DIY bmw e46 power steering pump repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a power steering pump on a bmw e46 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Good day to all.

We got our hands on the gur pump (finally), otherwise I'm tired of turning the steering wheel when parking or turning (worse than on a Zhiguli). Symptoms were as follows ... On a cold one, the steering wheel spun in place as well as when driving, but as soon as the car warmed up, it became almost impossible to turn the steering wheel in place (the fluid in the system heated up and the pump stopped working).
Well, they drove to the store and to the garage. The original pump (new) costs about 15 rubles, which naturally raises the question of expediency (yes, I'm not a fan of collective farms, but there are some moments where analogs are not worse), the most adequate German substitute Luk also costs 9-11k, but armed with the Internet we find out that there is a ZF pump from a shnivy, which costs 3.5 - 4.5k (I took the new one for 4.2k) and differs by a small difference in pressure of 104 bar versus 120 for the original.

In this case, the steering wheel after replacement turns not a little worse. Of course, I bought a gora liquid and both belts, since I would still throw them off, and it would be high time.
I will not write the essence of the replacement process, and I didn’t really take pictures, because there’s a lot already, and mine wouldn’t be much different, since I ooh ... ahem, I went nuts when I took off the belt ...

So that day has come -X-
when I took the tool in hand, the keys, the sledgehammer and the grinder.
in the July heat, the power steering pump began to howl in the car
well, a month later, in this heat, he finally ate)))
the steering wheel became so tight that you couldn't turn on the spot at all and from under the hood you could hear not howling, but already screeching.
I decided to disassemble it and see what was there and how.
ZF pumps can be disassembled very easily, only TORX sprockets are needed

Video (click to play).

during assembly, I used thick oil so that the rotor blades did not disintegrate, they are placed with rounded edges to the stator so that they would not be lifted against the stator itself)))))

when repairing a pump, the rotor, blades and stator are simply replaced, but I did not find it on sale.))))
and where they sort out they did not sell me)))
therefore I decided to take such a step, until I regret it))))
after the repair, the pressure went to normal, the steering wheel began to spin with one hand without a hint of a howl, it became more informative)))
but after 2 days the oil seals on the rail squeezed out and it generally flowed like a stream))))
there just the oil seals were worn out in general in the trash about it in the next. article)))

if I just replaced the pump, the result would be the same, since the previous pump did not give normal pressure and the rack was worn out,
so as soon as your pump starts working, you should contact the service and do not delay with this case, otherwise you risk getting a normal amount or break the boss how to restore))))

at the end of the article, the dimensions of the rings for the pump. for those who decide to sort out on their own))
44x2 stator housing ring
60x2 pump casing ring
14x2 ring between pump casing and stator casing

can someone come in handy, I searched and did not find, such information was not available anywhere for this method of measurement and selection)))))
Good luck to everyone, bye everyone.

The problem is this. The power steering pump began to “crackle” in the summer, and it does not affect the performance of the steering, the steering wheel turns easily, there are no sounds of strangers when the wheels rotate, nothing flows from the pump, the liquid has been replaced with green flushing, there is no bubbling. If podgazovyvat, then the sound, whether the operation of the engine is blocked, or disappears. Moreover, just a week ago, this sound began to disappear, i.e. when you start the car, it rattles for a minute or two, and then dies down.
When he was throwing off the belt, the pulley turns very easily, and the pulley with the axle has a noticeable radial play.I tried to twist the new ZF from the shnivy in the store, it seems to be harder and more clearly rotates even without liquid.

Is the pump getting ready to die? 🙂 It was just that a friend's tensioner pulley squealed, squealed, he sprinkled it with a WD-drum, like the noise had disappeared. but literally a week later this roller jammed, the belt broke.

Is it possible that the chirping is produced by the power steering bearing?
Googled a little on the adjacent forums on WV, MB, like the people disassemble the pumps and change the bearings, oil seals, and gaskets in them if the pump leaks, such as bearing 6203 or 6303 dies, and the rotor itself with plates in normal condition and the output on the “ring” is almost no.

Can our original pump be disassembled to the point of replacing the bearing?

I will tell you how I repaired the power steering pump. But first, a little background.

The steering wheel on a cold car in summer and winter works flawlessly. But as soon as the car warms up, especially in summer, the steering wheel on the XX becomes very tight, as if the power steering is not there. In winter, this problem does not manifest itself so strongly, but it is still present. If you put it on the gas, the steering wheel immediately turns with ease (though not quite perfect, but still lighter). At the same time, the pump does not knock, does not ring, nor leaks, etc ... (do not take the snotty rail into account) the oil is fresh and perfect (especially, thanks to the state of the rail, it is updated regularly!), The cardan is lubricated and does not wedge!

In general, on the face of the sign of the lack of performance of the power steering pump with hot oil at XX. I didn't suffer for a long time, in the end I decided to deal with this problem, spent a lot of time, rummaged through the Internet, understood the principle of the pump, found a similar description and decided to sort out my "old" pump.

And so, first of all, we remove the pump, it is necessary to drain all the slurry from it (how to remove it and drain the liquid, I think everyone will figure it out), also, on the back cover of the power steering, you need to unscrew four bolts with a 14 head.

After we begin to carefully remove the cover, try not to damage the gasket (this gasket with an internal rubber seal), in the power steering body we leave the outer part of the "working ellipse cylinder" (hereinafter simply the cylinder). There is no need to be scared when the lid moves away from the case, it may seem that it is moving away due to the influence of the spring, during reassembly it will seem to you that it does not fit into place, just continue to carefully and alternately tighten the bolts diagonally, then everything will fall into place ...

Carefully inspect the contents and remember (you can take a photo) what stood where and how (more attention should be paid to the position of the cylinder). You can twist the power steering pulley and gently check with tweezers how the blades move in the grooves of the shaft.

All parts should be pulled out without effort, since they do not have any fixations, but the central axis is fixed rigidly, it cannot be removed.

We inspect the shaft from the back side, parts (power steering body and cover wall) touching them, for scoring or grooves, everything is perfect for me.

Now we take out the entire internal economy on "clean" rags and begin to study it.

We carefully examine the shaft, all its grooves have very sharp edges on all sides. One of the end sides of each groove has a pronounced sharpening inward, which, when the blade moves inside the groove with a constant slope to this side, will greatly complicate its movement (this may be the first component of the poor operation of the power steering). The lateral parts of the grooves of the shaft are also "sharpened", this can be felt if you slide your finger in different directions along the end (outer circumference), as well as along the lateral parts of the shaft in different directions. The rest of the shaft is perfect, does not have any flaws and notches.

The faults were found, now we are starting to eliminate them.

We need a rag, white alcohol, sandpaper with a grit of P1000 / P1500 / P2000, a triangular file, a 12mm drill (or more) and an electric drill.With the shaft, everything is much simpler, you need a P1500 sandpaper and we begin to clean all the edges of the grooves on the shaft (we clean the outer and lateral on both sides) in all possible ways. We work without fanaticism, the main task is to remove only sharp burrs.

For one thing, you can immediately polish both sides of the shaft on a flat surface, it is advisable to use P2000 sandpaper.

Next, you need to check the result of our work, check it visually and by touch, everything is perfectly smooth and does not cling.

The most difficult thing will have to do with the surface of the cylinder, I personally have nothing simpler, I have not figured out how to make a spherical grinder from a skin, a drill and a thick drill (F12). To begin with, we take a P1000 skin and such a drill, which can be crammed into a drill.

Next, you need to tightly wind the skin against the rotation of the drill, in two or three turns, there should be no gaps.

Holding the tightly twisted structure, you need to insert it into the drill (clamp the skin too).

Then, in the most convenient ways for you, we carefully begin to grind the cylinder, you need to grind evenly, press the cylinder tightly and move it relative to the axis of rotation (at maximum speed). As the skin is eaten, we change it, as a result we reach the smallest skin P2000.

The desired result is obtained,

now everything must be thoroughly wiped with a path with white alcohol. The shaft itself with blades can be rinsed in it.

After we start the assembly, everything is put in the reverse order of removal.

1 Suck the oil out of the reservoir using a suitable device or a regular slot.
2 Remove the lower cover of the engine compartment, refer to Section Removal and installation of the lower cover of the engine compartment.
3 Remove the V-belt, refer to Section Removal, installation and tension of the V-belt.

No contamination of any kind is allowed to enter the hydraulic system. Close open pipelines and hoses with plugs or polyethylene, securing it with a rubber band.

4 Release the clamp -1- and disconnect the suction hose.

5 Unscrew the union nut and disconnect the pressure line -2-.
6 Unscrew the fastening bolts -3- and disconnect the pulley holding it against rotation by the internal hexagon -4- of the pump shaft using a 10 mm socket wrench.

7 Unscrew the top two bolts -6- of the power steering pump and remove the pump. -3- pulley mounting bolt, -7- pulley.

8 Reinstall the power steering pump and secure with the bolts.
9 Replace the pulley and secure it.
10 Secure the discharge line with the union nut.
The tightening torques, depending on the thread diameter, are as follows:

M10 - 12 N • m
M14 - 35 N • m
М16 - 40 N • m
11 Put on the V-belt, refer to Section Removal, installation and tension of the V-belt.
12 Install the lower cover of the engine compartment, refer to Section Removal and installation of the lower cover of the engine compartment.
13 Refill the system with new oil and purge the air from the system.

Used liquid should not be reused.

We draw your attention to the fact that all information presented on the site regarding the cost of service is for informational purposes and under no circumstances is a public offer determined by the provisions of Article 437 (2) of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation. For detailed information on the cost of work, please call 8 (495) 281-54-82.

These prices may vary depending on the model of your car. You can check the exact cost of work by calling 8 (495) 281-54-82 and 8 (495) 281-54-81.

GUR PUMP REPAIR.

POWER STEERING PUMP MALFUNCTIONS:

- Leakage of power steering fluid (ATF) from the pump.

- The power steering pump is covered with a layer of road dust (the dust is wet).

- Increased effort on the steering wheel.

- Sticking or biting the steering wheel (mechanism).

- Extraneous noise and / or hum when turning the steering wheel.

- Lack of reinforcement (tight steering wheel).

- Foam in the power steering barrel.

- Lack of circulation of fluid (ATF) of the hydraulic booster.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE GUR PUMP

Technical center "SUZAR" provides a full cycle service: removal - repair - installation.

You can also bring us the already removed pump. We will carry out repairs with a mandatory check at the stand. You will pick up the repaired unit and install it yourself.

Author Topic: Power steering pump e46 (Read 7530 times)

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buy a gur pump for m30b34. ...

After 2 years of unhurried self-repair, I made insurance and drove off.
On a hot engine, when p.

the condition of the rotors is not important. critical is the absence of traces of wear, scuffing on the body (at the point of contact.

in fact, there were such spare parts, a pump of 5 rubles, a compressor of 7 rubles, everything is in working order, communication.

In the title of the topic. It was LuK. It seems like this machine has its own pump. If anyone knows from what else.

If you want to sign up for the repair of a steering rack for BMW E46, you need to: 1. call: +7 (495) 369-94-41, explain the problem and characteristic signs to the master inspector; 2. The wizard will guide you on the cost, time and timing of the repair (the price may differ from the cost on the site, both upward and downward, the repair time is usually 2-3 hours); 3. You arrive, the foreman makes an inspection on the spot and says the price and cost; 4.Our craftsmen remove, repair and install the rail on your car; 5. You check, pay, get a guarantee for work.

It is believed that the hydraulic steering system cannot be repaired. We want to refute this right away. All over the world there is a practice of restoring steering racks with power steering. Moreover, the cost of a new steering rack is so high that in some cases it is easier to buy a new car than to replace the steering rack.

In our PEEK Repair Center you will receive qualified assistance in the repair of a steering rack on a BMW E 46 or any other car.

In Russia and other countries of the former CIS, the practice of restoring steering racks with power steering (power steering) has existed for more than 10 years. At the same time, this practice takes into account the quality of our roads - hydraulics, rack and all other steering elements are restored using reliable quality parts. In any case, this is what the masters do in our PEEK Repair Center.

Availability of the most modern equipment for diagnostics of the steering system and repair of racks, power steering and power steering pumps;
Experience exceeding 11 years;
The most competitive prices in the metropolitan car service market.

We provide guarantees for all work on the restoration and repair of the BMW E46 steering rack.

Read also: DIY jileks jumbo pump repair

In this photo report, you will learn all the main points of how to repair the steering rack with your own hands on a BMW 3 series car in the back of an e46. The reasons that prompted us to this action are constant smudges and knocking from the steering rack. It should be noted that this device can be partially repaired in almost any case, and not completely replaced. What we will demonstrate to you.

For this topic, you can also watch a video about repairing a steering rack BMW E46.

We turn away everything that can be turned away.

There is such a locking ring on the right, we take it out.

From the top of the worm, remove the plastic centering sleeve (you need to remember its original position), there we see the retaining ring, remove it.

We circle the cap from below, then the worm nut and begin to gently knock it out.

Next, at the right end of the rail, we begin to pull out the flange with the bushing and the gland, pulling the shaft towards ourselves. This is how this thing looks like.

We take out the oil seal and the bushing. In the same way, we press in new parts. I pressed it by hand, putting the flange on the table. Thoroughly rinse the rail inside with gasoline. In the center of the rail there is another oil seal, it needs to be broken with a screwdriver with a long handle. You can press it in two ways: Shaft and Head (be sure to wrap it with paper tape to avoid damaging the mirror).

If on the shaft or on the worm there are scuffs (belt) from the stuffing boxes, you need to polish with an abrasive sandpaper 2000. The piston rings (let's call them conditionally) on the worms and the shaft in my case were not worn out, so I did not touch them. ) elements on those that are in the repair kit + bearings, lubricate them with pentosin. Next, we begin to carefully insert the shaft, having previously wrapped the teeth with paper tape, so as not to spoil the internal oil seal.

We begin to insert the worm. If desired, you can turn it 180 degrees, if there is a suspicion of wear (it did not turn it over), for this, as I wrote above, you need to remember the position of the plastic guide of the worm. Be sure to lubricate the gear pair with new grease. I used a bright green Castrol lithol for this, theoretically it should be with lithium additives.

The main difference between this type of steering rack is the hydraulic mechanism.

According to the experts of many auto repair shops, hydraulics are much more reliable and practical than an electric drive. Despite the fact that the latter type is the latest development, it has not gained popularity from the owners.

But manufacturers brought the servo into series production without asking the majority opinion. The reason for this action can be understood - a decrease in the cost of technical equipment, an increase in the revenue side. We can only hope that the subsequent changes will only be beneficial and level out the shortcomings.

The first distinguishing feature in the hydraulic steering type is the tight steering wheel travel when cornering. If this is felt, then the first thing to do is go to the service for diagnostics.

Of secondary importance is the presence of oily stains under the bottom of the car in the area of the power steering.

The third sign: beating and squeaks, indicating an insufficient amount of lubricant or its complete absence in the system.

It is not uncommon for specialists to encounter a steering wedge due to lack of oil. The car could not move independently, the driver had to use the services of a tow truck.

To work, you need the following tool:

the head is at "15";
spanner keys for "16", "17";
stationary wrench for unscrewing the wheels.

In addition to tools, you need consumables such as rags, oil for filling in the hydraulic booster, seals, rubber bands.

After the car is taken away from the owner, it is driven onto the lifting mechanism to start work.
Using a wheel wrench, unscrew the bolts on the discs, but do not turn them out. We carry out this operation only with the front tires, since in the rear we are not interested in anything yet.
We remove the slopes, unscrew the tips with a spanner wrench, tear them off the seat. You will have to make a little effort to press out.
The steering wheel is set to the "center" position, required. Otherwise, after complete assembly, the center of the steering wheel will be shifted to the side. There is nothing wrong with this, except for the limited visibility of the center console of the instruments.
Under the bottom of the car, in the area of the oil pan on the right side, we find the drain hole in the hydraulic booster. Many people confuse it with the oil pan drain. No, they are not the same thing. For convenience, our mechanics use empty containers for draining mining.
We are waiting for the moment until the liquid drains as much as possible from the power steering cylinder itself. This is important for several reasons. The more it drains, the better for the new oil. In addition, it is easier and more convenient to carry out repair work.
Using a spanner wrench on "15", unscrew the mounting bolts of the rail. There is one peculiarity of dismantling the PP in BMW: the upper bolt cannot be unscrewed just like that, you must first unlock the nut with a “16” wrench. This is the only way, and nothing else.
All fasteners are unscrewed, the pipelines are retracted, the liquid is drained, it remains only to pull the rail assembly out and start diagnostics. All actions are carried out by specialists carefully and carefully for the reason that it is possible to damage or bend any of the fluid supply channels, which is undesirable.

As befits, we begin with a visual inspection of the anther and its condition. As a rule, minders are faced with such a problem as damage to it after a run of 120,000 km or more.

If you pass a technical inspection and change consumables in a timely manner, nothing like this happens.

Otherwise, we have what we have. Moisture, sand, dirt penetrate inside and begin their destructive action, leading to premature repair.

Further, each part is disassembled one by one, its condition is inspected, a conclusion is made about the need to replace or carry out partial repairs. The first thing that needs to be replaced is a bipod made of durable polymer material. It is designed to press the gear-type rack against the worm shaft, thereby improving the interaction between the steering wheel and the wheel. At the end of the run, the bipod is erased, deformed, bursting with third-party mechanical shocks. The replacement is unambiguous, you shouldn't even stop there.

The next item is the flange bushing, which serves as an abutment for the bearing so that it does not play.Driving over bumps, bumps, loose bushing, all this leads to the fact that the bearing begins to "walk" and wear out. Moreover, under its own power, it causes damage to third-party parts. The main indicator of bushing wear is uneven wear. He will always be present, since there are no ideal roads.

Next comes a difficult moment - pressing out the bearing and the worm shaft. Since they are set quite tightly, you have to put in a little effort. The main thing is to keep the fitting in a strictly perpendicular direction and pull it out, holding the body itself. If you use too much force, you could be injured by hitting your elbow on your leg.

We check the bearing for suitability. It also needs to be replaced, since it makes no sense to install new parts and one old one in the form of a roller bearing. Most often, in this product, the roller fails and the seat for it wears out. This is due to the high mileage and untimely replacement.

We still have the rod itself and the cylindrical cavity of the steering rack. We clean it from grease residues, rinse it in kerosene or gasoline, dry it. Further, an important point is a thorough examination of the integrity of the case for the presence of mechanical damage and cracks. If there are any, the replacement is unambiguous.

This is followed by the assembly process in reverse order. Putting the mechanism together, replacing the old worn out parts with new ones. We install in the place of deployment, test the car. Finally, fill in a special oil for hydraulics, according to the data in the operating instructions for the technical tool. Watch your cars.

A wide model range represented by an automobile brand, each line in which has its own characteristic features, also has a list of common definitions. In particular, the stability of the operation of all systems and nodes is noted. But the domestic road conditions make the repair of BMW power steering pumps, for example, a necessity, and not an exception to the general rule. Therefore, owners who decide to purchase a car of this brand (regardless of which model) should find out in advance where to go in case of a breakdown, which is not so difficult to determine.There may be a lot of “signals” that something is not working in the system that way, and the specifics are different everywhere. However, there are some signs that even the most inexperienced driver will detect. These include:

when turning the steering wheel to either side, you have to make significant efforts;

at high speed the car loses its stability;

uncharacteristic noises in the power steering;

the steering shaft wedges.

If we talk about the relationship, then it is worth noting that if there is insufficient pressure in the system, the steering wheel will rotate tightly, but if the parts are worn out, then extraneous noises are heard. Only a service technician will be able to pinpoint the malfunction.Considering that the model line includes cars of both middle and relatively budget class (if in this case I can say so), as well as business or luxury, we have equipped the technical center with everything that is most likely needed when restoring various kinds of breakdowns. Therefore, we can confidently say that the repair of BMW power steering pumps when contacting us will definitely not cause problems, it will be carried out promptly and at the proper quality level.To sign up for diagnostics, you need to contact us by the phone number provided, or send an application online (it will take no more than a minute).This photo report shows in detail how do it yourself replace the pump power steering (power steering) by car BMW 5-series in the back of e39. It is worth noting that in our photo report, the pump was replaced with not the original power steering pump, but with a pump from under the Chevrolet Niva. This pump has some structural differences, but due to dexterity they can be interchanged. But if you have an original part, then in order to remove and install the power steering of a BMW e39, after looking at this photo instruction, there should be no difficulties.There are 2 differences: on the pump from the Niva, 1 threaded tide is missing and the pulleys do not coincide by 1.5 mmReplacement will require new oil and the most common set of tools.1 Suck the oil out of the reservoir using a suitable device or a regular slot.
2 Remove the lower cover of the engine compartment, refer to Section Removal and installation of the lower cover of the engine compartment.
3 Remove the V-belt, refer to Section Removal, installation and tension of the V-belt. No contamination of any kind is allowed to enter the hydraulic system. Close open pipelines and hoses with plugs or polyethylene, securing it with a rubber band.4 Release the clamp -1- and disconnect the suction hose.5 Unscrew the union nut and disconnect the pressure line -2-.
6 Unscrew the fastening bolts -3- and disconnect the pulley holding it against rotation by the internal hexagon -4- of the pump shaft using a 10 mm socket wrench. 7 Unscrew the top two bolts -6- of the power steering pump and remove the pump. -3- pulley mounting bolt, -7- pulley.8 Reinstall the power steering pump and secure with the bolts.
9 Replace the pulley and secure it.
10 Secure the discharge line with the union nut.
The tightening torques, depending on the thread diameter, are as follows:M10 - 12 N • m
M14 - 35 N • m
М16 - 40 N • m
11 Put on the V-belt, refer to Section Removal, installation and tension of the V-belt.
12 Install the lower cover of the engine compartment, refer to Section Removal and installation of the lower cover of the engine compartment.
13 Refill the system with new oil and purge the air from the system.