DIY pentax lens repair

In detail: do-it-yourself pentax lens repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Continuing the topic of photo instructions, I am publishing a collection of manuals and photosets that I have gathered with various options for disassembling Pentax digital cameras. The list will grow over time.
Instructions for disassembling lenses in a separate post.

Servicemanuals.
I note that the most detailed and useful are descriptions for cameras Samsung GX-10, GX-20 (Almost complete copies of Pentax K10, K20)

istD.pdf (5.22MB)
Number of downloads :: 444

istdl.pdf (3.56MB)
Number of downloads :: 295

istDL2.pdf (560.09K)
Number of downloads :: 244

istDS.pdf (5.01MB)
Number of downloads :: 372

k100d.pdf (3.1MB)
Number of downloads :: 473

k110d_techreport.pdf (142.85K)
Number of downloads :: 308

k100dSUPER.pdf (546.76K)
Number of downloads :: 360

k10D.pdf (4.63MB)
Number of downloads :: 702
password - 8639
Taken from here.

K20D_parts_listing.pdf (567.96K)
Number of downloads :: 158

K-7_parts_listing.pdf (4.75MB)
Number of downloads :: 225

K200D.zip (3.64MB)
Number of downloads :: 444

gx-10.zip (28.27MB)
Number of downloads :: 419

gx-20.zip (31.06MB)
Number of downloads :: 411

The main task of the lens is to project the image onto the matrix surface. It consists of several lenses housed in a housing. Pentax is a new generation of photographic equipment. The lenses take pictures of unsurpassed quality, are distinguished by good color rendering, solid construction and a high degree of protection against dust and moisture. Any technique under the influence of various factors breaks down. To entrust the repair of Pentax lenses must be trusted by specialists, top-class craftsmen with experience and the necessary knowledge. The cost depends on the design of the model, the complexity of the resulting breakdown.
Solving problems with photographic equipment and repairing Pentax Lenses is offered by the ReMobi Center. Here you will receive qualified help from real specialists. Diagnostics makes it possible to reliably identify the cause of the malfunction, and the client also receives a repair guarantee.

Our operator will quickly call you back and answer your questions ›

free collection of the device;
acceptable cost;
urgent repairs;
convenient work schedule;
consultations, recommendations for the care of equipment.

The ReMobi company offers a full range of services for the maintenance of Pentax photographic equipment.
They will quickly identify the malfunction, fix it, and execute:

Video (click to play).

flawless cleaning;
flashing;
full recovery from a fall or ingress of water or sand;
optical axis adjustment.

Lenses get malfunctioning as a result of falling, impact, sand, moisture. Experience shows that the problem of non-working equipment can be solved by correcting the gearbox, repairing the autofocus, changing the gears, cleaning the lens unit or completely replacing it.
The most frequent breakdowns:

problems with curtains;
wear of parts;
corrosion of the board, metal parts when water gets in;
offset of elements;
failure of precision focusing sensors;
the diaphragm collapsed.

The problem does not appear externally, but the images are of low quality. This is due to the violation of the optical axis.
Only careful attitude, regular routine diagnostics will help prevent serious damage to lenses. Only top-class masters can return the previous functionality to optical equipment.
Repair of Pentax Lenses in the ReMobi Center - quality, fast terms, low prices, high-class work. Your technique will work for years to come, and will bring many great pictures.

Digital camera Pentax Optio 33L (with 3x optical zoom).

When turned on, the child touched the sliding lens and the device turned off (possibly due to the motor current).

After switching on, the motor hums strained (plaintively), and the lens does not move

If you look into the lens, the shutter is not closed, and the concentric tubes of the body are asymmetrically displaced relative to one another in the horizontal plane (skew) and the lens is mechanically rigidly clamped, does not flutter as before.

Most likely there is no breakdown of the mechanism, becauseafter it became clear that the mechanic had jammed the batteries were taken out and no crunches and crackles were heard.

How to properly disassemble the body of the device so as not to break it completely? and having disassembled to loosen the tension created by the motor, you may have to disconnect it from the circuit for this and supply power from an external source (laboratory power supply unit, for example).

I have experience of such work, but I haven’t had to disassemble digital devices yet, this is the first one in my practice.

I would be very grateful if the pros explain how to repair such a malfunction, or if someone shares a service manual.

But is there any pitfalls in this device without knowing which you can finally break it and even SC will not help? for example hidden latches, sequence of removal of mechanical elements, indexes on gears?

(the fact is that I'm not at home yet and disassembling the device without a tool and outside the workshop is fraught, and it is cheaper to drag it to the SC or to a special workshop - it’s cheaper to buy a new one with the same characteristics

I looked on the internet, in Moscow, prices for repairing digital cameras from $ 100 start even without replacing components

and where in Moscow (closer to the center and to the metro, it is desirable) can such repairs be performed inexpensively and with high quality?

I managed to wedge the lens! The devil is not so terrible. (WITH)
The most difficult part was finding the right tool and calculating the location of the screws.

I wedged the lens in this way (I hope someone else might come in handy):

1. Take out ist. power supply and flashcard.
2. Carefully unscrew with a watch screwdriver (there is a cross, but very thin) all the screws that secure the covers from the outside: (3 from below, 2 from the side of the lace, 1 above the interface connectors, 1 under the flip of the flip display.
3. The back cover is removed, neatly unhooking the halves with a sim card, or with a fingernail, after lifting the display to the upper position.

4. After removing the back cover, be careful. ATTENTION! flash capacitor can kill to death!
DO NOT TOUCH ITS CHAINS OR FLASH CHAINS IN ANY CASE.

It seemed problematic to me to discharge it, I just took out the batteries a couple of weeks before disassembly and during this time it self-discharged (I hope), well, I was careful constantly not to touch it (you can still carefully close up the flash zone, for example, with masking paper tape, it is not strong it sticks and can be easily removed afterwards.

1 more insidious screw is located in the depth in the region of the strap; it is convenient to unscrew it with a pre-magnetized screwdriver.

I still unscrewed the screws in the area of the LCD (but not the ones that hold the matrix! - you can knock off the alignment!), but IMHO they did not interfere.

5. After all the screws have been removed, the inner part, actually the CPC itself, can be easily pulled out of the front cover, there is nothing holding it here.

It is best to disassemble such a trifle on a flat table on a clean white sheet of paper in good lighting and armed with a binocular, just for every fireman. Where from which screw is unscrewed, it is also better to sketch along the way, they are not all the same there!

Now the most important operation: Near the lens we find the motor of its drive (it has all the gears under the lid and the gearbox there looks like a worm gear, so trying to turn the gears, those at the top, is not worth it - it's useless.
From this motor there are 2 wires, red (closer to the lens) and black (farther away), each soldered to its own ball on the ribbon - we solder the black one.

We apply voltage to the wires GOING TO THE MOTOR! from an external current source, I used 3 AAA elements connected in series (I used a clip from a Chinese LED flashlight), from 1 or even from 2 elements the motor did not want to smoke, but from 3 it agreed

My wedge was tight, so I had to slightly loosen the screws securing the gearbox housing. With a weak wedge, I hope this will not come in handy.

As a result, it was possible to remove the lens from the wedge with short pulses!

After he began to move, I had to help a little with my hands - to eliminate the skew.

After making sure that there is no wedge, we tighten the screws for securing the gearbox as it was, and several times we drive the lens back and forth from an external source, checking that everything is normal.

Gently solder everything back, check that nothing is broken and that no hair or dust is left, we put it together in reverse order.

When assembling, do not forget to correctly put in place the flag of the microswitch of the cover of the flash card, the bastard flies

and still strives to pop out the pin of the strap - I smeared it with transparent silicone sealant for this.

Everything! you can collect and enjoy life

I hope this instruction will help someone else, tk. accidentally slowing down the lens is not surprising

But about the pebbles in the next message. if you do everything carefully, they will not be!

Pebbles, pebbles, how can it be without them

and so, about the promised stones, their mother

If you look into an open lens, you can see such a spherical movable shutter (it moves when shooting, opening and closing the lens). after this problem with the wedge, after this problem with the wedge, it does not open to the end as before, but is always almost closed (a small crack remains and it does not move as before

and Kaer takes pictures, but the luminosity is clearly not enough and the pictures look dark)

A question for knowledgeable people: What could jam there and how to get to it?

least of all I want to disassemble the lens completely, tk. this procedure will entail the need for alignment

Lens malfunction - this must be the most common failure of digital cameras. Some common error messages that may appear on the display of cameras with this issue include“E18 lens” (“E18 lens error” in older Canon models), “ACCESS” (access error) (Sony), “Zoom Error” (Fuji), “Lens Obstructed” (“lens problem”) (Kodak), “Lens> error, restart camera” or just “lens error” (almost all camera manufacturers use this option lately). Some cameras may not display anything at all, but only beep, the lens moves in and the camera turns off. Sometimes the lens won't even extend.

The problem is actually quite common with all digital camera models. Usually it is sand or other small particles that get into the lens extension mechanism and autofocus mechanism. Or the camera was dropped with the lens extended. The camera may have been turned on, but the lens was prevented from extending (for example, it was accidentally turned on in the bag). It happens that after extending the lens, the batteries run out and the camera turns off with the extended lens. Believe it or not, one of the causes of lens malfunctions is the use of cases and purses. Sand, dirt, fibers, etc. accumulate at the bottom of the case. These materials like to cling to the camera body due to frictional electrostatic charge (especially when the case is soft and fluffy). After these particles find their way into the lens mechanism and malfunction messages occur. I own a lot of Canon cameras and never use cases for this very reason.

For the owner of the camera with this problem, there may be no point in contacting the warranty workshop. Many camera manufacturers will not cover this issue under warranty. According to them, this is due to damage to the camera due to shock or sand or debris trapped in the lens extension mechanism (none of which are covered by the warranty). The cost of repairs is usually close to or more than what the camera actually costs. Since warranty workshops in most cases change a faulty lens for a new one, the cost of which is high as a spare part.

Fortunately, about half of the cameras that suffer from this trouble can be easily fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods require disassembling the camera, although some can cause other damage if overdone and careless.If the camera is still under warranty, before applying any of these, please visit your camera manufacturer's warranty workshop to see if the repair will be covered under warranty, or to determine how much they will charge for paid repairs. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they list an amount that is higher than the value of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods. Here is a video description of each of the troubleshooting methods, followed by a detailed description of them.

The methods are listed in order of risk of damage to your camera. Therefore, you should try them in the order shown. And remember that these methods (in particular, No. 6 and 7) should be considered only for cameras for which the warranty period has expired, the indicated repair cost would be excessive. If these methods did not lead to the correction of the error, it is possible to contact a paid service, the cost of repair in which is lower than in the warranty.

Method 1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Insert a fresh set of batteries (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500 mAh or higher) and turn on the camera. If you have been using batteries for more than a year, consider purchasing new batteries as they may not provide enough power to start the camera.

Method 1a: If new batteries do not work, try pressing and holding the Menu, Function, Set, or OK button while turning on the camera. This, along with Method 1 and # 2, sometimes works to correct lens errors that occur due to low battery power when the lens is extended.

Method 1b: For those of you who were able to access the camera menu with this error, try locating and selecting “reset” to reset the camera to its original position. On some Canon cameras, this requires holding the menu button with the power button for up to 10 seconds. Note, however, that a lens error may sometimes prevent the reset option and thus the parameter may not be displayed.

Method 2: If the camera's batteries are completely discharged while its lens was still open, the camera may show a lens error or not start correctly when new batteries are installed. Remove the memory card and do not insert it into the camera, then install new batteries. When you turn on the camera without a card, it may come back to life as it causes a reset in some models. Error E30 (for old Canon) means that you have no card installed, so you should turn off the camera, insert the card and turn it on again.

Method 3: Insert its audio / video (AV) cable into the camera and turn on the camera. Connecting the cable ensures that the camera's LCD remains off while the process begins. Thus, additional battery power will be available to the camera lens motor during startup. This extra power can be helpful in bridging dust or sand that can interfere with the lens. If the AV cable does not correct the lens error on its own, I consider keeping that cable installed on the line when trying to fix 4, 5, and 7 as a means of providing extra power to aid in those attempts. But please note that I do not recommend keeping the cable installed during the Fix 6 process as this may damage the AV port when trying to turn on the camera.

Method 4: Place the camera on its back on a table with the lens pointing towards the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button and at the same time press the power button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is being extended. Hopefully, while the lens is extending and the AF lens is moving, the guide pins will sit in place.

Method 5: Use a rubber blower to blow out the gaps between the lens cups with compressed air. The idea is to blow out sand or other debris stuck in the lens mechanism. Other options for blowing out are using a hair dryer in cold mode or sucking air out of the lens gaps (be careful with this!).Some people use a vacuum cleaner for this.

We are now entering the area of potentially dangerous camera rescue methods. There is certainly some risk, so be careful when doing the following:

Method 5a: If you actually notice sand particles in the cavity around the lens barrel and the airflow does not help knock them out, consider using tissue paper or a sewing needle to help remove them. Take special care not to scratch the lens barrel with the needle. Also, I do not recommend going too deep around the lens barrel with paper (do not go deeper than 1 cm). I especially do not recommend deep probing around the outermost (largest) part of the lens barrel, as you can knock out the anti-dust pad that sits just inside this gap.

Method 6: Hit the rubber USB cover repeatedly with the intention of knocking out any particles that might be obstructing the lens. It is also possible to tap the camera body with the palm of your hand. Many people report the success of this method. However, there are also some obvious possibilities of damage or displacement of internal components using this method, such as loose cables from connectors, or cracked LCD screens.

Method 6a: This is a variation of Method 6 and is applicable if the lens barrels are straight (not bent by impact). In other words, try this if there is no obvious mechanical damage to the barrels that is causing the problem. With the lens facing down, try to “gently” tap the lens from all sides with a small object such as a pen or pencil. The idea is to try to knock out sand particles that might interfere with the movement of the lens frames. Try turning the camera on and off at the same time while you are doing this.

Method 7a: Note that this correction method is intended only for cameras whose lens extends, then stops, passing part of the way, and then returns to its original position. Try to grab and hold the smallest front lens barrel at its most extended position, preventing the lens from returning. Inspect and clean the area around the lens cups from dust and sand. Turn the camera off and on again. If the lens extends further, grab the front glass again to prevent it from coming back. Repeat cleaning again. Turn the camera off and on again to see if the problem has gone away.

Method 7b: The most extreme fix. Just keep in mind that this is absolutely the last method before discarding your camera, and there is obvious potential for further damage to the camera with this method. You may want to consider this technique if the lens is visibly and clearly damaged, bent, or distorted, such as from dropping. In this case, try thinking of the lens as a dislocated shoulder. Try forcing the lens to straighten and snap back into place. In this case, the pins of the lens cups will be in their guides. Your goal is to try to transplant them by straightening the lens. Listen for a “click” confirming that the pins have jumped into the guides, and immediately stop further efforts at this point. More and more people are reporting the success of this method compared to any other method.

Variations on Method 7b: Gently pull, rotate, and / or twist the lens barrel while pressing the power button. Check the lens for any hint of tilt or unevenness. Again, the goal is to try to straighten or align the barrels if they are bent or kinked. Another option is to look for uneven gaps around the lens barrel and then push down on the side of the lens barrel that has the largest clearance (note that pushing the lens barrel all the way in is not recommended as it may get stuck there). Again, with all of the above, you should listen to the "click", which means the pins of the glasses hit the guide grooves.If you hear this sound, stop immediately and try turning on the camera.

To everyone reading this, hello and best wishes!

The camera of the grandson of the Pentax Optio M10 has a problem. The lens motor started to make a lot of noise when adjusting the zoom. After 10 - 15 switching on and off of the device and restructuring the zoom from minimum to maximum, the lens started not to fold completely when switched off and did not close the shutters. If you slightly help with your hand, the lens closes and the unit turns off normally. However, when the device is turned on, the engine is very noisy, and the lens does not extend without the help of hands. Apparently something is interfering or the gearbox is broken. I disassembled and assembled the device three times, but I still did not understand how the lens was removed, there was no service manual.
I shoveled the entire forum - I found how to assemble the lens, but I did not find how to remove the lens. ;-(

Connoisseurs! Can you please tell me how to remove the lens assembly and disassemble it? If possible with a picture.

Thanks in advance to all who responded.

You helped me a lot.
The picture, however, is small, and it is difficult for an out-of-mind grandfather to figure out where to look for those screws. I see the first, but where are the second and third?

p.s.
M. b. retx Someday they will also help you with good advice in some other matter, as you do to me now, for example, jokers, lawyers.
Don't be surprised then. Every good deed will definitely be noticed. Trust your grandfather.
retx! Be kinder and at least a little smarter.

retx! Old people are touchy, that's a fact.
Everything is forgotten. The world is a colleague!
Good luck to you.
==================

Vikt (or)! Thanks a lot.
In our device, these screws are smeared with something black.
Without your help, they would not have picked out the compound. Once again, many thanks from me and my grandson.

As for the renovation, you are absolutely right. If the gears are broken, then there is no point in fixing the lens. Let's make a TV camera from the device for the Internet.

The diaphragm in modern Canon, Tamron, Tokina, Sigma lenses for Canon is controlled by a stepper motor. The motor and aperture position sensor are connected to the main lens board with a ribbon cable.

The most common reason why the aperture is not controlled in Canon, Tamron, Sigma, Tokina lenses is a malfunction of the aperture block cable.

We examined the cause of the malfunction in detail in the article ⇒ ERR 01 on Canon EOS SLR cameras, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the description and manifestation of the malfunction.

Here we will briefly recall that during operation, microcracks appear on the copper conductive tracks of the loop going from the diaphragm unit to the main board of the lens. As a rule, the train "breaks" in the place of the greatest bend.

Replacing the ribbon cable in the lenses in the photo workshop Remtelevid-service is performed within 1 to 3 working days. The cost of replacing a ribbon cable depends on the complexity of the lens design, you can read the price list for lens repairs here ⇒.

Unlike the electronic method of aperture control in lenses for Canon, in interchangeable lenses for Nikon, Sony, Pentax, the aperture is mechanically controlled using the so-called crown and a special driver (see below - photo # 2). As a consequence, the most common diaphragm failures are mechanical in nature.

In case of falls or other impacts, the retaining washer flies out of the retainers that hold the crown, while the petals do not hold anything, and they simply fly away inside the lens. When working with a zoom, the petals that fall between the tubes are simply grinded.

To eliminate the malfunction, replacement of damaged petals is required.

After assembling the diaphragm, the fixing ring in several places, for reliability, can be fixed with a compound.

Repair of the diaphragm in lenses in our photo workshop is performed by professional masters. You can familiarize yourself with the price list by following the link above or by calling 8 (495) 518 54 93 or 8 919 775 74 55.

In some models of Tamron lenses, during use, the fastening screw of the zoom driver is unscrewed. As a result, the leash is displaced and with a contact group cuts off the encoder loop, see photo # 4.

This malfunction is common with Tamron 17-50 mm lenses and some other models. Often, to restore operability, it is necessary both replacing the lens cableand a contact group.

The reasons for the malfunction of optical image stabilizer cables in lenses, as a rule, are caused by the same reasons as in the aperture cables (see above)

Other optical stabilizer malfunctions are often caused by mechanical damage from dropping the lens or being shaken well.

Dropping the camera with the lens will often damage the bayonet mount. Depending on the degree of damage in the lens, certain trains may be torn off.

Below is shown on the example of repairing a Canon 16–35mm lens, such damage is not uncommon in Canon 18-135mm, 18-200mm, as well as in interchangeable lenses of other models and manufacturers.

Most of the faulty loops in the lenses are perfectly restored by our workshop specialists, some loops, due to the high density and a large number of current-carrying paths, as well as those installed between the movable blocks (for example, a diaphragm or an optical stabilizer) must be replaced with new ones.

We were unable to cover all the malfunctions and causes of occurrence due to their diversity.

Visitors to our website and our clients can always ask a question to our specialists by phone: +7 (495) 518 54 93 or +7 (919) 775 74 55, by email by writing a letter to email -, get advice directly by coming to our Photo Workshop Remtelevid -service, which is within walking distance from the Kitay-Gorod metro station at 6 Maroseyka Street. You can see the directions and a detailed description of how to find us here ⇒.

When using the materials of the article, a link to the site https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3479/ is required.

View - download the general request list for the repair of lenses in the Remtelevid-service photo workshop in Exel format. Download >>>

The article discusses the main malfunctions of the popular poltinik from Canon and the reasons for their occurrence. The terms of the repair in the photo workshop and the estimated cost are given.

Illustrated article reviewing the design of the Tamron SP AF 28-75 mm F / 2.8 XR Di LD Aspherical (IF) Macro lens for Canon. The main malfunctions and their manifestations, the timing and cost of repairs in the Remtelevid-service photo workshop are presented.

The Canon EF 70-210 mm 3.5-4.5 USM telephoto lens is currently discontinued. However, it is in operation by many photographers, and hence its repair may turn out to be a demanded service more >>>

Nikon is a world-famous brand of SLR cameras. Highly qualified specialists of the PHOTOmaster Remtelevid Service will repair Nikon SLR cameras as soon as possible.

Professional camera repair Canon, studio photo equipment manufacturer Canon, choose the type, find out the prices.

The problem is actually quite common with all digital camera models. Usually it is sand or other small particles that get into the lens extension mechanism and autofocus mechanism. Or the camera was dropped with the lens extended.The camera may have been turned on, but the lens was prevented from extending (for example, it was accidentally turned on in the bag). It happens that after extending the lens, the batteries run out and the camera turns off with the extended lens. Believe it or not, one of the causes of lens malfunctions is the use of cases and purses. Sand, dirt, fibers, etc. accumulate at the bottom of the case. These materials like to cling to the camera body due to frictional electrostatic charge (especially when the case is soft and fluffy). After these particles find their way into the lens mechanism and malfunction messages occur. I own a lot of Canon cameras and never use cases for this very reason.

Fortunately, about half of the cameras that suffer from this trouble can be easily fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods require disassembling the camera, although some can cause other damage if overdone and careless. If the camera is still under warranty, before applying any of these, please visit your camera manufacturer's warranty workshop to see if the repair will be covered under warranty, or to determine how much they will charge for paid repairs. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they list an amount that is higher than the value of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods. Here is a video description of each of the troubleshooting methods, followed by a detailed description of them.

Method 2: If the camera's batteries are completely discharged while its lens was still open, the camera may show a lens error or not start correctly when new batteries are installed. Remove the memory card and do not insert it into the camera, then install new batteries. When you turn on the camera without a card, it may come back to life as it causes a reset in some models.Error E30 (for old Canon) means that you have no card installed, so you should turn off the camera, insert the card and turn it on again.

We are now entering the area of potentially dangerous camera rescue methods. There is certainly some risk, so be careful when doing the following:

Method 7a: Note that this correction method is intended only for cameras whose lens extends, then stops, passing part of the way, and then returns to its original position.Try to grab and hold the smallest front lens barrel at its most extended position, preventing the lens from returning. Inspect and clean the area around the lens cups from dust and sand. Turn the camera off and on again. If the lens extends further, grab the front glass again to prevent it from coming back. Repeat cleaning again. Turn the camera off and on again to see if the problem has gone away.

Video (click to play).

Variations on Method 7b: Gently pull, rotate, and / or twist the lens barrel while pressing the power button. Check the lens for any hint of tilt or unevenness. Again, the goal is to try to straighten or align the barrels if they are bent or kinked. Another option is to look for uneven gaps around the lens barrel and then push down on the side of the lens barrel that has the largest clearance (note that pushing the lens barrel all the way in is not recommended as it may get stuck there). Again, with all of the above, you should listen to the "click", which means the pins of the glasses hit the guide grooves. If you hear this sound, stop immediately and try turning on the camera.

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