DIY gardena pump repair

In detail: do-it-yourself gardena pump repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

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8(985)821-40-58 / 8(499)391-20-22

Dear visitors! Orders are placed only through the basket.

The materials presented in this article contain information regarding the repair and operation of Gardena domestic water supply stations of the following models:

3000/4 Classic (art. 1770)
4000/5 Classic (art. 1772)
5000/5 Comfort (art. 1774)
5000/5 Inox Premium (art. 1775)

You can order the spare parts necessary for the repair in our online store:

The list of the most demanded spare parts:

One of the most common failures of Gardena domestic water pumping stations is a leak after winter, caused by a crack in the orange tee (branch pipe). How to independently eliminate this trouble will be discussed in this article.

Step 1. First you need to separate the pumping part from the reservoir. To do this, pull out the metal bracket by pushing it out from the back, and then unscrew the plastic bolts by turning them to the open position (Fig. 1).

Fig 1. Metal bracket and plastic bolts

Step 2. After that, you can separate the pump from the tank using a conventional screwdriver. Just gently press on the plastic hook and, bending it back, at the same time separate the pump from the tank (by pulling the entire pumping part up). It may not be possible the first time, but after several attempts you will succeed (Fig. 2).

Video (click to play).

Fig 2. Separation of the pumping part from the tank

Step 3. Now you need to remove the pump housing. Everything is simple here, we unscrew all the bolts and then carefully separate it (Fig. 3). Be careful, do not forget that there is a gasket in this part of the pump, do not damage it with sudden rash actions.

Fig 3. Removing the pump casing

Step 4. The next step is to remove the fan guard, which is located on the opposite side of the pump. You need to simultaneously bend the plastic hooks on both sides of the casing and pull it towards you (Fig. 4).

Fig 4. Removing the fan guard

Step 5. The last step in this section is to remove the two remaining plastic side covers. They are held with hooks in the lower area (Figure 5).

Fig 5. Removing the plastic side covers

Step 6. All preparatory work is completed, we have access to the interior of the station.

We turn the station over, find and unscrew two screws and take out the fixing bracket that hold the electronic control unit (Fig. 6).

Fig 6. Location of screws and staples

Step 7. After that, gently bend back the two plastic hooks that hold the block and pull it towards ourselves to disconnect (Fig. 7).

Fig 7 Removing the electronic unit

Step 8. You can start replacing the branch tube. First of all, you need to carefully unscrew the pressure gauge. It is secured with a conventional right-hand thread. Then it remains only to remove the cracked branch pipe (orange tee). To do this, we find several plastic hooks that hold it, bend them and pull the tube up (Figure 8). Be extremely careful, the hooks can break off very easily!

Rice. 8 Removing the branch pipe

Note! Very often, after freezing, the pressure gauge may also fail, check for external damage or water inside. A characteristic sign of its breakdown is inadequate indicators - the arrow goes off scale in the region of the maximum mark.

Another important note is that, as practice shows, attempts to restore cracked parts (pump housing or drain tube) do not bring the desired result. Neither gluing them, nor soldering, nor tightening with clamps helps. Since the parts work under pressure, it is almost impossible to avoid leakage in this case. Hence our advice - do not suffer trying to fix old parts, but immediately order new ones. Thus, you will save yourself a lot of time and effort.

After you have installed new parts, you need to completely assemble the pumping station (for this, move in the opposite direction, starting from stage 8) and check it for operability. When assembling, it is especially necessary to carefully install rubber gaskets; for reliability, you can use a special silicone grease.

When the station is assembled, plug it in and let it run as usual, until it turns off automatically. This is best done in a closed system to eliminate external water loss. After that, wipe the leaks dry and leave it in this form (under pressure) for 15 minutes. If no signs of a leak were found during the elapsed time, and the station did not turn on (provided that there was no water withdrawal), you did everything correctly. Congratulations! =)

And remember, in order to exclude such breakdowns in the future, it is necessary to store the station exclusively in a heated room!

The drainage pump in a suburban area is a kind of magic wand in case of unforeseen situations. By design, it resembles equipment for the supply of drinking water, but it has the ability to move contaminated media with large inclusions.

Let's try to understand the weaknesses of the unit and find out if it is possible to repair the drain pump with our own hands, if necessary.

The ability to pump water with fine gravel, large inclusions of sand, organic debris is a very useful quality when you need to pump out water after flooding or drain a pond. Drainage units are designed to work in such conditions, but exceeding the load often leads to breakdowns.

It is better to get acquainted with the internal filling of the device immediately after purchase in order to imagine which parts may fail in case of clogging or breakdown. To do this, it is not necessary to open the case or disassemble - it is enough to study the diagram that is attached to the instructions for connecting and maintaining the device.

Apparatuses for private use in summer cottages do not differ in high power or complex filling. Unlike heavy industrial equipment, they are compact, relatively light (average weight - 3-7 kg), consist of steel or plastic parts, although cast iron is still used for the production of industrial models and some household ones.

The main components of the submersible mechanism are a pump unit that pumps water and an electric motor that rotates a shaft with blades. The motor is housed inside a robust casing, which is made of stainless steel or reinforced polypropylene and is double. Water circulates between the outer and inner walls, preventing cooling.

Modern models are equipped with thermal protection that is triggered when the device is overloaded. An impeller is attached to the axial shaft - a screw device that supplies liquid to the inside of the housing. When the unit is turned on, the impeller begins to rotate, pick up water from the outside and push it along the walls to the outlet. The first portion of water is replaced by the next - and so on until the mechanism stops.

The float switch regulates the frequency of operation. It monitors the level of liquid in a reservoir or natural reservoir, when it drops sharply, it turns off the device in automatic mode.

As you can see, the device of the drainage pump is quite simple, and if you have ever disassembled and cleaned a submersible well pump, then you can handle this category of equipment as well. The faecal aggregate, which has an additional unit for crushing too large particles, is slightly different.

The submersible is useful for cleaning deep tanks, for example, a well that has just been commissioned. The first liquid that has accumulated in it cannot be called drinking, since there are many large inclusions of sand and clay.During the day, it is necessary to pump out the contaminated liquid so that clean, usable water comes in its place.

Unlike a submersible pump, a surface pump is not used for deep tanks; it is more suitable for pumping water from a pool or basement when it is flooded. A hose for receiving dirty water is placed at the bottom of the container, the second hose is used to drain the drains.

If the pump is used in an emergency, it is appropriate to use a float device that will control the critical level of water rise. The plus is that the design of the mechanism allows you to pump liquid with large pieces of dirt - up to 5 cm (less often - 10 cm).

It is clear that the surface type aggregate differs in its structure. A working shaft and a wheel are fixed inside the metal case, and the motor can be different: for centrifugal products - single-phase with external ventilation, for self-priming products - asynchronous two-pole.

Despite the contamination of the pumping medium, do not allow the pump to operate with a liquid in which gasoline, kerosene or other oil products and chemicals are dissolved.

Both new equipment and those that have served for more than one year can break down. A newly purchased device may fail due to a manufacturing defect made during assembly: a damaged piston or an incorrectly connected valve. Often breakdowns occur due to inept installation, if:

lowered the unit to an insufficient depth;
allowed air to enter the water intake compartment;
the water inlet is above the water and is not covered with liquid.

These flaws are easy to fix with a simple check, but it is better not to allow them.

Most often, problems arise during the operation of the equipment. The manufacturer sets the control parameters within which it is necessary to act (they are declared in the technical passport of the product). If the equipment is used incorrectly, not for its intended purpose, it simply will not withstand the load.

For example, it is normal for a drainage device to pump dirty water. This means that problems can arise if you start moving clean drinking water (for which borehole and well models are designed). On the contrary, too coarse dirt clogs the filters, as a result of which the pump stops working.

Also, troubles await if the equipment is idle, in "dry" mode - overheating will surely happen, which cannot always be corrected on your own. As a result of an oversight, the matter can end up in expensive service repairs.

Lack of prevention, rare technical inspections can also cause breakdown. Many troubles can be avoided by preventing them by replacing one of the parts or by elementary cleaning.

There are a number of possibilities to repair the equipment with your own hands, provided that the broken part can be replaced with a new one or a simple technical procedure (for example, cleaning) can be performed. To do this, you will have to disassemble the case, make diagnostics, identify the problem and select an identical part.

Available actions include replacing a capacitor, impeller or float, repairing an electrical cable, fixing a shock absorber, removing large pieces of clay and sand stuck inside the housing.

If the cast-iron body is cracked, the valve is out of order, or the winding has stopped functioning, you should contact the service center or think about buying a new pump. Inexpensive Chinese-made drainage devices are inexpensive, so ordering serious professional repairs is impractical.

The flexible element - the cable - is always at risk, since due to regular twists and kinks (which often happens during transportation and reinstallation of equipment), the wires under the layer of plastic or rubberized protection break, as a result of which the pump power is cut off.

It is necessary to find the break point and make the connection. This operation is easy to carry out if a break occurs near the plug - you just need to strip and connect the wires, finally carefully insulating the place of work.

A broken cable in the area where the pump is connected will take longer to repair. First you need to remove the equipment from the water, wipe and dry it, then disassemble it to get to the internal connection block. Get ready for the fact that instead of hexagonal holes you will encounter triple ones, which will make it difficult to select a screwdriver.

The cover should be removed carefully, without jerking or force. By unscrewing the bolts holding the tension member, you will be able to see the cable and identify the area of the break. We remove the worn-out piece, mount the cable in its original place, fasten the tensioning element, fix the bolts.

The engine is working properly, but the fluid has either stopped flowing altogether, or comes in in small, uneven jerks. There may be several reasons for the strange phenomenon:

Part of the supply line is clogged. This is a branch pipe or supply pipe. There is a kind of blockage from bundles of algae and pieces of clay. It is necessary to disconnect the pipes and clean them. It is possible that the pipe length is longer than the manufacturer's recommended length, and therefore there is not enough pressure to deliver the required power.
The impeller is worn out. Blades are bent or damaged. It is necessary to disassemble the device, replace parts, to begin with visually (as far as possible) determining the cause of the malfunction.
The fluid is saturated with dirt and debris. Therefore, the water has a thick consistency and is difficult to pump. We solve the problem by raising the suction hole a certain distance from the bottom, where sediment accumulates.
Engine power has noticeably decreased. That can be determined even by the sound. Possible malfunctions in the supply of electricity, failure of bearings, depressurization of the oil compartment. It is necessary to disassemble the case to clarify the cause of the breakdown and replace worn parts.

The most common problem is filter clogging. You can try running some clean water through the pump to clean the sieve and suction port. If this procedure does not help, disassemble the case and clean all chambers, removing pebbles, algae and chips.

When disassembling the unit, be sure to follow the manufacturer's diagrams or instructions. They will help to consistently remove parts, quickly find bolt attachment points. In some cases, wear on fasteners or loose nuts will cause parts to move, which will also affect the performance of the machine.

You connect the power supply - and the pump does not work, does not make noise and does not pump water. Prepare to inspect all equipment. The most common causes of engine failure are:

Disruption in the supply of electricity due to broken wires. We check the cable by touch and find the break point. If the emergency area is in the area of connection to the pump, proceed as described above.
The stator winding is out of order. Happens due to dry running. If you cannot replace it yourself, contact a specialist.
Seized bearing... We check the part for suitability, according to the results of diagnostics, we clean or replace it.
The suction device is clogged with debris. We clean the blades and grate, check the integrity of the operating elements and the mesh.
The float switch has broken. To check its functionality, it is necessary to close the relay. The problem may be in the wire connecting the float to the pump.

If the capacitor is out of order, replacement is required. In some models, special access is provided to it, which is a separate hole in the case.

When the pump is switched on to the network, it starts to work, however, after a while, it stops spontaneously. Most likely, a protective mechanism is triggered due to engine overheating.

A heating cable may be the cause. It is worth checking the correspondence of the mains voltage and the parameters set by the manufacturer. If the data does not match, you need to purchase a stabilizer.

Shutdown can also occur due to clogging of the blades with debris. In this case, we recommend that you carry out a complete cleaning procedure, that is, open the housing, clean the inner chambers and impeller, and check the filter.

If blockages occur frequently, re-read the instructions for the product to determine the size of the fractions. Perhaps the pump is not designed for pumping liquid with large particles of debris - only a fecal pump is suitable for grinding

When the pump is turned on, plugs fly out or wires burn out. The reason should be sought in the details directly responsible for the wiring of electricity - the cable or the stator winding. The serviceability of the wires can be checked using a tester; if a worn-out area is found, the entire cable should be replaced or (if the gap is near the end) shorten it.

Winding repair is a laborious task and requires special knowledge. Even with a neatly drawn secondary winding, a short circuit cannot be ruled out. If you have no time to fiddle with a burned-out part, take the device to a service center - perhaps, after diagnostics, they will advise you to buy a new pump.

As you can see, both inevitable wear and a violation of the rules for operating the equipment can become the cause of wear of parts. To make the device last longer, try to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. For example, position the body so that the suction device is at a certain distance from the base of the tank and does not pick up coarse particles.

At least once a year, check the integrity of the cable and internal parts by disassembling the case as much as possible. Perform preventive cleaning, which will increase the life of the parts by several times. Do not confuse a drainage device with a faecal one - it does not have a special grinder and cannot cope with the movement of large inclusions.

Videos from craftsmen will help you properly organize the disassembly of pumps of various brands and troubleshoot yourself.

Overheating of the stator due to violation of the interval operation mode:

Features of Pedrollo pump repair:

How to Repair the Whirlwind Sump Pump:

Gardena 4000/5 Comfort, as evidenced by reviews, is the most reliable station in the company's range. Consider the technical characteristics of this unit:

productivity - 3500 l / h;
delivery height - 45 m;
suction depth - 8 m;
pump power - 850 W;
the volume of the accumulator is 25 liters.

The advantages of the 4000/5 Comfort model include the presence of protection systems against overheating and prevention of dry running, a complete set with an LCD display, which displays information about the current operating mode of the pump (pressure, flow), as well as a built-in mechanical filter that removes sand from the water and impurities. Gardena 4000/5 Comfort is equipped with a hydraulic tank with two inlets, which allows you to connect a third-party pump to it. At the same time, it has the ability to operate the system with two pumps at the same time.

The only drawback of the 4000/5 Comfort station is the high noise level during operation, which reaches 90 dB. Most owners place this unit in a separate soundproofed room, which makes this problem uncritical. The price of the 4000/5 Comfort model is 17 thousand rubles.

Gardena 5000/5 Inox is the most powerful station in the entire range of pumping equipment of the Swedish company worth 24 thousand. It differs from the younger models 5000/5 Inox by a hydraulic accumulator made of stainless steel. However, in practice, this advantage is not particularly significant, since the water inside the tank is in the rubber membrane and does not come into contact with the walls of the tank.

Specifications 5000/5 Inox:

productivity - 4500 l / h;
delivery height - 50 m;
suction depth - 8 m;
pump power - 1200 W;
the volume of the accumulator is 24 liters.

Gardena 5000/5 Inox is IP-X4 certified, which guarantees no problems with dust and water entering its housing. Also, this model can operate in an energy-saving mode, in which the pump motor consumes 15% less electricity.
to the menu ↑

Despite the high quality and reliability of pumping stations from the Gardena company, no one is insured against equipment breakdowns during operation. Most often, repairs are required after the winter period, when the branch tee begins to flow.Do-it-yourself repair of this breakdown is possible, it is performed according to the following algorithm:

The pumping part of the station is disconnected from the hydraulic tank - initially the steel bracket is dismantled, after which the bolts on the back of the body are twisted.

Using a screwdriver, the pump is detached from the tank, you just need to bend the plastic locking hook.

The bolts on the pump casing are unscrewed, after which the casing is dismantled together with the sealing gasket.

From the opposite side of the pump, remove the plastic fan casing with side covers.

Now we have access to the insides of the unit, which allows us to repair and replace damaged components. First you need to remove the electronic control unit, which is held by plastic hooks, then the nut fixing the pressure gauge is unscrewed, the cracked bypass tube is dismantled and a new part is installed in its place.

The station is assembled according to points 1-4 in reverse order. Upon completion of the assembly, the station is connected and the replaced spare part is inspected for leaks.

Dismantling the pumping stationNote that there is no point in restoring any cracked parts of the case, since later they will still leak. It is rational to buy new spare parts, thereby saving a lot of time and effort.
to the menu ↑Best of all, the owners of this equipment will tell you about Gardena pumping stations.I took 5000/5 Inox for myself about 3 years ago, since then the station has been working properly, there have been no breakdowns. There is no need to change, since the power of the unit is sufficient, and in all other respects the model suits - I did not find significant shortcomings. Recommend.Gardena 3000/4 Classic Eco is an ideal pump for a small summer cottage: powerful, does not make noise, does not break, has low energy consumption. I don’t regret buying, 13 thousand for such a technique is a penny.When moving to a country house or summer cottage, you will certainly need to take care of the level of comfort. First of all, you need to create or establish a water supply system that will effectively perform its main functions. The creation of such a system is costly, because the initial investment is quite high when compared with connecting to general water supply networks. The savings will show themselves in the not too distant future, as there will be no water charges.Having your own pumping station means not only saving money, but also additional obligations imposed on the owner. Repair and periodic maintenance of the system will not take long, so the homeowner should be aware of how DIY pump station repair.Like the human body without a heart, a water supply system cannot function without a pumping station. Any autonomous water supply system must be connected to a well capable of providing a certain area with the required amount of water.People living in private houses extract water with the help of pumps, since the depth of wells can sometimes reach several tens of meters. The pumping station serves to maintain constant pressure in the water supply system and to pump liquid from one place to another.An average pumping station has three main components, namely:

pumping device;

hydroaccumulator;

automation unit.

Now let's look at each element in more detail.Water supply stations are most often equipped with surface pumps, whose names indicate their location. They are installed in specially equipped xenons, or inside living quarters. Pumps with a fairly high power are used, since it is necessary to raise water from wells and transport it to the house. Image - DIY gardena pump repair

A small device is enough to service one house.

A pressure accumulator (also called a pressure accumulator) is a metal device whose purpose is to maintain a certain pressure level on a constant basis. The most popular is the model, which is a small metal balloon with an elastic membrane inside. During operation, the rubber membrane deforms to a certain point. When the work is stopped, it returns to its original position, while displacing the liquid from the cylinder.

Accumulator device

It is intended for the timely termination of the device. It works like this:

pressure drops to a certain point;
the relay starts to work;
the pump comes into play, and the accumulator begins to fill with water;
when the optimum pressure is reached, the operation of the device is suspended.

As you have already noticed, a pumping station is a combination of components and assemblies, the operation of which is possible separately. In most cases, all the main units of the unit are installed on one bodyhowever, there are also models in which the pumping device is mounted on a pressure accumulator. The automatic control device is also located on one housing.

Automation unit for the pump

During the entire warranty period, there are practically no problems with equipment during operation. But this does not mean at all that you will not have to face the need to troubleshoot various nodes.With a long operating period, any part of the mechanism can break down, so you need to be prepared for everything that happens. Let's take a look at the possible causes of the breakdown and the options for fixing these problems.

Even the most reliable mechanism is not eternal, this also applies to the pumping station. There are many breakdowns due to which the work is disrupted or stops altogether. The most common ones are:

the membrane tank is broken;
broken pump;
there is no liquid in the system;
the automatic block is damaged;
no electricity and others.

The simplicity of the design of domestic pumping stations allows you to carry out diagnostic and repair work on your own. Sometimes it is enough just to replace a non-working part. In some cases, it is necessary to renew the sealing in the tank by gluing the crack, and sometimes even to determine the flow of electricity to the mechanism. Each specific case boils down to a single question - why does the pumping station not pump water and how can the resulting problem be solved? In case of unsuccessful attempts to identify the optimal solution, it makes sense to seek help from specialists.

How is the repair carried out

We will analyze in detail all the common problems in the work, the possible reasons for their appearance and the options for quickly eliminating them with our own hands, without the help of specialists.

Water has stopped flowing, and the pump impeller is operating normally. If such a disaster happened to your station, then read the following recommendations.

There are several possible reasons, one of which is a malfunction of the automation unit. Its main unit is considered to be a pressure gauge (this is a special device that measures pressure). The pressure gauge needle will make sharp movements from wall to wall of the pressure gauge during such inadequate jerky operation.

Damage to the membrane may well become the main cause of malfunction of the station components. The operation of the membrane in the accumulator was mentioned earlier.

The diaphragm can only be reached through a nipple installed at the back of the pump housing. Press lightly on the nipple and you can feel the air flow from it. Well, if instead of air you see a trickle of water, then it is necessary to replace the membrane of the accumulator. To do this, you will need to disassemble the battery case.

What does a pear look like in a hydraulic accumulator

Another, albeit rather rare, reason is that the automatic control unit has broken down. In this case, only a complete replacement of the device will help.

Intermittent water transfer is most likely due to air entering the piping. Air ingress most often occurs in the section between the inlet and suction branch pipes of the device. Troubleshooting can be done in only one way - you need to ensure the complete tightness of all pipelines, including connections. If possible, lower the suction port slightly lower in relation to the ground.

The most probable reasons for such a nuisance include an unregulated switch designed to fix the pressure level. The pressure switch adjustment procedure can be carried out by changing the position of the two springs - small and large.

It is mounted on a relay and is designed to equalize the pressure between the minimum and maximum.

This spring is installed on the relay to create limits for the system to be energized or deactivated.

Pressure switch device

During operation, the operation of the springs can be disrupted due to their premature expansion. As a result, the initially established indicators go astray. In addition, with prolonged operation, there is a risk of wear on the moving parts of the pump, due to which the pressure readings drop.

Possible reasons for the failure of the control relay include a decrease in the size of the hole in the relay, it is also called "output". The constriction occurs due to deposits in the well water. Clean the relay and the problem will go away by itself.

The pumping station is powered by electrical energy, the absence or fall of which will undoubtedly cause the device to stop working. Using an electrical tester, check the voltage level.

In the absence of interruptions in the operation of electricity, you need to look for the cause of the malfunction elsewhere. In this case, it is a violation of the winding in an electric motor. The presence of breakdowns in the winding is accompanied by a stop of the motor and the appearance of a burning smell (insulating materials have begun to melt). Only a complete replacement of the electric motor will help to solve such a malfunction.

With pumps that have been idle for a long time, this problem can occur. This is due to the fact that due to downtime, moving parts have become jammed over time (for example, stuck or rusted). Try to start the locked impeller with your own hands. If everything worked out and you managed to crank it, great, but if not, disassemble the pump and solve the jam problem.

Burning out a capacitor can cause similar "symptoms". It is installed in the terminal box of the unit. To identify and eliminate this malfunction, you will need an electrical tester.

Do not forget that adjusting the relay is very serious - this is a delicate procedure that must be treated with extreme caution. One minor adjustment error can damage the entire system, which means wasted time and money for repairs. In addition, the warranty does not provide for damage to the unit in such cases.

How the pressure switch is adjusted

Initially, it is necessary to achieve the optimal pressure in the accumulator. This can be done by disconnecting the pumping station from the power supply and draining all the accumulated liquid in the tank. Now, using a special compressor with a sensor, create an optimal pressure level in it. Then remove the cover over the relay, while still gaining full access to the small and large adjustment spring.

Setting the minimum pressure is achieved by turning the large spring: to increase the indicator - clockwise, to decrease it - counterclockwise.

As you can see, you can deal with most of the faults with your own hands, without resorting to the help of specialists. This will save you money and, most importantly, give you a new experience with pumping stations.

Video (click to play).