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Good day to all. There is such a beast - Neptune 23, was bought after the capital. It worked amazingly for two seasons, but not knowing the correct operation led to unstable operation and laxity of the motor.
The very culprit of such a consequence
The motor served faithfully, and now the moment has come to reciprocate.
I decided to make a major overhaul of the CAM. That is, with your own hands. In fact, I know how to unscrew the candles, replace the TLM and put a new key, this is where my knowledge ends
arthoor Jan 29, 2004
Welcome Arthur. Yes, the topic is really important. There have been publications on this topic in C&L, they are in the first stage for digitization. Here is a list of them. 86 Efremov Yu.S., Mukhin Yu.N., Sinilshchikov B.E. Repair of the outboard motor "Neptune-23". With. 68-72, 3 ill. Malfunctions of the cooling system and their consequences. Assessment of wear of parts of the cylinder-piston group and connecting rod-crank mechanism. Engine disassembly techniques. Selection of pistons and cylinders. Repair of the crankshaft and its bearings. Checking the bearings and gears of the gearbox, determining the optimal meshing clearance.
114 Vodar A.A. Your motor "Neptune-23" (advice for beginners).
And almost all articles are interesting to one degree or another, there are very few repetitive ones. So I ask for a little patience.
I attach the list of articles from collections from no. 28 to no. 117. There is a graph of value, I ask you to download and put a value on the 5th scale, and then send it to me by email, I will see who is interested in what and, first of all, we will digitize these articles and the rest as far as possible.
Video (click to play).
Greetings Arthur. The topic you have created is very good and really relevant, the only one for some reason, I saw its development a little different. How does a “beginner” differ from a “professional”? A beginner has a minimum of knowledge and experience on the topic, in contrast to a professional who, based on his knowledge and experience, can recommend something, etc.
For example, you gave a link to candles. For example, I know which thread with which pitch, the length of the thread, which washer is needed, which glow number, etc. on the basis of that table, having thought about it, I can choose the desired candle. For a beginner, it will look like a mockery, and if he does not hesitate, then I am more than sure that his next question will be - how to choose the right candle, which one is better, etc. Moreover, a correctly selected candle does not guarantee good and stable performance, if it were so, then there would not have been so many candle manufacturers and such a huge assortment. In this case, if you have experience in operating some specific candles from this manufacturer, then it is better to write like this. I have operated such and such candles for such and such a period, no / glow ignition has been detected, they do not / work stably at idle, in comparison with such and such, the following advantages, non-flaws, recommendations have been revealed. This is what I understand concrete help to a beginner.
The links are very good and really useful, for those who are interested in it and who are ready to delve into what is written there in those articles, as far as possible, I will also replenish this topic.
Therefore, I suggest: 1. For beginners, ask specific questions here. 2. For those who know - give a specific answer here. 3. As additional information and, if necessary, give a link somewhere.
I think it will be much more human.
PS: Arthur, we will transfer your links to a separate topic for now, and we will simply post them on the club's website, in the links section.
arthoor 02 Feb 2004
I started this topic in anticipation of the long-awaited site and remembering the search for information after purchasing the motor. There is no need for everyone to browse the web in search of the same information. But this is lyrics and repetition. The link from the motorboat was removed in vain, it connects outboard motors and motorcycles (in the sense of carburetors) and the picture is colorful. 2 Yuri which candles did you use before tuning, and which Boshevskie candles do you use now? And what kind of carb do you have K68i or K68d? And how does the corrector work (suction among the people), how did you defeat the cable traction on the corrector?
2 Arthur. By candlelight - I've tried a lot. On contact ignition (MH-1 without alterations) SI-12RT, ok. PAL-14-7ZR are excellent candles for contact, despite the fact that the candles are already two decades old and the electrodes are almost completely worn out - there are two oiled in the spare parts. A-17DV - good, operated even in racing mode (8000-9000 rpm). In my opinion, unstable blanks. When operating them with commutator ignition, 4 pieces flew into the trash can, the reasons - the claps from the carba, the dips at idle, most likely a poor-quality insulator pierced and they sewed inside themselves. Now Bosh WR-78G Super FOUR electrode spark plugs, would recommend for commutator in extreme cases electronic ignition, are especially good when working on a track. I want to try the plasmaphore - given the combustion chamber of Neptune in the form of a “jacquey hat” and the concentration of the entire working mixture in one place, I can assume a good result when working with such candles, since a powerful directed plasma flow will simultaneously ignite almost the entire mixture, but such candles are only for commutator.
As for karba - I personally promise to lay out as soon as possible all the information on K36, K62, K65 and K68, including instructions for adjusting and tuning.
At the moment there is K68D - in great detail and I wrote a lot about this in the “Discussion of the article”, and tests etc. please read.
Arthur, have you read my article or not? There everything is described how I “sorted out” the suction, in a nutshell - with the help of a cable in the bowden one end for the suction, the other for the exhaust relay in the starter. It opens only at the moment of start-up, and more is not needed, as practice has shown.
Arthur, since if the club forum is located on the territory of the CC, then the CC rules apply to the club forum, and there is a point prohibited 3.17. Discussion of the moderator's actions related to punishing one or another participant and / or removing his posting. All communication on this issue can only go by e-mail. Moreover, I specifically checked - except for the instructions for K65, there is nothing about the neptunes at all.
Yuri, I did not read your article in the magazine due to the absence of the latter. C&Y magazine in the Ukrainian province is in short supply. But I know the content. Everyone has read your posts in the forums. Something that helped. Thank you. Questions arose posed by life itself. Candles SI 12 RT have not been seen in our area for seven years. About carburetors (I mean interchangeability with other mechanisms) you put the last point in your answer. PAL-14-7ZR - who is the manufacturer? We are waiting for the site. Good luck. arthoor
Roman * 02 Mar 2004
I hope to receive from you the most complete answers to these (sometimes funny for you) questions. I think that it will be interesting to many. Thanks in advance to everyone who answered. Sincerely. Novel.
arthoor 03 Mar 2004
2 Novel "Before you finally ditch your engine, read the instructions carefully."
I will put down your numbering, only with answers 1.admissible, but analogue of TAD 17 2. A92 cannot be poured (during normal operation), A76 or 80 3.any, analogs of SI 12 RT 4.Oil must be for 2-stroke gasoline engines 5.I don't know, on Neman2 I use a blue screw 6.read and try to remember the manufacturer's instructions and check the tightening of threaded connections (nuts and bolts) 7 take a tank from Breeze or Whirlwind, or do it yourself 8 not needed 9 is possible, but not necessary 10 practice with switching the reverse on the non-working and then on the working motor. Do not start with “gear engaged”. Do not work dry. Do not place the carburetor in sand, etc. Carefully read the instructions and think with your own head, remembering that you have Neptune 23E, not Yamaha80. Sincerely Arthur
"Nothing lets you learn your engine like a breakdown." from manual “Hitachi B&W KGF”
arthoor 06 Mar 2004
arthoor 13 Mar 2004
TOMORROW TO THE WATER. Yura, if possible, launder new instructions for Neptune 23 for me. The people ask strongly and pitifully. Sincerely Arthur.
P.S. maybe got excited with Poland? PPS JIKOV carb at the bazaar near Kherson give a new one for 25 tanks
Bearings and seals for neptune. The upper and lower bearings of the crankshaft are 305. There are even seals 25x35 * 5 (5 standard height, I did not find any analogs with this height. There are similar 25x35x7. I checked - they fit. Needle on resor 941/20. I forgot which stuffing box but analogous I found, according to catalog 160259130. Next thrust 8204. The next two-row roller seems to have no analogues. Bearings for GV, from the front 3056205, from the rear 303K2, behind it an oil seal according to catalog 160259210. That's all.
Hi Yuri! As for the kvala oil seals (35x25x5), then the oil seals from the HYUNDAI Sonata III are suitable for the front oil seal the balance of the shaft catalog number (original) 21421-33134. One-to-one oil seal. We have it costs about 120 rubles apiece. I'm trying to find the rest. As for the bearings, complete numbers would be desirable (meaning with the accuracy class, etc.) The fact that the qualification costs 305 is understandable and true. It is the full catalog number that interests. Thank you.
1. Is it allowed to change the oil in the gearbox with an imported one and which one? 2. Is it possible to fill in AI-92? 3. What other options for imported candles are suitable for Н23Э? 4. Are there any nuances when operating a motor on imported oil? 5. What screw should be used to operate the motor on the inflatable at minimum and maximum load? 6. What should be done immediately after buying a new motor to ensure its trouble-free operation (the most necessary and feasible at home, ie without the involvement of complex equipment)? 7. What are the options with replacing the standard canister with something more aesthetic, lightweight and convenient (in addition to buying a tank from an imported PLM)? 8. Is it possible (is it necessary) to replace the candle wires with silicone (automobile) and candlesticks with the same automobile ones (or in the standard ones there is some resistance inside)? 9. Is it allowed to glue the hood inside or outside with any materials in order to reduce noise? 10. Your recommendations for dummies in order to warn against the most common mistakes in motor operation!
I would also like to join the discussion of these issues. Further on the points.
Hi Yuri! As for the kvala oil seals (35x25x5), then the oil seals from the HYUNDAI Sonata III are suitable for the front oil seal the balance of the shaft catalog number (original) 21421-33134. One-to-one oil seal. We have it costs about 120 rubles apiece. I'm trying to find the rest. As for the bearings, complete numbers would be desirable (meaning with the accuracy class, etc.) The fact that the qualification costs 305 is understandable and true. It is the full catalog number that interests. Thank you.
Welcome. Please drop a message from your email to the club email (in the signature) - I will send the pages from the catalog. I found bearings and oil seals at a firm specializing exclusively in them. They have about 2500-3000 bearing names and about 1000 oil seals (Switzerland, Taiwan to choose from). So they have 305 bearings of about 15 pieces of different qualities, etc. Oil seals (Switzerland) for about $ 1 each thing.
I found bearings and oil seals at a firm specializing exclusively in them. They have about 2500-3000 bearing names and about 1000 oil seals (Switzerland, Taiwan to choose from). So they have 305 bearings of about 15 pieces of different qualities, etc. Oil seals (Switzerland) for about $ 1 each thing.
Hi Yuri. It is understandable with highly specialized offices, but this option is not very good. at least with us, tk. oil seals of such diameters are available on request. They are certainly cheaper, but not available. If we establish from which common car (s) they are suitable, then they can be searched for in car shops and service stations, thereby ensuring speed and reliability, well, maybe a little to the detriment of cost. As for the bearings, that's cool. We have the most popular 6-305, but as you understand it sucks. Well, we will look for nothing with "mother-of-pearl buttons."
This is not what I wanted to say. Pieces of 15 different varieties - closed open, persistent, etc. Well, the quality seems to be different, I will put 6 of that, it is no longer needed. There is a FAG - but a little expensive for me.
According to the reference book, bearings are (it is lower to higher) 0-6-5-4-2 qualifications. In this case, 6 turns out to be the penultimate one. I want something more. Actually.
the load on the pivot axis may increase, making it harder to turn.
This is understandable. It seems to me that the length of the axle (in the turning part) is insufficient , and since the deadwood motor under load acts as a lever (relative to the axis), i.e. trying to "turn it out" from here and increase the load + the effect of the gyroscope since the screw rotates at a higher speed and because of this, the force vector does not want to change (but this is my guess) Lubrication is not enough, hmmm. It seems to have smeared, I will try to sort it out, I will smear it on a new one, maybe straight.
mezhdurechensk Neptune is working and we are fishing and there are no complaints
tsirul2009 mezhdurechensk, fishing is super, I watched the video the motor smokes
or maybe it’s better? immediately noticed the boat went worse in speed, completely unburned to know
mezhdurechensk When I go far away, I make the mixture richer so that the piston does not burn out. Maybe someone doesn’t like it, well, I use the engine like that and don’t complain. Fishing is not very good, but nature and air are health. How much I catch is not important, the time spent on fishing is important ...
nik_to I was offered Neptune-23 in the village. But there were kind people who warned that the 80th gasoline would soon stop pouring, and Neputny could be thrown into the foundation. Tell me, will they really stop selling the 80th? And is there any way out of this situation?
mezhdurechensk nik_to, turn the ignition and don't bother, ride your health at 92m
Of course have
You remove the cylinder head, give it to the grinder, so that he would remove 0.8mm and a mustache, your Neptune 92nd eats, well, you need to set the ignition timing If you need a grinder, call me for help!
Thanks a lot! I will take it.
mezhdurechensk no Ruslan 0.8 bust and 0.4 tried. For me it is better just to reconfigure the ignition. ...
Greetings dear. I made up my Neptune according to the article from the Motorboat, from there and the data. At 92m, albeit not constantly, but sometimes from the need to roll, nothing happened to him)))
Take a good motor if you bring it to mind yourself. The first tips - change the carburetor to a k68d (jet 300-320 from Buran, there are repair kits), a 2x spark coil from a Gazelle with a 406 engine (not killed))), a gasoline pump from a Taiga snowmobile (preferably domestic, not Chinese, visually differ in that on our bolts with a hex, and on the Chinese screws with slots, the native Vikhrevsky sludge is full - the air sucks constantly), candles or native SI12rt or NGK BR6HS (the gap on the probe needs to be set to 0.45-0.5mm, but not more ), if the ignition is electronic, then it is better to solder like here - ARTICLE Better yet, read - THIS Questions will ask or call)))
In order to extend the life of the engine at least once a year, it needs to be serviced. Practically any repair of a Neptune 23 boat motor does-it-yourself instructions are attached, guided by which the owner can carry out all the maintenance work on his own. However, in the event that the warranty period given by the manufacturer has not expired, you should contact the service center.
Those who decide to carry out the maintenance of the unit on their own will need: screwdrivers, adjustable wrenches, pliers, containers for used oil, user manual.In addition, you will have to stock up on: engine oil, fuel filter, grease, a set of new spark plugs, rags, gear oil. Estimated time of work is approximately three hours. All stages of maintenance should be carried out, buy a 4-stroke boat motor 5 l s, strictly following the instructions.
Experts recommend every time to start using outboard four-stroke motors in Nizhny Novgorod with its visual inspection for defects. Pay particular attention to the condition of the propeller, inspect the entire engine for any lubricant leaks. If dark oily spots are found, contact a mechanic at a service center to eliminate problems with the seals.
To mount the outboard, there is a transom board on the boat itself and two screw clamps. The weight of the motor is held by a sturdy bracket, whirlwind 25 outboard motor repair video. In addition to this function, the bracket is designed to transfer thrust from the propeller to the boat. The boat or dinghy is controlled with the tiller. It happens like this: the axis of the propeller is turned by the tiller at the desired angle in relation to the vessel.
good day ! guys a question about the motor neptune 23. bought a new motor. arrived at the pond and threw it on the cauldron. started running. after a completely burnt-out fuel tank. decided to check for speed (the restrictor in the carburetor was not removed!) the boat accelerated and the forward gear took off! then they threw off the gas. the reverse was not touched. the boat stopped. then they just put on the gas and the boat started sailing again. and so all the time when you twist the gas. what's with the motor? a skiff for a new engine, or do you need adjustment? if it is necessary to regulate, please tell me how! I'm still a beginner in these matters.
Check the safety key in the screw. Most likely cut off from the harsh gas. At low speeds, the half of the key enters the groove and transmits rotation, and at the maximum gas from vibration and load, it again hides in the shaft - the motor runs at full speed, but there is no rotation of the screw
No ! key is ok! checked. I am inclined that the thrust is not adjusted, which transmits movement to the gears in the gearbox. But maybe not.
Yes. She most likely. Tiller control or remote control?
tiller control. the key was cut off at once! we didn’t know that the speed cannot be switched on at high revs! they started the engine, gassed it and did not allow it to completely align with the turnover. and we don’t understand the bubbles go and the boat doesn’t eat !! and then we saw that the propeller doesn’t rotate!. The most regrettable thing is that there were no spare keys with you! I had to find a screw for 6. chop off his hat and grind him against a lying stone so that the bottom length is long. then they inserted it and everything worked out. in length he was a tunic in a tunic! therefore, the key is completely excluded! transmission takes off when the boat reaches maximum and goes smoothly on the water! and on acceleration when the effort is much more nothing jumps out! guys another question: and with the gear engaged, if you press the screw, along the axis, should it have an axial stroke? meaning, I press the screw with my hand and it spring-loaded goes into the gearbox, by about 3-4 mm! Is this the way it should be? FORGIVE BUCKER IF WHAT IS WRONG!
Hello everyone, I decided to capitalize my Neptune 23, so that I will run a foreign car for a couple of seasons later. And together with the capital, I decided to slightly modify the cylinder head, and the channels in the cylinders, in general, I refined everything, I ordered 2p pistons. (of course piston casting, the pistons are not factory-made but cooperative, but there was no choice since the original is almost impossible to find), the pistons were processed from the inside and leveled by weight on electronic scales, leveled by the volume of the combustion chamber in the cylinder head (the difference was 1.5 cubic meters .cm I think this is a lot for a 350 cc motor. Picked up Japanese bearings and seals on the knee shaft. The motor was assembled carefully observing all thermal clearances in cleanliness and, just in case, everything is on the sealant. The motor did not start right away, but after long attempts it started to work and very steadily. I tried electronic ignition, but I did not like it, it starts up normally and at idle it does not hold the load in general, when the reverse is turned on, it stalls immediately. I had to leave the contact on it, it starts easier and does not stall when the reverse is turned on.
It seems to me that the motor is noisy, and twitches (as if intermittently that on the contact that on the electronic ignition only on the electronic one twitches even more), I have never heard how the new Neptune works, I have such a motor in my city and from I can still eat a couple of forces, before the thorough repair it worked much noisier. External reference External reference
Message devis » 21.05.2013 12:05
Message Valery » 21.05.2013 12:25
After running-in, the precision machine will have to work quieter, and added a double dose of oil to gasoline for the duration of the running-in?
I also have a motor running noisily on my motorcycle - it is the motor, not the exhaust, although the mileage is bullshit, but this is a feature of this model.
It is difficult of course to judge without seeing or hearing, but judging by the story - you know a lot. 😎
Simple ways of eliminating "congenital defects" of "Neptune-23", successfully tested in sea conditions, are offered to the readers' attention.
The brass bushing of the impeller of the "Neptune" cooling pump has a completely smooth surface, to which rubber is vulcanized during the manufacturing process. As a result, the adhesion forces are insufficient and in the process of operation the rubber comes off from the brass bushing, which leads to a sudden failure of the cooling system. The engine overheats, and if not immediately shut off, the pistons will jam in the cylinders due to expansion. Seizure of pistons leads to rolling and breakage of piston rings, enveloping of aluminum on the cylinder mirror, and to scuffing of cylinders. Even if the motor is not completely disabled, its power will inevitably drop. Therefore, it is imperative to ensure reliable, uninterrupted cooling.
It is unclear why the plant went to such a strange simplification of the design, because before the "Neptuns", the "Moscow" motor was produced on "Red October", the brass hub of the impeller was ribbed, which ensured reliable adhesion to rubber.
The revision of the impeller shown in the drawing has proven itself well. In the indicated places of the impeller, three holes with a diameter of 3.5 mm are drilled, in which the M4 thread is cut. Screws with glue washers are screwed into these holes. The glue is suitable for epoxy or BF-2, BF-4. Various kinds of "rubber" adhesives (torque, 88N) do not provide the required strength. It is not recommended to use cyacrine “superglue”, as you may not have time to tighten the screws before it “seizes” and damage the impeller. After screwing in, the ends of the screws protruding inside the bore of the bushing are grinded flush with a round file.
The modified impeller has been working very reliably for many years. A pump with such an impeller does not suddenly fail. Only with normal wear and tear does the engine temperature gradually rise and long before the onset of a dangerous moment, the worn impeller can be replaced with a new one during routine maintenance.
Another design flaw of "Neptune-23" is the poor protection of the lower crankshaft trunnion and sealing cuffs from the ingress of a mixture of exhaust gases and hot water drained from the cooling system into the deadwood cavity. The crankshaft trunnion corrodes and with a rusty surface quickly abrades rubber seals, which, moreover, “tan” from exposure to hot gases and water. As a result, the lower cavity of the crankcase loses its tightness, water enters the crankcase of the lower cylinder, starting sharply worsens, power drops, corrodes and the lower main bearing becomes unusable. These harmful processes are especially fast when used in sea water.True, since the late 70s, the plant has been installing a protective aluminum washer that closes the oil seals from the direct effect of water and gases, but this measure seems to be insufficient, especially for marine operating conditions.
A well-proven method of protecting the stuffing box is proposed. A special glass 5 is machined, the crankshaft journal 7 is machined, and a stainless steel sleeve 6 is pressed onto it. The outer surface of the bushing 6 should be polished to a mirror finish in order to minimize the wear of the stuffing box. In the lower half of the crankcase, a thread M56x1.5 is cut to install a special glass 5. A glass 5 is screwed into the hole in the crankcase, after which the engine is assembled and installed on the deadwood.
This method provides reliable crankcase sealing, but requires turning work. It is possible to protect the lower stuffing box from gases and water in another way, for example, by installing a vertical separator in the sternwood
Simple ways of eliminating "congenital defects" of "Neptune-23", successfully tested in sea conditions, are offered to the readers' attention.
The brass bushing of the impeller of the "Neptune" cooling pump has a completely smooth surface, to which rubber is vulcanized during the manufacturing process. As a result, the adhesion forces are insufficient and in the process of operation the rubber comes off from the brass bushing, which leads to a sudden failure of the cooling system. The engine overheats, and if not immediately shut off, the pistons will jam in the cylinders due to expansion. Seizure of pistons leads to rolling and breakage of piston rings, enveloping of aluminum on the cylinder mirror, and to scuffing of cylinders. Even if the motor is not completely disabled, its power will inevitably drop. Therefore, it is imperative to ensure reliable, uninterrupted cooling.
It is unclear why the plant went to such a strange simplification of the design, because before the "Neptuns", the "Moscow" motor was produced on "Red October", the brass hub of the impeller was ribbed, which ensured reliable adhesion to rubber.
The revision of the impeller shown in the drawing has proven itself well. In the indicated places of the impeller, three holes with a diameter of 3.5 mm are drilled, in which the M4 thread is cut. Screws with glue washers are screwed into these holes. The glue is suitable for epoxy or BF-2, BF-4. Various kinds of "rubber" adhesives (torque, 88N) do not provide the required strength. It is not recommended to use cyacrine “superglue”, as you may not have time to tighten the screws before it “seizes” and damage the impeller. After screwing in, the ends of the screws protruding inside the bore of the bushing are grinded flush with a round file.
The modified impeller has been working very reliably for many years. A pump with such an impeller does not suddenly fail. Only with normal wear and tear does the engine temperature gradually rise and long before the onset of a dangerous moment, the worn impeller can be replaced with a new one during routine maintenance.
Another design flaw of "Neptune-23" is the poor protection of the lower crankshaft trunnion and sealing cuffs from the ingress of a mixture of exhaust gases and hot water drained from the cooling system into the deadwood cavity. The crankshaft trunnion corrodes and with a rusty surface quickly abrades rubber seals, which, moreover, “tan” from exposure to hot gases and water. As a result, the lower cavity of the crankcase loses its tightness, water enters the crankcase of the lower cylinder, starting sharply worsens, power drops, corrodes and the lower main bearing becomes unusable. These harmful processes are especially fast when used in sea water. True, since the late 70s, the plant has been installing a protective aluminum washer that closes the oil seals from the direct effect of water and gases, but this measure seems to be insufficient, especially for marine operating conditions.
A well-proven method of protecting the stuffing box is proposed. A special glass 5 is machined, the crankshaft journal 7 is machined, and a stainless steel sleeve 6 is pressed onto it. The outer surface of the bushing 6 should be polished to a mirror finish in order to minimize the wear of the stuffing box. In the lower half of the crankcase, a thread M56x1.5 is cut to install a special glass 5. A glass 5 is screwed into the hole in the crankcase, after which the engine is assembled and installed on the deadwood.
This method provides reliable crankcase sealing, but requires turning work. It is possible to protect the lower stuffing box from gases and water in another way, for example, by installing a vertical separator in the sternwood
Uri »Apr 12, 2008 20:54
Uri »12 Apr 2008 21:00
Uri Apr 12, 2008 09:15 PM
Uri Apr 12, 2008 10:09 pm
Uri Apr 12, 2008 10:14 pm
Uri Apr 12, 2008 10:22 pm
Uri Apr 12, 2008 11:11 pm
novel Apr 13, 2008 09:18 am
Uri Apr 14, 2008 00:12
Georges »04 May 2008 10:08
2.jpg ”/> Knives made of stainless steel and heated. Fastened with self-tapping screws directly into the damper on epoxy. I sharpened the leading edge of the propeller blades. And this meat grinder has never wound anything on itself. The picture is not so hot, but I think it's clear.
Boris »04 May 2008 11:10
Georges »20 May 2008 11:50
Nicolas May 20, 2008 12:01 pm
Irkutsk, 118/1, "Sports goods" Car market on chestnut
Installation of the kit does not require skills and is available to any motorboat. The set coil must be installed very carefully.
It is often difficult to put on a new one after removing old coils. Usually in such cases there is a thickening at the end of the core. You can get rid of the thickening with a few light hammer blows along the edge of the core.
It is important to make the coil easy to don. To do this, use an old coil.
XI would like to draw your attention to the large difference in core sizes on the under-flywheel part of the Magdino MB-2, MV-1 and MN-1. The cores, as seen in the photo, can vary greatly in the length of the end parts. With a large gap between the core and the shoes of the magnets, the spark can weaken to the point of complete absence. MN-1 cores are usually (not necessarily) shorter than MB-1 and MB-2 cores.
At the same time, the possibility of touching the cores of the coils to the shoes of the flywheel magnets must not be allowed. This will quickly lead to the inoperability of the system - the core heats up during friction and heats up the coil from the inside. For MN-1 Surf, the SPE correction is not required. For MH-1 Neptune. Remove the ignition coils from the core. Remove contacts and capacitors. Install the coils from the kit in place, as in the photo. Two equivalent installation options.
Correction of POP The contact flywheel gives an earlier sparking point than is required. You can fix the panel rigidly by removing the drive parts of the magneto base. To do this, we will drill a hole in the panel in the place as in the photo (under the generator coils). Then we unscrew the front bolt of the upper crankshaft oil seal cover and screw it back through the hole in the panel. then we put the generator coils (if any). With such a solution, there will be a constant maximum SPL.
To save the modified POP it will be necessary to "delay" the panel. For example, an option with the installation of a UOZ matching plate. We make the plate itself from any suitable material. for example aluminum with a thickness of 1 mm.
Screw to the panel.
With emery or in another way, make a cut for the pusher of the panel rotation drive.
Screw the panel rotation rocker to the plate.
Simplified longitudinal section of the "Neptune-23" motor with designation of structural differences from the first "Neptune" model and successful design solutions, as well as desirable improvements to the motor in the future.
Since until now we have not presented the 23-strong "Neptune" to our readers, we will tell you more about it.
Let's start with the power head. It is a two-cylinder two-stroke engine with a total displacement of 346 cm3, a cylinder bore of 61.75 mm and a piston stroke of 58 mm.Blowing - three-channel crank-chamber. The control of the intake of the combustible mixture is carried out by disc spools (separately for the upper and lower cylinders), rotating together with the crankshaft and pressing with special springs to the middle part of the crankcase, which has holes for the mixture to flow from the carburetor. The contact surface of the middle support with the spools is chrome-plated, which practically eliminates its wear and the need to replace an expensive crankcase. (The spool is much easier to replace, but it practically wears out slowly, since usually the main cause of wear is dust, and there is little dust above the water.)
The engine crankshaft is one-piece with non-removable connecting rods. It is installed on sinfully bearings - upper and lower (? 305) and a special middle roller, put on the crankshaft when assembling it.
The crankcases are sealed in connection with each other with a labyrinth seal mounted in the roller bearing of the middle support, and against the atmosphere - with rubber spring-loaded cuffs (one on the upper and two on the lower crankcases).
The cylinder block is removable; it is attached to the crankcase with six short pins passing through the block flange. The block is closed by a removable head, which forms the combustion chamber of the cylinders. The head is attached to the block with 11 pins. In turn, the head has a removable cooling cover; a drain hole is made at the bottom of the head to control the water supply to the engine cooling jacket.
In front, on the middle part of the crankcase, a K36L carburetor with a diffuser with a diameter of 24 mm is installed. On the lower crankcase there is a fuel pump for supplying fuel from a separate tank.
On a special cover of the upper crankcase, which covers the upper main bearing and at the same time serves as a socket for installing the upper collar, an MN-1 magdino is fixed, which operates on external high-voltage TLM transformers. This Magdino has proven itself well in operation and is considered one of the most reliable ignition units in our country; it is not without reason that it is used both on "Vikhr-M" and on "Privet". Magdino has not only primary ignition coils, but also generator coils that allow powering the on-board electrical network with a total power of 30-40W consumers or, having made a simple rectifier, obtain a constant current of 3A to charge a battery with a voltage of 12V.
A flywheel is put on the cone of the upper journal of the crankshaft, which has a disc on top with protrusions for abutting the manual starter dogs. A starter with a self-retracting cord does not differ in design from the well-known starter used by water motors, which was used in Moscow, but it has a small roller at the cord outlet, due to which the cord is almost not frayed.
That, perhaps, is all about the design of the power head "Neptune-23". The head is fastened to the stern tube with 6 screws, and it can be removed without disturbing the adjustment of other motor units: it is enough to unscrew only these 6 screws and disconnect the wires from the plug connector on the pallet to the terminal block.
By the way, we must also mention the peculiarities of the pallet itself: it is made with a connector in the vertical plane; removing the rear part of it, you can remove the cylinder head, for example, for cleaning carbon deposits (and having adapted - and the cylinders for inspection or replacement of pistons and rings), without removing the entire engine from the stern tube. This represents a known convenience in operating the motor.
Pay attention to the details of fastening the stern tube to the clamp and to the vertical holder of the swivel. There is a special clamping screw in the swivel holder for adjusting the force of rotation of the motor around the vertical axis. And if you look from the front at the lower part of the cage attachment to the stern tube, you can see the displacement of the vertical axis of the tube from the vertical axis of the stern tube by about 3 °. This is done in order to compensate for the hydro-reactive moment from the propeller, which tends to turn the motor.Both the clamping screw and the axle offset are especially important when steering a tiller: the moment on the tiller is not felt at all.
It would seem that an insignificant detail - the motor latch in the unfolded position. When the engine is tilted, it works automatically and quite reliably holds it in this “upper” position, which is very convenient, for example, for replacing a sheared propeller key.
A spacer is attached to the bottom of the stern tube together with the gearbox housing. The design of the gearbox is conventional (accepted for most motors with forward and reverse travel and neutral), with driven gears located on the propeller shaft. The only difference is in the details of the movement of the switching clutch and some other particular design solutions. The main thing that is important to note is the use of rolling bearings in all units of the gearbox - on the vertical shaft (it is one-piece and enters at one end into the splines of the drive gear of the gearbox, the other into the splines of the lower journal of the crankshaft), on the small drive gear, on the propeller shaft. Bronze bushings are left only in a relatively lightly loaded place - in the hubs of the driven gears. Along with the use of reliable spring-loaded cuffs at the exit of the shafts from the gearbox, this contributes to its good sealing.
Sometimes, for some reason, it is not possible to change the oil in the gearbox after the service life established by the instructions; often this comes to hand only at the end of the season, that is, after 100-150 running hours (which, of course, cannot be recommended at all!), but the Neptune-23 reducer can withstand such a violation of the regime. At the factory stand, an experiment was performed to test the survivability of the gearbox: instead of oil, they filled it with water and “drove” the motor under full load. The gearbox failed after 50 hours. During the control examination, it was found that only the thrust bearing of the pinion gear had collapsed. All other parts were quite suitable for further use. (Naturally, it is not worth doing such experiments on your motor, but in exceptional cases such an opportunity may come in handy.)
The cooling system pump is a unit that (like, for example, Magdino) requires periodic preventive inspection, since if it fails, an engine accident is almost inevitable. According to the principle of operation, the pump on "Neptune" does not differ from the pumps used on most of our motors, but there is a difference in design. A rotary volumetric pump with a rubber impeller is used, operating due to deaxiality - displacement of the impeller rotation axis relative to the pump housing axis. This pump is quite reliable, but this does not in any way eliminate the need to monitor its condition. This procedure on "Neptune-23" is, perhaps, easier than on most other motors. The spacer with a gearbox and a pump fixed on its upper flange is removed from the deadwood, for which it is enough to unscrew the 4 fastening screws and disconnect (through the hatch in the deadwood) the reversing rod. Replacing the spacer is also straightforward as there is a cone catcher for the cooling tube at the pump outlet to facilitate this operation.
Weight, fuel consumption and specific characteristics of “Neptune-23” in comparison with previous models are shown in the table given in the report.
Video (click to play).
0 main indicators of the three models of the motor "Neptune"