DIY gur pump repair zf

In detail: do-it-yourself power pump repair zf from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Information applicable for car repairs:

Volkswagen Sharan (7M8) 1995 - 2001
Volkswagen Sharan (7M9) 2001 - 2004
Volkswagen Sharan (7M6) 2004 - 2010

SEAT Alhambra (7V8) 1996 - 2000
SEAT Alhambra (7V9) 2001 - 2011
SEAT Alhambra (710) 2011 - 2015

Everyone has a huge KU.
As I took the car, my power steering pump was leaking.

I was preparing for repairs, looking at suitable topics on the forum. I figured out how to get to the oil seal. It turned out that a ZF pump was installed, it is only mentioned, there is a repair of the ZF rail, a photo of a new ZF from Shniva. in a word on the ZF pump, what oil seals and bearings are needed, I did not find anything (am I wrong? Did I look badly?) everywhere there are reports on TRW pumps.
A friend on a Ford Galaxy howled very much, stood also ZF, went over (some experience appeared) from him because of the development on an ellipse in these places, he howled

in general, he needs a replacement, but we just turned this part over (by the way, you can't do this on TRW, there the channels and the part are asymmetrical) as a result, the howl became much smaller, it used to howl in a straight line, just start turning the steering wheel, now howl only when the wheels come to the extreme position.
I began to sort out myself. It did not howl, it worked silently, but it leaked, as it turned out later, it washed out all the grease from the bearing.
I'll start in order. I loosened the pump pulley bolts, with the belt tensioned, and only then loosened and removed the belt.
Before disconnecting the hoses, the inlet pinched it with such a self-made crap (like that, for a long time already, in 5 minutes I made it ..)

Video (click to play).

substituted the dishes, disconnected the inlet hose, it poured out of the pump and this hose is so much slurry

almost no slurry came out of the high-pressure hose

I removed it together with the bracket (3 bolts), the pump was attached to the bracket with 5 bolts.

We unscrew 5 bolts of the back cover, here I will note that there is a needle bearing in the back cover, the cover can be removed easily, and then you need to pay attention to where to fall out (not all of them, of course) I counted 13 of them.

I took out a part with an ellipse, it has a groove on the outside in the middle and on the edge, facing down.

Before removing the rotor, I put on a rubber ring so as not to lose the petals,

The rotor was removed, I was not going to disassemble it further. there was one more detail inside, it jumped out by itself in the process of driving the bush

I had to make an adaptation to remove the flange (it took about 30 minutes)

The bearing did not change, it is in excellent condition there is no backlash in it (tangible). He began to knock out the bearing. When they knocked out the kent earlier, there were no problems - it came out normally, I had to knock it out very hard through a brass drift, hitting the shaft from the side of the back cover, when I felt that the bearing went, at that moment the cheto fell, rang. I had a shock, it turned out that there was no retaining ring and the bearing was rolled, and when knocking out, the rolling broke off

It broke off in general successfully, of course, the bearing slid down the shaft and returned it to its place, you can see where it was from the shaft. Conclusion: for these ZFs, before removing the bearing, it is better to roll or grind or cut, bend it like on a steel product does not work out - aluminum.
The only thing you need to do is to lock the bearing, I decided to do this (photo below)
Then I opened the bearing, I didn’t wash it, didn’t wipe it, as it was confirmed, even there were no traces of grease left, I washed everything.

Now I got to the oil seal, but did not knock it out yet, suddenly some kind of ambush awaits it with its acquisition, I measured it and got a figure of 33mm in bore diameter, the shaft is 19 mm, and cheto ochkanul (19X33). Damn, I went to look for an oil seal, everywhere they offer 19X36 mm (for TRW),. I found it!
He knocked out the old oil seal, by itself he already had a kirdyk. I put it - it doesn't fit. It turned out that I measured the lead-in chamfer 33mm, now I need an oil seal 19X32X7X8 Found it without problems

I inserted the gland first with my fingers, pressed it as much as I could, then brought it by tapping through a thick tube, it is possible with a suitable head.
I assembled the needle bearing in the back cover, shook out all the needles (I already mentioned 13 pieces), put a little in the lithol holder and put them there one needle at a time, then straightened them with a shaft, now they will not fall out when the cover is installed.

Now you can start assembling. The bearing stood up like this, with a broken seal, the flange was also in its place, I measured it before removing it with a barbell (between the outer plane of the flange, through the hole, to the end of the pump casing 23.4 mm)

There was also a bearing boot, such a black plastic, tightly fitting on the shaft and fit well into the protruding rolling, after the rolling fell off, I did not put it on, because still it was necessary to fix some kind of stopper for the bearing.
put the giblets in place, inserted the lid without any problems. That's it, the pump is assembled.

Many modern cars are equipped with a power steering (GUR). Russian cars were also equipped with such systems, but not in such quantities as we would like. Power steering for VAZ 2110 was installed on rare trim levels, for example, VAZ 21124. In this article, we will show how you can repair the power steering pump yourself.

The price of a new pump is more than 3 thousand rubles. Any part can be repaired, the power steering pump is no exception.

Hello everyone! My name is Mikhail, now I'll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange a dvenashka for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that I was wildly annoyed by the breakdowns of the two, like nothing serious broke down, but the little things, damn it, so many things that really started to enrage. Here the idea was born that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the tayet Camry of the tenths.

The power steering pump on cars of the tenth family was installed by the ZF brand (ZFLS 7691 955 339). It is also suitable for VAZ 2170 and 2123, as well as Audi A6, Wolksvagen Passat or Transporter.
The whole difficulty lies in the fact that this pump model is not collapsible, that is, there are no retaining rings or covers.
but restore the operation of the power steering pump it is still possible.

We remove and disassemble the power steering pump (instructions). Then we thoroughly clean it from dirt and visually inspect it to determine the causes of the breakdown. One of them can be a step on the inner wall of the pump casing. The step can be removed with a drill attachment.

In order to get rid of constant fines from cameras, many of our readers successfully use Special Nano Film for numbers. Legal and 100% reliable way to protect yourself from fines. Having familiarized ourselves and carefully studying this method, we decided to offer it to you as well.

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Carefully inspect the contents and remember (you can take a photo) what stood where and how (more attention should be paid to the position of the cylinder). You can twist the power steering pulley and gently check with tweezers how the blades move in the grooves of the shaft.All parts should be pulled out without effort, since they do not have any fixations, but the central axis is fixed rigidly, it cannot be removed.We inspect the shaft from the back side, parts (power steering body and cover wall) touching them, for scoring or grooves, everything is perfect for me.Now we take out the entire internal economy on "clean" rags and begin to study it.We carefully examine the shaft, all its grooves have very sharp edges on all sides. One of the end sides of each groove has a pronounced sharpening inward, which, when the blade moves inside the groove with a constant slope to this side, will greatly complicate its movement (this may be the first component of the poor operation of the power steering). The lateral parts of the grooves of the shaft are also "sharpened", this can be felt if you slide your finger in different directions along the end (outer circumference), as well as along the lateral parts of the shaft in different directions. The rest of the shaft is perfect, does not have any flaws and notches.The faults were found, now we are starting to eliminate them.We need a rag, white alcohol, sandpaper with a grit of P1000 / P1500 / P2000, a triangular file, a 12mm drill (or more) and an electric drill. With the shaft, everything is much simpler, you need a P1500 sandpaper and we begin to clean all the edges of the grooves on the shaft (we clean the outer and lateral on both sides) in all possible ways. We work without fanaticism, the main task is to remove only sharp burrs.For one thing, you can immediately polish both sides of the shaft on a flat surface, it is advisable to use P2000 sandpaper.Next, you need to check the result of our work, check it visually and by touch, everything is perfectly smooth and does not cling.The most difficult thing will have to do with the surface of the cylinder, I personally have nothing simpler, I have not figured out how to make a spherical grinder from a skin, a drill and a thick drill (F12).To begin with, we take a P1000 skin and such a drill, which can be crammed into a drill.Next, you need to tightly wind the skin against the rotation of the drill, in two or three turns, there should be no gaps.Holding the tightly twisted structure, you need to insert it into the drill (clamp the skin too).Then, in the most convenient ways for you, we carefully begin to grind the cylinder, you need to grind evenly, press the cylinder tightly and move it relative to the axis of rotation (at maximum speed). As the skin is eaten, we change it, as a result we reach the smallest skin P2000.The desired result is obtained,now everything must be thoroughly wiped with a path with white alcohol. The shaft itself with blades can be rinsed in it.After we start the assembly, everything is put in the reverse order of removal.repair, information for maintenance, car news, reviews, diagnostics, forumThose who have already encountered car breakdowns know for sure that it will be a little costly to make repairs in service centers. Much easier than ever, the most important thing is to do it yourself. With a little knowledge and effort to this process. The inherent content of the material will allow you to get acquainted with an independent repair of the power steering pump. You can also carry out diagnostics to identify malfunctions in the operation of the pump itself. The most difficult dismantling is to release the pump from disconnecting the supply hoses with pipes and draining the hydraulic fluid. Initially, we loosen the belt or uncouple the gear drive, then unscrew it from the attachment to the engine block. We flush the housing from the accumulation of dirt.Next, we disassemble the pump body itself, very carefully remembering this moment how everything is attached (or otherwise there will be a problem during assembly), then we thoroughly clean all the components from the inside from dirt.4. Uneven surface of the inner part of the cylinder (stator).We examine the rotor, paying attention to the grooves: their edges should be smooth and sharp, without chips and notches.Next, we look at the inner working surface of the stator, it often happens that its wear is the cause of problems with the power steering pump.All that we may need in the upcoming work is this!

alcohol (best of all White Spirit, aka solvent gasoline or a can of WD40 liquid);

sandpaper (from P2000 to P1000);

cloth or soft paint brush;

small file or file;

electric drill;

We use sandpaper to clean the seats of the rotor blades.

Rotor cleaning is reduced to the elimination of irregularities and burrs of the grooves, as well as to grinding the rotor surface.

Gloved work is best as the edges of the rotor are very sharp; try to keep the movement smooth and even for a smoother finish.
There is no consensus on how to grind the inner surface of the stator; if you have enough patience and time, you can try manual leveling.

The algorithm is as follows:

First, we make a rough cleaning with a file, then smooth it with coarse sandpaper and finish it with a sandpaper.

It is easier to adapt an electric drill using a drill and sandpaper. You will get a kind of mini-grinder by screwing sandpaper onto a drill with a diameter of at least 12 mm (against the movement of the drill rotation). When grinding with a self-made unit, you must try to evenly distribute the load over the entire surface, unnecessarily not zealous and not forgetting to change the skin from coarse to the finest.

Using a drill and sandpaper, we eliminate the unevenness of the stator surface.

After finishing with grinding, we will bring the power steering pump to its original working condition. Carrying out the assembly process in the reverse order, it will be useful to first check whether the shaft rotates easily inside the pump itself.

The final touch will be to install the cover in place, with the preliminary installation of a new gasket. During the assembly process, the cover is easily tightened with four bolts. It is best to pull them crosswise, thereby achieving an even, accurate fit of the cover plane to the stator.

Now the pump is now again in a new state. Nevertheless, it will take a long time before you will have to repeat this procedure again!

Watch a video lesson of self-repair of the power steering pump.

Watch a video lesson how the power steering system works.

Motorists know how much nerve is wasted when power steering problems appear. The steering wheel behaves strangely and turns much more difficult at idle or low revs. A whistling sound is heard from the pump bearing. Leakage of working fluid onto the engine or onto the road at the location of the unit. The rotation of the steering shaft is accompanied by extraneous sounds.

These inconveniences can affect not only the nervous health of the driver, but also driving safety. What to do if the pump shows symptoms of malfunctioning? How to replace this power steering part? Is it possible and how to carry out the repair work yourself? We will tell you more about everything below.

The manifestations of pump breakdowns described above, in reality, may not be associated with the pump itself. Therefore, first you need to carefully examine the entire power steering system. And only if the problem is not found, start working with the pump itself.

Faults are divided into two types:

mechanical damage and wear. These include burrs, bearing problems, bumps in the interior, wear on the gasket, etc .;
hydraulic problems. Associated with insufficient fluid levels, improper fluid selection and aging. The ingress of debris into the system can also lead to the appearance of "symptoms", and, in the future, to breakdown. Banal airing refers to the same type of malfunction.

The former can only be determined by disassembling the power steering pump and inspecting each of its components. As for the second type of malfunctions, first of all, you need to answer the questions - how much time has passed since the fluid in the system was changed? Was the fluid selected according to the instructions? Is its level sufficient? And in case of airing, it is often enough to pump the hydraulics to restore the power steering.

In any case, manufacturers recommend doing a full bulkhead and cleaning if any problems arise with the pump. This will help reduce the likelihood of wear and therefore increase the life of the entire system.

The repair is conventionally divided into several stages: preparation, dismantling of the pump, preliminary inspection, replacement of parts and / or elimination of damage, reassembly and installation.

To carry out repairs you will need: tools; rags; comfortable, spacious and clean place. Of the tools you will need:

keys and heads;
circlip puller;
a large syringe and a container for pumping liquid from the tank;
fine sandpaper P1000 / 1500/2000, file.

For repair you will need: a repair kit from a car dealer, or to replace it with washers, a gasket, O-rings and an oil seal. A suitable working bearing can also come in handy if that's the case.

First you need to dismantle the power steering pump. Then disassemble and inspect each component of the unit for damage, and then repair them. If the malfunction cannot be corrected, then from the next paragraph you will learn how to replace the pump by dismantling it and installing a new one.

Disconnecting the power steering pump and disassembling it is a painstaking process, so the first thing to do is to take more time for this process and stock up on nerves.

List of actions for direct dismantling:

We drain all the liquid, armed with a syringe and a container.
Disconnect the hose from the tank to the pump.
Unscrew the tensioner locking nut completely and remove the belt.
Disconnect the high pressure hose.
We remove the pump and clean it from dirt with water and a rag.
We put it on a pre-prepared clean place.

This completes the process of removing the pump from the power steering system and you can proceed to the stage of its disassembly and inspection.

Remove the bearing circlip with a puller.
Unscrew the fixing screws from the rear cover.
Remove it by prying it with a small screwdriver, but so that the rotor blades do not fall out. To fully control the process, it is necessary to remember the sequence of disassembly. This can be done using a camera or you can define a separate place for each part with a note in which order the parts were removed.
Remove the blades separately.
Pull out the plate and the parts underneath.
Knock out the shaft carefully.
Press out the bearing.

This is the third stage in which you need to determine where and what happened to the pump. To do this, you should:

clean all parts with a rag and carefully examine each;
eliminate all defects and roughness;
change the repair kit if the old one has become unusable;
do the same with the bearing, if it is in it.

If you notice burrs and roughness that appear as a result of wear, we remove them with sandpaper. Polishing allows you to remove gaps between parts and restore tightness. It is also used as a preventative measure to keep the pump clean and in working order.

Special attention should be paid to the rotor and polish it properly if there are burrs... It is problematic to do this, since you need good skill. Here, in addition to sandpaper, a small screwdriver will help, wrapping a sheet of sandpaper around which, you can get into the “most inaccessible places”.

Summing up all that has been said, after disassembly, repairs are carried out in several ways, depending on the breakdown. These are: bearing replacement; replacement of a repair kit; removal of burrs, roughness and unevenness; complete cleaning of the pump from wear and tear elements.

The assembly and installation of the pump in the car is carried out in the reverse order. When the installation process is complete, use the information from the last paragraph, and you will not have to repeat the procedure described in this article for a very long time.

Do not forget that repairing the power steering pump with your own hands can lead to additional damage. Therefore, carrying out this procedure, you need to do everything with the utmost care so as not to aggravate and not completely break the pump.

In conclusion, it is necessary to touch upon the topic of prevention. To reduce the risk of power steering malfunctions, simple rules should be followed:

use only the liquid recommended by the manufacturer;
monitor cleanliness - do not allow debris to enter the tank;
timely change the fluid and monitor its level.

This will ensure stable operation of both the pump and the entire hydraulic booster system.

Steering failure on the go can add gray hair to even the most experienced driver. This can happen for various reasons, but the rule here is always the same: it must be repaired immediately. Today we will talk about repairing the power steering pump. Let's talk about how and why this node fails, and how to deal with it with our own hands.The main task of the power steering (GUR) is to facilitate driving. In addition, the power steering compensates for shocks when driving on uneven roads and, most importantly, when the front wheel is punctured, the power steering reduces the likelihood of an accident. The main element of the power steering is a pump, which, like any other unit, can fail for the following reasons:

The power steering fluid level is lowered due to a leak in the pipeline or in the reservoir.

Foreign impurities have got into the power steering system.

The power steering fluid has not changed for a long time and has completely exhausted its resource.

Over time, layers have formed on the walls of the pipelines, which impede the circulation of the liquid, which leads to rapid overheating of the pump.

One or more air pockets have appeared in the piping system.

It is quite simple to identify problems with the pump. Here are the main signs to watch out for:

The driver requires significantly more effort to turn the steering wheel when driving at low speeds. Even more effort is required if the vehicle is stationary and the engine is idling. But after overclocking, these problems disappear.

When you turn the steering wheel, a characteristic creak appears, which is clearly audible even in the cockpit.

The power steering bearing at idle begins to emit a thin whistle, which can disappear when accelerating.

When leaving the parking lot, spots of power steering fluid are visible on the asphalt, and characteristic streaks are visible on the pump and pipelines.

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Here are the main problems that cannot be eliminated without disassembling the pump:

The power steering pump bearing failed, while the rest of the system was not damaged.

The tightness of the pump seals is broken and they need to be replaced.

The gasket under the rear pump casing is worn out.

Open-end wrench set.

A set of socket heads with a knob.

Retaining ring puller.

Flat blade screwdriver.

A set of new gaskets.

New oil seals.

New bearing for the power steering pump.

Medical syringe (large).

Empty container for draining fluid from the power steering tank.

Rags.

Using open-end wrenches, the pump mounting bolts are loosened. Then the timing belt tensioner is unscrewed, after which the belt is removed.

The fluid from the power steering tank is pumped out with a syringe and drained into a previously prepared container. When the reservoir is empty, the steering wheel is turned left and right several times. As a result, the remaining liquid is squeezed out into the tank and pumped out with a syringe.

The liquid is pumped out with a medical syringe

The clamp, with which the system hose is attached to the expansion tank, is loosened with a flat screwdriver, after which the hose is removed by hand.

The hose is removed manually after loosening the clamp

Next, the high pressure hose is disconnected. It is held in place by a bolt, which is unscrewed with a 10 open-end wrench. The hose is removed.

Next, the pump mounting brackets are unscrewed, it is removed and thoroughly cleaned of dirt and oil drips. This is done with a rag.

Previously removed hoses and fasteners

A puller is used to remove the bearing circlip.

After removing the ring, the bolts holding the back cover of the pump are unscrewed. After removing 4 bolts, the cover is gently pry off with a flat screwdriver and removed. Access to the pump rotor is opened.

It is easy to remove the cover by prying it with a screwdriver

The rotor is removed, the blades are removed from it. They are stacked on a sheet of paper, each blade is assigned a number. This avoids confusion when reassembling.

Access to the pump shaft is opened. It is knocked out together with the bearing using a screwdriver handle.

It is convenient to remove the shaft by knocking on it with a screwdriver

The old bearing is removed from the shaft and replaced with a new one. The shaft is placed in place.

To remove it, it is better to use a special puller

All worn out oil seals and a gasket under the rear cover are also replaced, after which the pump is reassembled and installed in its original place.

As you can see, the repair of the power steering pump is not particularly difficult. It is easy to get to it, and to disassemble it too. There is only one important point: you need to take out the rotor very carefully in order to prevent the blades from falling out (on most cars, they are not secured by anything). The blades must be removed from the rotor one at a time, and when reassembling, put them where they were. Confusion is categorically unacceptable.Power steering is not an unimportant mechanism in modern cars, with its help, car control is facilitated dozens of times. In the previous article, we already looked at how to replace the belt and what is needed for this. This time we will consider how to replace the bearing with a power steering. I will say right away that the process is not quick and not easy, so if you don’t like to sit in one place for a long time and poke around in the little things, then it’s better to go straight to the service center. Nevertheless, if you decide to replace the bearing yourself, then we will consider in detail how this is done. Like any other bearing, sooner or later the bearings on the hydraulic booster will also fail. Therefore, it is better to listen when it starts to buzz.Having prepared everything that we need, we proceed to remove the pump itself. First, remove the booster belt. Sometimes you will have to remove the alternator belt for this, as they operate on the same transmission pulley. We drain the liquid from the pump, for this some people use a syringe to draw out the liquid. I prefer to put plugs in the pipes (pipes) and remove the entire pump as it is, and put the plugs in the system so that liquid does not leak out. Do not forget that the pipes and pipes must be higher than the expansion tank of the power steering. After waiting until the excess fluid drains back into the tank, we unscrew all the pipes and pipes. Then we hang the pipes and pipes to the hood, they should not hang down. We unscrew the mounting bolts and completely remove the pump. Well, finally, we have it in our hands. Place yourself in a place that is convenient for you to disassemble it and do not lose details.Before proceeding with the assembly, it is worth washing all the components of the pump, and, if necessary, greasing them, it is also worth revising the new bearing, they are not always lubricated from the factory. Now, in the reverse order, we begin to collect. We insert the bearing, with a colorless or metal ring down, and on the other, rubber red on the shaft. It is worth pressing in with a red ring towards the bottom (that is, outward), it should rest against the inner cage. Do not forget about the washer, put it on and put the shaft in the pump housing. We put the retaining ring. The red bearing ring should be visible from the pump.

Anyone who drove a car of an old domestic model without a power steering, and then switched to a modern foreign car, can immediately say that the difference is simply incommensurable. The driving experience is completely different. There is no need to strain your arms so much and think over the trajectory of the reversal. The hydraulic booster helps to maintain maneuverability, vehicle control and softens the recoil to the steering wheel.

Of course, there are innumerable positive aspects here, but sooner or later the moment comes when the hydraulic booster can fail. Typical signs that this steering element is out of order are the appearance of noise when turning the steering wheel, a decrease in fluid, a jerky steering wheel or too tight rotation of the steering wheel, the manifestation of various kinds of knocking when driving over bumps, or, worst of all, a decrease in vehicle controllability.

Faults in the power steering are manifested in the form of a heavy steering wheel movement, especially at low revs. Hum and whistle may appear. Having finally become unusable, the power steering device will not be able to help even in an unheated state. If you do not have the opportunity or you want to save on maintenance in a specialized car service, then there is nothing left to do but replace the power steering with your own hands.

Looking ahead, we want to note that it is better not to reassure ourselves with optimistic thoughts about an easy replacement, because this process is quite time-consuming, but it is worth the financial resources saved on that.But for those motorists who are not the first time to dig deeper into their "swallow", replacing the elements of the power steering will not seem like something special. Before starting work, assess the general condition of all power steering assemblies in order to replace them if necessary. Also consider purchasing a pump, pulley, oil seal, PTFE ring for high pressure tubing and belt. So let's get to work.

1. Remove the protectors and splash guards on the belts.

2. Next, remove the coolant tanks.

3. The power steering belt can be removed or simply cut. This will depend on his condition.

4. Next, disconnect the power steering tubes: inlet and outlet, which are attached to the nuts.

5. Remove the oil seal and delivery tube, which is secured with a simple clip on the right side of the radiator.

6. Empty the tube. To completely remove it, it is better to use the services of an assistant to spin the wheels of the car.

7. After this procedure, disconnect the hydraulic booster high pressure pipe flange.

8. Unscrew the clamp that secures the feed tube. The power steering pump is mounted on four bolts. Three of them should be unscrewed immediately, and you will get to the fourth only after unscrewing the power steering mechanism belt cover bolts.

9. Remove all four bolts securing the pump.

Disassembly of the hydraulic booster and dismantling of the pump must be carried out strictly according to the instructions.

1. It is better to clean the dismantled pump from dirt deposits in order to further inspect it and identify the causes of the malfunctions that have occurred. As a rule, the most common cause of breakage is its complete depletion in the inner cavity of the body. Visually, it looks like a step. You can get rid of the defect using a drill with a nozzle. But difficulties may arise if a non-separable pump is installed, which is devoid of covers and retaining rings.

2. The clamps for fastening the pipes to the tank may be disposable, so you have to break them.

3. Drain the remaining fluid from the reservoir. When using it again, you should definitely look inside and check the cleanliness of the mesh located there. If necessary, the tank should be rinsed or a new one should be bought (its cost is low). The cleaning of the system is not over yet. All the insides should be blown out with compressed air at a pressure of approximately 8 atmospheres.

4. Disconnect the pump hose clamp.

5. Teflon gaskets are durable, but must be replaced on high pressure pipe flanges.

Even in a comfortable environment, replacing the pump can take several hours. The procedure for replacing the power steering pump takes on average 6-7 hours of careful work. If the design of the pump allows it to be repaired, then pressing out the pulley and the oil seal takes a special place. But in order to save time and effort, it is better to replace it with a new one. If replacement is impossible, you will have to press a new pulley onto the shaft of the new pump. The structure is fixed with a screw and nut. The pump shaft has an M6 thread inside. To fit the flange onto the shaft, it must be preheated. After cooling, it will sit tightly on the shaft. Inside the pump, the power steering bearing is secured with a bent edge.

Installation of the power steering is carried out in the reverse order. It is easier to tighten the belt using a cone. Sometimes for these purposes, you can use a special device made of tin. Or another option is possible, when the power steering mount is not fully tightened, and the belt is loosely put on the pulley. Only then is the fully assembled structure secured with the required degree of belt tension.

If you think you can just get by with replacing the power steering pump, then you are wrong. This is not a complete process yet. You will also need to seal the system, plus, in any case, you will need to add fluid to the tank. It is best to change the fluid while the engine is still hot.But since you might not know this or forgot, and only remembered after replacing the pump, then we will tell you how to do it right in this situation.

You can warm up the tank and all fluid drain channels using a technical hairdryer. But the main thing here is not to overdo it, so as not to overheat the pipes. Pre-prepared transmission fluid should also be warmed up. In this state, it will be better to pour there. Everyone uses the one recommended by the car manufacturer, most manufacturers recommend Dextron II. Do not forget about the subzero temperature, in cold weather the main thing is that the liquid does not freeze, therefore, when choosing, pay attention to the markings on the label.

After the return hose is disconnected from the power steering reservoir, lower it into an empty container. The very hole in the tank, where the return flow was, should be temporarily closed with something. The process will proceed as follows. Pour the transmission fluid into the hydraulic booster reservoir and crank the starter. He will start the pump and slowly pump liquid into the return pipe, and then into an empty prepared container.

By color, you will determine when the fluid in the power steering has been pumped, then you can stop pumping. Next, reconnect the return hose to the tank and again turn it a couple of times with the starter and move the steering wheel in parallel, about a quarter of its turn, left and right. This is necessary in order to get a feel for the steering wheel. Important! Never start the engine! Pressurized fluid will shoot out of the power steering. Experienced motorists advise you to simply turn off the gas pump so that you do not accidentally start the engine.

On this note, the replacement of the power steering pump and its pumping ends. Reassemble everything in reverse order and connect the fuel pump. Check that the fluid in the reservoir is at the maximum mark. Get in the car and drive for a few laps using the steering wheel. So you will pump the pump on the working engine. While driving, try to turn the steering wheel as much as possible in the direction of the vehicle. This is necessary in order to feel if there are still any problems, and if a crunch is heard. There should be no dips or noises when turning the steering wheel. Better yet, ask someone to watch from the street and listen to how the front wheels behave during the ride, and whether the new power steering pump is making extraneous sounds.

Video (click to play).

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