DIY repair nikon kulpix

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of Nikon Kulpix from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Having been in inquisitive children's hands, my Nikon E5200 camera returned from a summer trip to a health camp seriously “sick”. Diagnosis - broken battery compartment cover latch and battery retaining latch.

The first resuscitation solution that came to mind was to use a bank rubber band for money, which managed to fix the lid in 3 turns. It didn't help much - the rubber band, as it should, strove to jump off at the most inopportune moment. And in our case, this is fraught with not just opening the lid, it is a guaranteed loss of the battery, if you just stick your hand with the camera out the window of a moving car to shoot an interesting scene.

After a couple of happy finds here> a fallen out battery, a "brilliant" solution was born - to call an authorized service. And this can be called the second attempt at resuscitation. The call was successful! The serviceman expressed his readiness to replace any part of the hull, but only together with the hull itself. The very possibility of such a decision made me happy and encouraged.

In the course of further diagnostics of the camera, the service specialist was unexpectedly delighted. Still would! The "run" of the device in three "revolutions" of the frame counter seemed to him significant for this model, and he confidentially advised to buy a new camera. On this positive note, the second resuscitation event ended. But every cloud has a silver lining, because the new camera, purchased for the mother-in-law, unexpectedly did not suit her due to the difficulty of mastering this technique. As a result, she became my property.

Video (click to play).

It was a pity to throw out this well-deserved device. In some shooting modes, it still surpassed the newfound successor. It is also a pity to give it up to be torn apart in the hands of a colleague of an aircraft modeler. I didn't want to see fragments of a high-tech device in a report from the scene of the next accident. It was decided to fix the battery compartment cover with our own hands. Moreover, for this you can use popular technologies from aircraft modeling.

Armed with old tailor's scissors from my beloved mother-in-law's stocks, a piece of yellow tin, a nail, wire (from a paper clip) and cold-weld glue, I got down to business. First, with a nail, I scribbled on a metal plate something that resembled a pattern of a future part. Then, in violation of all sorts of tolerances with the utmost care (I know from experience that these scissors can pinch the hand with their rings) I cut out about what I wanted.

I worked a little with a file, pliers, inserted a carnation into the homemade loops and riveted it so that it would not fall out. I scratched the cover of the Japanese camera with a file. Morally, it is much easier to bear than cutting out the sunroof of your own car, but still - with regret. He mixed the glue according to the instructions, stuck the parts and left them in a well-ventilated place for a day.

It cannot be said that the children greatly admired the result, but after the explanations that “this is such a steampunk” (the style or subspecies of fiction - translated into an understandable language, but what is this, according to the concepts of young people, I myself vaguely imagine), the people became more kind and sometimes even uses reanimated equipment.

I looked on the Internet for methods of repairing the battery compartment cover and was surprised that I did not find such an easy way that I solved this problem myself.

Hello dear visitors!

In this post I want to share how you can fix the battery cover in the Nikon Coolpix L22 camera when the latches are broken. Judging by the reviews on the Internet, this breakdown is quite common, and on the same Internet there are various ways to solve this problem.

At first, I myself acted like this - putting in new batteries, fixed the lid with a drop of superglue, and when it was necessary to replace the batteries, pry off the lid, rip off the glue and everything repeated, but at some point I got tired of it, and I came up with a simple fixing method.

But before talking about it, and it is very simple, look at the other options that are offered on the Internet.

Options one and two - elastic band and electrical tape, everything is simple and concise, but it doesn't look very good.

Option three and fourth, holes are drilled, and then work with wire, a bracket is made from it, which will fasten everything. Also not ice.

Below is an option from a lamellar bracket that is attached to the lid, and with the other end, when closed, hooks onto the head of a bolt screwed into the body from the side.

Another option with a plate, although this is a different camera, but this method will work on Coolpix too. One end of the plate, with a bolt with a suitable thread, is attached to the camera in the place where the tripod should be screwed. The other end of the plate presses the battery cover.

The next option is not bad. A hole is drilled in the lid and the body for the bolt, the cap is grinded into the bolt and it is fixed in the hole of the body as a pin on the glue. After closing the lid, a nut is screwed on.

In the closed version, it looks like this.

Now the last option, in my opinion, is the simplest and most accurate. (Maybe because mine)

We drill a hole in the lid and body of the camera, with a diameter of about 1 mm or even slightly less. Then you need to pick up a screw slightly thicker than the diameter of the hole, plastic toys are often twisted this way.

We heat a screwdriver on fire and use it to tighten the screw into the hole in the camera body. For this, you can also use a not very hot soldering iron. Task - while heating the screw, screw it in so that a thread is formed in the hole. When screwed in, you need to let it cool and unscrew.

There are no "Vital Organs" at this point where the arrow points.

We screw the screw into the cover, it will connect it to the case.

When closed, it looks like this

Well, that's all, this is the end of the review of how to attach the camera cover.

Maybe it will be useful to someone.

Share your options, leave reviews, like!

Hello dear community.
The kettle is broken, does not heat the water. I decided to take it apart. I watched videos on YouTube and on the road. It seems nothing complicated. Moreover, he already somehow broke down with me with the same symptom, but everything was quite simple there, the contact that goes to the heating element burned out. So this time too, I thought that it was again a matter of this contact. But no. And it's not even the teapot. And in the stand itself. As I understand.

I am attaching a photo.
On the 5th photo there is a contact that calls with a plug.
At 6 - a contact that does not ring with a plug.

Although the contacts that go TO the board both regularly ring. The stand itself glows, the buttons work. Even the temperature is correct.
What could be the problem, tell me, please.
I really want to have some tea at last.
I apologize, I'm not good at this, I will be grateful for the available answers on further diagnostics / treatment.
Thanks!

Kettle model: Polaris pwk 1712cad.

Hello, Monique CTX S762A does not turn on, it looks completely dead, the diode on the panel does not light up. I don’t know where to climb, I ask you for help, I’m a beginner in this matter. I am attaching a photo of the power supply circuit: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2706/i186/1201/2f/ff96cbab816c.jpg.
According to the power supply board No. СТХ11S92-006A, I can say that the large capacitor C2 holds its 300 volts, 1.5 Volts comes to the capacitor C25, these volts go around the board, they are also present on the seventh leg of the regulator's busbars, these 1.5. B, and the rest of the legs are zeros. I really ask smart people to help find this missing voltage and start the monitor

Gentlemen in the know, I need your help with the repair of the blender (philips 700w). This is a great blender that picks up and stops.I barely disassembled it, the DC motor is working, but with the microcircuit this is what: it was burned out before, replaced it, but as soon as I press the on or turbo button, it burns (before 2A 250v). I dropped the engine (blue-brown wires with diodes), it still burns before, the diodes on brown and blue seem to be dead too. I will replace. The question is, can dead diodes lead to burnout? What else could be causing the problem? Attaching photo. Thanks for the advice.

I looked on the Internet for methods of repairing the battery compartment cover and was surprised that I did not find such an easy way that I solved this problem myself.

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Who disassembled the first SLR camera in life, it might seem that half a bucket of various screws and screws had been unscrewed. We will not describe each screw in detail. We will omit some aspects of the disassembly, because, trust me, somewhere on the seventieth screw, you will get bored, you will lose interest in the article and we will not get to the most important thing - the inner filling of the camera.

When starting to repair electronic equipment, first of all, you must turn off the power. In case of repairing a DSLR - remove the battery from the camera compartment.

The Nikon D5100 battery type is EN-EL14 Li-ion 7.4 V 1030 mAh, this type of battery is also used in the D3100 SLR camera and Nikon COOLPIX P700 digital camera.

In order to dismantle the rear part of the case, unscrew the screws on the lower part of the camera case, on the right and left sides, in other words, everything that is around the perimeter of the case.

Unforgettable about one hidden screw under the rubber pad (thumb grip), as shown in the photo above.

Carefully dismantle the back of the case. Remember that the back cover is still held by two cables.

First, we lift the connector latch and remove the cable going to the control buttons, then carefully disconnect the display cable from the motherboard, as shown in the photo above.

In the next part we will look at the composition of the Nikon D5100 DSLR mainboard ...

I am attaching a photo.
On the 5th photo there is a contact that calls with a plug.
At 6 - a contact that does not ring with a plug.

Kettle model: Polaris pwk 1712cad.

The fuse is out of order. How to disassemble Nikon L810.

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Nikon USB cable: Connectors for Nikon 8PIN USB: Tools and consumables.

Blue protective tape: Tweezers: Screwdriver: Our groups.

Tool in the video: - tweezers: - screwdriver # 1 (ph00): - screwdriver # 2 (slightly less.

USB ammeter - and wireless charging for any phone -.

Tools and consumables in the video: - tweezers: 1. 2. - screwdriver (ph00, the best I am.

The camera refused to turn on - I disassembled it: the case turned out to be simple and very common, but about it.

Elimination of the cause of the breakage of the cover latches and the battery compartment covers themselves using the example of a camera.

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Nikon EF film camera repair.

The curtain pin broke, so the lower lens curtain did not open. Using dichloroethane glue.

In this video, I diagnose a Nikon Coolpix L110 flash failure. Fortunately, the flash turned out to be.

In this video, you will see how to repair a flash in Nikon Coolpix L110. Liked the video - click "Like" and.

Professional repair of lenses Canon, Nikon, Sony, Sigma, Tamron -

After the camera was dropped, the following defect appeared:

In this case, the camera shoots and focusing works, the defect is only with the visible area.

After the camera was dropped, the following defect appeared:

In this case, the camera shoots and focusing works, the defect is only with the visible area.

We unscrew all the screws around the perimeter of the camera, two screws near the display leg.

Remove the microphone cover and under it unscrew the screw in the center (silver)

Carefully remove the back cover and disconnect all cables.

Unscrew the screws shown by the red arrow and remove the metal shield.
We unsolder the wires in the red rectangles and the green rectangle. It is advisable to sketch which wire where to solder.
After that, we remove the main board and see the matrix (sensor) which was knocked out of its place by the impact. The matrix should easily move about the lens axis horizontally and vertically. A clear sign of matrix sticking is its immobility.

We carefully put the matrix in place and assemble in the reverse order.

PS Initially, the camera visited a Nikon service center, where, after two weeks of diagnostics, a verdict was issued - replacing the lens for 7000 rubles. (How and with what was diagnosed? It is not clear)
Bottom line: 0 rubles and 2.5 hours of fiddling, saving 7000 rubles and 2 weeks minus 2.5 hours

• Low battery level.
• Overcooling of batteries.

There is no image on the screen

• The camera is off.
• Batteries are discharged.
• The camera is in standby mode: press the shutter

shutter button halfway.

• The flash lamp is blinking: wait for the battery to charge.

• USB cable is connected.
• The AV cable is connected.

Parameter Photo Information set to

Hide info... Select a value Show info.

• Adjust the brightness of the screen.
• Screen is dirty: clean the screen.

display inaccurate time

Check your camera clock regularly against a more accurate watch and
adjust as necessary.

Resetting camera settings

The clock battery is empty: recharge
clock battery. Pictures recorded before installation
hours will be marked as “00.00.0000 00:00”; videos -
“01.01.2005 00:00”.

• The camera is in playback mode: press the button

• The menu is displayed: press the button MENU.
• Batteries are discharged.
• Flash lamp blinking: Flash is charging.

The camera does not focus

• The subject has low contrast; dominance in the frame

repeating geometric patterns; too small
the area occupied by the object in the frame; object contains
many small details; the presence in the frame of objects with a strong
differing brightness or objects located on
different distances from the camera. Use a lock
focus after focusing on another object in the
the same distance.

• Focus error. Turn the camera off and on again.

If you have any problems with your camera, check the list below.
common faults before contacting an Authorized Service Center
for servicing Nikon photographic equipment. More information can be found on the pages,
whose numbers are listed in the right column.

In very rare cases, unusual characters may appear on the camera screen and the camera may
stop working. The most likely reason for this is the influence of strong external static
charges. Turn off the camera, remove and reinsert the batteries, then turn on the camera.
If the problem persists, contact an Authorized Service Center
Nikon photographic equipment. Be aware that disconnecting the power supply in the manner described above may
result in the loss of data that was not written to the internal memory or to the memory card at the time
the problem occurs. The above procedure does not affect the recorded data.

Electronically Controlled Cameras

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Joining the community occurs automatically without the approval of the candidacy of the joining by other members of the community.

Hello friends!
There is a compact book, seven years ago. Until recently, he served faithfully. But he began to give out a “lens error” - it was treated by restarting and strange behavior of the lens when zooming (sometimes it was hard to go out and was a little loose or something), and after that it began to produce photos blurred around the edges. The camera never fell, did not hold blows)
I went to the official service center in Moscow on Kurskaya. But, of course, they refused, because The photo apparatus has been removed from production, and they are only repaired by replacing the module, and tepe, and tede.
Here's a question - it's a matter of mechanics, apparently, which means you can try to fix it without replacing the entire lens, as I understand it?
You can climb inside yourself - your hands do not grow from the back seat, and you can probably find how to disassemble the device on the Internet, but somehow there is no certainty.
Would you advise, dear forum users, any service center or a separate specialist for Nikons?
There are a lot of centers, but they are also reluctant to burn themselves. Yes, and now there is no way to pay 25-35 thousand for a new similar device.
Maybe there is something (or someone) proven by their experience?

Thank you in advance for your help.

Phone +7 (495) 662-39-67
Moscow, 2nd Syromyatnichesky lane, 1
Business center "Delta Plaza", 1st floor

I am sure they will definitely help!

The Leader-SC service center repairs Nikon Coolpix cameras of all models, regardless of the complexity of the breakdown. It doesn't matter which model you have broken. Our craftsmen produce and repair amateur digital cameras and Nikon SLR cameras. If the defect is not clear, then free diagnostics will be performed first to determine the exact cause of the breakdown and the cost of the upcoming repair.After the client's consent, we will carry out repairs and provide a guarantee for the work performed and installed spare parts.

Over the years, our service center has collected extensive experience in repairing Nikon cameras. All breakdowns can be conditionally classified and categorized by types:

Lens breakage

It is also common for sand and dirt to get into the lens. This happens if, for example, you dropped the camera into the sand or are taking photographs on a sandy beach when a strong wind is blowing and sand is flying in the air. Sand gets between parts of the lens and paralyzes its mechanisms. You can only help in such a situation by completely disassembling the lens and thoroughly cleaning all its mechanisms from sand.

Faulty shutter or mirror drive - if it is a Nikon SLR camera. It is manifested by the fact that the shutter blades do not open when shooting, or the mirror does not rise. As a result, instead of an image, we have “Malevich's black square” in the photograph.

Display malfunction - most often they break or corrode conductive tracks as a result of moisture ingress. Factory defects are very rare and rare.

The built-in flash unit is out of order - either the flash lamp or the voltage converter is faulty, or - in very rare cases - the control of the flash unit. Here 50x50. The lamp is also not eternal and may fail over time. But there are cases when it breaks when the camera falls.

There are various other malfunctions, but they are less common.

Despite the high quality, cameras of this brand, unfortunately, sometimes break. In order to repair a digital camera, you need to have special equipment, technical documentation, and vast experience in this area. All these components are present in our service center. Access to original spare parts creates favorable conditions for a high-quality and successful repair result.

We carry out free diagnostics to find out the exact cause of the breakdown, and then inform the client about the cause of the breakdown and the cost of the required repair. If the answer is yes, we restore the camera. If the answer is no, then you do not need to pay anything, since free diagnostics... With this approach, we are interested in the cost of repairing Nikon cameras in Moscow to be acceptable, since it is important for us to obtain the client's consent for the repair and achieve a positive result of the restoration of the camera. Only in this case will we receive payment for our work.

Basically, the repair of amateur "digital cameras" fits into the range of 1500-3000 rubles, and the repair of SLR cameras in the range of 3000-7000 rubles. An important role in the formation of the price is played by the type of breakdown and the type of spare part that needs to be replaced. To clarify the price in your particular case, call the consultant and name the model of the device and how the defect manifests itself. Or come to the service center for free diagnostics.

If you need to repair Nikon cameras - "Leader-SC" is at your service! All work performed and installed spare parts are guaranteed.

It should be noted that our service center serves not only Nikon equipment, but also repairs Kodak cameras, repairs Canon cameras and all other brands.

It is very easy to use the services of our service center:

Call by phone in Moscow (495) 771-52-79 and describe your problem. Our experts will help determine the most likely cause of the breakdown and the approximate cost of repair, or
You can come to our service center and bring the device to free diagnostics... If the defect is not clear, we will accept the device and print you a receipt. After diagnostics, we inform you about the exact reason and the cost of the repair.
Ask a question using the feedback form on the site. We will answer you by phone, if you specify in the request, or by e-mail.
If the cost is acceptable - we repair. You take the finished device, check it - pay for the repair, get a guarantee.
If the cost turns out to be high - you take the device “without repair” without paying anything.
Courier service - the courier will deliver your device to the service center and bring the repaired one back. Check the possibility of using this service with a consultant by phone in Moscow (495) 771-52-79.

On the Nikon Coolpix L21 camera, the battery compartment cover turned out to be a weak point, after two years of use the latches on it broke and the cover stopped closing.

A new cover for the nikon coolpix L21 can be bought online for $ 10 with shipping, which is too expensive for such a camera. At first I tried to repair the broken latches, but after a week they broke again. Then I used scotch tape, but it didn't look pretty, and the scotch tape only lasted a couple of hours.

Basically I repaired the Nikon Coolpix L21 battery cover with a fishing line and a hook. Now it is a little inconvenient to close it, but it holds well, and you don't have to open the lid so often.

In general, how I did everything. I drilled three holes in the battery compartment lid, two near the edge of the lid and one near attaching the lid to the body - where he drilled it can be seen in the photo (you can click to enlarge). Then he took the fishing hook and bit off the tip with the nippers, the tip must be bite off completely and finished with a file so that there is no too sharp edge. I tied a fishing line with a diameter of 0.3 to the hook, but you can take a thicker one.

I ran the fishing line through the battery cover as shown in the photo. After that, I closed the lid, roughly measured the amount of line required to close the lid tightly and secured the edge with a screw, which is located on the camera body next to the battery compartment cover.

The fishing line has the ability to stretch, so the length must be selected experimentally so that when the hook is put on the eye for the lace, the fishing line tightly holds the battery cover.

That's all. I did it.) Of course, it is a little inconvenient to put on the hook and the lid does not fit very tightly, but with the help of a key or a small plate it can be put on without problems, and the loose fit of the lid does not affect the performance.
If I poorly described the principle of repair, then I think everything will become clear if you look at the photo.

How to disassemble Nikon CoolPix P7700?

About partial disassembly of Nikon Coolpix P7700 digital camera.

This video was shot during the disassembly of the Nikon Coolpix P7700 camera, which was undertaken to inspect the joystick and other camera control buttons. I apologize for the fact that the camera periodically fell out of sight. This was the first time I was taking apart a digital camera, and I had no time to think about the quality of the shooting.

Note that different lengths of screws are used to secure the rear panel.

Actually, the main problem during disassembly was the dismantling of the left side cover, which covered the display pivot mechanism. As it turned out, it was held in place by glue, with which a thin mesh was glued to it, which protects the speaker from the external environment.

This glue, hitting the panel to which the lid was attached, glued the lid to the panel.

Under the side cover is one of the screws that secure the back cover.

To disconnect the ribbon connecting the buttons to the printed circuit board, you need to lift the latch. The latch is made of colored plastic and is located at the back of the connector.

The button and joystick panel is screwed to the back cover with four self-tapping screws.

These screws are tightened very tightly.

The joystick was not demountable.

Its mechanism is fixed to a metal panel with small flared plastic pins.

The membrane contacts of the buttons are made in one piece with a loop connecting this control panel to the camera's printed circuit board.

The problem is this: you press the shutter button to take a picture, it does not work. After that you turn off the camera and turn it on again, the shutter is triggered spontaneously.
Can anyone explain what the problem is.
With proposals for the cost of repairs and your coordinates, please write in a personal.

Can someone tell me what. After turning on the camera, the trigger spontaneously works. If it's not difficult, tell me the cost of the repair.

It looks like a short-circuited release button. If, when you press it, two positions are clearly felt, then it suggests that moisture has entered. If not, then the button itself is to blame. For repairs, fill out the profile from where you are geographically. You look, and the master's fellow countrymen will be found. ...

where necroposters come from.

Love you, masters, to take a bunch of dough for nonsense. It is clear that for a blow with a hammer a ruble, and for knowing where to strike - 99 rubles. But, for the banal soured contacts to tear more than in Europe (I know what I say) God will not order. Now, if you need to do something with the replacement of parts, I will definitely contact you.

Original article in English:

We recently heard about a nice new product - Nikon Coolpix S1000pj digital camera with a built-in projector. We wondered how Nikon had managed to squeeze so many things into this little device, and we decided to do what we love - take it apart!

Here's what we need:

Phillips screwdriver size # 00
plastic opening tools
special plastic spudger (spudger)
soldering iron

Important! Everything that you do - do it at your own risk. Remember: After disassembling the device, you will void the manufacturer's warranty.

Separate user manuals in English and Spanish. And for you French-Canadians, there are no instructions!
Battery charger.
A / V and USB cables.
Belt.
Nikon Software Suite CD.
Nikon remote control, model ML-L4.

This remote even lets you control the zoom and shutter from a distance.

As engineers, we decided that the first thing to do was read the user manual ...
We are touched by Nikon's concern for the well-being of ordinary people, but to write in a separate paragraph "Get the camera out of the box"? Seriously?
FAILURE of common sense.

A very simple yet stylish molded plastic stand allows the camera to be easily tilted back for projection onto vertical surfaces.

The S1000pj has a single lamp projection system for viewing images in a darkened room.
The size of the image can vary from approximately 13 cm to 100 cm.
According to the specifications in the manual, the resolution of the projector is equivalent to VGA.

We at iFixit fully support the Alliance for the Restoration of the Republic rebel movement and are entirely on their side.

Help me, Obi-Wan Kenobi! You are my only hope. "

It's a shame the S1000pj's camera can't hum, whistle, or resist with waste compactors while trying to crush future Jedi.

The camera measures 99.5 x 62.5 x23 mm and weighs approximately 155 g without battery and SD memory card.

In the upper right corner of the camera, behind the lens cap is a wide-angle Nikkor lens with 5x optical zoom VR 5.0-25.0 mm and aperture ratio of 1: 3.9-5.8.

The rear panel houses a relatively large, bright 2.7-inch high-resolution LCD display.

At the top of the camera is a slider for focusing the projected image (circled in red in the picture).

Removing the rechargeable lithium-ion battery.

Battery model EN-EL12 has a capacity of 1050 mAh at 3.7 V, which provides an output power of 3.885 W. Nikon is clearly rounding up this figure.

The battery weighs approximately 22.5 g without the terminal block cover.

Our good old Phillips screwdriver helps you remove a few screws from the battery cover and memory card slot.

Lightly pry the chrome-plated plastic side panel with a plastic tool and remove it from the body.

The back panel is attached to the case with a few more screws.

We pry the panel around the perimeter with a plastic tool and remove the back panel from the case.
To our surprise, the front and back panels are made of aluminum.

The mechanical part of the buttons is attached to the back panel, and the electronic part is attached to the metal plate near the display.

The display is fixed to a metal plate with several clamping clips.

Lift the latch of the ribbon cable connector, disconnect the ribbon cable and remove the display.

Using a plastic tool, pry the speaker module out and off the metal plate.
The speaker produces pretty good sound when the camera is in projector mode.

Remove a few screws around the bottom of the open camera body.

Carefully pry up and remove the top and right camera panels.

Interestingly, the controls on the top of the camera are on a special board under the top panel. On the very top panel there are only button covers.

Carefully lift the protective steel plate off the system board.

Before removing the board, lift the ribbon retainer with the tip of a plastic spatula and disconnect the ribbon.

Pry up the top camera cable connector on the system board.

Lift up on the ribbon cable connector, disconnect the ribbon cable and remove the lens module.

Copper is an interesting choice for the rear of the lens module.

Here it is, the camera module in all its glory.

As with most compact digital cameras with optical zoom without an external telescopic lens, the inner lens group of the S1000pj lens moves perpendicular to the front surface when focusing.

Multiple movable lenses (circled in red).
CCD sensor (circled in orange).
Motorized optical zoom drive and lens tilt sensor (circled in yellow).
Iris and IS modules (circled in turquoise).

Light must pass through at least 4 glass lenses before shining on the CCD. This is the journey!

We need to disconnect a few more cables with a self-locking connector and unscrew a few more screws securing the motherboard to the case.

Disassembling this camera is not for the faint of heart - Nikon clearly does not provide user service.

We even had to unsolder several components including the cover drive, LED projector lamp, and flash lamp.

To remove the projector lens, you must first remove the flash lamp.

We unscrew a few screws ...

... And we remove the projector module.

Let's look at the inside of the projector module, without the protective cover.

The light for projecting images is provided by a very powerful LED (circled in red in the picture), which even has its own heat sink to dissipate heat to the aluminum bezel.

After passing through the LED, the light passes through a system of filters and lenses (circled in orange).

A specially designed light reflection system directs the light emitted from the LED through a tiny reflective LCD panel (circled in yellow) onto a mirror.

Before bouncing off the tilt mirror and exiting the camera, the projected image passes through the lens focusing system (circled in blue) connected to a slider on the top panel.

We almost took the camera apart ...

Remove the auto lens cap first. The cover is motorized and opens when camera functions are activated.

Removing the front microphone is a snap after removing the cover.

On the front side of the motherboard there are microcircuits:

Samsung 925 K5W1213LCA-AK60 EDE010D5 (circled in red)
Sanyo EV4MA N1U5YNPD 0925 (outlined in orange)
D805 0921K (circled in yellow)

ADDI7000 BCPZ 0924 1644955.1 (circled in turquoise)
87F283A 8KK5P (outlined in blue)

On the back of the motherboard there are microcircuits:

MAXIM 8916I TL919 + NTAS (circled in red)
HIMAX HX8852-A 005BEG 923ES06 LCOS display controller with MIPI-compliant interface (orange outlined).
Wolfson Microelectronics WM8941G 95AEKSW mono codec with speaker drive and video buffer (circled in yellow).

Video (click to play).