In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a Subaru Forester gur pump from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The background is as follows: I drove my Legacy, drove .. But I'm tired of the fact that the power steering buzzes loudly enough when turning the steering wheel. The steering wheel is spinning normally, but the sound got out. A complete fluid change was made - it did not help. I found out about the repair of the power steering - they only said to install a new or contract one. New - 17 thousand rubles, contract - 5-7. I decided to sort it out with my own hands. I thought maybe some bearing was buzzing .. Or something else. In all manuals, it is listed as a non-collapsible element. But I decided to give it a try.
Let's make a reservation right away. after repair the scoundrel, and squeals. Although now almost inaudible, in the winter in the sense. Strongly he pecked my brain in the summer. So let's see what happens in the warm season
Regarding air leaks: I checked it. After the repair of the engines, when the gur was also removed and installed, it began to buzz and bite harder. Bubbles went into the dextron tank. Several days passed, and the oxygen cocktail from the tank did not think to leave. After that, he unscrewed the drive hose (which in the manual recommended not to unscrew, but to remove the clamp and pull off the hose itself) and missed the same rubber sealing ring with a sealant. The cocktail is gone, the snacks are gone, the noise is gone. Chronic buzzing remained.
1. Remove the air duct interfering with us. To do this, remove the two clips holding it, and pull it towards ourselves without fanaticism. It will come out of the air box
2. Then, to get to the power steering pump, it is necessary to remove the covers of the drive belts. Unscrew the following bolts. I recommend putting everything in a separate box. Moreover, preferably with compartments, so as not to confuse the bolts from different nodes
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Video (click to play). |
3. We get access to the bracket on which the power steering pump and generator are mounted. Now we unscrew the tension bolt of the generator to remove the drive belt
4. In theory, after that it is likely to be able to remove the belt. But my generator mounting bolt was tightened quite tightly, so in order to remove the belt, I also had to unscrew it.
5. Now you need to unscrew the bolts that hold the pump bracket. Theoretically, it is possible to unscrew the pump itself in place, but it seemed to me more convenient to first remove it together with the bracket. Why - it will be seen a little later. To remove the bracket, you need to unscrew 3 bolts. In the next picture, the arrows show where they are located. I’ll make a reservation right away: I don’t have a plug, which is shown in the diagram (apparently, some kind of modification). The bolt under the number 1 is unscrewed with a head with an extension and a ratchet. But bolts 2 and 3 are quite inconveniently located, so I removed them with an angle wrench (a key, and at the end the head is on a hinge). For those who will forget where which bolt was: # 1, # 3 - short, # 2 - long.
6. Remove the bracket on which the belt covers are held (I have an alarm ground on the same bolt, so do not be surprised at the wires)
7. Now is the time for one of the wettest stages. It is necessary to remove the hoses that supply fluid to the system (well, and drain, respectively). The hose, which in the photo will be below, can be unscrewed. There is a copper gasket, when everything is put back - the bolt can be tightened a little more - it will tighten. If you wish, you can find a replacement in any auto parts store of the required diameter. But I recommend removing the upper hose (after removing the clamp), since if you unscrew the bolt, there will be a small rubber O-ring. Firstly, there is a very high chance of losing it or tearing it, and secondly, it may be difficult to put it back tightly.
8. After these manipulations, I got the following picture.I highly recommend wiping the leaked dexron thoroughly, because if it remains in technical niches, it will get into the exhaust at the most inopportune moments .. Well, a smoke screen will appear in the cabin. It happened to me just yesterday, when I was climbing Divnogorsk hills
9. Further manipulations take place in more comfortable and sterile conditions - at home To get the power steering from the bracket, you need to remove the long bolt that secures the pump from the back side
And also two bolts on the front side. I did not capture this moment, so I bring them in the diagram.
The pump fits snugly in the bracket. In my case, there was a slight rotation around the imaginary axis, where before that there was a long bolt. Having examined the bracket several times from all sides for additional fasteners, and making sure that they were not there, he took the pump out of the bracket by lightly tapping the bracket with a wooden handle of a hammer.
10. Then unscrew the 4 bolts securing the back cover of the pump. I recommend tearing them out of their place even when the pump is in the bracket - it is more convenient to hold it. And they are twisted strongly enough
11. Having removed the back cover, I saw the following
What to look out for here: O-ring “1”. Be careful with it, otherwise the pump body will snot after assembly. Do not loose or damage the paddles “2”. They fall out of the shaft grooves very easily. And finally, the retaining ring “3”. Actually, this is the only thing that keeps the shaft from falling out of the pump.There were the biggest problems with it (remove it with screwdrivers without unbending it, without damaging the shape, so that it is suitable for further use)
12. Having disassembled the pump, I discovered for myself that there are no bearings at all! One single oil seal on the pulley side. Actually, I still do not understand why my pump is buzzing Outwardly, everything is fine. There are still suspicions about: 1) the valve; 2) on the steering rack (for example, if the valves are slightly open there and the pump always works under pressure as in the extreme position). Having washed all the insides, put everything back, put it on the car, refilled the dexron. It didn’t get any worse, although it’s better, too, unfortunately.
What you need to pay attention to:
The entire system of shafts and rings inside the pump is held on one cotter pin. He also will not let you assemble it all incorrectly (i.e. you can not worry about the holes and the channel that go to the valves - they will still fit together when you insert the cotter pin). And second, do not lose the rubber band (in the picture above)
I collected all the insides in a cup, rinsed with Dexron and assembled in the reverse order.
And more attention! The blades are actually not just rectangular, but have the following shape (although it is believed that they were so easily demolished)
Therefore, they need to be assembled with a square part inward (towards the shaft), and rounded out. If you mix it up, the wear of both the blades and the outer sleeve will increase.
- Q: Look at the entire steering rack, maybe there is an air leak or the system is simply air-filled, that's why it hums, I did not hum, but tapped, there are repair kits on my power steering, changed and everything went away, when I poured the slurry, it began to hum, I was told that like the air will be pumped and everything will be fine, hell there, I drove with a buzz for almost a month, then I took it myself on a running engine, I sharply loosened the slurry supply bolt and immediately tightened it, immediately the buzz disappeared, apparently the air came out (trubogriz)
- Q: Are you saying that you don't have a bearing on your shaft? Could it be hidden behind the oil seal? It was the bearing on my power steering that howled, I changed it and everything went away. Although, maybe your pump design is different, but it's still strange that there is no bearing. (dimka)
- Q: This is an ordinary vane pump, I thought that there was something more interesting in the GUR. It can make noise from wear on the blades and even wedge. Cheto I doubt about the ovality of the shoulder blades from one edge, it turns out that during operation they will be pressed towards the rectangular edge and rub against the side surface. Although it may be constructive. It's a pity not to see such details in the photo. I ask for the author's comments.
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- A: I didn’t quite understand how the blade will be rubbed with the rectangular end .. To make it a little clearer - the diagram shows the view of the blade from above (as it is installed in the system). Those. its rounded part is located towards the outer radius. Top view (very schematic)
- Q: Now it is clear, from the description I thought that I should look from the side of the plane. They became oval from work - worn out. And they also wear out along the plane of contact with the impeller, if the wear in this place is significant, they can skew and wedge the wheel. Only it seems to me that the power steering is not buzzing, you say it does not make noise without load, it means something else, maybe a rail. HuGo, usually on such pumps there is a pressure reducing valve in the casing, is it there?
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- A: Yeah, there is one. There are even two valves of some kind. I unscrewed one - there it turned out to be a big head to rip it from its place. In fact, it turned out that it was just a plug-bolt with a spring, which presses the outer rim (I do not know why), but it was not possible to break the second one from its place. The blue arrow indicates the one that was screwed
But this one did not work - he did not persist
It started with the fact that in the summer my steering wheel began to wedge a little. Inspection showed that it was necessary to tighten the belt and change the power steering fluid. After half a year of operation, the steering wheel began to wedge again and a luggy whistle appeared. Concerned about this issue, I found several articles (about Legacy Link: _Subaru_Legacy and decided to independently go through the whole gur and change everything again.) More detailed illustrations of fastening bolts in the article about Legacy.
Let's start. Disconnect the terminals from the battery.
1. The first step is to remove the air filter pipe: fasten with two pistons in front of the hood. And take it out. He will only get in the way.
2. We unscrew one bolt (in my opinion, 13) fastening the protection of the power steering belts, the generator and the kondeya.
3. Remove this protection. We get free access to attachments.
4. With a syringe with a tube, pump out all the liquid from the gur tank and unscrew the tank itself from the body.
5. For the convenience of work, we remove the generator, so that later you can wipe the block itself from ATF. To do this: loosen the fixing bolt and completely unscrew the tensioner. After that, pushing on the generator - remove the belt. Having unscrewed the long bolt (which the generator is attached to the block), gently tapping the generator with a rubber mallet, take it out.
6. The gur itself is attached with three bolts to the bracket on the block. For convenience, it is easier to remove the entire bracket. First, we unscrew the pain on the power steering, which secures the power steering tube. We take it out carefully - here the slurry will pour out. Next, we loosen the clamp and remove the second hose (the one that goes from the tank to the power steering). At this moment, it is better to substitute some container under it in order to drain the rest of the slurry.
7. The next step is to disconnect the power steering chip. There is a vertical bolt behind it. We unscrew it with a head with an extension cord. There are two more bolts 13 (left and right) under the power steering pulley. Having unscrewed them, we take out the entire power steering together with the bracket. We get full access to the front of the block. Photo:
8. Next, we continue to work on the table. We unscrew the three bolts and take out the power steering from the bracket. Photo of the bracket and photo of the power steering:
9. Turning the pump pulley - drain the remaining slurry. The pump shows the direction of rotation (counterclockwise arrow on the cover).
10. Having examined the pump, we come to the conclusion that the oil seal under the pulley is dry - and this is good news. This means that the reason for the puckering can lie either in the backlash of the stem, or because of the retaining ring on which the stem itself is held. And wedging of the stem itself can be due to wear of the vane vanes inside the pump. Unscrew the 4 bolts on the pump cover and carefully open it.
11. Please note that the black ring on the inside of the cover is a gasket. We examine it. I have it intact, so you don't have to change it. In general, there are repair kits for these gaskets. Having examined carefully the insides of the pump, twisting and shaking the stem, we come to the conclusion that everything is whole and there are no backlashes.The vane blades show wear and heat on the part where they come into contact with the pump body. Wear in the form of rounded edges. We take out the paddles and rinse them in ATF. Turn the shoulder blades upside down.
12. Pour some ATF into the pump and turn the stem several times. Putting everything together in reverse order.
13. Fill the tank with fresh ATF and start the engine. The whistle starts - this is due to the airiness of the system. We scroll the steering wheel several times from lock to lock. And we give time for the car to idle. Residual air must go off into the expansion tank by itself. If not, then for a short time (with a quick movement of your hands) you can slightly unscrew and tighten the bolt of the tube that goes to the pump housing. Hear a slight whistle - the air is out. This is one of the most difficult parts of the system to get rid of. Since the slurry in this place passes through the bolt into the tube along the L-shaped channel.
As a result, we get a light steering wheel without wedging and driving pleasure. Repair time is about 1.5 hours. The pump is still running. In general, this is a weak point for subariks. Officials change only in the collection. The price of a new pump is about 16 - 17 kr. Despite the fact that my friend is engaged in s / h - I was strangled by a toad to buy a new one.
I also want to note that steering wheel bites can be due to the steering cardinchik (about which a lot has been written), but once again lubricating it with good lubricant right from under the hood is not a problem. I wish everyone not to break down and have good roads.
I will tell you how I repaired the power steering pump. But first, a little background.
The steering wheel on a cold car in summer and winter works flawlessly. But as soon as the car warms up, especially in summer, the steering wheel on the XX becomes very tight, as if the power steering is not there. In winter, this problem does not manifest itself so strongly, but it is still present. If you put it on the gas, the steering wheel immediately turns with ease (though not quite perfect, but still lighter). At the same time, the pump does not knock, does not ring, nor leaks, etc ... (do not take the snotty rail into account) the oil is fresh and perfect (especially, thanks to the state of the rail, it is updated regularly!), The cardan is lubricated and does not wedge!
In general, on the face of the sign of the lack of performance of the power steering pump with hot oil at XX. I didn't suffer for a long time, in the end I decided to deal with this problem, spent a lot of time, rummaged through the Internet, understood the principle of the pump, found a similar description and decided to sort out my "old" pump.
And so, first of all, we remove the pump, it is necessary to drain all the slurry from it (how to remove it and drain the liquid, I think everyone will figure it out), also, on the back cover of the power steering, you need to unscrew four bolts with a 14 head.
After we begin to carefully remove the cover, try not to damage the gasket (this gasket with an internal rubber seal), in the power steering body we leave the outer part of the "working ellipse cylinder" (hereinafter simply the cylinder). There is no need to be scared when the lid moves away from the case, it may seem that it is moving away due to the influence of the spring, during reassembly it will seem to you that it does not fit into place, just continue to carefully and alternately tighten the bolts diagonally, then everything will fall into place ...
Carefully inspect the contents and remember (you can take a photo) what stood where and how (more attention should be paid to the position of the cylinder). You can twist the power steering pulley and gently check with tweezers how the blades move in the grooves of the shaft.
All parts should be pulled out without effort, since they do not have any fixations, but the central axis is fixed rigidly, it cannot be removed.
We inspect the shaft from the back side, parts (power steering body and cover wall) touching them, for scoring or grooves, everything is perfect for me.
Now we take out the entire internal economy on "clean" rags and begin to study it.
We carefully examine the shaft, all its grooves have very sharp edges on all sides.One of the end sides of each groove has a pronounced sharpening inward, which, when the blade moves inside the groove with a constant slope to this side, will greatly complicate its movement (this may be the first component of the poor operation of the power steering). The lateral parts of the grooves of the shaft are also "sharpened", this can be felt if you slide your finger in different directions along the end (outer circumference), as well as along the lateral parts of the shaft in different directions. The rest of the shaft is perfect, does not have any flaws and notches.
The faults were found, now we are starting to eliminate them.
We need a rag, white alcohol, sandpaper with a grit of P1000 / P1500 / P2000, a triangular file, a 12mm drill (or more) and an electric drill. With the shaft, everything is much simpler, you need a P1500 sandpaper and we begin to clean all the edges of the grooves on the shaft (we clean the outer and lateral on both sides) in all possible ways. We work without fanaticism, the main task is to remove only sharp burrs.
For one thing, you can immediately polish both sides of the shaft on a flat surface, it is advisable to use P2000 sandpaper.
Next, you need to check the result of our work, check it visually and by touch, everything is perfectly smooth and does not cling.
The most difficult thing will have to do with the surface of the cylinder, I personally have nothing simpler, I have not figured out how to make a spherical grinder from a skin, a drill and a thick drill (F12). To begin with, we take a P1000 skin and such a drill, which can be crammed into a drill.
Next, you need to tightly wind the skin against the rotation of the drill, in two or three turns, there should be no gaps.
Holding the tightly twisted structure, you need to insert it into the drill (clamp the skin too).
Then, in the most convenient ways for you, we carefully begin to grind the cylinder, you need to grind evenly, press the cylinder tightly and move it relative to the axis of rotation (at maximum speed). As the skin is eaten, we change it, as a result we reach the smallest skin P2000.
The desired result is obtained,
now everything must be thoroughly wiped with a path with white alcohol. The shaft itself with blades can be rinsed in it.
After we start the assembly, everything is put in the reverse order of removal.
Number of guests with me:
The topic is truly relevant for subaru. My pump started humming right after
after I started the car after the engine cap, a year ago. the steering wheel spun hard and jerky, there was foam in the tank.
gradually the pump got better and I hammered on it, but closer to autumn the pump began to die completely -
the first five minutes on a cold one, when trying to turn the steering wheel, a hellish howl was heard, the steering wheel did not spin, the liquid immediately foamed
well, just if you go straight ahead, the pump clearly howled at rpm more than 2000
the pump was washed from the outside for inspection and after 2 weeks it was evenly covered with a thin layer of oily dust, the sealing rubber in it was tireda little theory - if your gur howls, then this may be due to several reasons
1- howls worn pump bearing
2nd is a high-frequency vibration in the gur system, caused by pressure pulsations. this happens if
air enters the system, which leads to foaming of the liquid, air can only enter where it is
vacuum in the system, that is, in the tank, the delivery pipe to the pump and through the seals on the pump body
3- mechanical failure, wear of the pumping part of the pumpthis topic with foam has already been discarded 150 times on all forums and advice is given by the standard: you need to start with
what to put 2 clamps on the supply hose, change the ring on the inlet pipe of the pump itself and make sure
that there is no liquid bubbling in the tank, if the liquid is bubbling, then it captures air and it enters the system
this happens when the mesh-partition at the bottom of the tank breaksI did all this, the result was really zero, but many say it helped
also pressure pulsation can arise from the fact that due to the seals inside the pump that have lost
their properties. the pump through leaks begins to pump liquid inside itself, while I think it increases
foaming of the liquid.
These o explains why the pump howls more on a cold one and the steering wheel turns harder, and after warming up more or less
comes back to normal, The fact is that the coefficient of expansion of aluminum is on average 3-5 times less than the coefficient of expansion
rubber seals of the pump, with warming up tired rings swell and seal the gapsAs you know, subaru does not supply pump repair kits for cars after 2003, even a suction ring on STI GRB
the pump nozzle cannot be ordered, whether this is due to the greed of the management, or idiocy is difficult to say
I think both options are correct). BUT THANKS TO TIMUR, and this topic has been found a way out, let FTI managers now suck scrap from both ends,
it turns out that the pump insides on the fox from 255 and on the GRB from 257 (and probably on almost all Subaru with the showa pump) are completely identical to the insides
pump installed on most HONDA models, and HONDA, unlike Subaru, supplies a repair kit in the form
oil seal, bearing and all rubber bands for a little more, attention! 1 (one) thousand rublesa pump produced by showa - here it is a photo, I think it will not fit on KYB
the upper diagram is from the chord, the lowest is from the Honda FRV c 1.7, there is about the same rear pump cover as on the GRB
numbers from the accord 2006 pump 2 l motor K20Z2 what came to GRB
91349-PNC-J01 1
91348-P2A-003 1
91347-PLA-003 2 12.7x1.8
91347-PAA-A01 1
91346-PLA-003 1
91345-RJL-003 2 13 × 1.9
91345-PAA-A01 1
91344-PNC-003 1
91343-PNC-003 1
91249-PNC-003 1
91048-P2A-003 1There is a small ambush only in the back cover, on the GRB there are two round rings and on the chord there is a round one and a profile, they seem to differ slightly in diameter
I put 1 ring 12.7x1.8 and the other 13x1.9 seemed to stand up fine, but maybe initially there should be 12 and 13 rings
and there is no ring for the pressure sensor on the pump, I put an air conditioner that approached the diameterIn general, the design of the power steering pump makes a good impression, all working parts are made of steel! not aluminum
as on other pumps, the rotor plates have copper plating of the working surface of the edges, a sleeve-insert is installed in the back cover
under the shaft and not just a hole in the aluminum, that is, the design is by no means disposable. However, the design is functional only if the sealing
rings have not lost their elasticity
When disassembling my pump, I did not see any signs of wear at all,
some metal dust, there are scratches on the end of the outer steel ring but it looks more like
factory processing. I repeat, my pump has been running on foam for at least a year!In my opinion, this pump has 2 weak points - a bearing with an oil seal on only 1 side and rubber seals that tan from high temperature
repair of the pump can be done independently, no special tool is required, the only thing you need to have is a vice
the pump should be assembled easily, just as it was disassembled, if the back cover does not sit down, you do not need to knock on it with a hammer
you put together something wrong,
assembly instructions for disassembly, see chord 7
Do not trust animals to remove the pump, only trusted mechanics! , when removing, you can easily pour power steering oil directly into the timing
Another moment when assembling, immediately fill the pump with oil, I refused to work until they blew compressed air into the tank, only after that it sucked in oilResult: the steering wheel began to spin easily regardless of the temperature, the howl disappeared, there is no foam in the tank, there is a faint humming that is audible only if you listen
Having climbed through the hovercraft forums, I came to the conclusion that this repair kit is something like a consumable, 2 years old and needs to be changed again
but somehow it is more interesting to change the repair kit, especially if you do everything yourself than a new pump for 16,000 r
in general, whoever has such a problem is worth a try, again, judging by the reviews, it helps hondavods to almost everyone
in the future plans to put a tank with a filter ala msersedes W124 and forget about the power steering on your Subaru.
hondavody for beginners on the forum with foam at the mouth prove that only original Honda special fluid can be poured into the gur)
I tried different slurries, I think that if the system is working properly, it will work fine for any,
I think it is optimal to pour MOBIL ATF 320Once again, a separate respect TIMYR!
To make it easier for the driver to control the vehicle, in modern cars, a hydraulic booster is installed on the steering column. One of the main elements of this mechanism is a pump that pumps hydraulic fluid through the power steering system. During operation, it is exposed to heavy loads, therefore, it is periodically necessary to repair the power steering pump.
You can change this unit with your own hands. It is even possible to replace a failed bearing. In this case, the power steering pump repair kit will come in handy, which can be bought at any car store.
Before deciding to carry out repair work, it is necessary to check the presence of liquid in the tank, as well as the compliance of its brand with the approved one for use on this machine. Often, the cause of the signs of malfunction is the appearance of air locks in the system. Therefore, if you suspect this, it is necessary to pump the hydraulics, removing all air plugs. In this case, the efficiency of the power steering can be fully restored. If, when checking the quality of the working fluid, it is found that it does not meet the standard, it is necessary to change it to the fluid of the desired brand. In the case when a decision is made to repair the power steering pump, it is required to prepare a workplace and the necessary tools, as well as materials for carrying out the work:
- you need a key for "12", as well as heads for "14" and "24";
- you will need a snap ring puller;
- prepare in advance two copper washers, a gasket for the rear casing, O-rings, in the amount of two pieces and an oil seal, they can be replaced by a repair kit for the power steering pump;
- be sure to have a bearing marked "6202" and an outer diameter of 35 mm;
- to pump oil out of the tank, you need a large syringe and a container;
- clean the workbench and cover it with clean cardboard to disassemble the pump;
- prepare fine sandpaper and a cleaning cloth.
In order to remove the power steering pump and repair it with your own hands, you need to perform the following steps.
- Slightly loosen the axle bolt that secures the pump unit to the bracket using the hole in the pulley. Loosen the tensioner retaining nut completely and remove the belt.
- Using a syringe, pump out the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir. Turn the steering wheel right and left until it stops so that the oil is completely out of the system, do this several times to completely clean the pipelines.
- Loosen the clamp on the hose that runs from the expansion tank and remove this line.
- Remove the bolt that secures the high pressure hose from the pump to the system.
- Remove the axle bolt that secures the pump to the bracket and replace it with a screwdriver or a metal rod of a suitable diameter in order to lock the pulley. Then unscrew the nut that secures the pump pulley.
- Pull the released power steering pump unit up and put it in a specially prepared place. Remove dirt and oil from the unit housing.
- Remove the bearing retaining ring with a puller.
- Remove the rear cover mounting bolts. Gently pry it off with a small screwdriver and remove it, making sure that the rotor blades do not fall out of the housing.
- Take out the blades and put them on pre-prepared numbered pieces of paper so as not to confuse anything during assembly. Attention! Remember the position of the assembled blades. When installed in a housing, the rounded part of these blades must be turned outward.
- Remove the plate and all parts underneath.
- Drive out the shaft by tapping gently with a screwdriver.
- Press the bearing off the pump shaft.
- Change the unusable bearing for a previously prepared one.
- Check the parts of the pump set for defects and wear. Clean surfaces from dirt and roughness. Experts say - simple cleaning of internal parts reduces gaps and allows you to extend the operation of this unit without replacing any parts.
- Reassemble in reverse order. It is imperative to change the oil seal, O-rings and washers for new ones prepared in advance.
If it is difficult for you to fix the power steering pump with your own hands or there is no time for this, then it is possible to replace the power steering pump with a new one. This will significantly reduce the repair time. Also watch a video on the topic:
Remove the axle bolt that secures the pump to the bracket and replace it with a screwdriver or a metal rod of a suitable diameter in order to lock the pulley. Then unscrew the nut that secures the pump pulley.
