A very helpful article! And although I have a Hyundai H1 4x4 Starex 4WD, I think that these tips are very, very useful to me. My Gur is stuck (most likely - the bearing). Disassembled. As soon as I find a bearing and a repair kit for it, I will collect it. Wish I saw this article before. I had to suffer with unscrewing the return hose from the fitting. It was only necessary to put a wrench on the lower part of the fitting, and unscrew the upper one.
Very helpful article. I myself am now suffering with gur Ford EXP3 4.6. And howls and tight ... to sort out nodo ... There is already a mess in my head from studying and generally searching for information ....
Motorists know how much nerve is wasted when power steering problems appear. The steering wheel behaves strangely and turns much more difficult at idle or low revs. A whistling sound is heard from the pump bearing. Leakage of working fluid onto the engine or onto the road at the location of the unit. The rotation of the steering shaft is accompanied by extraneous sounds.
These inconveniences can affect not only the nervous health of the driver, but also driving safety. What to do if the pump shows symptoms of malfunctioning? How to replace this power steering part? Is it possible and how to carry out repair work on your own? We will tell you more about everything below.
The manifestations of pump breakdowns described above, in reality, may not be associated with the pump itself. Therefore, first you need to carefully examine the entire power steering system. And only if the problem is not found, start working with the pump itself.
The former can only be determined by disassembling the power steering pump and inspecting each of its components. As for the second type of malfunctions, first of all, you need to answer the questions - how much time has passed since the fluid in the system was changed? Was the fluid selected according to the instructions? Is its level sufficient? And in case of airing, it is often enough to pump the hydraulics to restore the power steering.
In any case, manufacturers recommend doing a full bulkhead and cleaning if any problems arise with the pump. This will help reduce the likelihood of wear and therefore increase the life of the entire system.
The repair is conventionally divided into several stages: preparation, dismantling of the pump, preliminary inspection, replacement of parts and / or elimination of damage, reassembly and installation.
To carry out repairs you will need: tools; rags; comfortable, spacious and clean place. Of the tools you will need:
For repair you will need: a repair kit from a car dealer, or to replace it with washers, a gasket, O-rings and an oil seal. A suitable working bearing can also come in handy if that's the case.
First you need to dismantle the power steering pump. Then disassemble and inspect each component of the unit for damage, and then repair them. If the malfunction cannot be corrected, then from the next paragraph you will learn how to replace the pump by dismantling it and installing a new one.
Disconnecting the power steering pump and disassembling it is a painstaking process, so the first thing to do is to take more time for this process and stock up on nerves.
This is the third stage in which you need to determine where and what happened to the pump. To do this, you should:
If you notice burrs and roughness that appear as a result of wear, we remove them with sandpaper. Polishing allows you to remove gaps between parts and restore tightness. It is also used as a preventative measure to keep the pump clean and in working order.
Summing up all that has been said, after disassembly, repairs are carried out in several ways, depending on the breakdown. These are: bearing replacement; replacement of a repair kit; removal of burrs, roughness and unevenness; complete cleaning of the pump from wear and tear elements.
The assembly and installation of the pump in the car is carried out in the reverse order. When the installation process is complete, use the information from the last paragraph, and you will not have to repeat the procedure that this article is about for a very long time.
Do not forget that repairing the power steering pump with your own hands can lead to additional damage. Therefore, carrying out this procedure, you need to do everything with the utmost care so as not to aggravate and not completely break the pump.
In conclusion, it is necessary to touch upon the topic of prevention. To reduce the risk of power steering malfunctions, simple rules should be followed:
This will ensure stable operation of both the pump and the entire hydraulic booster system.
VIDEO
I will tell you how I repaired the power steering pump. But first, a little background.
The steering wheel on a cold car in summer and winter works flawlessly. But as soon as the car warms up, especially in the summer, the steering wheel on the XX becomes very tight, as if the power steering is not there. In winter, this problem does not manifest itself so strongly, but it is still present. If you put it on the gas, the steering wheel immediately turns with ease (though not quite ideal, but still lighter). At the same time, the pump does not knock, does not ring, nor leaks, etc ... (do not take the snotty rail into account) the oil is fresh and perfect (especially, thanks to the state of the rail, it is updated regularly!), The cardan is lubricated and does not wedge!
In general, there is a sign of the lack of performance of the power steering pump with hot oil at XX. I didn't suffer for a long time, in the end I decided to deal with this problem, spent a lot of time, rummaged through the Internet, understood the principle of the pump, found a similar description and decided to sort out my "old" pump.
And so, first of all, we remove the pump, it is necessary to drain all the slurry from it (how to remove it and drain the liquid, I think everyone will figure it out), also, on the back cover of the power steering, you need to unscrew four bolts with a 14 head.
After we begin to carefully remove the cover, try not to damage the gasket (this gasket with an internal rubber seal), in the power steering body we leave the outer part of the "working ellipse cylinder" (hereinafter simply the cylinder). There is no need to be scared when the lid moves away from the case, it may seem that it is moving away due to the influence of the spring, during reassembly it will seem to you that it does not fit into place, just continue to carefully and alternately tighten the bolts diagonally, then everything will fall into place ...
Carefully inspect the contents and remember (you can take a photo) what stood where and how (more attention should be paid to the position of the cylinder). You can twist the power steering pulley and gently check with tweezers how the blades move in the grooves of the shaft.
All parts should be pulled out without effort, since they do not have any fixations, but the central axis is fixed rigidly, it cannot be removed.
We inspect the shaft from the back side, parts (power steering body and cover wall) touching them, for scoring or grooves, everything is perfect for me.
Now we take out the entire internal economy on "clean" rags and begin to study it.
We carefully examine the shaft, all its grooves have very sharp edges on all sides. One of the end sides of each groove has a pronounced sharpening inward, which, when the blade moves inside the groove with a constant slope to this side, will greatly complicate its movement (this may be the first component of the poor operation of the power steering). The lateral parts of the grooves of the shaft are also "sharpened", this can be felt if you slide your finger in different directions along the end (outer circumference), as well as along the lateral parts of the shaft in different directions. The rest of the shaft is perfect, does not have any flaws and notches.
The faults were found, now we are starting to eliminate them.
We need a rag, white alcohol, sandpaper with a grit of P1000 / P1500 / P2000, a triangular file, a 12mm drill (or more) and an electric drill. With the shaft, everything is much simpler, you need a P1500 sandpaper and we begin to clean all the edges of the grooves on the shaft (we clean the outer and lateral on both sides) in all possible ways. We work without fanaticism, the main task is to remove only sharp burrs.
For one thing, you can immediately polish both sides of the shaft on a flat surface, it is advisable to use P2000 sandpaper.
Next, you need to check the result of our work, check it visually and by touch, everything is perfectly smooth and does not cling.
The most difficult thing will have to do with the surface of the cylinder, I personally have nothing simpler, I have not figured out how to make a spherical grinder from a skin, a drill and a thick drill (F12). To begin with, we take a P1000 skin and such a drill, which can be crammed into a drill.
Next, you need to tightly wind the skin against the rotation of the drill, in two or three turns, there should be no gaps.
Holding the tightly twisted structure, you need to insert it into the drill (clamp the skin too).
Then, in the most convenient ways for you, we carefully begin to grind the cylinder, you need to grind evenly, press the cylinder tightly and move it relative to the axis of rotation (at maximum speed). As we eat the skin, we change it, eventually we reach the smallest skin P2000.
The desired result is obtained,
now everything must be thoroughly wiped with a path with white alcohol. The shaft itself with blades can be rinsed in it.
After we start the assembly, everything is put in the reverse order of removal.
Power steering power steering, device, repair, operation.
Attention! A proven method!necessarily lock on the reverse side with nuts. (otherwise the thread will rip off)
The same problem came up. I had to throw the steering wheel over a couple of slots, so I could not remove it. I had to disconnect the steering shaft and rearrange it in the splines. There is a barbaric way, but this steering wheel is painfully flimsy for him to the touch. You can unscrew the retaining nut, disconnect the shaft and loosen the steering column bearing. One pulls the steering wheel towards itself, and the other hits the end of the steering shaft with a heavy hammer. You can make a fittings from a nut screwing onto the steering shaft by half of its thread and a bolt screwing into this nut. And it is more convenient to knock on the bolt.
I have one that they put on the latest new UAZs, so it can be removed with a puller without problems. There, under the plastic patch, there are two special holes for this purpose.
Everything is very simple - you need a thick (5-6 mm) plate with two holes for M8 bolts screwed into the steering wheel hub. The plate rests on the shaft, the bolts are tightened, the wheel is pulled together. You can drill holes in place by measuring the distance between the holes with a vernier caliper.
A 15x15 corner is taken, a piece of length is sawn off from it
20 cm.In it, in turn, 2 holes are drilled at a distance the same as the holes in the steering wheel (2 threaded holes into which the bracket for the bibical is passed), it is applied to the steering shaft and wrapped through the holes through the corner, which was two fools bolt М8. The bolts pull the steering wheel towards themselves, and the corner, respectively, rests on the shaft, the steering wheel is pulled together. I changed mine from the usual to the luxury one. And I wanted to help my friend remove the new steering wheel on the zero car - so he unscrewed his head nafig on one bolt - then he spent an hour turning out the stub - so make up your mind.
Before shooting, pour VDshka or Unisma! It will go easier !!
It is pulled up by a simple device made from a sheet of an old spring. You take a leaf of the spring and bend one edge of it (cm 5-7) under 90 degrees. With this thing, the steering tips are very easily tightened, only the wheels must be removed so that they do not interfere.
Can be tightened with a chisel. To do this, you will have to remove the rods (not the tips, but all the rods - while the convergence will not suffer) and holding the hinges in a vice, release the plugs (by unscrewing or twisting, if necessary. I tightened harder than in the primer - all the way and 1/4 back. everything is OK.By the way, even the new tips are wrapped 2.5 turns.
To adjust the gearbox, unscrew the cap nut on the side of the gearbox housing (a large one, a key for 28 or 30, I used an adjustable one), remove the lock washer, tighten the adjusting screw with a “square” until the backlash is eliminated and assemble in the reverse order. It is also necessary to check the condition of the ends of the steering rods, very often the steering backlash is due to them.
Before adjusting the steering wheel - to the central position and tighten not according to the very "I do not want", but wisely. The witness himself, when the worm in the over-tightened gearbox was biting into extreme positions. Very unpleasant, especially on the road.
It so happened that on my 91 thousand "loaf" the resource of the steering gear was completely exhausted. That is, the backlash was not eliminated by the adjusting screw, moreover, it became very tight to turn the steering wheel. In short, I decided to change the entot device. I read the ABC book, bought a new gearbox. and on Saturday together with a friend began to poke around. The first thing they ran into was the removal of the steering wheel. You need a special puller, and instead only a set consisting of a hammer and a sledgehammer and a long list of obscene expressions. After an unsuccessful hour of work with this set, the commander's decision came to cut off the steering column with a "grinder". No sooner said than done, only the people from the neighboring garages looked at this operation in a strange way. Next, you need to remove the steering bipod. There was a puller for this operation, but in the process of its implementation it was gone. I had to remove the cover with the adjusting screw, insert a “locomotive” key between the gearbox housing and the steering bipod and separate these parts with the blows of a 10-kg sledgehammer on the steering bipod shaft. The remnants of the old gearbox were thrown away, the transmission synthetics (GL5) were poured into the new one and everything was put in place.
UAZ does not produce military bridges + power steering vehicles (except for "Bars"). In my opinion, the problem is that military bridges have a greater angle of rotation of the wheel (or it is known that the power steering is unreliable.) not one of the strongmen), on bumps I try not to turn the steering wheel too much unnecessarily (or do I see some special bumps?) [Commodore]
I have had a power steering for a year (with military bridges), and I must say that I am very pleased with it.
In my opinion, this is a matter of habit. There is one more thing. What did you drive before? The base is short, so it prowls along the road. This is not even a generic feature of the Ulyanovsk all-terrain vehicles, but a feature inherent in all short-range vehicles. So far I have been driving the "goat" and have not noticed any yaw. Hands themselves already automatically corrected the movement of the car imperceptibly for me. But as soon as I took a ride in a long-wheelbase car, I was horrified when I got into my own “goat”. And before that I went and did not notice.
The problem can be solved, but only in a complex. Install a steering damper, good shock absorbers, eliminate all backlash in the steering rods, gearbox, swingarm, bearings, etc. and install good tires. It will get much better. But it won't be perfect anyway, it's not VW. You just have to get used to it. Do not think that if the car is new, then there is still no backlash. That is why (because the car is new) it is still very poorly made. Everything must be checked and tightened / changed / adjusted. If done by hand, everything will be fine.
1. Eliminate imperfections and backlashes. 2. Get used to 3. Not voiced by previous speakers: there are Guras with, so to speak, with a "minor" drawback - the actuation of this device with a slight delay, with zero information content of the steering wheel, this leads to "overrun".
In fact, it is more reliable, and by the way and cheaper, imported from disassembly, for example from Chevrolet. In Vadik's "Black Cuttlefish", for example, there is, after two of our untimely dead.
I myself got myself a hydrach on a UAZ, I attached a W-123 body from Merce. I installed the gearbox without any problems, but I had to tinker with the pump.Put it together with the steering column and all the switches and the ignition switch! And it took about two days, taking into account all the preparatory work!
The product of joint production of OJSC “Avtodetal-Service” (Ulyanovsk) and the firm “ZF Lenksysteme” (Germany) for the production of a Steering gear with a hydraulic booster (31608-3400500) (hereinafter “Mechanism”) for UAZ cars of the brand: passenger cars 3160, 3162, 3163 and cargo UAZ 2360- "Pickup".
The complete set of the "Mechanism" includes parts manufactured by ZFLS (Germany): a high-pressure pump, a distributor with a screw and a piston - with a rack assembly, needle injection and drain hoses, an oil tank, a tank clamp, a bracket, a pump holder, a poly V-belt pulley , fasteners.
Test tests gave the following results (tests were carried out on a serial UAZ-31622):
You can rotate, but it is undesirable to ride like this for a long time. This option was from the factory - a gearbox from a power steering, but there was no pump and other things. He traveled several thousand - then the backlash in the gearbox increased.
The invention is not mine, it is from the ancients and the chorus. forgotten "experienced advice". In quality anthers USE ball finger covers from ZAZ-968 A, M, slightly cutting them off from above.
A complete list of components, as well as a drawing and description of the power steering, installation procedure, operation and maintenance of the power steering HERE.
According to rumors, Sterlitamak is of better quality than Borisov, although it is "tighter" (the gear ratio is less). Outwardly, the Sterlitamak hoses run one after the other from above, while the Borisov hoses run one on top and one on the side.
According to the Ulyanovsk craftsmen, the Borisov power steering is more reliable. Also, power steering, in my opinion, differ in the number of revolutions of the steering wheel (3 and 5).
The Borisov power steering is really very powerful, even on 35s with -19 discs it turns without feedback. But Sterlitamak is much more informative.
The plant does not make wagon-type cars with power steering - the issue is being resolved; cars of a wagon layout, on gear axles and with power steering (and without power steering) does not at all.
Everything turned out surprisingly well for me. Although at first I found out that power boosters are not put on a loaf. But there was no strength to fight with the steering wheel (especially on the off-road) and decided to mount the usual UAZ hydraulic booster by means of a cunning bracket. From Ulyanovsk, they brought me a factory kit for installation on the UAZ-31514. When I found out what these hydraulic boosters are doing in Belarus in the glorious city of Borisov, we decided to go to the plant with a mechanic - to consult. And lo and behold - it turns out a month ago the factory workers made 5 hydraulic boosters specifically for loaves and went to Ulyanovsk to offer them to UAZ, but UAZ refused this development under the pretext that the stamping of the body had to be changed for this wetsuit. So they came back with these gidrikas (luckily for us). In short, we bought ourselves one for $ 50. Became like a native. With the steering column, I was a little perverted - I put MAZovskaya, with an adjustable tilt. As for the stamping, there was no need to cut the floor. car lifted under the 33rd rubber.
There is the most traditional rack-and-pinion worm gearbox, it is good precisely because it is light - it is easy to turn on the spot, and on the track, but it returns to zero itself, just hold it. The same is bad - on bumps it “responds” with lightning speed and mercilessly - I, having broken two fingers with an old three-spoke steering wheel, put a weighted two-spoke steering wheel (in general, in my opinion, it is the most convenient of the existing ones).
The second option - Borisov or "luxury" has a powerful gearbox, due to which it is less sensitive, does not hit the hands, does not require strong steering on the track at high speeds. But it turns tighter than the first one and returns to zero itself less intensely, which, at least, annoys me.
Auto mechanics in life, lovers of repairing a broken part, try to do the repair with their own hands. It develops skills, saves money, but sometimes it takes a lot of time. Today we will consider whether it is possible to repair the power steering pump with our own hands and, if so, how to do it yourself.
Although the power steering pump is experiencing significant loads, it does not break down so often if it is properly operated. Due to the not particularly complex design of the pump, it is quite possible to repair it yourself.
Fluid tank.
Control spool.
The pressure regulator in the amplifier system.
Pump.
Power cylinder.
The pump is driven by a belt. Through the belt, rotation is transmitted from the crankshaft to the pump shaft. During pump operation, the system reaches a maximum pressure of 150 bar (atmospheres) or 15 MPa. The basis for the correct operation of the pump is the clearances set by the factory, which should be in the range from 0.05 to 0.1 mm. If the pump is badly worn, the clearances increase, and the driver feels that the steering wheel has begun to turn harder.
Modern cars are created with maximum comfort for the driver and passengers. So that the driver can easily turn the steering wheel (even with one finger), power steering is installed. It can be electric (EUR) or hydraulic (power steering).
In addition to facilitating the rotation of the steering wheel, the EUR and GUR softens and absorbs shocks on bumps. Also, the power steering keeps the steering wheel straight, even if the tire is burst.
Although installed vane and vane pumps in the power steering structure do not break so often, we will nevertheless consider what are the signs and how to extend the life of the pump.
Change the liquid on time. Few people change the oil in the hydraulic booster, but it becomes obsolete and loses its properties. Therefore, it is necessary to do this.
Monitor the fluid level in the power steering reservoir.
Try not to turn the steering wheel when the internal combustion engine is not working. If the fluid in the power steering system does not move, the pump overheats. The oil does not move if turned many times with the engine stopped.
When changing the oil, be careful not to get debris.
Subject to the rules of operation, the power steering serves for a long time. Check oil level periodically. When adding fluid, add only the same grade.
If there are difficulties with turning the steering wheel at idle and at low speeds. At high revs, there are no problems with turning the steering wheel.
If you find a fluid leak from the power steering system.
If extraneous sounds become audible during rotation of the steering wheel.
If a whistling or humming sound is heard from a bearing. If the bearing is removed, then there will be a backlash during the rolling of the pulley.
Before you start disassembling the device, you need to check if there is an air lock in the system that interferes with the movement of liquid. It is because of the air lock that most often malfunctions occur in hydraulic systems. That is, the first thing we do is pump the power steering. If after this the reasons have not disappeared, then we proceed to dismantle the hydrach, disassemble it and repair the system parts.
We do a complete cleaning of dirt. When doing this, make sure that no dirt gets into the hoses.
Remove the drive belt.
Drain the oil as much as possible.
Now you need to put a mark on the power steering shaft relative to the elastic coupling (for this you have to crawl under the car). Unscrew the steering wheel shaft using the hexagon.
We dismantle the steering rods. To do this, you need to raise the left side of the car with a jack and remove the wheel. Usually, to remove the rods, you need to use a special puller. But, in this case, you can do it without a puller.
We take a 15 socket wrench and loosen the power steering bolts to the side member. This is done from the side of the wing arch. Unscrew 2 bolts completely, leave one in place.
Now, what remains in the hoses must be drained. To do this, we substitute a cut empty canister or other container.
When the liquid has flowed out of the hose, you need to plug them with rags.
Now you need to unscrew the remaining one bolt. We unscrew it with one hand, and hold the hydrach device with the other.
Carefully, slowly take out the pump.
First, we inspect if the case is broken, if there is metal corrosion. In the process of disassembly, usually, the cause of the breakdown is found out. Next, we disassemble the pump into its component parts.
The circlip holds the bearing. This ring must be removed with a puller.
Remove the rear cover securing bolts. The cover is removed with a slotted screwdriver. It must be removed carefully so that the blades do not fly out and the pump housing.
Those who do not remember the location the first time are advised to take blank A4 sheets of paper, number them on them and spread them out. During the disassembly process, the parts are laid out on these sheets in a specific order. You also need to remember that the blades with the rounded part must then be installed outward.
Now you need to remove the plate and the parts under it.
After that, we proceed to remove the shaft. It must be carefully knocked out, for this you can use a brass hammer or a rubber hammer, which is used by master tilers.
The bearing must be pressed out of the removed shaft.
If the problem was in the bearings, that is, it can wedge, or crumbled, or simply rotates tightly, then we press in a new bearing.
In addition to the bearing, it is necessary to check all the parts of the device and, if necessary, replace them.
At this stage, when the failed parts are replaced, it is necessary to assemble the power steering device.
There are very important components, devices and parts in the design of a car, but there are less important ones. It is necessary to monitor especially important nodes often. If signs are found, try to eliminate the cause as soon as possible.
This video shows the device and principle of operation of the power steering pump of the Chevrolet Aveo
VIDEO
How to repair the power steering pump yourself
VIDEO
repair, information for maintenance, car news, reviews, diagnostics, forum
Those who have already encountered car breakdowns know for sure that it will be a little costly to make repairs in service centers. Much easier than ever, the most important thing is to do it yourself. With a little knowledge and effort to this process. The inherent content of the material will allow you to get acquainted with an independent repair of the power steering pump. You can also carry out diagnostics to identify malfunctions in the operation of the pump itself.
The most difficult dismantling is to release the pump from disconnecting the supply hoses with pipes and draining the hydraulic fluid. Initially, we loosen the belt or uncouple the gear drive, then unscrew it from the attachment to the engine block. We flush the housing from the accumulation of dirt.
Next, we disassemble the pump body itself, very carefully remembering this moment how everything is attached (or otherwise there will be a problem during assembly), then we thoroughly clean all the components from the inside from dirt.
4. Uneven surface of the inner part of the cylinder (stator).
We examine the rotor, paying attention to the grooves: their edges should be smooth and sharp, without chips and notches.
Next, we look at the inner working surface of the stator, it often happens that its wear is the cause of problems with the power steering pump.
All that we may need in the upcoming work is this!
alcohol (best of all White Spirit, aka solvent gasoline or a can of WD40 liquid);
sandpaper (from P2000 to P1000);
cloth or soft paint brush;
small file or file;
electric drill;
Rotor cleaning is reduced to the elimination of irregularities and burrs of the grooves, as well as to grinding the rotor surface.
Gloved work is best as the edges of the rotor are very sharp; try to keep the movement smooth and even for a smoother finish.
The algorithm is as follows:
First, we make a rough cleaning with a file, then smooth it with coarse sandpaper and finish it with a sandpaper.
It is easier to adapt an electric drill using a drill and sandpaper. You will get a kind of mini-grinder by screwing sandpaper onto a drill with a diameter of at least 12 mm (against the movement of the drill rotation). When grinding with a self-made unit, you must try to evenly distribute the load over the entire surface, unnecessarily not zealous and not forgetting to change the skin from coarse to the finest.
After finishing with grinding, we will bring the power steering pump to its original working condition. Carrying out the assembly process in the reverse order, it will be useful to first check whether the shaft rotates easily inside the pump itself.
The final touch will be to install the cover in place, with the preliminary installation of a new gasket. During the assembly process, the cover is easily tightened with four bolts. It is best to pull them crosswise, thereby achieving an even, accurate fit of the cover plane to the stator.
Now the pump is now again in a new state. Nevertheless, it will take a long time before you will have to repeat this procedure again!
Watch a video lesson of self-repair of the power steering pump.
Video (click to play).
Watch a video lesson how the power steering system works.
Remove the axle bolt that secures the pump to the bracket and replace it with a screwdriver or a metal rod of a suitable diameter in order to lock the pulley. Then unscrew the nut that secures the pump pulley.
