DIY table lamp repair

In detail: DIY repair of a table lamp from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

It is not uncommon to change an energy-saving or ordinary incandescent light bulb in a lamp (chandelier), but a new one does not burn! Immediately you need to ring it or check it in a lamp that is well known to work. If it does not burn even there, it is necessary to repair the cartridge or, less often, to check the integrity and connection of wires or cables in the lamp or wiring!

Remember a lamp, especially an incandescent lamp, heats up to high temperatures! To avoid burns, always wait until it cools down! You should never screw in lamps with a power more than indicated in the passport to the lamp or on its holder - this threatens it with breakage and even fire!

The repair of LED and fluorescent fixtures has its own characteristics, so we recommend that you read our corresponding instructions dedicated to this.

Knocks out a machine gun lighting protection:
- It rarely happens that the machine itself breaks down, then it is necessary to replace it.
- Sometimes the cause can be a short circuit (SC) in the electrical wiring of the apartment or inside the luminaire itself. Ring all the wires to the contacts of the cartridge in order to find and eliminate the cause of the short circuit. If you find a short circuit near the cartridge or in any other place between the wires, you must remove the damaged area and cut and connect the wires in a new way.
- Quite rarely, when the lamp is twisted, a short circuit occurs between the contacts in the cartridge. Check and fold back the contacts.
- And it happens and vice versa wire breaks near the terminal block or socket through which the lamp is connected to the home electrical network. Check and restore.
- If the electrical circuit and lamps are OK- check that the contacts in the socket touch the lamp... In case of breakage or burning of one or both contacts, the cartridge must be replaced, if intact, just bend them with a screwdriver.
- Crackling is heard and the lamp flashes (very harmful for energy-saving lamps) - this indicates poor contact and arcing in the socket. It is necessary to disconnect the wires and disassemble the socket, clean the terminals with bolts and contacts that touch the lamp, and in case of severe wear, replace. We put the cartridge back and connect the wires. If the cartridge has become fragile and crumbles, then it is definitely necessary to change it to a new one. Sometimes it is often enough to bend up the center contact.
- The incandescent light bulb does not turn out of the socket. Reason: the base is rusted or the central contact is stuck to it. We take thicker gloves or a rag and try to twist it! Often, at the same time, the bulb of the lamp bursts or flies off, and its base remains in the cartridge, which can be easily turned out, holding the cartridge, by the edge with pliers counterclockwise. If you fail, disassemble the cartridge as described in the first paragraph.
- Sometimes the switch is to blame, not the lamp.Instructions for its repair.

Video (click to play).

When repairing a table lamp, we check the integrity of the electrical circuit and the contacts of the cartridge - everything is as described above, but there are our own peculiarities:

If the lamp blinks or goes out altogether with any vibration or movement, this indicates a broken cord. It is only possible to find the place of damage by visual inspection and palpation along the entire length. Pay particular attention to the places where the flexible cable enters the luminaire and near the plug. If you do not find it, buy a new flexible multicore cable of the PVA brand, but remember that it is necessary to replace the flexible power cord of any electrical appliance with a new one with the same or larger conductor cross-section.Failure to comply with this rule can lead to heating of the cord and in some cases, even its fire.
The lamp may not turn on due to breakage of the switch push-button or keyboard design. Check its performance by ringing the contacts after disassembly or, without disassembling, ring through the wires connected to it. The switches can be built into both the electrical cable and the luminaire body. If found, as a rule, it is not possible to either disassemble it or repair the damage, therefore I recommend replacing the switch with a new one.
Very rare malfunction in the plug from the lamp or electrical outlet... Check and re-establish contact.

Personally, I check the table lamp as follows- I plug it into an outlet, then a switch, and carefully measure the presence of a voltage of 220 Volts on the contacts of the cartridge with a multimeter. Just be careful not to short-circuit.

Note: low and constant voltage can be applied to energy-saving lamps - take this into account when checking.

Various devices are used to illuminate the premises, including table-type fluorescent lamps. They perfectly maintain the required level of lighting and are an integral part of many modern interiors.

Thanks to original design solutions, table lamps combine practicality and functionality. The use of these devices provides additional comfort and reduces eye strain. However, sometimes there are situations when a fluorescent table lamp needs to be repaired. If you have certain electrical skills, it is quite possible to carry out repair work yourself.

Every luminaire that uses fluorescent light bulbs is made up of several basic elements that are linked together. Therefore, failure of any of them can cause malfunction of the entire device. Therefore, before starting the repair, you need to identify the faulty item. In this case, the luminaire must be de-energized. Until then, it is forbidden to touch any components.

In a de-energized device, you need to check for the presence of capacitors and resistors connected to them. After the voltage is disconnected, the resistors ensure the discharge of the capacitors. The absence of current is checked with a voltmeter, after which you can start repairing the lamp. It should be remembered that a capacitor without a resistor is discharged using a screwdriver with an insulated handle. After that, a parallel connection of a resistor with a minimum power of 0.5 W and a resistance of 1 MΩ is made.

If, when the lamp is turned on, the machine is triggered and all the wiring is de-energized, then it is likely that the reason for this lies in the breakdown of the capacitor. In this case, you need to replace it with a similar element with the appropriate performance characteristics. As a rule, during the repair process, the installed capacitors are checked. To do this, the wires are alternately disconnected along with the discharge resistor, after which an ohmmeter is connected. There is a deflection of the instrument arrow with its subsequent return to its original position. After testing, all connections should be restored.

In the event that the lamp cannot turn on, this may be due to wear on the starter. Sometimes this malfunction is associated with an open throttle. To identify it, the starter, choke and lamp are checked in turn. The defective part must be replaced.

Some models of luminaires provide for the use of two series-connected lamps, closing to a common choke. Each of them uses its own starter. Normal operation of these devices is possible only if both lamps and starters are in good working order.

Blinking of the lamp indicates possible wear of it or the starter.To determine the faulty element, a check must be carried out using a normal light bulb and a working starter. Each turn-on is completed by de-energizing the luminaire and discharging the capacitors. In the newest models, the operation of the lamp is provided by an electronic converter instead of a starter and a choke. Usually, it is completely replaced, and the defective converter is given for repair to qualified specialists.

Often a situation arises when the daylight lamp lights up almost instantly, but after a certain time, darkening begins to appear at its outputs. Usually this malfunction cannot always be noticed in a timely manner. However, this indicates an imminent lamp failure.

One of the main causes is most often associated with a malfunction of the throttle. Starting and operating current reaches a value exceeding the current-voltage characteristic. When checking the values of these currents, faulty cathodes can be found.

Abnormal operation of the choke is evidenced by the presence of the so-called fire snake formed inside the lamp. When the lamp is on, the space between the electrodes is no longer filled with an electric discharge. A significant increase in current occurs, which leads to uneven discharge. In this case, it is also necessary to check the starting and operating current and compare the obtained data with the current-voltage characteristic. Based on the results of the inspection, repairing a fluorescent table lamp may require replacing the choke.

If the current does not exceed the permissible value, then the choke is in good order, and replacement is required for the cathodes or the lamp itself. You can check the health of the lamp by repeatedly turning the light on and off. Then it needs to be turned 120 degrees and re-lit and extinguished the light several times. If the light does not light up, then it is completely defective.

Any equipment sooner or later becomes out of order, including a table lamp. In such a situation, they seek help from specialists or solve the problem on their own. Do-it-yourself table lamp repair is a doable task with minimal knowledge of electrical engineering.

According to the technical regulations, the use of a 220 V table lamp with a direct connection to the outlet is not allowed. That is, you cannot connect directly, only through the switch.

To determine the cause of the breakdown, we use a tester. You will need to check the integrity of the wiring. We remove the plug from the socket, turn off the lamp and test the resistance level. Only an incandescent lamp is suitable. We do not use halogen or LED bulbs, as they break.

If the check fails, call the cartridge. The metal thread is insulated. We test it for a short circuit with a terminal or case. If such a problem is found, we change the cartridge.

straight central;
lateral in the form of a crescent.

One of the petals should ring directly with the fork. After opening the switch, we test the cord for integrity. We touch one tester probe to the terminal, with the second we check the plug pins. In a normal situation, one core is called, and the second is opened by a switch. We check it by putting the button in the position of the light on. If, with this approach, both cores are called, the table lamp is working. However, more often than not, you need to continue looking for the problem and disassemble the switch.

After disassembly, it can be seen that one of the cores is through (bypass). We begin to ring the second on both sides (plug and cartridge). In Chinese-made luminaires, the switch is usually faulty. Its bottom is shown in the photo below. It is removable, so for reliability after repair it is fixed with glue. The top key is fixed on a plastic shaft and can be easily removed. Although this is not recommended due to the fragility of the material.

The switch design is straightforward:

The key, which has a small shaft, is in contact with the spring pusher.
There is a slider at the base. It performs the closing and opening of contacts.

In this case, the problem most often arises with the assembly, since many home craftsmen follow the path of removing the key and installing and pressing the slider on top. This approach is not correct. The key does not fit well into the lamp base. Therefore, it is easier to use a base.

A common problem is plug breakage. This usually happens as a result of rough handling.

The photo above shows the plug. Pay attention to the insulating layer. It ensures maximum adhesion of the conductor to the body. For reliability, the structure is treated with glue.

A crushed cartridge or part with corroded contacts cannot be repaired. The only option is replacement.

The photo above shows several types of cartridges:

White ceramic chuck, flat-mounted. By design, it is an integral part of a table lamp. Note the well-insulated knot. Such a cartridge costs about 40 rubles.
Black lampholders fit tilt-type luminaires. Due to the lack of good insulation, it is not recommended to install them in the bathroom.

In some cases, in order to repair the lamp, it is enough to clean the contacts of the socket. Do this with a fine-grained skin. The stripping process reduces contact resistance, which helps to simplify ignition.

Note! Halogen bulbs flicker several times before they light up. This sign does not indicate a malfunction of the lamp. This is a feature of switching on gas-discharge lamps.

Some practical tips for lamp repair:

Do not put pressure on the light bulb when screwing it into the socket. The base is made of ductile metal that deforms under pressure. However, halogen bulbs have circular contacts and are difficult to damage.
Halogen lamps turn endlessly. From a certain moment, during rotation, the glass begins to scroll relative to the base. The problem is contacts. The new lamps have a shorter thread and do not reach the bottom.
If the switch is in the off position, the phase should not be directed to the contacts of the cartridge. If this is not the case, you need to turn off the circuit breaker in the electrical panel (in the entrance).

To create contact between the lamp and the base, do the following:

The center contact is turned upward with a screwdriver. The contact pad should be at an angle, not vertically.
Lunar contact is usually vertical. Any of the available petals is carefully raised (at least by a millimeter), focusing on the periphery of the cartridge. The folded ends are slightly straightened.

Most often, two or three fittings are enough for the lamp to turn on. Particular attention should be paid to the preservation of the edges of the cartridge, otherwise it will have to be changed.At all workplaces with a computer, since the last century, I have always installed a Delta table lamp with an electronic start (ballast). In addition to the convenient articulated arm, the power supply of the plug-in lamp with a frequency40kHz did not create flickering associated with the monitor scan and did not tire the eyes. The lamp is very reliable, for more than 10 years of lamp operation at home, only one lamp was replaced with a lamp, and only because of mechanical damage, but then problems began with the electronic unit. Naturally, I decided to look inside the lamp and repair it with my own hands. A simple dial-up did not reveal any obvious faults. An internet search led to a multi-page forum for repairing this fixture. Having re-soldered several capacitors, I received a negative result - the lamp does not work.The luminaire converter circuit, judging by the elements, does not differ in any way from the ballasts installed in widely used energy-saving lamps. Then the idea came to remove the electronics from the energy-saving lamp and install it instead of an electronic unit with an undiagnosed breakdown. Image - DIY table lamp repair

The plastic housing of an energy-saving lamp can be easily opened by prying off the cover with a glued-in lamp. Work carefully: firstly, glass, and secondly, although there is very little, but there is mercury inside the glass tube, and this chemical element accumulates in the body. For repairs, you can use an inexpensive new energy-saving lamp of the same wattage or electronics removed from a non-igniting lamp. I will dwell in more detail on the choice of a burned-out lamp. From my practice, 4/5 lamps do not light up due to the burnout of one of the two heating filaments (these are two wires coming out of the ends of the gas discharge tube). After opening the lamp, we check the condition of the threads with a tester. If there is no gap, then the lamps are usually discarded for scrap. And if there is a gap, then I short-circuit these two wires with a jumper right on the board, assemble the lamp and plug it into the network. The lamp is likely to light up. After such a repair, the lamp can be used from several weeks to a year. The record up to a year was set by a real Siemens lamp.

After such a check, we remove the launch board and solder it instead of the remote native electronic unit. If everything is connected correctly, the lamp will work! The photo shows that one of the filaments has already burned out and is short-circuited by an external jumper, which does not prevent the lamp from working at the workplace for 2 years already.

If your table lamp is designed for the use of ordinary incandescent bulbs with an E27 base (approximately the same as in the photo above), repairing such a table lamp with your own hands will be the most simple - you can do it in an hour. In the case of repairing a table fluorescent lamp, it may take a little more time - read more about such a repair at the very end of this article.

In the case of conventional table lamps, the most common cause of breakdowns is burnt wires near the socket - due to the use of incandescent bulbs of higher power than those for which the lamp is actually designed.

Light bulbs with a power of more than 60 W must not be used in table lamps! It is best to use LED bulbs of low power in such lamps, for example 3-4 W - there will be the same amount of light from them, and the savings and safety are obvious!

Be careful with the lamp - if it suddenly breaks, and you do not yet know the reason, do not touch its metal parts while it is connected to the mains!

All operations with the inspection of the lamp and its repair can be carried out only after the lamp plug is removed from the socket. Why? Because burnt wires can touch the metal shade of the lamp, and if you accidentally touch the metal, you can easily get an electric shock!

The list of the simplest tools and materials for repairing a table lamp with your own hands includes the following:

Screwdriver set of different sizes
Small sharp knife
Pliers with pliers
Two-core electrical wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm2 and a length of 50 cm
Ceramic cartridge
Roll of duct tape
Heat resistant insulation

First you need to disassemble the top of the lamp in order to remove the cartridge from it. Move down the outer corrugated cover of the lamp leg and unscrew the lampshade fixing screws hidden under it with a screwdriver to remove it.

After removing the cartridge, one can clearly see burnt and broken wires from overload, as well as broken insulation.

If the wires turn out to be intact, then the cause of the breakdown should be looked for elsewhere. Perhaps the wires are broken in another place, the lamp switch or the plug is faulty.Both can be bought without any problems at an electrical store or on the market and replaced (the plug, possibly, along with the entire wire).

If the chuck has clips for the ends of the electrical wire, you just need to strip them and insert them into the clips, while helping yourself with a knife and a suitable screwdriver.

If the wires to the cartridge have been soldered and there are no clamps on it, it will be easier to replace the entire cartridge with a suitable new one, with clips.

The screws on the chuck clamps must be tightened very carefully, as applying excessive force to the screwdriver can damage the clamp. In this case, the end of the wire will dangle in the broken clip and there is a high probability that it will burn again.

If the old wire is not enough after being burnt along the length or if it raises doubts, it is better to replace it with one purchased in advance.

When replacing the electrical wire when disconnecting the old one, remember or write down where which contact was connected, so as not to confuse anything in the future.

Make sure that the new two-wire wire is not too thick and fits into the metal leg of your desk lamp. At the point where the ends of the wire are attached to the clamps of the cartridge, it is advisable to put on thermal insulation in order to avoid severe overheating.

If your wire is not two-core, but just two separate wires, as in the photo, then pushing them together into the leg will be more difficult. In this case, you can use a little trick: wrap the ends with electrical tape.

If there is no soldering iron, then the connection of different wires (for example, coming from the switch) can be done by simply twisting the ends of the wires with a pigtail and carefully wrapping them with electrical tape.

It remains to lay the wires in their place and assemble the lamp. Be careful that the wires in the assembled lamp do not touch the socket under the lampshade.

But if you have a fluorescent table lamp on your table (with a so-called fluorescent lamp inside), with it the repair method will be somewhat different - more subtle, let's say.

To repair a desk fluorescent lamp, you will most likely have to use a driver (a board with control electronics) from a new inexpensive energy-saving lamp of the same power or from the same non-igniting lamp. The details of this process are best seen in the corresponding video below.

Watch an online video on how to repair a fluorescent table lamp:

In the dark, the outlines melt away. The lighting on the second floor at the dacha, where I make all sorts of things, was never enough. In the daytime, in front of the window, you can still somehow make out something, but at night ... The smaller the work, the more you strain your eyes, the more crooked it turns out. Bought an office desk lamp. It helped somehow. He actively exploited it for a couple of seasons, driving around the table. At the end of the second season, she broke down in the most disgusting way. The lamp itself worked fine, the pin at the base broke off. The lamp could only work while lying down. I tried to clamp it in a vice, it’s not convenient - it doesn’t spin. I tried to glue it, it doesn't work. Will work a little and break off again. It began to bother me a lot. And then one night the inspiration came down. I found a 70 mm M6 screw and a nut. I stuck it into the lamp, tightened the nut - the lamp stood up like new.Insert the M6 screw into the base of the lamp.We drill a hole up to 6 mm in the fallen-off "root".Without any glue, the lamp falls into place.I was too lazy to move the lamp to the other end of the table. I drilled a 6 mm hole in the table. Now, in a couple of seconds, the lamp was thrown to the other end of the table.The screw fits perfectly into the hole and holds the lamp.The lamp spins quietly around its axis.Now you can get to work. Let there be light! PS : When I was choosing a desk lamp for my home, the first thing I noticed was that the pin was metal. And what do you think? After six months of active operation, the plastic bracket broke. I had to drill the L table again.The ballast for the discharge lamp (fluorescent light sources) is used to ensure normal working conditions. Another name is a ballast (ballast). There are two options: electromagnetic and electronic. The first of them has a number of disadvantages, for example, noise, the effect of flickering of a fluorescent lamp.The second type of ballast eliminates many disadvantages in the operation of a light source of this group, and therefore is more popular. But breakdowns in such devices also happen. Before discarding, it is recommended to check the elements of the ballast circuit for faults. It is quite possible to independently repair electronic ballasts.The main function of the electronic ballast is to convert alternating current into direct current. In another way, the electronic ballast for gas discharge lamps is also called a high-frequency inverter. One of the advantages of such devices is their compactness and, accordingly, low weight, which further simplifies the operation of fluorescent light sources. And also the electronic ballast does not create noise during operation.The electronic ballast, after connecting to the power source, provides current rectification and heating of the electrodes. In order for the fluorescent lamp to light up, a voltage of a certain magnitude is applied. The current is adjusted automatically, which is realized by means of a special regulator. Image - DIY table lamp repair

This eliminates the likelihood of flickering. The last stage is a high-voltage pulse. The luminescent lamp is ignited in 1.7 s. If a failure occurs when the light source is started, the filament body instantly breaks down (burns out). Then you can try to do the repair yourself, for which you need to open the case. The electronic ballast circuit looks like this:

The main elements of the electronic ballast of a fluorescent lamp: filters; directly the rectifier itself; converter; throttle. The circuit also provides protection against power surges, which eliminates the need for repairs for this reason. And, in addition, the ballast for discharge lamps implements the function of power factor correction.

For the intended purpose, the following types of electronic ballasts are found:

for linear lamps;
ballast built into the design of compact fluorescent light sources.

Electronic ballasts for fluorescent lamps are divided into groups that differ in functionality: analog; digital; standard.

The ballast is connected on the one hand to the power source, on the other - to the lighting element. It is necessary to provide for the possibility of installing and fixing electronic ballasts. Connection is made in accordance with the polarity of the wires. If you plan to install two lamps through a ballast, the parallel connection option is used.

The diagram will look like this:

A group of gas-discharge fluorescent lamps cannot work normally without a ballast. Its electronic design provides a soft, but at the same time almost instantaneous start of the light source, which further extends its service life.

The ignition and maintenance of the functioning of the lamp is carried out in three stages: the heating of the electrodes, the appearance of radiation as a result of a high-voltage pulse, the maintenance of combustion is carried out by means of a constant supply of a small voltage.

If there are problems in the operation of gas discharge lamps (flickering, lack of glow), you can make repairs yourself. But first you need to understand what the problem is: the ballast or the lighting element. To check the operation of the electronic ballast, a linear lamp is removed from the luminaires, the electrodes are closed, and a conventional incandescent lamp is connected. If it lights up, the problem is not with the ballast.

Otherwise, you need to look for the cause of the breakdown inside the ballast.To determine the malfunction of fluorescent lamps, it is necessary to "ring" all the elements in turn. You should start with the fuse. If one of the circuit nodes is out of order, it is necessary to replace it with an analogue. The parameters can be seen on the burnt element. Repairing HID ballast requires the use of soldering iron skills.

If everything is in order with the fuse, then the capacitor and diodes that are installed in close proximity to it should be checked for serviceability. The capacitor voltage should not be below a certain threshold (this value differs for different elements). If all the control gear elements are in working order, without visible damage and the ringing also gave nothing, it remains to check the choke winding.

In some cases, it is easier to buy a new lamp. It is advisable to do this in the case when the cost of individual elements is higher than the expected limit or in the absence of sufficient skills in the soldering process.

Repair of compact fluorescent lamps is carried out according to a similar principle: first, the case is disassembled; the filaments are checked, the cause of the breakdown on the control gear board is determined. There are often situations where the ballast is completely functional and the filaments are burned out. In this case, it is difficult to repair the lamp. If there is another broken light source of a similar model in the house, but with an intact incandescent body, you can combine the two products into one.

Thus, the electronic ballast represents a group of improved devices that ensure the efficient operation of fluorescent lamps. If the light source flickers or does not turn on at all, checking the ballast and then repairing it will extend the life of the light bulb.

This article describes the possible causes of a fluorescent lamp breakdown and its repair.

Electronic ballast - this little plastic box, and this is actually all that is inside (well, except for the wires, of course).

We open the electronic ballast and here it is the board (the heart of our lamp), then we will repair it.

An ordinary pulse converter is an electronic ballast, which is made according to a well-known traditional scheme, for this reason this scheme is not presented.

First, we check the fuse F, if it is working - we look further, if it is out of order - change it and see further.
Check the electrolytic capacitor (shown as C1 in the photo above) and installed diodes near it. If the capacitor is out of order, replace it with an analog, 6.8 uF x 400 V. Diodes of the 1N4007 type.
Check capacitor C2. This is one of the weak points in this circuit, it is considered weak most likely due to the use of a low-quality Chinese capacitor here. Here it was changed to a 4700 x 2kV capacitor (see the photo below).
Ring all the remaining semiconductor elements, if something is out of order - change it, if everything is normal - check the choke winding again, if it works too - change dinistor D.

Well, that's all. Keep in mind that there are times when repairs can cost more than the cost of a new lamp, so if this is the case, then don't torture yourself, it's easier to buy a new one.

If you did everything right, then this lamp will still serve you.

Before repairing, it is better to first check the operability of the LDS itself, since it may be that the lamp itself is out of order, and this is possible not only because of the incandescence (check, of course, just in case), but maybe the lamp is simply old.
When you replace the lamp, turn it on in complete darkness, if you can see a weak glow of the incandescence, then this is most likely the reason for the failure of the capacitor C2, in which case you can try to change it first, and if this does not help, then follow the entire sequence of steps outlined above.
In the case of a "difficult" repair, check all ballast elements.This is a general tip for repairing impulse circuits.
It is advisable to turn on the lamp for the first time by turning on a conventional incandescent lamp with a power of 40-60 W.
Also, as in any other impulse devices, it is necessary to avoid connecting the ballast without load, otherwise its breakdown is practically guaranteed.

Dear site visitors.

Sometimes such a malfunction occurs, after installing and connecting a luminaire with two fluorescent lamps, the luminaire is working properly. Several months pass and the lamp starts to turn on with one lamp. You start to turn the lamp in sockets, change the starter, but there is no result. What to do and how to be, how to repair a lamp with fluorescent lamps yourself?

To begin with, consider the schemes of such lamps with fluorescent lamps:

two fluorescent lamps;
two starters;
one choke;
capacitor.

The fluorescent lamp has two filament spirals. Lamps, starter and choke are connected in series in the electrical circuit. The capacitor is connected in parallel.

capacitor;
two starters;
two fluorescent lamps;
two chokes.

The connection of fluorescent lamps in Fig. 2 does not differ in any way from the connection diagram of the lamps in Fig. 1. Two wires, phase, zero have a branch in this circuit.

And the simplest circuit of a luminaire with one lamp is shown in Fig. 3, where the capacitor, lamp and starter in the circuit are connected in parallel. The choke is connected in an electrical circuit - in series.

Similar lamps are found with three lamps. The very essence of the matter is not in this, - not in the number of lamps.

The reasons for not turning on a luminaire with one lamp or a luminaire consisting of two or more lamps, when one of the lamps of the luminaire does not turn on, may be as follows:

malfunction of the lamp itself;
no contact with the throttle;
no contact with the starter;
break in the wires.

The electrical circuit of the luminaire and establish exactly where the break is located - you can check with a probe. After you have purchased the luminaire, check all the contact connections of the luminaire.

Practical example. In the room, an electrician completely carried out the installation and connection of fluorescent lamps with two lamps, after a certain time some lamps began to work with one lamp. When I began to check the contact connections of the lamps, the reason was the following - an unreliable contact connection of one of the wires with the choke. Where there was no contact with the throttle, the lamp did not turn on.

Repair of fluorescent lamps - with electronic ballast

Armstrong fluorescent ceiling recessed luminaires with electronic ballast are simple in design and convenient in that they do not require any effort during removal and installation.

recessed ceiling lamp Armstrong

electronic ballast power supply FINTAR

Here is an example from my own practice. It was necessary to fix the malfunction of the Armstrong recessed ceiling lamp.

For this, the luminaire had to be removed from the ceiling and the electrical connections had to be checked. As a result of the diagnostics, it was found that the electronic elements of the FINTAR electronic ballast were out of order - burned out.

It was such a power supply unit that was not on sale; I had to purchase another similar electronic ballast for a lamp for four fluorescent lamps - Navigator.

electronic ballast Navigator

If you look closely at the two power supplies, the wiring diagrams for the fluorescent lamps are different.

The question arises: How to connect the fluorescent lamps of the ceiling lamp to another power supply?

In this example, the wire connections to the fluorescent lamp holders only need to be made according to the electrical diagram of the newly installed power supply.

Accordingly, the circuit of the contact connections of the wires had to be redone, cut off in one place, and build up the wire in another. When changing the connection diagram, the wires are pre-twisted and insulated with insulating tape.

After all the connections have been made and after making sure that when the luminaire is connected to an external source of electrical energy, the socket - all four fluorescent lamps light up - the insulating tape is removed at the place of wire connections.

A piece of cambric is put on one of the wires. The connected copper wires are etched with soldering acid and then a small layer of tin is applied to the junction with a soldering iron, soldering the wires.

etching of wire connections with soldering acid followed by soldering

soldering connected wires

Further, after the soldering of the two wires is completed, a cambric is put on the junction instead of an insulating tape.

insulation of wire connections with cambric instead of insulating tape

This method of connecting wires with subsequent insulation with cambric is simpler and more reliable. If you connect two wires simply in a twist without soldering and then insulate with an insulating tape, the connection will subsequently undergo oxidation and heating of the wires.

Numbering of contact connections of wires with electronic ballast - goes from top to bottom. That is, the first and second contact wire connection must correspond to the connection of two fluorescent lamps on one side, and so on. When connecting, you need to carefully look at the electrical diagram of the power supply and follow the given execution of such connections.

contact connection of wires to the electronic power supply electronic ballast

A small layer of tin is also applied to the ends of the bare wires before connecting to the electronic power supply unit, for a high-quality connection.

Video (click to play).

In general, there is nothing complicated here, and you can easily eliminate such a malfunction.

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