To make it easier for the driver to control the vehicle, in modern cars, a hydraulic booster is installed on the steering column. One of the main elements of this mechanism is a pump that pumps hydraulic fluid through the power steering system. During operation, it is exposed to heavy loads, therefore, it is periodically necessary to repair the power steering pump.
You can change this unit with your own hands. It is even possible to replace a failed bearing. In this case, the power steering pump repair kit will come in handy, which can be bought at any car store.
Before deciding to carry out repair work, it is necessary to check the presence of liquid in the tank, as well as the compliance of its brand with the approved one for use on this machine. Often, the cause of the signs of malfunction is the appearance of air locks in the system. Therefore, if you suspect this, it is necessary to pump the hydraulics, removing all air plugs. In this case, the efficiency of the power steering can be fully restored. If, when checking the quality of the working fluid, it is found that it does not meet the standard, it is necessary to change it to the fluid of the desired brand. In the case when a decision is made to repair the power steering pump, it is required to prepare a workplace and the necessary tools, as well as materials for carrying out the work:
In order to remove the power steering pump and repair it with your own hands, you need to perform the following steps.
If it is difficult for you to fix the power steering pump with your own hands or there is no time for this, then it is possible to replace the power steering pump with a new one. This will significantly reduce the repair time. Also watch a video on the topic:
VIDEO
A very helpful article! And although I have a Hyundai H1 4x4 Starex 4WD, I think that these tips are very, very useful to me. My Gur is stuck (most likely - the bearing). Disassembled. As soon as I find a bearing and a repair kit for it, I will collect it. Wish I saw this article before. I had to suffer with unscrewing the return hose from the fitting. It was only necessary to put a wrench on the lower part of the fitting, and unscrew the upper one.
Very helpful article. I myself am now suffering with gur Ford EXP3 4.6. And howls and tight ... to sort out nodo ... There is already a mess in my head from studying and generally searching for information ....
K ia Spectra. REPLACING THE POWER STEERING PUMP
If the pump fails, replace it as an assembly, as repair requires special tools and equipment.
You will need: pliers, keys "12", "14", "22", a hammer.
1. Drain the power steering pump reservoir: “Replacing the power steering reservoir”, page 155).
2 Loosen the clamp that secures the fluid supply hose to the power steering pump pipe by squeezing the bent ears with pliers. Slide the clamp along the hose and disconnect the hose from the branch pipe (see "Replacing the working fluid and bleeding the power steering system", p. 151).
3 Remove the adjusting bolt.
4 .. unscrew the nut that secures the pump to the adjusting plate.
5. . remove the bolt and remove the tensioner slider.
6. Unscrew the bolt-union fastening the high pressure pipeline to the power steering pump union.
7.. And disconnect the pipeline
Take measures to prevent the leakage of hydraulic fluid from the pipelines by plugging them, for example, with wooden plugs.
8. Remove the nipple bolt from the high pressure pipe lug and remove the gaskets. Replace heavily crimped or deformed gaskets.
9. Slide the protective cover on the tip of the pressure sensor wire in the power steering system.
10. . and disconnect the tip of the wire from the sensor.
The pressure sensor in the power steering system almost never fails. If it is necessary to replace it, disconnect the wire from the sensor, unscrew the sensor from the pump housing and screw in a new one.
11 Remove the drive belt for the power steering pump and the air conditioning compressor ().
12. Remove the three bolts securing the power steering pump bracket to the engine block.
thirteen. . and remove the pump assembly with bracket.
14. Through hole 8 to the pulley of the power steering pump, unscrew the bolt securing the pump to the bracket ..
The Kia Spectra is a great car. Many car owners think so. This inexpensive car is of excellent quality. It behaves great on the road. This five-seater sedan was produced by the corporation from 2000 to 2004. In 2002, it became the leader in sales in the United States. In a short production period, he managed to fall in love with motorists in many countries of the world. That is why the Kia Spectra can be found on the roads of the world.
Complete diagnostics of power steering after removal and disassembly.
If we make repairs, then this is included in the cost of work.
Complete diagnostics of the STEERING RACK.
If we make repairs, then this is included in the cost of work.
But, like any other car, Kia is subject to various breakdowns. Sooner or later, this happens to any car. One of the most common malfunctions is a breakdown of the power steering. This unit facilitates the process of rotation of the steering disc, gives comfort while driving. There are two types of malfunction:
mechanical breakdowns - failure of parts.
hydraulic breakdowns occur due to improper use of fluids.
Power steering problems can occur for a number of reasons. The very first and most common is the untimely change of fluids or the use of the wrong brand that the car needs. Also, this can include sudden changes in temperature, air and dirt entering the system.
Even the youngest driver can spot a malfunction. It manifests itself in the appearance of gravity during the rotation of the steering wheel. If you saw that the steering disc began to behave "inadequately" - it's time to repair the power steering on the Kia Spectra.
Repair or maintenance of the power steering on a Kia Spectra should be done by a specialist. It may seem only at first glance that the control unit of the car is simple, and accordingly, it is also very easy to repair it. Unfortunately, this is not so. In order for the repair of the power steering on the Kia Spectra to give the expected result, it is worth contacting a specialist. The master will quickly, efficiently and with a guarantee carry out the reconstruction of the unit or make it a complete replacement.
If you saw that your car needs repair, call us and we will help you. You can also leave a request on the Internet portal. The company's employees will contact you and provide a preliminary consultation. Do not hesitate with the repair. The sooner you contact us, the faster your car will become "like new".
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I will tell you how I repaired the power steering pump. But first, a little background.
The steering wheel on a cold car in summer and winter works flawlessly. But as soon as the car warms up, especially in summer, the steering wheel on the XX becomes very tight, as if the power steering is not there. In winter, this problem does not manifest itself so strongly, but it is still present. If you put it on the gas, the steering wheel immediately turns with ease (though not quite perfect, but still lighter). At the same time, the pump does not knock, does not ring, nor leaks, etc ... (do not take the snotty rail into account) the oil is fresh and perfect (especially, thanks to the state of the rail, it is updated regularly!), The cardan is lubricated and does not wedge!
In general, on the face of the sign of the lack of performance of the power steering pump with hot oil at XX. I didn't suffer for a long time, in the end I decided to deal with this problem, spent a lot of time, rummaged through the Internet, understood the principle of the pump, found a similar description and decided to sort out my "old" pump.
And so, first of all, we remove the pump, it is necessary to drain all the slurry from it (how to remove it and drain the liquid, I think everyone will figure it out), also, on the back cover of the power steering, you need to unscrew four bolts with a 14 head.
After we begin to carefully remove the cover, try not to damage the gasket (this gasket with an internal rubber seal), in the power steering body we leave the outer part of the "working ellipse cylinder" (hereinafter simply the cylinder). There is no need to be scared when the lid moves away from the case, it may seem that it is moving away due to the influence of the spring, during reassembly it will seem to you that it does not fit into place, just continue to carefully and alternately tighten the bolts diagonally, then everything will fall into place ...
Carefully inspect the contents and remember (you can take a photo) what stood where and how (more attention should be paid to the position of the cylinder). You can twist the power steering pulley and gently check with tweezers how the blades move in the grooves of the shaft.
All parts should be pulled out without effort, since they do not have any fixations, but the central axis is fixed rigidly, it cannot be removed.
We inspect the shaft from the back side, parts (power steering body and cover wall) touching them, for scoring or grooves, everything is perfect for me.
Now we take out the entire internal economy on "clean" rags and begin to study it.
We carefully examine the shaft, all its grooves have very sharp edges on all sides. One of the end sides of each groove has a pronounced sharpening inward, which, when the blade moves inside the groove with a constant slope to this side, will greatly complicate its movement (this may be the first component of the poor operation of the power steering). The lateral parts of the grooves of the shaft are also "sharpened", this can be felt if you slide your finger in different directions along the end (outer circumference), as well as along the lateral parts of the shaft in different directions. The rest of the shaft is perfect, does not have any flaws and notches.
The faults were found, now we are starting to eliminate them.
We need a rag, white alcohol, sandpaper with a grit of P1000 / P1500 / P2000, a triangular file, a 12mm drill (or more) and an electric drill. With the shaft, everything is much simpler, you need a P1500 sandpaper and we begin to clean all the edges of the grooves on the shaft (we clean the outer and lateral on both sides) in all possible ways. We work without fanaticism, the main task is to remove only sharp burrs.
For one thing, you can immediately polish both sides of the shaft on a flat surface, it is advisable to use P2000 sandpaper.
Next, you need to check the result of our work, check it visually and by touch, everything is perfectly smooth and does not cling.
The most difficult thing will have to do with the surface of the cylinder, I personally have nothing simpler, I have not figured out how to make a spherical grinder from a skin, a drill and a thick drill (F12). To begin with, we take a P1000 skin and such a drill, which can be crammed into a drill.
Next, you need to tightly wind the skin against the rotation of the drill, in two or three turns, there should be no gaps.
Holding the tightly twisted structure, you need to insert it into the drill (clamp the skin too).
Then, in the most convenient ways for you, we carefully begin to grind the cylinder, you need to grind evenly, press the cylinder tightly and move it relative to the axis of rotation (at maximum speed). As the skin is eaten, we change it, as a result we reach the smallest skin P2000.
The desired result is obtained,
now everything must be thoroughly wiped with a path with white alcohol. The shaft itself with blades can be rinsed in it.
After we start the assembly, everything is put in the reverse order of removal.
The power steering fluid in the Kia Spectra is an oil that transfers resistance from the power steering pump to the hydraulic cylinder, and also lubricates all friction pairs. The oil is circulated through the hoses connecting the power steering units, including the Kia Spectra power steering plastic expansion tank, which has MIN and MAX marks to determine the level.
The power steering system itself is the Kia Spectra hydraulic system, part of the steering mechanism to make it easier to turn the steering wheel and set the trajectory. If the power steering refuses, it is possible to drive the car, but the steering wheel will be difficult to turn, it will become heavy.
The power steering fluid level in the Kia Spectra can be determined by the marks on the power steering plastic expansion tank. During operation, the Kia Spectra power steering fluid can flow in various places, most often through hoses. As a result, the power steering oil level will drop.
Driving without fluid in the Kia Spectra power steering raises the risk of damage to the power steering pump, which costs a lot of money, as it will run dry. As a result, he will receive serious damage and fail. The power steering pump in the Kia Spectra starts working as soon as you start the car. If your Kia Spectra is left without oil in the power steering system, then the best solution would be to call a tow truck.
Intensive use of Kia Spectra makes the power steering oil color darker over time, often with a burning smell. This is a reason to think about replacing it. Overheating of the oil often occurs when the steering wheel is fixed for a long time in the extreme position, until it boils, the pressure in this case is maximum. You should also not leave the car when parking for a long time with the steering wheel turned all the way.
Quick prophylaxis and inspection of the Kia Spectra power steering includes: control of the power steering oil level and its quality in the power steering expansion tank, checking the tension of the drive belt on the power steering pump Kia Spectra, assessing the condition of the hoses - cracks, smudges, fogging, as well as searching for leaks at the joints of the power steering elements.
There are two ways to change the fluid in the Kia Spectra power steering:
partial replacement of power steering fluid Kia Spectra.
complete replacement of power steering fluid Kia Spectra.
For a partial replacement of the power steering oil, you will need a syringe (with a tube) and the oil itself, so much that at the end of the work it ceases to be dark.
Partial replacement of power steering fluid in Kia Spectra:
We unscrew the cover of the expansion tank of the Kia Spectra power steering.
With a syringe with a tube, we completely pump out the liquid from the power steering tank.
Fill the tank with new liquid, up to the MAX level.
We start the engine and turn the steering wheel left and right to the extreme position.
We turn off the engine and repeat point # 1 again until we get the desired result - light oil.
The next method for changing the power steering oil in the Kia Spectra will allow you to achieve almost 100% replacement.
Complete replacement of power steering fluid in Kia Spectra:
Drive onto an overpass, or jack up the car so as to hang the front car wheels of the Kia Spectra, in order to be able to easily rotate them on an uncranked engine.
The steering rack is a mechanism that transfers power from the steering wheel to the steering wheel. A broken rail makes driving extremely dangerous.
Steering rack Spectra: signs of breakage
Mechanical problems are evident when the vehicle is in motion, and the operation of the mechanism is accompanied by strange noises and vibration of the steering wheel.
The power steering fluid starts to drain quickly due to a leak.
The power steering pump may appear congested during normal operation as the rack begins to increase the required input pressure before the vehicle turns.
Clutch noise appears and the steering wheel begins to behave freely (decrease in fixation and steering resistance).
Deterioration. Over time, all equipment gets old and breaks down. It also depends on external factors and the handling of the vehicle. If you often drive in the pits, then an unpleasant knock will soon begin to be heard and cracks in the device will appear. The accumulation of air, dirt and dust inside the system leads to wear of the seals.As a result, a leak occurs.
Careless handling of the vehicle by drivers. Subzero temperatures have a bad effect. If you leave the car in the cold with the wheels turned out, the hydraulic steering racks fail.
When the fastening bolts break or stretch, the mechanism begins to move back and forth, which also creates noticeable signs of wear.
The belt tension drops sharply.
Air leakage appears. Excessive accumulation of air inside the device leads to contamination.
Mechanical failure of the power steering pump is evident due to noise or a pressure gauge inserted into the power steering line.
Any dust seals are checked for leaks.
The rack and pinion assembly is tested for sounds typical of mechanical failure.
Input and output shafts are tested for reproduction.
This systematic approach will make it possible to diagnose equipment in a short time and will ensure that the entire system is checked both inside and outside.
Power steering components are affected by high pressure, temperature and speed. If built to meet or exceed OEM standards, they will be able to meet these criteria and ensure the longevity of the amplifier with an amplifier, but many auto shops offer the cheapest parts by default to keep the price down. They may function as normal, but are generally inferior in quality. When replacing the rack of a mechanism with an amplifier, you need to find out which class of parts is used, whether it is a good idea. To understand what the problem is, you need to remove and disassemble the rail.
Raising the front
Before replacing the rail, the service technician prepares to work by noting the location of the parts and removing obstructing objects for access or removal.
The fluid for the GRU is being drained.
Remove the wheel and tire.
Pull out the cotter pin and unscrew the nut.
We separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle using a puller.
We loosen the bolts from the return oil pipe and disconnect it under pressure.
Remove the intermediate shaft from the clutch rack.
We loosen the bolts and nuts from the brackets.
Remove the steering rack from the right side of the car.
Mark the alignment of the traverse rod, clamping nut and the end of the connecting rod.
Loosen the clamping stud nut and then remove the rod.
Installing the nuts
Place the end of the bar and rotate it to align with the markings made earlier.
Tighten the clamping rod nut. Tightening torque: 69-78 Nm, 7.8-8.0 kg / m.
Install the steering rod on the bracket.
We install the rail to the right side of the car.
We tighten the bolts and nuts with the rail brackets. Tightening torque: 74-93 Nm, 7.5-9.5 kg / m.
Tighten the intermediate shaft bolt. Tightening torque: 21-26 Nm, 2.2-2.7 kg / m.
We reconnect the oil pipes and tighten the bolts under pressure. Tightening torque: 24-35 Nm, 2.4-3.6 kg / m.
Install the steering rod in the steering lever.
Tighten the nut and install a new cotter pin. Tightening torque: 59-78 Nm, 6.0-8.0 kg / m.
The wheels and tires are being installed.
The vehicle is lowered and all protective struts are removed from it.
For most
Mechanical failures and leaks are generally considered unacceptable if maintenance is carried out regularly in accordance with the manufacturer's requirements.
Retention of power steering fluid and contamination-free systems is key to ensuring long-term performance. Like any system that carries high pressure, it will eventually fail due to wear and tear, however it should perform well over the life of the vehicle.
VIDEO
We will repair the main unit of the power steering pump car control system.
Those who have already encountered car breakdowns know for sure that it will be a little costly to make repairs in service centers. Much easier than ever, the most important thing is to do it yourself. With a little knowledge and effort to this process. The inherent content of the material will allow you to get acquainted with an independent repair of the power steering pump. You can also carry out diagnostics to identify malfunctions in the operation of the pump itself.
The elements that make up the pump.
The most difficult dismantling is to release the pump from disconnecting the supply hoses with pipes and draining the hydraulic fluid. Initially, we loosen the belt or uncouple the gear drive, then unscrew it from the attachment to the engine block. We flush the housing from the accumulation of dirt.
Next, we disassemble the pump body itself, very carefully remembering this moment how everything is attached (or otherwise there will be a problem during assembly), then we thoroughly clean all the components from the inside from dirt.
With a detailed examination of the internal parts of the pump, we determine their working condition.
4. Uneven surface of the inner part of the cylinder (stator).
We examine the rotor, paying attention to the grooves: their edges should be smooth and sharp, without chips and notches.
Next, we look at the inner working surface of the stator, it often happens that its wear is the cause of problems with the power steering pump.
All that we may need in the upcoming work is this!
alcohol (best of all White Spirit, aka solvent gasoline or a can of WD40 liquid);
sandpaper (from P2000 to P1000);
cloth or soft paint brush;
small file or file;
electric drill;
We use sandpaper to clean the seats of the rotor blades.
Rotor cleaning is reduced to the elimination of irregularities and burrs of the grooves, as well as to grinding the rotor surface.
Gloves are best as the edges of the rotor are very sharp; try to keep the movement smooth and even for a smoother finish.
The algorithm is as follows:
First, we make a rough cleaning with a file, then smooth it with coarse sandpaper and finish it with a sandpaper.
It is easier to adapt an electric drill using a drill and sandpaper. You will get a kind of mini-grinder by screwing sandpaper onto a drill with a diameter of at least 12 mm (against the movement of the drill rotation). When grinding with a self-made unit, you must try to evenly distribute the load over the entire surface, unnecessarily not zealous and not forgetting to change the skin from coarse to the finest.
Using a drill and sandpaper, we eliminate the unevenness of the stator surface.
Having finished with grinding, we will bring the power steering pump to its original working condition. Carrying out the assembly process in the reverse order, it will be useful to first check whether the shaft rotates easily inside the pump itself.
The final touch will be to install the cover in place, with the preliminary installation of a new gasket. During the assembly process, the cover is easily tightened with four bolts. It is best to pull them crosswise, thereby achieving an even, accurate fit of the cover plane to the stator.
Now the pump is now again in a new state. Nevertheless, it will take a long time before you will have to repeat this procedure again!
Watch a video lesson of self-repair of the power steering pump.
Watch a video lesson how the power steering system works.
Replacing the power steering pump
3. Unscrew the adjusting bolt. 4. . unscrew. nut for fixing the pump to the adjusting plate.
5. . take out. bolt and remove the tensioner slider. 6. Unscrew the bolt-union of fixing the high-pressure pipe to the union of the power-assisted steering pump.
7.. separate the hose.
12. Remove the three bolts securing the power steering pump bracket to the engine block. thirteen. . dismantle the pump complete with bracket.
sixteen. . dismantle the bracket. 17. Carefully examine the bushing in the bracket. Replace a badly damaged bushing. To do this, knock it out with a hammer.
eighteen. . Press in the new bushing with the correct size mandrel.
1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10.11.12.13.14.15.16.17.18.19.20.21.
Steering fluid level
Before adding liquid to
Use only the recommended
Checking the liquid level in
To avoid damage to
The steering rack is a mechanism that transfers power from the steering wheel to the steering wheel. A broken rail makes driving extremely dangerous.
Steering rack Spectra: signs of breakage
Mechanical problems are evident when the vehicle is in motion and the operation of the mechanism is accompanied by strange noises and vibration from the steering wheel.
The power steering fluid starts to drain quickly due to a leak.
The power steering pump may appear overloaded during normal operation as the rack begins to increase the required input pressure before the vehicle turns.
Clutch noise appears and the steering wheel begins to behave freely (decrease in fixation and steering resistance).
Deterioration. Over time, all equipment gets old and breaks down. It also depends on external factors and the handling of the vehicle. If you often drive in the pits, then an unpleasant knock will soon begin to be heard and cracks in the device will appear. The accumulation of air, dirt and dust inside the system leads to wear of the seals. As a result, a leak occurs.
Careless handling of the vehicle by drivers. Subzero temperatures have a bad effect. If you leave the car in the cold with the wheels turned out, the hydraulic steering racks fail.
When the fastening bolts break or stretch, the mechanism begins to move back and forth, which also creates noticeable signs of wear.
The belt tension drops sharply.
Air leakage appears. Excessive accumulation of air inside the device leads to contamination.
Mechanical failure of the power steering pump is evident due to noise or a pressure gauge inserted into the power steering line.
Any dust seals are checked for leaks.
The rack and pinion assembly is tested for sounds typical of mechanical failure.
Input and output shafts are tested for reproduction.
This systematic approach will make it possible to diagnose equipment in a short time and will ensure that the entire system is checked both inside and outside.
Power steering components are affected by high pressure, temperature and speed. If built to meet or exceed OEM standards, they will be able to meet these criteria and ensure the longevity of the amplifier with an amplifier, but many auto shops offer the cheapest parts by default to keep the price down. They may function as normal, but are generally inferior in quality. When replacing the rack of a mechanism with an amplifier, you need to find out which class of parts is used, whether it is a good idea. To understand what the problem is, you need to remove and disassemble the rail.
Raising the front
Before replacing the rail, the service technician prepares to work by noting the location of the parts and removing obstructing objects for access or removal.
The fluid for the GRU is being drained.
Remove the wheel and tire.
Pull out the cotter pin and unscrew the nut.
We separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle using a puller.
We loosen the bolts from the return oil pipe and disconnect it under pressure.
Remove the intermediate shaft from the clutch rack.
We loosen the bolts and nuts from the brackets.
Remove the steering rack from the right side of the car.
Mark the alignment of the traverse rod, clamping nut and the end of the connecting rod.
Loosen the clamping stud nut and then remove the rod.
Installing the nuts
Place the end of the bar and rotate it to align with the markings made earlier.
Tighten the clamping rod nut. Tightening torque: 69-78 Nm, 7.8-8.0 kg / m.
Install the steering rod on the bracket.
We install the rail to the right side of the car.
We tighten the bolts and nuts with the rail brackets. Tightening torque: 74-93 Nm, 7.5-9.5 kg / m.
Tighten the intermediate shaft bolt. Tightening torque: 21-26 Nm, 2.2-2.7 kg / m.
We reconnect the oil pipes and tighten the bolts under pressure. Tightening torque: 24-35 Nm, 2.4-3.6 kg / m.
Install the steering rod in the steering lever.
Tighten the nut and install a new cotter pin. Tightening torque: 59-78 Nm, 6.0-8.0 kg / m.
The wheels and tires are being installed.
The vehicle is lowered and all protective struts are removed from it.
For most
Mechanical failures and leaks are generally considered unacceptable if maintenance is carried out regularly in accordance with the manufacturer's requirements.
Retention of power steering fluid and contamination-free systems is key to ensuring long-term performance. Like any system that carries high pressure, it will eventually fail due to wear and tear, but should perform well over the life of the vehicle.
Video (click to play).
VIDEO 
Remove the axle bolt that secures the pump to the bracket and replace it with a screwdriver or a metal rod of a suitable diameter in order to lock the pulley. Then unscrew the nut that secures the pump pulley.
