Do-it-yourself repair Niva 2121

VAZ-2121 "Niva" - a four-seater off-road passenger car. Produced by the Volga Automobile Plant.

The car VAZ-2121 "Niva" is a design development of JSC "AVTOVAZ". Produced since 1977. This is a car for off-road driving, traveling to hard-to-reach places, hunting and fishing trips. The folding rear seat allows you to place and transport various loads. Floor-level tailgate connector for easy loading and unloading.

"Niva" is a cross-country vehicle with a permanent non-switchable all-wheel drive with an interaxle locking differential and a transfer case with a lowering row. The car had a very progressive design, combining excellent off-road performance with the comfort of a passenger car, and had practically no analogues at that time. Successfully exported to many countries. The car became one of the first representatives of the now so popular “parquet” SUVs.

The body is all-metal, load-bearing, three-door, equipped with seat belts. The front seats - with headrests, adjustable in length and inclination of the backs, lean forward. The rear seat folds down to increase the luggage space. On request, the car is equipped with a rear window with electric heating, a cleaner and a rear window washer.

Another feature of this unique machine was the use of passenger car components. So, its engine was created on the basis of 2106, the gearbox and rear axle are also borrowed from this car. Despite this, the "Niva" has a unique cross-country ability for such a machine.

A 4-speed gearbox with synchronizers in forward gears, or a 5-speed gearbox was installed on the car. The transfer case is two-stage, with a center differential with a positive lock. The cardan transmission consists of an intermediate cardan shaft and cardan shafts for driving the front and rear axles.

The front suspension is independent, on transverse swing arms, with coil springs, hydraulic shock absorbers and anti-roll bar. The rear suspension is dependent, with coil springs, hydraulic shock absorbers, four longitudinal and one transverse rods.

Since the start of production, modifications have been produced with a 1.6-liter in-line four-cylinder carburetor gasoline engine. The modification 21211 that appeared later with a 1.3 liter engine was not successful.

As a result of modernization in 1993, a new Taiga model was born, which was assigned the VAZ-21213 index. This is a four-seater off-road passenger car with permanent non-switchable all-wheel drive. It's hard to believe that there are 16 years between these modifications. During these years, the factory did not make almost any changes to the design of 2121. And the changes made to 21213 models are more cosmetic than technical.

Externally, the new car is distinguished by a modified rear end. The 21213th has a “long” third door up to the bumper and new taillights. Loading something into the luggage compartment has become much easier. The lock, which was constantly clogged with dirt, disappeared from the back door. It can only be opened from inside the cabin. True, the location of the handle that opens the trunk, under the elbow of the rear left passenger, is difficult to call successful: you have to act “by touch”. The bumpers are now painted light grey, which is more practical than the previous unpainted aluminium.

Inside, a new panel, new seats, new lining. Dashboard as in the VAZ-21083 model. Only now the glare from it at night illuminates the windshield. The new seats are also made in the image and likeness of the G8. They are more comfortable and more modern than before. But the mechanism that reclines the back and moves the seat forward for the passage of the rear passenger is not reliable - after fifty operations it fails, due to distortions that have appeared, the back does not want to fall into place. The plastic panels of the rear sidewalls creak and creak from light pressure. But now there is a pocket next to the left rear passenger in the sidewall.

The engine has also been updated. The working volume was increased to 1700 cm3. A non-contact ignition system and a Solex type carburetor were used. An invisible but very serious improvement is a new form of combustion chamber. The refinement of the motor, along with changes in the transmission, made it possible to significantly reduce fuel consumption.

The transmission of the new car has a five-speed gearbox and main gears with a gear ratio of 3.9. Reinforced crosses are used. Their size has changed and grease fittings for lubrication have appeared. In the transfer case drive - CV joint. The purpose of its installation is to reduce transmission vibration and noise.

The brake system uses a vacuum booster and a master cylinder from the G8. The force on the pedals has decreased, but the wheel is now “upside down” and nothing can be put into it. In addition, the procedure for adjusting the steering gear has become incredibly complicated - now you can crawl up to it only with a curved screwdriver. The exhaust system has new mufflers. Their bodies are not welded, but rolled, like the machines of the “eighth” family.

For the foreign market, a modification of the VAZ-21214 with central fuel injection was produced. In the "standard" version - VAZ-21214-00. This car is a design development of AVTOVAZ JSC with a permanent non-switchable all-wheel drive with an interaxle locking differential and a transfer case with a reduction range.

The model range of JSC AVTOVAZ also included a temporarily produced transitional modification 21219 - a combination of the old body 2121 and an engine with a transmission 21213. On request, cars can be equipped with a Peugeot diesel engine with a displacement of 1.9 liters (VAZ-21215).

The Niva VAZ 2121 was the first comfortable Soviet SUV. Until it left the factory gates in 1977, off-road vehicles were used mainly for military purposes. For a Soviet citizen, an SUV, in principle, was not available, and they were not on open sale. There was an opportunity to buy decommissioned UAZs, but they did not differ in comfort. The only alternative to them was Volynets with an engine from ZAZ 969, which was on free sale, but it also did not meet all the requirements for comfort, although its off-road properties were highly valued.

Niva turned the concept of an SUV for the semi-wild inhabitants of the country of the Soviets - no one had ever seen such comfort as in the six, with the UAZ’s cross-country ability, but at first the consumer was stopped by a rather high price, and later they got used to it. Niva has become an active rural worker and urban dweller - in terms of performance, it is in no way inferior to the VAZ classics.

Niva 2121 do-it-yourself repair, which every motorist can perform in his garage, is still one of the most popular middle-class SUVs. Like every car, the Niva has its own characteristic malfunctions and illnesses. Being a very hardy and reliable car, it is very easy to maintain. Typical car malfunctions are mainly related to the peculiarity of its design:

• four-wheel drive and a transfer case with a demultiplier sometimes bring some trouble;
• body design features;
• front wheel drive;
• engines from VAZ 2106 are not designed for use on off-road vehicles;
• front suspension characteristic only for the Niva.

We will talk about some of them briefly, but we will dwell on the body in more detail. Questions to him rarely appear, but this does not negate their relevance.

The main problem with the Niva engine was that it was not originally designed for use in harsh conditions. This explains many of its characteristic breakdowns.

For cars with a 1.7 liter engine, the biggest problem was valve lifters. More precisely, their adjustment. When installing them, it is necessary to observe a precisely calibrated force, otherwise they will either wedge or get out if they are not clamped hard enough. The malfunction makes itself felt with a characteristic knock, and if you do not respond in time, it can kill the camshaft. Therefore, it is better not to take on this matter on your own if you do not have enough skills.

Transfer boxes, as a rule, never cause problems. You just need to keep an eye on the oil level. Cardan shafts can give unpleasant moments. Especially if they are not lubricated every 10,000 km. Crosses are not durable enough, but with regular lubrication, there will be no problems with them.

Another thing is the seals. Bridges and transfer case are equipped with oil seals of not the best quality, so they often leak. If you do not pay attention to this when changing the oil, then you can easily screw up the transfer case. It is better to buy branded seals, according to the factory size. Then there is a guarantee that the oil will not leak until the next MOT. VAZ 2121 after 2011 has Italian oil seals installed from the factory, in this case there is no cause for concern.

We will present several options for body work, which can be done with your own hands in the garage if there is a pit.

Before you start fighting corrosion, you need to figure out how rational it is. If it is easier to change a rotten threshold, then it is better to do this than to sculpt patches to rust. However, there are some ways to give the Niva body the proper look.

Tinning can achieve the localization of small pockets of rust. How to do this, we clearly showed in the figure.

Epoxy resins can also become a temporary body protection against corrosion and partial restoration of rusted areas. First you need to carefully clean the damaged area, and then apply a polymer patch using fiberglass. After the final drying, the patch should be treated with sandpaper, puttied, primed and tinted.

In Niva, the place where the beam is attached to the body very often rots. In the presence of a semi-automatic welding machine, this can be corrected by making a new lining on the seat.

First, we disassemble the front suspension until we get free access to the rotten place and clean it with a grinder, removing rusty areas.

Then we cut out a patch of living metal on a cardboard pattern, drill it around the perimeter for better welding contact with the metal of the car and weld it in place as follows.

After that, we grind the welding points with a grinder, primer and cover with anti-corrosion mastic.

Niva VAZ 2121 is a fairly reliable and practical car that does not require expensive repairs. Almost all work, including body work, is quite within the power of everyone to do in their garage at minimal cost.

Buying a VAZ body is a great chance to save money on an expensive overhaul or buying a new car. It has long been proven that it is more desirable to immediately dispose of a decrepit body for scrap than to periodically repair it in services where quite a lot of money is taken for services of this kind. A new body for the most popular Russian SUV is an opportunity for a radical upgrade.On the other hand, if you understand the specifics of body repair, you can carry out repairs yourself.

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Today, various companies offer owners of a universal all-terrain vehicle to purchase complete or metal bodies. Accordingly, the price will also differ. In addition, a wide choice of colors allows each owner to choose their favorite option.

For example, a body assembly for a Niva will cost about 300 thousand rubles, but a frame in metal will cost almost half as much.

Niva bodies are sold in the following colors.

Of course, minor defects that appear during the operation of 2121 are not at all a reason to replace the body. These defects can be easily eliminated with your own hands, saving on expensive specialist services.

Scratches, for example, can be easily and simply removed by polishing. Several types of grinding compounds and materials are used that effectively remove the top layer of paintwork, level perfectly shabby bodywork areas.

Note. Complete elimination of scratches in such cases is guaranteed, unless, of course, the outer layer of the paintwork is thoroughly damaged. And in general, you should not overdo it in the polishing process either, because in this case you can achieve the opposite effect, which will lead to a mandatory painting procedure (already more expensive).

Body repair also includes the restoration of geometry. The curvature of the core and its components occurs not only due to impact, but also due to temperature changes and obsolescence of the metal.

In this case, it is highly recommended not to follow the instruction manual thoughtlessly. For example, if the book says that the body will last so many years, you don’t need to believe this, since more active operation, extra loads and poor quality of the road surface cause excessive tearing in individual joints, reducing the life of the car.

Note. Diagnosis and restoration of the geometry of the car skeleton is the main and mandatory phase in the course of a full-fledged repair.

It is recommended to restore the geometry by stretching or compressing the metal frame only in specialized car services equipped with advanced equipment (computer systems), machine tools, and so on. Unfortunately, it will not be possible to carry out competent editing by independent forces.

On the other hand, if after the diagnosis it was possible to find out that only some elements of the body were deformed, then by tapping and extruding everything can be eliminated quite effectively. And in this case, you can work in two ways: without painting or with it.

Let's consider both options in more detail:

• The first repair option is based on the properties of steel. For example, each element that has elasticity weighs to straighten up to its original position. This characteristic feature can be put to good use, if competently, using special tools and technologies, squeeze out a dent and polish it.

Note. Unfortunately, this repair method is available only to the elite - people with extensive experience who have a set of special tools.

• The second way is less specific. In this case, it will be enough to evenly tap the part with a hammer from the wrong side, always applying a soft stop from the return.

Note. Tapping is a special technique that needs to be learned. It is not worth using strong blows, as the steel can be flattened.

Another option for repairing the 2121 body surface involves cutting out the deformed surface. This is done in cases where it is not possible to straighten the element by the methods described above.As a result, the body element from 2121 is cut out, a patch is welded.

Finally, if this is not possible, you can use the replacement of a certain body element as a whole. For example, it can be a fender, a bumper, a front body panel, and so on.

To protect yourself from problems, a caring driver uses preventive measures. Among them, in addition to antigrav processing and other procedures, is amplification.

All operations related to the strengthening and restoration of the car body are very complex, take a lot of time and effort, but give an excellent result.

In the first place, when it comes to modernizing the body, the reinforcement of the spars immediately comes forward. It is often carried out using a steel sheet up to 3-4 mm thick. At the same time, the suspension fasteners are reinforced.

We note right away that strengthening the side members in front is more relevant than ever if stiffer shock absorbers, springs and larger wheels are installed on the Niva. It is also recommended to do this after installing power bumpers and winches.

Here is what is recommended to do:

• First you need to provide access to the spar. To do this, the car is driven onto a flyover or lift, the wheel is dismantled.
• Next, the caliper is removed, the latch is unscrewed from the top of the support.
• A knot is knocked out under the lever with a hammer blow or equipment.
• The shock absorber fasteners (upper and lower) are loosened.
• The brake cylinder is hung on the hoses.
• The upper arm is removed, as well as the cup and the upper bump.
• The gearbox and steering pendulum are released.

This provides access to the spar:

• Next, check the condition of the place under the shock absorbers. If the part is not rusted, then it should be removed.

Note. In order to dismantle the “house” without any problems, weld points should be drilled. The drill is first loaded with a 5-numbered drill, marks are made. Then, with a 10-number drill, the weld points are finally drilled out. And one more thing: you can see all the weld points only after a good cleaning of the metal.

• The “house” is removed, and then the entire surface of the spar is cleaned again in order to diagnose for possible minor defects.
• Again, a thorough cleaning, because it is the basis of everything.

It's time to make the overlay:

• The part is cut out according to the pattern from cardboard. Everything is precisely marked on paper, including the places of bolts and clamps.
• After the layout is ready, you need to put a sheet of 3 mm iron on it and cut it out with a grinder.

Note. It is very important to act according to the rule: measure seven times. In addition, the lining must fit snugly against the spar.

• The necessary holes are drilled on the part and the spar.
• The pad sits on the bolts and is well fixed.
• Then the part is semi-automatically welded around the entire perimeter.
• A “house” is put in place and also welded.

At the final stage of work, it is imperative to cover all working surfaces with anticorrosive. In this case, mastic, which dries in one day, is the best fit.

Below is a list of the most popular measures to strengthen the Niva body and suspension:

• Welding of a subframe of a special type for a razdatka. This allows you to eliminate the misalignment of the box and transfer case, rid the body of vibrations, which will have a very positive effect on the off-road performance of 2121.

Note. In simple terms, subframe welding is the transfer of fixation of the transfer case from the bottom of the body to the spars (already reinforced). Thus, the razdatka receives reliable support and natural protection, including from stones.

• Refinement or complete replacement of the front suspension beam. A beam with upgraded bushings of levers is installed from below, effectively blocking the curvature of the axles.

Reinforcement of spars by welding with metal strips, preferably with 4 mm thickness.

• Installation of modernized ball bearings and rigid springs (it is possible from the Volga, but cut off by 1.5 turns).This gives a lot of benefits, given the heavy Nivovsky front end. Thus, the entire suspension is permanently and well protected.
• Installation of spacers to increase suspension travel (spacers 20 mm).
• Installation of new GZM shock absorbers Monroe 4x4 Adventure. In this case, it is recommended to strengthen the damper fixation zones without fail using welding.

• Installation of springs in the rear of the body from Signal. They are more rigid and have rubber spacers, which effectively affects the work.
• Strengthening the “traction + body” ligament (the regular one looks much weaker).
• Replacing the standard grenade with a CV joint 2121, which is less prone to vibrations.
• Setting thresholds of enhanced type. They run along the entire perimeter of the car side with the use of mandatory reinforcing moldings. Thresholds should be fixed to the spars.
• Installation of a set of reinforced jet rods.

Thus, the owner of the Niva must decide for himself which type of event is more suitable for the car. If the body 2121 is in order, then it will not hurt to carry out amplification for prevention purposes. This process is also relevant in the process of repairing an automobile skeleton.

On the contrary, if the body is completely worn out, looks decrepit and beyond repair, it will be easier to replace. True, today numerous legal delays turn a cardinal replacement into a very difficult and dreary business. But, body elements can always be replaced.

The body for 2121 is the most expensive part of the car. Remember this, try to regularly care for him. Read useful recommendations from our experts, get competent information.

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Among the models of the domestic automobile industry, the VAZ 2121 somewhat stands out from the general range, not only due to excellent cross-country ability, all-wheel drive and a load-bearing body, but also due to the fact that the Niva is the first independent VAZ development that has come down to serial production.
The car began to be mass-produced at the beginning of 1977 and immediately began to enjoy great success with the population not only in the union, and later in Russia, but also in many countries both near and far abroad. In its class, an SUV from Russia is considered the most successful model.
He found his consumer in France, Portugal, Spain and Canada. And although Niva equipped with a French Peugeot diesel engine is in great demand, cars with a domestic “1.6” are also sold out quite well.

Body repair vaz 2121 consists of several types of work.

Small scratches and dents that appeared during the operation of the VAZ 2121 can be eliminated with your own hands and are not even expensive at all.
For instance:

• scratches are removed by polishing the scratched surface, which is done with various abrasive pastes and materials that remove the top layer of varnish and paint, and this evens out the scratched surface. In cases where the top layer of soil is not affected, complete removal of the scratch is practically guaranteed.

Advice! You shouldn’t be too zealous, because in this case we remove, not remove the paintwork, and if you polish one place for a long time and hard, you can get to the metal itself, and this threatens with high costs, which will have to include the column “painting the car”.

Due to impacts, temperature changes and metal fatigue, the geometric dimensions of the car may differ slightly from those indicated by the operating instructions, which is fraught with the creation of unnecessary stresses in various joints and a significant reduction in the life of the car itself. So checking and restoring the geometry of the car is the main stage in the overhaul of its body part.

The main geometric dimensions of the body of the vaz 2121

If the result is negative, that is, when the actual dimensions differ from the reference ones, the geometry is restored by editing (stretching / compressing) the body and its elements.

When individual elements are deformed, metal is straightened by tapping and extruding it.
There are two ways here:

• Without subsequent painting;
• With subsequent painting.

In the first case, the repair is based on the principle of metal elasticity. Since each object with some kind of elasticity tends to return to its original position, this property can be used for its own purposes - a dent is squeezed out with a special tool and then polished.

Unfortunately, this method is available only to people with a special tool and extensive experience. I'm afraid that do-it-yourself repairs in this case will smoothly lead us to the second type of repair.

• In the second case, the dent is evenly tapped with a hammer or mallet from the inside, while on the opposite side a “fulcrum” with a rubberized soft surface should be applied.
• If the damage has more “sharp” edges or is even a deep scratch, then the stand is no longer taken on an elastic basis, but like a rigid stand or even an anvil. Tapping is carried out with a nylon or wooden mallet, from the middle to the edges of the dent.

Attention! Damage should be tapped slowly, and without much effort. Strong blows will only aggravate the situation, since the metal can flatten out and it will be impossible to return it to its original state in this way.

In cases where straightening by the above method of deformation is impossible, the damaged part is cut out, a patch is applied by welding or using solder or epoxy glue. Otherwise, the element must be replaced.

Advice! If you still want to tap the part and at the same time try to preserve the paintwork of the element, place several layers of soft fabric between its surface and the stand.

Before starting this stage of work, you need to make sure that the end justifies the means. That is, if the part has already been practically eaten by rust, then, as they say: “it’s too late for Vasya to drink Borjomi when the kidneys failed.”
If everything is not so bad, then we choose one of two methods.
Method one. We solder the centers of corrosion with solder:

• Preparatory stage. We clean the surface of the body, remove traces of corrosion, process the edges of the holes with flux;
• Tinning. The surfaces of the “wound” and the patch (if any) are covered with a small layer of solder;

When restoring the surface by soldering, the next step can be skipped

• Direct soldering. In order for the seam to be tight and have maximum reliability, the surfaces to be joined must have as large a contact area as possible.

Advice! In order to hide the soldered patch, it should be applied from the inside, after which the surface of the part should be leveled with automotive putty and painted.

Method two. We solder the centers of corrosion using epoxy resins:

• We process the restored surface with coarse sandpaper;

• We clean the surface from particles of abrasive materials, particles of oil and dust, degrease;
• We cut out three patches of fiberglass according to a pre-prepared template.

Attention! The patches must cover each other, i.e. the first patch is 25 mm larger than the damaged surface to be covered, the second patch is 45 mm larger, the third patch is 65 mm larger, respectively.

• The patches are impregnated with epoxy resin and alternately glued to the damaged area;

• The resulting patch is covered with cellophane and glued with adhesive tape for tightness (so that the resin does not leak out);
• The entire surface is rolled with a roller until a general shape is given;
• After 24 hours, the hardened patch can be processed - sanded, primed and painted.

Of course, it is advisable to look at the video illustrating the repair of the body of the VAZ 2121 with your own hands, but I think the material presented makes it clear the main stages of the repair.

Due to the specifics of its operation and design, the VAZ 2121 requires increased attention to itself, namely, increased control of the condition of the body. In general, if you are the owner of a used Niva and are going to use it for its intended purpose for at least another couple of years, carefully inspect the condition of the body of the VAZ 2121, the repair of which and the strengthening of its individual elements is more a necessity than a precaution.
Problem areas to which special attention should be paid are:

• The bottom, namely its corrosion and through holes in the floor (very often the car overcomes water barriers without subsequent high-quality drying);
• Spars, namely for the presence of cracks (consequences of impacts with appropriate metal fatigue).

Spars cracks, as a rule, occur in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bmounts:

• Steering gear;
• pendulum;
• Engine beams;
• The upper bracket of the front shock absorber;
• Mounting rear shock absorbers;
• Long jet rods to the very bottom of the floor;
• "House" thrust "Ponara".

The photos below clearly show the repair of the body of the VAZ 2121, which was in operation for only five years.

Restoration of the rear part of the front spar

Front spar before repair

New, shiny - just like the real thing

In addition, some other “little things” can be expected on the body, namely:

Cracks in the most unexpected places

Complete loss of body parts

and vehicle suspension components

Since the work associated with the restoration and strengthening of the body is very laborious and takes a lot of time and effort, the restoration of a car from an economic point of view can be considered cost-effective only when it is done by oneself. And this means that when buying a rotten car, even when its price is mere pennies, it is necessary to take into account the considerable future costs of restoring it.
Reinforcement and replacement of parts of the floor and side members are usually carried out with sheet metal patches 3-4 mm thick.

Ready-to-install Patches/Spar Reinforcers

Ready, with reinforced spars, car floor

After all the main deformations have been corrected, the welding work has been completed, you can proceed to the final part of the repair of the VAZ 2121 body.
We carefully inspect the body and its elements for the presence of dents and chips, which, after preliminary degreasing, are covered with putty. At the moment, the surface plane of the car body depends on the quality of the procedure, so it is considered one of the most important stages.

• After we have achieved the initial state of the surface of the body, we begin to grind and polish it. This process is carried out in stages - gradually replacing materials with large abrasive particles to finer processing with fine-grained sandpaper. Your task is to make the surface of the body completely smooth.

• We apply primer. Primer - leveler eliminates all transitions between putty and metal (fills all pores);

• The last stage of preparation for painting is blowing the car body from dust, degreasing and drying it. With these actions, we ensure the maximum connection of the coloring matter and the car body.
  It remains only to pick up the paint, paint and polish the car.

After perceiving the information presented in this article, it can no longer be argued that repairing the body of the VAZ 2121 and restoring its individual elements is an idle task. This procedure requires certain skills in many branches of plumbing, remarkable patience and ingenuity.
This is due to the fact that, even in spite of all the available power and capabilities of modern technologies, most of the restoration body work is carried out manually. This requires its specificity, which directly affects the cost of the work performed.
Well, since we do everything with our own hands, then we "can handle all the mountains"!

Tuning a Niva 2121 with your own hands is traditionally a relatively simple process for the "classic" lineup. The result is the creation of exclusive modifications of the all-terrain vehicle, which in appearance, interior and technical characteristics are not inferior to foreign middle-class models. Do-it-yourself car tuning can be turned into a profitable business, and Niva 2121 will become a training ground and allow you to gain the necessary knowledge and skills.

Initially, the Niva 2121 was created as a universal all-terrain vehicle that feels comfortable on the roads and in the city. Therefore, it is logical that Niva 2121 off-road tuning is especially popular.

This is due to its relative simplicity. To create, or rather, enhance the image of an SUV on a car, you need to install:

• Larger wheels with tires designed for extreme off-road use. It should be recalled that low-profile tires are not relevant in this case. It is also necessary to take into account that the installation of large diameter discs requires impressive performance in terms of torque. Ignoring this rule will lead to premature wear of the power unit.
• Install arch extensions on the Niva - solve several problems at once: get rid of splashes of dirt on the wings and doors, expand the possibilities in terms of choosing the diameter of the disks, complement the tuning composition
• Power harness. It consists of a powerful kenguryatnik. It is easy to make it yourself from pipes. A structure is installed on the back door, on which the spare wheel is attached. It will also perform a protective function. Be sure to install a winch. It will help on the roads and give the car an aggressive, masculine look.

This is all that is needed to create a car focused on participation in sports competitions or outdoor activities. Such an external tuning of the Niva 2121 combines aesthetic and practical functions. Therefore, the efforts and funds invested in it will quickly be justified.