Do-it-yourself power pump repair Audi 100

Power steering. Analysis of the power steering. Replacing the power steering repair kit. Audi 100 C3 5 cyl.

For repairs we need:

1) Set of hexagons

4) Replaceable parts (when repairing the pump) *

The hydraulic steering pump formally consists of two parts - the rear and the front. The rear part consists of a hole for connecting a hose going to the handlebar and a plate with a serial number. In the front part there is a hole for the return hose (which leads to the can of liquid, located in the middle) and a hole for connecting the hose to the bag (pressure accumulator, is closer to the pulley).

Because repairing a pear is an expensive pleasure, and replacing it is twice as expensive, many replace the pear with a vacuum booster. It is budgetary and, if installed correctly, efficiently. To plug the hole, it is usually circulated to the can. But there is another more reliable way, but also more complicated, how to get the pistons opposite the hole, and plug the hole itself with a bolt (I did it myself, half a year the flight is normal, you can see in photo 2).

1) DRAIN LIQUID (Replacing_fluid_in_GUR) (approx. There are two types of fasteners for the bolts on the hoses, for copper rings and for rubber ones, they are NOT interchangeable (rings)).

2) If you need to remove the pulley (for example, to replace the oil seal) read on, if not, go to p3. The pulley is mounted on three bolts. We loosen, but do not twist.

3) Loosen the tightening on the bracket (important: when you assemble it back, the native bolt has a guide, it needs to get into the mount on the pump itself) and weaken the belt tension with the adjusting bolt. We throw off the belt (if, in order to throw off the belt, the adjusting bolt was not enough, there is a bolt on the bottom of the adjusting bar, unscrew it and the g / y will go down by itself). Remove the adjusting plate.

4) We take out the mounting bolt on the bracket.

5) Unscrew all the pipes, if not already removed.

6) Carefully take out the pump.

I don’t envy if you are going to change the repair kit without a vice. By the time of repair, you can add an extra 2 hours to tighten and unscrew.

We grip the pump in a vice and drove:

1) The main difficulty is represented by the HUGE bolts, under which the pistons are located. We unscrew them all (if memory serves 6). If you have a huge flathead screwdriver, you're in luck. If not, take a chisel, clamp it in a vice and, tapping on the edge of the bolt, very, very carefully unscrew it. We replace the rubber bands (you won't mix them up). We tighten it at least carefully so as not to disrupt the thread. There is such a disease, the upper thread breaks off. God forbid you to break it, it will shoot like a fountain. Out of inexperience, I pulled out the mount on the old pump (see photo 4).

2) Next, we change the oil seal. A puller is needed to replace the oil seal. You can't do without it. We remove the pulley, there we see a triangular flange (important: it is installed back with a protrusion towards the pulley), behind it is our oil seal. We replace the oil seal, assemble in the reverse order.

3) We unscrew the two long bolts with a hexagon (under them are the smallest 2 rings from the repair kit). Ideally, it is better to mark the position of the pump halves by scratching on the pump body between the rear and front parts (then it will be easier to put it back, we will immediately get into the mountings). After unscrewing, spread out a piece of cloth or cardboard (clean) and separate the halves. We replace six sealing rings from the repair kit (photo 1). We change the large O-ring. We collect.

What is important when assembling the pump:

Before placing the pump on the bracket, it is advisable to pour some liquid into the pump.So that the first time, while the system is pumping, it does not work dry. Do not overtighten the fasteners with copper washers (like mine). Bitter experience has shown how beautifully a mount can burst. And after that there is only one way out - replacing either the pump or the halves, as it was in my case (photo4). And someone under the rubber bands. Harder than the rubber can squeeze, you do not squeeze. If from under them there will be a little leak, this is not critical. If a month is 50ml. oil will go away, you will not become poorer. The age of the car should be understood after all.

We start by unscrewing the bolt securing the poly V-belt casing.

We loosen the bolts of the power steering pump pulley.

To get access to the bolts, we turn the pulley, loosening the tension of the tension roller, the key is 17.

In the same way as in the figure, we fix the tensioner by aligning the holes in the tensioner and inserting the pin there.

We unscrew the bolts of the power steering pulley to the end, remove the power steering pulley, set the poly V-belt to the side.

Remove the connector from the throttle potentiometer.

We loosen the clamps of the pipe from the intercooler to the intake manifold.

We loosen the clamp of the fluid supply hose to the power steering pump. Next, prepare a container for draining the power steering fluid, remove the hose and drain the fluid from the reservoir.

For better drainage, unscrew the lid and lift the power steering tank. It is necessary to remove the filter from the tank and thoroughly rinse the mesh, also, if necessary, rinse the tank with fresh power steering fluid.

We unscrew the bolt securing the pressure hose of the hydraulic brake booster system.

We unscrew the bolt securing the pressure hose of the hydraulic brake booster system, move the hose to the side. There are two rubber sealing rings on the hose, they must be replaced with new ones, they are not included in the pump repair kit.

Now you need to unscrew the banjo bolt securing the pressure hose of the power steering system, we also take the hose to the side. Similarly, you need to replace two copper O-rings that are not included in the repair kit.

We unscrew the bolts securing the power steering pump to the bracket.

We wash before disassembly from dirt.

We unscrew the plugs on the pump housing. Under the plugs are pistons, springs and guide rods of the brake booster circuit.

It is better not to confuse the pistons when assembling, so carefully fold the parts into two piles.

The next step is to unscrew the jets from the pump housing. We wash them and blow them with air.

We unscrew the four bolts holding the halves of the pump body. It is very important to remember how the halves are oriented relative to each other, this will be needed during assembly.

We unscrew the four bolts that hold the next halves of the pump body together.

The halves must be separated very carefully.

In the photo, the heart of the pump is a wheel with blades, it shows wear on the cover and blades, but nothing too bad - there are no seizures and grooves, the pump will still serve.

This is what the pump looks like when disassembled. If there is dirt or wear debris, it must be rinsed and parts cleaned before reassembly.

Let's start replacing the gaskets. We change them to new ones from the kit.

We connect the halves, focusing on the protrusions on the pump body, they must be combined.

Change the O-ring to a new one from the kit. We connect the remaining halves of the pump.

As well as O-rings on the jets, we install the jets into the pump housing, after having lubricated the rings with power steering fluid.

We change sealing rings on plugs, install pistons, springs, rods.

We tighten the plugs after lubricating the rings with power steering fluid.

To replace the pump shaft seal, press the triangular flange using a puller. If the flange is pressed in with great force and cannot be removed, and also if the oil seal does not leak, you can postpone its replacement. A new oil seal is included.

Tightening torques for assembly.

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This photo report considers power steering pump bulkhead (power steering) on ​​the Audi A100.

A simple procedure that everyone can do with their own hands with a minimum of technical knowledge.In this case, the reason for the overhaul of the power steering pump was the need to eliminate the leak on the A100 / S4. To do this, you will need a repair kit for a power steering double-circuit pump, containing an oil seal and O-rings. In the photo report, a repair kit with the number AU8001KIT was used, its average price is 1000 rubles, as of summer 2017 prices for Moscow and the region. For more details, see the report.

To make it easier for the driver to control the vehicle, in modern cars, a hydraulic booster is installed on the steering column. One of the main elements of this mechanism is a pump that pumps hydraulic fluid through the power steering system. During operation, it is exposed to heavy loads, therefore, it is periodically necessary to repair the power steering pump.

You can change this unit with your own hands. It is even possible to replace a failed bearing. In this case, the power steering pump repair kit will come in handy, which can be bought at any car store.

Before deciding to carry out repair work, it is necessary to check the presence of liquid in the tank, as well as the compliance of its brand with the approved one for use on this machine. Often, the cause of the signs of malfunction is the appearance of air locks in the system. Therefore, if you suspect this, it is necessary to pump the hydraulics, removing all air plugs. In this case, the efficiency of the power steering can be fully restored. If, when checking the quality of the working fluid, it is found that it does not meet the standard, it is necessary to change it to the fluid of the desired brand. In the case when a decision is made to repair the power steering pump, it is required to prepare a workplace and the necessary tools, as well as materials for carrying out the work:

• you need a key for "12", as well as heads for "14" and "24";
• you will need a snap ring puller;
• prepare in advance two copper washers, a gasket for the rear casing, two O-rings and an oil seal, they can be replaced by a power steering pump repair kit;
• be sure to have a bearing marked "6202" and an outer diameter of 35 mm;
• to pump oil out of the tank, you need a large syringe and a container;
• clean the workbench and cover it with clean cardboard to disassemble the pump;
• prepare fine sandpaper and a cleaning cloth.

In order to remove the power steering pump and repair it with your own hands, you need to perform the following steps.

1. Slightly loosen the axle bolt that secures the pump unit to the bracket using the hole in the pulley. Loosen the tensioner retaining nut completely and remove the belt.
2. Using a syringe, pump out the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir. Turn the steering wheel right and left until it stops so that the oil is completely out of the system, do this several times to completely clean the pipelines.

1. Loosen the clamp on the hose that runs from the expansion tank and remove this line.

1. Remove the bolt that secures the high pressure hose from the pump to the system.
2. Remove the axle bolt that secures the pump to the bracket and replace it with a screwdriver or a metal rod of a suitable diameter in order to lock the pulley. Then unscrew the nut that secures the pump pulley.
3. Pull the released power steering pump unit up and put it in a specially prepared place. Remove dirt and oil from the unit housing.
4. Remove the bearing retaining ring with a puller.
5. Remove the rear cover mounting bolts. Gently pry it off with a small screwdriver and remove it, making sure that the rotor blades do not fall out of the housing.

1. Take out the blades and put them on pre-prepared numbered pieces of paper so as not to confuse anything during assembly. Attention! Remember the position of the assembled blades. When installed in a housing, the rounded part of these blades must be turned outward.

1. Remove the plate and all parts underneath.
2. Drive out the shaft by tapping gently with a screwdriver.

1. Press the bearing off the pump shaft.

1. Change the unusable bearing for a previously prepared one.

1. Check the parts of the pump set for defects and wear. Clean surfaces from dirt and roughness. Experts say - simple cleaning of internal parts reduces gaps and allows you to extend the operation of this unit without replacing any parts.

1. Reassemble in reverse order. It is imperative to change the oil seal, O-rings and washers for new ones prepared in advance.

If it is difficult for you to fix the power steering pump with your own hands or there is no time for this, then it is possible to replace the power steering pump with a new one. This will significantly reduce the repair time. Also watch a video on the topic: