Do-it-yourself nocchi sr3 pump repair

A few words about the heating system: I have an open-type system with an expansion tank, a water column of almost 6 meters in two floors, a solid fuel boiler KCHM 5. The pump was purchased for rapid uniform heating of the entire system when the boiler was fired up, because there are about 300 liters in the heating system -350 water and while the water return pipe warms up, it took some time. As a result, the rooms farther from the boiler were always cooler, especially on the first floor. But after the installation of the circulation pump, all this remained in the past. Now about the technical characteristics of the pump (why this one?): At the time of purchase, I had no idea about such devices, so I completely trusted the sales assistant, explaining the features of the heating system. Nocchi variable speed wet rotor circulation pumps are intended for use in closed heating systems or systems with an open expansion tank. Engine power 710W, body material - cast iron, temperature of the pumped liquid up to 110 degrees, head of water column up to 6 meters, three positions of the capacity switch

are switched manually, the parameters of each position can be read in the instructions or on the plate on the pump housing, working pressure up to 10 bar, but this applies more to closed-type systems. Connection to a 220 volt network, there is a built-in capacitor. Nuts for connecting to the pipeline were included, also cast iron and with a thread size of one and a half inches. The pump connection looks like this

it is necessary that the axis of the engine is located strictly horizontally, this reduces the wear of the graphite bushings, two valves to shut off the water for repair or maintenance of the pump and a filter located on the suction pipe to prevent mechanical impurities (such as rust scale, etc.) from entering the pump. The insert itself into my heating system looks unusual.

this is a so-called injection type system, without the use of a bypass. The advantage is that there is no need to use expensive uninterruptible power supplies. And so in the photo, the thick pipe is the supply from the boiler, the suction pipe of the pump from the bottom, the water pressure after the circulation pump at an acute angle cuts into the main line forcing water to circulate throughout the system. It is very important for coal-fired boilers, when there is a power outage, the system works on natural circulation, and the boiler will not boil! In general, our heating system began to work much more efficiently with this pump! Parents also installed such a pump on a gas boiler and, according to the meter, gas savings of 25-30% during the heating season. So I recommend it!

Owners of autonomous heating no longer rely on the natural circulation of the coolant, forcing it to briskly run through the pipes using a circulation pump.

Considering that private houses are located, for the most part, at a considerable distance from all kinds of workshops and service centers, it is very important for the owner of such a dwelling to master the repair of a circulation pump for heating with his own hands.

The pump, like any other mechanism, needs periodic maintenance. Here's what the owner of such a device needs to do:

1. In the warm season, when the circulation pump is not working, turn it on every month for 15 minutes. Of course, the device should not work idle: if the heating system is currently empty (many drain the coolant for the summer), you just need to pump water from one container to another by connecting a pump to them using hoses. This will prevent oxidation of the shaft surface, which can result in blockage. And the bearing, thanks to such "training", will last longer.
2. During the heating season, periodically pay attention to how the pump works.Are there noises, vibrations, or other signs of defect development? Does the unit maintain the required system pressure? Is the engine getting too hot? A malfunction detected at an early stage is much easier to fix than an already severely neglected one.
3. If a coarse filter is installed in front of the pump, it must be periodically checked for contamination, even if a prepared heat carrier is used in the system (the filter can become clogged with rust washed off by the working medium from the pipe walls).
4. It is also necessary to check from time to time whether the amount of lubricant is sufficient in those places where it is provided.

During downtime, the gaskets in the pipes should be coated with a preservative grease, which will prevent them from drying out.

Make sure that the temperature of the coolant in the place where the circulation pump is installed (usually it is installed on the “return” in front of the boiler itself) does not exceed the permissible value.

The limit value is indicated in the passport of the device. For most models, the optimum temperature is 65 degrees.

Let's see how exactly they can be expressed and what the user should do in a given situation.

So, the main malfunctions of circulation pumps and how to fix them.

In this case, the first suspect is a fuse, if, of course, your model has one installed. He is sensitive to voltage surges, which, alas, are not uncommon in the countryside, and at the slightest threat to the engine melt, opening the electrical circuit. After replacing the fuse, the pump will return to serviceable condition.

If the fuse is intact, you should "ring" the mains wire and wiring, and also check the condition of the fuse or circuit breaker in the junction box. Perhaps he or some section of the wire needs to be replaced.

If everything is in order with the wiring, the winding of the electric motor may have burned out. Its condition is checked by measuring the resistance (we use a multimeter). When connected to the contacts of the working winding, the device should show 10 - 15 ohms.

Some pumps, in addition to the working one, also have a starting winding. Its resistance should be 35 - 40 ohms.

If “infinity” is displayed on the meter display instead of the indicated numbers, then the tested winding is burnt out. If the readings of the multimeter, on the contrary, tend to zero, then there is an interturn short circuit. In this case, when you try to turn on the pump, the fuses in the panel will be triggered.

The reason for the "strike" of the pump can also be a breakdown of the non-polar capacitor present in the starting winding circuit. In good condition, it has a capacitance in the range of 10 - 40 μF. If the meter reading is different from normal, the part needs to be replaced.

It is possible to undertake an independent repair of the electrical part, having sufficient experience in such a matter. In most cases, however, you have to rely on specialists.

In such a situation, the pump must be turned off, otherwise the motor winding may burn out. There may be several reasons for such a breakdown:

1. As mentioned, the shaft can become stuck due to prolonged downtime. Likewise, an impeller that has been inactive for a long time may stick to the housing. In such a situation, you need to disassemble the pump and turn the shaft forcibly. In order for the user to be able to do this, there is a notch on the shaft, which can be caught with a screwdriver. If you could not find it, disassemble the discharge mechanism and turn the shaft, grasping the impeller itself.
2. The impeller can become stuck due to a foreign object entering the chamber. By removing it, you resume the system.

To prevent this from happening in the future, install a mud filter at the pump inlet.

This is how the air accumulated in the system can manifest itself.To remove it, it is most rational to equip the heating circuit with an automatic air vent. In the meantime, he is not there, the air will have to be manually bleed. Immediately after this, the pump will stop making noise.

If you observe such a phenomenon, it makes sense to check the condition of the bearing. Most likely, it is worn out and needs to be replaced.

Bearings are always installed on the shaft and into the bore with an interference fit, in other words, they are pressed in.

In factories and workshops, a special tool is used for this - a puller.

Craftsmen who do not have such a contraption knock out the bearings with careful blows of a wooden hammer or make a primitive puller on their own. It consists of a pair of plates with holes through which two studs and nuts are threaded. One plate is abutted against the end of the shaft, the other against the bearing (it is put on the shaft, for which a hole of the corresponding diameter is made in it), after which it is necessary to tighten the nuts on the studs one by one and very gradually.

Pump vibration can also be caused by excessive cavitation. To solve this problem, it is necessary to increase the pressure at the inlet to the unit by raising the level of the coolant in the circuit.

The heating circulation pump is effective even in houses with a simple heating system, so you need to know how to choose the right appliance. Circulation pump for heating: how to choose, we will consider in this topic.

We will analyze the essence of a heating system with natural circulation at this link.

A heat pump for heating a home is not the most common option, but it is great for economical heating. In this article https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1207/otopitelnoe-oborudovanie/otopitelnye-pribory/teplovoj-nasos-dlya-otopleniya-doma.html we will consider the principle of operation of the unit and give an example of calculation collector.

The pump does not provide the required head or works for a very short period of time, after which it immediately turns off

By mixing up the contacts, you can even force the impeller to rotate in the opposite direction (in units with a 3-phase motor), which is the reason for the drop in head.

Having carefully studied the connection diagram given in the instructions for the product, you can probably detect an error and reconnect the pump correctly.

In anticipation of cold weather, it is necessary to bring the heating system on alert. With regard to the circulation pump, the following must be done:

1. Check the tightness of the pump connections to the piping. If a leak is found, the nut or coupling must be tightened slightly. If this does not help, you will have to replace the cracked gasket or seal. With a lack of experience, it is better to use fluoroplastic (FUM-tape) or Tangit Unilok linen thread for sealing pipe threaded connections.
2. If there is a strainer in front of the pump, check its condition and rinse if necessary.
3. Make sure there is sufficient grease in the motor and bearings.
4. It will not be superfluous to measure the voltage in the outlet with a multimeter, through which the pump will be connected to the network. There are cases when electricians in rural settlements, instead of a 2-phase voltage, supplied a 3-phase voltage (380 volts) to houses. Normal, 2-phase voltage parameters may also be abnormal. If the multimeter shows, for example, 235 V or 205 V instead of the required 220, you need to contact the appropriate service of the energy company.

If you have no complaints about the quality of the power supply and you could not find the coolant leaks, you should carry out a test run of the pump and let it run for some time. The absence of the above symptoms will show that the device is ready for the new heating season.

Since forced circulation is more efficient than natural circulation, circulating pumps are becoming more and more in demand.Circulation pump for heating systems - installation procedure and selection features, read carefully.

We will analyze the positive and negative aspects of the Leningradka heating system in the next topic.

DIY circulation pump repair - step by step instructions

DIY circulation pump repair

Circulation pumping devices are very popular with private house owners and summer residents. The range of pumping equipment is quite wide, but the general principles of the device are the same. Such equipment can stop from minor breakdowns. Take a broken pump to a service center? It costs money, and in many regions there are simply no service companies. Therefore, the household owner of the house must know how to repair the circulation pump with his own hands.

To understand how to independently disassemble, maintain, repair a circulation pump, you need to know its structure. Such equipment is arranged as follows:

• all units and mechanisms are located in the case, which is made of steel (mainly stainless), aluminum and other alloys;
• inside the case is located rotor motor;
• a wheel with wings is installed on the rotor - impeller, which is usually made from technical polymers.

Circulation pump device

After turning on the electrical circuit, the engine begins to rotate the rotor with the impeller attached to it. Liquid is supplied to the central part of the pump. The blades rotate and throw water or other coolant to the outside of the housing. Under the action of centrifugal forces, the liquid moves and enters the pump outlet.

Circulation pump in the heating system

There are currently two main types of circulating pumping devices on the market.

1. "Wet type" - in such equipment, the rotor is completely immersed in the pumped liquid. A significant advantage of this configuration is the cooling of the rubbing and heating parts by contact with the liquid. Such equipment works quieter and costs less. When installing it, it is necessary to maintain the position of the housing specified by the manufacturer (usually horizontal), since the rotor must be completely immersed in the liquid. Also, "wet" devices are easier to maintain, but very sensitive to the lack of fluid in the system (running "dry" can quickly damage the pump).
2. "Dry type" - in such devices, the pump motor is placed in a separate compartment or module, and the transmission of torque to the rotor is carried out through the drive device (clutch). Dry-type pumps are more efficient, but also have a more complex design. A dry pump can operate without damage and no fluid is present in the system, but doing so will result in increased wear on the drive.

Also circulation pumps can be divided into types according to the type of execution:

• monoblock;
• console, consisting of separate blocks.

In order not to disassemble and repair your equipment once again, it must be properly operated.

1. Never run the pumping device without liquid in the heating pipes.
2. Keep the volume of water pumped by the pump within operating specifications. Excess or decrease in the volume of pumped water, in relation to the indicators specified in the technical passport, is unacceptable. If the pump is designed to pump from 5 to 100 liters of water per hour, pumping 3 or 103 liters of water will wear it out a lot.
3. If your pump has been idle for a long time, turn it on for about a quarter of an hour once a month. This will help prevent oxidation of moving parts and subsequent damage.
4. Maintain the temperature in the water supply lines no more than 65 degrees. If the temperature of the coolant is exceeded, sediment can damage the moving parts of the pumping device.Water temperature over 65 degrees (for example, 70-80 ° C) contributes to the rapid wear of the equipment.

From time to time, preferably at least once a month, it is necessary to carry out an external examination and check the quality of your circulation pumping device.

Pump device option

1. Turn on the pump and check that there are no abnormal noises and excessive vibration during operation.
2. Check the pressure of the heating medium delivered by the pump. It must correspond to the indicators stated in the technical passport.
3. Make sure there is no excessive heating of the electric motor of the device.
4. Check the threaded flanges for grease and restore if necessary.
5. Make sure there is a ground connection between the pump body and the corresponding terminal.
6. Inspect the pump from all sides and make sure there are no leaks. Typically, such vulnerabilities are the interface between the pipeline and the pump housing. Check the level of tightening of the bolts and the normal condition of the gaskets.
7. Examine the terminal box. All wires must be securely fixed. The presence of moisture in the unit is unacceptable.

In circulating pumping devices, there are a number of typical malfunctions that you can eliminate yourself. Each block will describe the symptoms of a malfunction, its causes and DIY repair steps.

The reason may be oxidation of the motor shaft during prolonged pump downtime... Troubleshooting instructions.

1. Turn off the power to the equipment.
2. We remove water from the pump and pipelines adjacent to it.
3. Remove the screws securing the housing and the motor.
4. We dismantle the electric motor complete with the rotor.
5. We turn the rotor by hand, or with a screwdriver, resting against the working notch.

The next reason for such a malfunction may be ingress of foreign objects.

1. Turn off the power to the equipment.
2. We remove water from the pump and pipelines.
3. Remove the screws securing the housing and the motor.
4. We remove the foreign object.
5. We protect the inlet pipe of the pump with a mesh filter.

Also, the reason for the lack of rotation can be lack of power supply... To do this, we check with a tester that there is power at the terminals in the box and that the electrical wires are connected correctly.

The main reason for such a malfunction can be lack of power supply or insufficient voltage in the network... To eliminate it, it is necessary to check the voltage at the terminals with a tester and, if necessary, the correct connection of the device to the power supply.

Many electric pumps are fitted with a fuse. In case of power surges, it burns out and requires replacement.

This can be caused by limescale deposits between the stator and the rotating rotor. The malfunction is eliminated by dismantling the electric motor and cleaning it from limestone deposits.

The cause of such a malfunction may be the presence of air in the pipeline of the heating system. To eliminate it, it is necessary to release air from the pipes. For automatic venting, it is recommended to install an automatic unit in the upper pipe segment.

If a sharp noise is accompanied by increased vibration, then it is recommended to increase the pressure at the inlet to the pumping device. Insufficient head can be compensated for by an increase in the level of the coolant in the system.

The cause of such a malfunction is usually a strong wear of the bearing that ensures the rotation of the impeller. The malfunction is eliminated by replacing the worn bearing.

The cause of such a defect may be the wrong direction of rotation of the wheel with blades. The reason for this phenomenon is usually an incorrectly connected phase when three-phase equipment is connected.

Also, a decrease in head can be caused by an increased viscosity of the coolant, then the impeller encounters too much resistance.To eliminate it, it is necessary to clean the filter on the inlet pipe from deposits, check the cross-section of the inlet pipeline and set the necessary pump adjustment parameters.

Most likely, the cause of such a malfunction may be the incorrect connection of the wires in phases in the terminal box. The fuse on your pump may not be tight enough. Remove it and clean the clips.

In order for your equipment to work without interruption during the cold season, it is necessary to carry out routine maintenance before the start of the heating season.

1. Check if the pump is correctly connected to the heating pipe network... The pumping equipment must be installed in such a place of the irrigation network, where there is a minimum possibility of air congestion. It is rational to place it on the return line, in front of the heating boiler.
2. Before using make sure that all network connections remain tight... To prevent the gaskets from drying out, the inlet and outlet branch pipes are covered with a preservative lubricant during a break in operation.
3. Check the condition of the filter in front of the pump inlet... Replace or clean if necessary.
4. Check if the device is properly connected to the power supply... Not only the tightness of the contacts on the terminal box, the serviceability of the fuse, but also the correctness of the phase connection and the value of the operating voltage in the network are checked. It is best to check these characteristics with a tester.
5. Before starting to operate the heating circulation pump without fail do a test run, which must confirm the complete tightness of the system and the serviceability of all its components and equipment.

If, during the test run of the equipment, shortcomings of the pumping device are revealed that cannot be eliminated without dismantling and disassembling it, you will have to perform the following operations.

1. At the preparatory stage, the pumping equipment is de-energized. When installing the pump, a bypass is built into the pipeline system - a bypass heating pipe. It is closed during normal operation. For long-term repairs, it may be necessary to connect an additional pumping device to the system.
2. Unscrew the shut-off valves securing the pump, remove it.

Dismantling the pump before repair is especially necessary, your heating pipelines are made of metal-plastic. Over-the-air repairs can damage such pipes.

Pumping equipment diagram

With a serious repair of pumping equipment, it is necessary not only to dismantle it, but also to disassemble it. It is performed in the following sequence.

1. The circulating pump cover is fixed to the body with bolts. These can be Phillips or Allen screws. During operation, the bolts can "stick". This problem can be solved with the help of specialized aerosols, also called "liquid key". It is applied to the bolt and can be easily unscrewed after a few minutes.
2. Remove the cover. Before us is a rotor with a rotor fixed on it with a wheel with blades. Usually it is held on by clips or bolts. Remove it and you will get access to the "insides" of the pumping equipment.
3. Inspect the pump, identify the faulty unit and replace it.

It is necessary to carry out self-repair of circulation pumps only after the expiration of the warranty period or if it is impossible to obtain qualified technical assistance. A number of pump assemblies are quite difficult to find commercially. This is usually caused by the trade policy of the manufacturers, so be prepared for the fact that in some cases it is cheaper to purchase new equipment rather than fix broken ones.

Glandless pump design

To learn more about the technologies for repairing circulation pumps, watch the training video.

Circulation pumps of various types are often used today in country houses and summer cottages, which makes it possible to make the operation of autonomous heating systems more efficient and at the same time save on energy resources. Meanwhile, if such a hydraulic machine fails, the entire heating system ceases to function, which puts its user with a choice: use the services of qualified specialists or repair the heating circulation pump with his own hands.

Dismantling the circulation pump

The reasons for the breakdown of circulation pumps, the types of which differ from each other in certain design features, are associated both with non-compliance with the rules for operating such equipment, and with the quality of the coolant, drops in the power supply network, as well as with a number of other factors. Before deciding on an independent repair of the circulation pump, you should understand well the design and principle of operation of such a device, which will allow you to establish the exact cause of its failure and eliminate it.

Without knowing the design of the circulation pump, you will not only be able to repair such a hydraulic machine, if necessary, but also engage in regular maintenance. The design of circulation pumps is:

• a body made of stainless steel or non-ferrous alloys;
• an electric motor, the shaft of which is connected to the rotor;
• directly the rotor itself, on which the wheel with blades is installed - the impeller (its blades, which are constantly in contact with the pumped medium, can be made of metal or polymer materials).

Circulation pump design

The circulation pump operates, regardless of its design, according to the following principle.

• After the electric current is supplied, the shaft of the drive motor begins to rotate the rotor on which the impeller is installed.
• The heat-transfer fluid entering the inner part of the pump through the suction branch pipe is thrown by the impeller and centrifugal force to the walls of the working chamber.
• The liquid, which is subject to centrifugal force, is pushed into the discharge pipe.

As mentioned above, depending on the design features, the circulation pump for heating can be of different types. So, devices with a rotor are distinguished:

In private houses, the most commonly used circulation pumps are "wet" type

For circulation pumps of the first type, which are used mainly for equipping domestic heating systems, the rotor is constantly in a liquid medium. This not only contributes to the lubrication of the moving parts, but also to their efficient cooling. The main advantages of this type of equipment include:

• low noise level during operation, since the water, in which all the moving elements of such a device are located, perfectly absorbs vibrations;
• ease of installation (such pumps simply cut into the pipeline), maintenance and repair.

Meanwhile, pumps with a "wet" rotor, if we talk about their shortcomings, are not very efficient, can be installed only in a horizontal position and are very critical of the lack of liquid in the heating system.

Pumps with "dry" rotor are installed in separate boiler rooms and are used in systems that heat large areas

The drive motor of pumps with a "dry" rotor is placed in a separate unit. Rotation from the motor shaft is transmitted to the impeller by means of a special coupling. Unlike devices with a "wet" rotor, pumps of this type are characterized by a higher efficiency (up to 80%), but also by a more complex design, which somewhat complicates the procedures for their maintenance and repair. Circulation pumps with a "dry" rotor are cut into the pipeline and their body is fixed to the wall, for which a special console is used.

In order not to face situations in which the circulation pump installed in the heating system will require repair, it is necessary to strictly follow the rules for operating such equipment, which are as follows.

1. If there is no water in the pipeline, it is impossible to start the circulation pump.
2. The value of the generated water pressure must be within the characteristics specified in the technical passport of the circulation pump. If the device produces a reduced or, conversely, increased water pressure, this can lead to its rapid wear and, accordingly, failure.
3. During the period in which the heating system is not used, the pump must be turned on for circulation at least once a month for a quarter of an hour, which will prevent oxidation and blockage of its moving parts.
4. It is very important to ensure that the water temperature in the heating system does not exceed 65 °. In water heated to a higher temperature, a precipitate begins to actively form, which, interacting with the moving parts of the hydraulic machine, contributes to their active wear and, accordingly, the failure of the entire device.

It is necessary to inspect the circulation pump and check the correctness of its operation on a monthly basis. Such measures make it possible to identify malfunctions in the operation of equipment at the initial stage and promptly take appropriate measures.

Periodic inspection of the circulation pump will significantly reduce the likelihood of its failure during the heating season.

Checking the circulation pump for correct operation includes such actions as:

1. switching on the hydraulic machine to the operating mode and checking the level of noise and vibration generated by it;
2. checking the pressure (pressure level) of the coolant created in the discharge pipe (as mentioned above, the pressure of the liquid must be within the values ​​given in the technical data sheet);
3. control of the degree of heating of the engine, which should not be too high;
4. checking for the presence of grease on the threaded connecting elements of the pump and applying it if it is absent;
5. checking the presence and correctness of the grounding of the body of the hydraulic machine;
6. checking for leaks both on the pump casing and in the places where it is connected to the pipeline (if leaks are present in such places, it is necessary to tighten the threaded connections and check the integrity of the installed gaskets);
7. Inspection of the terminal box and check if the wire is fixed in it (in addition, it is necessary to check whether moisture gets into the terminal box, which is unacceptable).

The main reason for the rapid wear of friction bearings in pumps is considered to be the increased contamination of the coolant.

It is possible to single out several of the most typical malfunctions for circulation pumps, which are quite realistic to eliminate with your own hands. Such malfunctions can be identified by their characteristic signs, without even disassembling the pump and without using complex diagnostic equipment.

A situation where the pump is noisy but the impeller is stationary is often caused by oxidation of the drive motor shaft. This can happen due to the fact that the hydraulic machine has not been used for a long time. To repair the heating pump with your own hands with such a malfunction, you must perform the following steps:

• disconnect the power supply;
• drain all water from the pump and the adjacent pipeline;
• by unscrewing the corresponding screws, dismantle the drive motor together with the rotor;
• resting on the working notch of the rotor with a hand or a screwdriver, turn it by force, moving it off the dead center.

Disassembled circulation pump

The pump will make noise, but it will not work even if a foreign object gets into its inner part, which blocks the rotation of the impeller. To repair the circulation pump in such a situation, do the following:

• turn off the power supply;
• drain water from the pump and the adjacent pipeline;
• disassemble the pump according to the above scheme;
• remove a foreign object;
• a strainer is installed on the inlet pipe.

This is how the body of the circulation pump looks from the inside.

If the switched on circulation pump does not make noise, but also does not work, there may be problems with the power supply. To identify the cause and eliminate such a malfunction, disassembly of the circulation pump may not be required: using a tester, they check the level and presence of voltage at the terminals of the device. In many cases, to eliminate such a malfunction, it is enough to correctly connect the pump to the power supply.

If there is a fuse in the design of the circulating pump, then it could burn out during a voltage drop in the mains, which can also be the reason why the heating pump does not work and does not make noise when it is turned on. To restore pump operation, simply replace the blown fuse.

Armed with a tester and a schematic diagram, you can find more serious breakdowns in the electrical part of the pump, for example, burned out windings

In the event that a layer of lime deposits has formed on the inner surface of the stator, the running pump will periodically stop. To solve this problem, it is necessary to disassemble the pump and clean all its internal parts from lime deposits.

The reason for the loud noise of the equipment when pumping liquid can be the presence of a large amount of air in the pipeline. To eliminate such a problem, it is enough to bleed air from the pipes. In order not to face this in the future, you can install a special unit in the upper part of the heating system circuit, which will automatically release air from the pipeline.

If the body of the hydraulic machine vibrates strongly when pumping the coolant, this may indicate that the bearing that ensures the rotation of the impeller is badly worn out. Repair of a circulation pump for heating in this case consists in replacing a worn bearing.

End graphite bearing of the "Grundfos" pump

Among the reasons for the discrepancy between the fluid pressure and the standard values ​​at the outlet of the centrifugal pump are the following.

• The impeller is rotating in the wrong direction.
• The phase conductors in the terminal box are incorrectly connected (with three-phase connection).
• The viscosity of the heating medium used is too high.
• The filter installed on the suction line is clogged.

The specified issue is corrected according to the cause that caused the issue.

The causes of such a malfunction may be incorrect connection of the phase wires in the terminal box, bad or oxidized contacts in the safety assembly of the device.

To repair the electronic component of the pump, you will need basic knowledge of electrical engineering.

This is another nuisance that occurs quite often during the operation of such equipment. Why is the circulation pump heating up? The reasons may be different, but such a situation always indicates that your equipment is operating under increased load.

Thus, many situations in which the circulation pump does not work or does not work correctly can be dealt with on your own, without resorting to the services of qualified specialists and without purchasing expensive spare parts and components for repair.