Do-it-yourself gur Ford Mondeo 3 pump repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a gur ford mondeo 3 pump from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

It happens that the camera would be guamno about everything would be different

Hello, does the oil seal fit? Did you put it on the outside of the sealant? Size 15-30-8 is mandatory, or 15-30-7 will go, there is no oil seal like yours, everything is sold out))))) There is sorteco 15-30-7 and 16-30-8 which is better?

I would not deviate from the parameters set by the factory, put it outside on a sealant just in case for safety reasons, the depth of the value will not play.

Searching for Gold with a Metal Detector, Your sizes are 15-30-8, some put 16-30-8. What is better for the shaft, the internal size is 15 or 16 or no difference? And the depth of 7 or 8 is not critical, I think.

Hello, I won't say exactly in size, there is no oil seal at hand now, the oil seal is one to one from the gearshift rod of the VAZ 2108-15 only at the eight-shaft oil seal the working edge works differently, but it sweats anyway, but the oil seals are in the video go fine so far, I would then put an eight-point good if there is no original or a substitute.

Mondeo has green liquid from the factory in gur, why are you pouring red？

Hi, it was red, that's why it was pouring red, as far as I know antifreeze is green, but I could be wrong

good video, will help many, tell me how to remove the fitting from the tube? will it work without a special tool?

Hi, I apologize for not answering for a long time, there is no time at all ((((you can try to pull very hard with your hands), it can pull out, at least it is removed from me, but in general it is better to order a new plug, and the old one was carefully cut down with a grinder, then you will surely not damage anything

They did everything the same, but the gur stopped working, what shenanigans with him did not make everything even. I ordered a new one. The oil in it was killed and worked on it, but refused to use the new one. People say if you eat the oil .. or it’s better not to change it.

Video (click to play).

If you lived closer, you would take a look at what can be done, but you don't want to contact the mail

Yes, everything seems to be fine, but it does not work. Today I inserted the valve evenly for everyone. I'm waiting for a new one.

Also, look at the shoulder blades in landing, they walk normally, otherwise it became very interesting

So, I decided to disassemble the power steering. It took me a whole day. I arrived at the garage at 9-30, left at 20-00. But this time includes 2 hours of waiting until the TORX 40 key is delivered to me. The pressure line is attached to the power steering with a bolt with such a head, I did not pay attention to it right away, as a result I lost time for this, it's good that not all shops are closed on Sundays.

1. We put anti-rollbacks under the rear wheels, jack the right front wheel, remove it, put supports under the body, remove the jack.

2. Remove the right front wheel arch liner. There are no pitfalls, everything is simple.

3. Remove the belt. To do this, take the head at 15 and the crank. Place the tension roller on the bolt, pull clockwise and remove the belt. It's simple, I easily coped with this and put it on too without any questions, without any clamps there, if necessary, you can put a piece of pipe on the knob to increase the lever.

4. I immediately wanted to replace the belt. Since a pebble got into the video and cut off one stream on it.

So gobbled up the stream on the belt

But after I removed the video to remove this pebble, it turned out that the bearing on it had already been broken, the backlash was simply unacceptable. But since I didn’t have a roller or a bearing, I had to leave this venture for later, and I didn’t put a new belt on either.

Idler roller with bad polish bearing 6203 2RS

Idler with excellent Canadian bearing 6203 2RS

Separately, it is necessary to criticize Ford for choosing bad suppliers of components.The bearing on this roller was from a well-known Japanese company NSK, but made in Poland. Guys, the bearing should last at least twice as long, but not 85000 km. In short, anrespect for Polish bunglers! By the way, on the bypass roller (I also took it off for inspection) there is a bearing from the well-known Japanese company NTN, but made in Canada. This is what I understand, zero backlash, excellent, as it should be. Bearings in both rollers are the same 6203 2RS.

6. We pump out the slurry from the barrel using a sprayer, which is screwed onto the bottle and costs 20 rubles in the store.

Then we remove the hoses from the power steering reservoir and remove the reservoir itself. Everyone writes that the plastic fitting-corner of the return hose can be removed easily, but I was worn out with it, apparently everything in it was so stiff that I barely took it off.

7. Remove the feed hose from the power steering itself.

8. Loosen the three bolts of the power steering. We unscrew the bolt securing the pressure line and disconnect the line tube from the power steering. Attention! Need 40 TORX key!

9. Finally unscrew the power steering bolts to the engine and remove the power steering from under the hood.

10. We disassemble the power steering. Unscrew the 4 bolts securing the cover,

gently tap the lid with a hammer until it moves away from the body, remove the lid. We contemplate the insides of the pump.

We note right away that there is abnormal wear on the cover. We draw a finger along this place, if burrs are felt, then we remove them with a file.

Now we are looking for this ill-fated valve. Look at the picture.

It can be seen that it really stuck open, that is, the bypass hole is clearly located at the bypass hole of the drain line.

11. Remove the plug of this valve. To do this, it is better to temporarily screw the pump cover back so that dirt does not get inside, and so that the insides do not end up on the floor. The valve plug is unscrewed with a 22 key. We put the key and gently hit it with a hammer until the bolt moves. By the way, in my opinion, the designers placed this valve unsuccessfully - if its plug were sticking out, then the valve could be revived without removing the power steering. That is, literally a few minutes. And the plug that we see on top of the power steering, on which it is advised to knock, there is a spring supporting the pump stator. Therefore, knocking on it is useless. So, we removed the plug, we see the plunger inside, we try to push it with our finger - it does not go, because it is jammed.

Stuck valve plug

We take a suitable piece of iron and tap on the plunger, it will wedge quickly enough.

Plunger in normal (closed) state

We take out the plunger and examine it. There are several holes in his body through which the slurry flows. If you run your fingers over them, you will feel burrs at the edges of these holes. This is the reason for the jamming! While there was a liquid, the plunger slid inside the valve, as soon as air entered, there was no lubricant, the burr cut into the wall of the channel and the plunger jammed. Next to one of the holes we see wear - there is no burr, everything is smooth, because it has worn out itself in the process of work and such a mark remains, and this means that the shavings went into the slurry with wear and settled on the filter in the tank.

Plunger. Scuffing along the edge of the hole is the result of self-grinding of the burr

In this regard, I am perplexed, why the hell weren't the burrs removed after drilling the holes in the production of this part? This is not even a marriage, it is either a violation of the production technology, or the technology was developed incorrectly, the stupidly petty process engineer forgot to add this operation to the flow chart, and now all the power steering pumps come with this joint. In short, wherever a roughness is felt with a finger, we grind it carefully with a file, lubricate the plunger with Mercon, insert it into the valve body and check the stroke of the plunger. Must walk very easily. We collect the valve.

12. Then I decided, since I had disassembled the power steering, it was necessary to look at all its insides. Admire. The plug, which is visible from above the power steering when you open the hood, under it is just a spring that supports the pump stator.Because the stator is not exactly a stator, but floating. That is, the size of the injection chamber can vary.

The plug on top of the pump only gives access to the backing spring. It's useless to knock here.

This is necessary for the stator to smoothly change its eccentricity relative to the rotor during operation of the pump; accordingly, the volume of the pressure chamber changes, thus regulating the pressure generated. In short, it is an automatic pressure regulator.

Some parts of the pump.

Some parts are missing in this photo. For example, the insides of the valve: you have already seen the plunger, and of course there is also a spring. Two more obvious details are the pulley and bearing. Perhaps there is nothing else there.

13. Putting everything together in the reverse order. Important note. Keep clean. All the insides of the power steering are precision parts, that is, they are made with special precision, they love cleanliness and liquidity. Before assembly, generously lubricate all the parts with Mercon, well, or with green slurry, depending on what you pour. Put a couple of drops into the opening of the bypass valve.

14. Now let's move on to the tank. The pictures show how I implemented it. The suction hose came up without any problems, but the return line does not fit, or rather, it might have climbed, but I was afraid that it might start cracking later. Therefore, I bought a metal adapter-fitting with a diameter of 10 mm and a piece of high-pressure hose also for 10 mm, well, and clamps. This hose, too, of course, with difficulty put on, but then it is easy to replace it if that. By the way, I did without a corner, since this hose bends enough without kinking.

The junction of the return hose with a piece of hose going to the drain connection barrel.

Mounting the tank is generally nowhere easier. I bought a thick plastic tie and pulled it to the standard bracket. I inserted a piece of cardboard between the tank and the bracket. In principle, everything looks like it should be, only the tank is slightly crooked, because the supply hose is slightly short and pulls the tank towards itself from below.

I decided to remove the power steering pump and sort it out, as it made very sad sounds during operation.
To remove the power steering pump you need:
1. Remove the front right wheel
2. Hang up the engine
3. Unscrew the 6 nuts securing the engine bracket (18)
4. To unscrew the last nut, it is easier to remove a part of the intake manifold. (see fig. 1 red marker)

5. Remove the bracket, unscrew the clamp of the power steering pump inlet pipe, drain the fluid from the tank
6. Using a 14 wrench clockwise, loosen the tension roller of the ribbed belt, remove the belt
7. Unscrew the 2 brackets securing the high pressure pipeline (from the pump to the rail, see Fig. 1 green marker)
8. Unscrew 3 bolts on “10” through the holes in the power steering pump shaft.

unscrew the bolts through this hole

It is best to unscrew it with such a key.

9. Unscrew the last bolt at “10”

it was unscrewed with a flat spanner wrench

10. Pull out the power steering pump, unscrew the high pressure pipe union with a 18 key.

Next, we carry the pump to a warm place (it is desirable that there is a vice in this warm place). We grip the Pump in a vice and begin to disassemble it:
1. First you need to remove the retaining ring. To do this, through the hole with an awl or a thin nail, we fix one end of the stopper, at the other end we knock a thin screwdriver. We take out the stopper
2. Clamping the pump in a vice, take the back of the gas wrench and open it.

3. Take a screwdriver and remove another retaining ring

4. We take out the shaft together with the pulley
5. Prykovyrnuv screwdriver, take out the oil seal.

The oil seal was taken from the VAZ in the store for cans. It is called "gear selector shaft oil seal"

6. We take out all the giblets on a clean cloth

Then wipe everything off, insert a new oil seal and reassemble in the reverse order, without confusing anything.

The work seems to be not hard, but I matured mentally for a long time. In addition, I did not know which oil seal to buy. The car is already old, but on the Internet I did not find information from experienced owners about replacing the oil seal on a diesel engine, or maybe I was looking badly.On gasoline versions of Mondeo, a 16x30 oil seal is installed in the power steering pump (if you believe monduvodam). I bought this one - CORTECO / 12013061B. Yes, and the liquid in the hydraulic booster would also not hurt to replace it. Ižku chose the cheapest one that was offered and was suitable for the purpose.

The culprit of this record in all its glory

The pump took off quickly. I tried to drain the old slurry from the system to the maximum. I tried, of course, to drain it into a jar, but it turned out just to drain, shit wherever the current is possible.
He took the pump to the "operating table" and started.

A crack was found on the pulley, this is a disease for them.

I went before with a crack and will continue to ride. Hopefully it will not progress.
I climbed to the oil seal through the pump's ass so as not to touch the already tired pulley.

From this part, you need to pull out the retaining ring using a thin object, like an awl. There is a hole on the side, we run an awl there, press and the ring comes out. Then, by lightly tapping the hammer on the body, remove the cover

Everything I did when disassembling the pump seemed painfully familiar to me, but I chalked it up to the fact that all pumps are similar to each other. It turned out not to be. When he pulled out the inside of the pump and, turning the body, saw the oil seal, all the secrets were revealed - the pump is one to one as on Safran 2.5.

Accordingly, the purchased 16x30 oil seal does not fit. If Corteco is again preferred, oil seal number 01020304B is required. Here I must say thank you to my wife, because I went to the car shop on the bus and brought what I needed.

Rinsed the tank and poured fresh slurry

I turned the steering wheel a couple of times from lock to lock on the muffled car (the wheels were hung out), then on the wound one. Now while I go and watch.

I'll tell you right away: the photos are not mine, they were not up to at the time of the repair, and the phone sat down at the right time.

Let's move on to the report.
To begin with, the background: somehow I discovered a slight fogging of the pump. Very small, the level in the tank did not go away at all.

But with the onset of cold weather, the power steering pump began to howl. You start up after parking and it started. As soon as the car warmed up, the nasty howl disappeared. This is due to the heating of materials and other physical crap. You can't live like that! And it was decided to deal with this problem. A simple replacement of the old tank with a flushed power steering tank did not help (well, plus, when replacing the system, I air it a little. It's cold, you know, on the street). After the air got into the power steering system, it refused completely. Well, as they say, pan or disappear. Or a new pump or a bulkhead of an existing one.

To begin with, studying the price ranges: a new pump of 22-25 thousand, a new refurbished by the plant 10-13 thousand, well, repairs from 13 thousand and above, and the maximum warranty period is 2 months.

Then, having studied the issue, I realized that it wouldn’t be worse and began to prepare for the repair on my own.
To do this, I dropped into Auto-49 and bought a set of gaskets 220 pcs. for 251 rubles,

O-ring gasket set

slurry GUR 1 781 003 (CHF color green!) I took from good people three cans per liter for 900 rubles in total.

At the same time, I grabbed a carburetor cleaner (cheap) so that all the snot was washed off, well, little things ... the clamps and the head were 22 long.

I asked the superiors for a warm box and began the process. I DIDN'T REMOVE THE PUMP FROM THE MACHINE.
To begin with, I hung it up in front of the car on tripods. Pull the tensioner out of the engine compartment (15 spanner spanner) and take off the drive belt (1 minute). Then he removed the right headlight, pumped out the power steering fluid, disconnected the reservoir. Then, with a 12 key, I disconnected the metal tube from the pump, through which the pump sucks in the slurry.

When this part is in your hands, you will see a gasket through which air is sucked into the pump. Hence the howl, and foam in the tank and all the trouble. We select the one you need from the set and stretch it instead of the old, no longer elastic pad. We install the tube in place. Fits tightly. We attract.
Let's move on.
We put a rag under the power steering pump so that nothing falls into the bowels of the car. Using a 22 spanner wrench, unscrew the plug, under which the bypass valve (plunger). We carefully take it out, it is with a spring. Try not to lose anything.

The content of the article:
1. Replacing power steering fluid in Ford Mondeo
2. Installing a power steering reservoir from the Volga in a Ford Mondeo
1. Fluid change

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Hello everyone, the video shows how you can sort out the power pump yourself without having much experience, and having a minimum of tools. I ask you not to judge strictly, since such work is carried out in a specialized service, and we did everything, roughly speaking, on the knee, the official dealer will envy the quality of the work performed nAll questions can be asked in VK vk / id198767324nNumbers of spare parts orderednOil atf dextron iii - 226502721 CHEVRON Washed with such a nSeal NJ on mondeo diesels the pump is different so the oil seal may not fit nLiquimoly top tec atf 1100 7626 LIQUI MOLY filled with oil nGur tube seal 3518119 second-layer ringnGur tube union 6742740 not useful

site of home craftsmen, professional advice and useful information for everyone who loves tinkering and knows how to work with their own hands

(Ford Scorpio 2.0i N9D engine 1990)

Replacing the bearing of the power steering pump I had to do it after the knock appeared in the area of the generator when the engine was started.

At rpm above 2000, the knocking disappeared, a faint hum appeared. After removing the belt and turning the power steering pump pulley, a noticeable bearing play was found. Since the price of a new pump is currently within $ 100, and the pump from disassembly just failed after six months of operation, it was decided to replace the bearing. Several sites for repairing the power steering pump were found on the network, but as always the pump turned out to be not the same as in the articles.
Dismantling the power steering pump:

With a 20 cm 3 syringe, pump out all the oil from the power steering tank.
Remove the drive belt by loosening the tensioner with a spanner wrench.
Unscrew the two bolts securing the power steering pump pulley and screw in two M8x50 bolts instead. These bolts are used to secure the pulley with a pry bar to unscrew the remaining two bolts. Remove the pulley from the triangular flange.
Loosen the clamp, remove the hose. Unscrew the union with the tube. An open-end wrench for 16, I had to use an adjustable one.
Unscrew the three M8 screws securing the pump.
Thoroughly clean the pump of oil and dirt.
Clamp the pump by the casing in a vice with the triangular pulley flange facing up. The flange is hot-fit. Some articles describe the removal method with a chisel and hammer. But with this method, you can ditch the pump without starting disassembly. Therefore, the flange was removed with a three-arm puller.
After removing the flange, turn the pump upside down and unscrew the six screws securing the pump cover.

This is the repair of do-it-yourself power steering pump bearing replacement can be considered complete. Nothing complicated - desire, a minimum of plumbing skills and increased attention.

The device of the car is extremely complex and, despite the high cost and quality of its components, all parts have a margin of safety and sooner or later fail. In almost all models of modern cars, the most susceptible to wear and tear are the structural components of the steering rack. The Ford Mondeo lineup is no exception. It is the steering control system that bears the main load when driving, and the slightest bumps or pits on the road are directly transmitted to the rail by the steering rods. In addition, sudden movements of the steering wheel by the driver have an additional detrimental effect on the entire mechanism. Therefore, despite the increased strength, Ford Mondeo steering rack repair is required relatively often.

Ease of driving a modern car is one of the priority factors for most motorists. It is the lightest possible turn of the steering wheel and the "obedience" of the car on the road that become key when choosing a new car. However, not all motorists think that the more complex and expensive the mechanism is, the more expensive it will be to repair the steering system.
Several basic types of automotive steering rack structures are used in modern vehicles. The classic mechanical system has remained today only on outdated domestic cars. The relatively new hydraulic rack is the most common option found on most vehicles today. The newest design of the control system installed on the newest car models is electric.In this version, there is no power steering, and driving is carried out by an electric motor. This design is most ideal for most road conditions, but is quite expensive.

In order to competently and with the highest quality carry out the repair of the Mondeo steering rack, specialists strive to diagnose all components of the mechanism. The main components that make up the steering system:

Carter (or body). All the components of the steering rack are located in it, it is mainly made of light aluminum alloy, which makes it quite vulnerable.
Gear and toothed bar kit. It is with their help that the movement is transmitted from the steering wheel to the rods and further to the wheels.

Spring system. It is responsible for the absence of a gap between the rack and the gear, which guarantees that there is no arbitrary movement of the steering wheel.

Bearings. They move the rail when cornering.

Limiters. Establish and adjust the extreme positions of the rail.

Steering rods. They are attached to the sliding parts of the rail.

Tips. The wheels are turned directly.

Power steering. Provides easy wheel turning.

On more expensive modern cars, there are additional steering mechanisms that make the car comfortable and enjoyable to drive. However, if it is necessary to often drive on poor-quality roads, the motorist risks, because of all these "bells and whistles", much faster to disable the entire steering rack mechanism.

The Ford Mondeo 3 rail should be repaired only in specialized service centers, since only professional craftsmen thoroughly know the structure of the steering mechanism, so they can quickly and efficiently eliminate the damage that has arisen. In order not to need an emergency repair of the steering rack Ford Mondeo 3, you need to know the main features of the power steering system:

The design of the power steering of Ford Mondeo cars is partially built into the rack housing and its operation is possible only when the power device is running.
The torque is transmitted by a temporary transmission, after which the hydraulic booster is started, which sets the required pressure inside the car's rack housing.
A special computer sets the direction of pressure when moving on the rail and the amount of transmitted force.
The pressure is built up by means of a spool valve, which increases the pressure only in the required sections of the rail.
The complex of an electronic system and a special torsion bar determines the direction of pressure, which helps to turn the steering wheel at a certain moment of movement.
A container with oil is filled exclusively when the engine is turned off, as well as when driving straight. When the car is turning, oil from the reservoir, using the spool valve, enters a certain compartment of the steering rack and creates the required pressure level for turning.
The power steering pump directly controls the injection of oil to the machine's rack, and then returns it back to the reservoir when the pressure on the steering wheel is removed.

Such a system greatly facilitates the process of driving a Ford Mondeo, but requires constant preventive maintenance and checking for oil leaks.

The number of different malfunctions that can occur in the steering mechanism is significant. It depends on the design of a particular steering rack, because manufacturers are constantly improving this mechanism, trying to attract the attention of potential buyers.The increasing complexity of the device, in turn, leads to difficulties in the repair and maintenance of the vehicle's steering system. Repairing the Mondeo 3 steering rack, fortunately, will not cause great difficulties for the car service specialists, since the steering design of this car has already become classic and is not much different from the repair of the Mondeo 2 steering rack.

The knock of the rack in the area of the front axle of the car. At first, it is not very noticeable and occurs only when driving on an uneven road. If you do not contact the service in time, the knocking will gradually increase and will be given to the steering wheel area. As a result, it may be necessary not only to repair, but also to replace the complete steering linkage mechanism Ford Mondeo 3.
Difficulty running the steering wheel. Difficulties arise when turning the steering wheel in both directions and at the same time the whistle of the mechanism is heard.
Difficulty turning the steering wheel, which disappears with increasing speed, while an itching sound appears.
Poor steering wheel at a power steering oil temperature of up to 30 degrees. With an increase in temperature from 50 and above, the steering wheel travel is normalized.
Difference between steering angle and steering angle, vehicle drifts and steering difficulties.
Vibration of the steering wheel when driving straight ahead.
Power steering fluid leaks.
Lack of return of the steering wheel to its original position, as well as its spontaneous movement.

If the steering rack malfunctions, it is rarely possible to repair or restore. Most often, it is most optimal to completely replace the rail or even the entire mechanism. Competent car service specialists will not only replace the steering structure, but can also strengthen the assembly, thereby increasing its reliability.

If you need to replace the rail, you should purchase an original Ford part. Cheaper analogues or components from other manufacturers may not work reliably enough and will not provide the proper quality of driving. It is important to remember that the steering mechanism is one of the most important mechanisms in a car, which not only ensures the transfer of forces from the steering wheel to the wheels, but is also responsible for driving safety.