DIY gur uaz hunter pump repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a gur uaz hunter pump from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

I ask the help of the distinguished participants of the Forum. On UAZ 31519 (100 l / s engine, carburetor), the power steering pump is jammed. As I understand it, it cannot be repaired. A new one in the Uazovsky store costs 12 thousand rubles, on the Internet - from 9 thousand rubles. (plus delivery - total - 10). There is no desire, and there is not much money to put a native pump, because if the factory pump has passed only 50 thousand, how long does the double take? Maybe someone put this very part from another car, maybe from a used Japanese, or a European? A big request to share your experience.

Messages: 13570
Location: 66, Yekaterinburg
UAZ Hunter 315195
ZIL 5301 Goby

Evgen22, 1 May 2017, 14:21, # 1

Yes you. jammed

but you will not tell the reason? WHY?

Do you know how simple the power steering pump is on the UAZ? there is nothing to go crazy, unless he was "helped"

there are not many reasons why it might jam.

1.no oil rolled or low oil

2. it was not known what was flooded, or the filter was not changed or its absence

3. improper operation, due to not knowing the rules for handling the steering equipped with a hydraulic booster.

Video (click to play).

4. due to the very high mileage.

Point 4 disappears, your mileage is penny.

first, tell us what kind of gur pump you have, because you turned down the price very terrible, at this price you can buy a pump from an import manufacturer that makes an uaz, for example a ZF pump - germany.

take a look here: this is not the cheapest online store yet.

If you had a SHNKF gur pump, you can kill it only through your own fault.

just if you buy an old pump from a used foreign car - and it was operated in the same way. then history will repeat itself, and you will also crash the steering gear.

Thanks for the tip about the store. I didn’t find anything like that before. why the pump broke down, I don't know. My dad uses UAZ. And what kind of pump I have, I don't know. Maybe you can determine from the photo:

Messages: 13570
Location: 66, Yekaterinburg
UAZ Hunter 315195
ZIL 5301 Goby

Evgen22, 1 May 2017, 15:13, # 3

And what kind of pump I have, I don't know. Maybe you can determine from the photo:

there should be a nameplate on it. Which one I do not know, there are several manufacturers.

Evgen22, 1 May 2017, 15:13, # 3

why the pump broke down, I don't know. My dad uses UAZ.

give dad a drink, under a drunken shop, I think he will tell

there on the nameplate there are free-standing numbers 818 then 02 then 29 and some other 6 toli horseradish knows what

I think he is. Just right for the 421 engine. Vadim, thank you! I think that it will be better to buy a native one than to make money from some old Kruzak

Messages: 13570
Location: 66, Yekaterinburg
UAZ Hunter 315195
ZIL 5301 Goby

Evgen22, 1 May 2017, 15:59, # 7

I think he is. Just right for the 421 engine. Vadim, thank you! I think that it will be better to buy a native one than to make money from some old Kruzak

yes, especially since its price is not so biting.

and delivery of this garbage - if business lines or a pack - yes 400 rubles, well, 600 if far. Only not by Russian post - this office does not want to work.

Only there is a possibility that the bracket may be slightly different or the thread in the pump is of a different size.

I bought myself a pump (for ZMZ-409) - so one thread in the pump turned out to be smaller in diameter (it also depends on the years of production).

vadim20, 1 May 2017, 16:39, # 8

yes, especially since its price is not so biting.

We have such a pump in Barnaul 12500.

Messages: 13570
Location: 66, Yekaterinburg
UAZ Hunter 315195
ZIL 5301 Goby

Evgen22, 1 May 2017, 17:03, # 9

We have such a pump in Barnaul 12500.

you can still search, there are a lot of online stores.

Messages: 3236
BMW X5 4.4

Why is his pulley so uneven? This is definitely not a ZF pump, only ours can make such a clumsy one. And what do you mean jammed? the high pressure hose may be stratified or clogged

Messages: 13570
Location: 66, Yekaterinburg
UAZ Hunter 315195
ZIL 5301 Goby

Alekzander99, 1 May 2017, 22:14, # 11

Why is his pulley so uneven? This is definitely not a ZF pump, only ours can make such a clumsy one.

this is not zf

Well, it doesn't matter on the one hand, ours walk no less until you ditch it yourself.

The pulley is not even - rather, the consequences of disassembly, most likely, were not completely disassembled. The pulley sits on the thread and is twisted in the direction of rotation. It's just not easy to disassemble, you need either an old rotor, or an imitation of a rotor so that there is something to hold and a key for the pulley, but few people know about this.

Messages: 13570
Location: 66, Yekaterinburg
UAZ Hunter 315195
ZIL 5301 Goby

Alekzander99, 1 May 2017, 22:14, # 11

jammed and that's it! the pulley gets stuck, the belt whistles and burns and cannot turn. If the hose is clogged with something, then the valve will work and will not immediately harm the pump.

The design is terribly simple.

the numbers 1 and 2 are his working parts, they are inserted into the body - nothing else is there. Number 3 - the consequences of working without oil or with a low level, sometimes the rotor rolls up from the top or bottom from dirt and it rolls metal onto metal and stands up with a stake.

As long as there is oil and a filter is installed, and the oil with the filter changes on time, it will work and work.

There is also a reason when they die - if somewhere in difficult conditions the steering wheel is swinging. eversion and for a long time, and the dump valve whistles constantly, the oil heats up at this moment from the load - it just heats up very much and loses the lubricating properties and. kerdyk

also, you can not assemble it correctly and it clamps inside and again.

To make it easier for the driver to control the vehicle, in modern cars, a hydraulic booster is installed on the steering column. One of the main elements of this mechanism is a pump that pumps hydraulic fluid through the power steering system. During operation, it is exposed to heavy loads, therefore, it is periodically necessary to repair the power steering pump.

You can change this unit with your own hands. It is even possible to replace a failed bearing. In this case, the power steering pump repair kit will come in handy, which can be bought at any car store.

Before deciding to carry out repair work, it is necessary to check the presence of liquid in the tank, as well as the compliance of its brand with the approved one for use on this machine. Often, the cause of the signs of malfunction is the appearance of air locks in the system. Therefore, if you suspect this, it is necessary to pump the hydraulics, removing all air plugs. In this case, the efficiency of the power steering can be fully restored. If, when checking the quality of the working fluid, it is found that it does not meet the standard, it is necessary to change it to the fluid of the desired brand. In the case when a decision is made to repair the power steering pump, it is required to prepare a workplace and the necessary tools, as well as materials for carrying out the work:

you need a key for "12", as well as heads for "14" and "24";
you will need a snap ring puller;
prepare in advance two copper washers, a gasket for the rear casing, O-rings, in the amount of two pieces and an oil seal, they can be replaced by a repair kit for the power steering pump;
be sure to have a bearing marked "6202" and an outer diameter of 35 mm;
to pump oil out of the tank, you need a large syringe and a container;
clean the workbench and cover it with clean cardboard to disassemble the pump;
prepare fine sandpaper and a cleaning cloth.

In order to remove the power steering pump and repair it with your own hands, you need to perform the following steps.

Slightly loosen the axle bolt that secures the pump unit to the bracket using the hole in the pulley. Loosen the tensioner retaining nut completely and remove the belt.
Using a syringe, pump out the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir. Turn the steering wheel right and left until it stops so that the oil is completely out of the system, do this several times to completely clean the pipelines.

Loosen the clamp on the hose that runs from the expansion tank and remove this line.

Remove the bolt that secures the high pressure hose from the pump to the system.
Remove the axle bolt that secures the pump to the bracket and replace it with a screwdriver or a metal rod of a suitable diameter in order to lock the pulley. Then unscrew the nut that secures the pump pulley.
Pull the released power steering pump unit up and put it in a specially prepared place. Remove dirt and oil from the unit housing.
Remove the bearing retaining ring with a puller.
Remove the rear cover mounting bolts. Gently pry it off with a small screwdriver and remove it, making sure that the rotor blades do not fall out of the housing.

Take out the blades and put them on pre-prepared numbered pieces of paper so as not to confuse anything during assembly. Attention! Remember the position of the assembled blades. When installed in a housing, the rounded part of these blades must be turned outward.

Remove the plate and all parts underneath.
Drive out the shaft by tapping gently with a screwdriver.

Press the bearing off the pump shaft.

Change the unusable bearing for a previously prepared one.

Check the parts of the pump set for defects and wear. Clean surfaces from dirt and roughness. Experts say - simple cleaning of internal parts reduces gaps and allows you to extend the operation of this unit without replacing any parts.

Reassemble in reverse order. It is imperative to change the oil seal, O-rings and washers for new ones prepared in advance.

If it is difficult for you to fix the power steering pump with your own hands or there is no time for this, then it is possible to replace the power steering pump with a new one. This will significantly reduce the repair time. Also watch a video on the topic:

A very helpful article! And although I have a Hyundai H1 4 × 4 Starex 4WD, I think that these tips are very, very useful to me. My Gur is stuck (most likely - the bearing). Disassembled. As soon as I find a bearing and a repair kit for it, I will collect it. Wish I saw this article before. I had to suffer with unscrewing the return hose from the fitting. It was only necessary to put a wrench on the lower part of the fitting, and unscrew the upper one.
Thank you for the article!Very helpful article. I myself am now suffering with gur Ford EXP3 4.6. And howls and tight ... to sort out nodo ... There is already a mess in my head from studying and generally searching for information ....Power steering power steering, device, repair, operation.Attention! A proven method!
With the help of a modified pump puller VAZ 01-07 (worth a penny) and two M8 bolts 65 mm long. When working, consider three points
1.holes in the steering wheel hub are not drilled through 180 degrees
2.Cut off the jumper between the hole and the end of the puller with a grinder
3.Fake steering wheels do not have technological holes in the hub and this method will not help
Notes:
1. On sale there are pump pullers of different thickness - the correct one is the one> = 10mm.
2. Before you pick up the grinder, you need to try on the puller on the handlebars and outline the direction of future cuts. The grinder will have to work seriously.
3. Screw the bolts (those that are M8) into the holes on the steering wheel and necessarily lock on the reverse side with nuts. (otherwise the thread will rip off)
Press down with the screw (M10) included in the puller kit.
Photo of the modified puller, puller assembly. Large diameter nuts act as non-crease washers. The same problem came up. I had to throw the steering wheel over a couple of slots, so I could not remove it. I had to disconnect the steering shaft and rearrange it in the splines. There is a barbaric way, but this steering wheel is painfully flimsy for him to the touch. You can unscrew the retaining nut, disconnect the shaft and loosen the steering column bearing.One pulls the steering wheel towards itself, and the other hits the end of the steering shaft with a heavy hammer. You can make a fittings from a nut screwing onto the steering shaft by half of its thread and a bolt screwing into this nut. And it is more convenient to knock on the bolt.I have one that they put on the latest new UAZs, so it can be removed with a puller without problems. There, under the plastic patch, there are two special holes for this purpose.Everything is very simple - you need a thick (5-6 mm) plate with two holes for M8 bolts screwed into the steering wheel hub. The plate rests on the shaft, the bolts are tightened, the wheel is pulled together. You can drill holes in place by measuring the distance between the holes with a vernier caliper.A 15x15 corner is taken, a piece of length is sawn off from it20 cm.In it, in turn, 2 holes are drilled at a distance the same as the holes in the steering wheel (2 threaded holes into which the bracket for the bibical is passed), it is applied to the steering shaft and wrapped into the holes through the corner that there were two fools bolt М8. The bolts pull the steering wheel towards themselves, and the corner, respectively, rests on the shaft, the steering wheel is pulled together. I changed mine from the usual to the luxury one. And I wanted to help my friend remove the new steering wheel on the zero car - so he unscrewed his head nafig on one bolt - then he spent an hour turning out the stub - so make up your mind.Before shooting, pour VDshka or Unisma! It will go easier !!
up It is pulled up by a simple device made from a sheet of an old spring. You take a leaf of the spring and bend one edge of it (cm 5-7) under 90 degrees. With this thing, the steering tips are very easy to tighten, only the wheels must be removed so that they do not interfere.Can be tightened with a chisel. To do this, you will have to remove the rods (not the tips, but all the rods - while the convergence will not suffer) and holding the hinges in a vice, release the plugs (by unscrewing or twisting, if necessary. I tightened harder than in the primer - all the way and 1/4 back. everything is OK.By the way, even the new tips are wrapped 2.5 turns.
up To adjust the gearbox, unscrew the cap nut on the side of the gearbox housing (a large one, a key for 28 or 30, I used an adjustable one), remove the lock washer, tighten the adjusting screw with a “square” until the backlash is eliminated and assemble in the reverse order. It is also necessary to check the condition of the ends of the steering rods, very often the steering backlash is due to them.Before adjusting the steering wheel - to the central position and tighten not according to the very "I do not want", but wisely. The witness himself, when the worm in the over-tightened gearbox was biting into extreme positions. Very unpleasant, especially on the road.
up It so happened that on my 91 thousand "loaf" the resource of the steering gear was completely exhausted. That is, the backlash was not eliminated by the adjusting screw, moreover, it became very tight to turn the steering wheel. In short, I decided to change the entot device. I read the ABC book, bought a new gearbox. and on Saturday together with a friend began to poke around. The first thing they ran into was the removal of the steering wheel. You need a special puller, and instead only a set consisting of a hammer and a sledgehammer and a long list of obscene expressions. After an unsuccessful hour of work with this set, the commander's decision came to cut off the steering column with a "grinder". No sooner said than done, only the people from the neighboring garages looked at this operation in a strange way. Next, you need to remove the steering bipod. There was a puller for this operation, but in the process of its implementation it was gone. I had to remove the cover with the adjusting screw, insert a “locomotive” key between the gearbox housing and the steering bipod and separate these parts with the blows of a 10-kg sledgehammer on the steering bipod shaft. The remnants of the old gearbox were thrown away, the transmission synthetics (GL5) were poured into the new one and everything was put in place.
up UAZ does not produce military bridges + power steering vehicles (except for "Bars"). In my opinion, the problem is that military bridges have a greater angle of rotation of the wheel (or it is known that the power steering is unreliable.) On the highway, with the correct descent, the power steering is not needed (on the Moscow Ring Road I hold the steering wheel with my hand by the spoke to “make it heavier” - and I’m not one of the strongmen), on hummocks I try not to turn the steering wheel too much unnecessarily (or there are some special hummocks ?) [Commodore]I have had a power steering for a year (with military bridges), and I must say that I am very pleased with it.
1. The car has excellent maneuverability - since the angle of rotation of the wheels of the military is greater, the light steering wheel when parking allows you to turn literally on the spot. Try to do the same operation without power steering.
2. On the track, the car reacts less to irregularities, it is easier to keep it on a straight line, and there is zero, although not the same as on foreign cars.
3. Off-road is easier than an example - over bumps and ruts!
up In my opinion, this is a matter of habit. There is one more thing. What did you drive before? The base is short, so it prowls along the road. This is not even a generic feature of the Ulyanovsk all-terrain vehicles, but a feature inherent in all short-range vehicles. So far I have been driving the "goat" and have not noticed any yaw. Hands themselves already automatically corrected the movement of the car imperceptibly for me. But as soon as I took a ride in a long-wheelbase car, I was horrified when I got into my own “goat”. And before that I went and did not notice.The problem can be solved, but only in a complex. Install a steering damper, good shock absorbers, eliminate all backlash in the steering rods, gearbox, swingarm, bearings, etc. and install good tires. It will get much better. But it won't be perfect anyway, it's not VW. You just have to get used to it. Do not think that if the car is new, then there is still no backlash. That is why (because the car is new) it is still very poorly made. Everything must be checked and tightened / changed / adjusted. If done by hand, everything will be fine.1. Eliminate imperfections and backlashes. 2. Get used to 3. Not voiced by previous speakers: there are Guras with, so to speak, with a "minor" drawback - the actuation of this device with a slight delay, with zero information content of the steering wheel, this leads to "overrun".
up In fact, it is more reliable, and by the way and cheaper, imported from disassembly, for example from Chevrolet. In Vadik's "Black Cuttlefish", for example, there is, after two of our untimely dead.I myself got myself a hydrach on a UAZ, I attached a W-123 body from Merce. I installed the gearbox without any problems, but I had to tinker with the pump. Put it together with the steering column and all the switches and the ignition switch! And it took about two days, taking into account all the preparatory work!The product of joint production of OJSC “Avtodetal-Service” (Ulyanovsk) and the firm “ZF Lenksysteme” (Germany) for the production of a Steering gear with a hydraulic booster (31608-3400500) (hereinafter “Mechanism”) for UAZ cars of the brand: passenger cars 3160, 3162, 3163 and cargo UAZ 2360- "Pickup".The complete set of the "Mechanism" includes parts manufactured by ZFLS (Germany): a high-pressure pump, a distributor with a screw and a piston - with a rack assembly, needle injection and drain hoses, an oil tank, a tank clamp, a bracket, a pump holder, a poly V-belt pulley , fasteners.Test tests gave the following results (tests were carried out on a serial UAZ-31622):
1. Effort on the steering wheel: to the left 2.0 kgf; to the right 2.6 kgf;
2. Speed of self-return of the steering wheel: 246 degrees / sec;
3. Changeover speed: 76.1 km / h;
4. Speed of turning R 35 m: 69.5 km / h;
5. Transfer ratio of the steering mechanism: 17.23.
The sale of a complete set of power steering gear is made by Tehresurs LLC.
up You can rotate, but it is undesirable to ride like this for a long time. This option was from the factory - a gearbox from a power steering, but there was no pump and other things. He traveled several thousand - then the backlash in the gearbox increased.
up The invention is not mine, it is from the ancients and the chorus. forgotten "experienced advice". In quality anthers USE ball finger covers from ZAZ-968 A, M, slightly cutting them off from above.
up A complete list of components, as well as a drawing and description of the power steering, installation procedure, operation and maintenance of the power steering HERE.According to rumors, Sterlitamak is of better quality than Borisov, although it is "tighter" (the gear ratio is less). Outwardly, the Sterlitamak hoses run one after the other from above, while the Borisov hoses run one on top and one on the side.According to the Ulyanovsk craftsmen, the Borisov power steering is more reliable. Also, power steering, in my opinion, differ in the number of revolutions of the steering wheel (3 and 5).The Borisov power steering is really very powerful, even on 35s with -19 discs it turns without feedback. But Sterlitamak is much more informative.The plant does not make wagon-type cars with power steering - the issue is being resolved; cars of a wagon layout, on gear axles and with power steering (and without power steering) does not at all. Everything turned out surprisingly well for me. Although at first I found out that power boosters are not put on a loaf. But there was no strength to fight with the steering wheel (especially on the off-road) and decided to mount the usual UAZ hydraulic booster by means of a cunning bracket. From Ulyanovsk, they brought me a factory kit for installation on the UAZ-31514. When I found out what these hydraulic boosters are doing in Belarus in the glorious city of Borisov, we decided to go to the plant with a mechanic - to consult. And lo and behold - it turns out a month ago the factory workers made 5 hydraulic boosters specifically for loaves and went to Ulyanovsk to offer them to UAZ, but UAZ refused this development under the pretext that the stamping of the body had to be changed for this wetsuit. So they came back with these gidrikas (luckily for us). In short, we bought ourselves one for $ 50. Became like a native. With the steering column, I was a little perverted - I put MAZovskaya, with an adjustable tilt. As for the stamping, there was no need to cut the floor. car lifted under the 33rd rubber.
up There is the most traditional rack and pinion gearbox, it is good precisely because it is light - and it is easy to turn on the spot, and on the track, and it returns to zero itself, just hold it. The same is bad - on bumps it “responds” with lightning speed and mercilessly - I, having broken two fingers with an old three-spoke steering wheel, put a weighted two-spoke steering wheel (in general, in my opinion, it is the most convenient of the existing ones). The second option - Borisov or "luxury" has a powerful gearbox, due to which it is less sensitive, does not hit the hands, does not require strong steering on the track at high speeds. But it turns tighter than the first one and returns to zero itself less intensely, which, at least, annoys me.I will tell you how I repaired the power steering pump. But first, a little background.The steering wheel on a cold car in summer and winter works flawlessly. But as soon as the car warms up, especially in summer, the steering wheel on the XX becomes very tight, as if the power steering is not there. In winter, this problem does not manifest itself so strongly, but it is still present. If you put it on the gas, the steering wheel immediately turns with ease (though not quite perfect, but still lighter). At the same time, the pump does not knock, does not ring, nor leaks, etc ... (do not take the snotty rail into account) the oil is fresh and perfect (especially, thanks to the state of the rail, it is updated regularly!), The cardan is lubricated and does not wedge!In general, on the face of the sign of the lack of performance of the power steering pump with hot oil at XX. I did not suffer for a long time, in the end I decided to deal with this problem, spent a lot of time, rummaged through the Internet, understood the principle of the pump, found a similar description and decided to sort out my "old" pump.And so, first of all, we remove the pump, it is necessary to drain all the slurry from it (how to remove it and drain the liquid, I think everyone will figure it out), also, on the back cover of the power steering, you need to unscrew four bolts with a 14 head.After we begin to carefully remove the cover, try not to damage the gasket, this gasket with an internal rubber seal), in the power steering case we leave the outer part of the "working ellipse cylinder" (hereinafter simply the cylinder).There is no need to be scared when the lid moves away from the case, it may seem that it is moving away due to the influence of the spring, during reassembly it will seem to you that it does not fit into place, just continue to carefully and alternately tighten the bolts diagonally, then everything will fall into place ...Carefully inspect the contents and remember (you can take a photo) what stood where and how (more attention should be paid to the position of the cylinder). You can twist the power steering pulley and gently check with tweezers how the blades move in the grooves of the shaft.All parts should be pulled out without effort, since they do not have any fixations, but the central axis is fixed rigidly, it cannot be removed.We inspect the shaft from the back side, parts (power steering body and cover wall) touching them, for scoring or grooves, everything is perfect for me.Now we take out the entire internal economy on "clean" rags and begin to study it.We carefully examine the shaft, all its grooves have very sharp edges on all sides. One of the end sides of each groove has a pronounced sharpening inward, which, when the blade moves inside the groove with a constant slope to this side, will greatly complicate its movement (this may be the first component of the poor performance of the power steering). The lateral parts of the grooves of the shaft are also "sharpened", this can be felt if you slide your finger in different directions along the end (outer circumference), as well as along the lateral parts of the shaft in different directions. The rest of the shaft is perfect, does not have any flaws and notches.The faults were found, now we are starting to eliminate them.We need rags, white alcohol, sandpaper with a grit of P1000 / P1500 / P2000, a triangular file, a 12mm drill (or more) and an electric drill. With the shaft, everything is much simpler, you will need a P1500 sandpaper and we begin to clean all the edges of the grooves on the shaft (we clean the outer and lateral on both sides) in all possible ways. We work without fanaticism, the main task is to remove only sharp burrs.For one thing, you can immediately polish both sides of the shaft on a flat surface, it is advisable to use P2000 sandpaper.Next, you need to check the result of our work, check it visually and by touch, everything is perfectly smooth and does not cling.The most difficult thing will have to do with the surface of the cylinder, I personally have nothing simpler, I have not figured out how to make a spherical grinder from a skin, a drill and a thick drill (F12). To begin with, we take a P1000 skin and such a drill, which can be crammed into a drill.Next, you need to tightly wind the skin against the rotation of the drill, in two or three turns, there should be no gaps.Holding the tightly twisted structure, you need to insert it into the drill (clamp the skin too).Then, in the most convenient ways for you, we carefully begin to grind the cylinder, you need to grind evenly, press the cylinder tightly and move it relative to the axis of rotation (at maximum speed). As the skin is eaten, we change it, as a result we reach the smallest skin P2000.The desired result is obtained,now everything must be thoroughly wiped with a path with white alcohol. The shaft itself with blades can be rinsed in it.After we start the assembly, everything is put in the reverse order of removal.Fig. 1. Steering gear with hydraulic booster GUR UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519 1 - nut; 2, 5, 6, 17, 21, 23, 24, 37, 40 - sealing rings; 3 - glass; 4, 11 - thrust bearings; 7 - piston rack; 8 - screw; 9 - crankcase; 10, 18 - pins; 12 - connection of the injection hose; 13 - drain hose fitting; 14 - sleeve; 15 - cuff; 16 - torsion bar; 19 - ball guide; 20 - balls; 22 - channel in the crankcase; 25 - bipod; 26 - bipod nut; 27 - lower protective cover; 28 - retaining rings; 29 - adjusting washers; 30 - bipod shaft supports; 31 - rollers; 32 - bipod shaft; 33 - top protective cover; 34 - rotor; 35 - protective cap; 36 - distributor housing; 38 - channel in the distributor body; 39 - bolts of the distributor housing to the crankcase- Fix the steering gear in a vise so that the delivery and drain holes (holes for the fitting) are at the bottom. - Drain the oil from the mechanism by turning the rotor 34 (Fig. 1) or the spool shaft by hand. - Press the rotor or spool shaft by hand along the axis and swing the bipod 25 (see Fig. 1).- If the axial movement of the rotor or the spool shaft is felt, it is necessary to
adjust the tension of thrust bearings 4 and 11. - To adjust the thrust bearings, use a bit and a hammer to straighten the bead collar 3, which is nailed into the grooves in the crankcase wall.- Remove the gap by turning the bowl or nut clockwise. - Check the torque of the rotor or spool shaft in the thrust bearings, it should be 2 Nm (0.2 kg / cm). - If a gap is felt in the middle position of the UAZ-315195, UAZ-31519 bipod shaft when rocking the bipod, adjust the gearing, for which unscrew the nut 26 and remove the bipod.- Remove the top and bottom covers 27 and 33. - Remove the circlip 28 and the adjusting washers 29. Loosen the locknuts and unscrew the securing bolts 26 two to three turns. - Straighten the shims 29.- Turning simultaneously the supports 30 of the bipod shaft counterclockwise (when viewed from the side of the spline end of the bipod shaft), eliminate the meshing gap.- Carry out the adjustment in the position of the bipod shaft UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519, corresponding to the middle position of the toothed sector. - Check the torque of the bipod shaft, it should be within 35–45 Nm (3.5–4.5 kg / cm) when moving over the middle position.- Install the adjusting washers 29 and circlips 28, bend one of the antennae in both adjusting washers into the groove of the bipod shaft support. - Tighten the locking bolts and locknuts 25 to a torque of 8-10 Nm (0.8-1.0 kg / cm). - Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. - Bleed air from the power steering system.In the event of failure of the power steering booster UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519 due to damage to the pump, destruction of the hose or pump drive belt or when towing
due to engine stop, use the steering gear only for a short time.If there is no oil in the UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519 hydraulic booster system, it is necessary to remove the pump drive belt, otherwise the pump may jam and the belt may break.With the pump drive belt removed on cars with ZMZ engines, it is necessary to carefully monitor the temperature of the coolant, since the engine may overheat.Prolonged operation of the vehicle with an inoperative hydraulic booster leads to premature wear of the steering mechanism. Image - DIY uaz hunter gur pump repair

Fig. 2. Power steering pump drive for UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519 cars with UMZ engines

1 - tension screw; 2 - fastening bolts; 3 - pulley of the power steering pump; 4 - drive belt for the power steering pump; 5 - crankshaft pulley

The tension of the drive belt of the power steering pump UAZ-315195, UAZ-31519 (see Fig. 2) is carried out by moving the pump along the bracket for attaching to the engine.

To do this, loosen the bolts securing the pump to the bracket, move the pump with the tensioning screw until the belt tension is normal and tighten the pump mounting bolts.

Replace the belt if it is found to be damaged or if it is overstretched.

Checking the level and changing the hydraulic booster oil for power steering UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519

When checking the oil level in the oil tank, the front wheels must be straight.

Add oil to the level of the filler strainer of the oil tank or not more than 5 mm higher than it.

The oil must be pre-filtered through a filter with a filtration fineness of no more than 40 microns.

Refuel the steering system UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519 in the following order:

- Disconnect the bipod link from the bipod or hang out the front wheels.

- Remove the oil tank cap, fill with oil until it appears above the filter mesh (no more than 5 mm).

- Without starting the engine, turn the steering wheel or the input shaft of the mechanism from lock to lock until the end of the exit of air bubbles from the oil in the tank. Add oil to the tank.

- Start the engine while adding oil to the tank.

- In case of abundant foaming of the oil in the tank, which indicates that air has entered the system, stop the engine and let the oil settle for at least 20 minutes (until air bubbles leave the oil).

- Inspect the connection points of the hoses to the units of the power steering system UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519 and, if necessary, eliminate the leaks.

- Let the engine run for 15 - 20 seconds and bleed the power steering system to remove residual air from the steering mechanism by turning the steering wheel from lock to lock, without holding it in the extreme positions, three times in each direction.

- If necessary, add oil to the tank.

- Close the tank with the lid and tighten the lid nut by hand.

- Attach the bipod rod, tighten and cotter the ball stud nut.

Rice. 3. Flow and safety valves of the power steering pump UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519

1 - flow valve spool; 2 - safety valve spring; 3 - guide of the safety valve spring; 4 - safety valve ball; 5 - spool spring; 6-seat safety valve; 7 - filter; 8 - ring; 9 - plug-cap; 10 - sealing gasket; 11 - adjusting gaskets

Maintenance of the flow and safety valves of the power steering pump UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519

If the flow and safety valves are dirty, flush them. To do this, do the following:

- Unscrew the plug 9 (Fig. 3) located above the outlet of the power steering pump UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519.

- Take out the spring 5 and the spool 1 of the flow valve, and put the plug-plug in place, which will prevent the oil from leaking out.

- Unscrew the safety valve seat 6, remove the ball 4, guide 3 and spring 2. Remove the ring 8 and filter 7 from the safety valve seat.

- Rinse the parts and blow with compressed air.

- Assemble in the reverse order. Observe cleanliness during assembly.

- During disassembly and assembly, in order not to disturb the adjustment of the safety valve, do not change the number of shims 11.

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Otto
Participant
Inactive

Where: 44 ° 42'46.7 "N 37 ° 46'50.9" E
Registered: 18.09.2012
Posts: 619

Video (click to play).

Gentlemen, the steering gear on the hunter began to leak. It flows from above, from under the flange, where the spline part of the shaft comes out. For three vessels, about 1 cm from the tank with the engine off.

I suspect it started after replacing the steering tips with a sledgehammer.
Who faced, tell me, is there a point to change the oil seal, or what is there? or it is necessary to change the entire gearbox assembly - it is somehow dumb - almost 8tyr

In general, the removal of the installation itself is too gimmicky? Where in NOvorossiysk, Gelendzhik, Kabardinka, Anapa can be done for money and how much would it cost?
Leave your phone number, or in a personal message with suggestions, if not difficult.
Thanks in advance.

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