Do-it-yourself Sinhaizer headphone repair

Hello everyone! I have sennheiser cx-300 headphones - the plug broke off, I decided to replace it. After opening the wire, I saw the following picture: 4th cores: two pairs:
1st pair - green and green-red veins
2nd pair - red and yellow veins
question - what to solder to what? Sorry if the question is stupid!

red wire to the middle contact on the plug, green to the upper contact (the one that is the smallest) and twist the green-red wire with copper and solder to the largest contact (the one at the rim)

Thank you, that's how it is. DRug tore off the plug and threw it away.

here is the only correct pinout

Thanks, helped a lot. Everything works, oddly enough.

red, green - right, left
striped, yellow - earth

pinout is wrong. the bass is stronger in the right ear.

the only correct pinout! Respectos :)

otherwise, of course, it also works, but the sound is no longer the same due to the reversal of the poles

I repaired these headphones today. Here are my tips and observations:
1) cut the wires and see 3 different colors (green and red and yellow)
2) We see that there is separately red, separately green, separately yellow, red-green (twisted together)
3) and so we twist the green separately with the yellow, we get 3 pairs (red-green, yellow-green and red wire)
4) Solder the yellow-green to the “Ground”, this is the saaaaaaa longest contact at the plug. Further to the 2 remaining contacts that look at each other, they are paired, each responsible for the right or left channel. We solder red-green and red to them, respectively, if you're lucky, you will guess the headphone channel the first time, if you are not lucky, just swap

I hope you understand, thanks for your attention

correct pinout: green - left channel, yellow - right channel, red and red-green connect to ground

lousy explained. on jack 4 pins

The question is not stupid! There should be only 4 veins - red, green, yellow, yellow. We connect the yellow ones together and solder them onto a long contact, pass through the hole, then green to the left and red to the right contact!

Uh. If I am not mistaken, then green to green, red to red, etc. No?

Headphones consist of a wire, a plug, and two speakers. Additionally, the headset is equipped with a microphone and volume control. Any of these elements fail over time. Before making repairs, you need to figure out how to disassemble the headphones so as not to break them completely.

Reveal the malfunction of the plug by crushing the incoming wire with your fingers. The headphones are connected to a mobile phone or computer, play a music file, and then proceed to diagnostics.

Typically, copper conductors break at the entrance to the rubber or plastic housing of the plug and inside it. If at times a sound appears in the speakers while the cable is being repaired, then the plug must be disassembled and repaired.

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, The earphone does not work: breakdown diagnostics, repair methods Do-it-yourself headphone repair

The plug restoration procedure consists of the following steps:

The plug is bite off with pliers from the headphone cable.

The purpose of the repair is to remove the metal part from the casing. The element is firmly soldered. Trying to keep the old casing is unwise. It is easier to cut along it with a sharp knife.

The metal part of the plug is carefully removed from the casing so that the contacts do not break off. The soldered wires should be kept as well. The color of the insulation makes it clearer where to solder the cores of the headphone cable.

In the event of a wire breakage from the contacts on the soldering itself, the standard circuit shown in the photo is used for connection. The color of the insulation in the headset cable differs from manufacturer to manufacturer. Most often, the common core is in black or yellow insulation. To be sure, it is better to ring the tester from the speakers to the place where the cable is cut.

Headphones can be equipped with a microphone. In such models, instead of three, four cores are hidden under the cable braid. The connection takes place according to a different scheme shown in the photo.

The cable cut from the plug is stripped. First, remove the main sheath and release the ends of the veins. The edges of the thin wires are cleaned with a sharp knife. It is enough to remove 5 mm of insulation length so that it is enough to solder the copper core to the contact of the plug.

The wires are twisted from thin veins, and all of them are covered with a protective varnish. This sputtering prevents soldering. The varnish is removed by scraping with a knife or burned with a fire from a lighter. The ends of pure copper veins must be tinned. The common wire will be connected on one contact, so it is immediately soldered together.

The new plug cover is made from the bottom cap of a ballpoint pen. The wire is inserted through the pen opening. The put-on cap is moved along the cable further from the soldering point.

After the cap, a piece of heat shrink tubing is put on the wire. The sleeve protects the wire from breaking near the new plug cover.

The conductors of the cable are soldered to the contacts of the plug. It is important not to forget that the wires match the color of the insulation. The performance is checked by calling the tester. It is easier to plug the plug into the socket of a mobile phone or computer.

If both earbuds are working properly, a heat-shrink tubing is placed over the pins of the plug. It is heated by a lighter fire. The tube will fit snugly around the pins of the plug. For reliability, you can squeeze with your fingers while the plastic is hot.

Finally, the inside of the cap is greased with epoxy. A little glue is applied to the heat shrink tubing. Slide the cap along the cable until the back of the plug is fully inserted into the stopper. After a day, the resin will harden and the headphones can be used.

The wire can break not only at the plug, but also near the speaker. To get to this part in vacuum headphones, do the following:

A seam is found on the body of the earphone. They are trying to make an incision on it with a sharp knife. The body is lightly pressed with pliers so that the seam comes apart.

When the case falls apart into two parts, the rear of the speaker with contacts will appear on the survey. The damaged cores are soldered off with a soldering iron, but first they mark the color of the insulation with a marker so as not to confuse the wires.

A damaged piece is cut off from the general cable of the headset. The conductors of a working wire are stripped, after which they are soldered to the speaker contacts, observing the marks of the insulation color.

The operation of the vacuum headset is checked by connecting it to a telephone or computer jack. If a non-intermittent high-quality sound comes from the speakers, the halves of the headphone housing are glued together.

The speakers in the large earbuds are hidden inside the case, the disassembly of which is complicated by hidden screws and latches. If all the fasteners are not identified, the plastic elements of the headset will simply break from the applied efforts of the hands. The methods for disassembling headphones from different manufacturers differ. For example, consider several popular models:

Disassemble the Sennheiser HD203 headset by removing the ear pads. Soft pads are held by snaps, which are easily detached with a plastic card.

There are four screws under the soft pads. They are unscrewed with a screwdriver.

The halves of the case are not glued together. After unscrewing the screws, the elements will easily separate into two parts. The speakers are fixed on the front panel, to the contacts of which you have to solder a new wire.

Headset manufacturer Steelseries Siberia glues soft pads. The ear pads are separated from the body with a screwdriver or knife.The fastening of the body halves in different models is used with screws or latches. In the second option, disassembly is not complete without breaking the locks. The assembly of the case with broken latches is carried out with glue. In the future, it will not be possible to disassemble a firmly glued earpiece.

Things are simpler with the soft pads in the Razer Kraken headphones. The ear cushions are simply put on without being fixed with glue or snaps. After removing the overlays, a paper sticker enters the view. Four screws are hidden under it.

For Philips and Audio-Technica headphones, the ear cushions are similarly not secured with anything. The overlays are simply put on the rim of the cup.

Headphones for a computer are produced with a volume control and a microphone. The mobile phone headset is equipped with a button to turn on and off the conversation. All of these elements are hidden in a small plastic case attached to a cord. To get to these elements, you will have to perform similar actions that are used when disassembling vacuum headphones. The body is glued together, and you can only divide it into two halves by cutting with a knife.

A malfunction of the volume control is determined by crackling in the speakers and poor sound. The problem lies in the variable resistor. The part consists of a slider moving along the resistive layer. You can extend the life of the resistor with graphite grease. Using a cotton swab, the paste is applied to the resistive layer.

The problem of the microphone is revealed by the deterioration in audibility experienced by the subscriber with whom the conversation is being conducted. The cause is often a blockage. The microphone is wiped with cotton wool or gauze soaked in alcohol. After repairing the resistor and microphone, the two halves of the case are glued together.

Disassembling headphones of any brand is easy. The main thing is to be careful. Broken plastic parts cannot be recovered.

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Finally decided on the first post. I'll tell you about an interesting repair of the Sennheiser CX 200 headphone plug. These headphones have not spared a typical problem, one headphone stopped playing. The problem is in the plug. Once they had to be done, the original plug body was cut off. The connector is soldered and seated back with two layers of heat shrink tubing. I advise you to use your own plugs, because they are of much better quality than the Chinese collapsible plugs in stores. I don’t see any reason to buy an expensive plug. a good plug costs a quarter or even a third of the cost of headphones. After repair, the headphones served faithfully for several months)

Unfortunately, the non-angled connector of the plug turns out to be highly loaded when worn in a pocket, which led to repeated loss of contact in one of the “ears”. Repeated repairs, in the same way, did not arouse enthusiasm in me. As a result, I found an interesting solution on the network. Headphone plug in the housing from the sleeve. Yes, yes, that's right. It is from an ordinary pistol sleeve. I immediately decided that I would do the same.

What we need to make this plug body:

3) Dremel with attachments (cutting wheel, various abrasive and polishing).

4) Electric drill (instead of a dremel).

7) Heat gun with attachments (may not be needed)

9) Soldering iron (flux, rosin, solder, tweezers).

The most difficult thing here is most likely to get the sleeves. I managed to find 9 mm sleeves.

1. It is necessary to cut off the base of one of the sleeves. For this I used a clamp and a dremel.

At this point, the sleeve has a rather thick steel. As a result, the cut turned out to be not quite even, but becauseit will not be visible, we do not pay attention to it. Without a dremel, you can cut it off with a hacksaw for metal. The cut off base looks like this:

2. In the next step, we get the plug body. To do this, the second sleeve must be shortened. I cut to 13mm at first. But this turned out to be a bit too much, empirically shortened it to 12 mm.

3. We drill a hole with a diameter of 3 mm. I drilled with a dremel, but you can also use a drill.

Initially, I wanted to do the same as I saw on the net. The base of the sleeve in that case was superimposed on the body, because the outer diameter is the same. It turned out to be a kind of cap)

I decided to make it on the same level with the end of the case. To do this, we had to reduce the diameter of the base. I used a dremel with an abrasive nozzle.

We figure out what should happen in the end.

4. We clean the inside of the cartridge case from gunpowder, for better adhesion with glue.

5. Preparing the heat shrink tubing. I cut 4 pieces at first, but ended up using only two large pieces. We install on the cable in advance, thread the sleeve through the body.

We solder the wires. Tinned the wires with a flux. The quality of the soldering was checked with a multimeter. The impedance on this model is 16 ohms. I checked both channels, they are 16 ohms. In fact, a multimeter is a very useful thing, because when soldering, the plug heats up to a fairly high temperature, the inner plastic insulators (black) begin to melt. I once got a short circuit between the right channel (red) and the minus. During the soldering of the right channel, the insulator melted and the body shifted and shorted to the minus body. He again warmed up the minus case with a soldering iron and aligned the case of the right channel. So use a multimeter, it is much easier and faster to check.

A common disadvantage is to solder it neatly. In the photo below, an example of how to solder is not worth it.

Let me explain why. Because there will be a base from the sleeve on top, too much solder will interfere with the installation. I soldered this way at first. Later he altered it.

6. Gluing the resulting structure. At first I decided to fill everything with B-7000 glue, but this idea failed. The glue did not dry for a long time and remained plastic, which is unacceptable in our case. I had to clean everything, re-solder everything. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a photo after the rework. For the reliability of fastening, a common minus, I squeezed a small piece of heat shrinkage. To isolate the earphone channel from the sleeve body, I cut a small piece from a regular ballpoint pen shaft. It turned out to be a small plastic ring through which the base of the plug will not crawl through, but it is perfectly centered.

The gluing of the structure was carried out in 2 stages. At the first stage, I used ordinary glue, which was at hand at home, transparent Contact. This step is needed for the initial fixing of the plug, gluing the centering ring. After drying, you can proceed to the final gluing of the body.

7. Final assembly. Well, the most crucial moment has come. For the final gluing I chose a glue gun. Because I know that the result will be a solid composition, which we need in this case. Again, the network was glued with epoxy. I was too lazy to buy it on purpose, and why spend money when there is a good alternative.

So, we warm up the glue gun, fill the sleeve body.

!! Remember !! The glue hardens in a few seconds at room temperature.

... in general, the first time I did not have time to press the base of the second sleeve. That's it, I have a full sleeve of solid glue to the brim and it is no longer possible to drown the base. To pick it out back is not an option, you will have to redo everything in this case. As a result, I used a hot air gun. I put a hot air gun with a nozzle on the tiled floor, then put the headphone case at a short distance. After a couple of minutes, the glue became liquid again, began to press down on the base of the sleeve with thin-nose pliers. We recessed until it is flush with the end of the case. Then everything is sanded, slightly polished.

These are the headphones with the original angled plug! If you have any questions, ask)

In the everyday life of a modern person, headphones are an indispensable attribute that allows you to enjoy listening to your favorite music and audiobooks anywhere and anytime. Unfortunately, this gadget does not last forever and is prone to breakage. In such a situation, you have to think about whether it is possible to repair the headphones with your own hands, or whether it is better to buy new ones. It is recommended not to rush to throw away the old ones, since broken ones, in most cases, can be repaired at home. How to fix the headphones yourself, and will be discussed in this article.

Headphones are a fairly simple device, so all faults can be listed literally on the fingers. Frequent reasons why the headphones stopped working are the following:

• breakage of the plug;
• defective headphone cord;
• the volume control is out of order.

If the headphones are broken, the first thing to do is to pay attention to junction of the plug with the cable... Often the cause of the breakdown lies in this very place. Due to frequent bends, the cable cores break, so the signal does not pass to one "ear" of the gadget or to both at once... Also, the microphone may not work.

It is quite easy to detect a breakdown. It is necessary, with the gadget turned on, to try to bend the cable in the place of the alleged breakdown in different directions. If at the same time a sound appears or a crackle is heard, it means that one of the wires of the wire is interrupted. What to do if a problematic spot is found on the cable?

To repair your headphones, do the following.

1. Cut off the plug from the cable.
   
2. To repair the plug will be used the inside of the old with a slight modification. To remove this part, you need to cut the plastic shell using a clerical knife, as shown in the figure below.
   

After cutting the plastic, pull out the insides of the plug. You will see contacts to which several thin wires of different colors are soldered. In the same way, you can disassemble headphones from an iPhone.

Memorize or sketch on paper to which pin, what color the wire was connected to. The pictures below show standard wiring diagrams cable cores. The color of the conductors may differ in different models, in this case, green is the left channel, red is the right channel, and copper (without insulation) is common.

If you need to repair headphones with a microphone, which are connected with one plug (usually there are 2 plugs on the cable), then the wiring diagram will be as in the figure below.

Next, you need to free the inner cores of the cable from the outer (general) insulation.

The procedure for replacing the plug is the same for all types of headsets, for example, such as: headphones Beats By Dr, Sennheiser (Senheiser) HD 215, Razer Kraken (Kraken) Pro, as well as, for headphones Steelseries Siberia v2, Audio-technica ATH-ES7 and headphones Defender.

How do I repair my headphones if the headset cord is faulty? You can try to find fracture site internal cable veins, probing and bending all its sections while the gadget is running. If you hear a crack or sound during the test, mark this place with a marker. Further, in the place of the break, the cable is cut and stripped. After that, the ends of thin conductors must be soldered, observing the color, and insulated.

If the break point is not found, then the entire cord will need to be replaced.... In the following example, the repair of vacuum headphones will be shown.

1. Before disassembling broken vacuum headphones, you need to purchase a new cable - you can order it online.
2. Using a clerical knife, carefully disassemble (separate) the glued phone gadget into 2 parts.
   
3. After opening, you will see the soldering points to which you need to solder the new cable. Thus, you can repair the headsets Beats (Bits) by Dr. Dre, Sony, Audio Technica Ath-CKR10.
   
4. In the same way, Iphone headphones are repaired. But when disassembling apple headphones, you should be careful and write down or sketch the location of the wires. They can be multi-colored.
   

Large gadgets, such as, for example, Philips headphones or Sven headphones for a computer, differ from plug-in ones only in the size of the speaker (membrane in small gadgets). Difficulties can arise when trying to get to the speaker in order to solder the wires.

Different manufacturers of headsets have different methods of opening them. These can be latches that are difficult to find or hidden screws hidden under the soft “cushions” - ear pads. For example, the question often arises, how to disassemble the Sennheiser HD203 headphones?

1. Use a credit card or other flat object to pry out the ear cups securing clips.
   
2. After removing the soft pads, you will see 4 screws that need to be removed.
   
3. On the disassembled device, you will see contacts with wires soldered to them, which must be unsoldered and replaced with new ones.
   

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When repairing Steelseries Siberia headphones, the ear cushions stay glue-based... You can remove them by gently prying with a screwdriver, after which you can find the fasteners. Some models use latches instead of screws, which can break with strong pressure. If they break, you will have to glue the gadget cups, after which they will become non-separable.

On the Razer Kraken headphones, the ear cushions are not glued and are easy to remove.

After detaching them, the fasteners can be found under the glued paper.

In the Audio-Technica M30 or ES7 headset, they are also worn on the rim of the gadget's cup. Phillips headphones are no exception.

By the way, the Audio-Technica ES7 headphones have hinges for rotating the ear cups. Therefore, if you, while repairing a gadget, disassemble it, then you need to be careful.

The Philips SHD 8600 headset is free from all the drawbacks associated with replacing the plug and cable, since it is a representative wireless devices.

How do I fix my headphones if I have problems with the volume control in the form of loss of sound or crackling? In this case, you can use graphite greaseto apply it to the resistive layer to re-establish contact. The headset should then function without issue.

If the headset continues to work poorly after lubrication, then the regulator must be replaced with a new one.

Thus, in most cases, before you run and buy a new headset, you can do it yourself. This requires a thin tip soldering iron and skills in handling it.

In this article, we will take a closer look at how to disassemble different types of headphones using the example of the most popular brands.... We looked at how to repair headphones in this article.

Generalized instructions for disassembling any model of headphones looks like this:

1. Removing the ear pads.
2. Unscrew the screws on the headphone case.
3. We carefully take out the speaker.
4. If you need to replace the speaker, then carefully solder the wires coming from the speaker.
5. Unscrew the remaining screws on the headband and headphone case, if there is a need for complete disassembly, for example, when replacing individual parts of the earphone or headband.

(Basically, the ear cushions are removed quite easily and are held on small latches, but in some models of headphones, for example, Beats, they can be additionally glued. In this case, you will first need to carefully peel them off with a thin scalpel or knife, if they do not come off by themselves when trying There may also be headphone models in which the ear pads are additionally screwed with one or two screws to the headphone case, for example, in some Sony models.)

On-ear (full-size) headphones are the easiest to disassemble. For this we need :

1. Phillips screwdriver (according to the size of the screws on the headphones);
2. A thin knife or scalpel (you will need it to carefully peel off the ear pads planted on the glue, as well as for other trifles);
3. Soldering iron;

Now let's take a closer look at the process of disassembling headphones on some models of two popular brands - Beats and Sony.

An analysis of two of the most famous over-ear headphones from Beats - Solo and Studio. The models differ slightly from each other, so the analysis will also be slightly different.

Remove the cover from the battery compartment. It is located on the left side of the earpiece. To do this, carefully turn it counterclockwise. You also need to remove the pads. It's easy to do - click on them from the side and separate from the speaker.

We now see two speakers. To disassemble the earphone further, we need to carefully remove them. To do this, take a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screws and take out the speakers.

Next we see two wires coming from the speaker (soldered to it). In order to remove the speaker itself, we need to carefully unsolder them.

After removing the speakers, you should have an arc and a side body (spoons). In one of the headphone cases, you will see a board. You need to carefully remove it. This must be done from the side of the speaker itself. Behind the speaker, you will see a plastic mount held in place by two bolts. To remove the board, we need to unscrew these bolts, then both the board and the mount itself can be easily removed.

Now you need to unsolder all the wires soldered to the board.

Separate the side case of the earphone from the arc.

To do this, first unscrew the bolts on the arc itself, then on the body. Then gently bend the inside of the case away from the outside (they are held on by snaps).

After that, calmly remove the necessary wires from the bifurcated case. You will have one arc left.

Now the headphones can be considered practically disassembled. If you wish, you can unscrew 4 more screws and detach the rubber bands from the latch to completely disassemble the arc. But, if you only need the wire from the arc, then it can be removed without problems immediately after completing step 7.

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The headphones are assembled back in the same way.

Removing the ear pads. To do this, turn them counterclockwise. The pads can be glued on, so to remove them you need to take a scalpel and carefully separate the pads from the body.

Now you need to remove the two speakers. To do this, take a Phillips screwdriver and remove the screws. Pull out the speakers themselves carefully.

Now we carefully solder the wires from the speakers.

After that, we were left with only the arc and the side case with the wires sticking out of it. Now take a scalpel or flathead screwdriver and bend the inside of the case away from the outside (they are attached with a latch).

After bifurcating the side case, carefully pull out the wire. Only the arc remains intact.

If you want to disassemble it, unscrew 4 screws on it and detach the rubber bands from the latch.

The headphones are assembled back in the same way.

Consider the analysis of Sony headphones using the example of two well-known models Sony MDR XD100 and Sony MDR XB700.

There is nothing special about this model. Basically, the instructions and instructions are similar to the general one.

We remove the earphone. To do this, unscrew one bolt on the headband that holds the headphone mount:

Removing the detailthat holds the headphone mount:

We unwind the body of the earphone itself... To do this, you can first remove the ear cushions, but without removing the ear cushions, you can carefully find two bolts on opposite sides, as shown in the figure, unscrew them and remove the earphone, as we did:

On this the analysis of our earphone is over.

if you you need to disassemble it further, or you want to change the speaker, re-solder the wires, then you it is necessary to carefully unsolder two wires with a soldering ironcoming from the speaker:

If you want or need, you can disassemble the remaining parts of the earphoneby unscrewing the remaining bolts on the body.

Consider the parsing of these headphones using the example of replacing ear pads. Taking into account the fact that in this model it is not so easy to do it, I think this instruction will be useful to all owners of this and similar model.

Move aside carefully ear cushion and look for three bolts under the cushion on the case (two side by side and one separately on the opposite side).

If you don't want to disassemble the whole earphone, and just want to replace the ear pads, then you only need to unscrew one bolt - the second of the two that are side by side on the same side (as shown in the picture below).

To change ear pads, we need to carefully remove the clip ring and remove the ear pad.

Consider the analysis of droplets using the example of Philips vacuum headphones.

1. Gently pry off the silicone ear pads with a screwdriver (you can use a nail file or nails) and remove them.
2. We take a clerical knife and carefully cut a seam, then use a screwdriver to push the halves of the case apart.
3. If there is a need to remove / replace the speaker, then carefully solder the wires and disconnect the speaker:
4. The headphone mesh can be easily pulled out by prying it with a thin needle:

That's all. The earphone is disassembled. Also assembled in the reverse order. Only the previously glued parts will have to be glued again.

How to disassemble vacuum headphones:

Consider the analysis of droplets using the example of headphones from the iPhone - Apple EarPods. Any earbuds can be disassembled in the same way.

Dismantling the control panel:

The headset remote consists of the following components:

1. two plastic covers - one on top, the other on the bottom;
2. elastic band with buttons;
3. flexible fee;
4. oblong metal plate.

It is better to use a pick to disassemble the remote control. 😎

1. Carefully cut the seam with a pick.
2. Removing the top cover:
3. We remove the bottom cover and see an oblong metal plate (on it we also see a hole for a microphone, which is actually not on the plastic cover, in old models it is purely decorative):
4. Also, on a metal plate, we see a flexible board, on which we observe two microcircuits:

That's all. Our remote is disassembled. 🙂

View of the disassembled earphone from the front and from the back:

Disassembled entirely Apple EarPods

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