DIY pump repair

In detail: do-it-yourself pump repair with a caliber from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The Kalibr trademark appeared on the domestic market in 2001. Quality household tools and electrical equipment from China are represented under this brand. The founders of the company set it as their goal to provide Russian buyers with relatively inexpensive but trustworthy goods.

The brand presents tools and equipment for the construction of summer cottages, their repair and arrangement of autonomous life support systems. The quality of the supplied products is monitored by Russian specialists, so complaints about the brand's products on the Internet are extremely rare..

The owners of summer cottages and cottages will undoubtedly be pleased with the wide range of household pumping equipment sold by Kalibr. Centrifugal, submersible, borehole, drainage and circulation pumps are sold under this brand. Pumping stations for the home are also widely represented.

Brand pumps are divided into classes according to the depth of water rise, the type of working chamber and the position of the unit (in the well and well, or on the surface).

In terms of depth, the equipment can be:

By design type, all pumps are divided into:

  • for those working on the vibration principle;
  • and centrifugal.

By location relative to the source of water supply, the units are divided:

The brand presents on the market several series of pumping equipment at once, designated by special abbreviations.

The series includes self-priming surface units that are powerful enough and capable of lifting water from a depth of twenty-five meters. Letters are added to the series marking, indicating the material from which the case is made:

Video (click to play).

Almost all models are equipped with external ejectors. Therefore, they can be installed in the house without any fear - there will be no extraneous noise Image - DIY pump repair

disturb tenants.

The unit has two working chambers - a motor and a pump. The suction of water is due to the torque and the creation of a vacuum zone by the working disk inside the "snail" of the pump compartment. The mechanism works according to the centrifugal principle. For the normal functioning of the water supply system, the installation of a check valve is required.

  • power - from 370 to 1 kW (depending on the model);
  • maximum head - from 23 to 60 meters (depending on the presence of an ejector);
  • productivity - from 1.8 to 4.8 cubic meters per hour.
  • before starting the unit, it is required to pour water into the "snail" of the pumping chamber;
  • only used with clean water.

The cost is from 5,000 to 7,000 rubles.

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The series includes submersible units for wells operating on a centrifugal principle. Such pumps do not require the use of an ejector or a water intake pipe - water flows freely through the body of the product and rises through the pipes.

The body has an elongated cylindrical shape and a small diameter. It is made exclusively of stainless steel, as it works at great depths in water. The pumping chamber contains a complex blade mechanism (impeller), which, using centrifugal force, provides water supply.

Advantages:Image - DIY pump repair

  • affordable price;
  • ease of operation and maintenance;
  • reliability;
  • long service life;
  • overheating protection due to water circulation;
  • the ability to work with water containing sandy impurities (up to 1 mm).
  • relatively low productivity;
  • for routine inspection, the unit must be removed from the well.

Price from 6 800 to 10 000 rubles.

a series of pumps designed for watering vegetable gardens. These are vibration-type units operating on the surface or submerged in water.

Inside the body of such a pump there is a magnetic coil and an armature with a piston. When the engine is switched on to the electrical network, the magnet causes frequent oscillations of the armature and the movement of the piston - water is pushed into the pipes.

  • power from 200 to 700 watts;
  • head from 40 to 70 meters;
  • productivity - 40 liters per minute.
  • low cost;
  • ease of use;
  • low power consumption.

Flaws:Image - DIY pump repair

  • low productivity;
  • noisy work;
  • tendency to overheat;
  • Efficiency - 30-35%;
  • suitable exclusively for irrigation (can be installed in an autonomous water supply system only with a storage tank!).

The average price is 2,000 - 2,500 rubles.

A series of centrifugal drainage devices. The brand's pumps cope even with heavily contaminated water (suspensions). The device can be placed in liquid or kept on a surface.

The pumping chamber of the unit is capable of passing through itself large dirt particles up to 3.5 centimeters in size. Equally successfully, such a pump is used to pump out both drainage water from flooded basements and the contents of fecal wastewater and sewer pits.

  • head - 5-7 meters;
  • productivity - 18 cubic meters per hour;
  • power - 1.3 kilowatts.
  • affordable price;
  • reliability;
  • ease of operation and maintenance;
  • high performance.
  • cannot be used at great depths;
  • noisy work;
  • high power consumption.

The cost is from 3,500 to 5,000 rubles.

A series of circulation pumps for autonomous hot water heating systems operating on the surface. The units can be installed both in Image - DIY pump repair

horizontal and vertical position.

The unit is a circulation-type device with two working chambers. The engine compartment houses the engine, and the pumping compartment, made in the form of a snail, contains a wheel with blades. When the motor shaft rotates, a vacuum zone is created in the center of the impeller, which contributes to the suction of water. The liquid is then pushed into the pipes.

  • power - from 65 to 93 watts (this is the main indicator that determines the performance of the device);
  • head - from 4 to 6 meters;
  • productivity - 2.4 cubic meters per hour.

Advantages:Image - DIY pump repair

  • increasing the efficiency of the heating system;
  • affordable price;
  • ease of installation and maintenance;
  • reliability;
  • economical energy consumption.
  • blocks the heating system in the event of an emergency power outage.

The average price is 2,500 rubles.

The series includes pumping stations equipped with surface-type pumps operating on a centrifugal principle. Depending on the model, the station may have a built-in ejector or be delivered without it.

The accumulator tank is made in three versions: from plastic, stainless steel and cast iron. Less powerful pumps are equipped with ejectors.

  • power - from 800 to 1,600 watts;
  • head - from 40 to 70 meters;
  • productivity - from 3.6 to 4.5 cubic meters per hour.
  • ease of maintenance;
  • high performance;
  • ensuring uninterrupted water supply.
  • increased operating noise in models with an ejector;
  • high power consumption;
  • the need to pour water into the pump compartment before the first start-up of the station.

Price from 5,000 to 15,000 rubles, depending on the capacity of the equipment.

In such a variety of pumping equipment, it is quite difficult to navigate when choosing a pump. Experts advise first of all Image - DIY pump repair

determine the needs. It is necessary to clearly formulate for what purpose the pump is being purchased.

You will also need to determine the depth of the well or well, calculate the length of the pipeline, choose the type of pump location - in water or on the surface. These parameters are used to calculate the pump power, its performance and maximum head. If difficulties arise at this stage, it will be logical to seek professional advice.

The pump type is determined by its marking:Image - DIY pump repair

  • Drainage and fecal.For example, NPC - 250/15 NK, NPC - 250/5, NPC - 400/30, NPC - 450/25 NK. The first number indicates the power, and the second indicates the size of the filtered particles in millimeters.
  • Circulating: NTs - 65 / A, NTs - 93 / A. The number indicates the power of the equipment.
  • Surface centrifugal type: NBTs-0.37, NBTs-0.50 A, NBTs-0.55. The numbers here also indicate the power.
  • Submersible centrifugal type: NPCS 1.3 / 55, NPCS 1.6 / 75. The first number is the power, the second is the head created by the unit.
  • Submersible vibration type: NBV - 0.70-M, NBV-0.28 10m, NBV-0.28 25m. The first number of the marking indicates the power, and the length of the power cable is indicated in meters.

The installation features of the pump entirely depend on its location (in water or on the surface).

The surface model is connected in the following order:

  • a check valve is mounted on the hose;
  • the second end of the hose using an adapter (nipple) or branch pipe is connected to the pump intake;
  • the water inlet hose is lowered into the water and the pump is connected to the power supply.

For year-round use, the pump is placed in a caisson chamber or placed in a warm utility room.

The connection of a submersible vibration or centrifugal model is performed in a slightly different way:Image - DIY pump repair

  • a check valve is mounted to the pump;
  • the water pipe is attached directly to the valve itself;
  • a safety rope is tied to special pump loops, holding on to which the unit is lowered into the water;
  • the power cable is attached to the pipeline with plastic clips.

Correct operation of the equipment consists in regular inspections, lubrication and cleaning (relevant for centrifugal-type models). Surface models require water to be filled before the first run.

Pumps of this brand, despite the budgetary cost, have a fairly long service life. Typical problems are usually related to:

  • with depressurization or cable breakage;
  • silting of rotating blades;
  • drop in pressure due to loosening of the housing nuts (for vibration models).

The motor winding rarely burns out. Due to the low cost of equipment, the owners with such a breakdown most often purchase a new pump. An alternative way is to contact a repair shop. Rewinding and reanimation of the engine costs about 1,000 - 1,500 rubles.

In vibration models, the weak point is the oil seal, the wear of which causes the unit to leak.

  • Dismantle the pump casing and the motor housing. It is necessary to unscrew the three outer and four inner bolts (on the motor housing).
  • The pump compartment is removed (it is made in the form of a snail).
  • The bolt that holds the impeller is unscrewed.

An anchor is removed from the impeller, behind which there are oil seals, separated by an insert. They are removed together with the insert and replaced with new ones.
The assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

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To extend the service life and reduce the risk of breakdowns to a minimum, the owners are required to:

  • compliance with the operating rules (they are indicated in the instructions attached to the product);
  • and timely conduct of preventive examinations.

It is also necessary to comply with all technical requirements - take into account the immersion depth, install the equipment on a level surface (relevant for surface-type models), install a check valve, ensure the tightness of the entire system, and prevent the engine from overheating (especially for models that require preliminary water filling).

A drainage pump in a suburban area is a kind of magic wand in case of unforeseen situations. By design, it resembles equipment for the supply of drinking water, but it has the ability to move contaminated media with large inclusions.

Let's try to understand the weaknesses of the unit and find out if it is possible to repair the drain pump with our own hands, if necessary.

The ability to pump water with fine gravel, large inclusions of sand, organic debris is a very useful quality when you need to pump out water after flooding or drain a pond. Drainage units are designed to work in such conditions, but exceeding the load often leads to breakdowns.

It is better to get acquainted with the internal filling of the device immediately after purchase in order to imagine which parts may fail in case of clogging or breakdown. To do this, it is not necessary to open the case or disassemble - it is enough to study the diagram that is attached to the instructions for connecting and maintaining the device.

Apparatuses for private use in summer cottages do not differ in high power or complex filling. Unlike heavy industrial equipment, they are compact, relatively light (average weight - 3-7 kg), consist of steel or plastic parts, although cast iron is still used for the production of industrial models and some household ones.

The main components of the submersible mechanism are a pump unit that pumps water and an electric motor that rotates a shaft with blades. The motor is housed inside a robust casing, which is made of stainless steel or reinforced polypropylene and is double. Water circulates between the outer and inner walls, preventing cooling.

Modern models are equipped with thermal protection that is triggered when the device is overloaded. An impeller is attached to the axial shaft - a screw device that supplies liquid to the inside of the housing. When the unit is turned on, the impeller begins to rotate, pick up water from the outside and push it along the walls to the outlet. The first portion of water is replaced by the next - and so on until the mechanism stops.

The float switch regulates the frequency of operation. It monitors the level of liquid in a reservoir or natural reservoir, when it drops sharply, it turns off the device in automatic mode.

As you can see, the device of the drainage pump is quite simple, and if you have ever disassembled and cleaned a submersible well pump, then you can handle this category of equipment as well. The faecal aggregate, which has an additional unit for crushing too large particles, is slightly different.

The submersible is useful for cleaning deep tanks, for example, a well that has just been commissioned. The first liquid that has accumulated in it cannot be called drinking, since there are many large inclusions of sand and clay. During the day, it is necessary to pump out the contaminated liquid so that clean, usable water comes in its place.

Unlike a submersible pump, a surface pump is not used for deep tanks; it is more suitable for pumping water from a pool or basement when it is flooded. A hose for receiving dirty water is placed at the bottom of the container, the second hose is used to drain the drains.

If the pump is used in an emergency, it is appropriate to use a float device that will control the critical level of water rise. The plus is that the design of the mechanism allows you to pump liquid with large pieces of dirt - up to 5 cm (less often - 10 cm).

It is clear that the surface type aggregate differs in its structure. A working shaft and a wheel are fixed inside the metal case, and the motor can be different: for centrifugal products - single-phase with external ventilation, for self-priming products - asynchronous two-pole.

Despite the contamination of the pumping medium, do not allow the pump to operate with a liquid in which gasoline, kerosene or other oil products and chemicals are dissolved.

Both new equipment and those that have served for more than one year can break down. A newly purchased device may fail due to a manufacturing defect made during assembly: a damaged piston or an incorrectly connected valve. Often breakdowns occur due to inept installation, if:

  • lowered the unit to an insufficient depth;
  • allowed air to enter the water intake compartment;
  • the water inlet is above the water and is not covered with liquid.

These flaws are easy to fix with a simple check, but it is better not to allow them.

Most often, problems arise during the operation of the equipment. The manufacturer sets the control parameters within which it is necessary to act (they are declared in the technical passport of the product). If the equipment is used incorrectly, not for its intended purpose, it simply will not withstand the load.

For example, it is normal for a drainage device to pump dirty water. This means that problems can arise if you start moving clean drinking water (for which borehole and well models are designed). On the contrary, too coarse dirt clogs the filters, as a result of which the pump stops working.

Also, troubles await if the equipment is idle, in "dry" mode - overheating will surely happen, which cannot always be corrected on your own. As a result of an oversight, the matter can end up in expensive service repairs.

Lack of prevention, rare technical inspections can also cause breakdown. Many troubles can be avoided by preventing them by replacing one of the parts or by elementary cleaning.

There are a number of possibilities to repair the equipment with your own hands, provided that the broken part can be replaced with a new one or a simple technical procedure (for example, cleaning) can be performed. To do this, you will have to disassemble the case, make diagnostics, identify the problem and select an identical part.

Available actions include replacing a capacitor, impeller or float, repairing an electrical cable, fixing a shock absorber, removing large pieces of clay and sand stuck inside the housing.

If the cast-iron body is cracked, the valve is out of order, or the winding has stopped functioning, you should contact the service center or think about buying a new pump. Inexpensive Chinese-made drainage devices are inexpensive, so ordering serious professional repairs is impractical.

The flexible element - the cable - is always at risk, since due to regular twists and kinks (which often happens during transportation and reinstallation of equipment), the wires under the layer of plastic or rubberized protection break, as a result of which the pump power is cut off.

It is necessary to find the break point and make the connection. This operation is easy to carry out if a break occurs near the plug - you just need to strip and connect the wires, finally carefully insulating the place of work.

A broken cable in the area where the pump is connected will take longer to repair. First you need to remove the equipment from the water, wipe and dry it, then disassemble it to get to the internal connection block. Get ready for the fact that instead of hexagonal holes you will encounter triple ones, which will make it difficult to select a screwdriver.

The cover should be removed carefully, without jerking or force. By unscrewing the bolts holding the tension member, you will be able to see the cable and identify the area of ​​the break. We remove the worn-out piece, mount the cable in its original place, fasten the tensioning element, fix the bolts.

The engine is working properly, but the fluid has either stopped flowing altogether, or comes in in small, uneven jerks. There may be several reasons for the strange phenomenon:

  • Part of the supply line is clogged. This is a branch pipe or supply pipe. There is a kind of blockage from bundles of algae and pieces of clay. It is necessary to disconnect the pipes and clean them. It is possible that the pipe length is longer than the manufacturer's recommended length, and therefore there is not enough pressure to deliver the required power.
  • The impeller is worn out. Blades are bent or damaged. It is necessary to disassemble the device, replace parts, to begin with visually (as far as possible) determining the cause of the malfunction.
  • The fluid is saturated with dirt and debris. Therefore, the water has a thick consistency and is difficult to pump. We solve the problem by raising the suction hole a certain distance from the bottom, where sediment accumulates.
  • Engine power has noticeably decreased. That can be determined even by the sound. Possible malfunctions in the supply of electricity, failure of bearings, depressurization of the oil compartment. It is necessary to disassemble the case to clarify the cause of the breakdown and replace worn parts.

The most common problem is filter clogging. You can try running some clean water through the pump to clean the sieve and suction port. If this procedure does not help, disassemble the case and clean all chambers, removing pebbles, algae and chips.

When disassembling the unit, be sure to follow the manufacturer's diagrams or instructions. They will help to consistently remove parts, quickly find bolt attachment points. In some cases, wear on fasteners or loose nuts will cause parts to move, which will also affect the performance of the machine.

You connect the power supply - and the pump does not work, does not make noise and does not pump water. Prepare to inspect all equipment. The most common causes of engine failure are:

  • Disruption in the supply of electricity due to broken wires. We check the cable by touch and find the break point. If the emergency area is in the area of ​​connection to the pump, proceed as described above.
  • The stator winding is out of order. Happens due to dry running. If you cannot replace it yourself, contact a specialist.
  • Seized bearing... We check the part for suitability, according to the results of diagnostics, we clean or replace it.
  • The suction device is clogged with debris. We clean the blades and grate, check the integrity of the operating elements and the mesh.
  • The float switch has broken. To check its functionality, it is necessary to close the relay. The problem may be in the wire connecting the float to the pump.

If the capacitor is out of order, replacement is required. In some models, special access is provided to it, which is a separate hole in the case.

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When the pump is switched on to the network, it starts to work, however, after a while, it stops spontaneously. Most likely, a protective mechanism is triggered due to engine overheating.

A heating cable may be the cause. It is worth checking the correspondence of the mains voltage and the parameters set by the manufacturer. If the data does not match, you need to purchase a stabilizer.

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Shutdown can also occur due to clogging of the blades with debris. In this case, we recommend that you carry out a complete cleaning procedure, that is, open the housing, clean the inner chambers and impeller, and check the filter.

If blockages occur frequently, re-read the instructions for the product to determine the size of the fractions. Perhaps the pump is not designed for pumping liquid with large particles of debris - only a fecal pump is suitable for grinding

When the pump is turned on, plugs fly out or wires burn out.The reason should be sought in the details directly responsible for the wiring of electricity - the cable or the stator winding. The serviceability of the wires can be checked using a tester; if a worn-out area is found, the entire cable should be replaced or (if the gap is near the end) shorten it.

Winding repair is a laborious task and requires special knowledge. Even with a neatly drawn secondary winding, a short circuit cannot be ruled out. If you have no time to fiddle with a burned-out part, take the device to a service center - perhaps, after diagnostics, they will advise you to buy a new pump.

As you can see, both inevitable wear and a violation of the rules for operating the equipment can become the cause of wear of parts. To make the device last longer, try to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. For example, position the body so that the suction device is at a certain distance from the base of the tank and does not pick up coarse particles.

At least once a year, check the integrity of the cable and internal parts by disassembling the case as much as possible. Perform preventive cleaning, which will increase the life of the parts by several times. Do not confuse a drainage device with a faecal one - it does not have a special grinder and cannot cope with the movement of large inclusions.

Videos from craftsmen will help you properly organize the disassembly of pumps of various brands and troubleshoot yourself.

Overheating of the stator due to violation of the interval operation mode: