DIY borehole pump repair

In detail: do-it-yourself borehole pump repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

In recent years, the number of wells in personal and summer cottages has increased tenfold. And the point is not only that the price of drilling work has significantly decreased and drawings of homemade drilling rigs have become available thanks to the Internet. Many are attracted by the fact that there will always be water in the house, regardless of malfunctions in the water supply networks, but it is worth remembering that from time to time you will have to repair borehole pumps, because the equipment resource is not infinite.

In the photo: regardless of the size of the equipment, the repair process is the same for all models

As you know, any breakdown is much easier to prevent than to eliminate. That is why the ideal option would be preventive examination and maintenance at least once a year, but it is better to do this twice - in spring and autumn.

This type of work is quite simple:

The pump must be removed from the well, even this work can be quite difficult, especially if the well is deep and the equipment is heavy. In this case, it is better to call an assistant.
After removing the unit, inspect the suspension cable and electrical cable. Next, you should check the body for damage, dirt and corrosion centers.
It is better to start the pump for a short while and listen - any extraneous sound will indicate a malfunction.

Periodic inspection and cleaning significantly reduces the chance of malfunctions. In addition, if sand and silt are present on the pump, this is direct evidence that it is necessary to shake the well, otherwise siltation will lead to pump breakdown, which is unlikely to be eliminated.

Video (click to play).

In order to better understand how to repair a borehole pump with your own hands, it is worth understanding the causes of certain malfunctions and understanding the most typical problems. Of course, anything can break during use, but there is a certain set of so-called "diseases" that appear most often.

Important! No matter how the seller convinces you that some pump is not worse than a model, the cost of which is 2 times higher, most often the more expensive models are much more reliable and durable.

Don't be scared by the complex schemes of the units, in practice everything is much simpler.

We note right away that most often the unit fails due to the owners' own negligence. Many of them, purchasing a pump, do not even read the instructions, which spell out the rules of use and basic safety measures.

Moreover, the vast majority of users run equipment down the well and do not get it out until it breaks, which could have been avoided by taking it out for inspection at least once a year.

But even with a responsible attitude, malfunctions can occur, consider the most common of them:

The equipment works "dry", this happens if the pump is suspended too high or in the process of water supply the level in the well drops very much. The mechanism must work with water - it serves as a coolant and lubricant, without it, overheating and jamming, and sometimes melting of plastic parts, occurs.
Using a pump that is too powerful, in this case the intake is too intense, and sand is sucked from the bottom, which can severely damage the main pumping part - the pump impeller.

Sand can destroy even a cast iron impeller

Power surges and surges can damage the capacitor and other electrical parts.Voltage stabilizers should be used.
And, finally, common wear and tear of units can be the cause of breakdowns.

The most common causes of malfunctions are:

Accumulator and check valve malfunctions - these units are not included in the system, but if they do not work correctly, the pump is not protected from pressure drops and, most likely, will receive a water hammer.
Erosion and damage to impellers, shafts and other moving parts.
Winding and capacitor faults.
Clogging of the system with sand and silt.

Here's what you can see by disassembling the pump, you must admit that it will not be able to work for a long time

If you do not have any abilities and have never seen even the simplest devices disassembled, it is worth contacting specialists. It is worth doing the same in the absence of at least a minimum set of plumbing tools. But, if you have at least basic knowledge and a set of wrenches and screwdrivers, you can try to do some work yourself.

The simplest diagram of the pump device

Here is the simplest guide for diagnosing and repairing a submersible pump:

Before starting any work, it is worth turning on the pump to the network and listening, if there are any sounds - clicks, buzzing, and so on, the work can be continued, but if there is complete silence, then, most likely, a magnet burned out, which cannot be repaired gives in. This equipment is recyclable.
Next, the lower part of the case is removed. In this type of pump, the motor is single-phase, it has two windings - starting and working. A capacitor is mounted in the starting circuit, the capacity of which can be up to 40 μF. But first of all, the shaft and blades or impellers are checked - everything should rotate freely and not be damaged.
A jammed shaft indicates a burned out stator winding. It is completely replaceable, although in some models this will not be possible and the pump will have to be thrown away. If everything rotates and is not damaged, the lower part is assembled back.

The stator is the outer, fixed part of the pump winding

Before disassembling the upper part, place the housing vertically and secure it, otherwise oil will leak out of the engine. Under the cover, you will see some wires and a capacitor.

Capacitor and wires are located under the pump top cover

First, using a tester or ohmmeter, the resistance of the starting and working windings is measured (usually the operating value is 15-20 ohms, the starting one is 30-40) - if the device shows infinity on any of them, then there is an open circuit in it. Low resistance values are evidence that the winding wires are short-circuiting each other.
And, finally, if all the data is normal, the capacitor is checked. If the reason is in it, then it should be replaced with a similar one.

In the overwhelming majority of cases, carrying out all of the above measures allows you to independently repair the equipment, avoiding significant expenses. As you can see, the work is quite simple, you do not need an electrical engineering education to carry it out - it is important to carry out all the work accurately and scrupulously.

Read also: DIY octavia a5 repair

If the device shows a small resistance, then we can talk about an inter-turn circuit. Conclusion from the above - on your own, if it happened, it is not possible to fix it. It is better in such cases to contact a specialist. Since in most cases, replacing parts will not help, but only replacing all successive parts will help. Especially if the pump winding has not been fixed.

When viewed further, we look at the pump further. The device shows that everything is in order, we proceed to inspect the starting capacitor. Most often, a breakdown occurs in it. In other words, there is a cliff in it. When the pump is operating, such a problem does not immediately catch the eye, but upon a detailed examination with such a device as an ohmmeter, the breakdown will come out.

At the same time, do-it-yourself repairs of the starting capacitor can be done independently, without resorting to the help of a master. But if this does not work out for you, then it is better to replace the starting condensate with a new one. Since starting condensate is a fatal breakdown.
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Without submersible pumps, not a single well will function properly. This very robust-looking device really is, and is distinguished by its reliability and duration of operation without emergencies.Connected submersible pump ready to be lowered into the wellFailure of submersible pumps is an extremely rare occurrence (of course - with proper operation). But if it happens, then timely repair of deep-well pumps is necessary in order to avoid additional, sometimes more serious, problems in the water supply system from the well. Fortunately, you can make such repairs yourself.Due to the fact that the pumping device constantly interacts with water, it is constantly influenced by various negative factors. Fortunately, such negative factors rarely lead to lightning-fast breakdowns, usually the pump's performance is disrupted gradually, gradually and noticeably for the exploiters.And this means that if small defects are found, it is not necessary to radically replace the deep-well pump, since you can do the repair yourself. By the way, replacing a submersible pump with minor breakdowns is practically never carried out at all. Submersible pumps are even easier to repair, including by hand, than submersible pumps.In the overwhelming majority of cases of breakdowns of deep-well pumps, it is the magnet of the pumping device that fails. Such a breakdown is most often observed in submersible pumps of the "Sprut" and "Aquarius" brands. Unfortunately, in this case, do-it-yourself repairs will not work, since the equipment for repairing the pump magnet is available only at specialized enterprises. In such a situation, the pump must immediately be taken for repair to specialists..Another thing is extraneous noise when the pumping device is running. Here we are already talking about a breakdown of a mechanical nature. In the overwhelming majority of cases, mechanical damage can be eliminated by hand.The first step in case of extraneous noise is to disassemble the pumping device for parts. In cases where noises are heard from pumps of the "Sprut" or "Aquarius" brand, it is necessary first of all to check the electrical system of the pump, which includes both the engine itself and the automation system.Subsurface pump with connected hosePumps of the brand "Sprut" and "Aquarius" have breakdowns most often in these systems, which, however, can be repaired quite simply with your own hands. Among other problems that often arise with pumps of the brand "Sprut" and "Aquarius" are breakdowns of the time relay and the protection system against short circuits or dry running.The reasons for such breakdowns can be the gradual blockages of the internal pumping system with foreign objects from the well soil. In addition, the operation of the pump in dry mode can also become a serious problem, since at such a "stroke" the oil quickly runs out, which leads to uneven and uneven operation of the internal mechanisms of the pump.In such a situation, over time, the parts undergo deformation, up to the impossibility of repairing in principle. That is why any pumping device, especially popular in the CIS brands "Aquarius" and "Sprut", must undergo constant diagnostics for internal problems, preferably by specialists.The rarest reasons for the failure of a pumping system are the following:

overheating of the working fluid when its temperature exceeds 40 degrees Celsius;

improper fastening of the submarine cable.

These problems are typical not only for pumps of the brands "Aquarius" and "Sprut", but in general for everyone, since the reasons that led to such problems are in no way connected with the quality of the pump, but directly depend on the professionalism of the pump installer.
to the menu ↑If you find that the device is not working properly, you should not immediately try to fix it, even if the reason is obvious. Initially, you need to check the device for the presence of either minor problems that are not so obvious at the first inspection, or for the presence of a major problem, when it is initially not clear at all why the device does not work.Submersible pump with accumulated deposits on the casingOn the submersible pumps of the brands "Sprut" and "Aquarius", as, indeed, on any others, the first thing we do is to check whether there was a banal overload, due to which the automatic device and the entire pumping system as a whole could turn off.

disassemble the junction box;

make a visual inspection of the inside - a burnt-out part will be immediately noticeable (a burning smell can also be felt).

If the cause of the breakdown is not clear, then you need to remove the impeller from the pump motor and check whether the motor itself rotates directly in a free state or not.It is important to know that most modern pumping devices are manufactured in single phase. A so-called "smoothing capacitor" is connected to them, thanks to which the engine starts up more smoothly and smoothly. There is a special winding around it.In such pumps, the engine most often burns out. Actually for this reason, it is necessary to remove the impeller. And after removing the impeller, you must try to scroll the shaft manually.Thanks to the pre-vacated space, due to the removal of the impeller, this is not difficult to do.But if the shaft is not spinning, then you need to think about mechanical failure. To be more precise, you should think about engine jamming.

This can happen for the reason that small or, in other cases, large particles of soil constantly get into the engine.This only happens if the engine does not have an additional protective filter. Actually, these particles can be the cause of such problems. It is noteworthy that if they are not promptly removed from the motor of the pumping device, then this will gradually lead to the fact that the entire stator winding will completely burn out. She, obviously, cannot be repaired, only replaced. However, if the shaft has no problems with rotation, then the lower part of the motor can be assembled.
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Calculation of the borehole pump

Calculate the rate at which the pump will operate based on the volume of water you are using.
No need to chase after the cheapness of the model when buying. Read the specifications and reviews carefully. The pump is a long-term investment, as it is designed for long-term operation. It should be remembered that dismantling and repair / replacement of the pump are very costly procedures.
When examining the technical characteristics of the pump, pay particular attention to the following: whether the model has dry running and overload protection. It is also desirable that all its parts are made of stainless steel, this will significantly increase the life of the product. In addition, pay attention to the electrical requirements and see if you can meet them.

It is advisable to repair only minor, obvious breakdowns on your own. If the problems are more serious, you should not do this, because instead of correcting the emergency situation that has arisen, it can only be aggravated by ruining the entire well water supply system, the restoration of which will cost you a pretty penny.
However, if you are convinced that you are able to cope with the task on your own, nothing will prevent you from realizing it. First you need to get the pump and after that decide how to disassemble the borehole pump, let's start over.
To remove the pump, you need to do the following:

Disconnect the pump from power.
Carry out all preparatory measures: unscrew or loosen all necessary connections.
Having previously acquired assistants, carry out a smooth pulling of the pump. It is important not to jerk or interrupt the process until the pump has been removed.

Now you can assess the condition of the unit and, depending on the conclusions made, either make repairs or replace the failed pump entirely with a similar one.
After the completion of these activities, a working device is installed. It is carried out in the reverse order.
At the end of the process, you should carry out a test start of the pump by connecting it to the electrical network. If the tests are successful, you can start daily operation.
Remember, the dry-running protection of a downhole pump must be constantly monitored, as a result of which this equipment breaks down most often. Look at the photo and article before renovation. Study it carefully and only then can you get to work.

Since submersible pumping equipment is used in many summer cottages and in country houses to solve various water supply problems, it is useful to be able to do a simple submersible pump repair for every owner of such equipment. This is especially true of mechanical breakdowns, which can be dealt with with your own hands if you know the cause of the breakdown and how to fix it. In our article, we will tell you how to repair deep well pumps yourself, describe the most common breakdowns and how to fix them. At the same time, we will describe the sequence of repairs and frequent malfunctions for the most common models of pumping equipment of the "Vodomot" and "Whirlwind" units. The video at the end of the article will help you understand the intricacies of repairing submersible pumps.

Pumps of the brand "Vodomet" and "Whirlwind" are in great demand due to the simplicity of the design and simple repair of the downhole unit. The heart of any submersible pumping product is a compact cylindrical body. It is in this case that the engine with the impeller is put on its shaft. In this case, the impeller is separated from the engine compartment by means of a special insert. The shaft passes through it.

Before proceeding with the repair of borehole pumps, it is necessary to assess the serviceability of its main units. To do this, do the following:

First, check the piston for damage and deformation. It should be straight and even.
The permeability of the suction port is then assessed. It is considered serviceable if air, penetrating from the side of the suction pipe, passes freely from both sides.
It is also worth measuring the distance between the piston and the coil magnets with your own hands. Normally, it should be in the range of 0.4-0.5 cm. If this value is greater, then the coils in the device may beat. If the clearance is reduced, the engine may overheat.
In addition, in "Vodojet" units and other similar models, it is necessary to measure the distance from the valve that closes the inlet to the device body. Normally, it should be from 0.7 to 0.8 cm. This will allow the liquid to flow freely from the unit in the absence of pressure.
You also need to make sure that malfunctions in the operation of the downhole unit are not caused by critical voltage surges. Therefore, using a special device, you need to measure the voltage in the network. It should be in the range of 200-240 V.

Since there are models of pumping equipment from different manufacturers on sale that differ in strength and design features, the repair and operation of such devices should be carried out taking into account the model. Since as a downhole unit you could have chosen not "Water cannon" or "Whirlwind", but a model of another brand, we decided to list the weaknesses of the most common pumping products, as well as the features of their repair:

Most Grundfos models have special thermal insulation for the engine and built-in valves. Therefore, sometimes it is necessary to change the thermal insulation seals of the motor. This work can only be done by a professional.
Jileks brand pumps often encounter fluid leakage from the electric motor. For repair it is necessary to replace the fluid with a similar product.This can be done only in a special service center.
The most popular is the domestic pump "Malysh". Although the price of service repair is quite acceptable, it is not difficult to repair this device with your own hands. A common problem is that the unit makes a lot of noise after turning on, but does not pump water. This usually happens due to a rupture of the central axis on which the membrane and anchor are installed. Usually, disassembling the unit will quickly identify the problem. The axle needs to be replaced. You can find out more about the repair of the Malysh pump from the proposed video:

The downhole pump "Vodoley" quite often overheats during operation. This is especially true for units installed in shallow wells. However, since the repair of such equipment can be about half of its cost, then if an inexpensive pump breaks down, it is easier to buy a new device.

Pumps "Vodojet" and "Whirlwind" are a fairly reliable technique that, if used correctly, can serve for a long time without breakdowns. If not properly operated, the units can become clogged with silt and sand. For repairs, you will need to change the pumping part.

Pumping equipment "Rucheyok" is also famous for its ability to overheat. And this despite the design in compliance with European standards. According to the manufacturer's instructions, the device can work without stopping for 7 hours, but in practice this will cause overheating. Therefore, it is recommended to give the pump a break after 2-3 hours of operation.

As for Vodomet pumps or units of other brands, often the reasons for breakdowns can be:

silting of the impeller;
break in the supply cable;
failure of the rotor or stator.

To diagnose the problem with your own hands, you should adhere to the following rules:

To begin with, the unit must be removed from the well and performed for a test run. If the shaft rotates, the problem is with the impeller. It must be cleaned of silt and the unit can be assembled and operated further.
If the "Water cannon" pump does not even turn on during the test run, then first you need to check the power cable with a tester. To do this, check the voltage at the terminals of the engine compartment. If it is, then the cable is intact. Otherwise, you will have to replace it with a new cable.
If, when diagnosing a borehole pump, it turns out that everything is in order with the cable, then the cause of the malfunction lies in the electric motor. In this case, the product will have to be disassembled all the way to the engine compartment, remove the stator or rotor and rewind the winding.

To repair any pumping equipment with your own hands, you need to learn how to disassemble it. We will consider how to do this using the example of the "Water cannon" pump. Disassembly is performed in the following sequence:

Unscrew the perforated cylinder at the inlet pipe. This is a coarse filter that protects the product from sand and silting.
Next, all the washers, discs and "glasses" are dismantled from the shaft on the engine of the pump unit with their own hands. To make it easier for you to put the removed products back in the desired order, lay them side by side in the order in which you remove them.

It is important to know: the impeller consists of 16 removable parts, not counting the same anti-friction washers. Therefore, it is very important to follow the sequence of removal and refitting of all elements.

After that, it is necessary to dismantle the engine retaining ring from the "Vodojet" borehole pump. This part covers the engine compartment cover. To do this, you need to use a mallet. With the blow of this tool, we move the engine down, after that we pull the cord and return it back. After such manipulations, the O-ring will move. After that, the retaining ring is shifted towards the body with a screwdriver. As a result, the stopper will skew and it will be easy to remove it.
Next, we disconnect the wiring, open the engine compartment cover.After that, using a mallet and a screwdriver, you can remove the motor from the case.

As a result of such disassembly, the impeller and all its constituent elements can be easily washed and cleaned. The engine can be taken for diagnosis and repair to a specialized workshop. After cleaning and repairing, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

Most pumping products from different brands often face the same problems. We will list the most common ones and indicate what needs to be done to troubleshoot the problem:

Video instruction for the repair of the Vortex borehole pump:

Video (click to play).