Do-it-yourself repair of a non-separable tank of a washing machine

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a non-separable tank of a washing machine from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Over time, all sorts of breakdowns occur with washing machines, the frequency of such breakdowns directly depends on the manufacturer.

This is the name that can be used to describe an element such as a bearing. It is the replacement of the tank bearing in the washing machine that is most often performed and is a procedure that quite often has to be carried out by washing machine repair shops.

Basically, bearing failure occurs due to excessive overloading of washing machines. It happens that it is necessary to wash linen designed for loading two washing machines, but due to a lack of time or simply because we do not want to carry out two washes, we load the machine, in simple terms, to the limit, in the hope that it will cope.

And she copes once, twice, but nothing lasts forever and in the end, the bearings do not withstand and crumble. This can be heard by the characteristic creak, and subsequently the grinding that can be heard from the washing machine.

How to replace a bearing in a washing machine with a non-separable tank and a collapsible one will be discussed in this article. To replace the tank, we need the following tools:

But first you need to stock up on spare parts, with the help of which the failed mechanisms will be replaced.

What you need to replace bearings:

stuffing box;
l bearing two;
a gasket installed between the drum halves;
silicone sealant.

The tank in the Ariston washing machine is being replaced, as well as the bearings.

During the performance of all work related to the repair of washing machines, the electricity should be disconnected from them, as well as all communications, such as water supply and drainage.

Video (click to play).

remove the drain pipe, for this you need to unscrew the clamp tension screw;
remove the drive belt;

dismantle the engine, while unscrewing the fastening screws;
we remove the wires suitable for the heating element and the tank;
unscrew the screws securing the top cover, and then remove it;
remove the washing control panel, having previously unscrewed the bolts holding it;
we remove the tension spring, for this we find it and use a screwdriver to hook it up and very carefully remove it, having previously unscrewed the clamp;
remove the lock;
using a screwdriver, unscrew and separate the basement panel, then unscrew the front panel and remove it;
remove the lower counterweight after unscrewing the screws of its fastening;
remove the clamp;
remove the temperature sensor;
we remove the suspension system;
remove the tank and disassemble it.

To replace the tank or bearings in washing machines of the Indesit family, you must perform the following steps:

l unscrew the fastening bolts located on the back wall and remove the top cover;

after that, we unscrew the bolts securing the rear wall and remove it;
remove the belt from the pulley and from the engine of the machine;
using a wooden hammer handle or using a wooden block, wedge the pulley and unscrew the bolt that secures it, and then remove the pulley;
we dismantle the counterweight together with the spacer frame, preventing the approach to the clamp;
we disconnect the wires suitable for the heating element;
we disconnect the clamp and remove it, while it is necessary to be careful not to damage the wire of the temperature sensor;
take out the tank from the washing machine.

After that, we begin parsing the bearings from the tank of the machine, the process is laborious, so you need to be patient:

unscrew the pulley;
unscrew the bolts securing the tank cover;
halving the tank into two parts, take out the metal tank;
we clean the tank from dirt and scale.

We remove the oil seal and take out the bearings, for this you need to have a special puller (preferably), if there is no such puller at hand, and it makes no sense to buy, then we press out the bearings in the old old-fashioned way, using a hammer and a screwdriver, and it is necessary to carefully remove the puller. so as not to damage the place where they are installed.

If the bearing seat is damaged, then we will have to make very expensive repairs in a repair shop, so be careful.

After we managed to take out the first bearing, we proceed to the excavation of the second one, it should go better, due to the fact that the first one has already broken through the "furrow".

With both bearings removed, carefully inspect the tank and seat for chips, cracks, and other defects.

If everything is fine, we begin the process of reinstalling and assembling the washing machine, for this:

we make abundant lubrication of the bearing seat;
we insert the first bearing into place, using a bar and a hammer, lightly tapping on different edges of the bearing to avoid misalignment of the bearing and its jamming;
install the second bearing in the same way as the first;
install the oil seal installation;
we take a new gasket and insert it between the halves of the tank;
we apply a sealant, in our case, a silicone sealant and fasten both halves by bolting it.

We install the assembled drum with new bearings back into the washing machine, while repeating the operations identical to the operations when disassembling the drum only in reverse order.

After the machine is assembled, it is necessary to connect all communications, such as: cold water supply, connection to the sewer drain and power supply. Now we put the program on the typewriter and check if everything is done correctly, the typewriter is working well.

It is possible for washing machines in which it is not possible to do it yourself in a non-separable washing machine tank with a bearing and a crosspiece due to the fact that in this case you have to cut and re-solder them.

A washing machine is no longer a rarity and is a must-have for every home.

Its breakdown is always a nuisance, so there is a desire to quickly return the washing unit to work.

The washing machine tank is its main and main part.

In this article, we will look at how to fix the problem with the washing machine tub.

It is in the tank that the moving parts of the washing equipment and the drum are located, including.

The tub washes the laundry, despite the fact that it only interacts directly with the walls of the drum.

It is into the tank that water enters and it seems that such a durable, but at the same time, seemingly not performing the main work mechanism cannot break.

However, there is something in the tank to fail. Repairing a washing machine tank is a rather laborious work and, in order not to redo it, you will have to work conscientiously.

If you need to get to the heart of the car, you will have to disassemble it completely, then take out the tank and disassemble it too. The last stage of work after repairing the washing machine tank – this assembly is in reverse order.

Tanks can be made from:

enameled,
stainless steel and
plastic.

Today it is rare to find an enamelled tank.

The stainless steel tank is reliable and can serve for decades, but its production is quite costly. Therefore, this type is found in expensive models.

The plastic tank is found in most modern typewriters. They are made simply, weigh a little, heat water quickly.

What can break in the tank?

Bearings... A very inexpensive part, but it will take a lot of time and effort to replace it, risking serious damage to the shaft, pin and other parts.The bearings are located in the tank and belong to the moving elements.
Drain hole at the tank... Rather, a drain valve that usually breaks or clogs and requires cleaning.
Shaft... Usually a shaft problem is the result of an unrepaired bearing failure.
Tank walls... Also, the consequences of improper operation of bearings and shock absorbers, which lead to deformation of the tank walls under the influence of the centrifugal force of the drum.

Depending on the model of the washing machine, the tank may be:

non-separable,
collapsible.

Dismantling the tank requires a careful and painstaking approach.

Repairing a non-separable tank of a washing machine is much more difficult.

After the work done, the machine is assembled in the reverse order.

How to glue the washing machine tank after repair?

The sawn parts of the tank are lubricated with sealant and connected.

Cold welding can be used.

Bolts are inserted into the drilled holes and fixed with nuts.

The size of the bolts will depend on what diameter you have drilled the holes.

First of all, you need to analyze the nature of the damage and the scale of the work.

If the tank is plastic, it may be cracked and causing the water to leak.

We immediately dismiss the option with the crack welded, because this is a conditional repair of washing tanks, which will not last long.

The best option is to replace it with a new tank. For the price, a metal tank is more expensive than a plastic one.

If we consider the possibility of repairing a stainless steel tank, then the option using welding is quite justified. Of course, it is better to trust an experienced welder, who will do everything accurately and quickly. After welding, you can paint over the seam with waterproof enamel to increase the life of the part.

If the tank is deformed, the repair proceeds as follows:

You will need a hammer with a block of wood. If the damage is small without holes, no other tools are needed.
The dent must be heated with a gas burner, for example. The outside of the tank heats up.
It is not a dent, but a bulge that hits the bar with a hammer, until the metal has cooled down.

If there is a malfunction in the drain system, the plan of action is as follows:

We check the drain hole for blockages. It may be necessary to remove the limescale; it is convenient to use sandpaper for this.
The rubber band and cuff also require careful inspection. It happens that the gum becomes oak and cracks, in this case there is only one way out - replacing it with a new one.
The drain valve has contacts, it would be good to take a multimeter and check them, after thoroughly cleaning them. If the resistance is equal to one, the replacement of the part will be required, because it is clearly defective.

Of course, repairing a washing machine tank with your own hands is not an easy task. To properly disassemble, repair, and most importantly, to accurately assemble the unit at home is almost a feat!

If the reason for the breakdown of an automatic washing machine is a tank or a moving element located in the tank, this means that you will have to disassemble the machine to the ground. First, you will have to remove the tank, while disassembling the body of the machine, and then disassemble the tank itself, and then put everything back together. This is a rather laborious work, so repairs need to be done once and conscientiously, so that you do not have to, then re-disassemble the machine. To make a DIY repair from start to finish correctly, check out our article.

The tank of the Indesit washing machine (or any other) is its main part, which contains the drum and other moving elements. It is in the tank that water is collected and, in fact, washing takes place in it, even though the laundry is in contact with the walls of the drum, not the tank. At first glance, it seems that the tank itself cannot break down, because it is only a reservoir. Moving elements located in it are another matter, but this is a common misconception. So what can break in the tub of an automatic washing machine?

Bearings. It is a moving element in the tank. The bearings themselves cost a penny, but changing them will take a lot of effort. There is a risk of serious damage to the shaft, pin and other elements.
Shaft. May deform if bearings are not repaired.
Tank walls. May bend due to centrifugal force from contact with drum if shock absorbers and bearings are damaged. In the worst case, the walls can get damaged, which will compromise their tightness.
Tank drain hole. The hole itself, of course, cannot break. But a drain valve is installed on it, which may fail. In addition, the drain hole may become clogged and must be cleaned.

Note! If the bearing is not repaired in time, this can lead to the complete destruction of the tank by the backlash drum. After that, the tank will definitely have to be changed!

The procedure for disassembling the tank of an automatic washing machine is similar in all cases. At least we will deal with a non-collapsible "version" of the tank, even with a collapsible one. It is quite possible to disassemble the washing machine tank with your own hands, but you need to act very carefully. We deliberately decided to describe the whole process using the example of a non-separable tank, since it is somewhat more difficult to cope with it.

At the first stage, we carefully examine the tank body from all sides. Our task is to locate the welded seam, as well as outline the places where we will drill holes for future fasteners. After that, we take an electric drill, a thin 3 mm drill and drill 15-20 holes in a circle, as shown in the figure below.

Further, the crucial moment, we need, acting as carefully as possible, to saw the weld seam of the tank body in two halves with our own hands, using a hacksaw for metal. This work will take a lot of time, so please be patient and go ahead. So non-collapsible tanks turn into collapsible ones.

Important! When cutting the tank body, do not go too deep, maximum 5 centimeters, because the body walls are not thick. If the hacksaw blade slips deeper, you risk damaging the drum walls.

After you can cut the tank, you should get two halves - the front and the back. The front part is a small irregular plastic ring, in the middle of which there is a hatch and a rubber cuff. In the rear half of the body is the entire drum, together with the drive mechanism, which can now be removed.

We take the rear half of the tank and turn it over with the drum hatch down. Now we need to disassemble the shaft without damaging its main fastener - the screw in the middle. To unscrew it, you need to take a metal rod (a center punch works well), point it at the screw and hit the rod several times with a bronze or ordinary hammer. Next, take a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screw.

The next stage of disassembling the tank is reduced to the correct removal of the shaft from the stem. This is how it is done. First, take a small block of wood and two large blocks. We substitute large bars under the edges of the tank so that it stands more or less stable on them. We take a hammer and a small block, direct the block to the stem and hit it several times with a hammer. We apply blows like this: first a weak blow, then a little harder, then a little harder. After that, the drum should separate from the tank body.

Note! You do not need to hit the rod with all your strength through the block. The stock looks reliable, but looks are deceiving, so in order not to damage the part, measure the force of the impact, it is better to play it safe.

The next stage is related to the dismantling of the bearings from the tank housing. If the bearings are in good condition and the problem is in a deformed or leaking tank, they can not be touched, since they do not interfere with the repair.But if the malfunction is associated with bearings and oil seals, they must be removed. We take our metal rod, direct it to one of the edges of the bearing and strike it lightly with a hammer. We transfer the rod to the other end of the bearing and strike again.

You cannot hit only one edge of the bearing, as it will open up, and then it will have to be drilled with a step drill. We remove and replace both bearings with new ones. After replacing and repairing all faulty parts, we assemble the tank in the reverse order. At the same time, we coat the edges of the sawn parts with a sealant or cold welding and connect, and we pass the bolts through the pre-drilled holes and fix them with nuts. The size of the bolts will depend on which drill you are using.

Image - DIY repair of a non-separable tank of a washing machine

After successful disassembly of the tank, we begin do-it-yourself repairs. We have already mentioned the process of replacing bearings, so we proceed directly to repairing the tank housing. We begin repairing damaged tank walls with an inspection and assessment of the nature of the damage. Much will depend on the material from which the tank is made. If it is plastic, then cracks can form on it, through which water seeps.

Some homebrew artisans suggest soldering the crack and continuing to operate the tank. In our opinion (and experts agree with us), such a spike will not last long and then it will be necessary to repair the machine over a new one. Better to get a new tank body and replace it. A plastic tank body is cheaper than a metal one.

If the tank is made of stainless steel, and a "hole" has formed in it, it is quite possible to weld it up, and it will still serve for some time. In this case, we recommend delegating the welding work to an experienced welder who must do everything quickly and accurately. After welding, paint over the weld seam with waterproof enamel - this will further extend the life of the tank. In general, there are no other adequate ways to repair broken metal tanks - just welding or a complete replacement of the unit. No amount of sealant or cold welding will help in this case.

To repair the bent metal tanks of the washing machine, it is necessary to repair in the following order.

We take an ordinary hammer and a wooden block. If the dent is small and the tank has no holes, nothing else is needed.
Using a gas burner, we heat the dent, heating the outer wall of the tank.
We install the block on the bulge of the tank, corresponding to the dent on the outside and until the metal has cooled down, lightly hit it with a hammer. The dent should straighten out.

Next, we need to check the drain valve and the drain hole of the tank for faults and blockages. We do the following.

We visually inspect the drain hole, remove the lint, hair, caked dirt and water stone. If you can't do this with your hands, use sandpaper.
We check the sealing gum and the cuff of the drain valve of the washing machine tank. If the rubber from time to time "hardened", became hard and cracked, you need to change both the cuff and the sealing gum.
We take a multimeter and check the contacts of the drain valve, if the resistance is 1, then the unit is faulty. It is necessary to replace the valve with a new one.

Important! Be careful, before checking the valve with a multimeter, thoroughly clean its contacts, and only then take measurements.

In conclusion, we note that it is quite difficult to repair the tank of a washing machine with an automatic machine. It is necessary to properly disassemble the machine, remove the tank, then disassemble the tank itself without errors, and only then proceed with the repair, and it is not a fact that this repair can be done at home at all. Everything will depend on the type of breakdown.

If the bearing is worn out in the automatic washing machine (CMA), you will have to disassemble the tank. If a non-separable version is installed in the machine, the product is first sawn to remove the bearing, and then glued. Moreover, the glued seam must be monolithic and waterproof.Let's figure out how to glue the washing machine tank to ensure a reliable connection. Find out which adhesives or sealants are preferable.Sealing and gluing a washing machine tank is a forced process that owners of some AGR models have to deal with. Non-separable tank washers are offered, for example, by brands such as Ariston and Indesit. Manufacturers, making this element monolithic, do not intend to disassemble it. If the bearing breaks, then the assembly must be replaced completely. But such a replacement costs a lot of money and our people simply cannot agree with this order of things. As it turned out, you can cut the drum in half, remove the bearing, replace it with a new one, and then connect the halves. It is important to know how and with what to seal the tank.When new bearings are delivered, the question arises - how to repair a plastic tank, sawn in half. How to glue the drum to prevent leaks? What to choose - glue or sealant? It is better to use glue, since no sealant can provide the required strength characteristics of the glued structure.Reliable connection of parts requires two operations:

The halves are connected with bolts and nuts. To do this, holes are made in the plastic - evenly along the entire seam.

The gap between the parts to be connected is filled with glue or sealant.

Not every composition will work. It is important to know what kind of sealant to glue the halves. In this case, the features of the operation of the unit are taken into account:

Severe Vibration - The connection must withstand severe mechanical stress.

Extreme temperature conditions - the node heats up and cools down.

Contact with aqueous media. Including with water supplied under pressure.

If the purchased composition fails you, leaks are possible. Then you will disassemble the machine again and fix the problem.Below are the adhesives and sealants that are suitable for bonding the drum. These compositions easily endure the difficulties characteristic of SMA - extreme temperature, vibration attacks, high pressure, contact with water.It is a flowable adhesive sealant designed for hermetic bonding of headlights and glass in cars. The composition is characterized by transparency. The hardened seams do not allow water to pass through, they are not afraid of extreme temperatures. The working range of the composition is from minus 62 to plus 232 ° C. Great for getting the job done. It costs an average of 175 rubles.The composition is highly elastic. Withstands strong vibrations and heat up to + 250 ° C. Its main purpose is to seal connections in electric motors. Reliably holds the halves of the product together even without bolting. One tube can glue 4 tanks. The cost is about 200 rubles.This is a polyurethane adhesive. If you use it, then the bolts are not needed. But it is so strong that if you need to disassemble the machine again, you will have to saw again. The second minus is the price, it costs much more than sealants, a 310 ml can is almost 700 rubles.An ultra-durable sealant designed to withstand the harshest conditions. He is not afraid of very high temperatures, he is not afraid of chemically aggressive substances, including acids. The cost is about 350 rubles.There is nothing difficult here. The main thing is to properly prepare the parts for gluing. Before sawing, you need to make 30-40 small-diameter holes across the seam. Then they are precisely aligned during gluing, and the halves are connected flawlessly.The joint of the halves is smeared with the selected composition, and then the bolts are fastened. Moreover, the bolted joints are tightened without waiting for the glue / sealant to dry. The seam is completely dry in two hours.

"Cold welding";

rubber gaskets tightened with bolts;

welding is the most reliable option.

Stainless steel. They are sealed. Take flux for stainless steel - F-38N. They use POS-60 solder and a 100 W soldering iron.

Plastic.For soldering use a soldering station or hot air gun (melting temperature 300 ° C). The patch can be supplied from a piece of plastic.

Dismantling and cutting the tank may be necessary when:

malfunctions of bearings and wear of oil seals;

wear of the bearings, which leads to deformation of the shaft.

To cut the product, you must first remove it. Disassembly of CM from Indesit:

Disconnection from the mains.

Dismantling the panels - top and rear, by unscrewing the bolts.

Removing the drive belt from the pulley.

Disconnection of the wires connected to the heating element.

Loosening the clamp holding the drain pipe. Eating the latter.

Loosening the shock absorber nuts.

In the upper part of the CM, unscrew the suspension mounts.

Removing the container for powder - unscrew the self-tapping screw.

Removing the panel and removing the detergent drawer.

Removing the cuff and pressure switch.

Removing the product from the suspensions and removing it.

The element to be cut is placed on the floor. The surface must be flat.

Place marks under the screws.

Drill holes in the plastic - 3 mm in diameter. Only 15–20 pieces.

Place the product on one side. With a metal saw, they begin to cut from above.

The maximum depth is 5 cm. Large cutting depths can damage the drum.

As you cut, the seam is sprayed from time to time to make it easier to cut and to prevent the plastic from heating up.

Having cut the product into two halves, take out the drum. For this purpose, the fastening bolt is unscrewed and the shaft is disassembled - a drum is fixed on it. Remove the pulley and remove the drum. Now you can change bearings with seals. After replacing the parts, they start gluing.

How and how to glue the washing machine tank after repair - video:

remove the pulley;

aiming the metal bolt on the shaft, knock on it with a hammer;

take out the drum.

After disassembly, another question arises: how to repair and seal the plastic water tank?

Examine the parts from the inside. If they are badly damaged, do not waste time on repairs. Replace oil seals and bearings if necessary.

The sealant or adhesive for the washing machine tank must be suitable for the operating conditions. That is, to withstand temperature extremes, vibrations, pressure, exposure to water. Therefore, the choice must be approached responsibly.

What kind of sealant can be used to glue the washing machine tank:

Permatex 81730. Adhesive-sealant possesses fluidity, thanks to which it effectively binds all seams and cracks. The transparent waterproof seam is resistant to extreme temperatures (-62 ° to 232 °), shock and strong vibration.
An ideal solution for those who are looking for how to glue the washing machine tank after repair.
Bonds moving seams thanks to its elasticity. It is widely used in outdoor construction work. Able to withstand critical temperatures up to + 315 ° C. Economical consumption and durability are ensured.

Glue F. A really powerful tool - you don't even need to attach the parts with screws. However, there is also a drawback: when disassembling again, the tank will have to be sawed again. More expensive than sealant.
ABRO 11AB-R. This sealant provides a reliable effect even under extreme conditions. It is resistant to high and low temperatures, mechanical stress.

After choosing, it remains to apply sealant to the edges of the halves and fasten them.

Now tighten the screws in the prepared places. Feel free to collect the car and run the wash to check.

It's a feat to do this on your own, but you can handle it if you arm yourself with our professional advice.

To help you, we offer a video on how to glue a washing machine tank:

Many companies producing washing machines have decided to "kill many birds with one stone" by making the tanks non-collapsible. Soldered tanks are easier to manufacture (there are no screws or fasteners.) And if there is a breakdown of a part inside the tank, then you need to change the whole tank with a celek and of course the manufacturer wins.

Today we will be repairing a tank with two bearings. If you have one bearing, then the analogy of repair is complete - to knock out one less bearing.

Stages of repairing a non-separable tank of a washing machine

drill holes
cut the tank
remove the drum
knock out bearings
install new bearings
stuffing box
reassembly

It is quite simple to repair a non-collapsible tank of a washing machine. Let's start. Here is the washing machine tank itself

Along the perimeter of the weld, it is necessary to make holes at a distance of 5-8 cm (it can no longer leak) and with a diameter of 3-5mm

Next, we take a hacksaw for metal and begin to carefully saw the tank along the seam.Sawing for a long time - you can handle it

After cutting, a plastic "ring" is obtained with the rubber of the hatch and the rear part with a drum, bearing and wheel for the belt pulley.

By the way! We do all this hard work, cheap and high quality. Sawing a tank is not so easy!

In order to remove the drum, it is necessary to remove the wheel. Since the screws are tightened with glue for reliability, it is necessary to take the bit (rod), insert it into the screw and hit it 2-3 times with a hammer, so that the glue on which it is planted moves away. Now you can safely unscrew and remove the wheel.

Take out the drum. Place the tank on the bars. So as not to damage the drum and hit the rod through a wooden block. Drum with stem does not need to be disassembled

Now you need to knock out both bearings. Take the steel rod and knock them out in a circle along the inner rings of the bearing, in turn, from the inside and outside. Knocked out bearings for scrap.

The drum shaft must be polished to a high shine.

Keep in mind that the crosspiece does not need to be removed for this operation.

The landing site must also be cleared of debris. We take two bearings in accordance with the dimensions. We smear the seat. We insert the bearing and tap on the OUTER edge of the bearing with a hammer or through the Getinax washer - the bearing must not be damaged !. We carefully hammer it all the way in - there will be a characteristic dull sound when the bearing rests on the side. We drive the next bearing in the same way.

The bearing must be sure to reach the stop!

Inner side of the tank. The procedure is completely identical. The only difference is that the bearing is clogged from the back.

We put an oil seal in the inner part of the tank above the bearing. Lubricate it lightly with silicone and it will fit very easily... This is a very important part (like the bearings) and must be new! An exception may be the lack of an oil seal on sale. In this case, the oil seal is removed carefully by hand, not with metal objects!

Lubricate the oil seal from the inside with "Grease for oil seals EBI cod 399"

We take the drum and put the tank on it. The drum rod must fit into the bearings. We put on the pulley ring and tighten with the screw.

We wash around the perimeter with silicone the sawn edges of the tank - we do not regret it, but also without fanaticism.

We connect and tighten both sawn parts with self-tapping screws around the perimeter.

Putting the washing machine together and voila, it doesn’t hum - you don’t need to change an expensive tank!

ps This article did not touch upon the issue of complete disassembly of the washing machine. This is a topic for a separate discussion, and the disassembly is different for everyone, but since you have undertaken to repair, we hope that you have an elementary skill with a screwdriver.

Video (click to play).

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