DIY gur pump repair for uaz hunter

Power steering power steering, device, repair, operation.

Attention! A proven method!
With the help of a modified pump puller VAZ 01-07 (worth a penny) and two M8 bolts 65 mm long. When working, consider three points
1.holes in the steering wheel hub are not drilled through 180 degrees
2.Cut off the jumper between the hole and the end of the puller with a grinder
3.Fake steering wheels do not have technological holes in the hub and this method will not help
Notes:
1. On sale there are pump pullers of different thickness - the correct one is the one> = 10mm.
2. Before you pick up the grinder, you need to try on the puller on the handlebars and outline the direction of future cuts. The grinder will have to work seriously.
3. Screw the bolts (those that are M8) into the holes on the steering wheel and necessarily lock on the reverse side with nuts. (otherwise the thread will rip off)
Press down with the screw (M10) included in the puller kit.
Photo of the modified puller, puller assembly. Large diameter nuts act as non-crease washers.

The same problem came up. I had to throw the steering wheel over a couple of slots, so I could not remove it. I had to disconnect the steering shaft and rearrange it in the splines. There is a barbaric way, but this steering wheel is painfully flimsy for him to the touch. You can unscrew the retaining nut, disconnect the shaft and loosen the steering column bearing. One pulls the steering wheel towards itself, and the other hits the end of the steering shaft with a heavy hammer. You can make a fittings from a nut screwing onto the steering shaft by half of its thread and a bolt screwing into this nut. And it is more convenient to knock on the bolt.

I have one that they put on the latest new UAZs, so it can be removed with a puller without problems. There, under the plastic patch, there are two special holes for this purpose.

Everything is very simple - you need a thick (5-6 mm) plate with two holes for M8 bolts screwed into the steering wheel hub. The plate rests on the shaft, the bolts are tightened, the wheel is pulled together. You can drill holes in place by measuring the distance between the holes with a vernier caliper.

A 15x15 corner is taken, a piece of length is sawn off from it

20 cm.In it, in turn, 2 holes are drilled at a distance the same as the holes in the steering wheel (2 threaded holes into which the bracket for the bibical is passed), it is applied to the steering shaft and wrapped into the holes through the corner that there were two fools bolt М8. The bolts pull the steering wheel towards themselves, and the corner, respectively, rests on the shaft, the steering wheel is pulled together. I changed mine from the usual to the luxury one. And I wanted to help my friend remove the new steering wheel on the zero car - so he unscrewed his head nafig on one bolt - then he spent an hour turning out the stub - so make up your mind.

Before shooting, pour VDshka or Unisma! It will go easier !!
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It is pulled up by a simple device made from a sheet of an old spring. You take a leaf of the spring and bend one edge of it (cm 5-7) under 90 degrees. With this thing, the steering tips are very easy to tighten, only the wheels must be removed so that they do not interfere.

Can be tightened with a chisel. To do this, you will have to remove the rods (not the tips, but all the rods - while the convergence will not suffer) and holding the hinges in a vice, release the plugs (by unscrewing or twisting, if necessary. I tightened harder than in the primer - all the way and 1/4 back. everything is OK.By the way, even the new tips are wrapped 2.5 turns.
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To adjust the gearbox, unscrew the cap nut on the side of the gearbox housing (a large one, a key for 28 or 30, I used an adjustable one), remove the lock washer, tighten the adjusting screw with a “square” until the backlash is eliminated and assemble in the reverse order.It is also necessary to check the condition of the ends of the steering rods, very often the steering backlash is due to them.

Before adjusting the steering wheel - to the central position and tighten not according to the very "I do not want", but wisely. The witness himself, when the worm in the over-tightened gearbox was biting into extreme positions. Very unpleasant, especially on the road.
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It so happened that on my 91 thousand "loaf" the resource of the steering gear was completely exhausted. That is, the backlash was not eliminated by the adjusting screw, moreover, it became very tight to turn the steering wheel. In short, I decided to change the entot device. I read the ABC book, bought a new gearbox. and on Saturday together with a friend began to poke around. The first thing they ran into was the removal of the steering wheel. You need a special puller, and instead only a set consisting of a hammer and a sledgehammer and a long list of obscene expressions. After an unsuccessful hour of work with this set, the commander's decision came to cut off the steering column with a "grinder". No sooner said than done, only the people from the neighboring garages looked at this operation in a strange way. Next, you need to remove the steering bipod. There was a puller for this operation, but in the process of its implementation it was gone. I had to remove the cover with the adjusting screw, insert a “locomotive” key between the gearbox housing and the steering bipod and separate these parts with the blows of a 10-kg sledgehammer on the steering bipod shaft. The remnants of the old gearbox were thrown away, the transmission synthetics (GL5) were poured into the new one and everything was put in place.
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UAZ does not produce military bridges + power steering vehicles (except for "Bars"). In my opinion, the problem is that military bridges have a greater angle of rotation of the wheel (or it is known that the power steering is unreliable.) not one of the strongmen), on bumps I try not to turn the steering wheel too much unnecessarily (or do I see some special bumps?) [Commodore]

I have had a power steering for a year (with military bridges), and I must say that I am very pleased with it.
1. The car has excellent maneuverability - since the angle of rotation of the wheels of the military is greater, the light steering wheel when parking allows you to turn literally on the spot. Try to do the same operation without power steering.
2. On the track, the car reacts less to unevenness, it is easier to keep it on a straight line, and there is zero, although not the same as on foreign cars.
3. Off-road is easier than an example - over bumps and ruts!
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In my opinion, this is a matter of habit. There is one more thing. What did you drive before? The base is short, so it prowls along the road. This is not even a generic feature of the Ulyanovsk all-terrain vehicles, but a feature inherent in all short-range vehicles. So far I have been driving the "goat" and have not noticed any yaw. Hands themselves already automatically corrected the movement of the car imperceptibly for me. But as soon as I took a ride in a long-wheelbase car, I was horrified when I got into my own “goat”. And before that I went and did not notice.

The problem can be solved, but only in a complex. Install a steering damper, good shock absorbers, eliminate all backlash in the steering rods, gearbox, swingarm, bearings, etc. and install good tires. It will get much better. But it won't be perfect anyway, it's not VW. You just have to get used to it. Do not think that if the car is new, then there is still no backlash. That is why (because the car is new) it is still very poorly made. Everything must be checked and tightened / changed / adjusted. If done by hand, everything will be fine.

1. Eliminate imperfections and backlashes. 2. Get used to 3. Not voiced by previous speakers: there are Guras with, so to speak, with a "minor" drawback - the actuation of this device with a slight delay, with zero information content of the steering wheel, this leads to "overrun".
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In fact, it is more reliable, and by the way and cheaper, imported from disassembly, for example from Chevrolet. In Vadik's "Black Cuttlefish", for example, there is, after two untimely dead of ours.

I myself got a hydrach on a UAZ, I attached a W-123 body from Merce. I installed the gearbox without any problems, but I had to tinker with the pump.Put it together with the steering column and all the switches and the ignition switch! And it took about two days, taking into account all the preparatory work!

The product of joint production of OJSC “Avtodetal-Service” (Ulyanovsk) and the firm “ZF Lenksysteme” (Germany) for the production of a Steering gear with a hydraulic booster (31608-3400500) (hereinafter “Mechanism”) for UAZ cars of the brand: passenger cars 3160, 3162, 3163 and cargo UAZ 2360- "Pickup".

The complete set of the "Mechanism" includes parts manufactured by ZFLS (Germany): a high-pressure pump, a distributor with a screw and a piston - with a rack assembly, needle injection and drain hoses, an oil tank, a tank clamp, a bracket, a pump holder, a poly V-belt pulley , fasteners.

Test tests gave the following results (tests were carried out on a serial UAZ-31622):
1. Effort on the steering wheel: to the left 2.0 kgf; to the right 2.6 kgf;
2. Speed ​​of self-return of the steering wheel: 246 degrees / sec;
3. Changeover speed: 76.1 km / h;
4. Speed ​​of turning R 35 m: 69.5 km / h;
5. Transfer ratio of the steering mechanism: 17.23.
The sale of a complete set of power steering gear is made by Tehresurs LLC.
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You can rotate, but it is undesirable to ride like this for a long time. This option was from the factory - a gearbox from a power steering, but there was no pump and other things. He traveled several thousand - then the backlash in the gearbox increased.
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The invention is not mine, it is from the ancients and the chorus. forgotten "experienced advice". In quality anthers USE ball finger covers from ZAZ-968 A, M, slightly cutting them off from above.
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A complete list of components, as well as a drawing and description of the power steering, installation procedure, operation and maintenance of the power steering HERE.

According to rumors, Sterlitamak is of higher quality than Borisov, although it is "tighter" (the gear ratio is less). Outwardly, the Sterlitamak hoses run one after the other from above, while the Borisov hoses run one on top and one on the side.

According to the Ulyanovsk craftsmen, the Borisov power steering is more reliable. Also, power steering, in my opinion, differ in the number of revolutions of the steering wheel (3 and 5).

The Borisov power steering is really very powerful, even on 35s with -19 discs it turns without feedback. But Sterlitamak is much more informative.

The plant does not make wagon-type cars with power steering - the issue is being resolved; cars of a wagon layout, on gear axles and with power steering (and without power steering) does not do at all.

Everything turned out surprisingly well for me. Although at first I found out that power boosters are not put on a loaf. But there was no strength to fight with the steering wheel (especially on the off-road) and decided to mount the usual UAZ hydraulic booster by means of a cunning bracket. From Ulyanovsk, they brought me a factory kit for installation on the UAZ-31514. When I found out what these hydraulic boosters are doing in Belarus in the glorious city of Borisov, we decided to go to the plant with a mechanic - to consult. And lo and behold - it turns out a month ago the factory workers made 5 hydraulic boosters specifically for loaves and went to Ulyanovsk to offer them to UAZ, but UAZ refused this development under the pretext that the stamping of the body had to be changed for this wetsuit. So they came back with these gidrikas (luckily for us). In short, we bought ourselves one for $ 50. Became like a native. With the steering column, I was a little perverted - I put MAZovskaya, with an adjustable tilt. As for the stamping, there was no need to cut the floor. car lifted under the 33rd rubber.
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There is the most traditional rack-and-pinion worm gearbox, it is good precisely because it is light - it is easy to turn on the spot, and on the track, but it returns to zero itself, just hold it. The same is bad - on bumps it “responds” with lightning speed and mercilessly - I, having broken two fingers with an old three-spoke steering wheel, put a weighted two-spoke steering wheel (in general, in my opinion, it is the most convenient of the existing ones).

The second option - Borisov or "luxury" has a powerful gearbox, due to which it is less sensitive, does not hit the hands, does not require strong steering on the track at high speeds.But it turns tighter than the first one and returns to zero itself less intensely, which, at least, annoys me.

To make it easier for the driver to control the vehicle, in modern cars, a hydraulic booster is installed on the steering column. One of the main elements of this mechanism is a pump that pumps hydraulic fluid through the power steering system. During operation, it is exposed to heavy loads, therefore, it is periodically necessary to repair the power steering pump.

You can change this unit with your own hands. It is even possible to replace a failed bearing. In this case, the power steering pump repair kit will come in handy, which can be bought at any car store.

Before deciding to carry out repair work, it is necessary to check the presence of liquid in the tank, as well as the compliance of its brand with the approved one for use on this machine. Often, the cause of the signs of malfunction is the appearance of air locks in the system. Therefore, if you suspect this, it is necessary to pump the hydraulics, removing all air plugs. In this case, the efficiency of the power steering can be fully restored. If, when checking the quality of the working fluid, it is found that it does not meet the standard, it is necessary to change it to the fluid of the desired brand. In the case when a decision is made to repair the power steering pump, it is required to prepare a workplace and the necessary tools, as well as materials for carrying out the work:

• you need a key for "12", as well as heads for "14" and "24";
• you will need a snap ring puller;
• prepare in advance two copper washers, a gasket for the rear casing, two O-rings and an oil seal, they can be replaced by a power steering pump repair kit;
• be sure to have a bearing marked "6202" and an outer diameter of 35 mm;
• to pump oil out of the tank, you need a large syringe and a container;
• clean the workbench and cover it with clean cardboard to disassemble the pump;
• prepare fine sandpaper and a cleaning cloth.

In order to remove the power steering pump and repair it with your own hands, you need to perform the following steps.

1. Slightly loosen the axle bolt that secures the pump unit to the bracket using the hole in the pulley. Loosen the tensioner retaining nut completely and remove the belt.
2. Using a syringe, pump out the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir. Turn the steering wheel right and left until it stops so that the oil is completely out of the system, do this several times to completely clean the pipelines.

1. Loosen the clamp on the hose that runs from the expansion tank and remove this line.

1. Remove the bolt that secures the high pressure hose from the pump to the system.
2. Remove the axle bolt that secures the pump to the bracket and replace it with a screwdriver or a metal rod of a suitable diameter in order to lock the pulley. Then unscrew the nut that secures the pump pulley.
3. Pull the released power steering pump unit up and put it in a specially prepared place. Remove dirt and oil from the unit housing.
4. Remove the bearing retaining ring with a puller.
5. Remove the rear cover mounting bolts. Gently pry it off with a small screwdriver and remove it, making sure that the rotor blades do not fall out of the housing.

1. Take out the blades and put them on pre-prepared numbered pieces of paper so as not to confuse anything during assembly. Attention! Remember the position of the assembled blades. When installed in a housing, the rounded part of these blades must be turned outward.

1. Remove the plate and all parts underneath.
2. Drive out the shaft by tapping gently with a screwdriver.

1. Press the bearing off the pump shaft.

1. Change the unusable bearing for a previously prepared one.

1. Check the parts of the pump set for defects and wear. Clean surfaces from dirt and roughness. Experts say - simple cleaning of internal parts reduces gaps and allows you to extend the operation of this unit without replacing any parts.

1. Reassemble in reverse order. It is imperative to change the oil seal, O-rings and washers for new ones prepared in advance.

If it is difficult for you to fix the power steering pump with your own hands or there is no time for this, then it is possible to replace the power steering pump with a new one. This will significantly reduce the repair time. Also watch a video on the topic: