A very helpful article! And although I have a Hyundai H1 4x4 Starex 4WD, I think that these tips are very, very useful to me. My Gur is stuck (most likely - the bearing). Disassembled. As soon as I find a bearing and a repair kit for it, I will collect it. Wish I saw this article before. I had to suffer with unscrewing the return hose from the fitting. It was only necessary to put a wrench on the lower part of the fitting, and unscrew the upper one.
Very helpful article. I myself am now suffering with gur Ford EXP3 4.6. And howls and tight ... to sort out nodo ... There is already a mess in my head from studying and generally searching for information ....
The purpose of the power steering is to provide more comfortable steering wheel control. Today, the power steering system is installed on the Gazelle and on many modern cars. You can learn more about the device, malfunctions and unit repair at home from this material.
Both the electric power steering on the Gazelle and the power steering are designed for more comfortable steering. First, let's take a look at the power steering device on the Gazelle. We are talking about both the Gazelle Business with a 405 engine and other models of this line.
Like any unit, the power steering can fail from time to time.
As you might have guessed from the previous paragraph, if the power steering on the Gazelle does not work, then this is due to the pump. To repair this element in a car with your own hands, you will need to purchase a repair kit in advance. You can buy it at any thematic store. The main difficulty in repair is that the pump is not collapsible.
To facilitate control of the Sable, the manufacturer installs a hydraulic booster. If you have difficulties in repairing Sobol power steering with your own hands, our video will tell you quick and effective ways to restore the power steering.
If the owner noticed that the gur pump does not work, further repair of the unit on Sobol should begin with determining the reasons for the failure. The main ones are described below, as well as recovery options.
For further repair of the power steering pump quickly with your own hands, our video will always be useful. The wizard gives detailed explanations, and also shows the sequence of actions when repairing power steering on Sobol.
VIDEO
The power steering pump is removed for replacement or repair.
Defects of the hydraulic steering pump:
- wear of the pump bearings (constant noise from the pump side);
- the flow and safety valve do not work due to contamination (there is an increased pressure in the system);
- fluid flow through the technological holes in the pump casing (the plugs have been squeezed out);
- fluid leaks from under the pump covers.
If the steering wheel turns hard to either side, the pump is defective.
Pumps can be supplied as spare parts with hose fittings or without fittings.
1. Lift and support the front of the car.
2. Remove the engine mudguard
3. We drain the fluid from the power steering system (see the article - Changing the oil in the GAZ-2705 power steering
4. Remove the accessory drive belt (see the article - Replacing the accessory drive belt
5. We loosen the tightening of the clamp of the upper pump hose
6. Disconnect the upper hose
7. We unscrew the nut of the fitting of the lower hose, holding the nut with the second wrench
8. Move the hose away from the pump.
9. Remove the two bolts securing the pump
11. If you need to remove the bracket, then unscrew the three bolts of its fastening
Install the pump and all removed parts in reverse order
After installation, we fill the system with hydraulic fluid and pump the system.
I will tell you how I repaired the power steering pump. But first, a little background.
The steering wheel on a cold car in summer and winter works flawlessly. But as soon as the car warms up, especially in the summer, the steering wheel on the XX becomes very tight, as if the power steering is not there. In winter, this problem does not manifest itself so strongly, but it is still present. If you put it on the gas, the steering wheel immediately turns with ease (though not quite ideal, but still lighter). At the same time, the pump does not knock, does not ring, nor leaks, etc ... (do not take the snotty rail into account) the oil is fresh and perfect (especially, thanks to the state of the rail, it is updated regularly!), The cardan is lubricated and does not wedge!
In general, on the face of the sign of the lack of performance of the power steering pump with hot oil at XX. I didn't suffer for a long time, in the end I decided to deal with this problem, spent a lot of time, rummaged through the Internet, understood the principle of the pump, found a similar description and decided to sort out my "old" pump.
And so, first of all, we remove the pump, it is necessary to drain all the slurry from it (how to remove it and drain the liquid, I think everyone will figure it out), also, on the back cover of the power steering, you need to unscrew four bolts with a 14 head.
After we begin to carefully remove the cover, try not to damage the gasket (this gasket with an internal rubber seal), in the power steering body we leave the outer part of the "working ellipse cylinder" (hereinafter simply the cylinder). There is no need to be scared when the lid moves away from the case, it may seem that it is moving away due to the influence of the spring, during reassembly it will seem to you that it does not fit into place, just continue to carefully and alternately tighten the bolts diagonally, then everything will fall into place ...
Carefully inspect the contents and remember (you can take a photo) what stood where and how (more attention should be paid to the position of the cylinder). You can twist the power steering pulley and gently check with tweezers how the blades move in the grooves of the shaft.
All parts should be pulled out without effort, since they do not have any fixations, but the central axis is fixed rigidly, it cannot be removed.
We inspect the shaft from the back side, parts (power steering body and cover wall) touching them, for scoring or grooves, everything is perfect for me.
Now we take out the entire internal economy on "clean" rags and begin to study it.
We carefully examine the shaft, all its grooves have very sharp edges on all sides. One of the end sides of each groove has a pronounced sharpening inward, which, when the blade moves inside the groove with a constant slope to this side, will greatly complicate its movement (this may be the first component of the poor operation of the power steering). The lateral parts of the grooves of the shaft are also "sharpened", this can be felt if you slide your finger in different directions along the end (outer circumference), as well as along the lateral parts of the shaft in different directions. The rest of the shaft is perfect, does not have any flaws and notches.
The faults were found, now we are starting to eliminate them.
We need a rag, white alcohol, sandpaper with a grit of P1000 / P1500 / P2000, a triangular file, a 12mm drill (or more) and an electric drill. With the shaft, everything is much simpler, you need a P1500 sandpaper and we begin to clean all the edges of the grooves on the shaft (we clean the outer and lateral on both sides) in all possible ways. We work without fanaticism, the main task is to remove only sharp burrs.
For one thing, you can immediately polish both sides of the shaft on a flat surface, it is advisable to use P2000 sandpaper.
Next, you need to check the result of our work, check it visually and by touch, everything is perfectly smooth and does not cling.
The most difficult thing will have to do with the surface of the cylinder, I personally have nothing simpler, I have not figured out how to make a spherical grinder from a skin, a drill and a thick drill (F12). To begin with, we take a P1000 skin and such a drill, which can be crammed into a drill.
Next, you need to tightly wind the skin against the rotation of the drill, in two or three turns, there should be no gaps.
Holding the tightly twisted structure, you need to insert it into the drill (clamp the skin too).
Then, in the most convenient ways for you, we carefully begin to grind the cylinder, you need to grind evenly, press the cylinder tightly and move it relative to the axis of rotation (at maximum speed). As we eat the skin, we change it, eventually we reach the smallest skin P2000.
The desired result is obtained,
now everything needs to be carefully wiped with a path with white alcohol. The shaft itself with blades can be rinsed in it.
After we start the assembly, everything is put in the reverse order of removal.
Today we will pay special attention to the power steering, intended for installation on Gazelle cars. In today's article, we will take a closer look at the repair of the Gazelle power steering. So, the presented article contains answers to such fairly common questions:
What is a power steering?
How does the power steering work?
What is the repair of the hydraulic booster?
How to properly replace the power steering fluid on a Gazelle car?
How is the repair of the power steering pump on a Gazelle car correctly carried out?
Power steering, or, as it is abbreviated as power steering, is the hydraulic system of the vehicle, part of the steering mechanism, which is designed to facilitate the direction of movement of the vehicle while maintaining the necessary feedback, as well as to ensure the stability of functioning and the unambiguity of the specified trajectory. In addition, the power steering is designed in such a way that in the event of its failure, the steering wheel will function, but the steering wheel in this case will turn a little harder. Power steering is one of the most important elements of steering any vehicle. The main purpose of the power steering is to create side forces at the time of steering wheel rotation due to the presence of an electric drive. Almost all modern vehicles are equipped with power steering.
Experienced motorists highlight several main advantages of the power steering on Gazelle cars, such as:
High level of reliability;
High information content;
Low fuel consumption;
Ease of adjusting the technical specifications of the manual.
The main disadvantages of the hydraulic booster for Gazelle cars include:
Great cost;
Complexity of establishment;
Significant changes in the steering system of the vehicle;
Needs regular maintenance.
How is the power steering for Gazelle cars arranged?
Pump. Thanks to this device, the circulation of the working fluid and pressure is ensured.
Steering gearbox with distributor. With its help, an air flow is provided, which directs the oil into the required cylinder cavity or back into the tank.
Cylinder.With the help of the cylinder, the fluid pressure is converted into the movement of the piston and rod.
Oil that transfers power from the pump to the cylinder and also lubricates all friction pairs.
The power steering oil needs to be changed periodically, and the frequency of replacement depends on the condition of the steering wheel, the characteristics of the fluid, and the brand of the steering wheel. That is, when the steering wheel turns hard or you hear noise when cornering, you need to add a little or completely replace the power steering fluid. It is necessary to change the fluid in the hydraulic booster almost every sixty thousand kilometers, this is a partial repair of the hydraulic booster, so to speak. So, how to replace the fluid in the power steering on a Gazelle car?
Due to active use and heavy loads, it is often necessary to repair the power steering pump. The complexity of the repair lies only in the fact that the power steering pump for a Gazelle car cannot be disassembled, which means that it does not have any covers or retaining rings, but pump repair is still real. First you need to remove and disassemble the power steering pump according to the instructions that come with the kit. After that, you need to thoroughly clean it from dirt and dust, and also inspect it to find the cause of the breakdown. The cause of the breakdown may be the wear of the oil seal, in which case it must be replaced. When installing the oil seal, it may be necessary to modify the roller.
There are several ways to secure the new bearing to the pump structure. You can make a recess on the outside of the bearing, drill threaded holes in the pump wall, install a new bearing and secure it with sharpened bolts. Alternatively, you can mount the bearing in the middle of the power steering pump using the folded edges of the housing. After the repair is completed, you need to assemble the power steering pump in the reverse order. Please note that after the repair, new parts may create some noise, but this is just grinding in new parts. Be sure to replace the power steering fluid after repairs.
VIDEO
Repairing the power steering is a difficult task, and the work is painstaking. The article is intended for those motorists who are familiar with the structure of the main systems of the car.
Many probably know how to remove the power steering from the car and install it back at the end of the work. Where do you start?
1. Clean the dirt from the power steering so that it does not end up in the cavities of the unit when the hoses are disconnected.
2. Pump out as much fluid from the pump reservoir as possible (preferably more).
3. Taking the hexagon "6", unscrew the steering shaft coupling screws from the bottom of the machine. Do not forget to mark its position with the roll relative to the power steering shaft before doing this.
4. Slide the elastic sleeve off the slots using a pry bar.
5. Disconnect the tie rods from the bipod with a puller.
6. Unscrew the car and remove the left front wheel.
7. Taking the socket wrench to "15", loosen from the side of the wheel arch three bolts securing the hydraulic booster to the side member, removing two of them.
8. Place a container under the hose fittings and disconnect them one by one to glass the liquid.
9. Seal the hoses and fittings at least with a rag.
10. Holding the hydraulic booster under the machine with one hand, unscrew the remaining bolt and do not drop the gearbox on your foot.
11. Before disassembling the gearbox, wash it thoroughly.
VIDEO
Many experts strongly recommend re-reading the articles on power steering specifically for your car. Some hydraulic boosters are disassembled almost completely, with the exception of the pair "ball nut - steering shaft screw", others - it is better not to touch. Although even if you accidentally unscrew the screw from the nut, and the balls fell into the cavity of the gearbox, just do not lose them.
Steps for repairing the power steering:
one.To disassemble the part, take a very strong hexagon at "6", as well as a regular old tray, into which ATF will begin to merge.
2. First remove the plugs from the fitting and lift the power steering over the bucket, rotating the bipod to drain the liquid.
3. Next, remove the bipod shaft and unscrew the four bolts set on the fixing mastic, and therefore it is rather difficult to unscrew.
4. Unscrew the adjusting screw locknut, and then, turning the screw, screw it into the gearbox to push the shaft along with the gearbox cover and bipod.
5. If you do not need to eliminate the backlash of the bipod shaft or replace the collar, then this bipod can be left alone and not removed. Unscrew the check valve plug.
6. Remove the spring and shake out the valve.
7. Unscrew the cover bolts and, carefully turning the shaft, make sure that it slightly pushes the cover out of the body. Be careful not to unscrew the shaft from the ball nut.
8. Pry up the formed gap and pull the shaft together with the cover and the piston out of the gearbox.
9. Remove the ball nut by unscrewing the shaft and collecting the balls.
10. Loosen the locknut and unscrew the bearing.
11. Remove the nut housing and bearings from the piston housing. Next, disassemble the nut by bending the bolt lock. Unscrew them, remove the bracket, as well as both parts of the ball duct channel.
12. We are looking for the cause of the breakdown. There can be several reasons for the power steering backlash: the gaps in the shaft-ball nut pair, in the shaft bearing unit (in the cover), as well as in the ball nut bearing unit in the piston housing itself.
13. Adjust clearances. They were formed, by the way, due to the banal weakening of the threaded connections that hold the bearing assemblies. If a backlash is found in the shaft-cap assembly, then release the locknut and tighten it so that the backlash disappears, but without fanaticism. Do not forget to carry out the "operation" clean, that is, the cleaned part should shine.
If you are doing this work for the first time, then do not be lazy to get detailed drawings of the power steering or take sheets of paper and put each spare part on a separate piece of paper, putting a number on it. It is ideal to work at a large table. So you will definitely not lose anything and collect the power steering without mistakes, but they do not joke with the steering wheel, because this is your safety on the road, as well as your loved ones.
14. Assemble the gearbox in the reverse order, remembering to lubricate the parts with ATFkoy.
Good luck, motorists, in repairing the power steering!
VIDEO
For a long time, units of the power steering system of the Belarusian production of the Avtogidroutilitel plant in the city of Borisov have been installed on domestically produced cars. It is the main supplier to GAZ and UAZ plants. In addition to the Borisov hydraulic boosters, units from other manufacturers were installed on domestic cars. For example, a power steering gearbox manufactured in the Russian city of Sterlitamak (for Sobol, Gazelles and UAZs), power steering pumps manufactured in the Russian city of Yelets. There are also imported units - ZF, Delphi and some joint ventures.
All of these manufacturers have a slightly different set of typical faults. Therefore, when diagnosing the power steering on cars, you must first find out the manufacturer of the units.
When diagnosing a power steering, you need to formulate what specifically does not suit the system:
Next - collect information about the symptoms:
1.1 tight handlebars in one or both directions
After that, some conclusions can be drawn:
2.1.1 the sound can come directly from the steering wheel - hiss or hum - the gearbox is to blame, or from under the hood - the gearbox is not to blame, then we read the further paragraphs
3. Power steering system leaks are determined visually - the pump is flowing, the hose is flowing, the gearbox is flowing. Cases when oil is thrown out of the tank are associated with a pump malfunction (air leaks through the pump oil seal)
4. The steering wheel is too light, especially if it tries to turn it all the way, if it is pushed. At the same time, on the muffled engine, there is a large backlash of the steering wheel - a breakdown of the torsion bar in the power steering gearbox
In all cases of difficult diagnostics, when it is difficult to make a choice - which unit is faulty, it is necessary to use instrumental diagnostics, namely, to measure the pressure and fluid flow in the system.
To do this, a pressure gauge with a tap is connected to the system, which measures pressure up to 200 atmospheres. Start the engine. By turning the rudder, you can measure the pressure created in the system when the overlap creates the reducer. If this pressure is below the nominal (look-up table at the end of the article), then this means that either the pump does not develop the required pressure, or the reducer does not shut off properly.
To distinguish between a gearbox malfunction and a pump, the valve on the line is closed and the maximum pump pressure is measured. If the maximum pressure of the pump is normal, then it is concluded that the reducer does not overlap and that it is defective. If the maximum pump pressure is below normal, then the pump is to blame.
Diagnostics of the power steering with your own hands
If there is no pressure gauge, and it is not clear what is faulty - the pump is under-pumping or the gearbox does not overlap, then the folk method can be used.
Two are involved. On a muffled machine, one person finds a return hose going from the gearbox to the drain (to the tank). It's soft. You need to squeeze it with your hand. After that, the motor starts up and it is felt that a fluid flow has appeared in the return hose.
Further, the other person begins to rotate the steering wheel all the way, thereby blocking the flow with the gearbox.
If pulsations are felt in the return hose until the flow stops completely, then the reducer closes, and the pump is to blame, which does not develop the proper pressure.
If the flow in the return hose does not stop, then the reducer is to blame - it does not block.
Motorists know how much nerve is wasted when power steering problems appear. The steering wheel behaves strangely and turns much more difficult at idle or low revs. A whistling sound is heard from the pump bearing.Leakage of working fluid onto the engine or onto the road at the location of the unit. The rotation of the steering shaft is accompanied by extraneous sounds.
These inconveniences can affect not only the nervous health of the driver, but also driving safety. What to do if the pump shows symptoms of malfunctioning? How to replace this power steering part? Is it possible and how to carry out the repair work yourself? We will tell you more about everything below.
The manifestations of pump breakdowns described above, in reality, may not be associated with the pump itself. Therefore, first you need to carefully examine the entire power steering system. And only if the problem is not found, start working with the pump itself.
Faults are divided into two types:
mechanical damage and wear. These include burrs, bearing problems, bumps in the interior, wear on the gasket, etc .;
hydraulic problems. Associated with insufficient fluid levels, improper fluid selection and aging. The ingress of debris into the system can also lead to the appearance of "symptoms", and, in the future, to breakdown. Banal airing refers to the same type of malfunction.
The former can only be determined by disassembling the power steering pump and inspecting each of its components. As for the second type of malfunctions, first of all, you need to answer the questions - how much time has passed since the fluid in the system was changed? Was the fluid selected according to the instructions? Is its level sufficient? And in case of airing, it is often enough to pump the hydraulics to restore the power steering.
In any case, manufacturers recommend doing a full bulkhead and cleaning if any problems arise with the pump. This will help reduce the likelihood of wear and therefore increase the life of the entire system.
The repair is conventionally divided into several stages: preparation, dismantling of the pump, preliminary inspection, replacement of parts and / or elimination of damage, reassembly and installation.
To carry out repairs you will need: tools; rags; comfortable, spacious and clean place. Of the tools you will need:
keys and heads;
circlip puller;
a large syringe and a container for pumping liquid from the tank;
fine sandpaper P1000 / 1500/2000, file.
For repair you will need: a repair kit from a car dealer, or to replace it with washers, a gasket, O-rings and an oil seal. A suitable working bearing can also come in handy if that's the case.
First you need to dismantle the power steering pump. Then disassemble and inspect each component of the unit for damage, and then repair them. If the malfunction cannot be corrected, then from the next paragraph you will learn how to replace the pump by dismantling it and installing a new one.
Disconnecting the power steering pump and disassembling it is a painstaking process, so the first thing to do is to take more time for this process and stock up on nerves.
List of actions for direct dismantling:
We drain all the liquid, armed with a syringe and a container.
Disconnect the hose from the tank to the pump.
Unscrew the tensioner locking nut completely and remove the belt.
Disconnect the high pressure hose.
We remove the pump and clean it from dirt with water and a rag.
We put it on a pre-prepared clean place.
Remove the bearing circlip with a puller.
Unscrew the fixing screws from the rear cover.
Remove it by prying it with a small screwdriver, but so that the rotor blades do not fall out. To fully control the process, it is necessary to remember the sequence of disassembly. This can be done using a camera or you can define a separate place for each part with a note in which order the parts were removed.
Remove the blades separately.
Pull out the plate and the parts underneath.
Knock out the shaft carefully.
Press out the bearing.
This is the third stage in which you need to determine where and what happened to the pump. To do this, you should:
clean all parts with a rag and carefully examine each;
eliminate all defects and roughness;
change the repair kit if the old one has become unusable;
do the same with the bearing, if it is in it.
If you notice burrs and roughness that appear as a result of wear, we remove them with sandpaper. Polishing allows you to remove gaps between parts and restore tightness. It is also used as a preventative measure to keep the pump clean and in working order.
Special attention should be paid to the rotor and polish it properly if there are burrs ... It is problematic to do this, since you need good skill. Here, in addition to sandpaper, a small screwdriver will help, wrapping a sheet of sandpaper around which, you can get into the “most inaccessible places”.
Summing up all that has been said, after disassembly, repairs are carried out in several ways, depending on the breakdown. These are: bearing replacement; replacement of a repair kit; removal of burrs, roughness and unevenness; complete cleaning of the pump from wear and tear elements.
The assembly and installation of the pump in the car is carried out in the reverse order. When the installation process is complete, use the information from the last paragraph, and you will not have to repeat the procedure described in this article for a very long time.
Do not forget that repairing the power steering pump with your own hands can lead to additional damage. Therefore, carrying out this procedure, you need to do everything with the utmost care so as not to aggravate and not completely break the pump.
In conclusion, it is necessary to touch upon the topic of prevention. To reduce the risk of power steering malfunctions, simple rules should be followed:
use only the liquid recommended by the manufacturer;
monitor cleanliness - do not allow debris to enter the tank;
timely change the fluid and monitor its level.
This will ensure stable operation of both the pump and the entire hydraulic booster system.
Video (click to play).
VIDEO
Remove the axle bolt that secures the pump to the bracket and replace it with a screwdriver or a metal rod of a suitable diameter in order to lock the pulley. Then unscrew the nut that secures the pump pulley.
