Details: DIY table hockey repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
It is important for any player that table hockey is smooth, the puck glides well on the ice, and nothing gets stuck anywhere. To do this, after buying the coveted Stig box in the store, you need to improve your hockey a little.
Firstly, for professional tournaments, the plastic Stiga hockey bottom under the goal is removed and a special puck bag is attached. According to international rules, goals are counted if the puck remains in the goal area. Thus, we reduce the number of “flying washers” and avoid unnecessary disputes.
Secondly, the Stig board game must be lubricated with special silicone grease for a longer service life. But this must be done carefully, following the recommendations of experienced players, which we publish in this section:
This is not to say that table hockey is an extremely fragile thing. The Swedish company Stiga carefully monitors the quality of its products. However, breakdowns do occur periodically. For professional players, any defect in the court or miniature, even a minor one, is very important.
The long-term practice of operating sites allows us to identify a number of typical malfunctions. Of course, in some cases the hockey “box” is already difficult to repair and it is easier to buy a new table hockey. But you should not despair ahead of time, there are very few such hopeless cases. This section contains articles by leading table hockey experts who will help you repair the Stiga board game on your own:
If you have any ideas, please post them. Or write if you know where you can buy players.
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Video (click to play). |
Specifically, the player's club was broken. (not one already)
Nice toy. When I was a student, the guys and I bought five of these games at once. They were then at a bargain price. In the era of hyperinflation, there were such imbalances in prices that you could buy a good thing for a penny. And we held championships 🙂 So we didn't have a problem with the players. If something broke, then one set of the game went for disassembly as a donor of spare parts.
If the players are metal (made of tin), then they can be cut from tin of a suitable thickness. At one time I cut out of cans. But tin tin is a little soft. In the heat of the game, they buckle.
If the players are plastic, then I have no other ideas except how to glue the stick with glue. All this will look, of course, not very aesthetically pleasing, then you can play.
I don’t know where you can buy them. I have never seen them for sale.
literally a couple of days later, the first problems began to appear
At the bottom, the hockey players were fastened and controlled like this
and a long piece of iron popping out of the mount. but it was "zakolkhoz" like this and the problem was solved, it didn't pop up anymore
And then a new bullshit happened
this thing broke
Glue sucks or glue is fig. But I also think glue is not a solution. If hockey is not even a month old, then I think this problem will arise more than once. There is no zch for them, but I don’t want to buy another such hockey for spare parts for 300 UAH and I’ll leave this option to the last one. Therefore, I would like to fix this for a long time.
Papik suggests this broken plasmask, replace it with an iron one, but the question is in the gear where to get such
What other advice will there be, options for resolving the issue
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Єdina Kraina
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Increasingly, after a conversation with a person, you want to friendly shake the dog's paw, smile at the monkey, bow to the elephant.
Offtopic:
1. Have you tried heating both plastics with their subsequent gluing?
2.Drill the gear with a small drill. diameter. Drill and thread the piece of iron too. Fasten the gear to the piece of iron with a bolt.
3. All do not care, because now the gear teeth will break. We must look for the same, but either ours or iron. And somewhere I saw this. 
Where did you buy it and how much does it cost?
I'm also looking closely - it's true to myself. Take a picnic, for example.
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One Country
Bonding by melting the plastic won't help.
Will break immediately in the same place.
And it's useless to glue.
The only normal glue for such a case is the one
what dissolves the plastic,
but in my hockey she did not dissolve.
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Binge drinking at home from the customer's material.
Well well. Interestingly, it is somewhat different from the one in Sportmaster for 890 UAH. The construct is very similar, but what about the execution?
Well well. Interestingly, it is somewhat different from the one in Sportmaster for 890 UAH. The construct is very similar, but what about the execution?
It is very different if the sportsmaster is stigovskiy. It's not about saving, but about discarded UAH 320.
Those. world table hockey championships are held on their table hockey. You can only break it foolishly, when there is a lot of strength and little else. 
Hello friends! A workmate bought this LASAPED: And before that, this Bluet.
There are non-native window lifters in the car. Initially, the buttons were mounted “in torpedoes.
Good day, dear users of Hercules and not only! ⠀ On July 12, we held a webinar, Ph.
I remember that in my distant childhood I was like that - there, springs rotation at an angle of 90 ° was transmitted
Straight balm to the soul. I remember how they dragged home puffing the one with the red-nosed players like from a cartoon
Varieties of modern realities (different types of gears) have been seen.
The author of the topic, what if you make a creative version?
Well, for example, one of:
NOTES OF MECHANICAL ENGINEER ALEXEY KRINOV.
DO THE GEARS SPIN AND THE RODS FLY OUT?
FOUND A SOLUTION TO THE PROBLEM OF SEASON 16-17.
Stiga "loves" its customers very much and does not let them get bored!
Last season there was a twisting of the rubber bands (and sometimes at the very first tournament) and deformation of the clearings. As soon as we learned how to deal with this, the restless manufacturers of our favorite game threw in new problems.
The first is the "biting" of mechanisms.
The reasons for this have been identified, but a complete correction of the defect, except for the replacement of the mechanism, has not yet been achieved. Attempts continue.
The second is "pulling out" the poles from the gears.
The reasons are banal (my opinion). This is the desire of the manufacturer to reduce the cost of the product by using cheaper (and, as a consequence, lower quality) plastics. Plus the natural wear of the tool (knurling).
The decision suggested itself - to order the production of new gears from high-quality plastic. But we were either "charged" with making a very large batch (and, accordingly, asked for a lot of money), or they did not guarantee the quality of the helical gear.
There was also an option to make a device to increase the height of the corrugation. This is doable for us, but it did not solve the problem in the regions.
Brainstorming one of the laboratory employees came up with an idea that was brilliant in terms of simplicity of implementation - use a gear pin from the old mechanism as a blank. Measurements were immediately carried out, the necessary tools were prepared and the idea was brought to life. The result exceeded expectations.
The connection between the pole and the gear turned out to be so tight that the likelihood of a repeated pulling out approached almost zero.
We are not greedy and we spread the technical process for general study and implementation.
You will need:
- unnecessary mechanism (in order of preference - goalkeeper, right back, left winger, right winger, left back, center)
- drill Ø 3.8 mm
- screwdriver or drill
- nippers (side cutters)
- pliers
- hacksaw blade
- file
- stiff bristled brush
- Fairy (detergent)
- hammer
- more or less straight arms
Step # 1. We take the mechanism.
We bite off the shank of the pin.
We put the gear with the remnants of the pin, the rest - in the trash.
Step # 2. We clamp the gear (for the rest of the pin (.), Otherwise you will break the teeth) with pliers, aim and drill (f 3.8 mm) at minimum speed to a depth of 10 ... 11 mm. We monitor the alignment. If you still did not keep track of, do not worry too much - the crooked mechanism will still work.
Step # 3. Holding the gear by the pin with pliers, saw off and discard the unnecessary.
Step # 4. Finishing the cutting surface with a needle file.
Step # 5. Using a Fairy brush, thoroughly clean the gear from old grease and other dirt. Dry.
Step 6. We assemble the mechanism and press the pole into the gear. We draw your attention to the fact that the usual tapping of the mechanism on the table does not work in this case. Use of a hammer or other heavy object is required. When pressing in, it is necessary to support the mechanism on a flat surface and avoid bending the rail. It is very important to check the insertion depth according to the characteristic change in the impact sound and visually (the corrugation must completely go into the gear).
With the exact implementation of the technical process, you will have a more reliable mechanism in your hands than the factory one.
Confirmed by carrying out repairs at MLNH and MO2017. Repeated pulling out of the poles was not revealed.
With a systematic approach, the total time to manufacture a gear
2 minutes. We recommend that you "destroy" all unnecessary mechanisms and always have a stock for replacement.
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- ArTTTEm
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It has been broken since last year, almost all of the pins have broken. 
Maybe someone has the same, do not share the pins?)))
Or how can they be replaced? Where are they sold?
It's a pity to throw it away, I want to play
P.s. I asked Santa Claus for a new Stiga Stanley Cup for the new year
- Vovikvs
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3D printing is not an option? it won't be expensive
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oh tyzh damn. how many evenings after him. ))) in 20-30 years the rarity will be!
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I have almost the same one, only the pins are metal, and the quality itself is better. 
Based on the post
As it turned out empirically, cardboard hockey is complete crap: it does not live long, it staggers and looks dumb. So put it in the furnace.
We decided to make a new one from plywood and plastic.
For manufacturing you will need:
plywood 6mm for boxes and bits
plastic 2mm for the field
self-tapping screws
rivets
good mood.
Here are the approximate dimensions of the box
The whole thing is cut out, painted, assembled on screws and snot.
Bits cut holes for magnets
The gates were first made of plastic, but they quickly sag, so they were made of tin and riveted to the plastic.
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The Hockey game broke down - 2-3 plastic gears, responsible for transferring rotation from the handle to the hockey player, broke. There is no time to search for the same or to invent something, and besides, no one is playing it. If anyone needs it, I will give it for free in Rostov-on-Don.
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In order for hockey to work perfectly, you need to find a few of these.
Post edited Engineer Nestor: Feb 21 2015, 11:16
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Hockey available. the transfer will not work, it is dimensional. If necessary, I can send hockey players or spare parts. Only while I'm not going to derban, I will wait 2 weeks, maybe someone who wants to take it away may appear. Throwing away the rest of the hand does not rise.
Post edited Engineer Nestor: Feb 21 2015, 11:15
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Everything, hockey is in good hands. Topic in the archive.
Post edited Engineer Nestor: Mar 3 2015, 22:51
I took the kids about three months ago to a movie theater, where they played AeroHockey, and since then the thought of how to build this thing at home has not left me.
The device itself is simple - a box, from the top of the hole, from the bottom there is a fan, the fan pumps air into the box, it comes out through the holes and lifts the washer.
To begin with, I decided to do something simple - I took a box from under women's boots, poked holes in the lid with an awl every two centimeters (I pierced it from the inside out so that the edges of the lid were bumpers) I tied the lid to the box with tape, I also glued all the seams in the box scotch tape, made a hole on the side, inserted a hairdryer
MiniDVD disc used as washer
(Thanks to my wife, without her boots and a hair dryer, nothing would have happened =))
Inspired by a successful trinket, I decided to make the unit bigger.
Initially, I wanted to make it foldable, because where to store such a hump, and it's easier to do, so the size was chosen 80x80cm. those. when unfolded, it should have turned out 80x160 cm. IMHO this size is quite enough.
I cut out two pieces of 80x80 fiberboard, onto one of them (which became the lower one) I nailed 25x25mm bars along the edges, I missed all the cracks with silicone sealant.
Preparation of the working surface of the table
This is a separate song and not quite simple:
1. Draw a grid every 2 cm.
2. Drilled holes in the mesh nodes - drill 2mm. A simple calculation shows that you need to make 39 * 39 = 1521 holes. it takes quite a lot of time and patience, it took me 3 hours. It is best to take the lightest drill, and even better, a mini-drill or Dremel
When I drilled the lid was nailed to the base of the box, it was error since in fact, it hung and as a result, large potholes / burrs appeared on the back side
Therefore, if someone decides to repeat it, it is better to drill not by weight.
3. Rather large burrs have formed around the holes (perhaps the material was not chosen well, I think there would be fewer problems with MDF) - to remove them, sanded both surfaces
4. After sanding, the holes were clogged by themselves, so I decided to do this:
I put varnish on every hole
I highly recommend that if someone decides to repeat this process - immediately after instillation, cover the entire work surface with varnish (I did not do this for which I paid p. 6)
5. When the varnish dried up (two days later) drilled all the holes again, the process proceeded much faster than in step 3 and took two hours. As a result, the holes turned out to be neat and without any rags around the edges.
6. Since the varnish drops, although not very much, nevertheless rose above the surface of the table, I had to sand it again, and to bring the table to condition I had to cover it with aerosol enamel paint (therefore, on the video, the table may seem metal - in the store the paint turned out to be only silver)
This point could have been avoided if see point 4
Fan - how much in this sound.
I tried quite a few of them, at first I did not want to describe. but then I changed my mind so as not to repeat my mistakes + some thoughts on this matter and so:
First I tried a hairdryer (not that I was counting on it, it was just at hand) - the power is clearly not enough
Thought: you can try a building hair dryer (it has much more power) - but I don’t have it, so I didn’t try it.
Initially, I intended to use a vacuum cleaner for these purposes, I think it would have enough power with a margin, but there are too many drawbacks: firstly, there are practically no vacuum cleaners on sale with a blowing function (and I don’t have such a vacuum cleaner either, but if you really want to figure out how to wriggle out here), secondly they make noise and thirdly they consume energy - I haven't tried it. other options appeared
Another thought about a vacuum cleaner - you can use a motor for a vacuum cleaner on the extreme, in some repair shops it can be purchased separately. so it will probably be cheaper.
An ordinary household fan (with which we save ourselves in the heat, if there is no air conditioner) - I tried a diameter of 50 cm.power of 60 W - for some reason it did not work, I think because of the large diameter (as a result, I ditched the fan and made a huge hole in the bottom of the unit, which I then had to close up ).
Fans for the computer system unit - I tried it. 12 cm 12 V 0.2 A was available, his power is, let's say, a ridiculous 2 W (and how such a system unit is cooled) - in general, he is too weak.
In a specialized store for radio amateurs (Khabarovsk "TV Service") I found fans:
120x25 mm 220 V 18 W - (I don’t remember the encoding because I handed it back to the store) - does not pull, I think the thickness of the fan also matters
120x38 mm 220 V 20 W (JA1238H2S0N) - that's how it works in our video
Thought: I saw fans for ventilation in a hardware store (they are inserted into the place of the ventilation grill in the apartment), their parameters are approximately the same: diameter 100 mm 220 V 14 W - I think if you put several of them, it will pull.
It remains to finish the sides - so that there are no gaps between the table and the board, otherwise the disc gets stuck there, well, come up with bits (you probably think - well, I would spread it when everything was ready, but I feel some fading interest in the project, later I'm afraid later I don't want to write an article) and I almost forgot - the second half of the table needs to be done =)
A large white circle around the fan is the result of an unsuccessful attempt to use a household fan, in addition, the hole for the fan made a little more than necessary - so I had to fill up the slots with plasticine on the sides
Summary
Material: fiberboard,
Size: 80x80x3 cm,
mesh: 2x2 cm,
hole diameter: 2 mm,
Fan: 120x38 mm 220V 20 W,
Distance between sides: 25 mm (bar thickness)
Test result
The washer hovers above the table, the air flow is evenly distributed - no differences were noticed either in the center or in the corners
useful links (not that they helped a lot, they just exist and I read them):
DIY Air Hockey Table - English, registration required
Air Hockey at your home DIY or Do It Yourself - Habrahabr, translation of the first + comments
To be honest, I didn’t like the article or the translation.
in particular, phrases that raise questions:
“There are 8 different pieces to be sawed with 45 degree cuts at the ends” - not 45 degrees, which is not?
“Drill the holes according to the mesh you just created. Use drills with a diameter of 1 mm (or 1/32 inch) "- IMHO 1mm is not enough, and even those who have holes in the movie that are clearly larger than 1 mm
“You need about 150-200 wooden posts with a height of 35mm "- if you are going to run on it, then it is possible and necessary, but if you do not have to play IMHO, well, except that if the table is very large and then one column of 50 cm should be enough
Supplement to the magazine "Yunny Technician No. 11 for 1976
There is little useful here, but from a historical point of view it is interesting, the material and technical base has since changed fundamentally
I wish you good luck, patience and you will succeed!
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blunt clip like the author himself
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|
Video (click to play). |
There is a mat, I can already see children with broken fucking fill in the reaction, I got pussies from their parents for obscene songs😀
