DIY headphone repair iPhone

In detail: do-it-yourself headphone repair iPhone from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

In the everyday life of a modern person, headphones are an indispensable attribute that allows you to enjoy listening to your favorite music and audiobooks anywhere and anytime. Unfortunately, this gadget does not last forever and is prone to breakage. In such a situation, you have to think about whether it is possible to repair the headphones with your own hands, or whether it is better to buy new ones. It is recommended not to rush to throw away the old ones, since broken ones, in most cases, can be repaired at home. How to fix the headphones yourself, and will be discussed in this article.

Headphones are a fairly simple device, so all faults can be listed literally on the fingers. Frequent reasons why the headphones stopped working are the following:

breakage of the plug;
defective headphone cord;
the volume control is out of order.

If the headphones are broken, the first thing to do is to pay attention to junction of the plug with the cable... Often the cause of the breakdown lies in this very place. Due to frequent bends, the cable cores break, so the signal does not pass to one "ear" of the gadget or to both at once... Also, the microphone may not work.

It is quite easy to detect a breakdown. It is necessary, with the gadget turned on, to try to bend the cable in the place of the alleged breakdown in different directions. If at the same time a sound appears or a crackle is heard, it means that one of the wires of the wire is interrupted. What to do if a problematic spot is found on the cable?

To repair your headphones, do the following.

Cut off the plug from the cable.
To repair the plug will be used the inside of the old with a slight modification. To remove this part, you need to cut the plastic shell using a clerical knife, as shown in the figure below.

Video (click to play).

After cutting the plastic, pull out the insides of the plug. You will see contacts to which several thin wires of different colors are soldered. In the same way, you can disassemble headphones from an iPhone.

Video (click to play).

Memorize or sketch on paper to which pin, what color the wire was connected to. The pictures below show standard wiring diagrams cable cores. The color of the conductors may differ in different models, in this case, green is the left channel, red is the right channel, and copper (without insulation) is common.

If you need to repair headphones with a microphone, which are connected with one plug (usually there are 2 plugs on the cable), then the wiring diagram will be as in the figure below.

Next, you need to free the inner cores of the cable from the outer (general) insulation.

The procedure for replacing the plug is the same for all types of headsets, for example, such as: headphones Beats By Dr, Sennheiser (Senheiser) HD 215, Razer Kraken (Kraken) Pro, as well as, for headphones Steelseries Siberia v2, Audio-technica ATH-ES7 and headphones Defender.

How do I repair my headphones if the headset cord is faulty? You can try to find fracture site internal cable veins, probing and bending all its sections while the gadget is running. If you hear a crack or sound during the test, mark this place with a marker. Further, in the place of the break, the cable is cut and stripped. After that, the ends of thin conductors must be soldered, observing the color, and insulated.

If the break point is not found, then the entire cord will need to be replaced.... In the following example, the repair of vacuum headphones will be shown.

Before disassembling broken vacuum headphones, you need to purchase a new cable - you can order it online.
Using a utility knife, carefully disassemble (separate) the glued phone gadget into 2 parts.
After opening, you will see the soldering points to which you need to solder the new cable. Thus, you can repair the headsets Beats (Bits) by Dr. Dre, Sony, Audio Technica Ath-CKR10.
In the same way, Iphone headphones are repaired. But when disassembling apple headphones, you should be careful and write down or sketch the location of the wires. They can be multi-colored.

Large gadgets, such as, for example, Philips headphones or Sven headphones for a computer, differ from plug-in ones only in the size of the speaker (membrane in small gadgets). Difficulties can arise when trying to get to the speaker in order to solder the wires.

Different manufacturers of headsets have different methods of opening them. These can be latches that are difficult to find or hidden screws hidden under soft “cushions” - ear pads. For example, the question often arises, how to disassemble the Sennheiser HD203 headphones?

Use a credit card or other flat object to pry out the ear cups securing clips.
After removing the soft pads, you will see 4 screws that need to be removed.
On the disassembled device, you will see contacts with wires soldered to them, which must be unsoldered and replaced with new ones.

When repairing Steelseries Siberia headphones, the ear cushions stay glue-based... You can remove them by gently prying with a screwdriver, after which you can find the fasteners. Some models use latches instead of screws, which can break with strong pressure. If they break, you will have to glue the gadget cups, after which they will become non-separable.

On the Razer Kraken headphones, the ear cushions are not glued and are easy to remove.

After detaching them, the fasteners can be found under the glued paper.

In the Audio-Technica M30 or ES7 headset, they are also worn on the rim of the gadget's cup. Phillips headphones are no exception.

By the way, the Audio-Technica ES7 headphones have hinges for rotating the ear cups. Therefore, if you, while repairing a gadget, disassemble it, then you need to be careful.

The Philips SHD 8600 headset is free from all the drawbacks associated with replacing the plug and cable, since it is a representative wireless devices.

How do I fix my headphones if I have problems with the volume control in the form of loss of sound or crackling? In this case, you can use graphite greaseto apply it to the resistive layer to re-establish contact. The headset should then function without issue.

If the headset continues to work poorly after lubrication, then the regulator must be replaced with a new one.

Thus, in most cases, before you run and buy a new headset, you can do it yourself. This requires a thin tip soldering iron and skills in handling it.

After the presentation of the new iPhone, specialists from the iFixit website, in anticipation of new devices from Apple, decided to warm up on EarPods. The novelty was disassembled into small parts and thoroughly examined for functionality and design features.

It turns out Apple engineers had to spend 3 years to create this miracle. The primary goal was to make the headphones stronger and more reliable than the predecessor model, and then the sound quality was tackled. They succeeded. The new model has become more resistant to moisture and mechanical damage.

The cable that enters the remote control from both sides has been protected from kinks. The circuitry of the remote control itself has become more complex, and also better protected from moisture ingress.

Inside the disassembled earpiece, you will not see anything remarkable - a permanent magnet, a membrane and a voice coil. If you do not pay attention to the new non-standard shape of EarPods, then we have absolutely ordinary headphones, without any technological and innovative delights.

A noticeable change was the rejection of the plastic membrane in favor of the paper one.Perhaps it is because of this that the mid and high frequencies sound better in the headphones. In addition, as practice shows, a paper membrane is more resistant to tearing than a plastic one.

In conclusion, we can say that the new EarPods will last you longer than the old headphones, and as for the quality of music, it will not please true music lovers at all.

Autumn has come, dear readers, Apple is releasing new products. This means that specialists iFixit It's time to blow off the dust from the tools, which has managed to settle on them since the natural destruction of the Retina display from the MacBook Pro. The most interesting is yet to come, but let's say the headphones Earpods went on sale right after the presentation and are ready to go under the knife first.

EarPods Model Number - MD827:

The new remote with three buttons and a microphone (left) looks different from the remote from the previous generation headphones. The wires at the top and bottom are much better protected from kinking.

Looking at the next photo, you will tell that Apple removed the microphone hole in the case of the remote control - and you will be wrong! The point is that the holes in general did not have... The round bars were for informational purposes only - so you know where to talk. It is now replaced by a microphone icon. Saving on matches, Johnny?

It is best to use a pick to open the remote control. An amazingly useful thing when dismantling equipment.

The remote control consists of five components: two plastic covers on the top and bottom, rubber bands with buttons, a flexible board, and an oblong metal plate. Here we see the top cover in the right hand, while everything else, still assembled, is held in the left:

Remote control, rear view. Here is just in the plate (it is needed to stiffen) the hole for the microphone there is.

On the flexible board, in addition to the microphone, one more microcircuit was found. Flamboyant Chipworks believe that this is either an analog-to-digital converter or some kind of volume control device.

Console board (top - dime, 10 cent coin):
• Red - microphone 2F17 045;
• Orange - TI25ASGVI 079.

Compared to the new one, the old one is just a toy. By the way, it is protected from moisture much worse.

With the remote control done, it's time to pick up the scalpel and go directly to the headphones. Earpods glued, there are no latches. If you open at home (why it is better not to do this, read below), then you will need fresh glue to reassemble.

... Modestly. Like most in-ear ("drop") headphones, one EarPod contains a diaphragm, a voice coil, and a magnet.

The membrane - which is very important - is for the first time paper, not plastic. iFixit writes that this will have a positive effect on the low and mid frequencies. Frame? From the inside, he no longer seems somehow super unusual ...

So again: magnet (left), membrane and voice coil (right). And then they are the same, but upside down. On the outside of the acoustic design (around the magnet), a fine mesh is laid right above the symmetrical holes.

This is an important component, because to maintain the required sound quality, the acoustic design must be rigid and, moreover, open so as not to impede the passage of air behind the vibrating membrane.

The mesh was not in the old headphones. From top to bottom: previous generation headphones, headphones from the first iPod and EarPods.

IFixit focuses on durability, and the EarPods are very good at that. But before us is an acoustic device, which, being disassembled and reassembled again, even with great diligence, will never sound as before. Therefore, there will be no marks for "ease of repair". Till will not, because iFixit is just warming up. Very soon, the iPhone 5 will lay on their table, then there will be iPod touch and nano, and then, you see, the iPad mini will arrive in time.

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Good afternoon (optional evening / night).

Today there will be a review of the headphone plug, a banal, unpretentious little thing, but sometimes so necessary.Disassembly as usual, detailed photos are present.

Spare plug. This is the thing that you remember when it breaks on the headphones. And they are always not at hand. Yes, you can always use shrink and hot melt glue, but the feeling of beauty suffers. This plug captivates with its low price, ease of assembly and quality and more or less original appearance of the finished product, which is important.

Specifically, I did not find any reviews for this product. So what a deal!

As usual warning:

All responsibility, namely independent penetration into the body of the finished product with the subsequent violation of its integrity, rests with the person who performed this action.

The plug is simple and straightforward:

The kit comes with a shock-absorbing elastic band, by the way it is really very soft and will absorb bends.

Landing is done with an interference fit, it is advisable to use at least a drop of superglue during installation:

How it would be possible to end the story here, but it's always interesting to look at the results of the work.

In general, my headphones have undergone a lot of changes, the cases have been replaced with old iPods from 2005. This is the most successful case in my opinion, by the way, this case expanded the sound of all hateful Earpods, They started playing in a new way and became more bass.

As you can see from the photo, they have already been repaired, but the completeness of the product suffers anyway, it did not suit me:

Well, let's go, cut off the old plug and remove the shell:

It seems that everything is fine here and a person who has not previously been involved in the repair of such headphones will not suspect a trick, but from their experience of communicating and repairing Apple products, they love tricks and put them in all places, namely RED GREEN The shell also has a microphone cable inside.

This is what the correct photo looks like:

This is how the pinout of the plug looks like:

In general, we collect all the minuses together with the ground wire and solder to GND, the rest are pinned.

We cut the wires and seal:

Before assembling, we check and make sure that everything works. Then we drip a drop of cyanoacrylate and assemble the plug with an interference fit. At this, the repair can be completed.

The plug is very high quality, everything is assembled perfectly. There are no downsides. I highly recommend it, especially for such ridiculous money.

The bottom line is that the headphones have broken, the wires near the plug have loosened, classic.

2 hours trying to figure out the pinout. The article came in handy, but! Nothing is said about the Earpods.

In general, the result below is a picture with a clear pinout.

The whole problem boiled down to the fact that the wires are not 5, but 6. More precisely, the 5th (green-red), so to speak - coaxial, there is a copper core inside it.

I think it will be useful to many. Well, for myself, so as not to forget.

If there was such an article somewhere, I did not find it.

And yes - the management works.

The more wires there are, the thinner they are and the faster they fray. Probably so. This is epl, they love to make money on all sorts of garbage

the headphones really don't break with them, mine is alive from the output of the five

but the charging wires are fucked up, which dies in six months

in theory, one would be enough to the splitter

Then adding and decreasing the volume and play / stop on the remote control would not work for you. Verified personally.

well, this is understandable, but on the connector they still close, so that it could be combined into one contact (from the plug to the splitter for 2 ears)

yes, but this all happens on the control unit, and from it, in fact, 2 contacts go to the phone, the resistance changes on the microphone contacts

I almost freaked out and didn't do it)

How to connect this wire to the earpiece loop?

To the microphone, to the control circuit, and to each speaker has its own "ground" for reasons of noise immunity. Although it would be more useful from the earth wires, made in the form of a braid.

the control does not work according to this scheme!

Once soldered EarPods. It was different for me.

Red-green is microphone ground

If you untwist this red-green one, then there will be a yellow microphone wire inside (as if shielded)

And what is yellow in the photo is some kind of shit without copper inside

In the photo, it is just the inner core of this red-green wire, it turns out. The same as in my diagram, only the microphone contacts are reversed.

Interesting. Just yesterday I re-soldered my own, and so the question arose. Did you solder it back to your own plug? If so, how did you so neatly remove this plastic crap from it, with which the plug is covered?

added in the comments, plastic can be removed well with side cutters

Oooh thank you friend. The controls and microphone did not work for me because of this copper wire. For half a year I listened like that until my son unscrewed the plug (again). Damn, now have new earpods)

Thank you so much dude, really helped out with the scheme. fucked up with these headphones already. in the end everything works, buttons too.

Listen, are you three wires (grounding, if I'm not mistaken) that are soldered to the second division on the right, soldered to each other? I have now soldered the headphones according to your picture, the sound works fine, the microphone also works, but the buttons on the headset do not work.

UPD Everything, I understood, thanks to this picture. I soldered all 3 wires, including the micro, to the third division, and here we need micro only here, and those 2 to the fourth are obtained

They asked what was under the body of their own plug. The plastic can be cut well with side cutters.

hello) one of the contact strips on my headphones broke, from this the sound, as I understand it, became quieter in the headset. Am I correct in saying these are contact strips, those that are three white stripes on the connector?

and who can suggest the technology of making jacks?

it feels like the details of the jack are turning. I looked for an answer in the net.

You just take more solder on the soldering iron, so that there is a drop, you dip the wires in soldering acid or melted rosin, and you stick the wire into a drop of solder, and after 5 seconds the varnish on the wires will start to melt, and it will just come out from under the solder, and the wire is tinned, like for me the simplest and most effective method.

You drip rosin onto a cardboard or piece of wood, heat a piece of solder in it, and a soldering iron heated to 380-400 degrees (if the soldering iron is without heat stabilization, then even better). You immerse a varnished wire in this mixture and begin to drive it with a heated sting, carrying the solder along the wire. The varnish burns out, and the copper base does not have time to oxidize strongly from heat. The magic will work and the spell of handshaking will fall from you.

It was also on some headphones. Usually yes, the varnish melts. But sometimes you still need to clean up with a knife

you simply attach the wires from the headphones to the rosin and press it with a hot sting, and then into the solder until the rosin turns black and then it will normally tint

Maybe a sting in the dirty shit?

Well, since we are talking about soldering the plugs to the headphones, is it difficult to solder a new one bought in a spare parts store to the torn wire to them? And then there is absolutely no money for new ones, but there is no sense to take cheap ones, I’ll only transfer money, but it’s commonplace to listen to something like before going to bed, but I only have ones that I wear ON my ears, I already gave these to my sister, she broke them, well, more precisely the wire came off, I had to ask my father to solder, because the skills I got from two pairs at the university would only be enough to solder two wires together)

How to fix Apple iPhone headphones

How to unsolder the iPhone headphone cord

When the gap has widened enough, you can begin to separate the cover from the body. These parts are glued together.

Sometimes the diaphragm of the speaker sticks to the cover, and the magnet and all the others stick to the inner cavity of the earphone, then there is a risk of tearing off the diaphragm and breaking the coil wires, after which the speaker actually becomes unusable for repair. Therefore, everything should be done slowly and carefully, without sudden movements. When the lid is completely detached, you can unsolder the speaker and put it aside together with the lid, I advise you to put them in a separate bag or box, and also mark the positive contact of each speaker (green and red).

Once the speakers are separated and securely packed, you can continue to take the headphones apart, there are still many difficult steps ahead. As you can see, in the headphone case, in addition to the wire and the speaker, there is also a plastic sleeve, which is responsible for fixing the wire and at the same time creates the acoustic design of the speaker.

There are 2 grooves in the sleeve for exhausting compressed air. The first leads to a hole in the back of the case (next to the wire), the second leads to the hole through which the wire is inserted into the case. This part is firmly glued to the back of the case, which often causes problems with its disassembly, since the plastic from which the EarPods are made is very soft and flexible. It is usually sufficient to simply lift the sleeve with a screwdriver by inserting the slot into the larger slot.

We mark the left and right bushings and cut off the parts of the wire that are pulled through them, and remove the wire with the capsule, we no longer need it. Also label the left and right capsules to avoid confusion (the right earpiece is the one on which the microphone hangs, as well as the red markings of the wires that are soldered to the speaker). After that we push a new wire into the capsules.

We put aside the wire with the capsules for now, and move on to the retaining bushings. Do not pull the wire out of them, since it was molded at the factory in the manufacture of these clips. Therefore, you will have to drill a hole in each retainer, push the wire there, and fix it. Drill 1.2 is suitable. 1.5 mm. I used a 1 mm drill, since I didn't have 1.5 mm at hand, after drilling the hole I expanded the hole with a diamond-coated nozzle, 1.5 mm in diameter. 1.8 mm.

Having passed the wire through the clips, remove about 2 cm of insulation at the ends, and glue the wire into the bushings using cyanoacrylate glue.It is advisable to use high-quality glue, gel-based, not cheap. After the glue has dried, glue the capsule fuses in the same way.

Now you can carry out the final steps - we solder the speakers (do not forget about the polarity and flux! :)), and glue the caps to the capsules. Of course, we first remove the remnants of the old glue.

As you can see, everything is ready, this path has been passed, and the new wire clearly refreshed the look of the headphones 🙂 If you use the correct cable, all functions will work as before the replacement: microphone, pause / answer button for volume control.

Replace Apple Earpods Wire not so easy, but the result is definitely worth the work!

There are several different ways to fix broken headphones with your own hands at home. and in some cases, even without having any tools at hand (for example, repairing broken wires without a soldering iron). In this article, we will briefly consider all the main options for headphone breakdowns and how to repair them (a more detailed repair with a soldering iron is described in the article "How to properly solder headphones").

Is it possible to fix the headphones at home? In 99% of cases it is possible. (1% defective membrane, "the speaker itself", but this is very rare)
And if possible, how to repair them? There are many methods, it all depends on the breakdown. The most common are broken wires. The simplest and most obvious solution is soldering. But there are other solutions as well.
Where can I get my headphones repaired? Broken headphones can be repaired at any service center.
How much does it cost to fix headphones? In adequate service centers from $ 2-20.
Which is better: home renovation or service center? If you didn’t hold a soldering iron in your hands, you don’t have one, you don’t want to waste time and are afraid of the chance to ruin everything, then it’s better to take it to a service station. It is inexpensive and usually fast. If everything is exactly the opposite, there is a soldering iron, you can do everything and want to 😎, but of course it is worth repairing at home and with your own hands, this is also fast and free! And our article will help you make everything even faster.

So, if your favorite headphones suddenly stopped working, this is not a reason to throw them away and immediately run to the store.

Determine the cause of the breakdown

Before you start repairing headphones, you need to identify the place and cause of the breakdown. - it can be the earphone itself, including the speaker, it can be a plug, a connector in the device, or the cable itself.

After you have found the place of breakdown, you can start repairing the headphones.... More detailed instructions for each case can be found in the links just above.

You can call the contacts both on the plug and directly on the wire itself. For this:

Set the dialing mode on the multimeter.
Attach one probe to the contact on the plug responsible for the ground (we examined the device of different types of plugs here in more detail), and alternately apply the other to the remaining contacts and monitor the multimeter readings.
Normally, the resistance on each of the headphones should be about 30-35 ohms (depending on the cable). If the multimeter shows 1 on any contact, this means that the resistance is too high, the circuit is broken, in other words, on this wire and you need to look for the break point.

If one earbud does not work

If only one of the headphones does not work for you, then it is much easier to fix it. - you already know which earphone does not work, you do not have to ring all the contacts on the plug. To locate the break, try wiggling the wire around the speaker and around the plug. If the sound still does not appear, then use the method above to determine the location of the wire break in the cable.

How to fix the headphones if one ear does not work?

If the wire breaks near the plug, then read the instructions on how to fix the plug.
If the wire breaks near the earphone, then you will either have to solder the wires at the break (if the break is far from the earphone itself, more on this below), or disassemble the headphones and re-solder the wires on the speaker (how to fix an earpiece, detailed here).

To fix the wire from the headphones, first you need to determine the location of the wire break in the cable... To do this, carefully put on the headphones and, while listening to music, try bending the cable at different angles along its entire length. As soon as the sound in the earphone reappears, fix the section of the cable with your fingers - this is the place where the wire breaks inside the cable.

General repair scheme, if the wire breaks:

Cut the cable where the wire breaks.
Put on the heat shrink tubing (if available, if not, skip this step).
Using a knife, carefully remove the sheathing from the cable. Do not damage the wires!
Peel off the varnish (with a knife or lighter) and tin the wires with a soldering iron (if you will be soldering the wires).
Solder the broken wires (or use the no-solder method from this article). Just do not confuse which wire to solder with!
Check the headphones for functionality.
Drag the heat shrink tubing to the soldering point, heat it with a hair dryer or lighter until it shrinks down to the shape of the wire. If no heat shrink tubing is available, carefully insulate the wire with several layers of electrical tape.

You can read more about how to fix broken wires on your headphones in this article.

The headphone plug itself cannot be repaired, or it is very difficult... The most correct option, if the breakdown is in the plug, completely replace it with a new one (a new plug is not so expensive), or solder the broken wires again to the old plug, having previously disassembled it or cleaned it from the rubber sheath (in case the plug comes off the headphones). When buying a new plug, keep in mind that it must contain exactly the same number of contacts as your headset.... Read more about plug types here.

The general scheme for repairing a plug is something like this:

Cut the wire at a distance of 0.5-1.5 cm from the plug.
We disassemble the plug if it is disassembled. If not, then carefully clean the contacts of the plugs from the protective coating.
We put a heat-shrink tube on the cable (you can do without it, if not). If desired, we also put it on each of the wires.
We clean from the varnish and tin the wires in the cut part of the cable.
We solder the wires to the plug.
We move the heat shrinkage to the place of soldering (where the plug contacts are), heat it with a hairdryer or a lighter until it shrinks to the size of the wire. If there is no heat shrinkage, then we isolate and fix all several layers of electrical tape (not a very reliable method and rather rough).
We put the plug back, if it is prefabricated. If not, then we leave it as it is.

More details on how to solder the wires to the plug are described here.

Fixing a headphone jack or jack or input isn't easy... Problems specifically with the connector, and not the headphones, may be indicated by both the lack of sound in the headphones and incorrect connection / disconnection of the headset to the device. For example, when a headset is connected, the device may not see it, or, on the contrary, after disconnecting the headset, the device may continue to consider it connected, thereby continuing to transmit sound to the headphones, which are no longer in the jack.

Reasons for Login Breakdown maybe two:

The connector is clogged.
To solve this problem, you just need to take a needle, soak it in alcohol, drip a couple of drops of alcohol from the needle into the connector, and then clean the connector - first carefully with a needle, then with a plug from the headphones, sticking it into the connector and pulling it out several times.
The socket itself inside the device has broken.
In this case, only the replacement of the entrance itself will help. To do this, you can take the device to a service center, or watch a detailed video on replacing the connector below.
The reasons are in the OS itself on the phone.

Repairing headphones with a microphone, as well as the reasons for their breakdown, are no different from repairing headphones without a microphone.... The only difference, perhaps, is only in the number of wires in the cable and contacts on the plug (+2 additional wires in the cable for the microphone and +1 contact on the plug), which you need to know where to solder. You also need to have an idea of how the microphone and remote control work on the cable in the headset.

You can find out more about the repair of headphones with a microphone in the video below.

The repair scheme is the same as for regular headphones:

Identifying the location of the wire break.
Repair (soldering wires to the plug, speaker or re-soldering wires at the break, depending on the cause of the breakdown of the headphones).

If the problem is not in the contacts, but in the speaker itself, then the driver cannot be restored. If your membrane and any other elements inside the driver are torn, you have 2 options: buy new headphones and go to the service center, and then buy new headphones (if you're not lucky).

Fixing a beat headphone is no different than fixing any other headphone. You can find a video and instructions on how to disassemble the headphones bits here.

Repairing headphones for a computer is no different from repairing regular headphones with a microphone. If your gaming headphones have a USB plug and it is he who breaks, then it is better to take them to the server center.

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