DIY Chevrolet Lanos power pump repair

In detail: do-it-yourself Chevrolet Lanos power pump repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

We remove the power steering pump for its repair or replacement, as well as when replacing the timing belt, removing the coolant pump, replacing the camshaft oil seal.
We pump out the fluid from the power steering pump reservoir. Remove the air filter housing and set it aside along with the air duct (see Removing the Chevrolet Lanos air filter).
Remove the alternator drive belt (see Replacing the Chevrolet Lanos alternator drive belt).

Using the "17" wrench, unscrew the union of the discharge line tube, holding the union nut of the pump tube with the "22" wrench (for clarity, the cooling system hose is removed) ...

... and we remove the pipe of the discharge line from the pipe of the pump.
We close the openings of the tubes with suitable plugs.

Using pliers with long jaws, squeeze the clamp of the supply hose, slide the clamp along the hose and remove the hose from the pump nozzle.
We close the holes of the hose and the branch pipe with suitable plugs.

Using a 12 spanner spanner, unscrew the three bolts securing the power steering pump pulley, keeping the pump shaft from turning with an 8 hexagon (shown on the removed engine for clarity) ...

Using the "12" head, we loosen the tightening of the two bolts securing the pump housing to the cylinder block ...

... and move the pump away from the cylinder block in order to enable the top cover of the timing belt to be removed.
Remove the upper timing belt cover (see Checking the condition and replacing the Chevrolet Lanos timing belt).
We unscrew to the end the bolts securing the pump casing ... ... and remove it.
Install the power steering pump in reverse order.
We remove air from the hydraulic system (see Bleeding the power steering system of the Chevrolet Lanos).

Video (click to play).

Posted by Alex_aa on 12/24/2010 10:21 AM in the Tech Archive

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All-Ukrainian club LANOS KLAN was created with the aim of establishing communication between motorists, organizing a club community for thematic communication, meetings and other events.

All-Ukrainian club LANOS KLAN is a Club that has united absolutely different people from absolutely different parts of Ukraine, and even Russia and Belarus.

All-Ukrainian club LANOS KLAN was founded on March 1, 2005 by a small group of people who made a huge contribution to its development.

I will tell you how I repaired the power steering pump. But first, a little background.

The steering wheel on a cold car in summer and winter works flawlessly. But as soon as the car warms up, especially in summer, the steering wheel on the XX becomes very tight, as if the power steering is not there. In winter, this problem does not manifest itself so strongly, but it is still present. If you put it on the gas, the steering wheel immediately turns with ease (though not quite perfect, but still lighter). At the same time, the pump does not knock, does not ring, nor leaks, etc ... (do not take the snotty rail into account) the oil is fresh and perfect (especially, thanks to the state of the rail, it is updated regularly!), The cardan is lubricated and does not wedge!

In general, on the face of the sign of the lack of performance of the power steering pump with hot oil at XX. I didn't suffer for a long time, in the end I decided to deal with this problem, spent a lot of time, rummaged through the Internet, understood the principle of the pump, found a similar description and decided to sort out my "old" pump.

And so, first of all, we remove the pump, it is necessary to drain all the slurry from it (how to remove it and drain the liquid, I think everyone will figure it out), also, on the back cover of the power steering, you need to unscrew four bolts with a 14 head.

After we begin to carefully remove the cover, try not to damage the gasket (this gasket with an internal rubber seal), in the power steering body we leave the outer part of the "working ellipse cylinder" (hereinafter simply the cylinder). There is no need to be scared when the lid moves away from the case, it may seem that it is moving away due to the influence of the spring, during reassembly it will seem to you that it does not fit into place, just continue to carefully and alternately tighten the bolts diagonally, then everything will fall into place ...

Carefully inspect the contents and remember (you can take a photo) what stood where and how (more attention should be paid to the position of the cylinder). You can twist the power steering pulley and gently check with tweezers how the blades move in the grooves of the shaft.

All parts should be pulled out without effort, since they do not have any fixations, but the central axis is fixed rigidly, it cannot be removed.

We inspect the shaft from the back side, parts (power steering body and cover wall) touching them, for scoring or grooves, everything is perfect for me.

Now we take out the entire internal economy on "clean" rags and begin to study it.

We carefully examine the shaft, all its grooves have very sharp edges on all sides. One of the end sides of each groove has a pronounced sharpening inward, which, when the blade moves inside the groove with a constant slope to this side, will greatly complicate its movement (this may be the first component of the poor operation of the power steering). The lateral parts of the grooves of the shaft are also "sharpened", this can be felt if you slide your finger in different directions along the end (outer circumference), as well as along the lateral parts of the shaft in different directions. The rest of the shaft is perfect, does not have any flaws and notches.

The faults were found, now we are starting to eliminate them.

We need a rag, white alcohol, sandpaper with a grit of P1000 / P1500 / P2000, a triangular file, a 12mm drill (or more) and an electric drill. With the shaft, everything is much simpler, you need a P1500 sandpaper and we begin to clean all the edges of the grooves on the shaft (we clean the outer and lateral on both sides) in all possible ways. We work without fanaticism, the main task is to remove only sharp burrs.

For one thing, you can immediately polish both sides of the shaft on a flat surface, it is advisable to use P2000 sandpaper.

Next, you need to check the result of our work, check it visually and by touch, everything is perfectly smooth and does not cling.

The most difficult thing will have to do with the surface of the cylinder, I personally have nothing simpler, I have not figured out how to make a spherical grinder from a skin, a drill and a thick drill (F12). To begin with, we take a P1000 skin and such a drill, which can be crammed into a drill.

Next, you need to tightly wind the skin against the rotation of the drill, in two or three turns, there should be no gaps.

Holding the tightly twisted structure, you need to insert it into the drill (clamp the skin too).

Then, in the most convenient ways for you, we carefully begin to grind the cylinder, you need to grind evenly, press the cylinder tightly and move it relative to the axis of rotation (at maximum speed). As the skin is eaten, we change it, as a result we reach the smallest skin P2000.

The desired result is obtained,

now everything must be thoroughly wiped with a path with white alcohol. The shaft itself with blades can be rinsed in it.

After we start the assembly, everything is put in the reverse order of removal.

Hydraulic power steering reduces the amount of effort required to steer the vehicle's wheels, which improves comfort and reduces driver fatigue.The inventor of the power steering is the American Francis Davis, who received a patent for his invention in 1925, and in 1950 the power steering was first installed on a serial Cadillac. The first power steering in the USSR began to be installed on the MAZ trucks, after which they appeared on the GAZ-66 and UAZ. Today, hydraulic power steering is installed in almost any passenger car. The development of technology does not stand still: the world famous Mercedes cars are equipped with a hydro-electric amplifier, and Opel has gone even further and installs an all-electric amplifier on its cars.

The photo shows the power steering, which increases driving comfort for the driver.

Power steering is a relatively simple and unpretentious mechanism in operation, which consists of:

a hydraulic pump, the main task of which is to pump oil and create operating pressure in the system
distributor, which is responsible for directing the oil to the desired chamber
torsion bar, which, by twisting in the right direction, supplies fluid to the distributor
a hydraulic cylinder responsible for converting the energy of fluid pressure into the translational movement of the piston. It is this unit that directly pushes the special rods, which help the driver to turn the steering wheel.

Like any machine unit, the power steering elements are subject to wear and tear and require both periodic maintenance and repair. The distributor, torsion bar and hydraulic cylinder are quite reliable parts and rarely fail, often amplifier malfunctions occur due to oil leakage as a result of mechanical damage to a plastic tank or oil pipes made of copper or aluminum. One of the most frequent breakdowns of the power steering is the failure of the pump: it is he who is subject to the greatest loads during the operation of the amplifier. It can fail as a result of untimely replacement of the amplifier fluid, which loses its properties during operation due to the appearance of impurities of metal shavings. Power steering assembly malfunctions are common as a result of vehicle operation with low power steering oil levels.

Video tutorial on what to do if the power steering pump howls

At different times, rotary, vane and piston pumps were installed on the machines, each of these designs has its own advantages and disadvantages. The rotary one has a high efficiency, but such designs have a very low resource, the piston one turned out to be expensive and quite whimsical in maintenance, therefore, it was the lamellar one that was most widespread.

The main pump malfunctions include:

leakage of working fluid through seal elements or glands;
noise and vibration as a result of bearing destruction;
decrease in discharge pressure.

Eliminating any of these faults will require removing the power steering from the vehicle. Do-it-yourself power steering pump repair is a rather difficult task, but it is quite a feasible task if you have the necessary tools and locksmith skills. Usually, there are no difficulties, we recommend using the vehicle's operating instructions, as well as carefully writing down or photographing the sequence of the removal and disassembly process in order to avoid possible problems during its assembly. It is easier to remove the power steering from a car in which there is a lot of free space in the engine compartment, for example, a GAZelle, but to remove the power steering from an Audi 100 or Chevrolet Lanos car, especially with a 1.5-liter engine, considerable skill is required. In any case, after removal, the pump must be thoroughly flushed from external contamination, check the condition of the housing and make sure there are no cracks on it.

If the fluid level in the power steering reservoir drops, this is a sign of a leak.

The power steering system is hermetically sealed, a decrease in the fluid level in the power steering reservoir necessarily indicates a leak.First you need to find the place from which the fluid is leaking. Very often, such a place is the elements of the pipe connection, a crack in a plastic oil tank. The most common place for fluid leaks is the power steering pump oil seal or its seals. Repairing such a malfunction will take a little time; to eliminate it, it is necessary to disassemble the pump and replace the worn-out seals and oil seals. It is worth paying attention to the condition of the shaft in the place where the oil seal is installed. If grooves or pits appear on it, then the gland will not fit snugly and leakage may reoccur. In this case, it is necessary to polish the shaft, but there are times when the wear is too great and it is not possible to achieve a tight seal of the oil seal, then installing an oil seal with a smaller inner diameter or replacing the shaft with a new one can help. In large cities, such as Moscow or St. Petersburg, there will be no problems with buying it, but in the provinces, the shaft will have to wait from several days to weeks, it is also worth considering the rather large price of this part from sellers.

Noise in the booster system can be caused by wear on the shaft bearings. If noise appears, it is necessary to eliminate it as quickly as possible, otherwise the shaft bearing may completely collapse, which will cause it to skew, which in turn can cause severe damage to the housing. Very often, such a malfunction occurs due to excessive tension on the hydraulic pump belt, which as a result causes excessive stress in the bearings and leads to their destruction. You can also replace bearings yourself. First, you need to remove the worn bearings, then press two new ones into the pump housing and cover, then put them on the shaft. When replacing bearings, be sure to replace the oil seals and gaskets.

Read also: DIY rear caliper repair

The reasons for the decrease in pressure may be the wear of the ellipse of the inner cylinder or the rotor blades themselves, however, the resource of these parts is hundreds of thousands of kilometers, and sometimes they do not have to be changed at all during the entire operation period, as, for example, for Ford Fusion or Ford Focus 2. Much more A common cause of pressure loss is sharp burrs on the rotor that prevent the blades from working properly. As a result, they may not fully come out of their grooves or they may even jam, which will cause a decrease in pressure. The repair in this case is quite simple - it is necessary to process the sharp edges of the rotor at the point of attachment of the blades with sandpaper or a grindstone.

Previously, I did not drive a car with power steering and did not even imagine how it makes life easier for the driver. Indeed, before Lanos I had only cheap domestic cars, and even now it is far from the most expensive, albeit a foreign car. But then at work I took a ride in a car with power steering. The sensations were such that I immediately decided to set myself something like that.

Installing a new steering rack. And at that moment I very much regretted that I had not immediately raised the car. Still, I had to raise the body. We remove the wheel, install the rail.

In principle, it was possible to install the rail through the top, and I practically succeeded in doing it, but did not have enough patience. We fix the rail to the car body, after that we make the connection with the steering shaft coupling. We wrap it to the traction rail. The question seems to have been resolved with the rail. Now we will have an operation to install the power steering without removing the timing belt. We remove the alternator belt along with the upper timing belt cover.

In the event that a pulley is installed on the pump, it must be removed. Before installing the pump, you need to tap the thread under the suitable bolts that fix the pump, otherwise you will not be able to tighten the bolts, and if they screw up, they may break.As for the pump, I tried to install it for an hour, finally I managed to do it and I fixed it as soon as possible. We remove the battery and the platform, after that we stretch the tubes.

We turn off the expansion tank, we remove it to the side. We wrap the tubes to the rail, insert the supply hose to the high pressure tube. We stick in the return and supply hose to the tank. We put the power steering reservoir and the expansion tank in place. We install everything that was removed earlier, pour liquid into the power steering tank, start the engine, add liquid if necessary.

We remove the power steering pump for its repair or replacement, as well as when replacing the timing belt, removing the coolant pump, replacing the camshaft oil seal.

We pump out the fluid from the power steering pump reservoir. Remove the air filter housing and set it aside along with the air duct (see Removing the air filter).

Remove the alternator drive belt (see Replacing the alternator drive belt).

Using the "17" wrench, unscrew the union of the discharge line tube, holding the union nut of the pump tube with the "22" wrench (for clarity, the cooling system hose is removed) ...

... and we remove the pipe of the discharge line from the pipe of the pump.

We close the openings of the tubes with suitable plugs.

Using pliers with long jaws, squeeze the clamp of the supply hose, slide the clamp along the hose and remove the hose from the pump nozzle.

We close the holes of the hose and the branch pipe with suitable plugs.

Using a 12 spanner spanner, unscrew the three bolts securing the power steering pump pulley, keeping the pump shaft from turning with an 8 hexagon (shown on the removed engine for clarity) ...

Using the "12" head, we loosen the tightening of the two bolts securing the pump housing to the cylinder block ...

... and move the pump away from the cylinder block in order to enable the top cover of the timing belt to be removed.

Remove the top cover of the timing belt (see Checking the condition and replacing the timing belt).

We unscrew to the end the bolts securing the pump casing ... ... and remove it.

Install the power steering pump in reverse order.

Replacing the bearing of the pump of the power steering of Chevrolet Aveo No. 47.

Replacing the power steering pump Lanos

Alteration of the hydraulic booster Daewoo Lanos 1.5 to Lacetti 1.8

CHEVROLET LACHETI GURA PUMP REPAIR

Replacing gura fluid on a chevrolet lanos

Repair of a steering rack with power steering for Chevrolet and Daewoo

Power steering pump repair, for all GM brands

Why is the power steering pump humming?

Power steering pump Chevrolet Aveo 1.6.

C hevrolet Lanos, Daewoo Lanos, Doninvest Assol, ZAZ Chance - all these are the names of one entity, the production of which in Ukraine began back in 1998 thanks to the resourcefulness of the Zaporozhye leaders of the once giant plant of the former Soviet Union. So today Lanos drove into our workshop box with a 1.5-liter engine, power steering and air conditioning (and believe me, we are not idly bragging about the complete set of the car).There are no more or less critical elements in the engine, but still there is a mechanism, the incorrect assembly of which can only be revealed after the installation is completed and the engine is attempted to start. Yes, it is trying - and often.The problem is a terrible coolant leak - most likely from under the pump. Therefore, the method of treatment was chosen clearly: replacing the water pump of the engine cooling system (aka the pump), and with it, and timing belt (gas distribution mechanism). In this case, the roller of the compressor drive belt tensioner was also replaced, the bearing of which made a noise, saddening the owner.

So, having diagnosed and prepared, let's get to work.Since we are changing the coolant pump, the first step is to drain the coolant from the system. It should be remembered that it is made on the basis of ethylene glycol, and therefore is very toxic - try to avoid getting the liquid in your eyes and mouth. In addition, do not reuse the drained coolant - after completion of work, fill the system with fresh coolant. When draining, note the color of the liquid - it indirectly speaks of the type of antifreeze, and the one purchased for replacement should have the same color.Note for lovers to do everything with their own hands: since it is not possible to remove the front timing belt covers without removing the air filter housing assembly, then the replacement of the filter element should be laid down initially.Draining the coolant, we unscrewed the top cover mounting bolts and ... for now, we stopped at this. Why? The designers were so carried away when installing the power steering pump that they did not take into account one trifle, which the pioneers of Lanos repair then thought with annoyance. The "trifle" is as follows: without loosening the power steering pump mounting bolts, you will not be able to disconnect the top cover from the bottom one. Rather, it will work, but in 9 out of 10 cases with a breakdown of the lower projections of this cover. By the way, an indicator of experience for you will be what will be the actions of the mechanic at the service station when the situation described above occurs. In our case, the car was previously serviced by a serviceman who did not fall into that percentage of statistics that would have a beneficial effect on the integrity of the cover, so we removed it without releasing the pump mounting bolts.We select the key and release the bolt securing the generator to the adjusting guide, thereby releasing the tension on the drive belt.Now we remove the generator drive belt and check its technical condition, and then go to the power steering pump (GUR). To begin with, we unscrew the bolts of the pump pulley - this is not difficult, and we will not focus on this.Further, without any special problems, albeit with slight discomfort, we unscrew the mounting bolts of the pump itself.In order to gain access to the pump, we need to remove the rear timing belt cover, but it is impossible to do this without removing the pump. And it is at this moment that difficulties begin.You can, of course, bow low at the feet of ZAZ for the air conditioner in the car, but no one will put up a monument for those who passed the refrigerant line hose above the pump, limiting both access and visibility. Also, when trying to remove the ill-fated pump, the engineer had to hiccup, who decided that the drain hose from the power steering pump, held under the engine mount, would be very appropriate there.In order to somehow untie our hands, we unscrew the nut and disconnect the injection pipe from the pump.However, you will have to remove the crankshaft pulley to access the drain hose. After that, we simply disconnect the hose from the pump and drain the working fluid into a previously prepared container. This liquid cannot be reused, therefore you will have to stock up on fresh ATF.Having provided ourselves with additional incidental costs, we proceed to remove the pulley. First, remove the lower side engine boot by disconnecting it from the front right wheel arch liner. After that, by rotating the adjusting bolt, release the tension of the air conditioning compressor drive belt. Having completed these manipulations, we proceed to the bolt of fastening of the pulley itself.There are a number of special and universal devices for blocking the rotation of the crankshaft pulley, but we decided that this was a luxury, and therefore the device was a person who turned on the fifth gear and squeezed the brake pedal all the way. The bolt was removed and the crankshaft pulley removed.For example, we took a rather simple Renault Logan Renault K7M engine. Why this one? Firstly, it has eight valves, and secondly, replacing the belt on this motor will give a fairly objective picture, which.Another important note: after removing any drive belt, always check its technical condition.And note for yourself that the properties of the material from which the belt is made are very badly reflected by the ingress of oil products and coolant on it. Factory instructions, in principle, recommend replacing the belt when "unwanted" materials hit its surface.Now the war of nerves and physical training has begun. The power steering pump bolts are unscrewed - here it is in front of you, and there seems to be a gap, but it is not sufficient, and even this air conditioner line ... We succeeded in achieving success thanks to the "crowbar", with which we slightly raised the motor. But do not overdo it - the rubber part of the support can tear, which will radically change your idea of self-repair.Next, we unscrew the mounting bolt and remove the camshaft drive gear pulley, then unscrew the bolt and remove the timing belt tensioner.The belt is unhindered in your hands. To check the technical condition, we dismantle the crankshaft toothed pulley: the operation is generally optional, but in our case it confirmed the need to replace the pulley by producing its teeth. When the problems and throwing caused by the removal of the power steering pump are behind, you can relax a little and, by unscrewing the bolts of the rear timing belt cover, think about eternity.Yes, because now the back cover is removed, and nothing prevents you from taking a hex wrench and unscrewing the coolant pump clamping bolts.Here, too, there are no problems - the pump voluntarily falls out of the cylinder block. Sometimes, for the sake of truth, he sticks to it, but a couple of blows with a hammer (the pump is old, so you don’t feel sorry for him) solves the problem. Well, then the most interesting part of the "Marlezon ballet" begins - installation and assembly.To begin with, wipe the seat under the pump dry with a clean cloth.Then we install it in the cylinder block.

Read also: DIY voltage regulator repair

The instructions do not provide any sealants, the pump is supplied with a new O-ring, which can only be moistened with a little fresh coolant, if you know what position to put it in (more on this later), or, as the experienced ones recommend, lubricate with a little technical petroleum jelly.And the most interesting thing: there is an opinion among mechanics that the Opel engine, from which the Koreans took measurements at one time, did not have an automatic tensioner, and the timing belt was tightened due to the eccentric design of the water pump housing. To adjust the belt, it was necessary to rotate the pump housing in the cylinder block. Very comfortably. However, engineers from Korea made their own amendments and installed the tensioner, but the pump remained the same. Therefore, putting it simply “as is” will not work. In view of this, we mount the pump and screw in, but do not tighten, the bolts of its fastening, check the possibility of its movement, and then install the toothed pulleys of the camshaft and crankshaft.After that, we put in place the automatic timing belt tensioner and, finally, the belt itself.I repeat, this is a temporary measure, but still, at least approximately, set the phase marks. After everything is in place, we adjust the location of the pump in the block by rotating it clockwise or counterclockwise, while following the pointer on the tensioner. It is necessary to stop the adjustment after the pointer is set in the middle of the sample on the plate (this can be clearly seen in the photo).Turn the crankshaft two full turns and check that the pointer on the tensioner has not moved. It did not move with us, therefore we fixed the tensioner in this working condition by installing a key (or just a suitable rod) in the holes for this purpose.Now we remove the belt and tensioner again, tighten the pump mounting bolts and install the rear timing belt cover, securing it with bolts.Then we put in place the camshaft and crankshaft toothed pulleys - this time we tighten the mounting bolts completely.We install, without removing the locking rod, the automatic tensioner and tighten the bolt of its fastening.Having secured everything "outright", carefully and finally set the timing marks.To do this, we combine the mark on the crankshaft toothed pulley with the selection on the back cover, we do the same with the camshaft gear and install a new timing belt. By the way, there are arrows on it that indicate the direction of its movement - it is in accordance with them that the timing belt must be installed. Here you will have to make a lot of effort and attention so as not to confuse the installation of marks. Having turned the crankshaft one revolution, you need to make sure that the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft gear are aligned with the selections on the cover - if this is not the case, then remove the belt and set the marks again. We were lucky - there was no repeated withdrawal.Therefore, after the torment of installation, we remove our key from the tensioner and once again turn the crankshaft a full turn. The tensioner indicator is in place, but the mark on the camshaft toothed pulley is just a little "gone". But, as practice has shown, after a little grinding in of all new parts, including the belt, the mark will return to its place. The last obstacle is the ill-fated "life simplifier" called the power steering pump.Installing it took a little less time than removing it. After installing the pump, we tightened its mounting bolts and connected the tube and hose of the amplifier system. Then the work went so simple that there was even no point in taking photographs.Our main focus today will be exclusively on the modern design of steering gears for passenger cars - rack and pinion. And the hydraulic amplifier installed in their considerable share is how much.We installed the lower and upper timing belt covers, installed a new A / C compressor drive belt tensioner, installed and tensioned the attachment drive belts. There are no special instructions here - except just to remember to do it. The filter housing is in place, a new filter element and a protective dust cover are also. Everything!No, almost everything. Remember we drained the coolant and ATF? There is no way without them, therefore we fill the system with fresh coolant and add the required amount of ATF to the expansion tank of the power steering system. When removing the pump from it, for the sake of universal gravity, part of the working fluid leaked out, therefore, when the engine is first started, you will hear a buzzing, painful for the car owner's hearing - but you should not be upset. The main thing is to top up the working fluid in time and, while the car is at a standstill, turn the steering wheel from one extreme position to another in order to "expel" air from the system.After draining the coolant, it is also worth letting the engine run a little, warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan should work a couple of times) and, if necessary, add coolant to the required level. This, perhaps, is all.All this work took half a day and did not require any special tools, except for socket and box wrenches. Therefore, we can say with confidence that the operations described above can be performed independently, but with the necessary means (jack, supports, tools) and a certain physical fitness.

Replacing the bearing of the pump of the power steering of Chevrolet Aveo No. 47.

Replacing the gur lacetti pump

How to remove the power steering pump pulley at home with your own hands)))

Alteration of the hydraulic booster Daewoo Lanos 1.5 to Lacetti 1.8

The power steering pump howled. What to do? There is an exit!

The Chevrolet Lanos is truly a people's car. Inexpensive, reliable, from a renowned manufacturer - these qualities are determined by the love of many motorists for this model.But any car, regardless of its driving performance and manufacturer, requires periodic repair and maintenance. Consider the main cases of breakdowns leading to the repair of the power steering of a Chevrolet Lanos.

Complete diagnostics of power steering after removal and disassembly.

If we make repairs, then this is included in the cost of work.

Complete diagnostics of the STEERING RACK.

If we make repairs, then this is included in the cost of work.

Souring of the lower steering universal joint. This part is located near the steering rack, and often fails in winter or early spring, due to the ingress of various acids and mixtures that sprinkle the roads in the winter season.
Replacing the power steering fluid. Power steering fluid works under high pressure, and therefore quickly loses its properties. Regular fluid replacement will significantly extend the operating time of the unit, and delay the moment when the power steering of the Chevrolet Lanos needs to be repaired.
Small jerks when turning the steering wheel. In some cases, jerking may also be accompanied by a whistle from under the hood. If the jerking was accompanied by a whistle, it is necessary to tighten the power steering belt, or even replace it. If there are jerks and hum from the pump, it is likely that a serious repair will be required to repair the power steering of the Chevrolet Lanos.
A rather rare case is a leak from the power steering lines. If the hose is leaking, it must be replaced with a new one. Repair in this case is impractical, and often completely impossible.

The power steering is a fairly reliable unit, and often the cause of a breakdown is an irregular technical inspection of the car, or an outdated or low-quality part, if the car is already "aged".

Despite the abundance of relevant literature, video tutorials, and other materials, it is strongly recommended that repairs be carried out by specialists. Often, the car owner is offered either to repair the unit, if there is such an opportunity, or to replace spare parts with new ones. Only experienced mechanics will be able to correctly install and adjust the power steering, and besides, you do not need to buy a special (and quite expensive) tool.

If you notice malfunctions in your steering system, reduced ease of movement, jerks, whistles, or something else - contact our specialists for advice.

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The Lanos car (first "Daewoo", then "Chevrolet", now "ZAZ" Lanos) is assembled in Ukraine at the Zaporozhye Automobile Building Plant. In the factory configuration, the car has a steering with a rack-and-pinion steering mechanism. The steering system can be additionally equipped with a power steering (GUR) and an airbag. This increases the price of the car somewhat (by about $ 450 at the original price of $ 8,850), but increases the comfort and safety.

In addition to the fact that the steering wheel is easier to turn with the power steering, the power steering ensures smoothing of shock loads transmitted to the steering gear from potholes on the road. In this case, the car obeys the steering wheel better and keeps the chosen direction. Attempts to turn the wheels out of the road in the other direction are opposed by the hydraulic system of the power steering, since the impact comes from the opposite side - not from the steering wheel, but from the wheels.

The spool mechanism of the hydraulic power steering is designed in such a way that it automatically works against unauthorized turning of the wheels. In a similar way, it will work if the wheels begin to turn out in the event of a sudden breakdown. At the same time, the impact from the steering wheel on the driver will soften and he will be able to hold it without problems.

With the hydraulic booster, the driver gets much less tired. Many people put power steering on Lanos simply because it is hard to turn the tight steering wheel and by the end of the day the hands literally “fall off”. But, when installing the power steering on Lanos, it is necessary to remember about some of the negative consequences of such an event.

The installation of a hydraulic booster, the pump of which is powered by a car engine, will begin to absorb some of the power of this motor. The power steering pump works constantly, creating the required working pressure in the hydraulic system, although the power steering itself is activated only when the steering wheel is turned. In other words, the power steering pump wastes engine power.

Video (click to play).

Moreover, the more actively the engine works, the faster the car goes, the proportionally more power goes to the power steering pump. But at high speed the steering wheel of a car is not difficult to turn, such power on the hydraulic booster is not needed. In this case, one unpleasant phenomenon arises. The driver ceases to feel the steering wheel turn. To prevent such situations, it is recommended to install a power steering with the ability to adjust the gain.

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