and the automatic control does not work due to an erroneous setting. This error must be eliminated.

In this case, you should immediately disconnect the station from the mains. The reason for this trouble is the drop in the water level in the well or well. To eliminate the breakage, it is necessary to lengthen the water intake pipe. Also, the cause may be a leak in the plumbing system. Breakage is repaired by plumbers.

A homemade ejector for a pumping station is enough to do. This will save you from problems with poorly made ejectors.

Unfortunately, breakdowns are not always easy. There are more complex reasons for the failure of the pumping station, which, nevertheless, can be eliminated with your own hands.

Worn engine oil seal results in potable water leakage.
To eliminate the breakdown, it is necessary to dismantle the pump and disassemble the casing by removing the impeller. All parts are laid out on the table in the order in which they were removed from the case!
The stuffing box prevents water from leaking through the shaft. To remove the impeller, you will need to unscrew the bolt. For this, the cover located above the cooling fan and the fan itself are removed from the opposite side of the pump.
After that, using a vise, you can clamp the shaft - the bolt will unscrew without problems. The oil seal is secured to the shaft with a retaining ring. First, the first part of the oil seal is removed. Then the bolts on the console are unscrewed and the entire engine is removed. After that, the second part of the gland is removed. Install a new oil seal in reverse order.
Problems with the relay (delayed response to a drop in pressure, for example) are often associated with a narrowing of the hole going to the relay membrane due to metal oxidation and the appearance of deposits on it.

To eliminate the problem, the station is de-energized and water is drained from the system. The wires of the control unit are disconnected.
Using a wrench, the relay is unscrewed. The membrane block is removed from it and the hole clogged with rust is cleaned with a small screwdriver.

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In the same way, the technical hole in the clutch installed on the accumulator (at the place where the relay is attached) is cleaned. The relay box is then reassembled in reverse order and reinstalled.

Timely maintenance is essential for a long equipment life. It includes:

control of water and air pressure in the accumulator;
regular cleaning of contacts and relay membrane.

Breakage of a pump of this brand is extremely rare.

Especially with the correct setting of the pressure switch, which ensures the gentle operation of the pump.

Well pumps are used all over the world. After their invention and appearance on the mass market, the popularity of this equipment only began to grow.Surface pump Jileks Jumbo for pumping stationHowever, pumps tend to break down, and the breakdown will have to be fixed as soon as possible. You don't want to live for weeks without water. We will now talk about pump repair, and for the next example, we will take products from the Jileks company.The pump is a fairly simple mechanism. Its design is not particularly complex, but this is only a comparative judgment. After all, it contains a motor, contacts, an impeller, a shaft, seals, a housing, etc.All these parts interact with each other, which leads to their gradual wear. As a result, the pump will also need to be repaired.Plus, it is worth noting that the pump works in rather difficult conditions. This does not apply to Jileks surface pumps, which are assembled together with hydraulic accumulators and installed in separate rooms. However, even such equipment often requires repairs.

What can we say about submersible pumps, for example, about the representatives of the Jileks Vodomet line. Find such equipment in a well or a well all the time. As a rule, they do not take it out for the winter, which only complicates the situation.It is worth noting that due to the relative simplicity of the design, it is quite possible to repair all equipment with your own hands. This, of course, is not the best option, since if you make a mistake, you will not only not repair the pump, but only aggravate the situation.However, in some situations, you can only do it yourself with your own hands. The main thing is to understand the design features of submersible and surface pumps, as well as their types of connections.There are several of the most popular and well-known pump failures that should be highlighted separately. Diagnosing them is pretty easy too. For example, if electricity is connected, but the pump simply does not respond, then something has happened with the contacts or the supply wire.Disassembled submersible pump, stopper removed from the top of the housingIt is quite easy to check this if you have the ability to disassemble the device and diagnose the contacts with a tester. The absence of a signal on one of the contacts indicates its damage. It is possible that by this time it will become damp, have an unnatural color, etc.If all the mechanisms do not respond, then the cable is broken. This often happens with submersible pumps of the Vodomet type, since their cable is suspended and poorly protected.The hum in the engine, uneven operation, clicks or "flooding" of the pump are all the result of problems with the engine or impeller. You can check the correctness of the theory if you disassemble the device and inspect it yourself. It is possible that the impeller is cracked or the bearings on the rotation shaft are out of order. These are the most common problems.If the engine simply refuses to work, then the problem is already in it. Moreover, we already recommend not to mess with the engine. This is a rather delicate mechanism, especially on submersible models. For example, the pump engine Vodomet 50/25 cannot be disassembled at all, but this is typical only for some models.Most often, the motor winding burns out, it can be replaced, but whether it will be beneficial is a pressing question. It is possible that it will be easier to simply replace it with a new one. Moreover, the Jileks company supplies spare parts for its products to almost all stores in the country.In surface pumps, for example, in Jilex Jumbo stations, the engine may burn out altogether or wear out very much. All this is due to the dry running of the pump. Unlike submersible models, surface samples are very susceptible to this moment, and they suffer from dry running fairly.If we are talking about pumping stations of Jilex Jumbo, then here it is also worth noting one wide breakdown, which occurs very often. It consists of problems with the pressure in the system.There may be several reasons for this:Jileks Jumbo pumping station under renovationIn the first case, the relay itself gets lost. It is easiest to check it, since the relay is easy to configure and rather primitive. If there are problems during setup, then the relay is to blame.In accumulators, the diaphragm with air can burst or be damaged. This can only be checked with a full or partial disassembly of the tank. The lack of a sufficient amount of air in the membrane leads to an imbalance of the entire system and, as a consequence, a drop in pressure.The pump can also react negatively, but this is extremely rare. As a rule, working elements fail, and the device simply cannot cope with pumping. But then you would have noticed the accompanying signs of breakage. For example, slight hum, low head, poor impeller rotation, etc. In all other cases, either the relay or the accumulator is to blame.Now let's look directly at the repair of pumping equipment. It should be understood that repairing a submersible sample will differ from repairing a surface one.First, let's turn to the models of the Water cannon type. The Vodomet pump is a submersible sample that is available in different configurations. There are models in the 40/50, 55/35, 110/110, etc. However, they differ not so much in design as in the choice of specific components and sizes. Otherwise, their design is extremely simple and is repeated constantly.Disconnected consumables, filters and water inlets of the Vodomet pumpRepair of a water cannon pump always begins with its disassembly. To do this, you need to carefully remove it from the well, disconnect it from the system and dry the pump from water.

We take out and dry the device.

Remove the top case or cover.

We remove the water intake mechanisms, we will have to use a vice. But remember that the inside of the case is hollow, and therefore it is important not to overdo it.

We disassemble the pumping part, if the breakdown lies there, then at this stage you will eliminate it. Otherwise, you will have to move to the engine.

Remove the plastic corkscrew ring and take out the engine.

We carefully pull out the wires and assess their condition.

After completing the repair, pour non-toxic oil into the engine and assemble the pump in reverse order.

It is important to note that the oil in the engine must be harmless. Glycerin is ideal as it does not harm or contaminate the surrounding fluid.After disassembling the pump, it will be quite easy to troubleshoot the problem. Problem contacts can be wiped with alcohol or soldered. Broken wires are replaced with new ones or fastened in an artisanal way.Damaged consumables or rotating parts are only replaced. It is cheaper to buy them than to repair them. Well, it is better to send the engine to a specialist who can disassemble, clean and repair it, as well as guarantee you a positive result.As you can see, it is quite easy to disassemble and repair the Vodomet pump. Moreover, it does not matter which water cannon you choose, since the design principle remains the same.Ready-to-use water jet pumpThey act a little differently when repairing surface pumps and stations such as Jilex Jumbo. Here it is already necessary to deal with a specific solution to the problem. If the pump jams, then you need to remove the housing and check all systems.

We disconnect the equipment from electricity, the accumulator and drain the fluid in the hose.

Unscrew the back of the case.

We remove the moving parts of the case.

We disassemble the pump chamber.

We remove the impeller seals.

Pull out the engine carefully.

We disassemble with wires.

After completing the repair, we assemble the pump back.

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As in the previous case, you can solve the problem with breakage at any stage. The advantage of surface pumps is that their casing is not one-piece, and it is easier to remove it. In this case, parts can be removed and disconnected inconsistently.If there are problems with the impeller or consumables, then they are simply changed. You will have to get to the contacts through the engine's camera - this is the main problem, but there shouldn't be anything complicated here either.The accumulators are disassembled by disconnecting the hose and unscrewing the plate. Then the membrane is pulled out from there.It is advisable not to repair the relay yourself, as it is very easy to damage it.