Do-it-yourself gur nexia pump repair

12 closed type 6203DKA2
I bought 6203 skf 235 rubles, and 500 re for service.
The strangest thing is that the bearing is evidence and it feels alive, the internal pump is also normal. Vague doubts plagued ((
In general, I'm waiting for the gur to be returned))

This is a complete failure. The whole rumble was from the one-year-old belt leakage.

The belt that rotates the generator and the gur made the hellish sounds of a collapsed bearing, with a distinct rumble of rollers inside the rolled bearing.
I put a repair gur, but the sound did not disappear. I sprinkled it in a box, and there was silence for 30 seconds. I put a new belt of a different brand and silence. I'm just out. 2100 rubles wasted for nothing.

I could not even think that the belt could make such sounds.

The belt that rotates the generator and the gur made the hellish sounds of a collapsed bearing, with a distinct rumble of rollers inside the rolled bearing.
I put a repair gur, but the sound did not disappear. I sprinkled it in a box, and there was silence for 30 seconds. I put a new belt of a different brand and silence. I'm just out. 2100 rubles wasted for nothing.

I could not even think that the belt could make such sounds.

I will tell you how I repaired the power steering pump. But first, a little background.

The steering wheel on a cold car in summer and winter works flawlessly. But as soon as the car warms up, especially in summer, the steering wheel on the XX becomes very tight, as if the power steering is not there. In winter, this problem does not manifest itself so strongly, but it is still present. If you put it on the gas, the steering wheel immediately turns with ease (though not quite perfect, but still lighter). At the same time, the pump does not knock, does not ring, nor leaks, etc ... (do not take the snotty rail into account) the oil is fresh and perfect (especially, thanks to the state of the rail, it is updated regularly!), The cardan is lubricated and does not wedge!

In general, on the face of the sign of the lack of performance of the power steering pump with hot oil at XX. I didn't suffer for a long time, in the end I decided to deal with this problem, spent a lot of time, rummaged through the Internet, understood the principle of the pump, found a similar description and decided to sort out my "old" pump.

And so, first of all, we remove the pump, it is necessary to drain all the slurry from it (how to remove it and drain the liquid, I think everyone will figure it out), also, on the back cover of the power steering, you need to unscrew four bolts with a 14 head.

After we begin to carefully remove the cover, try not to damage the gasket (this gasket with an internal rubber seal), in the power steering body we leave the outer part of the "working ellipse cylinder" (hereinafter simply the cylinder). There is no need to be scared when the lid moves away from the case, it may seem that it is moving away due to the influence of the spring, during reassembly it will seem to you that it does not fit into place, just continue to carefully and alternately tighten the bolts diagonally, then everything will fall into place ...

Carefully inspect the contents and remember (you can take a photo) what stood where and how (more attention should be paid to the position of the cylinder). You can twist the power steering pulley and gently check with tweezers how the blades move in the grooves of the shaft.

All parts should be pulled out without effort, since they do not have any fixations, but the central axis is fixed rigidly, it cannot be removed.

We inspect the shaft from the back side, parts (power steering body and cover wall) touching them, for scoring or grooves, everything is perfect for me.

Now we take out the entire internal economy on "clean" rags and begin to study it.

We carefully examine the shaft, all its grooves have very sharp edges on all sides.One of the end sides of each groove has a pronounced sharpening inward, which, when the blade moves inside the groove with a constant slope to this side, will greatly complicate its movement (this may be the first component of the poor operation of the power steering). The lateral parts of the grooves of the shaft are also "sharpened", this can be felt if you slide your finger in different directions along the end (outer circumference), as well as along the lateral parts of the shaft in different directions. The rest of the shaft is perfect, does not have any flaws and notches.

The faults were found, now we are starting to eliminate them.

We need a rag, white alcohol, sandpaper with a grit of P1000 / P1500 / P2000, a triangular file, a 12mm drill (or more) and an electric drill. With the shaft, everything is much simpler, you need a P1500 sandpaper and we begin to clean all the edges of the grooves on the shaft (we clean the outer and lateral on both sides) in all possible ways. We work without fanaticism, the main task is to remove only sharp burrs.

For one thing, you can immediately polish both sides of the shaft on a flat surface, it is advisable to use P2000 sandpaper.

Next, you need to check the result of our work, check it visually and by touch, everything is perfectly smooth and does not cling.

The most difficult thing will have to do with the surface of the cylinder, I personally have nothing simpler, I have not figured out how to make a spherical grinder from a skin, a drill and a thick drill (F12). To begin with, we take a P1000 skin and such a drill, which can be crammed into a drill.

Next, you need to tightly wind the skin against the rotation of the drill, in two or three turns, there should be no gaps.

Holding the tightly twisted structure, you need to insert it into the drill (clamp the skin too).

Then, in the most convenient ways for you, we carefully begin to grind the cylinder, you need to grind evenly, press the cylinder tightly and move it relative to the axis of rotation (at maximum speed). As the skin is eaten, we change it, as a result we reach the smallest skin P2000.

The desired result is obtained,

now everything must be thoroughly wiped with a path with white alcohol. The shaft itself with blades can be rinsed in it.

After we start the assembly, everything is put in the reverse order of removal.

Thanks for the question! There is a reason to close the gaps in education. (below is a link where you can learn more about power steering)

1 - Power cylinder
2 - the Piston of a steering rack
3 - Steering rack rod
4 - the shaft of the driving gear
5 - Tube a A
6 - Tube B
7 - Rotary control valve
8 - the Steering shaft
9 - a steering wheel
10 - Valve sensitive to pressure changes
11 - the reservoir of a hydraulic fluid
12 - Vane pump
13 - the Reduction valve
14 - Hose B
15 - the flow control valve
16 - Engine
17 - Pump assembly
18 - Hose A
19 - Camera A
20 - Camera B

Over the years, cars have received many additional systems that provide driving comfort. One of them is the power steering, which is now installed not only on expensive cars, but also on some configurations of the budget Daewoo Nexia.

The power steering itself is very convenient, with it the steering wheel turns incredibly easily and even during long trips around the city, your hands do not get tired. But, like any other, moreover, it is quite complex and highly loaded, the mechanism, the hydraulic booster requires periodic maintenance and is subject to a number of possible breakdowns.

Modern power steering consists of a fluid circuit, a reservoir, a pump and a hydraulic unit. It can also use electronic control units that allow you to distribute the load more intelligently, depending on the speed of the car (the slower - the more effort). The hydraulic unit consists of a double-sided cylinder with a piston, it is connected directly to the steering bipod.

With straight motion, the oil in the system constantly circulates in a circle without creating pressure on the piston. But when you turn the steering wheel, the rotary valve also moves, which changes the distribution of oil on both sides of the piston.On the one hand, the pressure is built up, and from the other, the oil is pumped out into the reservoir. The increased hydraulic pressure moves the piston, which pushes against the steering arm and removes some of the steering wheel force.

Schematically, the system in Daewoo is relatively simple, but all of its elements operate under high load, which leads to relatively frequent leaks of hydraulic fluid. Also, the pump or its individual elements, for example, a belt, may fail.

Power Steering Hydraulic Pump for Daewoo Nexia

The most common problem with power steering on Daewoo Nexia is oil leakage. Periodically, oil seals rot or wear out in the system, from where oil begins to leak. In fact, almost all power steering systems are subject to a similar problem.

Drivers often do not pay attention to small leaks in a couple of drops of oil. But any small leak will sooner or later develop into a full-fledged leak, and you may be left without hydraulic fluid in the middle of the road, which will lead to damage to the pump and generator.

The Daewoo Nexia has two standard places for power steering leaks: in the pump area and near the pedals, at the driver's feet. In the case of a pump, you need to accurately find the place of the leak, it can be both the hoses and their connections, and the pump itself, then you will have to disassemble it and change the gaskets. And if a leak is found in the area of ​​the pedal assembly, then you need to buy a set of new oil seals and replace them.

Another popular problem is pump failure. There may be many reasons, but the pump is simple in design, easily disassembled and you can either replace it completely or purchase individual parts.

Belt leading to the power steering pump on Daewoo Nexia

Also, when turning the steering wheel on Daewoo Nexia, noise or whistling may appear. This problem is definitely related to the power steering, but it is not always possible to determine the source of the noise. First of all, you need to check the belt leading to the pump. It could sag, wear out or get dirty in oil, which causes slippage, in which case everything is solved by replacing. If it's not about the belt, then it's worth checking the pump bearing.

The power steering requires certain maintenance, in particular, you need to periodically change the fluid. The difficulty is that the exact mileage figures for Daewoo are not indicated anywhere. Many drivers drive 100 thousand kilometers or more, but this is not recommended, the community of Nexia owners agreed that the fluid needs to be changed every 50 thousand kilometers.

The procedure is relatively simple, you will need a set of simple tools (wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers), a few empty dishes, rags and gasoline. You also need hydraulic fluid or transmission oil for automatic transmissions.

When replacing, you need to raise the front of the Nexia, open the hood and find the power steering fluid reservoir. You can drain the oil from it in two ways - immediately disconnect the pipe and quickly substitute a relatively large vessel so that oil does not flood the entire engine compartment. But motorists recommend buying a rubber bulb at the pharmacy and pumping out the oil from the tank with it, and only then disconnecting the hoses, so there are less risks.

Changing fluid in power steering Daewoo Nexia

After the oil is drained, the hoses of the system must be immediately put into a collection container and, with the engine turned off, turn the steering wheel in both directions until it stops, this will help drain the oil from the circuit.

It is best to rinse the removed tank with regular gasoline. It is worth noting that there is a filter inside the Nexia tank, it cannot be removed, but it can be unscrewed and washed inside the tank.

Then you need to return the tank to its place, connect the hoses and fill in new fluid to the maximum mark. After that, you need to turn the steering wheel of your Daewoo from stop to stop again, some of the oil will go away and you will need to add more, and then turn the steering wheel again. If the level has dropped again, top up again to max (the liquid level must be watched with the wheels aligned exactly).But this is not all, after the oil is poured, you need to start the car and turn the steering wheel again from lock to lock and check the level again.