DIY glass heating repair

In detail: DIY glass heating repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Many drivers are interested in what to do if the heating located on the rear window does not work? This is not just a whim, but a vital necessity, allowing you to always see what is happening from behind.

If, when looking in the rear-view mirror, the driver sees nothing but fog, then the risk of an accident increases many times over. That is why, as soon as you notice that the heating of the rear window electric filaments does not work, you must immediately start fixing it.

This is not a particularly difficult procedure, but in order for everything to go as it should, it is necessary to approach it as responsibly as possible. It is very important to follow the instructions exactly.

Before proceeding to the repair of the heating of the rear window elements, which you will do with your own hands, you need to understand the design of this device. In reality, it does not represent anything complicated.

There are two conductive tires on the sides of the rear window of the vehicle. Heating lines are located between them. Usually a high-resistance material is used to create them. The fact is that for effective operation, each thread must have a resistance in the region of 10 ohms. This is the only way to protect the glass from fogging.

The number of threads in the rear window heating is different for each car. In most cases, it depends on the length of the surface. During repairs, this exclusively affects the difficulty of detecting a break.

To repair the heating of the rear window threads, you will need to study the connection diagram of this device to the automotive electrical network. The main role here is played by the ignition lock. It is through it that the voltage is supplied to the heating system.

Video (click to play).

As soon as you turn on the heater, the current flows to the relay. After that, the contacts are closed, and the leads are connected. As a result, electricity is supplied to the heater without obstacles.

As soon as the current enters the electrical circuit of the glass heater, it begins to feed the filaments, which are connected in parallel to the general system. But that's not all. The fact is that the negative contact of the battery is also connected to the mass of the car. Thanks to this, a constant exchange of current is carried out.

As you already understood from the above material, the heating of each thread of the rear seat works thanks to the ignition key. As soon as it is in the ON position, the entire system is activated.

Many drivers are outraged by such a decision of the designers, but in reality it has its own logic. The fact is that the rear window heater consumes a lot of electricity. Usually this figure ranges from 10 to 25 A.

So that you better understand how much 25 A is - let's make a visual comparison. In order for one car headlight to shine at least 5 A. In fact, one heater is equal to 5 headlights.

To fix something, you first need to diagnose the breakdown. For a number of signs, you can first find out what exactly is the reason for the failure of heating the threads. So an inoperative rear window defogger indicator, when the button is pressed, indicates a faulty fuse.

An illuminated indicator and non-heating heating filaments located on the rear window indicate a malfunction in the relay. In turn, poor contact in the electrical circuit leads to too slow fogging of the glass.

It is with this that you need to start the procedure for restoring the normal operation of heating all the threads of the rear window. First, look at all the lines visually.If nothing is visible, you can use the search techniques that have been developed by other drivers who are facing the same problem:

If at first glance, when examining the rear window, you did not find a break in the heating lines, you should not immediately proceed to more complex methods. To get started, just turn off the heating. In a place where the glass is not heated, a characteristic strip will appear.
Take a voltmeter, activate the rear seat heating. Place one probe on the weight of the machine, wrap the other with foil. At the same time, slowly move along each line until you reach the middle. The standard voltage is 5 V. If it drops below, then you have found the break. A jump to 12V also means a break.
There is another option for using a voltmeter. To do this, connect the plus to the terminal to the corresponding heating contact. The second probe must be moved slowly along the line. Moreover, this must be done on the side where the negative terminal is located. A drop in voltage means that you have found an open circuit.
Ohmmeter. An ordinary pointer device will work best. When you turn on the device, you must select the mega mode. Connect the probes to the heating leads on the rear window. Ordinary cotton wool soaked in distilled water is suitable as a connecting element. Follow the line. The reaction of the arrow will mean that you have found the place of the cliff.

As soon as the breakage point in the heating threads of the glass behind is found, you can proceed to a full-fledged repair.

There are many techniques for repairing threads that are responsible for heating the glass of a car in the back. For example, you can take a regular repair kit for the corresponding part. The advantage of this option is that you do not have to look for additional parts and tools. Everything will be in one package.

Some of the best kits for re-heating damaged rear window heat lines are made by Permatex and Quick Grid. They all have similar components.

The repair kit allows you to restore about 10 centimeters of the damaged thread. Usually there are ready-made lines in the set. All you need to do is install them correctly.

The algorithm itself for repairing the heat lines of the rear window using a repair kit is very simple. You need to replace the damaged thread and apply the compound where the damage was.

At the end of the work, remove the template. The heating must not be turned on for at least a day after you have done everything. Otherwise, all the work will be useless and you will have to redo it again.

The second method of repairing the heating of the rear window heat lines with your own hands is to use a conductive paste. Just apply it to the area where the threads were broken. Wait 24 hours. After that, all functions of the heating lines will be restored.

Of course, the use of a repair kit and thermal paste has its advantages. They are easy to operate, and the result of repairs with these heating filaments made from a special material for the rear window is always high. However, you still need to buy them. And this takes time and money. In some cases, both with the first and with the second, some difficulties are possible.

It is not surprising that domestic and foreign motorists have come up with a whole set of various methods that can help in the shortest possible time with the help of the means at hand to restore the broken lines.

In order to bring to life the first popular method of repairing the heating of the rear window threads, you will need paint and shavings. To get the shavings, you need a copper-brass block and a file. The color of the paint doesn't really matter. However, it is preferable to match the threads.

The shavings and paint are mixed one to one. As a result, you should get some kind of dough from these two elements. In order to make a stencil, ordinary scotch tape will work.

After the stencil is applied to the surface, turn on the heating filaments with a resistance of 10 ohms for the rear window. Only then apply the repairing mixture. As soon as the dough hits the damaged area, a specific hissing sound will be heard.

The main plus of the paint and shavings technique when repairing a heated rear window is that you don't have to wait. As soon as you hear an easily recognizable hiss, you can immediately enter the track without fear of fogging up the rear window.

The second popular method of repairing a heating installed on the rear window has some differences from the first. The mixture also uses shavings, but the paint is replaced with glue. BF-2 is ideal. Its restorative qualities will be more than enough to restore damaged threads.

The third popular method of repairing the heating filaments attached to the rear window is conventional soldering. To do this, you need a flux and zinc chloride. Of course, you can't do without solder either. The vein that you will use during your work must be silver plated. Alternatively, copper can be used.

As you can see, traditional methods allow you to restore even the most serious breaks in the heating lines on the rear window of a car with minimal costs. Unfortunately, unlike ready-made pasta, you have to make the composition yourself. And this takes time and effort.

The heating of the high-resistance threads of the rear window can be repaired by hand. You don't even need to buy a repair kit or paste for this. Enough tools at hand in the form of a bar and paint.

Mon 20 Aug 2012

Category: Do it yourself

It began to get colder on the street and in the morning more and more often the first thing to do is to press the rear window heating button. But the HORROR, you turn on the heating and find that not all the threads are heating. What to do? Replacing glass is not a cheap pleasure, it remains to repair on your own. Generally Recommended Repair Methods

heating threads of the rear window, according to those who have tried, leave much to be desired - the ineffectiveness of inexpensive conductive adhesives, and the high price of proprietary mixtures.

And in the vastness of the network I met an interesting repair technology, the reviews of those who tried it were more than enthusiastic:

Description of technology.

Of the reagents, copper sulfate is needed - better known as copper sulfate (used in plant growing and construction), and sulfuric acid - an electrolyte from a battery is quite suitable. From the tool - a piece of copper (preferably copper - not brass.

Several pieces of copper wire folded into a bunch are quite suitable) of a tube or rod with a diameter of 6-10 mm and a strip of fabric 20-30 mm wide and about half a meter long. At the end of the bar, wind a strip of fabric halfway up its width - you should get something like a brush. Above, you need to put a bandage of thread so that the fabric does not unwind.

Electrolyte preparation - not to be confused with akka electrolyte - it is also not difficult. A couple of teaspoons of copper sulfate are poured into half a glass of water, and stirred until dissolved. Not completely dissolved - not scary, do not pay attention. In the resulting solution, you need to add 0.2-0.3% percent of concentrated sulfuric acid or 0.5-1% electrolyte for the battery - this is about half a teaspoon of electrolyte for these half a glass.

Well, the process itself. Both terminals of the glass are connected to the "mass" (if the glass is installed in the car and at least one heating thread is intact on it, nothing needs to be done), and the "plus" of the battery is connected to the tube with a rag.

We moisten the positive electrode in the solution and start actively and continuously rubbing the thread break for 3-5 minutes. A current passes through the solution, which transfers copper ions from the electrode to the heating filament.With a slight damage to the thread, the gap is completely tightened with copper, with large gaps, the copper-plated areas should be irradiated with an unheated soldering iron and a jumper made of a thin wire should be soldered.

There is no need to limit the current as after a few seconds, the anode is passivated and limits the flow
current. It should not be forgotten that the solution contains sulfuric acid - such a concentration is harmless to the skin, but
on clothes in a week - two holes appear (Therefore, I do not advise carrying out the process without removing the glass, although this is quite possible.

A couple more ways ... ...

- turn on the heating on the fogged glass and in the place of the break the glass quickly sweats with a stain, and the whole thread with the break does not sweat.

- to detect a break in the rear window defroster wire, turn on the ignition and turn on the rear window defroster.
- connect one probe of the voltmeter to the mass of the car, and wrap the second probe with foil and move the foil along the heater conductor.
- Connect the voltmeter probe in the center of each wire of the rear window defogger. If the voltmeter shows a voltage of about 5 V, then the heater conductor is working properly. If the voltmeter shows a voltage of 0 V or 12 V, then there is a break in the heater conductor.

- to locate a break in the heater conductor, connect one probe of the voltmeter to the positive terminal of the heater, and move the second probe along the conductor of the heater from the side of the negative terminal of the heater. The point at which the voltage indicated by the voltmeter will drop from a few volts to zero is where the heater conductor breaks.

- ohmmeter, in kilo mode, or better than mego. One probe clings to one terminal of the heater, the second one to the other terminal of the heater. Take a piece of cotton wool soaked in distilled water and lead it along the strings of the heater, follow the kilo readings, the megohmmeter at the break point, the arrow jerks.
- it is better to use an analog ohmmeter (with an arrow).
- works if there is a break in one place ...

Directly repair threads:

In all the methods listed below, you must first clean the conductive strip from varnish (better - with a bent steel wire, a paper clip) until a metallic sheen appears and degrease.
1st method (conductive paste):

- the broken conductor of the rear window defroster can be restored using conductive paste.
- before starting the repair, turn off the heated rear window and allow time for the glass to cool.
- being careful, clean the heater conductor and rinse it with alcohol.
- use adhesive tape to mark the area to be repaired.
- Apply electrically conductive paste approximately 20 mm from each end of the damaged conductor.
- After drying the electrically conductive paste, the rear window defroster can be used for 24 hours.

It can be dried at a high temperature, then the heating can be used earlier.
2nd method (electrolytic coating):

- from the reagents, copper sulfate is needed - better known as copper sulfate (used in plant growing and
construction), and sulfuric acid - the electrolyte from the battery is quite suitable.

- from the tool - a piece of copper (preferably copper - not brass. Several pieces of copper wire folded into a bunch are quite suitable) of a tube or a wire with a diameter of 6-10 mm and a strip of fabric 20-30 mm wide and about half a meter long.

- at the end of the thread, wind a strip of fabric on half of its width - you should get something like a brush.

Above need to put on a bandage of thread so that the fabric does not unwind.

- preparation of the electrolyte - not to be confused with the electrolyte of the accumulator - is also not difficult. A couple of teaspoons of copper sulphate is poured into half a glass of water, and stirred until dissolved, not completely dissolved - not scary, do not pay attention.

In the obtained p-p it is necessary to add 0.2-0.3% of the percentage of concentrated sulfuric acid or 0.5-1% of the electrolyte for the battery - this is about half a teaspoon of electrolyte for these half a glass.
- the actual process.

Both terminals of the glass are connected to the "ground" (if the glass is installed in the car and at least one heating thread is intact on it - nothing needs to be done), and the "plus" of the battery is connected to the tube with a rag. We moisten the positive electrode in solution and start actively and continuously rubbing the thread break for 3-5 minutes.

A current passes through the solution, which transfers copper ions from the electrode to the heating filament. With a slight damage to the thread, the gap is completely tightened with copper, for large gaps, the copper-bonded areas should be irradiated with an undisturbed soldering iron and soldered from a thin wire.

There is no need to limit the current, because after a few seconds the anode is passivated and limits the flowing current. Do not forget that the solution contains sulfuric acid!

3rd method (paint with shavings):
- take a copper-brass bead (graphite is also suitable) and with a small file began to make a line.
- paint (you can red, to match the color of the threads) is mixed with the stitch, the proportion is about 50/50. You should get a dough mixture.
- heating is turned on and paint is applied to the thread, first making a clip from electrical tape or scotch tape. V
During the process of applying paint, a hiss appeared from the place of contact, then it disappeared, but the thread was hot.
- done. Literally in a minute, the composition freezes.

4th method (magnet and glue):
- prepare very small iron filings, a small magnet (from the speaker) and transparent glue (such as BF-2) or nitrolac.
- attach a magnet from the outside above the break, then sprinkle sawdust on the side of the conductor, gently moving the magnet to achieve electrical contact at the break (this will be noticeable by the heating of the strip - unless, of course, the break is in one place, otherwise you will need a larger number of magnets).
- Apply a drop of glue to the sawdust with a small white brush and let the glue (varnish) dry.
- then remove the magnet and use a blade to remove excess sawdust. You can reapply one more layer of glue (varnish).
- enough for several years.

5th method (special adhesives):
- special adhesives for restoring heating threads, there are also Russian-made
- the reviews are contradictory, some like it, some don't
- instructions for use are attached to the glue
- it is recommended to add a little iodine to the glue. In this case, the glue turns out to be red and matches the color of the rest of the threads.

6th method (soldering):
- Damage sites can be soldered with POS-18 or POSS-4-6 soft low-tin solder using zinc chloride as a flux. If a long section is damaged, it is better to solder a thin copper or silver vein from the wire.

7th method (sawdust and glue):
- Silver sawdust (for example, an alloy cut off with a file from the contact of an unusable power relay) must be poured into the fold of a sheet of paper, and a drop of nitro glue must be added there. Quickly roll up a cylinder 2 ... 3 long and 1 mm in diameter with the tip of a knife and place it on the damaged site. Then - crush to squeeze the sawdust tightly, and remove excess.

To implement this idea, I used the second method - electrolytic coating.
Here was the gap:

it was visible to the naked eye, but just in case, I called this place with a tester ... Then I made a device with which copper ions will be applied:

it is done very simply ... he took 3 copper conductors from a copper wire of 2.5 mm cross-section, soldered them together, put a heat-shrink tube on them, cleaned the copper, wound a rag about 3 cm wide, fastened it all with ties ....

on the other hand, I soldered a plug-in contact so that you can connect this device instead of heating. Then copper sulphate began to play, fortunately, there were old stocks and I took a little acid from the battery with a syringe .... (You can buy copper sulphate in a store where fertilizers are sold)

Then everything was according to the instructions .... put the electrode into the glass, disconnected the positive wire from the glass heating, connected a homemade electrode to it, turned on the ignition and the heating button - thus the "+" appeared on the electrode ...

There is a "-" sign on the heating strips. I just walked around the place where there was a gap and saw how a coating of copper was formed ... I note that this method is most effective for small scratches ... For reliability, I also soldered this place, since after such a copper plating procedure everything is soldered with a bang!
In the end, everything worked out and everything works!

Heating filaments on the rear window of a car may fail after a long service life of the car or due to mechanical damage. As a result, car drivers are faced with a lack of heating of a part of the glass. This causes condensation to form on it with significant temperature changes inside the passenger compartment and outside during the cold season.

Misted glass significantly reduces the visibility of the road surface, which is fraught with an increase in the risk of accidents. This problem, fortunately, can be eliminated by hand using a special glue or paste.

Car rear window heating filament repair

Part of the car's glass stops heating due to a broken thread, which, for example, you can touch with an abrasive, removing the glue from the tint film. Since the heating elements are thin and under certain lighting conditions they are practically invisible. There are several ways to detect a break:

Before you start repairing the heated rear window with your own hands, make sure that the conduction strip is clear of varnish. This must be done very carefully using a paper clip. Degrease the work surface after cleaning.

There are several ways to fix a car window heater:

Conductive paste. To use it, turn off the window heater and allow the glass to cool down. After cleaning the filament, mark the working area, and then apply the paste in a layer of about 2 cm to each of the damaged ends of the heater element. The paste dries within 24 hours, during which it is impossible to use window heating. However, to speed up the process, drying with a building hair dryer is possible.

Adhesive for conducting current is produced by such manufacturers whose products you can find on the market:

Keller... Produces Kontaktol, a kit that contains the smallest particles of silver. Presented as a one-component mixture, low-toxic, hypoallergenic, water-resistant, heat-resistant;
Loctite... Sold in a set with a stencil, applied using the brush included in the set;
Russia... Produces "Kontaktol" agent, which is applied to the surface with a layer of 0.2 mm. Withstands temperatures up to +110 degrees. It has low elasticity and is water resistant.

How does the heated rear window work?
Rear window defroster: how does it work?
Rear window defroster: what is it and what is it for?
Scheme of work
What can be malfunctions
Heated rear window does not turn on
Rear window is slowly sweating
Horizontal misting stripes remain on the rear window
Diagnostics and repair
Ways to find a problem thread
We carry out repairs

Maybe you will be surprised by the topic of today's article, because it is summer outside, and the weather is replete with sunny hot days. But this function is relevant at any time of the year. Let's talk about heated rear window. For those who think that this is absolutely unnecessary in the summer, let's say that you probably don't travel much by car during the rains.

But here's the bad luck, Mr. Murphy comes into play with his notorious "laws of meanness." It is raining outside, and the heating of the glass has stopped working, and the humidity in the cabin is increasing, and the visibility is decreasing. An urgent need to repair the heating of the rear window of the car. The reasons for such unexpected trouble can be a variety of actions, starting with the unprofessionalism of the service workers of the tinting studio, ending with the pranks of the kids in the passenger seat.

Heated car rear window perfectly copes with the problem of fogging and does not dry out the air in the cabin. When it comes to defrosting glass in winter, the advantages are obvious. Car glass gets rid of icing evenly by the time it needs to be pulled out. The air from the heater has just started to warm up, and the rear window is already clean, dry and transparent.

The most effective anti-fogging of car windows is heating. How does the heated rear window work? The windshield is heated by directed warm air currents. The rear window is heated using small heating elements powered by electrical energy. On the inside of the glass itself (from the interior), metal tracks with high resistance are attached in the form of multiple thin ribbons. When electrical energy passes through them, heat is generated. As a result, the glass heats up and the water evaporates. After a few minutes, the glass becomes transparent again.

In order to successfully diagnose malfunctions and repair the heating of the rear window of the car as professionally as possible, it is necessary to study the electrical circuit for connecting the heating elements and understand its working principle.

The image shows a typical wiring diagram for heating a car. Let's take a look at how it works together. Power comes from the "+" terminal of the battery, passes through the ignition switch, fuses and is fed to the heater controller and the power contact of the relay. The battery terminal with a "-" sign is connected to the car body, as well as one of the terminals of the heating device.

When the heater is turned on, the voltage goes to the relay coil, which is triggered, the power contacts are closed and the relay terminals 30 and 87 are interconnected. The current goes to the heater, flowing through the parallel-connected threads, and then through the car body again goes to the minus of the battery.

Basically, car owners do not bother with what and how in this rear window heating device until it fogs up or is covered with an ice crust. Here, with the usual movement, the button for turning on the heating power is pressed, five minutes, ten, fifteen minutes pass, but there is no result: the glass has not become more transparent at all, well, or the review has appeared only in some part. Here, and no measuring instruments are required to understand that the car's rear window heater needs to be repaired.

Please note that the heater turns on only when the key in the ignition is turned to the "ON" position. In other vehicles, the heater is only switched on when the engine is running. This is to avoid premature discharge of the battery. Depending on the car model, the rear window heater can consume from 10 A to 25 A of electric current. To give you an idea, two car headlights consume 10 A.

If the light on the heating button does not light up in the active state, most likely the button itself is faulty or the fuse has blown. If the light is on, but the threads do not heat up, then the reason lies either in the relay or in the connectors for connecting the device to the on-board wiring. If this is the case, then according to the automotive documentation, it is necessary to determine the place where these parts are located and replace the non-working element. It is not always possible to quickly find a place for mounting a relay, but there is one way to check its performance indirectly. We will talk about this a little later.

Sometimes it happens that after the heater is brought into a state of activity, the glass begins to sweat, but very slowly. If the weather is frosty outside, then the reason may lie in insufficient contact of one of the connectors of the electrical circuit. As a result, the contact resistance increases, the current flows with less force, the power decreases, and the filaments warm up more slowly.

To check this malfunction, you need to take a multimeter and measure the voltage at the input terminals of the heater and the battery. The difference in results should not exceed one volt.

And, perhaps, the most common malfunction of the rear window heating system of a car is the breakage of threads attached to the glass itself. This malfunction is visible with unarmed gas, since in the place of the defective element the glass is either fogged up or not thawed (depending on the season).

Tracks carrying current are easily destroyed even with slight mechanical stress. Therefore, you cannot clean the glass with a scraper, only a soft cloth. Also, if you sometimes transport long or bulky goods, then they should not rest against the rear window.

Determining a damaged heater filament is not difficult, as you already understood. So, before you fix the rear window heating, you need to count all the threads from top to bottom and remember which ones are faulty. So it will be easier to find the right thread by visual inspection. But the breaks are sometimes just microscopic. A voltmeter or multimeter will help here. To quickly find the problematic thread, you need to study the rear window heater device.

If visual signs of a break are not observed, for example, if a break happened at the terminals, then you can resort to the good old folk methods. It is remarkable that every motorist, with the slightest effort and expense, is able to find the place where the heater threads are broken.

• Visual diagnostics. If the rear window is fogged up, turn on the heater. At the point where the threads are broken, it begins to sweat almost immediately, when the rest of the damaged element does not warm up.

• Using a voltmeter - the first way. Switch on the ignition and then the heated rear window. Put one probe of the device on the weight of the car, wrap the other with foil and move to the center of the heating thread. The voltage should be no more than 5 V. Where it drops to zero or rises to twelve, there is a break.

• Using a voltmeter - the second way. Attach one probe to the positive terminal of the heating element, and move the other along the thread from the negative terminal side. In a place where the voltage drops to zero, repair of the heated rear window is required.

• With an ohmmeter. Better to take an analog device with an arrow. Turn it into kilo mode. Attach the probes to the opposite terminals of the system. Soak cotton wool in distilled water and slowly run it along the thread. In the place where the arrow of the device twitches, and there is a break.

That's it, the diagnostics have been carried out. Now, inspired by your successes, you can take on the repair of the rear window heating with your own hands.

There are many options for fixing a rear window defroster. The same can be said for the materials used and the techniques used. In any case, you are free to choose the method of carrying out the repair work. It is necessary to remember only one thing, in any case, the connecting points of the heating system must always be cleaned and degreased if soldering is required.

1. How to fix a heated rear window using a repair kit? Many car rear defogger repair kits have similar specifications. With their help, it is possible to restore up to ten centimeters of a damaged heating filament. The repair kit includes: templates with threads and a thermally active polymer resin cylinder.

Locate the thread breakage and turn off the heater. Remove the protective film from the template and attach the thread to the torn area. Use a brush to apply resin to the repair area. When dry, repeat a few more times. Remove the stencil from the glass and do not run heating for 24 hours.

2. How to repair a rear window defroster with conductive paste? It is applied to where the threads are broken.At the same time, grab the dangling ends on both sides, 2 cm each. The paste should dry for 24 hours. You can use a building hairdryer and speed up the drying process.

3. Restoration of rear window heating tracks using folk methods. In principle, they themselves do not differ from each other, only there is a difference in the materials used.

• Paint and shavings. The shavings are extracted using a file and a copper-brass block. It is better to take the paint to match the color of the heating filaments. Mix the ingredients in a 1: 1 ratio until soft dough. Make a stencil using duct tape or duct tape. Turn on the heating and apply the mixture according to the stencil. You will hear about the presence of contact at the place of repair by a characteristic slight hiss. Everything is ready. You can go right away and not wait a day.

• Glue and shavings. Here, instead of paint, BF-2 glue is used, as an option.

• Soldering the break. Here you need to use zinc chloride. Solder should be taken with a low tin content, such as POS-18, POSS-4-6. If a long section of the heating wire is damaged, a silver or copper wire can be used.

Now you should have enough options for how to restore the car's rear window defroster yourself. As you already understood, this will not cause much difficulty, and you do not need to spend a lot on materials.

Most modern cars are equipped with heated front and rear windows, which helps to cope with icing, improves visibility and has a positive effect on the safety of vehicle operation in the cold season. It is not uncommon for such heating systems to break down, which you can fix yourself, without contacting specialized workshops.

We diagnose a breakdown

There can be many reasons for the failure of glass heating. This is an open circuit, oxidation of contacts, mechanical damage, improper glass tinting and much more.

The car owner will need to inspect the glass for breakage of the terminals of conductive threads, oxidation of contacts and other mechanical damage. In the event that it is not possible to visually determine the location of the break, then it is necessary to use special devices, including voltmeters and ohmmeters.

When using a voltmeter, it is necessary to turn on the glass heating with the ignition off of the car, after which, wrapping the voltmeter probe with foil, carefully move it along the heating thread, constantly monitoring the voltage, which should be within 5 Volts. In the section where the voltage rises to 12 volts or vice versa drops to zero, the circuit will be broken.

We independently repair the car glass heating system

In each specific case, the technology for repairing the car's glass heating system will differ. So, if possible, we recommend that you use special sets for heating filaments. The use of such repair kits makes it possible to significantly simplify the restoration of the heating operation, so every car owner can handle this work. The use of high-quality repair kits will allow you to restore the working capacity of the thread even in case of their significant mechanical damage.

The repair kit includes a tube with a thermoactive polymer resin and special heating threads that allow you to easily restore existing mechanical damage. You just need to determine the place of the break, then remove the protective film from the stencil in the repair kit and glue the thread to the break. Next, apply a thermoactive polymer resin compound to the glued stencil with a soft brush. After the polymer resin has completely dried, this procedure should be repeated several times.

You can also use conductive paste to restore the rear window heating. The heated paste is applied to the open circuit section, allowing the conductive filament to work again.When applying conductive paste, grab approximately 20 millimeters from both ends of the broken thread to ensure complete restoration of glass heating. It usually takes about a day for such a conductive paste to dry.

We use folk methods of heating repair

There are quite simple, and at the same time effective ways to repair the glass heating system using folk methods. Thanks to the use of the simplest tools, glue and conductive paste, you can easily restore the heating operation, which will save you the need to purchase repair kits or contact specialized workshops where they offer glass repair and heating services.

• We use shavings and paint. To get the necessary conductive shavings, you need a copper-brass bar, which is filed and the resulting powder is used. We recommend using the paint in the color of the heating threads. Mix the paint with fine shavings in a one-to-one ratio to obtain a dough-like compound that will allow the heating system to work again. The stencil can be made from scotch tape or electrical tape. A dough-like mixture is applied using a self-made stencil, after which they wait until it hardens completely.

• Instead of paint with copper-brass conductive chips, you can use BF glue. The repair technology in this case will be similar to the method described above. In the event that the thread breakage section exceeds several centimeters for greater reliability, we can recommend using a thin conductive core.

• Carefully solder the gap. When brazing, use zinc chloride as a flux. Soldering is performed according to a self-made stencil made of scotch tape or electrical tape.

As you can see, repairing the glass heating system on a car does not present any particular difficulty, so every car owner will be able to do this work on his own, without contacting professional craftsmen at the service station.

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